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  1. Can anyone suggest a source for a 1:144 pilot (standing) and deck crew figures? Needed for Korean War Sea Fury carrier deck diorama. My searches have proved fruitless so far. TIA
  2. Hello Fellow Modelers! Here is a build I did some times ago, which gave me a lot of work as the kit is completely wrong from nose to tail: The F-82 G from Special Hobby. This kit was supposed to be a better rendition of the old Monogram kit but it failed in almost all aspects: the biggest mistake is the shape and the height of the tail, which is not so easy to correct. What I did to have a more or less accurate model is too long to be listed here but, among them length of the radar pod (too short), the cockpit re-done entirely, the length of the inner trailing edge, propellers size, stabilizer size, radiator intakes etc... To add some fun I decided to open the gun bay and show the little radar scan. The final verdict is when the plane seats on its four wheels! Painting the model was also a challenge, I adopted various shade of very dark blue/black mix and tried to weather some parts of the wing/fusleage. I decided to go for a machine used during the Korean War (4th F(AW)S, 347th FG) to go away from the very well known ANG scheme full of stars on a light blue background. The SH decal sheet is crap as well, the red color of the markings is not correct, so I bough one from Print Scale (72-067) which was not better in term of accuracy and quality. So I did my own. Here is the result: The true F-82G: Mine: And, I usual, a little dio: As a conclusion, if you look for a nice Twin Mustang (which is an odd aircraft!) at that scale, I will definitively not recommend the SH kit. Hope you will enjoy, critics welcomed!
  3. Hello Everybody! I showed you in a previous post a Tamiya F-84G I have saved from my bin after a moment of rage... So here is his brother, same fabricant, with a lot of aftermarket inside to make this kit more accurate and attractive. Markings reflect the colorful, well known and well documented FS-454, the 58th FBW CO bird. I used the Aeromaster decals sheet 72-170 "Thunderjets over Korea" rather than the Kit decals which I found too thick. However, I struggled with the Aeromaster product which has some inconsistencies and was not so easy to apply. I didn't put too much weathering, as it is the Boss Bird! Here is the result: And the little dio: The tractor comes from aftermarket with a lot of enhancements, the ladder is scratch built: And to finish, a family photo: Thank you for watching!
  4. Hello! Today's kit has an history as it is a survivor of my trash bin: I started to build the Tamiya excellent F-84G but, to improve a little bit it, I had the silly idea to adapt an old French resin aftermarket product (for the Heller kit). The result was disastrous and catastrophic, as it didn't fit at all and as a result, I finally broke in two parts the fuselage. Rage rage rage! I threw the whole stuff in the bin but, after calming down, considering the price and not wanting to invest in another one (shipping cost is a killer) I decided to rebuild it. I just dropped the flaps and ailerons, add a vacform canopy and enhanced the wheel wells. Painting was done using various shades of ALCLAD II. I faced another problem with the Aeromaster sheet CH 72-02, the decals have badly reacted to the decal set softener. So I finally painted the fin yellow and added black stripes. Curiously I didn't find any photos of FS-460 even is Osprey Frontline Color 3 so I can't tell about the accuracy of the Aeromaster sheet. By looking to pictures of aircraft of the 49th FBG, I didn't find any evidence of aircraft wearing stripes on the horizontal stabilizers so I didn't put them, as indicated in the Aeromaster instructions. If anybody has some photos of FS-460, I will be very happy to see them to enhance my kit! Photos: ...and, as usual, the little diorama: That's it! Thank you for looking, critics most welcomed!
  5. Hi This topic has already been explored in 2010 in this forum, but I am afraid the answer was not clear-cut. So, what was the colour for Centurions Mk.3 during the korean war, SCC or rather Deep Bronze Green ? There are some colour pictures of Centurions in the IWM collections ("The service of Sydney Sherriff in the Royal Armoured Corps in Korea") showing a rather deep green. Deep Bronze Green ? I am not a british colours specialist, but I am sure you can help.
  6. About 20 years in the making (only somewhat literally), here is my first effort at the Academy kit of the B-29. Although a nice enough kit, some of the fit wasn't great. It is also a big model! I had to modify my display cabinet to get it to fit, and it also takes a lot of nose weight. Finished as Top Of The Mark, I wanted to model a Korean War B-29 after the introduction of black undersurfaces. Unfortunately, although I found a few different pictures of this particular plane they were all of the nose art area, so I had to make a best guess at the rest of the scheme. Some B-29s had the black go all the way up the rear fuselage and include the fin, but I found a photo of 28BS B-29s that showed just the lower half in black, so I went with that. This plane went through a few iterations of markings, from nude to covered nose art, then the black undersides, the latter with or without red stencilling on the nose gear doors. I used the Aeromaster sheet 72-129 from the 1990's, which had survived well but had an incorrect serial number, 44-61562, which actually belonged to Never Hoppen. Thanks to this helpful website, I discovered the correct serial number was 44-69763, and indeed one of the photos I used for reference showed the last three of this on the nose gear door. I raided my unstarted Korean War boxing for most of the decals, as they crucially include the red USAF text for the wing underside which I found to be otherwise extremely difficult to source! The Aeromaster sheet only offers the all-over natural metal with bikini-clad girl version, and no national insignia at all (a separate sheet was released for this, but only with black stencilling). I used various shades of Alclad to replicate the different tones visible in photos as best I could. Anyway, here are some pics. Due to the large size of the subject, it was hard to get the photos in focus! Thanks for looking. Mike
  7. First the timid and patented T.E. Bell irrelevant qualifier: In the very unlikely event someone followed my posts, they'd know I have this compulsion to explain how after quitting all social media acfew years ago, I just recently chose to allow myself this one British modelling site and one in the US (LSP). I could write an essay on British tradition for tolerance of arcane hobby passions and the support you gents give so freely to your fellow kodellers. I could make my case that American model forums are competitive and troll-infested. But I won't. At least, not now. Just know you are a kind lot and I will never return to US based model sites. And no, I've never personally suffered at their hands. Just seen too many other kodellers told discouraging things on the order of, "What dumb question, newby." There now, to the point: Much to my surprised delight, I just returned to a rare double build 10 years abandoned. Two F-84G kits, 1/48, Revell and Tamiya. Always loved the straight wing versions of the type (F-84F is swept and only shares the ttpe designation for some long forgotten political or funding reason. The Thunderjet was afflicted with every problem built into the first generation fighters, from a drag infested airframe design to the often fatally slow throttle response time of early jet engines. So I don't know why I love it. Anyway, I have AM decal markings and masks for coporful F-84E's in Korea. But the kits are G's. The differences are. minimal, but the only one I know for sure is that I will have to fill an engine bypass door, about a hal-inch square, and molded open. Simple. My plea to y'all (sorry. I'm from Texas.) is, were there other differences I need to address? Early E marks had a bubble canopy, though thesd failed catastrophically so often the had to be retrofitted with the heavily framed canopy of the F-84G. I have that mod covered as well. Any ideas, my learned Brit blood brothers?
  8. Model number 3 - firstly - loved this model!! - detail and general build of this kit is excellent - highly recommended! With my list of modelling tools steadily building and my confidence growing i was excited to build this kit - first time using the pre-painted and etched detailing kits from Eduard, bit of a learning curve but 10x better that the supplied decals - i do recall having an issue with the yellow wing/tail tips - the vallejo paint just didn't go on well, it seemed to be quite translucent so i ended up brushing on some spare acrylic so you can see its quite thick! if anyone could recommend a good yellow airbrush paint i'd appreciate it. - again went for a weathered look - mixed my own panel liner for this one, worked rather well - let me know what you think.
  9. This is my second Spad build. The first was a Navy Spad circa 1964 in grey and white. The HVAR rockets are from Eduard's brasin range. I had to buy two boxes which left me with 4 spare rockets. A bit cheesed off about the PE shipped with them as they only provide enough brass to do 6 of the 8 rockets in each box which is irritating to say the least. Guns are from that lo that do the brass guns whose name I clearly cant remember or be bothered to dig out and the pilot is PJ Productions. The prop is the new Barracuda prop and its stunning - got mine from the states and got stung by customs and excise on import duty - the swines. Everything else is out of the box. Paint is the new MRP rage which is stunning. Anyway here it is. Now full time on the Wokka. The build for both are on the ARRSE modelling thread
  10. Hello! This is my post Korean F-86F from Hasegawa. Very nice kit, no issues at all. Since the decals were quite old and “yellowed”, I got a new set from Aeromaster. Metallic paint were automotive types and the rest from Gunze acrylics. Hope you enjoy! Cheers!
  11. I want to model Top of the Mark as she was when painted black on the undersides. Unfortunately I can't find any photos showing this aircraft other than close-ups of the nose art. Can anyone help with this? If not a photo of this particular aircraft, any photos of other 19BG, 28BS B-29s in the black scheme showing the tail? If I can't get the specific aircraft I could at least base the scheme on other planes in the squadron... The biggest thing at this point would be whether the tail fin is also in black or not. Any help much appreciated! Mike
  12. Hi Folks. I want introduce just finished model MiG-15bis 1\48 from TAMIYA. This model was build under impression from book about Korean War "Soviet aces in Korean war". Soviet pilot: Mihin M. I. ,may 1953 ,airfild Myaogou ,North Korea.
  13. Trumpeter’s little rendition looks to be a quick build. The 1/144 model is covered in engraved detail – all of it a little heavy, but it should look ok under paint. Trumpeter’s F-86 goes together well except for the fit of the windscreen – which is terrible! However, with some miniscule shimming, trimming, and polishing it is still useable. I’ll have to trim it yet more to get the sliding portion to fit properly against it... Trumpeter’s F-86 kit interior is actually surprisingly nice with a stick, seat, and instrument panel. Unfortunately, the ADF antenna that sits behind the cockpit is attached to the fuselage; on the real aircraft this is part of the canopy assembly, so it pretty much forces the modeler to do the kit with the canopy closed unless you want to do some scratchbuilding. Trumpeter also omitted the cockpit side consoles. I decided to go conservative on this one and just leave it closed up! The Sabre is a simple paint job: bare metal silver overall, for which I used Tamiya Bare-Metal Silver (AS-12) rattle-can spray. The only variations were the panels around the gun openings, which I masked off and sprayed with darker Model Master Stainless Steel Buffing Metalizer spray. Maybe I should have been a little bolder – the bare metal looks good, but with the masks removed the contrast between the two shades is barely noticeable! One of the better aspects of Trumpeter’s F-86F is the extensive markings sheet provided. As always, Trumpeter’s decals performed flawlessly! The one reservation I had about them was the color of the yellow bands. Though reasonable, they seem more lemon-yellow than the orange-yellow seen in most contemporary photographs. Still, I found a few pics that appear to show a yellower shade, so who knows... perhaps there was some variation? Anyway, I thought Trumpeter’s bands matched these pretty well. Speed brakes. I appreciate how Trumpeter provided pre-cut national markings with perfect fit to the fuselage and brakes.
  14. An older build that finally made it out to the airport. This is the 1/48 Monogram Panther, painted with ModelMaster gloss dark blue. I would’ve liked to take more pics but I was afraid the gusty wind might take her airborne any minute. 😉 (there's that wind again!😁) This kit has a lot of nice detail, especially the cockpit. The framing on the windscreen was way too big so I sanded it all off and masked it with tape to get the more correct size frame. I read about the canopy frame issue in FSM years ago. I was really hesitant to sand them off but I jumped in and gave it a try. Believe me, I was worried that it would never look right again. But my ol’ dad used to say, “Even a blind hog finds an acorn now and then.” And I did find that acorn! Whew, a lot of polishing saved the day! It’s been a long time since the kit was built, but I don’t recall any particular fit issues. I approached the canopy frame issue with great trepidation, but it turned out okay. As I said earlier, the cockpit has some nice detail and features, but one does find that in many Monogram kits of this vintage. I am going to replace the cannon barrels with hypodermic tubing as one of the kit barrels has fallen back into the fuselage since these pics were made. 🤦‍♂️ The metal parts will look better anyway. The decals are a mix of aftermarket and kit markings. Please excuse the crooked canopy in one of the overhead shots. I left it unattached so I could pose it either opened or closed and I didn’t notice that it was askew before I took the pic. Thanks for checking out my old Panther and thanks for the likes and comments!😀
  15. Both of these aircraft came in the same kit, first issued in the mid-1970s I believe and reissued in 1987. That was the version that I bought, circa 1988-89. It stayed in the stash for several years until the Sabre was built. Then, a few years later, I finished the MiG-15. The kit’s age shows when compared to more “modern” versions of either aircraft but finished, they each are a fair representation of their real-life counterparts. I think I build “four-footers” in that they don’t look too bad when viewed from that distance (1.5 meters? :)). So, ready for your inspection are two more four-footers! As designers will tell you, if it looks right, it is right. Well, the North American F-86 Sabre just really looks right. Really right. With its sleek swept wings, the Sabre was an elegant warplane. North American had started the XP-86 project in 1945 and when German data (and engineers) became available post-war, the design adopted swept wings, settling on 35 degrees. The first production P-86A flew on May 18, 1948, several months after the MiG-15, its classic rival and adversary in countless dogfights in “MiG Alley” during the Korean War. In addition to its pleasing aesthetics, the Sabre is one of the most-produced warplanes, with 9,502 built by North American as well as licensed versions built in Japan, Canada, Italy and Australia. My plane bears the markings of Capt. Charles McSwain. His plane was “Mike’s Bird”, an F-86F-30 of the 39th FIS/ 51st FIW, Korea, summer of 1953. I finished this model in SnJ aluminum with some panels polished with the SnJ aluminum powder to various degrees. The decals are Microscale Decal no. 48-198. Here, she’s seen at the Cameron Airport, “just a’ gleamin’ in the sun” (with apologies to B. Springsteen ;)). The great rival of the Sabre, the Mikoyan-Gurevich MiG-15 is finished in Floquil Old Silver, with some panels done in other shades of silver or polishing to various degrees. It carries the markings of Russian Capt. Pavel Milauszkin. Flying for the North Koreans in 1952, Capt. Milauszkin was credited with 10 kills. The decals are the AeroMaster set, Korean War MiG Aces, no. 48-230. It’s pretty much OOB but the cannon barrels are hypodermic tubing from the vet supplies at the farm and ranch store. Of course, you’ll recognize the locale, it’s just so damned convenient at about 4 minutes from our house. ps. Sorry ‘bout the out of focus front shot! I guess it’s conceivable that these two aircraft might’ve encountered one another in the frigid, blue skies high over Korea. It’s intriguing to ponder that at any rate. 😀 They were beautiful but deadly opponents and together they made aviation history. Thank you for your interest, and as always, thanks for having a look. Gary Monogram North American F-86F Monogram Mikoyan-Gurevich MiG-15
  16. I'd like to show the few pics that I do have of this model. The wind was really gusting the day I took her to the local airport for some pics, and I had to curtail the session early. So, I only have a handful of decent shots. I was glad that I didn’t knock-off either drop tank. I have disengaged them a couple times just moving the model around the display cabinet! 😉 In the very first issue of FineScaleModeller magazine that I ever bought (Jan. ’89), there was an article by the great Bob Steinbrun on converting this old kit into one of the P-80s that were sent to Europe in the waning days of World War Two. Bob did an incredible job on his YP-80 and it sort of inspired me several years later when I built this Korean War-era bird. His bird was finished in grey auto lacquer and really was breathtaking to see. This kit went together well as I recall. Pretty typical of the "good" Monogram models, lot's of detail, very accurate shape and the need for a bit of old-fashioned modeling skill to wrestle it into shape. I recall that the joint between fore and aft fuselage sections needed some work. The model was painted with SnJ aluminum. It came with aluminum polishing powder and the shiniest sections were polished with that powder. I masked some areas to be left unpolished, and some with another shade ( polished without the powder) of the SnJ and some might’ve even been painted with another variety of metal paint. It has been a long time since I built (20 years?) her so some details have probably been forgotten by now. But the now long-gone SnJ was the primary paint used. It was my favorite for NMF by far! I tried to replicate what Mr. Steinbrun did around the gun bay and added a few flourishes, ie. replaced the kit exhaust pipe with a section of ballpoint pen and a few added bits and pieces. Thanks for your interest, and for stopping in to have a look! 😀 So, here’s the “Salty Dog” at the Cameron Airport.
  17. Italeri F4U-4B, VMA-332 Polkadots, USS Point Cruz (CVE-119), 1953. Better photos will be tomorrow. WIP here: Rockets will be added later (or won't be, don't now yet). Brothers in arms
  18. Kit - Tamiya 1:48 Paint - All acrylics Decals - H-Models 48-005 Extras - Eduard cockpit set, Master turned brass gun barrels, pitot etc. MiG 15 bis Assigned to Maj. Mikhail Mikhin 518th IAP, Tatung-kao, DPRK Summer 1953 Built for [another] sites' Group Build, second time I've built this kit and second time it didn't let me down. Superb engineering as ever by Tamiya, and my favourite of their first tranche of 1:48 aircraft kits. First time using H Model decals and although a little brittle, they react well with good ol' MicroSol & Set. Not to much else to say except that this was my first serious attempt at 'marbling' the finish (underside only) and it seems to have come-out OK. As ever thanks for taking the time to look and / or comment. Please feel free to make any comment, ask a question or hurl abuse. Happy Christmas everyone. Ian.
  19. None of these I'm sure will be new to @Sabrejet, but I have been trolling for Korean War Sabre photos, and thought I would share them with you. I will add them as I find them. I hope you enjoy them and that they are new to you. The photo of Shernador II is not a period photo, as I just now noticed it has been painted with silver paint and there is what looks like a Buccaneer next to it, so I'm guessing is a preserved example- my mistake, but I got sooo excited when I saw a 2 Sq. Springbok Sabre photo! Mike https://i.pinimg.com/originals/2a/4b/88/2a4b88726e4f8d8be64c0236a0082830.jpg https://i.pinimg.com/originals/c1/59/44/c159440fc89f846210bcd78ed878d770.jpg https://i.pinimg.com/originals/82/8e/06/828e064ffa44c67ff579e83bc60a26ce.jpg http://www.flickr.com/photos/my_public_domain_photos/5413515820/
  20. Do any of BM's Maritime Massive have any details on the AA gun fit for HMS Glory or Ocean during the Korean War? From study of not-so-close-up photos, I know that each had an extensive collection of single 40mm Bofors, but I also think I see twin pom poms still fitted? Does anyone have any close-ups to share, please?
  21. The Airfix F86F - 1/72nd. scale The wing tanks were moved in 5mm and wing fences 7mm. Options for the air brakes are provided with short (retracted) hinges for closed brakes or with extended hinges for the brakes open. Although, I think, brakes in the open position would not have had the correct amount of droop. Painting: Brush painted with Humbrol acrylics, even Humbrol 11 silver for the NMF. Decals: I think the dragon decal should have been provided for both sides. The broad yellow fuselage band extends under the fuselage. The decal for the part below the fuselage was too narrow so was cut so the black outer lines would match up and the gap left was filled in with yellow paint. Lots of decals for stencil data - a lot of time to apply. Question: The box art for the kit shows tanks being jettisoned with the pylons attached - is this correct ?
  22. Hi All Does anyone know where I can get some 1/48 US Marine figures suitable for a Korean War diorama? I don't want pilots or groundcrew I am after some marines in action poses, running, shooting etc. Regards Mick
  23. This is my Korean War diorama that I did for a competition. There was a bit of confusion and I was told that it wasn't needed because someone else had done one, however I was then told that they could of really done with having my diorama. So judge it all you want as I'd like to see how I would of got on Apologise for the bad camera
  24. Just finished this morning for the Korean War ‘Campaign’ (Group Build) over at Modellers Alliance, my other modelling ‘home’. This is the Dragon M46 that I bought when it was a ‘new’ release way back in 1995 !!. Only now did I attempt it as up until this point, I truthfully didn’t believe that my limited skills were up to the task, to be brutally honest, I’m still not certain. Well if it wasn’t for the fact that the (Italeri) tracks that I used to save time are two links too small I’d be 100% delighted with the build, however now that I need to go-back and fit a couple of links from the kit anyways, I can only claim 99.2% satisfaction…. Never mind, that issue is easily overcome. So TWENTY YEARS this has been in the stash awaiting my skills to match my expectation. Please be VERY honest with your opinions and comments, folks. Looking forward to hearing what you guys think. Ian.
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