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Found 151 results

  1. as if I would not have to do enough elsewhere... but where else should I build one of these? not sure yet on the Squadron, but a grey one I'd like! maybe 3/75 Sdqu at Butterworth to even better fit to the Asian frontline topic? and I'd probably load t for some attack mission using the Kinetic RPK-10 with 2 Snakeeyes each? a 1300l tank on the center (from an AMk Kfir should do well I guess!) and Eduard Magic Missiles on canted Mirage IIIO 3 /75 Squadron, RAAF Butterworth, Malaysia that is what I have found in my stock that could be useful ? what puzzles me a bit is the ejection seat... acording to the above brilliant book , an MK6 should be fitted from 1981 instead of an Mk4.... left Mk4 from SBS, mid Mk4 from Pavla, right Mk4 from HPM they are not all that similar and specific I think.... who can help me out? as I understand it, the MK6 introduced a zero zero capability adding a rocket motor.... and double hand rails in addition to some additional part on the rear rail.... interesting accident story by the way: http://www.3squadron.org.au/subpages/Last_Sacrifice.htm RAAF serials: http://www.adf-serials.com.au/3a3.htm
  2. It was a strong rumour, now confirmed by R. Chung, the Kinetic boss himself, in ARC forums. After the Sea Harrier FRS.1 (http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234990951-sea-harrier-frs1-148/) & FA.2 (http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234968544-sea-harrier-fa2-148/), the two seat Harrier T.2/T.4/T.8 (http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234999966-148-bae-harrier-t2t4t8-by-kinetic-release-in-2016), Kinetic is quite logically to produce 1/48th Hawker Siddeley/BAe Harrier GR.1/GR.3 kits. So time to open a dedicated thread, I think. Source: http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?showtopic=287539&view=findpost&p=2798826 V.P.
  3. All bets are off ! It is rumoured to be a - money maker - unpreviously announced kit. Source: https://www.facebook.com/Kineticmodel/posts/1244366542397121 V.P.
  4. The Kinetic's future 1/48th AMD-BA/Dornier Alpha Jet E first CAD drawing is here: Source: http://s362974870.on...howtopic=255517 V.P.
  5. Scaleworx is currently working on a 1/48th Cheetah E resin conversion set for the Kinetic's Kfir C2/C7 kit (http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234935583-148-iai-kfir-c2c7-by-kinetic-sprues-decals-released/?p=1251802). Scaleworx has in its catalogue similar sets dedicated to the Heller & ESCI/Italeri Mirage III kits - ref. SW48-01 (Cheetah C), SW48-02 (Cheetah D), SW48-03 (Cheetah E), SW48-08 (Cheetah B ) (https://www.facebook.com/scaleworx/photos/a.235132476686101.1073741852.212054182327264/363249607207720/?type=1&theater) In time, the rest of the Scaleworx Cheetah sets will also be modified for the Kinetic kit. Source: https://www.facebook.com/scaleworx/photos/a.235132476686101.1073741852.212054182327264/383498791849468/?type=1&theater V.P.
  6. New boxing for the Kinetic 1/48th F-16A/B NSAWC Adversary - ref. K48004 Block 15 Markings: - NSAWC 04 TOPGUN 90th Anniversary 2009 - NSAWC 60 2006-2009 - NSAWC 53 2004 Decal printed by Cartograf Decal design by FighterTown Decal Model Feature: Training ACMI Pod Related Links Source: http://www.luckymodel.com/scale.aspx?item_no=KI-K48004 V.P.
  7. These groupbuilds are coming thick and fast. Still to complete my entry in the Maritime Patrol GB and yet to start my DC-3/C-47 STGB entry. My plan for this GB is to build Kinetic's 1/48 T-45 Goshawk. I have some aftermarket decals to complete it as an aircraft of VT-22 'Golden Eagles'.
  8. Colin W

    T-45 Goshawk

    Hi Chaps, I really enjoyed the 2 Hawk builds so with my Meteor NF11 nearly complete in the Specialist GB and another 2 weeks before the Lockheed GB I've decided to go for a 3rd entry to this GB. Subject will be the US version T-45. There's only one scheme seen so far so unless I find some pictures of the prototypes then this will be white and red. The kit today. Box crushed in a suitcase last summer between the big H and Bangkok. Colin
  9. Hi Guys, Here is my Kinetic NF-5A, a nice kit but it requires some tlc! And some extra work is required to make it more like a real NF-5A, since the NF differed a bit from the the standard F-5. The LEF's needed an extra "edge" at the widest part, the ECM knobs on the tail differed in height on each side(and are of a different shape), and the cockpit IP needed a so called "Roller map", a system attached to a Doppler radar which consisted of a paper map, and a couple of other small details were added. I chose to give it the so called "zebra" scheme which some of the NF-5's received in the middle eighties. Always liked this scheme so I needed a model of it! The tanks under the wings are in the initial camouflages colors and the centerline tank is in the definitive grey scheme. Decals are from Dutch Decal, seat is from Wolfpack and the wheels are from RESkit. Erik
  10. We have just taken delivery of a selection of Kinetic kits with more due soon. Check out the selection here! https://www.wonderlandmodels.com/brands/kinetic/
  11. Detail set for Kinetic Su-33 Flanker-D in 1/48. Made of steel with a thickness of 0.05 mm.
  12. The Kinetic Harrier is at long last complete. Kit has been fighting all the way, with fiddly assembly and confusing instructions, a good documentation is needed to avoid the version mix. Decals, however are a dream. But in the end it's a Harrier and certainly a gain over the old Airfix kit. Painted with Gunze acrylics, (H333 extra dark sea grey), been adding the Neomega cockpit, initially intended for the old Airfix kit. Complete photo album of the build can be found here : SHAR build photo Hope you'll like her. Best, Stef (#6)
  13. Hallo again This here is my third Kfir in 1/48. For cutting extra fine resin parts I use the US-cutter. So I can get out every resin part. For sawing I use japaneses saws, which reduce the volume of chips to 20% of the 100% to normal saws, you are used to have or we comonly buy. The first was an Italeri with a conversation set from Isracast several years ago. The second you may see on the forum, was from ANK. This third one is from Kinetic with resin parts from Wingman (cockpit) and Aires (exhaust, scoops and antennas and pitot). The plastic is very different to AMK. In every sense. I do not want to judge it. But I can tell, that the main fuselage is more accurate, as in the AMK. The lever mechanism for the two small wheelbay doors is also there. This was a missing part on AMK. The installation for the main gear strut is also better. We can see the finished a/c and then you may decide it. The resin cockpit including front wheelbay is accurate. The really sad point is, that the left side console aft the throttle is a worse molding! I painted all the cockpit tube by airbrush in C308 and C2. All details later on by brush. The air intake I did preassemble, spraying and total gap filling and grinding before any installation in the fuselage. The gap is too big. Cockpit installation is easy and fuselage completion too. But one point to remark: The Aires nozzle needs some surgery inside the support of the nozzle and tube! Now after grinding the assembled a/c I put on some surfacer on the gaps underwing, and on spots, which I filed already with CA. Now I sprayed the glasses and do final painting on the ejection seat. Here it is my intention, to show a nearly clean a/c, just with supersonic tanks on the wings. Maybe I add the launcher for the Python 3. The four airbrakes I will not close entirely just a little bit open. The flaps are in down position. Since I have photos from the a/c I want to build, I will have to pre-shade it according photos. If it works out, you may see both photos. In a few days, I will show you more. Happy modelling
  14. After the single seat variants (thread here: link) next Kinetic Mirage family will be the MIII two seats variants. First announced boxing: 1/48th Dassault Mirage IIID/DS - ref.48054 Other variants should follow like IIIB/BE, 5BD etc. Source: https://www.facebook.com/Kineticmodel/posts/530695333764249 3D renders V.P.
  15. Hello guys, Been working lately on my last model of the year, the Kinetic 1/48 FRS1 Sea Harrier. Been adding the Noemega cockpit resin kit, intended for the old Airfix kit. Iyt requires a bit of surgery to fit but nothing so complicate. You need to retain the kit cockpit back panel, and thin a bit the cockpit sides, and you're done. She'll be in overall dark sea grey, a Falkland war machine. Hope you'll like her .... Best Stef (#6) Clik piccies to enlarge
  16. Pappy

    EA-6B Prowler

    G'day people, I was originally intending on building a Grumman Tracker but as I already have one of those underway, I have chosen to build this instead, Confession time, I had already started this kit before I realised that there was a Grumman GB organised, however I believe that I satisfy the <25% completed criteria as I have mainly been preparing the fuselage for the addition of resin and PE details, I have not decided on a scheme yet, or even a timeframe as the platform has undergone significant upgrades throughout its career. The Kinetic kit provides several options but OOB the instrument panel is for an ICAP III/Block 89, if I you want to do an early scheme and/or backdate to EXCAP/ICAP I or Block 82 you will need to do some research to determine which details to omit or add. The instructions do provide some help but I do not trust them to get it right. I believe that the Italeri kit is basically the same plastic re-boxed but I would be interested to hear if there are anydifferences Anyhoo, roll on the start of the build! cheers, Pappy
  17. Kinetic is to release from 2019 a family of 1/48th AMD-BA Dassault Mirage F-1 kits. Source: https://www.facebook.com/284153468459310/videos/946333875574596/ V.P.
  18. This is the Eduard Top Falcon F-16. As many of you will know it's Kinetic plastic and Eduard resin and etch. I used probably half of the extras because some of the resin bits were more effort in terms of fit. There are a few inaccuracies with the kit, most of which I didn't address.. It's one of those kits you wonder why you started in the first place and I wanted it done! Paint is my own mix as the colour call out was incorrect in my opinion. All in all I'm happy with the way it turned out. Onto the pictures then.. Please note, the canopy is not permanently attached yet. The rear canopy section is crazed as per my reference pics (done by spraying Tamiys Flat Clear XF-86 on the inside). I was going for a patchy, grimey look as is characteristic of these aircraft. Thanks for looking. Questions and constructive comments welcome!
  19. The Kinetic's German partner, Wingman Models (http://wingmanmodels.com/wm/Pulsar/en_US.CMS.display.65./superior-military-aviation-model-kits-accessories), is to rework the chinese new 1/48th Dassault Mirage IIIE/O/R kit (http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234959104-148-kinetic-mirage-iii5/) to propose a Belgian Dassault/SABCA Mirage 5BA & BR in its Superkits range (http://wingmanmodels.com/wm/Pulsar/en_US.Store.display.80./superkits) - ref.WK48014. Source: https://www.facebook.com/wingmanmodels Now what about the two-seat Belgian variant, the Mirage 5BD? V.P.
  20. M3A3 Bradley Cavalry Fighting Vehicle (K61014) 1:35 Kinetic Model The CFV variant of the Bradley is a scout vehicle that carries a crew of five, including two scouts that are able to dismount whilst leaving the vehicle fully crewed and ready to depart if necessary. It also carries additional communications gear, but is externally very similar to the M2 Bradley, with the same Bushmaster cannon and the ability to carry a TOW missile pack on the side of the two-man turret. It was designed in the 1990s as an update to the ageing M113, but ended up supplanting it in US service, and it has been a success in every theatre it has served in, although during the Gulf War a number were destroyed in blue-on-blue incidents that resulted in better recognition systems being employed from there on in. It is well-liked amongst crews, and the upgraded armour packages have improved survivability in a changing battlefield that includes substantial amounts of urban patrols. The A3 is a combination of new-build and converted A2s, and brings a major improvement in the on-board systems that affect the crew's situational awareness, allowing them to work better in concert with other Allied forces, including both the Apache helicopter and Abrams tank, two of the main weapons systems they are likely to be deployed with. In an age where anti-tank missiles have become a major danger to any AFV due to their ability to pitch-up and plunge accurately downward through the thinner top armour, the roof of the Bradley has been upgraded with titanium, and also includes all the previous upgrades to the A1 and A2 variants. The Kit This is an enhanced reboxing of the 2014 Orichi (no, I'd never heard of them either!) kit from Kinetic, and arrives in their usual top-opener box, with a painting of a NATO Euro camouflaged example on the front, with a small badge acknowledging CrossDelta's assistance with the included decals. Inside are seven sprues and two hull parts in grey styrene, plus a single dust-jacket for the top of the gun mantlet in a little ziplok bag. A sheet of Photo-Etch (PE) brass, a tree of poly-caps, decal sheet and the instruction booklet are also in the box, along with a separate painting and markings guide, which is in colour and printed on both sides of a glossy sheet, with profiles provided by AMMO. Detail is good throughout, with lots of surface detail such as anti-slip coatings, vents and fasteners for the appliqué armour, which is followed through with the optional ERA (Explosive Reactive Armour) package parts that are included, and is used on both decal options, but can be left off if you are going off-piste for your markings. Some slide-moulding has been used to improve the detail and simplify construction, especially on the main hull parts, which have the side-skirts and armour upstands moulded-in along with other detail that would once have been impossible to include. It still needs an additional number of rivets applying however, which can be found on the sides of sprue A. Cut these off with a sharp blade, and glue them on where indicated, which is probably best done early in the build process to avoid either forgetting, or knocking off any delicate parts. Construction begins with the lower hull tub, which is festooned with the suspension swing-arms and dampers, final drive, return rollers and finally the road wheels, which have a poly-cap at their heart and have separate tyres that will please anyone that doesn't like painting these in-situ. The idlers and drive sprockets also have poly-cap centres, and once fitted the remains of the final drive housing are added to the lower front along with towing shackles and a pair of small plates. Tracks are fitted early on, and these are of the link-and-length type, supplying all the straight links as a single part, which are joined with a few individual links, a short length on the diagonals, a few more links, and then another length to go over the top. There are a few ejector pins on the inside face of the tracks, but these are raised, so should be pretty easy to deal with in short order. The upper hull fits over the top of the lower hull at this stage, and ledges on small upstands inside the upper that will need careful alignment before the glue sets up, as there is a little "slop" at the rear on my example. The hull is closed up by adding the thick rear door, which has an ovalised smaller entrance in one side, tow shackles and towing cable attached to the outside. The frame fits into the rear and the door glued into that, as there's no interior, and the rear light clusters fit on the stowage boxes either side of the door. The decal options both have the ERA blocks on the sides, glacis and turret, but there is an option to leave these off, which exposes the appliqué armour that is moulded into the upper hull. If you elect to do this, you will need to add a little putty to the shallow sink marks that have occurred where the hull roof and sides meet, and to do this you will need to take care not to remove the detail of the panels. There are some alternative parts for the non-ERA Bradley, which you can use. The ERA blocks for the sides are moulded as a large single part, with front and rear angled sections finishing off the runs, while a mesh cover for the two engine grilles, another behind the turret, pioneer tools, an exhaust director, mudguards, and the mounting brackets for the glacis ERA blocks are all installed. The front blocks are fitted in three sections, and a couple of shot-trap eliminators are added around the turret rim and rear deck, and then the rest of the upper surfaces are detailed with the large crew hatch, more pioneer tools, lights, sensors and so on before the turret is constructed. As this is a no-interior kit, the interior breech is present in a limited form just to enable the barrel to elevate, with poly-caps added to permit the gun to stay put, coaxial machine gun, and barrel sleeve being added before it is sandwiched between the turret halves. The clear commander's vision blocks are inserted from inside the top section, and the turret ring is fitted to the underside, along with the smoke dischargers on the lower cheeks. The ERA blocks are attached to the appliqué armour panels, the various turret-mounted sensors are added, and the commander's protective glass shroud is fitted to keep him safe when he's got his hatch open. The barrel for the Bushmaster 25mm cannon is fluted for cooling, and is nicely slide-moulded on the edge of one of the sprues, with a hollow muzzle and flash-hider slots into the bargain. The bustle stowage has a number of extra ammo boxes for the coax MG arranged around the back, and the big optical sensor box on the top, loader's hatch and the TOW installation (handily attached with a poly-cap) all go on to make the small turret rather busy. The driver's hatch is last to be made up, with a large hinge part with PE vent, clear vision blocks and armoured covers included. The model is completed by installing the turret and driver's hatch on the model. Then it's time for the paint and decals. Markings There are two decal options available in the box, with colour profiles provided by AMMO, and decals printed by Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Apart from the stencils, there are a selection of numbers and letters from A to G to enable the modeller to customise their model. The two options are the NATO three colour green/black/brown scheme, and the more familiar desert scheme, with no information forthcoming regarding their units, location of era of operation. There is also no placement guide for the exterior decals, which is going to need a little research on your part, although some of the decals for the front and port side are visible on the boxart. You can find a copy of the instructions and profiles here, although the product hasn't yet been added to the product listing on the Kinetic website. Conclusion Apart from the slightly rushed feeling for the painting and markings section, this is a nicely detailed kit of the Bradley that should do well for Kinetic. In association with
  21. ROCAF S-2A/E/G Tracker (K48074) 1:48 Kinetic Model via Lucky Model Designed from the start as an Anti-Submarine warfare aircraft, the Tracker was powered by a pair of Wright Cyclone engines, the same type that powered the B-29. It entered service in 1954, and quickly acquired the nickname Stoof, from the S-2F variant. It was eventually replaced by the S-3 Viking in 1976 after a long service career with the US Navy, but continued to serve with other navies long after, with Taiwan being amongst them, using their airframes until the 90s, when Grumman upgraded the engines on most of their fleet to turbo-props, removing the big cylindrical cowlings and replacing them with a streamlined prop that looks really out of place when you first see it. The Kit The original Tracker kits from Kinetic have been with us now since 2011, and this is the first reissue in a while, portraying the Taiwanese Republic of China Air Force (ROCAF) airframes that were used until they were turbo-propped. It is also the first boxing to encompass the A, E & G models by adding additional fuselage, elevator, nacelle and outer wing panels that were originally included in the S-2A boxing into the E/G boxing to give a wider range of options. The A fuselage is shorter than the others, and as such a small portion of the weapons bay is removed to accommodate this lack of length. The A wings were more squared off, and have wingtip lights included, while the engine nacelles are broken down differently and have a completely different panel line arrangement for the A, with much shorter elevators. A simple cockpit is included, with the two crew seats as single parts, but with a nice instrument panel, that has a large central screen and plenty of raised detail. The seats are a little basic, but little will be seen once the fuselage is closed up, although the open access door on the rear bulkhead might need a cover, or perhaps a curtain making, to avoid a view into the empty rear fuselage. A few holes will need opening up before your choice of fuselage is closed, with the ventral radome and bomb bay shell trapped between the two halves, the latter needing shortening if you elect to build an A. Curiously, there is an open crew hatch on the starboard side, although there is no interior within - some scratch building will be required if you want to leave this open. The cockpit windows are part of a larger insert that encompasses the top section of the fuselage above the compartment, avoiding the trap of installing fiddly individual glazing parts. This assembly is split into two halves, with the seam running down the middle along a frame-line. An overhead console piece gives the joint strength, although the part is oddly still devoid of any switch detail all these years later. The inner wings have two large tabs that give it a strong attachment to the fuselage, ensuring that the correct angle is obtained. Onto these parts, the correct engine nacelles for your version are built up and attached to the wings once completed. It might be wise to assemble them in-situ instead, to avoid any complications with incorrect angles of the parts, and to ensure a good seam with as little sanding/filling results. Only the front row of pistons are depicted inside the cowling, with a spacer taking up the slack behind. The purists would probably obtain some aftermarket Cyclones here, but with a little careful painting and some ignition harness detail added, it should be adequate for most modellers. The long outer wing panels can be depicted open or folded, and have separate leading edge slat parts, with the aforementioned shorter wingtips of the A. To build the wings open, a pair of short plugs fill the gap, but I'd again be inclined to attach the parts earlier in the build than the instructions suggest, to ensure that the mating surfaces are joined accurately, and the wings end up straight. The folded option requires a detail insert installing, and the outer panels are then held in place by two pre-formed hinges that hold each wing at the correct angle to the airframe. The tail is fixed, and there is no option for posing the flying surfaces at an angle, other than getting out your razor saw. The large bomb bay can only be modelled as open from the box, and an alternative closed bay isn't shown in the instructions. That's a shame, but as a pair of torpedoes are included to busy up the otherwise blank bay, it's not the end of the world. The gear bays are nicely detailed, and have a good level of detail in them, although the super-detailer could of course go mad with the scratch-building materials here. Landing gear struts are made up from a number of parts, and should prove sturdy enough for most of us, while the wheels have separate hubs to please those that don't like painting wheels. There is no weighting to the tyres, but that is easily remedied with a few strokes of a sanding stick. A trio of rocket launcher tubes is included for under each wing, and a slipper-style radome affixes to the starboard wing to add a little visual interest. The large paddle like props with their square cut tips are well depicted, with a light panel line where the protecting strip appears on each blade's leading edge. Markings There are four ROCAF decal options on the large sheet, with a nice split between camouflaged and grey aircraft, although not much information regarding the individual aircraft is given. From the box you can build one of the following: S-2E Sea Blue/Light Grey/Mid Grey Camouflage (new Roundel) Tail No. 2128 S-2E Sea Blue/Light Grey/Mid Grey Camouflage (old Roundel) Tail No. 2150 S-2E FS36622 Grey (old Roundel) Tail No. 2123 S-2E FS36622 Grey (old Roundel) Tail No. 2127 S-2A FS36622 Grey (old Roundel) Tail No. 2102 The paint call-outs are given as AMMO codes on the black and white profiles, but there's a helpful chart on the rear that gives conversion details for Vallejo, Gunze, some Tamiya and a few Humbrol codes, which should make it easier to convert to your preferred paint system should that be required. Oddly, there aren't any decal options for the G, but hey-ho, as they say. The decals are designed and printed by Bestfong from Taiwan, who specialise in Taiwanese subjects, and they are very nicely printed with good registration, sharpness and colour density, plus a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. As well as the decal options from the box, there are also strips of digits that could enable you to portray other options, but be aware that these numbers are all over-printed with a single layer of carrier film, so must be cut out individually. The stencils are shown on separate pages, using separate diagrams for the different camouflage variants. The A model's stencil layout seems to have been omitted from the instructions however, but I'm sure it's not too difficult to work it out. Conclusion A welcome re-release of this kit, and as it adds the A variant to the roster, it should appeal both to anyone wanting to model an early ROCAF S-2 (pre-turboprop era), and folks that might have missed out on the older boxings and wanted to play catch-up with their own aftermarket decals from another provider. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  22. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Kinetic is buzzing... Something really new (I think so as a little birdie tells me...) or something out of the pipeline (MIIID/B, Harrier GR.1/.3/.4, A-4 Skyhawk, C-17, F-18C etc.)? Wait and see. Source: https://www.facebook.com/Kineticmodel/?hc_ref=PAGES_TIMELINE&fref=nf Source: https://www.facebook.com/KineticModel-France-284153468459310/?hc_ref=PAGES_TIMELINE&fref=nf Source: https://www.facebook.com/kineticmodeljp/?hc_ref=PAGES_TIMELINE&fref=nf V.P.
  23. After its beautiful Grumman S-2E/G Tracker (http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=74094&hl=tracker), Kinetic is now working on the short version of the Stoof, the S-2A, with catalogue ref.48039. Source: http://s362974870.onlinehome.us/forums/air/index.php?showtopic=257024 V.P.
  24. Hi all, This is the fantastic Kinetic F/A-18B Hornet kit. It's already that accepted go to subject for a 1/48 legacy Hornet as most options can be built from the various boxings that have been released over the last two years. I'm building this one as the first assembled in Australia' Hornet A21-103 done up in 3 squadron markings. 'The decals will come from the now defunct Afterburner Decals sheet for RAAF Hornets. The build has been vice less so far with my available time spent doing up the cockpit tub. I've not chosen to go the AM route here as the kit tub is more than acceptable and when dressed up looks the part. Kit decals adorn the instrument panels and side consoles and funnily enough don't look to bad. I've had a good look at the kit plastic and photos from the Reid Air Publications book and the correlation between kit and real life is good. The seats are almost done, though I need to install the Aussie specific harness pattern to make them SJU-9/10 seats. Though perhaps not accurate the idea is to load it with training rounds to demonstrate what stores it can carry. So the idea is Stn 1 - Training ASRAAM Stn 2 - LGTR (BOL pylon and LGTR adapter) Stn 3- Tank Stn 4- Captive AIM-120 Stn 5 - CL LITENING Stn 6- ELTA-8222 Stn 7 - Tank Stn 8 - Training GBU-38 (BOL pylon) Stn 9 - ACMI pod or TCTS pod depending on the time frame. There's other assemblies I've worked on but this is the main output so far. Hope you like it. Michael The real thing. Airliners.net photo removed The kit tub so far. The fit is absolutely spot on. Pardon the instrument coamings as they aren't complete and are a bit on the glossy side. And the supplied seats are really nice too, just no harnesses. The full length intakes are really nice And all of the other jiggery-pokery
  25. Two-Seat T-Harrier (T.2/T.2A/T.4/T.4N/T.8) 1:48 Kinetic Model The Harrier is an iconic (in the truest sense) example of what was possible when British Aviation was at its prime. It was a revolutionary design back in the 60s, and has seen many improvements and even a complete re-vamp in the shape of the Harrier II, which saw McDonnell Douglas get more heavily involved, giving the US Marines their much beloved AV-8B, and the British the Gr.5/7/9, all of which had new wings, massively upgraded avionics and improved versions of the doughty Pegasus engine, which was always at the heart of this legendary design. The Harrier is a difficult aircraft to fly due to the high pilot workload, and requires the best pilots to do it justice, which means that trainer variants are essential, as simulators can only offer so much realism, even now. The first trainers rolled out in the 1970s, and have been upgraded along similar lines to their operational brethren to provide as close to real-world training conditions as practical. The fuselage was extended at the nose, with a huge blister canopy encompassing both seats, with the instructor sitting substantially higher than their pupil to afford them a good view ahead, and a long, weighted "stinger" tail extention to equalise the centre of gravity with the single seater. Although it disrupts the sleek lines of the single-seat variant, the Trainers have a strange charm of their own, and there have been some interesting schemes, including the Raspberry Ripple and Qinetiq liveries over the years. The Harrier II trainers have the new composite wing, and are designated T.10/12. The Kit For many years modellers of the Harrier have been crying out for a good quality kit in this scale, and also the two-seat variants, with only a partial answer being forthcoming until now. Kinetic have put a lot of effort and research into creating models of the two Sea Harriers already the FRS.1 and FA.2, both of which we have reviewed in the past, and have been well-received for their overall level of accuracy. Now we have this new tooling, which has a substantial cross-over with the original, and sold out so quickly that we have only now received our sample for review from the second batch that have been commissioned. Something tells me this won't be the last re-pop of the moulds. This kit deals with the earlier "tin wing" Harriers before the introduction of composites, so the most recent variant is the T.8, and anything earlier, all from the same box. There are nine sprues in grey styrene, three of which are new, plus one that has been slightly tweaked for this edition. There are two sprues of clear parts, a small fret of Photo-Etch (PE), a large decal sheet and the instruction manual. The big changes are forward of the engine intake "ears", but the rear boom is also extended for balance purposes, which helps achieve the ungainly look of the finished model, and that of course is exactly how it should look! The cockpit has two ejection seats with separate cushions and headbox details, plus slightly simplified PE crew belts and the pull handle between the pilot's knees. These are fitted into the stepped cockpit tub with rudder pedals, dual control columns, instrument panels that have separate painting guides, coamings, HUD and the big windscreen-within-a-windscreen that shields the pilots from ejection backwash in the event a quick exit is required. Detail in the cockpit is good, and will come up well once painted with a fine brush and some patience. In order to close up the fuselage the main gear bay boxes are built and painted, as is the bell-shaped intake trunking, having the front section on the nose gear bay attached to the underside of the cockpit tub, and the aft section to the fuselage sides. The rear bay is attached to the mechanism that allows the exhaust nozzles to rotate, which must be positioned opposite their exits before you can close up the fuselage. A choice of open or closed auxiliary vents are provided, which slot inside the intake lips, and the closed ones depict the characteristic gravity droop of the upper doors, which is as it should be. The wing is top mounted, with the anhedral moulded into the full width top panel, and the lower panels separate parts that bracket the fuselage sides. Separate flaps and their actuator fairings are provided, and although undocumented in the instruction booklet, these can be replaced by parts E1 to pose them dropped. Clear wingtip lights are supplied, which makes adding them a breeze, as their location would be a pain to fabricate your own. More good things! There is a choice of three tail fins, each with a separate rudder, and the elevators have a separate swash-plate and pivot lug for attachment to the fuselage, and the wing panel can be fitted nose-first, using a small lug at the front to find the correct location and alignment. There are no LERX to worry about on the older tin wings, and just a tiny PE mesh insert covers a vent at the rear of the cockpit spine behind the air conditioning. At this point the airframe is ostensibly complete, so spare a little time here to whoosh it around the room making suitable jet noises and ensuring you don't get caught doing it. The smaller assemblies are then built up, including the bicycle wheels, the canopy parts with some additional PE and plastic parts, plus a set of plastic rear-view mirrors to finish them off. You have a choice of laser or a pointy nose cone, which varied between airframes, as detailed in the accompanying chart, with another chart showing which tail stinger was fitted to which airframe to ensure you get both ends just right. Another choice of undernose inserts is made between T.8s and the rest, and the main gear can be fitted along with their respective gear bay doors, and a choice of small or large air-brake, which has its own chart of which one was fitted to which airframe. It makes a lot of sense to choose your decal option at the outset. Lumps, bumps, aerials and antennae are fitted on almost every spare inch of the airframe, plus an optional shoulder-mounted refuelling probe, PE stays for the side-opening canopies, after which you just need to decide what to hang under the wings and fuselage of this ungainly but beautiful aircraft. You have a choice of gun pods or strakes under the fuselage, which was always fitted with one or the other to keep the airflow from the engines diving under the fuselage too soon, and when the outer pylon is not used, a small cover is fitted instead. Kinetic are usually generous with their weapons, and here you a decent array too, most of which are on two identical sprues, with a few others knocking about on the others. The parts most fitted are as follows: 2 x 190 gallon fuel tank 2 x 100 gallon fuel tank 2 x Aden gun pod There are various other weapons on the sprues that would usually end up in the spares bin, as most training sorties would be flown with either a clean airframe, or with extra tankage as required. The trainer is technically combat capable however, so can carry other munitions should the need arise. Typically, this seems to consist mainly of Sidewinders of rocket pods depending on training requirements. Markings The decal sheet is A4 sized, and printed by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt/gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Design was carried out by CrossDelta, and includes a host of stencils that are covered on a separate page, plus ten options for different airframes and operators. From the box you can build one of the following: Royal Navy Fleet Air Arm T.8, ZD990/721, 899 Naval Air Squadron, RNAS Yeovilton, 2004-2005, RN Fixed Wing Standards Flight to April 2006 – gloss black overall, with black or grey tanks and winged fist on the tail. Royal Navy Fleet Air Arm, T.8 ZD605/720, 899 Naval Air Squadron, RNAS Yeovilton, 1996 – gloss black overall with outlined winged fist. Royal Navy Fleet Air Arm T.8, ZD604/722, 899 Naval Air Squadron, RNAS Yeovilton, 1996 – Gloss black overall, with outlined winged fist. Royal Navy Fleet Air Arm T.8, ZD605/718, 899 Naval Air Squadron, RNAS Yeovilton,1985 – Dark sea grey overall, with outlined winged fist. Royal Air Force T.4A, XW265/W 233 OCU RAF Wittering, 1992 – Grey green camo overall. Royal Air Force T.4A, XW266/51 233 OCU RAF Wittering, 1975 – Grey green camo over light grey undersides. Royal Air Force T.4A, XW272/Z IV(AC) Squadron, RAF Güttersloh, 1980 – Grey green camo over light grey undersides. US Marine Corps TAV-8A VMAT-203, MCAS Cherry Point, Late 1970s - Grey green camo over light grey undersides. Armada Española (Spanish Navy) TAV-8S 8a Esquadrilla (8th Squadron), 1988 – gull grey over white. Royal Thai Navy TAV-8S, 301 Squadron late 1990s – Gull grey over white. The intake roundels are sensibly broken into sections with separate parts for each of the blow-in doors to ensure good settlement into the shapes found there. I would have liked to have seen some decals for the instruments, but with a detailed painting guide for that area it's not a major problem, and even if it is, Eduard are bound to be along any moment now with a PE set that will give you all the detail you need. Conclusion We now have a rather nice Trainer Harrier in 1:48, and I for one couldn't be happier. Two of them is better of course, but a modern, detailed model was much needed. How long will tranche two of the mouldings last? Not long, at a guess, so if you're planning on getting one, I wouldn't hang around. I'm also getting the prayer mat out to wish for the composite wing 2-seaters. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
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