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Found 14 results

  1. Hypersonic Models is working on a 1/48th fully injection moulded kit of the AG-330 start cart for Lockheed SR-71/A-12. Source: https://www.facebook.com/hypersonicmodels/posts/2106514092767949 3D render V.P.
  2. Source: https://www.facebook.com/hypersonicmodels?fref=nf Jeffrey you're a Be aware: - Tanmodel has a 1/48th SR-71 Blackbird in project - ref.2203 - http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234967245-tanmodel-172-148-132-projects/page-2 - HobbyBoss is working on a new tool 1/48th U-2R Dragon Lady - ref.81740 - http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234972800-148-lockheed-u-2r-dragon-lady-by-hobby-boss-in-20152016 V.P.
  3. Folks, I've just released a couple of new resin products. First of all, to coincide with Hasegawa's re-release of the A-4C kit there is a new nose gear door suitable for all early Scooters until the A-4C. It differs in quite some way from the kit supplied door which is the later type, only suitable from the E onwards. The other item is a canopy detail set for the Zoukei Mura Phantoms (all variants), in the same way as my sets for the Hasegawa and Academy Phantoms. Unfortunately, a little bit of extra work is required in that a moulded-in raised detail on the inside of the forward ZM canopy has to be sanded off first. For this, a pre-cut piece of masking tape is provided in the set so you can protect the canopy transparency from damage when sanding. Available at now at hypersonicmodels.com Cheers, Jeffrey
  4. Hi all. My Revell 1/48 build using Hypersonic models Operation Odyssey Dawn Decals and painted using Mr colour and Tamiya gloss and flat coats. Hope you enjoy. _C2A5183 by Rob Jones, on Flickr _C2A5184 by Rob Jones, on Flickr _C2A5166 by Rob Jones, on Flickr _C2A5173 by Rob Jones, on Flickr _C2A5182 by Rob Jones, on Flickr _C2A5171 by Rob Jones, on Flickr _C2A5172 by Rob Jones, on Flickr
  5. Canberra PR.9/B(I)8 Canopy (HMR48030 for Airfix) 1:48 Hypersonic Models The Airfix Canberra has been out for a loooong time, so there's more than a few out there by now, and what you might not have noticed is that the canopy's profile from the front is U-shaped on the fighter-style installation, when it should be C-shaped to afford the pilot a better view of his surroundings without bumping his helmet against the Perspex. Along come Hypersonic Models with a fix for you on the basis "better late than never", but in fairness to Jeffrey, he hasn't been twiddling his thumbs since 2008, so put the pitchforks back. Arriving in a clear clamshell box with ziplok bags protecting all the small parts, the set includes two cast clear resin parts, six grey resin parts on two casting blocks, and a small winding of malleable black wire. The instruction sheets are colour printed on A5, and take up three sides of two sheets, as there's a fair amount to do. The first steps are to remove the clear resin from the casting blocks with razor saw, then polish the cut line back to smoothness. The parts are nice and clear, which can be further improved on by polishing and/or dipping in Klear/Future. With these parts off, the fixed rear section of the canopy fairing is removed from the kit insert and sanded smooth, then replaced by the new resin part, which has the curve moulded-in, and is sat on a very small T-shaped gate on its casting block to allow the modeller to preserve its curve. The opening part of the canopy is prepared with two openers at the front, a horse-shoe stiffener part-way back, and a bulkhead at the rear, with scrap diagrams showing their orientation from the sides. The de-misting tubes are replicated by lengths of wire running along the side frames and disappearing behind the ejection seat, and this is repeated in the windscreen, which is shown from two angles to help you arrange them correctly. If you are closing the canopy, remove the four studs on the canopy's contact patch, and don't install the resign rear-view mirror and compass parts that you'll find at the top of the windscreen roll-over hoop. A final diagram shows the correct off-centre position of the canopy from the front, which opens up with a port-side lean due to the hinge location and the fact the canopy is off-centre on the fuselage. Conclusion A superb bit of extra detail for your PR.9 or B.(I)8 kit from Airfix, and well-worth adding to your stash if you haven't built yours yet. The casting blocks are sensibly placed and shouldn't require much in the way of clean-up, and the inclusion of the wire to form a complete package is always good to see. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  6. F-4 Phantom Fuselage Correction Set (HMR 48029 for Zoukei Mura) 1:48 Hypersonic Models Zoukei Mura's new(ish) Phantom is well-liked, but even the best kits have their faults, with this one being no exception. There is a small error in the shape of the aft fuselage, which may or may not bother you, and if it doesn't, then it's probably best to go and read another review of something else. Jeffrey, the owner of Hypersonic is a perfectionist, and makes no apologies for it, but will not criticise you if you aren't, which is a good attitude in this hobby of ours. He has made this set to assist those that would like to make their Zoukei Mura Phantom that bit more accurate, for you to use as and if you see fit, and fully appreciates that it the amount of effort involved won't appeal to everyone. Arriving in a small card box with a header flap, the set contains two large resin parts, a small sheet of pre-cut vinyl templates, and a glossy, colour instruction sheet spread over two A5 pages printed on both sides. The resin parts are the two sides of the aft fuselage, and are attached to their casting blocks at one end, with a pair of diagrams clearly showing where they should be removed at the beginning of construction. The instructions describe the process very clearly and concisely, walking you through the cutting of the fuselage halves using the vinyl templates, which are placed against panel lines and cut along the opposite edge. It is recommended to begin with the right side (A1), which can be placed flat down because of the lack of pins. This also lets you test the fit against the other fuselage half before you cut it too, which ensures you have a Phantom that doesn't fly round in circles. With one side done and the seams hidden, again with more advice from Jeffrey on doing the best job, the other side is cut and joined with the new section. Then a small section of the kit fuselage is thinned to match the new cross-section (a side-effect of the correction), and if you're building an Air Force airframe, you should also remove the chaff boxes from the resin as these weren't fitted on their aircraft. Conclusion Casting is excellent, as usual with Jeffrey's work, and it is one of his new "Made in Japan" sets following his move to that locality last year. The only decision you need to make is do you want to accurise (I hate that word) your Zukei Mura F-4, and are you proficient enough to make a good job of it. If the answer to both questions is "yes", then you need one of these sets. The fact that the set is also pretty pocket friendly might sway you a little. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  7. Hi, a year as passed already and it's nearly SMW time. I'll be in the same position as in previous years (hall 2, wall, position F2, next to Hollywood Trade airbrushes and near Wonderland Models). To ensure you get the items you're after and receive a 10% discount as well, please place your orders for show pickup soon, the web shop will close on Monday the 30th for stock preparation for the show. Please note that the Skywarrior items are currently being shown as out of stock, but please get in touch directly (PM, email, Facebook...) and I can add engine or canopy sets to your order. Cheers, see you at the show! Jeffrey
  8. F-4 Phantom Outer Pylons (US Navy) 1:48 Hypersonic Models F-4 Phantom Outer Wing Pylons (US Navy) (HMR48028) This is a set of Navy type outer wing pylons designed to fit the Zoukei Mura Phantoms (J and S). The set comes with separate sway brace pins so the modeller can adapt them completely free to the specific store and correct outboard angle (in case of MER or TER installed). Conclusion One thing common to a lot of F-4 kits is that they expect the modeller to use the outer tanks, however many phantoms flew without these and MERs / TERs could be loaded as long as the weight limits were kept. This set remedies this omission. While designed for the ZM kit there is no reason they can not be used on other kits. Jeffrey's attention to detail is legendary, and it shows in every set he makes. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  9. Hello, I have something new to announce: The HobbyBoss A-6 Intruder kits suffer from remarkably little problems, but one error is the ill-shaped fin tip. I've made a simple resin replacement part that corrects a few shape errors as well as improves surface detail. Here is a comparison between the stock kit fin and one with my resin replacement fitted: Installation is by means of a simple cut along the existing straight panel line. The resin part features a mounting tab that fits into the cavity between the fin halves. Available now at Hypersonic Models! More now stuff is on the way... Cheers Jeffrey
  10. Hello, it's been a while since I've been able to make a new product announcement, but today's that day I've made a set of full depth resin exhausts and nozzles for the A-6 Intruder family in 1:48, designed in particular for the Hobby Boss kits. I haven't tested them on any other kit, but they may fit or be made to fit the Kinetic or Revell kits as well. Even though buried deep inside, I just couldn't NOT provide a detailed J-52 business end as well, including a small photo etch part for the probes that stick out into the exhaust gas. Pictures: Assembled and painted (I could add more weathering), and then test fitted to a Hobby Boss A-6A which has had the kit parts modified as per the instructions that come with the set: Note that this is an Intruder exhaust only - the nozzles on the EA-6B Prowler are a little different (they have more powerful engines). I'm also currently working on a Mk. GRU5 seat for A-6A's and early A-6E's. Cheers Jeffrey
  11. Source: https://www.facebook.com/hypersonicmodels?fref=nf Jeffrey you're a Be aware: - HobbyBoss is working on a new tool 1/48th U-2R Dragon Lady - ref.81740 - http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234972800-148-lockheed-u-2r-dragon-lady-by-hobby-boss-in-20152016 V.P.
  12. A-6 Intruder Exhaust Set & MB GRU5 Ejection Seats 1:48 Hypersonic Models These sets from our friends at Hypersonic are aimed squarely at the new(ish) EA-6 Intruders from Hobby Boss, which are pretty well detailed out of the box, but not up to Jeffrey's high standards, which has resulted in a couple of sets to both increase the detail and ease the build process of the exhausts a little. Both sets arrive in ziplok bags, with the comprehensive instructions on glossy paper stapled to the rear. Any delicate parts such as Photo-Etch (PE) is protected by a small slip of thick cards to prevent damage during transit/storage. A-6 Intruder Exhaust Set (HMR48017) The kit exhausts are split along their length around the curved section, and replicated by cylinder-shaped sections on the straight, with a separate engine rear face that is… well, shockingly poor compared to the rest of the kit. This resin replacement throws all those parts out, opting for a series of five cylindrical sections that remove the need for any sanding of seams, but also allows the parts to be moulded at a more scale thickness to improve realism. The difference between the resin and kit is akin to chalk and cheese, with lovely engine face detail with stator-blades, central bullet fairing and a delicate PE insert that fits between the two parts that make up this area. The two curved sections are added next, kinking outboard to the straight section that is the highly detailed tip of the exhaust. Each part is keyed with small blocks and cut-outs, so getting things lined up should be easy enough, and each part has a small raise number preceded by L or R so that you don't get the parts mixed up once the casting blocks are removed. When you have glued all the parts together, the casting numbers can be sanded off before painting the outside. Painting of the interior is probably best done before construction, and take care to remove any mould release residue in warm soapy water (or isopropanol) before you start painting. To install these corrected nozzles in the kit, you will need to thin the area of the fuselage into which they are fitted, which has been pointed out in two diagrams showing the inside and outside views, with shading where the work needs to be done. Another diagram highlights a tooling mistake on one of the kit parts, and how to remedy it by reducing the corner to a curve. Martin Baker Mk.GRU5 Ejection Seats (HMR48022) These seats were used in the Intruder until the mid-seventies when they were replaced by more modern GRU.7s that are supplied in the Hobby Boss kit, correcting your seat if you are modelling the early version. The package includes two seat bodies with plenty of moulded-in detail, plus a separate casting block containing a number of small detail parts. One tiny part was missing from my set, but was probably loose in the bag before I carelessly tipped them out. The moral of the story – check the bottom of the bag, and tip the contents out onto a clean desk. The seat just needs a wash and prime before painting, and this is probably best done before adding the smaller parts. Two diagrams show you which colours to use where on the seat, using generic colour names rather than paint codes for one particular manufacturer. There is a fine resin pull-handle that activates the seat and face curtain at the top of the headbox, and this has a web of resin in the middle that needs removal with a new blade before it is fitted to the headbox. The little part at the top of the seat's firing tube is easily installed (if you haven't lost it), and a pair of tie-rods are then added to the rear of the seat on either side, with the other end attached to the bulkhead behind. The extra detail of the seat, the realistic moulded-in seat belts that are subtly different between the two seats (everyone else, take note!) and the quality of casting makes these hard to resist. Conclusion The kit seats (GRU.7s) are incorrect for the early A-6, and these resin replacements will lift the detail nicely with very little effort, while the improvement to the exhausts is massive, giving a much better scale appearance and detail to the area once fitted. Jeffrey's attention to detail is legendary, and it shows in every set he makes. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  13. F-4 Phantom Canopy Details (Academy/Hasegawa) 1:48 Hypersonic Models These two sets from Hypersonic bring all the extra detail often overlooked when building the canopy of an aircraft, with these two tailored to fit either the Hasegawa or Academy offerings in this scale. The two sets are identical in their construction, but due to the slight differences in shape and size between the two manufacturers it was prudent to create two sets to avoid frustration. The sets arrive in a bubble pack, with a removable rear portion that is held in place by friction alone, so is easy to remove. Inside are four casting blocks of mid-grey resin, a same sheet of Photo-Etch (PE), and two lengths of fine wire of different diameters. The PE is protected by taping to a small piece of card, and both are separately bagged for their protection. The instructions comprise two pieces of glossy printed paper and the diagrams are printed in colour, which will help during construction. Brass parts are depicted in a golden yellow, with red used to point out parts, their location or things to watch out for. Hasegawa Academy After removing the parts from the casting blocks and washing them in warm soapy water to remove the last of the mould residue, the kit's clear parts are glued carefully into the resin frame parts, and their edges sharpened to fit the cockpit aperture. Inner frames are added from PE, and a PE hoop finishes off the front of each canopy, with rear-view mirrors already attached. Various tiny resin parts are then added within the canopy rails, and a opening mechanism is also installed, along with wires and springs that you make from the supplied materials. This is repeated for the other canopy, and then the fixed parts are detailed. The windscreen is given an edging strip around the hoop, and a small resin instrument is added high on the starboard "corner" of the hoop. The central section of the canopy is given edging strips fore and aft, and a small resin backing piece is added to the top of the hoop to form the basis of the hinge box. Instruments of various types are then added to the underside of this section along with their wires, with six options depending on which variant of the Phantom you are upgrading. Conclusion You will need a steady hand to do all the work, plus a pair of tweezers and magnification if you're sensible. Some of the parts are tiny, and the wires are very fine, so take your time and less swearing and grovelling about on the floor will result. The level of detail for such a small area is superb though, and well worth all the effort. Very highly recommended. Choose Hasegawa (HMR 48016-1) or Academy (HMR 48016-2) from the drop-down box. Review sample courtesy of
  14. Hello! Finally I can announce that as of today my 1:48 X-15 decal sheet(s) is ready to order from my shop. I've started work on this towards the end of last year and as today the final bits arrived (second decal sheet, cover sheet) and I managed to squeeze the instructions all into one giant .pdf (17 pages) please feel free to order a sheet or two I've drawn many profiles (22) of all three X-15 airframes at various stages of the program and the decals should give you all the markings necessary to depict any X-15 at any time, including tank markings for the X-15A-2, cockpit instrument decals and ground dolly placards. So even if you don't fancy using my resin parts for correcting/converting the Special Hobby kit, you can still get a nice exteriour with a good paint job and these decals. Link Cheers Jeffrey (updates on my current F-15E project will follow in "work in progress" over the weekend...)
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