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Found 52 results

  1. can the above mentioned gloss cote be thinned with water??
  2. I've been really busy over the last few weeks and haven't had a lot of time for kitbashing so I was planning on not contributing to this Group Build, but having been out in the garage to check it survived this week's high winds I came across this kit in the deep stash and thought it would make a good, simple and relaxing build. We'll see! It's a boxing from about 20 years ago and begs the question - what was Humbrol thinking??? Inside you find the typical 1960s-era small Airfix kit: Basic by modern standards and a bit flashy but not unbuildable. Construction looks straightforward: There's a very generous 3 markings schemes provided: Decal sheet looks nice but the Heller-produced sheets of that era could be variable in quality: OOB is the order of the day, I think. I have fond memories of this kit having first built it on a family holiday in Carnoustie back in the early 1970s. I'll probably paint it this time... John
  3. Restoring and identifying my 40+ year old stock of old Humbrol Enamels has been a bit of a chore. I found this website.... https://robdebie.home.xs4all.nl/models/authentics.htm It helped me identify some that had me confused, for example a tin of R303, which is BRM Racing Green, probably from my Airfix MRRC car days! Finding modern replacements is harder, but I located a copy of a cross reference list printed by IPMS some years ago. I only have it as hard copy, but will scan it and upload as a pdf.
  4. Humbrol Clear (125ml) I should start this review with an apology to Humbrol. I’ve had this product in my possession for other two months but haven’t been able to write this review. This is not without good reason though, as I prefer to use a product of this type before reviewing it. Modelling opportunities have been very limited recently, so I haven’t had the chance to do so. I’ve finally managed to get out to the workshop and fire up the airbrush, so here is the review. Humbrol describe this new product as a thin, clear varnish that goes on clear and stays clear. Presumably that means it is not prone to the yellowing that can be a feature of some spirit based varnishes. Judging by the name, this product is intended as a replacement for the much-missed Johnson’s Klear floor polish that was beloved of many modellers all over the world until its withdrawal and replacement a few years ago. I’ve only used this varnish with my airbrush so far, but I can vouch for Humbrol’s claim that it dries to a low gloss finish which can be improved by the application of further thin coats. This is actually an important point, because if you give in to temptation and spray too much onto your model at once. It will pool and cause an uneven finish. A high gloss can be achieved by more judicious use of the product. Unfortunately I haven’t been able to try dipping canopies in the product, but I hope to try this soon and will update this review with the results. Conclusion From personal experience, I would say that this is an interesting and useful product. I have to confess that I never really got to grips with Klear as a varnish, but find it indispensible for improving the clarity of canopies. First impressions of Humbrol’s Clear are positive, and hopefully this will turn out to be a worthy successor. Review sample courtesy of
  5. Humbrol "Matt" paints. Anyone else get glossy results from their matt paints? BB
  6. Need a little help. Year ago, Humbrol made a color called Silver Plate, possibly HM20. It was a very bright, shiny silver, not quite chrome, that could be hand painted onto tiny details to look like silver buttons ( or aircraft hydraulic cylinders). Does anyone have any idea of a modern equivalent? The Silver Metallic #11 most recently sold by Humbrol is more like a semi-gloss aluminum shade, not silver. I'd prefer an enamel, but will entertain options. Thanks, Ed
  7. John

    Rustins Fire

    Rustins, who contract manufacture Humbrol paints for Hornby, have a note on their website saying that their warehouse was destroyed by fire on Monday evening: On the evening of Monday January 8, 2018 Rustins suffered a damaging fire at our warehouse in north London with all of our stock destroyed. The London Fire Brigade attended to put out the fire and is investigating the cause. At this point our factory appears to be in working order. We are working on our business continuity plans to liaise with our customers, suppliers and employees to get back to production as soon as possible. We will update you when we have more information and thank you in advance for your continued support. John
  8. Having returned to modelling after a gap of some 40 or so years some of my Humbrol tinlets, which go back to the late 60s or early 1970s needed checking. Whilst most are in perfect condition a few had succumbed to the passage of time and were what seemed to be beyond help. I was reluctant to throw them away. But reading through many posts here I thought it was worth trying to recover them. I bought a "Trumpeter" branded battery mixer and some Humbrol thinners. Step 1 was to put about 5mL of the thinners into the tinlet and using a metal spatula cut up the solid paint into smaller bits. I put the lid back and left for a couple of days to soak. Step 2 was to put another 5mL in the tinlet and start work with the mixer. The softened paint started to mix, I added more thinners as needed. I repeated the process several times over a week or so in so far all the tins have been restored to usable paint. I was curious: what is in Humbrol thinners? A bit of web searching and I discovered a MSDS, or material safety data sheet. It is issued by Rustins, well known paint makers and probably the UK maker of all the now UK made Humbrol paints. What is in it? 80% (70% to 90%) NAPTHA (PETROLEUM) HYDROTREATED HEAVY: This was not a surprise and is a highly refined light hydrocarbon, with little smell. It is highly flammable. 20% (10% to 30%) 2-METHOXY-1-METHYLETHYL ACETATE: This was a surprise. It is a commonly known as PMA and mainly used as a solvent for industrial paints and coatings in the automotive industry. It is also used as a solvent in the electronics industry and formulated into industrial and commercial products. Some specific examples are paints, inks, lacquers, varnishes, cleaners, coatings, etc ink removers. In the Humbrol thinners it helps keep pigments in suspension and I suspect it is a component of the paint. So, the recovery of semi solidified Humbrol paint using Humbrol thinners is the solvent of choice, for compatibility and efficiency. The next stage is to see how Humbrol enamel thinned with Humbrol thinners works. The only problem with Humbrol Thinners is the price.. £5.50 for 125mL..about the price of a glass of wine!
  9. Good evening. I am returning to modelling and suspect that the Stork Margarine tub hiding in my garage containing paints purchased in the early 1980s had probably had it, so it's time for me to re-stock. I do remember buying the very first Tamiya acrylics back in 1981/2 and at the time, those of us punters in the Manchester Model Shop (happy days) were looking at them like prehistoric man looking at an iPhone. I am thinking to building my base collection using Humbrol acrylics. Logic: Humbrol is probably the easy default brand and it's supporting good old Hornby, and acrylic because it's a darned sight easier to clean than enamels. Am I being silly? I know that I shall be adding to my paint collection over time and see options with Tamiya, Vallejo etc. but am I being too doctrinaire by trying to stick with acrylics? I'm really interested to learn. Kind regards, Neil
  10. Hi I was looking to buy 1:48 A-10 but considering the expense of the model, I really want to make it perfect. One problem I have had in the past is decal silvering, even with Humbrol Decal Fix, so now I want to buy a varnish to help me apply them better (I have never used a varnish before). I have searched the internet and most people seem to use Alclad or Humbrol - given the fact that I have never used any Alclad products, I will look to buy Humbrol. I need a gloss varnish to apply the decals onto, however, Humbrol offer different ones: https://www.humbrol.com/uk-en/shop/coatings-thinners/humbrol-gloss-clear-125ml-bottle.html https://www.humbrol.com/uk-en/shop/coatings-thinners/modelcote-gloss-cote-28ml-bottle.html https://www.humbrol.com/uk-en/shop/spray-paints/varnish-sprays/35-enamel-varnish-gloss-150ml-spray-varnish.html (this can also be bought in tins however I feel like spraying the varnish would be better???) EDIT: http://www.alclad2-online.co.uk/index.php?CATEGORY=1&SUB=4&THISPAGE=2&RADIOSORT=5&PICFILE=163&STKNR=163&STRH=4165&ORDN=5029&RNZ=586536 (After some research Alclad II Aqua Gloss sounds very promising, however, I do not have an airbrush which I think is what it is designed for - any opinions on brush use of it?) Any info one what the differences are would be greatly appreciated. Oh, and I'll be brush applying if they do come in bottles because I don't have an airbrush. Cheers, Adam
  11. Hello all. For many years (long ago) I used only Humbrol paints. Then, they became hard to get in the U.S>, so I switched to Model Master. I recently dug out some of my now 20 - 30 or more year-old Humbrol paints, and I still marvel over the super tiny pigments. My questions: Does Humbrol still make enamel paints with the very tiny pigment. ( I read a few years back that their supplier in China had dried up)? How do they cover whether air or brush painting? Is there anything else out there with a super fine pigment, that is airbrush ready (particularly in U.S. colors, since that is what I build, mostly)? I am mostly interested in Humbrol enamels and comparing old-time to newer, but would also appreciate opionions about other types (ie acrylics) it they were more or less problem free in a .2mm airbrush. Thanks for any comments, ED
  12. RidgeRunner

    Humbrol tins

    Hi all! Does everyone struggle like me to keep these tins sealed and the paint lasting until the very end without drying up? I am thinking about decanting in to "Wilkin" small jam jars. Has anyone out there tried this? If so, what is your experience? Thanks, Martin
  13. Just having a look through the stash and one of the contenders for next build is the Trumpyboss 1/48 MiG 23MLD Flogger K. The colour call outs are pretty vague and non specific so I'm wondering if there is another kit out there with better colour call outs to use. If there is a decent enough walkaround I might be happy enough with that tbh.
  14. I am currently working up to starting my first kit in a great number of years, and I've noticed a lot of talk about how good/bad the paints are these days. I used to use Humbrol enamel tins back in the day (1990s), but it seems from some comments that they've changed the recipe and gone downhill. As my first model I'm looking to build an ADV Tornado in 1:72, so lots of shades of grey. I don't have an airbrush so the paint will be manually brushed on. Has anyone got any good recommendations - I am prepared to ditch Humbrol forever if there is a decent alternative.
  15. Hi all. My most recent project has come to an end. Minicrafts little 737 kit is rather simple, but also a joy to build. Added antennas, and beacon lights. Decals are from Max decals. Paint from Xtracolor (Maersk blue) Humbrol ("Boeing grey", corroguard, nose) and Alclad for leading edges of wings and vertical/horizontonal stabilisors. Here goes: Cheers Robin
  16. Hi, what scale is a Sea King helicopter from Heller Humbrol Bobcat / Bobkit? Not Airfix tooling but snap fit from Heller mould. Is it 1/72 like their Super Puma Cougar and other Bobkit kits (Transall, OH-6, Harrier T4, F-16 and Phantom) or is out of scale? Thanks
  17. Humbrol Acrylic Paint Humbrol Humbrol is a brand name synonymous with scale modelling. With a long and rich history in the hobby, there won’t be many British modellers who have never prised open a tin of their enamel paint, squeezed a tube of their polystyrene cement or dipped one of their paint brushes in a tin of their thinners. Their history is intertwined with that of another iconic brand too – Airfix. Humbrol have had a range of acrylic paints available alongside their long-standing enamel paint range for some time. Now that they have moved most of their manufacturing back to the UK, it seems a good time to take a look at some of them. Humbrol have sent a box containing a sample of acrylics in 14ml plastic pots. The following colours were inside: 9 – Tan (gloss) 12 – Copper (metallic) 18 – Orange (gloss) 20 – Crimson (gloss) 38 – Lime (gloss) 52 – Baltic Blue (metallic) 67 – Tank Grey (matt) 86 – Light Olive (matt) 94 – Brown Yellow (matt) 155 – Olive Drab (matt) 191 – Chrome Silver (metallic) 237 – Desert Tan (matt) 238 – Arrow Red (gloss) 239 – British Racing Green (gloss) Humbrol acrylics are water based, which makes them easy to use indoors where the odour of enamel paints and associated thinners can be a problem. The 12ml pots are nicely designed, and it’s possible to remove the screw-top lids and access the paints without spilling the contents everywhere. Once opened, they can be brush painted or airbrushed, and can be thinned with water or isopropyl alcohol. The paint is reasonably thick though, so a minute or so invested in stirring the contents will be well spent. I’m a fairly dedicated user of acrylic paints already, although Tamiya and Mr Colour are my favoured brands. That said, Tamiya’s range is far from comprehensive and Mr Colour is hard to get hold of in the UK, so I’m always open to the possibilities offered by different brands. I tried spraying this Humbrol acrylic with my Iwata Revolution airbrush, having thinned it with Tamiya’s X-20A thinner. I’m happy to report that it sprayed very nicely indeed, with good colour density and adhesion. I applied it to one of Airfix’s resin buildings, but I hope to try it on injection moulded plastic soon. Conclusion You can’t really fault Humbrol for the range of colours that they have available, particularly if, like me, you are used to thinking in Humbrol from a youth spend gluing Airfix kits together. They appear to spray and cover well too. Of course if you have Humbrol’s excellent work station (reviewed here), then these little pots will fit perfectly into that too. Recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  18. Afternoon folks - as I haven't enough Alclad for my current Lightning project I thought I would give the Humbrol Metal Cote a bash. Now I tested it on the spare Lightning fin - let it dry for half an hour then tried buffing it up with a micro cloth and micromesh pads but I can't see any improvement! I figured it must be my flawed technique and I better ask the experts! So can anyone give me some advice on getting Humbrol 27002 polished up to look like polished aluminum? thanks Chris
  19. Hello all. I'm in a state of confusion at present, heh. Ok, so here's the issue. After quite a hiatus I've recently got back into some modelling. Back when I use to make models, I put them together, painted them and added the decals, and that was it. I never used varnishes or washes or weathering. For Christmas I received a Bandai 1/72 Y-Wing starfighter. A bit different from what I used to make, being a clip-kit, but I actually quite liked not having to faff around with glue, sticking the parts to myself more than the other pieces So anyway. I gave it a coat of Tamiya primer, then some flat black and light grey for the shadowing. Other bits were painted with Tamiya acrylics with tiny amounts of Revell matt enamels here and there (for chips and marks and whatnot). Overall, I think it looks pretty good for my first foray into 'beating' up a kit. Now here's where the dilemma sets in. Varnishing. I've read a lot about Klear. Of course, prior to this kit, I'd never heard of the stuff. Apparently it was renamed and rebottled and appears slightly different, but works the same way. I got my hands on some Pledge Multi-Surface Wax, which I think is the same stuff updated. My surety wavers a little when I see people displaying bottles with the old Klear markings above the new title (I haven't actually seen anyone with the exact bottle I have). I've tested it on a small piece, and it did do the job. Also stood up to a small test of Mig washes and a bit of paint cleaner (still waiting on my Mig thinner to arrive). However, the results were a little less stellar on a larger test piece (the kit base). It didn't seem to apply consistently, and even after a few coats the wash test didn't really flow into all the little nooks and cranny's. In hindsight doing a test clean up with the Revell paint cleaner probably wasn't the best choice ( ) since it started to remove the underlying layer, but the exercise had me a little concerned for when I would apply this stuff to the model. By brush, I might add. So I started looking around. So far I've snagged myself a can of Vallejo matt acrylic for the final job (I think prior to applying Mig pigments, since I hear coating them doesn't work well) since a test of adding some flat base to the pledge didn't exactly work, but my recent test had me wondering about the gloss. Today I had a look around. The options were limited to a bottle of Windsor and Newton gloss varnish (not sure how that would react), and some Humbrol gloss cote. My confusion flares up with regard to the Humbrol in particular. The Humbrol video on the gloss cote says to thin it up with enamel thinners. That would suggest its composition is similar to enamel paint, or something similarly solvent based (no real information on what its made up of that I can find). But then the Humbrol washes (and the Mig for that matter) are enamel, and cleaned up with enamel thinners. So how is it the Gloss cote isn't stripped off as well? I'm pretty confused at the moment, and a little worried to try anything in case it completely knackers all my work so far. If anyone can clear this up for me, I'd really appreciate it. I'd also love to know for certain if this is the right stuff: Thanks for any help in advance
  20. Anyone tried the new Humbrol Luftwaffe enamels (the ones in the 24x range) yet? What are they like for colour accuracy and actually drying matt like they are supposed to? Any other observations?
  21. My first post on britmodeller and my second 1/48 scale model from Airfix. I'm going to be brush finishing this model with humbrol enamel paints and will be updating this topic a couple times a week I hope all of you enjoy and I look forward to some feedback from you guys thanks ! This the colour scheme I choose for the finish with the 24 yellow nose cone and 123 extra dark sea grey on top with a Number 90 beige green and 135 satin vanish mix for the underside of the model ">http:// I also have some Sprue pictures and a picture of the paints themselves ">http:// ">http:// paints ">http:// Thanks for having a look And I'll be starting the build soon
  22. Hi, I've asked for an airbrush for my birthday, a Badger one of some description (I'm sure I can find it if it matters. I'm planning on using it for some Airfix tank models and a Spitfire. I do have some previous experience with models,although I've only done about 8 before. I was just wondering how much I should thin my paints for use in the airbrush. I'm planning on using Humbrol acrylic paints (they do say that they can be thinned for airbrushing, but they don't say how much I should thin it). Also, would water be sufficient for thinning? If so, any advice on what amount of paint to water I should use would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
  23. For my Scarab... 50s/60s, and often later until the military was sold off to the civi contractors, RAF or RN vehicles were generally blue (obviously save for specials and frontline eg RAFG). Best Revell, Humbrol or Tamiya (possibly Vallejo if stocked)? Would love 100% accuracy but won't be mixing %s so will take a 'very close'. ... VMT. D.
  24. Hello everybody, did anyone succeed in airbrushing Humbrol acrylics? I found this paint cannot be thinned with ethanol, my favorite airbrush-thinner. It rather turns into a sludge or does not disolve in the ethanol. Water, on the other hand, works very well with Humbrol acrylics. Citadel seems to be similar in this aspect. But I never succeeded in airbrushing anything thinned with water, as the paint immediately forms beads or tiny puddles on the model's surface. I have more or less the same problem with water, water with detergent, window cleaner (a German variety, I can't get Windex here, but it is probably similar) and even 70% IPA (=30% water). The problem seems to be that the water does not evaporate soon after hitting the surface as other, more volatile thinners do. On the other hand, I often read that people are using water or water-containing thinners for airbrush, so i wonder how it works. Ands sometimes it would be nice to be able to spray Humbrol or Citadel. Actually, the problem arose with a Folland Gnat that I had planned to spray with a Citadel silver (looks better than Tamiya's) and Humbrol's Fluorescent Red. Do you have any experince on this subjects? Thanks in advance, Ole
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