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Found 8 results

  1. Jagdpanzer 38(D) Tank Destroyer (35A021) 1:35 Amusing Hobby The Hetzer, as this tank killer is better known now, was based upon the chassis of a Czechoslovakian design that was taken up by the Germans when they invaded, occupied the country and took over the factories. After being deemed adequate for service with the Reich, many variants and hulls were created by German industry as was their wont. The 38(T) was based on a widened chassis, uprated engine, and a low centre of mass, which was achieved by eschewing a traditional turret in favour of a casemate with a limited traverse, putting the onus on the driver to achieve rough targeting, while the gunner fine-tuned his aim using the traverse available to him. The lack of turret and wide sloping hull gave more crew space, and this was to be increased further by the enlarged 38(D) but this only reached prototype stage before the end of the war. The increase in chassis width allowed the engine to be moved forward, giving the fighting compartment extra room, which is always at a premium in battle. It was to be mass produced as the designers were happy with their creation, but it was never to reach fruition along with some of the other variants, some of which had turrets. The Kit A brand new tooling from Amusing Hobby, who are well known as purveyors of many paper panzers from WWII's darkest days for the Reich. There were few satisfactory kits of the Hetzer 38(T) available until recently, so having this model in injection moulded plastic is a real boon to anyone interested in the what-if of WWII armour. Even enlarged as it is, the 38(D) is still a fairly petite tank, and inside the box are six sprues and a lower hull part in mid-grey styrene, a bag of track links in brown styrene, two sheets of Photo-Etch (PE) brass, a small sheet of decals, instruction booklet in matt colour, and painting guide in glossy colour. Construction is quite straight forward with no interior detail to assemble and paint, so the build begins by detailing up the lower hull tub with final drive housing and a single return roller on each side. The wheels are fitted to the suspension units in pairs with two on each side, totalling four pairs, all of which fit into the long slots that project below the hull. The drive sprocket is made up from two halves and a central hub cap, and if you are careful with the glue on all the caps, the wheels should remain able to rotate. The hull is flipped right-side-up and the fenders are attached to the edges with an L-shaped tongue overlapping the inside of the hull to give it extra strength when set, which is then further stiffened by the addition of the rear bulkhead, which has towing hooks and extra track links added before it is glued in place, with stiffeners extending out across the rear of the fenders. The idler wheels are fitted on stub axles that are surface-mounted on the bulkhead to extend the track run and ease track tensioning on the real thing. Although there is no interior, there are openable hatches in case you want to include crew (not supplied), and the hinge for the top hatch is the first thing to be added to the inside of the upper hull together with some vision blocks and the aiming periscope which then has the curved and armoured panel fitted to the top deck with armoured periscope covers and mushroom vents, plus a visor for the driver's slit, light and grab handles on the engine deck. The main hatch is fixed to the hinge, a mesh vent is placed over the louver, another run of track links are held in place by a long clamp, and the exhaust is made up and covered by a mesh outer that must be rolled to shape, testing frequently against the diameter of the plastic muffler. An MG34 machine gun is stationed on the roof with a small drum mag and a splinter shield to protect the gunner, another periscope is installed on the rear roof, and a mesh sided armoured cover is fitted to the engine deck over the main access panel. The complete breech is not depicted, but the big mantlet is provided with casting detail moulded in, within which the hinge-point for the gun is hidden along with a base to attach the barrel. The barrel is moulded from a single styrene part, and by use of slide-moulding it has a hollow muzzle, with only mould seams to scrape away in preparation for installation and painting. It slides through the big cast Saukopf (pig head) mantlet cover just like the real thing, and attaches to the stub in the mantlet, after which the completed assembly can then be fitted to the aperture in the glacis plate, with pioneer tools added to the rear before it is joined to the lower hull. The tracks are added almost at the last, and are supplied as individual links that clip together with no glue needed. There are two sprue attachment points on each link, which are easily cut flush, and no ejector pin marks or sink marks that I can see, so putting together 96 links on each side should be a piece of cake. I test fitted a short run, and the parts clip together easily just by inserting one pin into the hole at an angle, then flexing the other into the opposite side. The pins may deform a little, but not enough to render them useless, however as they're only held on by flexible pins, don't expect them to stay together with rough handling or pulling. Treat them gently during painting and everything should work out fine. With the tracks on the short PE "schurtzen" or side skirts are fitted to the hull using PE brackets that nestle into small recesses on the hull, which must be glued with super glue (CA) or epoxy – CA for speed and ease. A tool box is added to the port rear fender, and on the starboard the jack is pinned down by two brackets, finishing the build phase. Markings As this tank never saw service, the markings options provided on the A3 painting guide are fanciful and as such the world is your oyster when it comes to painting. The schemes are quite different from each other, but most have been seen before on other vehicles, and it's only natural to expect that those schemes might have been carried over to the 38D if it had seen service. Colour call-outs are in Mig Jiménez's AMMO codes, and no markings are shown applied to the schemes, but a small generic set of crosses and white outlined red codes are supplied to get your started. The decals are well-printed with good register, colour density and sharpness and have a closely cropped matt carrier film over each one. Conclusion Although the finished model is likely to be mistaken for the "ordinary" Hetzer, you will know the difference, and it should build up into a good looking replica of this Jagdpanzer that almost made it into service. Detail is good, casting and torch-cutting details are there where appropriate, and the use of PE parts to give scale thicknesses to the skirts is good to see included in the box. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  2. Hello All, after an enforced layoff from modelling I have recovered these from the shelf of shame and completed the builds. Questions and comments welcome. Gee hope this works, not used to using Flickr after the photobucket debacle last year..... Happy Modelling Ian
  3. Hello All, Dragon Models Panzer Korps Series Early Hetzer and Jagdpanzer IV A-0 in 1/144 scale. Good detail for the size but the rubber tracks are abysmal.... Happy Modelling all, Hope all goes well on the modelling front in 2017! Ian
  4. Jagdpanzer 38 (Sd.Kfz. 138/2) - Hetzer, pics thanks to Dave.
  5. Panzerjäger 38(t) Hetzer & G-13 - Vol II Kagero Photosniper 3D - Casemate Publishing The German Hetzer (Baiter) was a light tank destroyer of the Second World War based on a modified Czechoslovakian Panzer 38(t) chassis. The project was inspired by the Romanian Maresal tank destroyer. It was intend to be a cost effective tank destroyer using an existing proven chassis and carrying a relatively powerful 75mm gun. It succeeded the Marauder II in service. As a weapon it succeeded in its design brief by being by being cheap to build, reliable and small enough to be easily concealed on the battlefield. The Czech factories which produced the Hetzer for the Germans continued to produce them after the war for training, and for export as the G-13. These were sold to the Swiss, and this is the source of most of the vehicles we see restored today. Initially the book gives the reader 24 pages if history on the vehicle including many black and white photos, they also include a set of 1:35 scale drawings. The centre of the book features a walkaround of a vehicle used by a Polish re-enactment group "Die Freiwillingen". Their machine is painted to resemble a Hetzer of the "Hermann von Salza regiment, used on the outskirts of Berlin in 1945. There follows a comprehensive set of 3D renders from inside, and outside of a Hetzer. The volume then wraps up with a series of colour profiles showing the main different camouflage schemes which were applied. Conclusion This book is certainly a good read. The history section is excellent on its own. The series of 2D and 3D drawings will be of immeasurable value to the modeller, as will be the colour profiles. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  6. Hello friends!. Here is my last project finished in Dcember 24, 2012. This is the new Academi kit, 1/35!. Construction "Out of Box" at 96% (only add-ons = tow cable and lens). I not painted the rear light deliberately. Version, Eastern Front - Unit Unknow. I hope you like it Regards! Rodolfo
  7. Etched set for German Jagdpanzer 38(T) Hetzer 1:35 ET Models E35-128 The Jagdpanzer 38(t) (Sd.Kfz. 138/2), later known as Hetzer ("baiter"), was a German light tank destroyer of the Second World War based on a modified Czechoslovakian Panzer 38(t) chassis. The project was inspired by the Romanian "Mareşal" tank destroyer. The Jagdpanzer 38(t) was intended to be more cost-effective than the much more ambitious Jagdpanther and Jagdtiger designs of the same period. Using a proven chassis, it avoided the mechanical problems of the larger armoured vehicles. It was better armoured than the thinly armoured earlier Panzerjäger Marder and Nashorn with a sloped armour front plate of 60 mm sloped back at 60 degrees from the vertical (equivalent in protection to about 120 mm), carried a reasonably powerful 75mm gun, was mechanically reliable, small and easily concealed. It was also cheap to build. Yet another set in the ever increasing range of detail sets from ET Models, this one is for the Tamiya JagdPanzer 38(t) Hetzer. Packaged in the usual manner of a card headed thick poly sleeve, in which there are two medium sized sheets of relief etched brass taped to a black backing sheet. One small brass sheet and one small etched nickel sheet are contained inside a small poly zip lock bag. In another small zip lock bag there are four end pieces for the towing cable and a length of silver coloured twisted wire to make up the cables themselves. The construction begins with the front and rear mud flaps and foot plates. These come as flat pieces of brass and will therefore need a ballpoint pen run down each indented line, giving them a 3D effect of the treadplate. To the finished plates the strengthening ribs and brackets are fitted before the assemblies are fixed to the kit hull. As with preceding sets from ET there are numerous new straps and clamps for the engineering tools, jack, spare track links and the tow cable storage rack. There are also new brackets for the exhaust and silencer, headlights and aerial base. A replacement engine intake surround and grille are fitted to the rear of the hull, whilst a storage box with clasp is attached to the left hand footplate. Grab handles are provided for fitting all round the upper sides of the hull and steps for the rear hull. The curved periscope is replaced with a new brass item with attachment. The commanders hatch is provided with new internal and external hinges and locking mechanism, whilst the machine gun has new shields and a new sight. To finish off the set provides new side skirts with their respective hangers and brackets. Conclusion This set is quite small compared with some of the sets ET have released, but there is certainly enough here to appease most detail buffs. I think this would be a very good set for a novice PE user to get to grips with doing a full tank load, seeing as the Hetzer is only small anyway. Highly Recommended. Available soon from White Ensign Models in the UK Review Sample courtesy of
  8. Pz.Kpfw 38(t) Ausf E/F 1:16 Panda Hobby The Panzer 38 started life as an inter-war Czech designed medium tank that was co-opted into service by the Nazi war machine when Czechoslovakia was annexed prior to WWII. It's age is exhibited by the comparatively light main armament and the riveted and bolted construction of the armour plates. Additional armour was deemed necessary in German service, which was achieved by the addition of extra plates to the existing armour, rather than replacing the panels, and these were designated as E through to G. Although it was already a fairly old design by the outbreak of WWII in Europe, manufacture continued until 1942, when the realisation that it could not take on the Russian tank of the day, the T-34 dawned upon the designers. Its chassis carried on however, and was used as a Flakpanzer, the well liked (by its crew) Hetzer and the Marder III. Crews said of the drivetrain that it was well-designed for use as well as maintenance, which resulted in a low breakdown rate, with easy repairs when it did fail. Its main use was on the Eastern Front, but it was pulled out of frontline use due to its light armour, and although it continued as a reconnaissance tank, that was the remaining chassis from the 1,400 that has been built were re-tasked in earnest. The Marder III was an attempt to break through the armour of the T-34 with captured 76.2mm Russian guns mounted in open turrets, and this in turn led to the more successful Hezter. The diminutive Hetzer (officially designated Jagdpanzer 38(t)) had a wider chassis and heavier armour in a turretless design, turning it into an effective tank destroyer that became increasingly common right up to the end of the war, with almost 3,000 built. The Kit This is the first kit in Panda's new "Huge Monster Series", as evidenced by the 16001 catalogue number on the end of the box. Even though it is a relatively small tank, the dimensions on the front of the box show a length of 288mm, width of 133mm and height of 144mm, which is handy to know if you're not familiar with the scale. The box is around the same size and proportions as an Airfix Valiant box, just to give you an idea of how it'd fit in your stash - it's a top opening box that is pleasingly heavy, and inside you will find rather a lot of styrene in individual bags. There are eleven sprues in dark grey styrene, seventeen ladder sprues in mid-brown styrene containing the track links, a clear sprue, a sheet of Photo-Etch (PE) brass, a turned aluminium barrel for the main armament, and a sheet of decals for the tank's markings. The instruction booklet is in the form of a narrow A4 and runs to eight pages packed with construction sequences. The painting and marking sheet is A3 and printed in full colour on glossy paper, with a side-profile printed on the rear that could be framed and hung on the wall after use if you're careful with it, and so minded. First impressions are good, and after you stop looking for the hull and realise it is supplied in slab-sections, it is obvious that a lot of detail has been crammed into the parts, including a basic turret interior and full breech. It is also clear that the kit has been made with absolutely no regard for motorisation, which I'm sure will disappoint a few folks, but most will be happy with a static model of this lesser known, but important tank. Slide-moulding has been used where sensible, a turned metal barrel improves the look of the gun immensely, and the individual track links with separate pins have been well done, and have only seams and sprue links to clean up - not an ejector pin in sight. Of course, instruction starts with the drivetrain, and detail here is good. The drive sprockets are made up from two sprocket parts with two hub components coupled to the final drive, and the idler is similarly doubled up to trap the guide-horns, with a track-tensioner axle attached at the rear. The roadwheels are built up in pairs on their suspension arms, which have traditional leaf-springs between the axles. The wheels are separate from the tyres, which will please a lot of folks, and again, the two-part hubs are present. The return-rollers are built from two parts attached to a small stub-axle, and these are then attached to the hull. The hull itself is built up from a base with rolled front section, two side panels, front glacis plate with a large hatch in it, and the rear bulkhead, of which you have a choice of two for E or F models. Once that has set up, the running gear is added using locating pegs & holes in the sides of the hull, along with a bump-stop for the front suspension pair and two return-rollers per side. The fenders are one-piece per side, and run from stem to stern, with folded PE brackets providing extra strength on the real thing. The upper glacis panel is built up from the two layers of armour, and the ball of the bow-mounted MG is trapped between them, with a simple breech added to a socket on the rear of the ball. The muzzle of the 7.92mm ZB-53 gun is hollow thanks to some handy slide-moulding, but its part number is wrong. The vision blocks are shown in the open position, and have small hinges, stays and latches added during construction to finish them off. The upper hull with the turret ring is added next, and here Panda have taken the trouble of putting a highly detailed set of teeth around the aperture, although it will seldom be seen unless you model the tank as knocked-out. The fenders are festooned with pioneer tools, which are very well detailed with more realistic tie-downs when compared to the usual shapeless blocks you see on smaller scale armour. For some reason these steps are repeated in steps 13 and 14, so can be ignored. As mentioned earlier, the barrel of the gun is turned from aluminium and has a hollow barrel for realism. This is clamped between the breech parts, which are built up into a good representation of the 37mm kwK 38(t) L/47.8 cannon, the German version of the original Skoda A7 unit. The coaxial machine gun is also present in another ball-mount, this time trapped behind an internal bezel within the mantlet. This also has a breech identical to the bow-mounted one. Unlike the bow-mounted MG though, the turret coax doesn't have a hollow barrel, but could be quickly drilled out for extra realism if you wished - why they gave us only one hollow barrel is a mystery. The turret has a high cupola for the commander, which has a quartet of clear vision blocks mounted in armoured blocks every 90o around the hatch. This is added to the roof of the slide-moulded turret part, which lines up with the four sections of the inner hatch wall moulded into the turret. Additional sighting is achieved by a periscope that sits just forward of the commander's cupola on the port side. The underside of the turret with its cut-out is glued inside the turret shell, and a pair of jump-seats are added on tubular brackets for the gunner and commander. The aft deck is fairly empty, save for one grille that has a PE mesh panel installed over it to stop debris and grenades from finding their way inside. The exhaust is on the rear bulkhead, and is cylindrical with input and exhaust tubes on either end. Attached to that is a shroud for the input pipe, and on the rear of the cylindrical section is a box that is intended for smoke candles, set on a bracket. Additional track links are added to the fenders, and here the repeated construction steps start to take their toll. Clearly there were other steps that have been missed out during production of the booklet, as there is a large sloped sided box on the starboard fender behind the jack-block, and yet it is not mentioned in the instructions until it magically appears on the back page. It's a shame, as it's a nicely done perforated piece, which has benefited from some slide-moulding to make it in one piece. The jack fits across the top of it in a pair of recessed, and this is also ignored in the instructions. A length of spare track also appears on the underside of the bow, with no word of how it is affixed, although I have a hunch that part E50 has a hand in it. Oops! I'm sure that this will be corrected now it's known, but in the meantime, a little guesswork will be required, and some reference to reference photos to see how it goes together. Oddly for a tank, the tracks are not covered until the very last step, almost as an afterthought. In a scrap diagram the links are shown being glued together, and you are told that you need 186 of them, which I assume will mean 93 per side. The track pins that are provided in large quantities on the side of each track sprue aren't mentioned however, but most tracks seem to be assembled with an open or closed pin, which are both supplied, six of each on each sprue. You'll need to check your references to see which one goes where, so take care when assembling them. The last act is to add the turret and some small PE parts to the upper hull, and place the communications aerial on the bow plate on its bracket that attaches to the port corner. Markings Decals forfour options are supplied in the box on a medium sized sheet that has been printed in China. Printing is nicely done, with minimal carrier film between the numerals, although there is a slight registration error between the black and white colours, so you'll need to trim the ends of some of the balkenkreuz (German crosses). From the box you can build one of the following machines: "525" Pz. Regiment 25 of the 7th Pz. Division, Russia 1942 - overall Panzer Grey "833" Pz. Regiment 204 of the 22nd Pz. Division, Crimea 1941-2 - overall Panzer Grey "522" Pz. Regiment 204 of the 22nd Pz. Division, Crimea 1941-2 - overall Panzer Grey "1003" Pz. Regiment 25 of the 7th Pz. Division, Russia winter 1941-2 - overall Panzer Grey with a worn white distemper overcoat Conclusion As someone that has recently been introduced to the world of 1:16 armour, I'm very pleased to see this kit, and it bodes well for the next and subsequent kits in this scale from Panda. Detail is excellent, just as you would hope with the increase in scale, and even the most hardened adherent to rubber-band tracks will be able to deal with these nice big links, although having to research where the pins go is a minor pain. Of larger concern is the mistake in the instructions, as less experienced modellers might struggle to figure out where the unmentioned parts go, and may not even realise that they are missed, resulting in an incomplete tank. Hopefully Panda will come out with a downloadable addendum for those that have the incorrect instructions, but it's a mistake that could have easily been averting by proofing or even a test build following the instructions. Somewhere along the line, the copy & paste machine took a wrong turn. Don't let that put you off the kit though - it's well done and highly detailed. We shall have to wait for the P38(t) experts to pick over the fine details to hear more about the accuracy of the shape when built, and to find out whether there are any smaller details that need working on, as is so often the case with any older, and even some of the newer tank designs where production was in a constant state of change from month to month. If you've not tried 1:16 armour before, this would make a great introduction, as the finished product is relatively compact, and the detail is that of a model kit, rather than a well-detailed toy. It deserves to do well. Highly recommended. Welsh Dragon Models are hoping to have amongst the first stocks in the UK soon. Review sample courtesy of and available soon from major hobby shops
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