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Found 884 results

  1. Taking a little break from the F1 cars and building something from my dream garage. This is the Hasegawa 1:24 Lamborghini Miura SV. It's the original red molded kit that I primed and changed to metallic green. I really liked this kit - proportions look great and the wheels are beautifully detailed. Foil transfer emblems also do a great job of enhancing the exterior of the kit. The only issues with the kit were some light sink marks around the headlights that I was able to level with some Tamiya Liquid Primer. Built box stock. The colour is Mr. Color Metallic Green #77 which was then clearcoated with GX100 Super Clear. It has a bit of a pearl in it which changes the colour depending on the light source - it can get very turquoise in some light and very green in natural light. I was trying to match one of the first factory restorations that Lamborghini's Polo Storico did. I think the metallic pigment is a good size for this scale, but my primer base could have been sanded smoother - the roughness of the primer showed up a bit more than I thought it would in the metallic. I stripped the chrome off the wheels and knockoffs, painted the wheels aluminum and used Alclad polished aluminum for the knockoffs. I love the wheel design and Hasegawa did a fantastic job replicating them. Window trim was all done in Bare Metal Foil with a Molotow Liquid Chrome pen for some of the chrome details like washer nozzles and door handles. There's half an engine in the kit, but it's all but invisible once you put the body on - you can just barely see the white air filters through the louvers and the glass at the back of the interior. Here's the interior before it went behind the glass. Interior was painted with Vallejo Air Golden Brown and Sand Beige. I used embossing powder for the carpet which was then painted but I feel it looks a bit too 'sandy' as opposed to fluffy. It looks okay through the glass. Some nice touches from the Hasegawa kit here including the foil transfer for the shift gate. I've been doing the grey background studio style shots for my builds so far but thought I would try some photographic backdrops to see how the model would look on 'location'. I found a few hi-res photo backgrounds online and then went to the 5 storey parkade next to my office and took photos of the pavement and sidewalk from above. I printed them out, mounted them on some foamcore and set them up as ground and background. I'm enjoying the photography as much as the build - I think my favourite part is seeing the reflection of the environment in the gloss of the body. Downtown location: At the parkade: Some back street in France maybe: And a shot of my elaborate outdoor studio: Thanks for looking, comments, questions and critiques always welcome. Martin.
  2. Time to start the New Year off with a fresh project, although helping my youngest daughter remodel her house is taking it's toll on the ol' modeling time... This is the first Blue Whale: Anyway, this will be a build of the 1/72 Hasegawa A-3B Skywarrior kit into a model of the very first Blue Whale, the XA3D-1. The Hasegawa kit: will be paired with the Obscureco Skywarrior cockpit set (the A-3A being as close as I could get for the cockpit of the XA3D-1), shown above right. There are some pieces in this kit that are excess to requirement as they are for other "Version" of the A-3, and they are not shown in the above photo. Also used will be the Muroc Model XA3D-1 conversion set: This conversion set has the correct "slanted" intakes, which only appear on the #1 ship, BN 125412. The #2 ship, BN 125413, as well as all subsequent variants, have "vertical" intakes. This kit also gives you a resin "master" for the cockpit, which allows you to vacuform another, should the need arise, as this canopy is different from later variants. There is also a rear gun turret, although the guns and it's controls were not installed on the first prototype. The is also a new nose and pod for the top of the vertical stabilizer. Sadly, I just found out the the Hasegawa kit does not have the correct wheels for the prototype or bomber versions, but instead has the wheels for the other "Versions" that followed later on. I have order a Reskit conversion for the wheels, and a comparison will be shown for the edification of fellow modelers, in due time. I'll begin with a seemingly simple task, installation of the front wheel well that is included with the Obscureco kit. In the second picture of this article, I failed to notice that the wheel well was stuck to the cockpit floor, but I can assure you, it does not go there! Below, it is shown glued to the right fuselage half with just a couple of drops of CA: Picture two, just above shows the fuselage halves being pressed together, to assure that the wheel well sits straight up and down, before properly gluing into place with more CA on the right side. The third picture above, shows the addition of other glue, a thicker, sticky glue, in case the CA ever fails. You may ask me HOW I KNOW THIS. Let me just say, that once a wheel well (or even a cockpit) comes loose after the fuselage is closed up, it will make you feel greatly discomfited! Before anyone posts that they've never had this failure ... yada, yada -- give yourself another 40 or 50 years of modeling without taking this precaution, THEN we'll discuss it! Please note that this mostly only occurs when bonding resin to resin, or resin to plastic NOT plastic-to-plastic, but, you never know with CA. For plastics, I like to melt the dickens out of it with Weldon #3, and rarely use CA to assemble plastic. Next order of business is to install the various components of the Obscureco cockpit, show in the following two pictures: There are a few things to note here. Because of my inability to find even a single photo of the major areas of the XA3D-1's cockpit, I am a little unsure of the pieces glued on, and marked with the two arrows. The upper arrow points to an equipment support bracket that Obscureco tells you where to put, but not how to orient. The lower arrow is sort of an equipment shelf (selected for the A-3A version -- again, as close as I can get to the XA3D-1). Lastly, the "G" marking shows the area where gun controls would normally be installed on a version with the tail turret, were the guns and controls mounted. Next, a view of the cockpit from the rear: In the above photo, the arrow points to the A-3A Bombardier/Navigator station selection from the Obscureco kit. Again, stations for other variants are provided in the kit. Anyway, because of my lack of photos, if anyone out there can chip in with knowledgeable placement on these pieces, or on correct cockpit colors for this version, I'd be grateful. In the absence of further guidance, I'll probably choose the usual black-over-Interior Green selection, although it could be black over black as well. While the later variants come in a variety of colors, the fact that this prototype was built more or less around 1950, before the gray interiors became mandated, give one pause to think. If you KNOW, please help! Well, at least it's a beginning. More soon, I hope! Ed
  3. Having not built a Stuka for nearly 50 years I thought joining this GB would sort that out, this year is also the 80th anniversary of the Battle of Britain so I could also start my build of aircraft that took part in that epic battle. On checking through my stash I had two Hasegawa Stukas, one with resin ski's and this one for the Balkan operation. I was going to build it in North African markings, yes with the snake, I have the Peddinghaus set for that, but as I have always wanted an aircraft from 6./St.G 1, their badge has a devil holding a flaming torch and sitting on a bomb, I thought why not. The plan is to build it almost straight out the box with just the Eduard zoom to improve the cockpit, Eduard mask to help with the canopy and Quickboost resin machine guns and exhausts to improve those two areas. I do not want to over complicate this build, that's how I end up not finishing in time. Let the fun begin.
  4. So this is the kit... It's a 2017 rebox, looking online it seems the Hasegawa moulding seems to go back to 1994, though possibly it predates that as it's quite a sparse kit. It seems the kit fantasy livery is based on a a Japanese Manga called "Area 88", I won't be using those - instead I have some aftermarket Flying Colours decals and will have my first attempt at using a vacuform canopy (shown here next to the supplied canopy). I'll probably go for the dark blue/dark green scheme.
  5. Hi folks My latest build is a model of a legendary fighter aircraft, McDonnell Douglas F-4E Phantom II in Iran Air Force color. Been flying for more than 40 years in my country, a hero of 8 years war with Iraq and still going strong! This model represents the early days of conflict when these Phantoms used to bomb Iraq with british made BL755 CBUs. The Hasegawa phantom is a straight forward kit to build. What else I used are: -Master pitot tube -Hataka and Gunze colors -Print scale (Mr.Khosravi) decals -Eduard stencils -WINGMAN BL755 cluster bomb units Sorry for non professional and low quality pictures. Hope you enjoy seeing this model. Regards Barzin With his mates... The real LOVE
  6. Hi there! First GB of the year done (Mustang), time for another This will be my model, once again, like all my 1/48 prop planes, is from my dad's stash. And it will return to my dad's shelf once done. But I get the pleasure to build it and don't have to worry about storing it. Win-win? Pretty artwork I must say! Quite a lot of small sprues! Looks decent, though - Hasegawa kits tend to be pretty good. Will be doing the winter camo version. Looking forwards painting the splinter camo first and do some weathering with the white winter paint, should be fun! I will start building this weekend - but probably need to get couple of RLM paints before I can start painting properly. Thanks for checking this out, feel free to to join the fun & comment & offer constructive feedback!
  7. Hi guys, I will be building a 1/48 Hasegawa Ju-87R-2. It will be build almost staight from the box. There is a extra set of decals to make it a Italian Stuka. These will come from a old Eagle Strike sheet. I will put up some pictures later. Cheers
  8. So this is yet another conversion of a Sikorsky SH-3H kit to depict the SH-3D "Old 66" recovery helicopter for Apollo 11. It's the first time I've posted to "Work In Progress". I suspect I'm going to be grateful for input from people with more experience of this aircraft. My starting point is Hasegawa's 1/48 kit: I've also got the necessary short sponsons from Belcher Bits, the Starfighter/Old 66 decal sheet, a set of Montex paint masks, and the Hasegawa 1/48 SH-3D instruction sheet, downloaded from Scalemates. On opening my kit box bought from eBay, I discover I've also got two sets of Quickboost seats (if anyone wants one, drop me a PM and I'll post it to you), and an Eduard photoetch cockpit set. I started by doing a bit of scratch building to produce the camera mount and Yagi antennae. I've been helped with the appearance of the camera mount by watching Todd Douglas Miller's excellent Apollo 11 documentary. The camera mount for Apollo 11 seems to have been a bit more complicated than is often depicted: The lower right image is from NASA / S-69-21723; the others are screen-grabs from Apollo 11. There is certainly something mounted outboard of the two video cameras, wrapped with yellow tape. I've interpreted it as being an SLR stills camera with a motor drive. Here's my best effort to sorta-kinda reproduce the appearances above: In the Apollo 11 images above, there also seems to be a weapons mount point just forward of the camera mount, bearing some sort of attachment I can't quite make out and which I can't find in my reference material. I'm going to need to scratch build this, too. It seems the same sort of fixing was probably present on the aft mount points on the port side too: What was happening on the forward mount points behind the sponsons is a mystery to me. I'll put together another stills camera to mount on the starboard side, but I've no evidence of what this actually looked like, beyond a tantalizing glimpse in about three frames of Apollo 11, as the helicopter drops out of sight on the elevator. The Yagi antennae were a bit more straightforward. Here they are with their attached cables: I used the "free" resin seats and photoetch detailing in putting together the cockpit. It's an SH-3H instrument layout, but it looks better than I could manage trying to detail by hand: The SH-3D instructions were very useful in finding out which lumps and bumps needed to be removed from the fuselage, since that kit used the same moulding as the SH-3H: I also shortened the horizontal stabilizer and filled the locating holes for its supporting strut: The kit comes with what seems to be a depiction of the dipping sonar retracted into its well, so I carved that out and blanked off the upper end of the empty well with styrene card: Finally, I used the Montex interior masks to paint up the inside of the canopy, and added the green panels with Tamiya clear green (which I found something of a nightmare to apply). Hopefully, some actual assembly photographs coming up soon.
  9. Hi All. With my growing interest in Air Racers, I was very much surprised with the prompt delivery from Australia of Hasegawa's box of goodies, this: ...yum, yum. Decals look very nice but they're Hasegawa, so... Both owned by Jacqueline Cochran to set various records; NX28388 article here and N5528N article here. Not to sure whether I will do both of them in the GB but I will need to get the Mustang II and III at an advanced stage before I'm happy to start another. Stuart
  10. Hi guys, I will be building the 1/48 Hasegawa Saab J-35 F/J Draken kit. I will convert it with a Aires set to the S-35 E recon version. I have got some extra goodies for it. I will place some pictures later. Cheers,
  11. Hi comrades! I decided to try NMF and new (for me) decal manufacturer - Armycast. So, the fantastic Hasegawa kit exists in my slash for 25 years and I don't remember why I bought it (I'm not big fun of Sabre...). Because the decals are dead, I chose different livery - 53rd Fighter Day Squadron, Bitburg AB, Germany. The build was straightforward, very small amount of acrylic putty was used. Nose weight was fixed with Tamiya two-component putty. Only aftermarket-resin seat by Quickboost and the decals. So far painting is complete. Next stage - decals and undercarriage assembly Thanks for looking
  12. Time to dust off a model that was built as far as the primer stage about five years ago: Hasegawa F-16A, to be finished as S/N 92-0409 from NAS Fallon circa 2002-2008: and a shot of the blue / grey aggressor scheme - decals will come from the Eduard "Top Falcons" boxing. I also have the Eduard "NATO Falcons" boxing so intend to build two of the NATO versions using those two kits - as one is at a similar stage to this model, it may too appear in KUTA in due course. I'm going to use Mr Paint for the first time and have a set of jsworkmodel masks for the camo. Here is a link to a rather patchy version of the scheme. Mike
  13. And another new 190 project DSC_0009 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr
  14. After 2019 (link)newsletters, the Hasegawa news for January 2020. Source: http://www.hasegawa-model.co.jp/month/202001/ V.P.
  15. Hi there. Just finished another swedish jet a few days ago. It´s a conversion from Hasegawas J35F to a S35E using a lot of Maestro Models nice stuff. I used etched parts for the cockpit, a new nose and extra fuel tanks, a KB pod, the RWR pods under the wings and the complete tailcone. From Pavla came a new vacu formed canopy, from Pilot Replicas the pilot and from Hasegawa the ground crew member. The ladder is also an etches part from Maestro. Daniel
  16. Finished today. The model depicts Hans Ulrich Rudel's Ju 87G 494193.
  17. Hi everybody, in case you haven't been following the recent Floatplanes and Flying boats GB, I present to you my entry to this very enjoyable GB: Hasegawa's N1K1 Kyofu (Rex) in 1/72. It is a very nice kit and I made only a few modifications: the engine exhausts were replaced by brass tube the plastic pitot tube was replaced my Albion Alloy tubes (it doesn't necessarily look better this way, but it is not as likely to break!) I experimented with the stressed skin-effect. It turned out be a bit heavy on the rear fuselage, but given the fact that is was my first try, I am quite satisfied.
  18. I started this model as a part of the recent P-40 group build but in rushing to finish it to meet the deadline I managed to snap one of the undercarriage legs and ruin the wheels. The retraction jack from the broken leg pinged off and in disgust I threw the model in the bin. A couple of weeks later I managed to find the retraction jack and remove the other leg - along with the remnant of the broken one. With a paid of new undercarriage legs from SAC (at great expenses) I fished the model out of the bin and started to re-finish it. So, around 6-weeks after the group build finished we now have a Hasegawa P-40E in the markings of 'Texas Longhorn' of 1st Lt John D Landers from the 49th Fighter Group, 9th Fighter Squadron from New Guinea in 1942. The original build log is here: I'm actually pretty pleased with the way this has been rescued - although I still need to glue the canopy on. Still some work needed on the photography I think. I've got a new light-box studio to work with but need some practice.
  19. Good Afternoon, Sometimes you pick an aircraft that you want to model because the markings are interesting, or because there is a interesting bit of history behind it, or you really like the aircraft itself. In this case, I chose this build because of the absolutely ridiculous weapons load that was applied to this aircraft for testing purposes. Normally the A-10 is not cleared to fly with drop tanks and any weapons, but the fine folks at Eglin Air Force Base did some testing in 2013 to clear the aircraft for just that. See the press release here: https://www.eglin.af.mil/News/Article/814477/40th-fts-expands-a-10-fuel-limitations-in-combat/ This picture is what inspired me to do the build: 130814-F-OC707-052 by J Hooper, on Flickr This particular aircraft, being a test bird, has some differences when compared to a normal A-10C, but they are not too significant. For this build I used the Hasegawa A-10C kit, not because it is the best in the scale, but more so because I happened to have one in the stash. Pros: Good shape, reasonable fit in some parts, extra sprue with C model specific parts (the only kit to do so in 1/72) Cons: Raised panel lines, oversimplified details, poor fit in some other parts. Before construction, I rescribed the entire kit, my first time ever doing so. Rather than go nuts and try to correct any misplaced panel lines, I simply copied those that were already on the kit. I wanted to do some detailing with the kit, but didn't want to go crazy and spend too much time on it.
  20. Hi all. Number six for the year and the final one for 2019. The 1/48 Hasegawa J2M3 Raiden. I started this one almost two years ago however a disaster at the painting stage shelved it for almost 18 months. I picked it up about three weeks ago and finished it this evening. (10pm AEST, 31/12/19). I chopped open the canopy, added ResinArt wheels and exhausts, painted the roundels and used Aeromaster decals for stencils and ancillary markings. I really enjoyed the dinged up green on this one. There's so much scope for weathering with Japanese WW2 era subjects and this is a great subject to apply it to. Happy New Year and safe 2020 to all. Mick
  21. Here's my just-completed 1/48 OA-4M - last one for 2019! I needed a mojo restorer and this fitted the bill very nicely - it's taken just over a week. Apologies to anyone who might have been following my all too brief WIP, I got carried away and stopped taking photos as I went! This is the Hasegawa 1/48 TA-4J converted to an OA-4M using a resin conversion set from Phase Hangar. The conversion set was very nice indeed, it included everything needed for the conversion (on the outside anyway), including a nice pair of seamless intakes, and everything was a pretty good fit. One thing to watch out for if you do the conversion - the instructions call for you to add the brake parachute - don't, it wasn't fitted to the OA-4M. Decals are from Furball Aero Design and worked very well. Perhaps not quite as much contrast between some of the decals and the dark ghost grey though. Just one thing missing which I'll always notice, and was missed in my haste as I got carried away. Can anyone spot it? On to the photos: thanks for looking and happy new year Julian
  22. Hello friends, Here is the Hasegawa G4M2E “Betty” bomber with Ohka Kamikaze. I had completed this kit earlier in the year but now I finally got around to posting the pictures. My observations of this kit are as follows........... 1. Used “Hair Spray” technique to weather the subject. A. Mission Models IJN Deep green on the upper surface B. Tamiya Flat Black for the undersurface C. Alclad paint for the base silver / metal D. Used a moistened cloth rag to “peel” the paint. The Mission Model green came off easily but the Tamiya flat black took more of an effort. 2. Built straight from the box. 3. Used Eduard canopy masks for the clear parts 4. Model Master IJN Grady for the Ohka. 5. Used Uschi bobbin thread for antenna wire. 6. Used contrasting colors to replicate replacement propeller ( starboard / right side ), slightly darker green for a replacement panel on starboard wing, masked off a panel on the lower starboard wing, and lighter green on the fabric control surfaces. 7. Other weathering by using pastels, washes, and paint. 8. Tamiya tape for cockpit seat belts. References indicated that Japanese maintenance crews were required as a source of pride to keep all national markings and squadron insignia in a clean or pristine state. I tried to reflect this with this kit. I found the kit straightforward and simple. Masking the many sections of the clear parts was very time consuming but the results are worthwhile. I would recommend this kit to all. Thank you in advance for all of your comments. Respectfully submitted, Mike
  23. Seen in the Eduard Facebook : https://www.facebook.com/EduardCompany 1/48 Lockheed F-104G Starfighter???? - New kit (MiG-21 style!)? - Reboxing: Revellogram, ESCI or Hasegawa + improvement sets? - New PE or/& resin sets? IMHO the DACO set (http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234933435-148-lockheed-f-104-starfighter-updatedetailing-set-by-daco-released) and decals + the Hasegawa kit are good enough. V.P.
  24. Hi all Here is my RAN A4G Skyhawk finally finished 4 months after my last post -it is a shelf of doom rebuild. WIP link here - https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235027738-ran-a4g-skyhawk/ The main list of parts used and some of the detailing as follows - Avionix A4E resin cockpit Aires resin Wheel bays and white metal landing gear set AMS resin wheels Eduard slat and vortex generators etch SAC Buddy Pod Master refuelling probe and cannon barrels Flight Path USN Carrier Deck set provided the ladder and wheels chocks Maketar paint mask for RAN roundels - - fin checks masked by hand - very fiddly AOA A4 airframe stencil decal sheet Scratch intake and exhaust blanks push moulded wing navigation lights & hazard beacons scratch built forward engine bay door port scratch built detailing added to landing gear & wing pylons various Quickboost bits and pieces like scoops a generous donation of spare Hasegawa A4 sprues from a fellow modeller Finally allocated a spot in the display case thanks for looking CJP
  25. #30/2019 Most probably the last new one by my dad for 2019. Started with an ICM kit but switched to a Hasegawa kit with decals from AML, superfabric seatbelts from Eduard, painted with Gunze H306 FS36270 for the underside and Tamiya XF-82 RAF Ocean Gray 2 and XF-81 RAF Dark Green 2. Used darker shades of these colours to simulate freshly overpainted RAF roundels on the wings. Build thread here https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235061874-lend-lease148-supermarine-spitfire-lfixe-soviet-airforcepvo/page/2/ The model shows an aircraft of 26 GIAP PVO, Leningrad 1944-45. DSC_0001 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0002 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0003 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0004 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0005 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0006 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0007 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0008 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0009 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0010 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0011 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0013 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0014 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0015 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0016 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0017 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0018 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr
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