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Found 980 results

  1. After years of staring at the model in my cabinet, I decided last week after seeing yet another P-3 kit started that it was time to crack on with the restoration of this: I built this back in 1981, I think. Considering it was all brush-painted and the walkways painted, it wasn't a bad job but the seams were terrible, it needed nose weight (which I'd left out) and the decals were all faded (no clear coats on my models in those days!). I want to rebuild it as a flying desktop model of the EW version of the AP-3C, two of which will continue in service with 10SQN, RAAF for a few more years. I have the Hawkeye Models decal set I'll use for this and I managed to get a copy of the Hamilton Hobbies ELINT conversion set, too. It's suffering from the moulds becoming worn, so I'll need to do a fair bit of work on the castings for it to pass muster. I'll also be using the Quickboost prop set as I want to model it with #1 engine loitered (propeller feathered in flight). First step - strip with oven cleaner: It took a few goes and some resorting to the more-toxic-but-more-effective caustic stuff but it all came off eventually! The Lincoln at the bottom is not being stripped - it was in the hangar for a tailwheel repair! Some bits broke off but I'm not concerned as they're being replaced anyway. The sonobouy launcher section and all the pylons were then removed and the small galley/rest area windows, which had clouded over, popped out. I've made a plastic sleeve like the one I made for the USS Enterprise from plastic stock on Ray Seppala's suggestion. It'll go inside the fuselage to take the brass stand before I fit the replacement belly section. Lots of surgery required on the #2 and #3 engine fairings for the EWPS resin bits, the nose for the IRDS bits and wingtip replacements. Then it'll be time for some seam sealing...
  2. My First Chopper! - Hasegawa UH-1J Iroquois 1:72 Never built a chopper before - time to change that! I acquired a second hand Hasegawa UH and noticed this GB, thought it would be perfect place to do some helicopter modelling for the fist time. This is the kit. Contents of the box - some of the parts had been cut off... ... and there was some paint - but I think we can safely assure it's still under the 25% rule Details are looking bit rough-ish. Decals seem past their prime - let's see if we can whiten them up with the help of the sun. Small metal rods were included within the box - I can't find any mention about them in the instructions? Are they perhaps something that the previous owner has added to the box or are they original contents of the box? They kinda look that they could be used for the antennas for the Japanese version. Speaking of versions- the japanese one is looking pretty cool with the interesting camo job. But then again, the US one is looking quite sharp too with the white sides. What do you reckon - which one should I build?
  3. Evening all, Here is my finished F-22 Raptor in 1/48 from Hasegawa. This was my first experience with Hasegawa and I am very impressed! That said, I did add a few details, mostly to the cockpit - all of this is in my WIP thread: Here is the finished build: Some detail photos of the cockpit: Thanks for looking!
  4. Hello all, Here is my recently completed 1/72 Hasegawa Lancaster B.1 Special. On the 19th March 1945, PB996, YZ-C, was piloted by Flying Officer Phil Martin, DFC and bar, on an operation to destroy the Arnsberg Viaduct in Germany. Dropped from 12,000 feet, the 22000lb Grand Slam bomb impacted the Western end of the viaduct, along with four Tallboys, causing it to collapse. Extras used included Eduard interior etch, Eduard canopy mask and AML camouflage masks. Paints are a mixture of MRP for the upper surfaces and Tamiya 'Nato Black' for the undersides. The build thread is here A picture of the real thing to start: My effort: Beside my other two 617 Squadron 'Specials': Thanks for looking. Dave
  5. More than 20 years after finishing my last model I felt I wanted to try out some modelling again! Last time I was "active" was in 1999-2000 or so, when I moved out from my parents house. Out of my old builds nothing is left except for some photos, but I recall some fun builds like the revell F101-B Voodoo in 1:72 and the Airfix S A Bulldog in the same scale, and of course also the Airfix Bf109 in 1:24. So, after many years I want to get off where I left and as a start I will try out with something rather easy where I can focus on trying out some new techniques. This turned out to be the Hasegawa P-47D in 1:48, so here we go! I started this build already in january 2020 but it was first now I decided to publish a build log of it - for this reason not all steps have been documented. The pace has not been the most rapid one, but I will drop some posts on the current progress and hopefully things will move faster now when I have the tools etc in place. The first thing I did was to replace the exhausts in the front with new ones that I made from beer can aluminium. The parts provided in the kit (seen on top of the exhausts in the photo) were not too convincing. The new ones were somewhat better even if the openings in the end felt a little too large. The rear (intercooler?) openings were good in shape but of course too thick as they are moulded parts. I considered removing them and replace them with brass, aluminium or crash moulded / vac formed plastic sheet, but in the end it turned out I could just carve them out and still get a decent result.
  6. Now that my USS Olympia build is winding down it's time for an airplane again. I grew up close to a Norwegian Air Force base housing the RNoAF 333sqdn P-3s, Hence I've always had a strong affinity for this plane. On Sep 13th 1987 one of the units P-3s collided with an Su-27 Flanker. This P-3 will be the subject of this build. The plane The incident as depicted on the boxart for a Trumpeter Flanker, incidentally my next build to join the P-3 on the shelf... The kit Got some aftermarket sets to add some detail. Planning on the plane being parked with the rear entry door closed but ladder attached, flaps down and bomb bay doors open. In addition I plan on recreating the damage to the props. I'll have the affected prop feathered with the engine covers open. Since I'm not planning on using the rear interior I'll use seats in the CMR set up in the cockpit instead. Well, at least all that is the plan...we'll see how it actually turns out. Ken
  7. Hello Everyone, Originally I was going to build either the 1/72 Revell Hind-D, F-4U Corsair or Hawker Tempest for this build as I remember how badyly I made them when I was a kid (around 12-13). However then going over the rules, I saw a little bit that a kid is defined as anything before 18 years old and if an older kit was going to be refurbed there was no 25% minimum rule. As I have been repairing/finishing failed GB kits during all these fun and games, I was going to look at the Valkyrie next and this fits the bill as far as I can tell? So onto the story. In December 2000 I started work at the local Safeways Supermarket. As my birthday is late in July, I was one of those unique few that legally left school at 15, so I was always on the young side. Anyhow, I remember buying lots of useless and unneeded stuff with my new found wealth - who doesn't at that age?! I remember finding a new website called "HobbyLink Japan" that would send over model kits from Japan? Result! I remember ordering a few Gundams (Ex-S, GP-03, Double X) and a Super Valkyrie from the Macross series of films/tv shows. I had gotten back into the Anime circles just after school and was enjoying everything I could download on this new technology called "broadband"... kids today will never know the pain of waiting for an MP3 file to download via DC++/IRC (before Napster was even thought of!) on a dial-up modem. I remember watching the Macross series way back when I was a nipper (not Robotech) it was a fansub on VHS that a guy in the street had managed to get. I also remember it being the first "cartoon" I had seen where one of the main characters actually die... that was shock to a young kid in the 80's. Anyhow, back to the model. The Gundam's I built (rather poorly) and where proudly displayed on my shelf as they could be built in an afternoon, however this Hasegawa model was different. It needed to be built like the old Revell/Airfix kits I used to build as a kid. So I dug out all of my old gear and started to build it. Lets just was the desired result was never acheived and the kit was thrown up in the loft for the next ten or so years. Then I met my ex-girlfriends father and he was into wargaming - I remember seeing him paint two Baneblades (from Warhammer 40k) and thinking they where cool, said about the Valkyrie and he said he would look at it. Well things didn't work out between me and that girlfriend and that was that as they say but I did look at the kit again and tried a few bits more with worse results - kit boxed back up and thrown in the loft. 11 years ago I met my current girlfriend and one day we was walking around Lakeside when I saw a shop called "ModelZone". I had a look in there and saw lots of kits on display (I really do miss that shop) and was interested in the Valkyrie again - I may or maynot have seen a Valkyrie in there, I really am not sure. I said to my girlfriend that I was a geek and wanted to get some bits and pieces. I remember buying a Revell 1/72 TA-152 and Revell 1/76 Comet MBT - they came out okay. But my girlfriend surprised me by saying she was okay with my hobby and has supported me with this every chance she could. Fast forward a few years and I am making model kits full on as my main hobby. I take a look at the Valkyrie again and decide to have a crack at it again, I take it apart as best as I can (badly) and then just prime the main parts. Didn't like the kit so threw it back in the box on the shelf. I now have a few Valkyrie kit's in my possession (I think about 8) but none of them are completed as of yet. So I have decided to get this one finished as it has plagued me for near on 20 years now. I hope it is okay to get this kit added to this GB? If not just say and I will probably build the Hind-D (which was going to be done after the Valkyrie anyhow. Picture time! The box art in all of it's glory. You have got to admit that the drawing is very cool and nothing like the finished article that I produced! The parts as you can see where a complete mess. I have squashed one of the leg fastpacks. I have also ruined one of the wings. I have lost a missile pod as well. I am going to see how much I can build with just the bits I have here. Other random bits and bobs. I also have the weapon set for the Valkyries as well so I could bomb up the aircraft. A Macross stand as well! This is turning into 3 kits in one thread! The decals for the main kit and the weapon set. Both have survived the last 20 years relatively intact. As you can see I have alread used some of the decals already. With no idea why, I used the decals for Hayao Kakizaki's aircraft. I probably liked the green, only answer I can think of why. But this time I will use the decals of the main protagonist - Hikaru Ichijyo (the red ones). I have used the cockpit decal, but that is completely destroyed. I have a back up decal I can use. I got this a while ago for another kit, but would work well here also. I will see how things go. I may steal the decal out of the kit these where intending to go to. What everything should look like when I have finished but with rockets and reactor bombs on the wings. The some of the load outs you can have on the kit. For the people wondering how did that thing ever get off the ground, the simple answer is... it didn't need to. It was launched from the SDF-1 Macross while in space where take off weight isn't a problem. This is the kit that the PE was purchased for. If I really need to, I can steal parts from this kit but I really do not want to. I will scratch build as and where I can. This should be fun... wish me luck! Kind Regards, Dazz
  8. My entry for this groupbuild will be Hasegawa's MV-22B Osprey. I have been fascinated by this aircraft since I first saw one, especially the way it folds its wings/rotors for storage. So ambitiously I am going to try and build it in the folder configuration. Haven't been able to find a kit that offers this, barr some 1/350 offerings. Also haven't managed to find a builr example on the inlet. My googling however suggest that the Hasegawa kit might be the best option to start with. To help I have purchased some resin to help the build.
  9. Next off the self is the very old (maybe original?) boxing of the Hasegawa P-2H Neptune. I've washed the sprues and resin bits. Here they are drying amongst the Scout WIP. Soon to be joined by the Eduard bomb bay and general detail kits, the Aeroclub props and landing gear and PD Decals, amongst others. Not too many plastic parts but heaps of resin and etch. Lots of rescribing to do as everything is raised detail. I'll paint everything this week when the wife goes back to work as she hates the smell of enamel paint through the house!
  10. After 2019 (link)newsletters, the Hasegawa news for January 2020. Source: http://www.hasegawa-model.co.jp/month/202001/ V.P.
  11. Hello all, After building a Lancaster with 'Upkeep' and a Lancaster with 'Tallboy', there's one missing (I'm sure you can guess where this is going), so here it is- Lancaster B.1 Special of 617 Squadron fitted with the monster 22,000lb 'Grand Slam' bomb. On the 19th March 1945, PB996, YZ-C, was piloted by Flying Officer Phil Martin, DFC and bar, on an operation to destroy the Arnsberg Viaduct in Germany. Dropped from 12,000 feet, the bomb impacted the Western end of the viaduct, along with four Tallboys, causing it to collapse. Kit: Extras: Will be using an AML paint mask (it's designed for Airfix kits but fits the Hasegawa kits too), Eduard canopy mask and interior etch. Marking options: The real thing in action, 19th March, 1945: From what I can gather, the only part of the kit that needs altered is the removal of 2 of the 4 rear .303 machine guns, as one of my references has stated that, amongst several other modifications for the carrying of the Grand Slam, the number of guns was reduced to 2 as a weight saving measure. Any other advice from those in the know would be most helpful! Should get a start once I clear the Su-33 from the bench and make some progress on a Spitfire. Cheers Dave
  12. Hi all, Thought that I would share some pics with you all of one of my latest completed models. Built as part of the ongoing (and excellent) Corsair STGB it is Hasegawa's 1/48 F4U-5NL built as an aircraft operated by the Argentine Navy during their 1963 (unsuccessful) revolt against their government. Still a nice kit to build despite getting on a bit it does have a few issues but nothing drastic. I used an old set of FCM decals and they performed very well indeed and certainly seem to be accurate to the pictures I have seen. Enough waffle here are the pictures; Thanks for looking and as usual all comments and criticisms are gratefully received, and for those of you wanting to see any more here is a link to the WIP. Craig.
  13. Here's my second build for the Group Build. I'm doing a 1/48 Hasegawa Ki-84 Hayate. This is one of the finest Hasegawa kits I've ever done. A nicely detailed cockpit, very fine surface details, excellent fit so far. Even the kit decals look nice, although I won't be using them. I got two aftermarket sheets for it, one from Berna and one from Rising Decals, both with some options that fit the time period of this GB. I am taking some guess work with the cockpit color, as it turns out they had probably three different colours, depending on when they were built. Aotake (that metallic blue-ish stuff) on early ones, a dark green on middle ones, and natural metal on late ones. As I have no idea when mine was built, I decided to go with the green colour, and pretend it is correct. Nobody will notice it anyway. I used Tamiya's Japanese Army Green for it. The seat (not fitted yet) comes with a comfy looking cushion, which isn't correct, but I'll just leave it on. This thing must have been an ergonomic nightmare, as there are levers and controls everywhere, even the guns stick out the firewall in front of the instrument panel, just like the A6M.
  14. SBS cockpit and Eduard undercarriage bay. MRP paint. Mix of decals from various sheets.
  15. It is straight out of the box with only SBS seat. Hasegawa has made a Frankenstein out of the molds. Many panels need to be filled. What I have found online and in various books is that the early series, especially I and II, have the same panels on the wings as the Macchi 200, without machine guns and no access hatches for them. I filled all the access hatches and removed the machine guns. Painted with MRP Paint and decals from the Eduard kit.
  16. It seems appropriate for this to be the third in a series as my first 'Stash Clearance' was the Kawanishi N1K1,‘George’, the landbased fighter developed from this aircraft and the second 'Stash Clearance' the Nakajima A6M2-N, 'Rufe’, a float plane. From Scalemates, this is the original boxing from 1996. There were 3 boxings of the type. The 'Early' and 'Late' models distinguished by their engines and the prototype with 2, 2-blade contra rotating propellers. This is the 'Late' version. Typical Hasegawa fare of the time, accurate, easy to build, good fit and not many parts. Interior detail is basic as are the decals. The model is OOB with only the addition of Tamiya tape harness and Uschi thread for aerial wire. Colours are from the White Ensign range (now Colourcoats, by Jamie@Sovereign Hobbies, although having checked yesterday some of these colours don’t appear in the current range) Those used were ACJ-10 Kawanishi Green, ACJ-04 Nakajima Interior Grey-Green and ACJ-12 Undersurface Grey Green. The carriage was gunmetal Hu27004+drybrushed Hu.11. I would have tried clear wood grain decal if I had had any but I remembered that I had a tin of Hu.110 'Wood' so used that. Wheels had Revell 83 Rust drybrushed and Revell Anthracite for tyres. Finally, Tamiya Weathering Powders were rubbed on and Matt Aluminium drybrushed with a cut down brush to show wear on the paintwork. Hu.33/21/60/27002 were used for details as well as Humbrol Clear Red and Tamiya Clear Blue Decals are from the kit, which has just one option, for an aircraft from the ‘Sasebo Naval Flying Group’. I did the canopy frames by hand as my attempts at using decal strip before had not been v successful. I figured the inevitable shakiness was worth putting up with to save the time and hassle for a not very much better result. (Note to self: next time ordering from the Lowestoft emporium get clear decal sheet as well as the wood grain decal referred to earlier.) Like the ‘George’ and ‘Rufe’ its USP was badly done. In this case, the float assembly did not fit at all well and because of its position it was not easy to fill or sand the join. Further, its pegs into the underside were barbed so once pushed home it couldn't be withdrawn. Other observations: 1. I solved the ill fitting canopy problems I’d had in other builds by cementing with ultra thin polystyrene cement using capillary action early in the process rather than adding it at the end with Kristal Kleer when it would be fragile and prone to popping off. In that way I could sand and file it like the rest of the plastic. 2. Ladder colours are too garish and I should have used v dark grey and v light grey. The ladder itself is crude and overscale as it is in plastic, etch would have been better. 3. Prop blades had only 1 coat of aluminium when they should have had two. Also, I’m not convinced they’re at 120 degrees to each other despite Hasegawa’s efforts to make fixing them at the right angle foolproof. 4. Had to use pencil lines for underside panels as sanding had made a lot too shallow for washes. 5. Float has a weight of solid plastic included in the kit. It works surprisingly well. 6. Tailplanes are handed. 7. I didn’t work out what the float stripes were for until the very end so, eg, didn’t line them up with the trolley posts. They’re not too bad as is but even so.... 8. Navigation lights are not delineated on the wings and so were positioned on a ‘best guess’ basis as I couldn’t work it out from period reference photos either. Furthermore, fuselage lights other than the tail light were not mentioned in the Instructions nor shown on the box picture nor could I see them on photos so they were left out. 9. Cockpit is poorly detailed to such a degree that what there is, is entirely fictional save for the instrument panel. 10. The weathering isn't great. The maxim 'less is more' should read in this case 'less is less'. To my eye the exhaust staining is barely noticeable and the stippled matt aluminium on the fuselage sides and wing tops looks very artificial. It would have looked much better if I had put more on. Still, delicate balance and all that... Anyhoo, enough of my ramblings I’ll now attempt to post some pictures. This is the Wikipedia photo of the type and it's the aircraft the decals represent. It's for you to decide how close I got. The box and instructions are shown below. 1/4
  17. Hello Gents And Ladies, This is my 1st contrubition to Britmodeller. This is Revell boxed, hasegawa mould 1:48 F4U-7 kit finished as AU-1 (F4U-6)Korean war veteran. I used a pair of Kont Eduard's seatbelts, Printscale decals. Process still goes on, I hope you like it.
  18. This is the Hasegawa P-3C Orion converted to a P-3B of the Argentinian Navy. I modified it to a B model by removing the sonbuoy tubes and updating the antenna config consistent with the prototype. The HF wire antenna lines are EziLIne. I also rescribed the model. It is painted mainly in Gunze acrylics and SMS metallics and decalled with the DekLs sheet (the reverse type).
  19. Hi there I wanted to build a B-17 that did not have heavy panel lines like Revell and Airfix provide, or have to worry about shimmining the wings of a NMF build that is needed for the Academy set. My cunning plan was to buy the Hasegawa kit and re-scribe it. Here is the kit with the KitsWorld decals to be used. The cunning plan fell apart as soon as I got the parts out of the plastic bag. Even though Hasegawa have been selling this kit for years with my preferred marking scheme, the kit comes with staggered waist gun positions which came after Miss Lace left the factory. So, plan B was mark the position for a new window using the raised panel lines as reference. This was cut and the old opening filled in. That looked good until the 2 fuselage halves were lined up. The windows did not match. Someone in the Hasegawa factory did someting right with this kit as the raised panel lines do fit the staggered waist windows. It just so happens that the panel lines are different from one side to the other. Time for Plan C, move the window again, here it is. Now the windows line up better in plan view. One really positive surprise with this kit is how well the wings join the fuselage, no putty expected here but some needed to fill the sink marks. More pics in a few days after the window story is complete and the intercooler and oil cooler inlets are boxed in to the wings. Regards Toby
  20. Well time to let the glue follow the posts and start with my entry for this GB. I will be building the AH-1 Cobra Kisarazu Special 2012/2013 double kit with a flamboyant livery depicting two of the four Kisarazu sisters (anime girl mascots of the 4th ATHS). So without further ado: the obligatory box shot: Here are some more shots of the sprues (of course there are two sets of those in the kit): A close-up of the decals - the highlight of the kit: While the artwork was originally placed only on one side of the choppers, I intend to decal the right hand side of the cobras as well - because I can And now for the extras: Cockpit masks and the cannon which I may or may not replace: I also got the right colors! This is my first brush (excuse the pun) with Tamyia colors, so I hope all goes well with the thinning (I probably will airbrush the models, but then again looking at the camouflage pattern I am not sure the hairy sit wouldn't be faster & easier. The kit itself seems to be fairly straight-forward (famous last words!). At least there won't be many issues with the landing gear Wish me luck and watch this space.
  21. Spitfire Mk. VIII | 1/72 | Hasegawa No. 155 Squadron, Royal Air Force, Burma, 1945 I finished this on 7/18/2020. A straightforward build, however I used some spare parts from my Eduard Mk.IX builds to improve the cockpit (which may have been a waste of time with a closed canopy), and provide better looking landing gears and gear doors. In general the Hasegawa kit has nice external detail and went together fairly easily (although I had to put a little more work than usual into getting the nose seams to look good). My only gripe with the kit is this: I was warned by someone that the Hasagawa Mk. VIII, was "too small" in the back, which I mis-interpreted as "too short". Matching it to an un-built Eduard Mk. IX, I found that, if the fuselages are lined up at the back of the canopy, then both the tail and nose are about 1 mm too short. Not very noticeable. However, I think "too small" meant that the area just forward of the empennage is too thin (from bottom to top). It looks more spindly just forward of the tail than the Eduard kits on my shelf. I tried to mimic the dusty conditions I saw in some photos of 155 sqn. aircraft by using white oil paint rubbed into the gloss coat (post decals). My experience is that this oil paint will become very light when dry, but will darken again with the application of dull coat. Unfortunately, it darkened too much so it was not very noticeable, so I misted the surface in spots with a Mr. Color tan. It actually looks better in the pictures than in real life! This kit is actually a replacement for the terrible Starfix Mk. XIV I made a few years ago. I really like the SEAC scheme, so I chose this kit, to replace the Starfix one. I will be re-doing Ginger Lacey's Mk. XIV mount (Correctly) using the Sword 1/72 kit. Paint: Mr. Surfacer 1500 black decanted into airbrush > Hataka RAF Dark Earth / Ocean Gray / medium Sea Gray > Testor's "Deep Yellow" > Mr. Color 311 (FS36622) for spinner and theater stripes > Alclad Aqua Gloss (pre-decal) > Mr. Color GX113 dullcoat (post-decal) Decals: Kit decals plus leftover Eduard stencils Aftermarket: Eduard steel seatbelts No WIP for this one. Here's a comparison of the instrument panels: Hasagawa in the center, un-altered Eduard on the right, and the Eduard one I modified to use on the left: Eduard's part behind seat looked better than Hasegawa's so I modified it and used it (Hasegawa on the right): Here's the cockpit all finished: And I scratch built the rod that extends from the back of the seat: Thanks for looking! Questions, comments and constructive criticism always welcomed.
  22. So with two helicopters finished today I was inspired by @Bell209 (Rob) to try and finished off yet another P-3 that had been sitting next to the bench for some time (so I could start another down the track ), I started it back in October 2016. Its the one on the left in this shot (yes I have more than one P-3 variant waiting to be finished!). AS you can see it was well advance, I even went tot eh trouble of rescribing it. I stalled on the masking as I usually do. And here it is tonight after some attention, the clear parts masked (yeah!) Gear doors fitted and pitot probes and weapon bay vent mast also added. I need to check refs to see if any other protrusions need to be added prior to a trip to the paint shop. These are the decals I am using.
  23. I've just finished this pair, the Hasegawa Ki-46 Dinah, representing two aircraft of the 18th Dokuritsu Hiko Chutai based in China in 1943 and 1944 respectively. The kit was quite a straightforward build and I don't recall having any particular issues with it - a rambling build thread is here if you need a step-by-step account. Additional bits and pieces used were Eduard's microfabric seatbelts and canopy masks, Maketar Hinomaru/Meatball masks for the national markings and a bit of EZ-line for the antenna wire on the Ki-46-II. Paints used were Sovereign Colourcoats for all the main colours (they are listed in detail in the build thread) and various acrylics for the detail painting. The varnish coat was Windsor and Newton Galeria matt varnish cut with IPA. The kit transfers provided the tiger markings for the tails and functioned satisfactorily though not brilliantly; the legendary qualities of Hasegawa decals were one of the motivators for using the Maketar masks to paint the national markings. I'd like to record once more my gratitude to Nick Millman who in addition to the information provided on his blog patiently answered my questions and without whose suggestions and advice I would not be as happy with the end result as I am now. Speaking of which - and enough speaking - here they are, first the Ki-46-II: ... and the Ki-46-III Thanks for your indulgence gents Cheers, Stew
  24. So, seeing as the lockdown and social isolation continues, i thought i would grab another box down off the shelf to occupy my evenings. As the titla and tags suggest it is the Subaru Impreza Sports Wagon WRX in 1/24 from Hasegawa. A nice little curbside kit that should go together well. The mouldings lok crisp with minimal cleanup looking to be required. There are a few parts in the box not required as it looks like some Impreza sprues with the Wagon stuff added on top, so the kit bash spares box continues to grow. Included are some window masks for the clear parts which is a welcome touch. This should be another fairly quick build i hope sue to the time avaialble, but i'm still undecided on colours. Any suggestions are welcomed of course. The carpet is likely to be getting flocked in a charcoal/anthracite, but the rest is currently up for the vote. Maybe even some homemade decals are an option (Possibly) Here is the box art and the first load of parts enjoying a coat of primer. Thanks for looking, Coops
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