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Found 36 results

  1. WWII German Infantry (A00705) 1:76 Airfix Although my childhood association with Airfix is rooted in scale model aircraft, there are many who grew up playing with their famous range of plastic soldiers and tanks. Now you can re-create the childhood adventures of Helmut and his mates, courtesy of the new Vintage Classics range. Inside the compact box you get six frames of figures, most of which are attached via the built-in base. This should give you a clue as to the market these figures were originally pitched at. Not for the hallowed halls of Telford were these soldiers. No, they were destined to slog it out with Tommy Atkins on the floors of bedrooms up and down post-war Britain. The large range of different poses include crawling/prone soldiers, as well as some crouching or standing and firing weapons. Also in the box are some machine gun and flame thrower crews, as well as some who are just standing around doing nothing. The quality of moulding is nothing remarkable, but that won't stop these little fellows evoking a smile from even the most stone-hearted of nostalgic modellers Conclusion These figures don't compare to modern offerings, but they are as cheap as chips and you get loads in the box. If you want to introduce a younger audience to the world of scale modelling, or even stick them at the back of a diorama, these figures can still do a job in 2019. Review sample courtesy of
  2. This is my build of the Hobby Boss SMS Seydlitz. For Some reason this kit has largely been ignored by the aftermarket manufacturers. There is now an imminent release of a full detail upgrade set from Infini, but this was not available at the time I started this build. A a result this is almost a straight box build with Infini mast replacements and the gorgeous Scaledecks laminate decks. An unusual looking ship, and that was the attraction along with the prominent red rear funnel. This is a selection of pictures of the build so far... [ Jase
  3. Hi guys This is quite an interesting subject by Takom that surprised us all. It just goes to show the vast range of kits and subjects available now. I bet most people never would have thought they would see a kit of this ever be made. Personally It's not my usual build but unusual enough to grab my attention. I have been working on it on and off for a while now. Quite a nice kit but a bit laborious to build. This is down to most of the bits being duplicated to cover both guns and a slight mould misalignment meaning the parts clean up is taking longer than it should. I can finally see the light at the end of the building tunnel though. IMAG0475 by Mark Inman, on Flickr IMAG0478 by Mark Inman, on Flickr IMAG0479 by Mark Inman, on Flickr IMAG0480 by Mark Inman, on Flickr IMAG0481 by Mark Inman, on Flickr IMAG0482 by Mark Inman, on Flickr IMAG0483 by Mark Inman, on Flickr IMAG0484 by Mark Inman, on Flickr IMAG0485 by Mark Inman, on Flickr IMAG1166 by Mark Inman, on Flickr IMAG1167 by Mark Inman, on Flickr IMAG1168 by Mark Inman, on Flickr IMAG1169 by Mark Inman, on Flickr IMAG1170 by Mark Inman, on Flickr IMAG1171 by Mark Inman, on Flickr
  4. This is Miniart's new FL 282 V-6 Kolibri (Hummingbird). A very nice, albeit extremely fiddly kit to put together. It's also an incurable tailsitter, with nowhere much to add any weight up front, which is why it's on a base (pinned via the nose wheel). The kit's very well detailed and, as far as I can tell, pretty accurate. It's a straight OOB build apart from the seat harness, where the PE belts supplied with the kit were substituted for some HGW fabric ones. Thanks for looking Andy
  5. Hi friends, i just finished the fig of the crew who came with the Voroshilovets see here: painted with acrylics
  6. 1/35 Valkyrie German tank crewman. Constructed and painted, ready for my Meng Leopard 2a4 (which has yet to be started :-) ). Painted with vallejo acrylics (uniform) and AK (flesh).
  7. This will eventually go in to a diorama with my SU-85 Recently finished. Thanks for looking. Please comment steve
  8. Hello all somewhat a newbie to BM. Newbie to WW1 aircraft other than the basics. Im trying to add to my overall Collection of builds/kits/Stash. I have a Sopwith Camel in 1/72nd and am planning on adding the following types. Id like to keep them same scale for display purposes. I would love to do these kits from WNW but im on a seriously restrictive budget financially and storage wise. I guess what im looking for is help completing the following list. 1. Sopwith pup 2. Sopwith Triplane 3. Nieuport ( not sure of variants ) 4. Spad ( again not sure of variants ) 5. Fokker Dr.1 ( Triplane correct?) 6. Fokker D.VII ( Biplane ?) 7. Fokker Eindecker (monowing?) 8. Albatross D.III 9. Albatross D.5 10. Pfalz (not sure of variants) I hope thats a good start as im just starting out. These will be built along with other types in my stash as time unfolds and as i think i can get to them. But am looking at eduard kits for most of them in this scale. Any how i hope and believe you gentleman are far wiser when it comes to this era. Thank you Dennis
  9. A pair of Modelcollect's E-100's, one with the Rheintochter SAM, and one with a V1. Apart from the respective missiles the two kits are identical, but the V-1 version actually includes the Rheintochter as unused parts so if you're buying one, you're better off getting that one. The kits are nice and very well detailed, but the rubber band tracks are a bit of a pain. They're made from something that looks suspiciously like Dragon DS plastic, so how well they'll last in the long term remains to be seen. The subjects are of course pure fantasy, although the Rheintochter is more of a viable possibility that the V1. Painted and weathered with AMMO paints and washes, apart from the red primer hull which was finished with Vallejo Cavalry Brown (see discussion here) Thanks for looking Andy
  10. This is Meng's new(ish) Leo 2A7, built OOB apart from the aerials which came from Leopard Workshop (set LW034). For me, it's one of Meng's best releases yet with great detail and, for the most part, perfect fit. There's a lot of PE in the kit, which almost makes it look like you've added an after market detail set to the build, but it all goes together without any problems. The only weak point in the kit is the piece of string that Meng always seem to include for the tow cable. I swapped that for some brass wire. Thanks for looking Andy
  11. Good afternoon. Does anyone know of any German pre-dreadnought battleships in 1/350? I don't mind if the kit is resin or plastic, I just want to know if there are any. Thank you.
  12. So my first armour RFI is here. Paints used were Tamiya and humbrol Matt coat for the varnish. Weathering included hairspray chipping on the muffler and various areas, and some oil paint that streaks were added in. I'd love to hear some feedback on this!
  13. STEEL Seatbelt Sets German WWI, British Late, IJN and Soviet 1:32 Eduard Eduard are continuing their build up of the steel seatbelt range with the release of these four sets. As we have found with the previously released sets, these are also pre-painted and appear to be remarkably flexible, and even with quite rough handling the paint adheres to the metal really well. They are still made from 0.1mm sheet with the resulting etch is thin at around 0.06mm and have the same details printed on them, such as the webbing, stitching, and shadowing. Unlike some sets, all the buckles and clasps are etched as part of the strapping, so there is no fiddly work required to assemble each belt. [32874 – IJN Fighters] – There are six complete sets of belts in total on the single sheet. There are two for Mitsubishi late war, two for Nakajima and two for Kawanishi aircraft. All the lap straps are included but it appears that only the Mitsubishi and Kawanishi aircraft that used a shoulder strap arrangement. [32875 – Soviet WWII Fighters] – There are four complete belts included on the single sheet. Two of the belts are for Yakovlev aircraft and two are for Lavochkin aircraft. The Yakovlev shoulder straps are joined at the top, whilst the Lavochkin are separate, The instructions are nie and clear which set to use. [32878 - Late RAF WWII] – This sheet contains three complete seatbelts, all in a beige colour and with separate lap straps. All three shoulder harnesses are of the same type, naturally, and I believe they are meant to attach to the armoured bulkhead. [32879 – German WWI ] – The single sheet in this set contains enough belts to fit out at least six aircraft, if I have counted them correctly. There are just two variations with shoulder straps, the rest being just lap straps. With these you can detail your Fokkers, Albatros CIII, Hanover CI.II and other multi seat types. Conclusion Whilst many modellers are able to make their own seatbelts if they are not happy with the kit items, even if they are included, there are those who like the ease of using these style belts. The pre-painted look is, perhaps a little clinical, although there is some shading around the straps and clasps, but they can be weathered to your own personal taste. Review sample courtesy of
  14. Hello all. Well, as they say, a picture paints a thousand words, and since I can't think of any words, I'll start with pictures..... Base plan with makeshift road... Probably use some sort of putty to smooth out cardboard. Thinking of putting PVA glue with fine sand for bitumen. I dunno how accurate that would be, but eh... With panther and figures for a test fit. Ground work will be painted a different colour, it was just left over from a desert base, so I used it More info on the panther will be posted when it is finished 100%, will be up in AFV RFI. The plan is to have a dead hedge behind the panther, some ruined building or equipment near the figures. Stuff I was going to use for a dead hedge. Dead grass btw. Stuff I was going to use a grass. Once removed of... err... 'impurities' I will have to apply it somehow.... hmm All for now, and thanks for looking
  15. SC 250 German WWII bombs 1:72 Eduard Brassin The SC250 or Sprengbombe Cylindrisch 250 was a German all purpose high explosive bomb. The bombs weight was 250 Kgs from which the designation refers to. Explosive content was normally 130 kgs of a TNT and amatol mix. The bombs from Eduard in their Brassin range features the bomb in resin, with the details in resin and proto etch. A small sheet of decals provides all the markings. Conclusion This should enhance any model of an aircraft which carries these bombs. Highly Recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  16. Hi guys, this is my first post. I got the idea from a Montex mask kit I saw on Ebay and utilised the masks and decals on the Revell kit and doctored their own decals for a tongue in cheek look. Great site and some stunning creations. Hope to post more of my collection soon, regards Siffo.
  17. VK 45.02 Vorne HobbyBoss 1/35 I wasn't originally going to do a wip for this build as I didn't have any clear idea as to how I was going to build it. I've had it sitting in the stash for a while now and decided I should get it done but I didn't really want to do the Panzer grey scheme from the box. As this is effectively a paper panzer, any operational scheme would be a what-if so most late war schemes would be usable, but I wanted to do something a bit different. I'd got it in mind to do miss-matched hull and turret colours to show something cobbled together at the end of the war but after flicking through a few old magazines, I saw a couple of builds done in a rusty raw steel finish and thought this would suit the angular hull and show off all the armour plate joints and weld beads. I'm still intending to do the turret in a different scheme, probably Dunkelgelb, maybe with a faded green ambush camo, and I'll be painting a few panels and other fittings in red primer but, for now, I've been concentrating on the lower hull. After the hull was built up, I filled the holes for the tool clamps although I will be fitting the brackets for the tow cable (this is meant to represent a part finished hull that's been left to rust in the corner of a workshop). I added a bit of texture to the hull plates with Mr Surfacer along with a few missing weld beads and the cables for the lights. I also had to raise the turret ring with a strip of plasticard as otherwise the turret sat too low and wouldn't fully rotate. The whole thing was then given a patchy coat of black mixed with a little X-22 clear to act as a combined primer, basecoat and pre-shade This was followed by a raw steel mix made up from Tamiya XF-16 aluminium, XF-19 sky grey, XF-69 NATO black and XF-82 ocean grey. After the shot was taken, I misted over thinned XF-54 dark sea grey to tone down the metallic look a bit. To start the weathering, I sponged on some Vallejo 907 pale grey blue to represent mill scale on the surface, followed by a heavy sponging of Lifecolor 701 dark rust shadow from their rust & dust set. I also thinned the dark rust to a wash and used it as a filter over some of the panels I then added lighter rust tones with the other colours from the Lifecolor set. These were mainly added as washes on a damp surface and allowed to run and pool More washes were added including some Vallejo colours. I'll continue to build up the tones with thin colour washes and I'll start to add in some dirt and dust. The tow cable brackets will be added later and painted in red primer as will the driver's vision slit. The front MG mount will, I think, be Dunkelgelb, which will look like a retro-fitted piece and help tie the hull and turret together. Andy
  18. ok - this will be my WIP for the 1/35 Italeria DEMAG D7 (Sd.K7Z 10/5) mounting a 50mm pak 38. Kit + eduard PE + Resin wheels (first time) looks nice in the box.... will be done a unknown German unit, Russia 1944 in Schwarzgrau/Dunkelb scheme..... photos to follow
  19. Hello everyone. This is my latest aircraft, the Heinkel 177 by Revell. I installed micro RC motors in it so the propellers can spin. You can check WIP on my blog http://gasperpodbregarminiatures.blogspot.si/, all in all, here is the finished result: I hope you guys like it. Cheers!
  20. Finished this evening, Revell's awesome Heinkel He-177 A-6/R-1 One of my favourite aircraft from WW2, i know it wasn't the resounding success that the Luftwaffe thought it would be but it looks epic and has always fascinated me since i was a child. The A-6 could be considered a prototype in that it was only developed as an armaments test aircraft for air to ground and anti-shipping missiles, while also allowing for different rear turret designs to be tested. I believe that im right in saying that only 6 test machines produced in this variant One of the most enjoyable builds i think I've ever had, its a fantastic kit with great details, everything fits, great decals and goes together without any real issues. Just noticed that i haven't put the wing light in... ah well, one last task then im done lol
  21. I'm usually a firm Cold War man (with a fair bit of modern), but recently I've been getting rather interested in the last days of the Reich and the aircraft that they were producing: I love the idea that while these apocalyptic battles were going on closer and closer to Berlin, Nazi scientists worked feverishly using untapped technologies to create devastating new superweapons to unleash on the allies...well, you get the idea! So I ended up buying the 1/72 kit of an aircraft that's actually been thrown into the limelight recently with the Zoukei-Mura 1/32 kit. It's been in my stash for a couple of months now but with halloween approaching, I thought that it would be a good time to build this undoubtedly sinister looking aircraft. Lovely box art showing the Go229 in action: Nicely detailed fuselage: Cockpit parts in place and given a quick blast of rattlecan Humbrol Dark Sea Grey Wings clamped and drying: Instrument panel painted and decaled: Seat basecoated in Tamiya XF-61 Dark Grey, painted in Vallejo Model Air American Blue, harness straps and headrest done in XF-60 Dark Yellow, buckles done in XF-56 Metallic Grey, then the whole thing washed in Citadel Devlan Mud Off camera, I also gave the cockpit area a wash and did the rails and picked out the details in Metallic Grey Until next time!
  22. Takom are following up their 21cm Krupp Morser with the 42cm 'Big Bertha' siege howitzer Andy
  23. This October AFV Club are releasing a great 1/35 Bussing NAG L4500A German Kfz 100 with a Bilstein 3T Plastic Model Kit to add to your collection. This great kit includes new injected crane parts, fantastic detailing and some precision photo-etch parts! Well worth a look! For full details, please see our newsletter here.
  24. Leopard 2A6/A6M 1:35 Revell The Leopard 2 is the successor to the earlier Leopard Main Battle Tank (MBT), and was developed in the 70s, entering service just before the turn of the decade. The original had a vertical turret front, while later editions had an improved angled armour applied to the front that gives the tank a more aggressive look and provides much better protection. It has all the trappings of a modern MBT, including stabilised main gun for firing on the move, thermal imaging and composite armour. The original Leopard 2 entered service in 1979, but has been through a number of upgrades through its service life and is currently at version 2A7+. The 2A6 is still current however, and likely to be so for some considerable time. It sports the Rheinmetall 120mm smoothbore gun and MG3 machine guns for close-in defence, and has the by-now familiar arrow-head front to the turret, as well as a number of more subtle upgrades that follow on from the 2A5. Sales of the Leopard 2 have been good overseas because of its reputation, and Canada, Turkey, Spain and most of the Nordic countries use it as well as many other smaller operators. The Kit The box is Revell's usual black end opening box with a painting of the Leopard wearing European camouflage while a disembodied head of a real leopard roars behind it. After the Puma's box art, I'm beginning to wonder whether they've hired a motorcycle airbrush artist to do their box top paintings. Inside are seven sprues in Revell's green styrene, which I wish they'd move away from personally. There are also four spruelets of wobbly black styrene/rubber, plus four runs of track in the same material, and a clear sheet of acetate that is marked as "window sheet" on the instructions. A short length of wire is taped to the instruction booklet, and the end is quite sharp – I managed to stab my finger tip when re-boxing this kit, so watch you don't shed any blood when handling it. The decal sheet is hidden away in the centre of the booklet, and is protected by a sheet of thin greaseproof paper. Looking past the dreary green styrene, the kit is clearly a modern tooling, and has some nice detail on the outer hull, including patches of anti-slip coating on the main surfaces. The large circular cooling fans on the rear decking are particularly nicely done as separate parts, and should look well once painted. The odd layout of the track could cause some problems however, as each track is made up from two halves that must be glued together before they can be added to the tank. The hull is built up from separate sides, which are held in alignment by two bulkheads that sit in the central are of the chassis. This should make construction a lot easier than wrangling lots of parts with no way of telling if you have the angles right. It would be wise to dry-fit the top of the hull to this assembly before the glue fully cures though, just in case any minor easement is required. After this, seven roadwheel axles are added to each side into keyed slots in the side of the hull, with additional drive and idler axles as well as extra suspension detail that is glued into place on the side of the hull. The roadhwheels are fitted to the axles in pairs, and have their rubber tyres moulded in place, as do the four return rollers on each side. The idler wheels are smaller than the roadwheels, and the drive sprockets are built from two separate parts each. If you have chosen to build the A6M variant, an additional applique armour part is added to the underside of the tank, which improves its mine resistance, hence the M designation. As mentioned earlier, the tracks are of the rubber-band type, although detail is nicely done, and if you can live with the curving of the tracks around the drive and idler wheels they should suffice perfectly well. Each length is made from two sections, which have a generous four-link overlap and two pins on each link to strengthen the join. They are supposed to be glued with ordinary plastic adhesive, and you are recommended to clamp them together and wait until they are properly cured before handling them. The pins protrude through the track pads on the outer face, so hiding them under the fenders and against the ground would be advisable once you have attached them to the vehicle, so that they don't show after painting. The rear bulkhead of the vehicle has a large radiator grille running along the full width, which is a little lacklustre, but should suffice for most purposes. Under it hang the two flexible mudguards that are made from the same plastic as the tracks, and various shackles, hitches, panels and the rear light clusters are added at this point. The top deck is supplied as a single part, and simply drops onto the lower hull, which should hopefully align neatly if you have been diligent with its construction. The two large cooling fan grilles are added, as is a small insert that must be specific to this version on the right side of the rear deck. Some pioneer tools are added to the rear deck, and the towing ropes are made up from flexible plastic rope attached to styrene towing eyes. If you're not happy with a moulding seam running down your tow-ropes, now would be the time to replace it with some braided wire from RB Model or similar. Moving to the glacis plate, spare track links plus the usual hitches and shackles are added, along with the front driving lights and the driver's hatch, which can be left to slide within the hull by careful gluing of the panel inserts to its front and rear. Whether this is worth the effort is moot, unless you plan on installing a driver figure into your Leopard. The fenders are integral to the top hull, and only the side-skirts need to be added. These are made from two basic parts on each side, with the thicker applique armour added over the front two roadwheels and idler, tipped by a triangular shaped block at the very front. The turret is a complex shape, and even the base is made up from three parts, onto which the main gun is built up. The barrel is supplied in two halves, split lengthwise, and has some nice moulded detail, so take care when cleaning up the seam. The barrel is tipped with a hollow muzzle, but this is a little shallow, so might be better drilled out once the glue is dry. The mantlet section that raises with the gun is built up around the large location pin, and this is then added to the underside of the turret, being locked in place by a pair of upstands that permit the barrel to raise and lower. The top of the turret is a larger single piece with only one panel in the rear right added along with the sighting system's lenses. This is added to the bottom of the turret, after which the side panels and bustle are added to complete the main part of the turret's construction. The side panels that bolster the armour of the turret's arrow-head shaped front are installed next, and here there are some quite significant sink-marks. Initially I suspected that they might be flexible panels, but from looking at photos of the real thing, they aren't, so will need filling until they are flat. This could be a bit tricky however, as there are bolt-heads moulded in that portray the mounting points for the applique armour. Once the main construction of the turret is complete, the various small parts are added, along with the two crew access hatches and additional sensors that festoon the commander's hatch. Both hatches have triple-layered doors that are laminated from separate parts, and they look ostensively the same, apart from the square cut-out on the gunner's hatch for the hinge. Triangular mesh baskets are installed on the angled rear corners of the bustle, and these styrene parts would be prime candidates for replacement by aftermarket mesh to give a more realistic appearance. The smoke grenade launchers are fitted to each side of the turret just forward of the baskets, and these are made up from individual barrels attached to a rail with supports moulded in. The gunner's MG3 is also added to the edge of his hatch, and you are told to heat up two 75mm lengths of wire before plunging them into the aerial mounts that were added earlier in the build. Whether super-glue would be a less dangerous option is up to you – just be careful you don't poke yourself with the wire at any stage. It hurts. The turret can then be added to the hull by twisting it into place to lock the wings under the turret-ring flange. A pair of rear-view mirrors are added to the front of the tank, and a small sensor is added to the recuperator bulge on the barrel in the final few steps, and the last part of the build is to decide whether to lock the barrel to the rear for transport, or leave it free with the transport-lock stowed between the two large fan grilles. The painting diagrams are included in the instruction booklet, and as there is only one scheme so far, this is given on the first page, consisting of bronze green, leather brown and tar black, or more correctly NATO green, brown and black. Four choices of markings are provided on the small decal sheet, as follows: 2.Zug/4. Kompanie/PzBtl 203, Augustdorf 1.Zug/3. Kompanie/PzBtl 203, Augustdorf 3.Zug/4. Kompanie/PzLehrBtl 93, Munster 1.Zug/4. Kompanie/PzLehrBtl 93, Munster The decals are in excellent register, have good colour density and minimal carrier film. Of note are the small scissor symbols printed next to some of the unit badges that are fixed to the rear baskets on the turret. This apparently means that you should cut the "paper picture" out an glue it to the baskets, which would result in a slightly unsatisfactory and likely wooly looking result. A better option would be to paint up some scrap styrene and apply the decals to that instead, glue the finished article to the turret baskets instead. Conclusion The Leopard 2 is an impressive and capable tank, and this kit is a good rendition of it on the whole. My only issue with it that will affect most modellers are those prominent sink-marks on the sides of the turret front, but I personally dislike rubber tracks and that dark green styrene that Revell continue to use - I promise I'll stop going on about it eventually, although I can't guarantee an exact date. Ignoring those gripes, and assuming you don't poke out an eye with the antennae, it should build up into an impressive model of this MBT, and with a little research and some scratch-building you could instead portray it as one of the many overseas operators - I would imagine that the Canadian machines would be quite an attractive option, as they loaned a number of them for service in the Middle East, and weren't allowed to make many modifications to them because they were expected to be handed back eventually. Recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
  25. Pilot Figures Ultracast 1:32 There are times when you’ve finished a model aircraft that then screams to be placed in a vignette or diorama. For that you may need a figure to give a bit of life. Ultracast have just released these two, one is rather restricted to a limited number of aircraft whereas the other is a bit more of a generic figure that could be used in all sorts of scenarios. Each of the cream resin figures is contained in a zip lock poly bag with a card header stapled to it. [54015] Actually designed for the Tamiya 1:32 Corsair kits, this figure of Gregory “Pappy” Boyington, but could equally be used in a 1:32 P-40 Warhawk of the Flying Tigers unit. The figure is in a seated position and is beautifully sculpted by Mike Good with a lot of detail that will need some very careful painting to make the most of. The figure is separated into torso, head, arms, legs and undone helmet strap. The torso is complete with seatbelts and life vest whilst the head is moulded with the helmet, plus goggles perched on top. The Arms are posed as to be holding he control column in the left hand and the throttles in the right. The face is very well done and does actually look like the real Congressional Medal of Honour holder as seen in the many pictures online. [54016] This figure is more generic, and therefore more versatile. Once again sculpted by Mike Good, and is of a German WWII fighter pilot form the mid to late period. In a standing pose the figure comes with torso and legs moulded together, but with separate arms and heads. I say heads as there is a choice of either one in flying helmet or one peaked cap. Rather un-pc these days, but fine for the period, the figure is shown smoking a cigarette, held in his right hand. The model also has a separate holster. Conclusion Ultracast figures are new to me, but from having a good look at them they really are top quality. Mike Good lives up to his name with some excellent sculpting of the masters. You really need to be up to speed with your figure painting though to give them the paint job they deserve. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
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