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Found 41 results

  1. I'm continuing my history of F1 in 1/20th scale but I skipped the 80's and went right to 1992. After the Tyrrell 003, which I don't think is the most beautiful F1 car, to what is my favourite F1 design of all time, the McLaren MP4/7. The overall shape is so pure - no extra winglets or aerodynamic furniture and one of the most iconic liveries of all time. This was built right out of the box with the exception of the tobacco decals which were the "Museum Collection" set that I ordered from Hobby Link Japan. The Marlboro part of the decals were fine, but the orange parts of the decals were way too light in my opinion. The Tamiya decals had the McLaren logo in the orange/red, so I ended up cutting down the McLaren chevron into the Marlboro flag shape to use alongside the cockpit. The kit went together pretty well for the most part, and I built this as a curbside as I won't be displaying it with the engine cover removed (see below). The engine is in there, but all in semi-gloss black. Issues I did have were mostly related to the side vents. Tamiya molded them as separate pieces, but I found it difficult to glue them in and get a consistent panel line all the way around, especially since you have to fill the edges along the bottom. I ended up pretty much filling the whole thing until the panel line was just visible, but when I cleared over the paint and the decals, it completely disappeared - it looks like one continuous piece instead of the changeable size vent insert that I believe they used that year. I used Tamiya masking tape for curves to paint the red sections and it worked pretty well, although there's a little bit of bleed in the pointy parts where the tape overlapped. Overall, Im happy with the result - just a few nitpicks that I hope I'll improve on with the next model - I'm jumping right up to 2017 with the Tamiya SF70H. I'll go back and fill in a few blanks like the 80's and 2000's after that one. I just got the Tamiya 1986 Williams FW11 that will look good next to this one. The paint is Tamiya white and a custom mix for the orange. After looking at 100 photos online that all looked different, I ended up just trying to match the colour of the original Tamiya decals. Clearcoat was again using Mr. Color GX100 with the levelling thinner although this time I thinned it to 1 part clear to 3 parts thinner. It flowed very nicely, but with the weather being quite cold, it took a while to fully cure. I ended up leaving some of the parts for 10 days before sanding and polishing. I also thought I'd share how I'm displaying the models so far. I've been building shadow boxes out of poplar and then mounting the cars vertically in the frame. I created some graphic panels to sit behind the model with a large year displayed. At the bottom, a technical panel has the manufacturer logo, driver name, car dimensions, engine type and output etc. I thought it was a cool way to see the visual differences in the cars from decade to decade, and to see the changing overall sizes and engine output over time as well. I also like the way they feel like scientific specimens preserved for future generations to learn about. Thanks for looking, comments and critiques always welcome. Martin.
  2. I was going to call this "Second Build in 15 years" but I'll let that one go. This is me carrying on with a history of F1 in 1/20th scale. I built the Tamiya 1965 Honda RA272 and even though this is only 6 years on, the differences from 1965 to 1971 are pretty amazing. This is the Ebbro Tyrrell 003 kit and is the first Ebbro kit I've built. Overall, I was very impressed. I think the level of detail and crispness of molding rival or surpass Tamiya. I'll admit that the reason I chose this one over the Sports nose model was the very finely crafted mirror mounts which I think look great on the finished model. I don't think this is the most attractive F1 car ever, but I do appreciate the function over form aesthetic of the nose in particular. I built this pretty much out of the box with the only additions being some Model Factory Hiro brown hose for the fuel lines and black wire for the spark plug leads, As well as a Tamiya seat belt kit to replace the inadequate decal that came with the kit. I would say however, that the Tamiya seat belt kit has nice photoetched hardware, but the adhesive vinyl belt materials leave something to be desired. My only complaints about the Ebbro kit would be that compared to Tamiya, it was a bit more fiddly to assemble. I think Tamiya does a good job of making the parts fit together in a very solid way. With this kit, the pieces fit, but there was a lot of glueing and clamping or holding in place because the pins were so small that they didn't align the parts very firmly. I recognize that this is probably the nature of trying to keep everything in scale and as separate pieces. These separate pieces include the headers which are molded as four separate pipes per side - again, a bit fiddly to assemble, but can't be beat for accurate appearance. That's usually my biggest gripe with Tamiya is that pieces are often molded together to make for easier assembly but this often results in a lot of masking if you're trying to airbrush separate colours onto the same part. My complaints must be pretty minor though as I've already bought the Ebbro Lotus 72C and the Lotus 72E. Must finish the MP4/7 first though. A few details on finishes, the blue is just straight Tamiya blue acrylic. I applied the decals and then clearcoated with Mr Color GX100 thinned with their levelling thinner. This is the best clear I've ever used. I tried the Tamiya X22 clear on the Honda and it was okay, but the GX100 was shiny right out of the airbrush, dry to the touch in 10 minutes and polished up very nicely. It did get under one of the decals, I'm guessing that my mist coats weren't heavy enough to actually protect the decals before I did the wet coat but I think this is going to be my clearcoat system moving forward. I've just clearcoated the MP4/7 and it came out better than this one and with no adverse effects on the decals after going a bit heavier with the mist coats. Anyway, thanks for looking, and I've added a few more shots below. Martin.
  3. Well, I'm back into scale models for the first time in 15 years and I've found it very meditative to sit in a quiet space and slowly work through the pieces and painting - a nice break from a busy work and family life. I had an idea to do a scale model history of Formula 1 in 1:20 scale as there are so many models available to cover the history of engineering and design. I've started with the Tamiya RA272 as I got it for a good price and seemed like it would be a good place to start. Built pretty much out of the box and sprayed with a custom mix for the racing white and then topcoated with Tamiya X22 clear. I want to improve my skills and finished models so please feel free to comment on any tips/tricks/suggestions that you think might help.
  4. 25th Anniversary "Benetton Ford B194" (05689) 1:24 Revell The Benetton Ford B194 was designed by Rory Byrne for the 1994 F1 season. It was based on the previous B192/3 and was to be powered by a Ford Zetec-R V8 engine produced by Cosworth. The car was very good in the hands of Michael Schumacher who won six of the first races that year. Schumacher commented that the car was hard to drive, and his team mates that season all found it very difficult to drive. Other teams suspected the car was not entirely legal due to its performance. During an investigation by the FIA launch control (which had been banned) was found in the cars software but there was no proof it had been used and the investigation was dropped. The Kit This is a re-release of Revell's 1995 re-released as its now 25 years on from the 1994 season, the kit comes in a bright green plastic presumably in order that it can be built without painting the car if needed, though it is not easy on the eyes! There is a also a set of paints & glue + a fold out A2 poster of the car in the box. Its worth noting that Revell are donating Euro 2.50 per kit sold to the Keep Fighting Foundation. Keep Fighting is a non-profit initiative that is celebrating the attitudes to “Keep Fighting” and “Never Give Up” which are directly inspired by Michael Schumacher. The Foundation is registered in Germany and operates globally through its projects. We have placed a link at the end of the review for people who would like to know more about the foundation. The build starts with the rear subframe/engine area. The engine and frame is added to the rear suspension mounts and the exhausts are added on. The rear axles are added along with their brakes. Then the rest of the engine is built up, with the suspension components being added. This sub assembly can then be mounted into the floor pan. Next up the radiators are assembled. Following this the rear spoiler is also built up. The spoiler and the radiators are then installed on the floor pan as well. We now move to the front top body of the car. The drivers head rest is added in and the front top half of the suspension is added. We then move to the front lower parts. The rest of the front suspension is built up and added along with the drivers tub, dash and steering wheel. The top and lower can then be joined together and the final suspension arms added along with the front brakes. The front aerodynamic wing structure is then constructed and added to the front section. On the sides additional aerodynamic parts are added. The front section can then be joined onto the main floor pan. The drivers wing mirrors are the last parts to be added on the front section. Next up is the rear top body. Additional aerodynamic parts are added and then this too can be added to the main body of the car. Lastly the wheels & tyres are built up with the centre of the rubber wheels being taken out. Decals The decal sheet provide markings for two separate cars for Michael Schumacher, and two from his teammate Jos Verstappen. Due to the rules on Cigarette advertising the Mild Seven decals for the car are not included, but are replaced by the word BENETTON. Conclusion This should make up to a good looking model pf the 1994 car. Recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  5. Hi All, I'm on a roll at the moment. I have really found my enthusiasm again. This is one that I have had for about 35 years, or there abouts. It's been part built for a seriously long time. I have built a few 1/20th Tamiya F1 cars over the years and have found them a challenging but rewarding build. This one has been a bit more challenging the some of them ... The box top: A truly bizarre but quite beautiful car. This was in the days of classic F1 cars, I think. The modern stuff looks a bit anodyne in comparison. I had built the engine and transmission a long time ago, and that's where it stood for quite a while. At some point in the past, the transmission fell off the engine, and disrupted the rear suspension somewhat. Trying to re-assemble that caused a number of head-aches. The springs for example, were attached to the cylinder heads and the bottom suspension arms. I attached the gear-box back on the engine, then attempted to thread the rear springs into the gap. This proved to be a problem, and caused me a bit of a head-ache, but in the end, I managed to get them fitted, Them as I was manipulating the engine about, the stacks kept falling off! The big problem however, was when I tried to attach the engine to the chassis. There is a small screw that taps into the engine block, holding the engine and chassis together, but also at the bottom was a small 'clip' that you had to put the block over and push down to lock it in place. Every time I tried to do that, one or more of the stacks would come off … again and again and again …. again. Eventually, I removed the clip bit of the bottom pin, and araldited the block to the chassis and screwed in the screw on the top. After about 24 hours, the block doesn't seems to be going anywhere, and I can call that bit done. So, this is where we have got: The back looks a bit skew. I'm blaming the camera. I think that the link rot from the anti-roll bar has come adrift yet again. Again, as you can see, one of the stacks has fallen off! I have fixed that. So, on to the body. I had primed that a while back, and have got the initial colour on: I have cut the paint back a bit to remove any inevitable imperfections and it's ready for its second coat of Tyrrell blue. The ever brilliant Zero paints. More to come. Thanks for looking. Cheers, Alan.
  6. Hi This is my build of the Mirage F-1C with the Tiger Meet scheme It is the Special Hobby kit. A pleasant kit with no major problem Some other photos at this adress Mirage F-1C "Tiger Meet"
  7. Decided to get back into modelling as find it quite therapeutic and love making things. This is the first model I have made in over 10 years so taking some time!! Found the Tamiya MP4/8 kit and the S27 Carbon decals on eBay. Also purchased the photo etched kit which I'll use some of, a full set of decals and an old Tamiya driver & engineer set I'll try to incorporate Here are some pics of my progress so far: Managed to add some small valves to the wheels using some cut down rivets from the PE kit Still a lot more carbon work to do on the floor but not looking too bad! Used BMF for the silver detail Totally messed up the paint on engine cover with an orange bleed so currently sanding ready to start again That's it for now. Just need some spare time to get some more done!
  8. Hi All, Here's my entry for this GB. I need to complete my 'Russia GB' entry first so this may be a little late off the grid. I have some aftermarket parts to go with it and depending on how the build progresses, I may hunt for some more Cheers
  9. Hi! Kelvin here from Portland, Oregon, USA. Like a lot of the folks here was into modeling as a kid and teenager (ultimate builds for me were the Tamiya large scale Tiger with internal detailing, and the Tamiya 1969 Matra). My 11 year old son just discovered the joys of building but not into it as much as I was, but what his discovery did was to inspire me to get back into the hobby. We just built our house here and I've been doing woodwork and casework building out the interior of the house but I'm hankering to change scale and work on something different. Been holding on to a Tamiya 1/12 Ducati 888 Superbike as a warmup. Got the Lotus 1/12 49b as a project I want to build (reconnecting to my Matra experience as a kid) and just got a hold of the MFH Brough Superior (for my 60th b'day) and looking out for tips here. Does anybody know if there's a way of reconnecting to all the images hosted by third parties and not showing up in the forum boards. I would love to be able to see the pictures in the Brough Superior builds on this site that have been "unhosted". Looking forward to talking to all you folks! Kelvin
  10. Yet another one started, the wife bought me this for my birthday a few months back, to be honest I only took any notice of the Lotus 88b after the Essex liveried kit was released and knew I had to have the more traditional Lotus JPS liveried kit when launched. Lotus 88b (1) I also went the whole hog and purchased the Studio 27 Carbon Fibre decals & PE parts along with JPS decals, costly but easier when the price of the kit has been offset. Lotus 88b (7) This is the first Ebbro kit and I must say I have been really impressed with the detailing, there’s some very fine parts in this kit and the moulding seems to include parts for the 88, I only noticed after I started glueing the bottom section of the Cosworth engine, fortunately I realised before it set. Lotus 88b (4) Starting with the engine block, I apologise the images start after painting, as I have little patience and couldn’t wait for Zero and Extreme metallic’s to arrive from Hiroboy, I used a mixture of Vallegio paints I bought from a local shop, I find these quite thick but managed to mix a few different shades for Flat Aluminium, Gun Metal and Metalic Grey. Lotus 88b (4) Now that they’re fitted, I’m inclined to cut the fuel hose nozzles off and drill out for passing fuse wire as I find this easier to fit the hose, it still baffles me that anyone can manufacture 0.4mm tubing but I’m still learning and treading 5Amp fuse wire into the hole the best possible solution so far. Lotus 88b I had an issue with the rear suspension, the lower wishbone started to deflect when the wheel hub was fitted, as mentioned previously I have little patience and I very rarely dry fix and this would have helped but managed to resolve this by trimming the hub and section of gear box under the top suspension arm. Lotus 88b ( Began work on the underpan adding the decal and now stumbling on to the chassis. Lotus 88b More photo's to follow, this is only my second posting since switching to Flickr and can't remember how I posted the first time, so please be patient. Thanks for looking. Regards John
  11. While taking a break from my 312T4 (in desperate need of purchase a magnifying lamp, as I'm having real trouble focusing on the wiring and tubing) I thought I would make a start on another of my favourite cars the Lotus 102, it wasn't a good car and had a part in Lotus's final demise but what a livery. I hope you enjoy this thread and apologies already for any rambling and pointless photo's taken to describe this build. Shood23 has already built a fine example of the car last year and I just hope this will be half as good as his. While doing my research I bought a build guide from the Modeler Site website by a William Chan which highlighted the changes from the Tamiya 102b kit, I also had a large a number of photo's of the chassis #4 car that was on show during the Classic Car show I visited at the Excel earlier this year so hope I am as primed as I can be. I shall, near as possible be reproducing the chassis #4 car of Derek Warwick, in my opinion one of F1's underrated drivers who never really had the car to challenge for the top. The good lady bought me the Tamiya 102b kit for my birthday and I had already purchased the Studio 27 PE upgrade, Shunko decal sheet and the Camel yellow paint from Zero all from our friends at Hiroboy. There is a Studio 27 white metal brake disk upgrade which I've only seen available from Belgium and I'm still not certain whether it's worth the extra £22, I'll probably wait to see how the car progresses before I make that decision. Also both Shaun/Shood23 and William Chan decided on a roadside kit due to the great difference of the kits Judd engine to the actual 102's Lamborghini engine. I did like the idea of having the rear cowling removable and hope nobody mentions the engine but while having an initial dry fix I noticed how bad the fitting of this section was, I've been working on a Tamiya, Williams FW13 kit and the fitting is much crisper so I may opt for a roadside kit after all but I'll delay this decision until all the alterations have bee completed. Anyway, the main modifications are to the bodywork with a pointed nose and raised section near to the cockpit, a slightly smaller and more angular air box and reduced bodywork around the engine. I also noticed, from my photo's, the rear diffuser was completely different all of which I have decided to alter, William Chan's guide doe's give some good examples of how to do this but as he had a resin nose and used the rear diffuser from a MP4/5, all of which I do not have I had to botch something together using poly sheet and tube. The nose was removed slightly in front of the actual moulded seam, so as to retain the seam line, the replacement nose was made from a rough skeleton of 2mm poly sheet then strips of 0.5mm sheet glues over to give a very basic shape over which I applied a layer of Milliput's fine epoxy putty and began to shape. To the remaining section of the cockpit I capped it off with a section of 2mm poly to get a good fixing surface when attaching the new nose, as you may see I left a small return to the base of the nose to match a similar return in the bodywork near the front suspension. I cut a section of the new nose to accommodate the front wing, then fitted the front wing to the nose with Milliput sandwiched between, left to dry and trimmed off the excess. The nose was attached and it quickly became evident my initial estimate of the size of the replacement nose was underestimated and a lot more filler would be required, that done the process of filing and sanding began. The grooves were made to give me a guide to the amount of filing back needed. Ready for initial prime coat. The addition to the front of the cockpit was from a section of 9mm poly tube cut at an angle, glue and packed with putty the lots of filing down. And I thinks its still slightly to large. Regards John
  12. Hi everyone, Here's a build I finished a while back but neglected to upload photos of. I built Tamiya's wonderful 1/20 Lotus Coventry-Climax 25. I finished it in the livery Jim Clark (in my opinion the greatest racer of all time) won the 1963 South African Grand Prix with. Clark led every single lap, won by over a minute, and lapped every car except Dan Gurney. It was his seventh win of the season - out of nine races. I used Tamiya Racing Green for the body and a combination of Alclad and Vallejo acrylics for everything else. The kit was a joy to build. The only problem is the engine cover doesn't quite fit right, but I'll display with it off anyway. I used IndyCals for much of the build, they were great as always. I'll be checking eBay and my local hobby shop for another one of these, it was a wonderful kit. As always, comments and critiques are appreciated. Thanks for looking, Jake
  13. Such is my appetite for modelling at the minute, I don't think the GB's I've entered are going to be enough for me. I've therefore decided to start a WIP for the F2007 which has been calling to me for quite some time now. Just to set expectations, I plan to dip in and out of the build over the coming months and it may even turn out to be a KUTA subject. Anyhow, the kit came with some aftermarket decals and I originally wanted to use the 'Marlboro' wording. However, I've decided to build the Kimi / Brazil configuration which, as many of you will be aware, was the 2007 winning combination in what was a 3-way down-to-the-wire battle for the Championship. Hence, I'll have to settle for the 'bar codes' The decals look like a project of their own!!
  14. Here's the Ferrari F2007 that Kimi raced back in 2007 at the British GP. Not a bad build and went together well considering it's a Revell model.
  15. Here's the completed Benetton 188 which i bought of ebay that was part done and had a few bits missing from it. I got the green and yellow markings slightly wrong - where the camel logo is, the green should have been a thinner line. Not bad to say i had to dismantle most of it to rebuild it and give it some paint. And there's a slight discolouring on the blue just under the sisley sign.
  16. Hi all, Here are some pictures of my latest finished project, Ebbro's MP4/30 midseason version. I was hoping it would be a quick build, but I had quite a few issues. Almost all were fault of the modeller. I added a harness and an aluminum tube for the exhaust. I also cut some brass rod for the driveshafts and did some carbon decalling on the suspension arms. I used TS-40 Metallic Black for the paintwork. As always, comments are welcome, Jake
  17. I've started this new kit of a fascinating but short-lived car from my favourite F1 team. It's the first Ebbro kit I've tried and so far it looks good. I went for the Essex livery as I like the blue, although I may end up with the Courage black and chrome 88B too if this build goes well. The kit comes with both plain blue plastic for the chrome side panels and chrome decals, plus a chromed plastic set, giving several options on these parts. Following a thread on the F1M website I'm going for the blue panels and adding chrome decals. I'm hoping that someone will come out with a carbon decal set as I still haven't found a sheet of carbon decals that exactly match the carbon used on the tub. I'm sure there will be plenty of aftermarket parts for these two cars in the near future, with Acu.Stion announcing lots of detail parts already. I went with Tamiya TS-50 for the Essex blue and it's a lovely colour (I don't know how accurate it is but it does look nice!) Here's a link to the kit and Hobby Search's usual very helpful photos of the kit and instructions: http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10324889 I took advantage of a sunny winter's day to put a coat of Mica Blue on the upper body cowl. That's about all I've done so far! That's it for now. I also need to finish my Aoshima McLaren F1 GTR so progress may be slow. It's winter here in Australia and my spray booth is in the shed so I need warm days for spraying and the Mac needs a gloss coat. I plan to wait for a decent carbon decal set before finishing the tub on the Lotus, so let's hope someone brings one out soon! Cheers, Kev.
  18. Please find below, images of my completed 1/20 Fujimi Ferrari 126C2, started Boxing Day. It started out a simple OOB but then I decided on leads & fuel pipes and continued with electrical wiring, trunking, paneling, hose, bends and driver. I can safely say I have thoroughly enjoyed building this kit. Hope you enjoy, for anybody interested my WIP is still reasonably current (I tried linking tread with no luck). Thanks for Looking. I would like to give my thanks to all the encouraging comments on the WIP and a special thanks to Phil B and Malc2 for sharing their knowledge of such a great car. Regards John
  19. Here's the Tamiya Benetton B192 that Martin Brundle drove. It's hand painted barring the decals and took an age to do, i wish i had an airbrush when i did this, i think it took about 2 months all in all. The yellow is a mix of 2 humbrol paints, i cant remember the colours i used, but i made the mistake of laying down grey primer as a base, i should've used white, it wouldn't have needed 4 layers of paint. I couldn't work with the tamiya spray as suggested in the instructions. The Green is tamiya's park green from a jar rather than the spray. The decals had dried out as i bought it second hand off ebay. When i put the decals in water, they flaked off so had to buy 3rd party decals from Hiroboy. Anyway, its not turned out too bad considering but enjoyed the tamiya kit over the revell kit. It just seemed to fit better.
  20. Here's the Revell Jordan EJ10 in 1:24 scale by Revell that Jarno Trulli drove back n 2000. It's not the best model to put together. Some of the parts didn't fit and the plastic was really soft. The tyres are of poor quality too - the decals don't fit and i managed to snap out the middles of the wheels due to the plastic been so soft and the tight fitting onto the axels. I used Halford's Primer on this model for the Yellow bits and im not too happy with it. It's not got that smooth look which i got with the simoniz primer but the simoniz plastic printer does adhere to the plastic so when sticking masking tape on the model the primer just peels off. The Halfords primer gives a rough finish and it comes out the can far too quick. Ill be going back to Hycote i think as that was the best primer ive bought and used. Just need to think how to get that excellent flat shine on the model that others get. It's had about 3 coats of Klear (Pledge floor polish from Sainsburys) and 2 coats of white spirit and humbrol gloss (mixed) and brush painted on. The only bit that looks glossy is the black on the front and rear wings as this has Simoniz plastic primer and Hycote black gloss spray can applied to it.
  21. Another F1 car completed back in May but only just had chance to upload it. First time with microset and microsol on this model and since then, not looked back.
  22. Here's the Revell Ferrari F310B 1:24 which M Schumacher drove. The first model that i've sprayed with an air brush using the Revell Aqua paints and to be fair, not done a bad job. The gloss humbrol gloss mixed with white spirit on a 1:1 ratio. I didn't leave enough room for the car's number on the nose, again the instructions mislead me to putting the white stripe in the wrong place. The photos do the more justice as the paint work is a little bit dark. It told me to mix Revell Luminous Red 332 and Fiery Red 31. I should've just bought Ferrari red. Maybe the instructions were printed before Revell brought out Ferrari red. The rims were hand painted with Tamiyas X-12 gold leaf. Ive found a cheap way to thin the tamiya paint down. Use Boots' own acetone free nail varnish remover (the green one) as it contains isopropyl alcohol which is whats in tamiya mini paint pots, its a 1:4 ratio (nail varnish remover : Tamia paint)
  23. Here's the Toyota TF102 from the 2002 F1 season I cant remember what i did with this, i think i sprayed the base with humbrol white spray and then hand painted the bits of red that were needed before laying the red decals over the top. Was one of the easier builds but is a very rare model to find.
  24. Here's my finished MP4/12 of Mika Hakkinen's car from 1997. I struggled with the decal on the nose, it would not stick even with loads of Microsol pasted over it.
  25. Well I'm starting my build this week. I'm not sure which car to do, chassic 19R or 27R. These are my choices. What do you think? EDIT: I think the Papaya Orange is a cracker colour EDIT: I think the Papaya Orange is nice but I'm now thinking of building the Gloss black in the Pre Season livery that comes with the kit How about a nice hill climb at Goodwood festival of speed to get in the mood
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