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Found 15 results

  1. Our 2019 brochure update is available now: Free download here: https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/pages/colour-list
  2. I have decided to think about an alternative to my beloved Mr Color and Mr Paint and in a moment of patriotic zeal ,I thought about using locally produced paint, especially having been wowed by Stew Dapples sex god apron outfit at Telford, it's time for some Colourcoats. Now I am familiar with its previous incarnation through White Ensign and have no qualms about the quality and colour matches which from what I can see are pretty exacting. My interest is in the speed of drying, I'm spoilt as Mr Color/Paint +Mr Leveling dries rock hard and Tamiya tape ready in 30-120 minutes on average in my temperature and humidity controlled spray room. What kind of drying times are folk getting in the real world, especially with their dedicated thinner? Has anyone tried it with the terabine type drying accelerators like Rustins for instance? Some real world experiences and links to some results/build threads would be good. To give a benchmark , in my latest build below, I did a 1/72 BoB 109E by spraying RLM 65 at lunchtime , masking the underside and RLM 02 at 16:00 and then applying splinter tamiya/oramask 810 masks and doing the RLM 71 two hours later and then finally at 21:00 gloss coating it, no tape lift whatsoever. Ideally thats the kind of speed I'd be looking to replicate. Again it's no big deal as I'm happy with my paints but unhappy that its made many thousands ( or even hundreds) of miles away and shipped all the way here with all the harm that entails. that and supporting small local producers. Anil
  3. I'm in an experimentation / development sort of mood at the moment rather than an "out-perform-myself" sort of mood. So, following on from my recent F-86D Sabre Dog completion which was to try to figure out a way to get a natural metal finish I liked (I'm not done with that yet, btw) I thought I would try something that relates directly to our own paint and what can be done with it (and what cannot). I have read about "hairspray chipping" numerous times but had never tried it nor understood how to do it. A casual attempt without knowing anything else was a total failure. I kept reading that it could only be done with acrylic paints but this included everything from water based vinyl types to acrylic lacquers, so I knew that this apparent requirement had to be based on nothing more than the popular position of acrylic=good, enamel=bad despite acrylic meaning anything under the sun really. Thus, I decided that this old piece of Corsair which featured on the F-86D thread could lend its services again: You find with stuff like hairspray chipping that "everyone" just knows how to do it, but nobody has written down how to do it. Eventually I learned that what is required is water for the scratching-off phase at the end. Armed with this little nugget, I sprayed some hairspray straight from the aerosol can (that part is to be refined in the forthcoming) onto the piece shown above - 4 coats, actually, and whilst that dried I thinned down some Colourcoats enamel - which happened to be a matt dark olive shade I had on the bench next to the airbrush - but it could have been hot pink for all I cared here. Anyway, it works. Hairspray chipping works with a Colourcoats topcoat (the chipping coat) at least over an Alclad base. In the forthcoming I shall establish how (not if) to chip between layers of enamel. Also, there's the more subtle task of actually getting good at it! The test there is, admittedly, a mess, however it served a valuable purpose. Under water, I was able to remove Colourcoats enamel with a cut-down paint brush (but it had some paint dried in it - that's where the scratches came from), and I also tried a kitchen scouring pad which was responsible for most of the exposed silver there. Using a kit from the stash that doesn't need much effort, is quite cheap and as common as dirt (so I don't care if I mess this up), I now aim to incorporate this into a model and, specifically, use the hairspray chipping method exposing bare metal and yellow zinc chromate primer in different areas. If anyone wishes to follow, comment, criticise, suggest better ways, educate, point, laugh, whatever, please join in The victim - a nice enough kit. I have always struggled to get the wing join such that I'm happy with it but overall if it goes well I will enjoy having it and if it's a disaster then no real harm done! I'm not investing much in this, but probably will stretch to seatbelts just incase it ends up looking ok in the end. I'm not spending money on them though - instead I'll use these ones from an Eduard SBD Dauntless fret. I don't like the pre-painted ones Eduard make now - the paint self-strips when the belts are bent to suit, and I don't like the superfabric ones either. I need to find a new source of belts or at least belt buckles - but that's another matter I started by spraying most of the parts with Alclad Duralumin whilst still on the runners. After assembly the wing leading edges etc will probably need another blow over
  4. We've updated our Colourcoats model paint brochures. These are available to download here: https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/pages/colour-list
  5. Hey, so I have this problem with Revell colors. I've bought Revell enamel matt 37 for the surface to look, well, matt. But that isn't the case as you can see in the pictures. The red color appears glossy. Now, I've put a matt 69 besides it for comparison, so you can clearly see the difference. I don't know what is going on. Could this be a mistake by Revell or did I do something wrong? Model looks kinda ruined for me now, because everything should have matt finish (it's a Boba Fett Slave I by Revell by the way). Is there any way to safe it? I have some varnish... Also, the paint has been drying for more than 24h, that is important for you to know. So, what to do?
  6. Good evening. I am returning to modelling and suspect that the Stork Margarine tub hiding in my garage containing paints purchased in the early 1980s had probably had it, so it's time for me to re-stock. I do remember buying the very first Tamiya acrylics back in 1981/2 and at the time, those of us punters in the Manchester Model Shop (happy days) were looking at them like prehistoric man looking at an iPhone. I am thinking to building my base collection using Humbrol acrylics. Logic: Humbrol is probably the easy default brand and it's supporting good old Hornby, and acrylic because it's a darned sight easier to clean than enamels. Am I being silly? I know that I shall be adding to my paint collection over time and see options with Tamiya, Vallejo etc. but am I being too doctrinaire by trying to stick with acrylics? I'm really interested to learn. Kind regards, Neil
  7. Hello all. For many years (long ago) I used only Humbrol paints. Then, they became hard to get in the U.S>, so I switched to Model Master. I recently dug out some of my now 20 - 30 or more year-old Humbrol paints, and I still marvel over the super tiny pigments. My questions: Does Humbrol still make enamel paints with the very tiny pigment. ( I read a few years back that their supplier in China had dried up)? How do they cover whether air or brush painting? Is there anything else out there with a super fine pigment, that is airbrush ready (particularly in U.S. colors, since that is what I build, mostly)? I am mostly interested in Humbrol enamels and comparing old-time to newer, but would also appreciate opionions about other types (ie acrylics) it they were more or less problem free in a .2mm airbrush. Thanks for any comments, ED
  8. After a marathon of a weekend with the combined efforts of 6 different people over the period, including Stew again, we have now replenished the webstore with fresh stock of many colours including: Royal Navy WW2 RN01 - 507A Dark Grey RN02 - 507B Medium Grey RN07 - B5 / B15 Dark Blue US Navy WW2 US05 - Late 1941 5-H Haze Gray US06 - Late 1941 5-O Ocean Gray US27 - Norfolk 250-N Flight Deck Stain Regia Marina RM08 - Rosso Imperial Japanese Navy IJN04 - Yokosuka Naval Arsenal Grey IJN11 - IJN Antifouling Red Modern Naval M12 - Russian Deck Green Royal Australian Air Force ACOZ04 - RAAF Light Earth ACOZ12 - RAAF Medium Sea Grey Japanese aircraft (IJN / IJA) ACJ20 - Hinomaru Red ACJ23 - Propeller Brown Luftwaffe ACLE04 - Rot (RAL3000) ACLW09 - Grun RLM62 ACLW21 - Gelb RLM04 Royal Air Force / Fleet Air Arm ACRN04 - Medium Sea Grey (BS381C-637) ACRN09 - MAP Dark Green ACRN21 - RAF/FAA Yellow ACRN25 - Light Green ACRN27 - Roundel Red (BS381C-538) Regia Aeronautica ACRA10 - Nocciola Chiaro USAAF / USAF / USN ACUS11 - Pre-war Chrome Yellow ACUS18 - Tan FS20219 - SEA / Vietnam ACUS26 - Insignia Red ACUS30 - Bronze Green #9 ACUS33 - ANA607 Non-Specular Sea Blue ACUS34 - ANA623 Glossy Sea Blue Furthermore, the long unavailable ACD - Dutch air force range is presently in manufacture and will be available again soon
  9. New back in stock - we're getting back to normality! Colourcoats Sea C01 - Teak M03 - Modern US Navy Haze Gray RN02 - AP 507B Home Fleet Grey RN06 - MS3 Medium Greenish Grey US11 - Flight Deck Stain 21 US14 - Norfolk 65A Anti-fouling Red US28 - #27 Neutral Haze Gray KM01 - Hellgrau 50 GW02 - #2 Grey Colourcoats Air ACLW13 - Dunkelgrau Grunlich (RLM74) ACLW14 - Mittelgrau (RLM75) ACUS10 - WW2 US Navy Non-specular White ACUS22 - Zinc Chromate Green ACF11 - Chamois Colourcoats Thinners - 125ml Coloursets DKM Admiral Graf Spee HMS Repulse (November 1941) HMS Prince of Wales (May 1941) RAF Battle of Britain RAF Coastal Command
  10. Hey, I am a new guy in modelling and I´m asking myself for a long time some questions. 1. I am searching for a shop selling Xtracolor paints, I checked Hannants, Aviation Mega Store, Martola and Falsh-aviation. 2. Is there any way to get BA Blue X322, KLM Light Blue X302, Korean AIr Blue X308, Airbus Industrie Grey X359, MICA 1 X368, Virigin Atlantic Grey X367, Boeing Grey X301 and Corrogard X331? 3. When there aren´t a way, please let me know If there are any alternatives. - Greetings from Germany L.B.
  11. We have released a new proprietary thinner to compliment the Colourcoats range Colourcoats Thinners offers a number of key benefits to enamel paint users including: · Reduced odours during use compared to white spirits or cellulose thinners · Reduced drying times compared to white spirits · Less aggressive towards styrene plastics than cellulose thinners · If desired, excess thinned paints can be returned to Colourcoats tins without premature curing in the tin https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/collections/multi-use-colours/products/colourcoats-thinners'>https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/collections/multi-use-colours/products/colourcoats-thinners
  12. Anyone tried the new Humbrol Luftwaffe enamels (the ones in the 24x range) yet? What are they like for colour accuracy and actually drying matt like they are supposed to? Any other observations?
  13. I've been using Testors RLM colours in enamel. I love the colours and they spray well when thinned with Testors enamel thinner. BUT....I've found that even after a couple of days the paint can rub off when handling the model. Anyone else experience this? Any possible reasons??? Cheers Bruce
  14. I'm flitting between enamels & acrylics as I get more into my airbrush. I've been using rattle can cleaner, which seems to strip everything (including dissolving the nitrile disposable gloves I was wearing!) but I've got some Vallejo airbrush cleaner on order. Will this work if I switch back to enamel, as I did this afternoon? Thx & happy Christmas one & all Andrew
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