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Hi all. I would like to contribute this lovely kit to the MiG-21 fun. Aiming for OOB given the quality of the plastic. I saw a discussion elsewhere about camo vs aluminium version, and to be honest I still haven't decided which to go for... A camo MiG-21 would be visually interesting (sorry about the flash flare) but the "Cold War" look of the Aluminium scheme is tempting, especially as this will allow me to have some fun with weathering. I can ponder for a bit whilst I do the innards, and build up the major components. Icarus

Hi All, I'm straight into my next project (making the most of gardening leave before I start a new job next week!) I'm going to build Eduard's 1:48 Airacobra. Here's the box artwork: Here's the sprue shots: And a nice PE fret: The kit contains markings for 5 US aircraft (including no less than 3 with sharkmouths - @corsaircorp take note!!)🦈 However I've decided to complete this as an RAAF machine, so I've sourced a set of the excellent Red Roo transfers: I'm going to complete as the machine shown, A53-6 of 82 Sqn RAAF, based at RAAF Bankstown NSW in 1943. This is the only picture I could find of the aircraft, which crashed due to engine failure in August 1943. The aircraft was subsequently repaired and returned to the US 5th Air Force. A quick check of the aircraft serial revealed that this was a P39F: http://www.adf-serials.com.au/2a53.htm This meant that the aircraft had a 3-bladed Aeroproducts constant-speed propeller and 12-stack exhausts, both of which are provided in the kit. There has been some discussion on this forum regarding the colours of RAAF aircraft: The scheme as presented by Red Roo shows the aircraft in US Olive Drab and Extra Dark Sea Grey over RAAF Sky Blue. I have no reason to doubt this combination, and it will make for an unusual colour scheme, so I'm going to go with it, dammit!! Anyway, on with the build! Thanks for looking, Roger

This is something I've been working on for almost a month but is nearly completed now so this isn't a traditional WIP but I though I'd show some of the build photos anyway. This is the Eduard Weekend edition of the Fw190D9 which I was originally going to build right out of the box however when I saw a profile for Red 18 I was hooked. It turned out that I found 4 or more different profiles for Red 18 so this is a bit of a pick'n'mix of them all. I had originally started building this while away on holiday a few years ago but it soon became obvious that I should have taken something a lot simpler with me so after completing the first stage I stopped and put it back in the box which is where it had stayed for the last 3 years. So this is roughly where I set off from three weeks ago. The instructions would have me glue the rear of the engine, the supports and the firewall together as one piece before joining the fuselage halves. I just couldn't see how I was going to get that to work so I fitted the firewall to one fuselage half then fitted the supports and the rear of the engine to the firewall once it was set. This also helped align the fuselage halves which were slightly warped on my kit, possibly due to them having been stored off the sprue. I knew most of the detail of the rear engine was going to disappear once closed up so took another photo of it as completed, I was quite pleased with the way it turned out. And the cockpit, I hate detailing cockpits but didn't have any after-market bits for it other than a set of fabric seatbelt that will be fitted at the end of the build. The firewall and rear of engine in place From underneath... ...and it starts to disappear About this time I noticed that there was something a bit odd to my eye with regards the supercharger air intake. To me it looked like it had been moulded upside down or as a mirror image. In all the photos and drawings I've seen the shorter side is on top. Here's the mirror image, I think that looks better Anyhow there is nothing available to replace it that I could find so I had to go with it. (I've only ever seen this problem mentioned in one review of the kit so it's something that either isn't a problem or hasn't been picked up by many people) I don't normally build my kits with anything open but I'd heard a lot about closing up the gun bay doors on the Eduard Fw190s. I decided I'd give it a go on one of the gun bays anyway and have the rest open. After some dry fitting I thought it would be easy enough to fit the wing root gun cover to the top half of the wing before fitting the whole wing to the fuselage. The cover needed some sanding to get the fuselage side of it to fit snuggly into the fuselage but I had no problems cutting out the upper wing part and gluing the cover in place, I didn't even need any filler on it. The rest of the build went smoothly enough although I did have to sand the back of the wing spar to get one of the upper wing halves to fit, ironically it was the wing that I left the gun bay open. Other than the fit of the wing to fuselage I had no problems worth mentioning. I've read that the front of the fin is too wide but it looks fine to me so I left it alone. As I mentioned earlier while looking for information on which type of canopy to fit I found that there were at least 4 different colour profiles in the various books and decal options I had seen. I knew which colours that the production batch it came from used so at least I could confirm that the profiles were all variations of those colours. After some assistance from a couple of BMers (and an expensive purchase of the JaPo books ) I decided to go with (mostly) the EagleCals version of the colour scheme, I painted the flaps RLM76 whereas EagleCals leave them in bare metal. From the only photo of the underside I've seen it looked like the flaps were missing anyway. I painted the underside of the wing with AK Interactive's Extreme Metal Aluminium which went on beautifully smooth and shiny, too shiny for what I wanted in fact so I toned it down with matt varnish sprayed onto various panels in varying densities to get some variation. This worked really well however I didn't get a photo before I moved onto the next stage of weathering the NMF. To give the NMF a weathered look I sprayed a very thinned down version of the RLM76 I'd been using onto the various panels to give them an oxidised look, I might have taken it a bit too far but I was aiming for a worn look. I then sprayed some very thinned down smoke over the panel joins. Here is the underside as it is now with the painting and oil wash completed In the various profiles they all agreed that the front of the fuselage and power egg was painted in RLM 83 Dark Green, some then went with RLM 83 over all the fuselage and others with RLM75 or 82, I decided to go with the RLM75. The profiles showed the wings to be either RLM83/75 or RLM83/82, again I went with the RLM 83/75 version as per EagleCals, this version seemed logical to me as this aircraft was built early in the mid production run at FW Marienburg according to various references which also stated that the colour schemes changed from 83/75 to 83/82 during this production batch, ok, it's a guess! The paints used were Mr Paint (from Slovakia) over their grey primer. I wanted a really worn looking effect as the photos showed it to be far from pristine so I sprayed some of the AK Interactive aluminium over the leading edges, along the wing roots and up to the cockpit and then used the salt technique to mask it off before commencing the top coats. I also painted the hatch on the port side of the fuselage with RLM75 as some photos appear to show it darker than the RLM76, it adds visual interest even if it might not be factual. The National and unit markings were sprayed on using Montex Masks, very fiddly and a bit nerve wracking but worth the effort, the red 18 was left slightly 'chipped' intentionally to fit in with the other 'chipping'. I didn't use their serial number mask on the fin though as it appeared to be too big compared to the photos. The stencils and serial numbers came from the EagleCals decal sheet. I didn't add the wing walkways as none of the profiles showed them and I couldn't see them on the photos (and also because they are a PITA to do). An oil wash was applied using various shades of AK Interactive and MIG washes and has been left to dry which is where I am at now. The next stage will be to seal all that in with a clear coat then do the detailed painting and weathering followed by the final assembly. So I'm hopeful that I'll have this finished before the Aberdeen Modeller's Society club meeting next week. Duncan B

Airco DH.2 1:48 Eduard 'Profipack' Designed by Geoffrey De Havilland, the prototype DH.2 first flew in July 1915 and was sent to France for evaluation in the same month. Attached to 5 squadron, it was unfortunately lost on the German side of the lines in August. Development and production continued with the first examples being issued to 24 squadron RFC in January 1916, and their deployment to France in February. The DH.2 quickly proved itself to be a capable combat machine and was able to put an end to the 'Fokker scourge' of the monoplane Fokker Eindecker with its synchronised machine gun firing through the propeller. Despite it's fragile looks, it was a sturdy machine and remained the RFC's best fighter aircraft throughout most of 1916. The basic layout of a pod with the engine at there rear and twin booms to hold the tailplane was a popular one, particularly with British and French designers. It's great advantage was that it gave an unrestricted field of fire forward as well as an excellent view, which are both great assets in a fighting aeroplane. The Vickers Gunbus was the first such British machine to reach the Western Front, and was followed by the DH.2, FE.2b, FE.8, while the French used the Voisin 3 and various Caudrons and Maurice-Farmans. Virtually all of these were referred to as 'Vickers' by the German pilots, as their layout was so similar. The 'pusher' layout became obsolete by the end of 1916 when the new Albatros D.1 and D.II biplanes appeared at the front, with their conventional 'tractor' layout with synchronised twin machine guns firing through the propeller. By 1917 the allies had developed reliable synchronisation gear, and machines such as the Sopwith Pup consigned the single seat 'pusher' fighters to history, although the 2 seat FE.2 carried on to the end of the war as a night bomber. The kit. First released in 2005, Eduards DH.2 set new standards in moulding and beautifully engineered parts with precision fit. I bought one and built it at the time, and it still resides in my display cabinet. In recent years it has become hard to find, but happily Eduard have now re-released it in Profipack form. The kit is packaged in Eduard's familiar orange stripe box, and consists of three sprues of plastic parts, one small acetate sheet of windscreens, a set of kabuki masks, a sheet of decals and a generously sized fret of etched brass. Construction begins, as usual, with the cockpit and Eduard supply some really beautiful detail here, using plastic, etch, and decal where appropriate. The wicker seat is provided as an etched item and you also have the option of the injection moulded version. A choice of three different instrument panels is offered, depending upon which version you choose. All the instruments are provided as decals with fine etched brass bezels to fit over them. (A tip here is not to glue the bezels, but just use Johnsons Kleer or gloss varnish to secure them) Some helpful cutaway side profiles are drawn on the instructions to make it clear how the panels fit. Rudder pedals, trim lever, ammo drums, and seat belts all go in to make a wonderfully detailed cockpit. Much of it will be visible on the finished model as being an open cockpit, and right out in front, for once all your hard work will remain on view. The little Gnome engine comes next, with each of the 9 cylinders requiring fitment of an etched brass valve and bracket. 12 sets of these are thoughtfully provided, in case the carpet monster get hungry when you come to fit them on. (Another tip - I put the upturned box lid on my work bench for this sort of job. Then when I drop a tiny etched part it is simple to find again). Later on, the engine will be fitted with either a 2 or 4 bladed propeller, again depending on which option you have chosen. Next up is fitment of the top wing and all those struts. It may look daunting, but can actually be made quite easy to do. I use a strip of clear plasticard taped to the underside of the top wing, and make a hole with a compass point where every strut location is. Remove the the plasticard, and drill each hole out with a 0.7mm drill, leaving you with template of all strut locations. When all the struts are glued into the bottom wing, use the template to line them all up while the glue sets. A few coins help to weight it down a little. It is much easier to explain with pictures, which I did a few years back on my build of Eduards Bristol Fighter Once the top wing is on and rigged, the tail booms and tailplanes go on. Having previously built one, I can verify that the whole wing structure along with the booms and tailplane are all precisely engineered and go together beautifully. Yes, this is not one for the beginner, but with due care anyone who has built a few biplanes should find this one well within their capabilities. The upper and lower wings are the same as many other biplane models, the only difference here is a pair of booms to hold the tailplane. Rigging diagrams are provided step by step, rather than just 1 single cluttered drawing showing it all at once, which makes it easier to follow. Fitting the Lewis gun and a choice of three different external ammo drum panniers completes the model. Masks The Kabuki tape masks provide items for the wheel hubs and the propeller hub. Both the 2 and 4 blade props had brass sheathed tips with a sort of shallow 'S' edge where they fitted across its chord. A full set of 8 individual masks are provided to make sure you get them all exact and equal. An addition since the 2005 release that I built is a section of mask for the underside of the cockpit nacelle. The side panels of PC8 (or PC10) coloured fabric were trimmed to alternate triangle shapes and folded over the underside and doped, giving a distinctive saw tooth pattern. This is now helpfully supplied as a mask and should make painting the pattern very simple. Etched Brass. This has also been revised for this re-release and contains a whole host of detailed item. Several are options depending upon which version you choose, so as well as providing enhanced detail, many items can go into your spares box. The set is very comprehensive and covers the seat, ammo panniers, nacelle straps, control horns, ammo drums, gun sights, windshield bracket, control wire guide pulleys, plus others. Thoughtfully many of the tiny items are provided with spares, in case you lose any. Film. A small film provides the 2 optional windscreens that fit on a neat etched bracket on the Lewis gun. Decals Four options are provided. A. 6011, 24 Squadron RFC, 1916 B. 7851, 32 Squadron RFC, 1916 C. 5998, Captain John Oliver Andrews, 24 Squadron RFC, 1916 D. 5967, Robert H. M. S. Saundby, 24 Squadron RFC, 1916 The roundels and rudder stripes are common to all versions, with individual markings for each option. All the instrument faces are provided, 44 tiny strut logos, and 'Palmer Aero Cord' lettering for the tyres. The colours look very good, printing and register are very sharp, and the carrier film is minimal. The decals themselves look to be very thin, so should go on very nicely. Conclusion. This is a very well produced package with everything you could wish for to produce an outstanding model. Beautiful injection moulded parts, etched brass, kabuki masks, and excellent decals within Eduards orange stripe 'Profipack' box offer the most complete and rewarding modelling experience. The DH.2 is a subject best suited to modellers with a medium to higher level of skill, due to the complexity of the struts and rigging. However, its design and fit are excellent, so it should be well within the capabilities of anyone with a moderate level of skill. I really enjoyed my build of the first release of this kit, it produces an absolute little gem of a model, which has had a permanent place in my display cabinet since it was completed several years ago. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Hey guys, after ages i have finaly some time for modeling At this moment i just needed to build something quick, so i chosed the Eduard´s 1/72 F6F Hellcat. It is great kit, goes together like a charm! Building this OOB. Well.. mostly.. so far i made new position lights and landing light on wings, cut off the exhausts and ll replace these (and gun barrels) by needle tubes later. I did not take shots during the building phase, so here is where i m now Here are the painting steps: 1. aluminium overall 2. chipping fluid 3. zinc chromate yellow 4. scratch down the yellow paint on most used areas 5. chipping fluid 6. some sort of preshading done by sponge and dilluted acrylic paint 7. airbrushed patches of dark shade of base paint 8. airbrushed patches of light shade of base paint 9. mascol applied by sponge 10. airbrushed patches of very light shade of base paint 11. applied salt in random pattern 12. airbrushed coat of medium shade of base paint 13. removed salt and mascol 14. airbushed very light (much much thinned) coat of the base paint 15. using water to dissolve the chipping fluid (applied at step 5) make some scratches around Right now the Hellcat got coat of gloss varnish and is geting ready for decals I had one big trouble though with white paint - some failure batch probably, it does not want to mix properly, it does not adhere well and keeps peeling off... had to remove the bottom side paint twice already up to bare plastic, still it is not perfect but i m not going to remove it for third time..