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Found 10 results

  1. Pegasus Hobbies Fw 190A-3. I had bought this kit with all the pieces out of their sprues (but with all the pieces being present) and without the original decals (it came with two sets of badly stored ones). I used Eaglecals decals for the Fw 190A-2/A-3 in 1:48 to represent a plane used by Schlg 1 in the Eastern Front. You can look this plane up on Google as "Fw 190A-3 jagdbomber a." I used a Hasegawa 190 bomb rack, and a Bf 109 bomb.
  2. This aircraft is available as an option on Eaglecals EC48-129 and 32-129. Both sheets come with a poster of the aircraft with too much sheen on the left fuselage, making it rather difficult to see any fuselage camouflage details. This photo shows the contrasts between the RLM 70 and 71, and also shows the aircraft carrying a white-outlined Swastika, without the black filling. I hope you find this photo helpful.
  3. Heinkel He 111H-16 (48263) 1:48 ICM via Hannants The He.111 was originated in secrecy, disguised as a civilian transport in the mid-30s, but once Nazi Germany came out of the closet and disregarded the Versailles agreement, it immediately became clear that they were rearming in a major way. The early civilian and military variants had a more traditional stepped canopy, and there is a famous piece of film that is used and reused in documentaries showing a D or "Dora" variant dropping bombs during the Spanish Civil War as part of the Condor Legion, which was Hitler's proving ground for his new designs and Blitzkreig tactics. Various revisions followed until the P, which introduced the now-iconic stepless fully glazed cockpit, which improved both aerodynamics and the pilot's situational awareness. The P series saw limited action in WWII as it was replaced by the more competent H variant, substituting Junkers Jumo 211 engines, detuned to give it the throbbing beat that was to be heard over Britain almost until the end of the war. The H-16 was a product of the experience of the Battle of Britain, and from the H-11 onward, improved armament and armoured glass for the gunners was introduced along with additional armour around the crewed areas, some of which could be jettisoned in an emergency. Additional improvements were made to the -16 in communications and radar equipment, with the capability added to carry an external load over the bomb bay by the installation of a rack. The H series continued until the H-23, although there were also a number of side-projects such as the Z, Zwilling with two airframes joined by a central aerofoil and sporting five engines, designed to tow the Me.321 Gigant glider. The Kit This is a revision of the recent new tooling by ICM, who have raised their game substantially over the recent years. The kit arrives in their lidded top-opened with a glossy card lid and painting of a care-worn example on the front, with ten sprues in medium, grey styrene, two in crystal clear styrene, an instruction booklet in line-drawn colour, and a long decal sheet that can be found ensconced within the booklet. On opening the bags, it is very apparent that this is a modern tooling, with lots of lovely details, crisp moulding, and some very clever engineering on display. The cockpit and partial interior will require some thought for painting, but if you get the order right, you should minimise the swearing when you have to reload the airbrush for the Nth time. The new parts include a new insert for the dorsal gun station, the choice of two under-belly trays, guns, props, wheels and bombs, which are spread over three sprues, two of which are identical. The clear parts are augmented by a new sprue that contains armoured and adapted parts to accommodate the double-Zwilling mounts that were used in the gondola and flank gun positions in this variant. Construction starts with the two wing spar parts, which are separated by the gear bay roof assemblies and a walkway part. Additional detail is added to the bulkheads along with the fuselage walkways and a smaller bulkhead toward the tail, with the lower portion of the mid-upper "turret" ring attached to the floor. The cockpit floor is then assembled with rudder pedals, instrument panels, seat and control linkages, slotting into the front spar once finished. An additional chair and the overhead instrument panel are installed later in the build. As a prelude to closing up the fuselage, the tail wheel is fitted together, which has the wheel moulded-in, and consists of three parts. Preparation of the fuselage halves involves adding the inserts into the wing roots and making good the join; inserting the paired side windows which now have alternative parts and twin machine guns; adding ammo can racks; radio panel; the pilot's control column, and more glazing in the ventral gondola. The spar/cockpit assembly is then fitted to the starboard fuselage half and the port side is added along with some glue. The rudder is separate and fits to the fin with actuators, then the missing fuselage panels between the spars are added, which of course will need painting and fettling in if you're bothered about the endoscope-equipped viewers. The mid-upper insert is designed to cater for the revised gun installation, and has a lovely serrated ring moulded-in, with controls and bracing strut added before it is installed into the fuselage opening, closing off much of the rear fuselage. The bomb bay is left on the sprues in this boxing, with the opening covered either by a large raised area with five sets of bomb shackle slots, or two raised sections that can carry two larger bombs. The bombs themselves are built up from two halves that have two fins moulded-in, and a single part that fits on the tail forming the other two fins in a cruciform layout. To these are added stiffening brackets, with either five smaller bombs or two larger ones to fill the station layout that you have chosen. At this point the wings are begun, with the lower sides added to the fuselage/spar assembly first. The ailerons are separate, and are built up before the uppers are added, as are the elevators, and the two engines, which are provided in their entirety, along with much of the ancillary equipment and engine mounts. The completed Jumo 211F-2s are fitted to the front of the spars and depending on whether you want to display them or not, and then enclosed by cowling panels, radiators and the intake/outlet ramps. The bottom cowlings can be split to reveal the engine detail, which is a good way of showing off the detail without ruining the lines of the aircraft. The upper wings and ailerons are fitted, the remaining cowling panels with the flame damping exhausts are added, which could do with drilling out to simulate being hollow, and finally the nose glazing, which has a machinegun and the aforementioned overhead instrument panel moulded in clear styrene, has a decal for the instruments. The nose "cone" is a separate clear part, and it too is fitted with a machine gun with a single drum mag and dump bag for the spent brass. Another two MGs are fitted to the new rear glazing part on the gondola, and the mid-upper gun is added to the new rear-facing armoured glass, along with the protective clear shroud at the front. The main wheels are each built up from two halves, and placed between the twin legs that have the main retraction jacks moulded in, and secured with a number of cross-braces between the two legs. An additional ram is fitted within the bay, attached to the rear cross-brace. The gear bay doors fit to the bay sides with large tabs, and the new props are made up from a single part with two part spinner and back plate, which fit onto the engine's output shaft through the vented front of the cowlings. Markings There are four decal options included in the box, two in winter distemper finishes, the other two in RLM70/71 splinter pattern over RLM65 with the unit markings and codes to differentiate between them. From the box you can build one of the following: He.111H-16 5./KG4, Eastern Front, Winter 1942-3 He.111H-16 2./Schleppgruppe 4, Eastern Front, Winter 1942-3 He.111H-16 Stab II./KG53, Eastern Front, September 1943 He.111H-16 2./KG100, Eastern Front, September 1943 Decals are printed by ICM, with good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas with a few exceptions around some of the fuselage codes. These can easily be cut off before they are applied however, so it's not an issue. Conclusion The He.111 is a truly iconic shape, and we're long overdue a new tooling of the type in this scale. This new variant adds breadth to the range, giving the modeller a number of Eastern Front options that played an important part in the war there. Very highly recommended. Available from UK Importers, H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of
  4. Hello all, I am trying to find out the exact location where a relative of mine crash landed his FW190 F-8 in February 1945 due to engine troubles where he was wounded but survived. He's not a direct relative but a family member who is English married a German woman and her father was the said pilot. I have a loss report which states he crashed in "Map Quad Pl.Qu.52746". These coordinates mean nothing to me and my basic research hasn't revealed anything. I believe the Germans used their own grid system for specific areas which is what I imagine this relates to. Any experts out there have any idea please? I can tell you he was based at Grossenhain, east Germany, at the time of the crash and being towards the end of the war and with the range of the aircraft suggests it was either near Dresden or into the border of what is now North-West Czech Republic or Western Poland. His outfit was 'Schlachtgeschwader 2' who were a close air support group led by Hans-Ulrich Rudel flying the Stuka and later on the FW190. Any information would be appreciated please.
  5. Just finished another project. Polikarpov I-152 (I-15bis) from Special Hobby in 1/48 scale. Building process and more pictures you can see here: https://goo.gl/photos/EWb28Anj2Hx8CUZ77 The model is not for beginners. There were some difficulties, but overall positive experience. The result - one box became less Hope you like it Regards Ivan.
  6. Hi, Next from my Caproni shelf - Caproni Ca 311. Model made from Italeri kit, some interior details added. decals from drawer - markings are from 128 Squadriglia, 61 Gruppo Osservazione Aerea, Corpo di Spedizione Italiano in Russia, Zaporozhe, Ukraine, Nov. 1941. Comments welcome cheers... Jerzy-Wojtek
  7. Just finished this project few days ago. Building process here http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234941996-mig-3-trumpeter-148/ . This model from Trumpeter is really nice. A bit scratch parts plus photoetched from Eduard. Hope you like it
  8. Hi guys! Started another project few days ago. Trumpeter MiG-3 Early version. Nice kit. Also I got Eduard photo etched set for cockpit. Artbox got few books as references With planning to get A. Pokrishkin plane... probably something like this: I know this kit got few mistakes but not critical. Going to change armour back plate on pilot seat and not to use harness straps because no one wartime photo showed it. So, lets go rock and roll Tried to deepen and make thinner pilot's seat First version armour back plate beside original one Progress at the moment. Hope you like it Ivan.
  9. Heres goes another attempt fingers crossed. After Bagration offensive the Soviets go on the offensive towards the Baltic states in order to cutoff the German lines of communications with army group north. Soviets of the 1st, 2nd and 3rd Batlic front with parts of the 3rd Belorussian front armies throw themselves on the against army group north and centre including the famous Grossdeutschland and infamous SS. Germans get caught in pockets the Luftwaffe and german navy attempt to resupply. The Prinze Eugen and her escorts bombard soviet positions, German merchant men bring out German casualties or evacuate troops from pockets. Germans attempt futile a offensives. Tiger II's clash with IS2's and SU100's, Panthers, Panzer IV's, stugs and AFV's take on T-34's ISU-122/152, KV's and lend lease Shermans and other AFV's. Russian Yaks and lend lease fighters take on German FW190's and BF109's. Stuka's and Il-2 strafe and shoot up enemy infantry and armour This battle included 1 546 400 troop, 17 500 artillery pieces 3080 armoured vehicles and 2640 aircraft Russians and 7 300 000 troops 7000 artillery pieces 1 260 armoured vehicles and 400 aircraft. This GB should should be able to cover most modellers interests. Take a dive guys and learn something about the other front. Vehicles, ships and aircraft as long as it was involved in the Baltic offensive. Regards Crossy
  10. Pz.Kpfw 38(t) Ausf E/F 1:16 Panda Hobby The Panzer 38 started life as an inter-war Czech designed medium tank that was co-opted into service by the Nazi war machine when Czechoslovakia was annexed prior to WWII. It's age is exhibited by the comparatively light main armament and the riveted and bolted construction of the armour plates. Additional armour was deemed necessary in German service, which was achieved by the addition of extra plates to the existing armour, rather than replacing the panels, and these were designated as E through to G. Although it was already a fairly old design by the outbreak of WWII in Europe, manufacture continued until 1942, when the realisation that it could not take on the Russian tank of the day, the T-34 dawned upon the designers. Its chassis carried on however, and was used as a Flakpanzer, the well liked (by its crew) Hetzer and the Marder III. Crews said of the drivetrain that it was well-designed for use as well as maintenance, which resulted in a low breakdown rate, with easy repairs when it did fail. Its main use was on the Eastern Front, but it was pulled out of frontline use due to its light armour, and although it continued as a reconnaissance tank, that was the remaining chassis from the 1,400 that has been built were re-tasked in earnest. The Marder III was an attempt to break through the armour of the T-34 with captured 76.2mm Russian guns mounted in open turrets, and this in turn led to the more successful Hezter. The diminutive Hetzer (officially designated Jagdpanzer 38(t)) had a wider chassis and heavier armour in a turretless design, turning it into an effective tank destroyer that became increasingly common right up to the end of the war, with almost 3,000 built. The Kit This is the first kit in Panda's new "Huge Monster Series", as evidenced by the 16001 catalogue number on the end of the box. Even though it is a relatively small tank, the dimensions on the front of the box show a length of 288mm, width of 133mm and height of 144mm, which is handy to know if you're not familiar with the scale. The box is around the same size and proportions as an Airfix Valiant box, just to give you an idea of how it'd fit in your stash - it's a top opening box that is pleasingly heavy, and inside you will find rather a lot of styrene in individual bags. There are eleven sprues in dark grey styrene, seventeen ladder sprues in mid-brown styrene containing the track links, a clear sprue, a sheet of Photo-Etch (PE) brass, a turned aluminium barrel for the main armament, and a sheet of decals for the tank's markings. The instruction booklet is in the form of a narrow A4 and runs to eight pages packed with construction sequences. The painting and marking sheet is A3 and printed in full colour on glossy paper, with a side-profile printed on the rear that could be framed and hung on the wall after use if you're careful with it, and so minded. First impressions are good, and after you stop looking for the hull and realise it is supplied in slab-sections, it is obvious that a lot of detail has been crammed into the parts, including a basic turret interior and full breech. It is also clear that the kit has been made with absolutely no regard for motorisation, which I'm sure will disappoint a few folks, but most will be happy with a static model of this lesser known, but important tank. Slide-moulding has been used where sensible, a turned metal barrel improves the look of the gun immensely, and the individual track links with separate pins have been well done, and have only seams and sprue links to clean up - not an ejector pin in sight. Of course, instruction starts with the drivetrain, and detail here is good. The drive sprockets are made up from two sprocket parts with two hub components coupled to the final drive, and the idler is similarly doubled up to trap the guide-horns, with a track-tensioner axle attached at the rear. The roadwheels are built up in pairs on their suspension arms, which have traditional leaf-springs between the axles. The wheels are separate from the tyres, which will please a lot of folks, and again, the two-part hubs are present. The return-rollers are built from two parts attached to a small stub-axle, and these are then attached to the hull. The hull itself is built up from a base with rolled front section, two side panels, front glacis plate with a large hatch in it, and the rear bulkhead, of which you have a choice of two for E or F models. Once that has set up, the running gear is added using locating pegs & holes in the sides of the hull, along with a bump-stop for the front suspension pair and two return-rollers per side. The fenders are one-piece per side, and run from stem to stern, with folded PE brackets providing extra strength on the real thing. The upper glacis panel is built up from the two layers of armour, and the ball of the bow-mounted MG is trapped between them, with a simple breech added to a socket on the rear of the ball. The muzzle of the 7.92mm ZB-53 gun is hollow thanks to some handy slide-moulding, but its part number is wrong. The vision blocks are shown in the open position, and have small hinges, stays and latches added during construction to finish them off. The upper hull with the turret ring is added next, and here Panda have taken the trouble of putting a highly detailed set of teeth around the aperture, although it will seldom be seen unless you model the tank as knocked-out. The fenders are festooned with pioneer tools, which are very well detailed with more realistic tie-downs when compared to the usual shapeless blocks you see on smaller scale armour. For some reason these steps are repeated in steps 13 and 14, so can be ignored. As mentioned earlier, the barrel of the gun is turned from aluminium and has a hollow barrel for realism. This is clamped between the breech parts, which are built up into a good representation of the 37mm kwK 38(t) L/47.8 cannon, the German version of the original Skoda A7 unit. The coaxial machine gun is also present in another ball-mount, this time trapped behind an internal bezel within the mantlet. This also has a breech identical to the bow-mounted one. Unlike the bow-mounted MG though, the turret coax doesn't have a hollow barrel, but could be quickly drilled out for extra realism if you wished - why they gave us only one hollow barrel is a mystery. The turret has a high cupola for the commander, which has a quartet of clear vision blocks mounted in armoured blocks every 90o around the hatch. This is added to the roof of the slide-moulded turret part, which lines up with the four sections of the inner hatch wall moulded into the turret. Additional sighting is achieved by a periscope that sits just forward of the commander's cupola on the port side. The underside of the turret with its cut-out is glued inside the turret shell, and a pair of jump-seats are added on tubular brackets for the gunner and commander. The aft deck is fairly empty, save for one grille that has a PE mesh panel installed over it to stop debris and grenades from finding their way inside. The exhaust is on the rear bulkhead, and is cylindrical with input and exhaust tubes on either end. Attached to that is a shroud for the input pipe, and on the rear of the cylindrical section is a box that is intended for smoke candles, set on a bracket. Additional track links are added to the fenders, and here the repeated construction steps start to take their toll. Clearly there were other steps that have been missed out during production of the booklet, as there is a large sloped sided box on the starboard fender behind the jack-block, and yet it is not mentioned in the instructions until it magically appears on the back page. It's a shame, as it's a nicely done perforated piece, which has benefited from some slide-moulding to make it in one piece. The jack fits across the top of it in a pair of recessed, and this is also ignored in the instructions. A length of spare track also appears on the underside of the bow, with no word of how it is affixed, although I have a hunch that part E50 has a hand in it. Oops! I'm sure that this will be corrected now it's known, but in the meantime, a little guesswork will be required, and some reference to reference photos to see how it goes together. Oddly for a tank, the tracks are not covered until the very last step, almost as an afterthought. In a scrap diagram the links are shown being glued together, and you are told that you need 186 of them, which I assume will mean 93 per side. The track pins that are provided in large quantities on the side of each track sprue aren't mentioned however, but most tracks seem to be assembled with an open or closed pin, which are both supplied, six of each on each sprue. You'll need to check your references to see which one goes where, so take care when assembling them. The last act is to add the turret and some small PE parts to the upper hull, and place the communications aerial on the bow plate on its bracket that attaches to the port corner. Markings Decals forfour options are supplied in the box on a medium sized sheet that has been printed in China. Printing is nicely done, with minimal carrier film between the numerals, although there is a slight registration error between the black and white colours, so you'll need to trim the ends of some of the balkenkreuz (German crosses). From the box you can build one of the following machines: "525" Pz. Regiment 25 of the 7th Pz. Division, Russia 1942 - overall Panzer Grey "833" Pz. Regiment 204 of the 22nd Pz. Division, Crimea 1941-2 - overall Panzer Grey "522" Pz. Regiment 204 of the 22nd Pz. Division, Crimea 1941-2 - overall Panzer Grey "1003" Pz. Regiment 25 of the 7th Pz. Division, Russia winter 1941-2 - overall Panzer Grey with a worn white distemper overcoat Conclusion As someone that has recently been introduced to the world of 1:16 armour, I'm very pleased to see this kit, and it bodes well for the next and subsequent kits in this scale from Panda. Detail is excellent, just as you would hope with the increase in scale, and even the most hardened adherent to rubber-band tracks will be able to deal with these nice big links, although having to research where the pins go is a minor pain. Of larger concern is the mistake in the instructions, as less experienced modellers might struggle to figure out where the unmentioned parts go, and may not even realise that they are missed, resulting in an incomplete tank. Hopefully Panda will come out with a downloadable addendum for those that have the incorrect instructions, but it's a mistake that could have easily been averting by proofing or even a test build following the instructions. Somewhere along the line, the copy & paste machine took a wrong turn. Don't let that put you off the kit though - it's well done and highly detailed. We shall have to wait for the P38(t) experts to pick over the fine details to hear more about the accuracy of the shape when built, and to find out whether there are any smaller details that need working on, as is so often the case with any older, and even some of the newer tank designs where production was in a constant state of change from month to month. If you've not tried 1:16 armour before, this would make a great introduction, as the finished product is relatively compact, and the detail is that of a model kit, rather than a well-detailed toy. It deserves to do well. Highly recommended. Welsh Dragon Models are hoping to have amongst the first stocks in the UK soon. Review sample courtesy of and available soon from major hobby shops
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