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Found 112 results

  1. Hi ! Building a 1/32 scale Luftwaffe diorama with a large hanger. I'm about to paint the hanger but need some colour references. I can se in a lot of ww2 pictures the hangers and some service buildings är painted in camo patterns, but of course, I can't se what colors. Some help to get color reference would be great ! Regards Stefan from Sweden
  2. Hello folks! Well, this is going to be my first attempt at a simple sea diorama (EEP!!), and I would appreciate any tips and techniques from you lovely people (unashamed groveling). These kits are great value and lend themselves to improvement so out with the platicard and don the thinking cap! Wasn't happy with the size and positioning of the round windows (yes, watch playschool!), and hull needs detailing etc so filled in the scuttles (smarty pants) and so the adventure begins... The etch was purchased from a hobby shop in Poland at a reasonable cost. Thanks for looking, Andy
  3. Hi here is my last diorama spitfire mk 1 from airfix (oldest mold) albion refueller and figures from airfix (BoB kit)
  4. So after 18 months of on and off again progress on these Airfix Hurricane's, the 249 Squadron build is finally completed. Info on the pilots below: F/O Percival Ross-Frames “Percy” Burton 6 June 1917- 27 September 1940 Pilot Battle of Britain. Service number 74348. 1 Confirmed air victory 249 Squadron Church Fenton 1940 Hawker Hurricane MK1 V6683 (GN-H) On the morning of September 27th 1940 the squadron engaged a formation of Me110’s of V/LG1. The Hurricanes broke the Germans’ two defensive circles and the enemy aircraft went south at low level, heading for the Channel. Burton pursued one of the 110’s for about forty miles, often at little more than treetop height, but the German pilot, the Gruppe Kommandeur of V/LGI, Hauptmann Horst Liensberger, was unable to shake him off. Just north of Hailsham, Burton’s guns stopped firing (presumably due to being out of ammunition) and the two aircraft skimmed over the rooftops. The Hurricane, V6883, was above and behind the Me110. Burton suddenly banked and made whatappeared to be an attack. Both machines lurched and an object spun away. The tail unit of the110 dropped into a field, followed by the rest of the aircraft. The falling object was the wingtip of Burton’s Hurricane. His aircraft crashed into a huge oak tree on New Barn Farm, throwing its dead pilot clear and burning itself out in a field. The German crew were buried in Hailsham Cemetery but were exhumed after the war and buried elsewhere. Burton is buried in St Andrew’s churchyard, Tangmere. Eye-witness reports indicate strongly that he deliberately rammed the Me110. A letter from Fighter Command to the Hailsham ARP Chief said that Burton was to be recommended for a posthumous gallantry award. This could only have been the VC but in fact he only received a Mention in Despatches due to a VC being awarded to the squadron a few weeks earlier. He was promoted from Pilot Officer to Flying Officer 26/9/40. In 1980 a road on a housing estate near to the site of the crash site was named ‘Burton Walk’ in his memory. P/O James Reginald Bryan Meaker DFC 19 January 1919- 27 September 1940 Pilot Battle of Britain. Service number 42514. 7 Confirmed air victories 46 Squadron Digby & 249 Squadron Church Fenton 1940 Hawker Hurricane MK1 P5206 (GN-L) On 24th February 1940 Meaker was posted to 12 Group Pool Aston Down, to convert to Hurricanes. It was around this time he was involved in a mid air collision with another squadron member though both pilots baled out successfully. He joined 46 Squadron at Digby on 31st March. After a short spell on flying duties at 27 MU, Meaker was posted to 263 Squadron at Scapa Flow on 4th May. The squadron’s Gladiators were loaded on to HMS Furious, which sailed for Norway on 14th May. They were unloaded on the 21st and began standing patrols. The squadron was withdrawn on 7th June and Meaker returned to Britain by sea. Meaker joined 249 Squadron at Leconfield in late June. On 15th August Meaker claimed a Me110 destroyed, on the 24th a Me109, on 2nd September he destroyed a Me110, shared a Do17 and damaged another, on the 6th destroyed two Me109’s and on the 15th he destroyed two Do17’s, shared a probable Do17 and damaged a Me109. On the morning of 27th September 1940, J.R.B Meaker shared in the destruction of a Me110 in the same engagement that led to the demise of his squadron mate P.R.F Burton. Later that afternoon in a separate engagement while attacking a group of five JU-88’s on his own, his plane was hit by defensive fire and upon bailing out, his head struck the tail section of his Hurricane P3834 and he fell dead with an unopened parachute. Meaker is buried in West Dean Cemetery, Sussex. He was awarded the DFC (gazetted 8th October 1940). In 1990 a memorial was placed near the spot where he was killed
  5. Building 1/72 control tower based on US 8th Airforce Museum in Ohio (actual recreated RAF conrtol tower) - I am having issues determining how to create the pebble dash effect on the sheet styrene; Any thoughts? sand? Golden pumice gel?
  6. Hi all, here is the final reveal for the 1/12 Halcyon Power Loader and 1/12 Halcyon Alien Queen Diorama. For the third and final segment I built the base from MDF (Medium density fibreboard) with some 2mm aluminium checker plate for RC trucks, which I added to the floor and another rotary light in red. I also used some Trumpeter decal trays for the grills and loading deck with some LED strip lights inside them. The Queens Vinyl legs are solid inside, but I have been warned by a fellow modeller that they can sag, so I drilled them out and added some cotton bud sticks coated in epoxy. This seems to have a made them now solid. The diorama also fits perfectly on my coffee table! Finally, you can see the work in progress of my build here.
  7. Star Wars Hangar Crew & Equipment 1:72 GreenStrawberry That low-budget cult classic from LucasFilm is back again, this time with accessories to liven up any diorama that you may wish to create with your massive stash of Bandai kits, or indeed any other 1:72 Star Wars kit. Thinking of it, they'd be pretty useful with any 1:72 Sci-Fi model, with maybe a little adjustment to remove any of the more obvious Star Wars design cues. Each set arrives in a small card box, with the figures in a tiny ziplok bag, a sheet of instructions where necessary doing the job of protecting them from rattling about too much too. The detail is good (remember that they're blown up to approx. 5x real size on my screen), with the casting blocks sensibly placed and a few wisps of flash from where the moulds have been cut to enable casting of parts with gaps, such as legs etc. The range is expanding as we speak (type?), and this is just the first of the range, as follows: Hangar Crew Vol.I (72001) Pilot with mechanics on inspection Containing three figures, two of which have one separate arm, and one having two separate arms, you get a rather heroic-looking moustachioed pilot figure with chest out and a wide stance, a chap with the SW equivalent of a clipboard perusing same, and the third chap is stooping whilst possibly leaning against something. Hangar Crew Vol.II (72002) A-Wing and Y-Wing pilots Three resin pilots discussing tactics or previous battles using the tried-and-tested method involving hands and the waving around thereof. One pilot is kneeling, and has a separate arm, while the others are standing and gesticulating in their flight gear. All three have the requisite helmets for their rides – two Y-wing jockeys and one A-Wing flier. Hangar Crew Vol.III (72003) mechanics and power droid A 1:72 Gonk droid! Sure, you get two mechanics, one striding toward something, the other kneeling to inspect something with his monster clipboard, but you also get a 1:72 Gonk Droid! He's made up of top and bottom halves, plus a pair of little short legs with tissuebox feet. Awesome! Hangar Equipment Vol.III (06718-1/72) This is a simple set that just requires the casting blocks sawing off and making good. It contains four items commonly found in hangars in the Star Wars universe. An inexpertly stacked block of those funny Holocron-shaped packing cubes, a large ribbed box, a smaller stackable "monitor stand" box, and a bundle of cylinders on a palette. Conclusion This will take much of the hard work out of building a layered diorama of a hangar bay, as it's usually the background objects and their candid nature that makes for a good diorama. There is also a Maintenance ramp that will look superb in the background, which we hope to review soon. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  8. The Battlle of Britain was, when I was a kid, already something mythological. These brave men, with the magnificent Spitfires and Hurricanes, who defended the last free place in Europe against the Nazi war machine. Growing older, I realised how much human effort went in to this battle. Reading more about the men, you come to understand that with this great victory and the magnificent machines, the toll on them was immense. I want to honour those men (in my own humble way) by building an Airfix Spitfire, but as a part of a diorama. I am fascinated by the photos of waiting pilots, ready to scramble. So, to complement the Spit, I'll try to build a small vignette of airmen waiting for the scramble to sound. I might fail in this, but I hope it will be a small reminder of the Few, of which so many ow so much. Next post I hope to add some pictures, still working out that since the Photobucket-disaster...
  9. My idea here is this is a young Mara Jade and her trusty driod an the run from one of the Huts henchmen on distant desert planet, a long time ago in galaxy far far away. The pictures are in a bit of a random order and one or two of my SW driods. Hope you like it as always any comments and feedback is Wellcome. Cheers Brian. Adding this one because I like it, I don't have any fancy photo editing stuff just MS paint.
  10. I am new to modelling, but not new to being creative. My background, as a young lad, was diesel mechanic, welder, and avionics (RAAF). Past 20 years has been in counselling (no hand skills required). Then, out of the blue, I got roped into, by the local maritime museum, to convert an antiquated lift-span bridge console to operate a model bridge. Then I discovered that they had no model bridge and nobody to build one. Then I found out that the museum is totally run by volunteers. So I end up volunteering to build a model bridge which can be operated by the real bridge's original console (1964-1995), and have the bridge set in a diorama display of 2400 x 1200 mm (8 x 4 feet). Yes, I have to build the diorama too. I have been doing this for several months now. I am still a long way from completion. My plan here is to post photos of progress by piecemeal. Both the console and bridge lack available schematic diagrams and drawn plans. So the whole modelling aspect will have to be scratch-built. As a result, I had to extrapolate the bridge measurements from numerous photographs, reverse engineer the console, and figure out how to operate the bridge. The current bridge operator was not allowed to tell how to operate the bridge, but was able to tell me what each switch did. From this information it took me a while to figure out the operating sequence. It is not a simply matter of raising and lowering the lift-span. There is much to consider in terms of safety, and in controlling the foot, road, and vessel traffic even before raising the bridge. Anyway, the first few months was spent in compiling the information needed. Then draw up plans (bridge) and schematic diagrams (electronics) for myself to follow. Actually I still have some unfinished problems to solve. The whole bridge fits nicely within the 8 foot width using a 1/72 scale. Here is a photo of the actual bridge: The console as it arrived at the museum: Proposed display layout: Yes, there will be a model boat traversing under the raised bridge-span. It is hoped that the museum display will be interactive by the visitors (mature or not). Meaning, that the display operations need to be, as far as possible, child-proof. The last thing the museum wants is someone purposefully lowering the bridge on the traversing boat . Or any other possible out-of-sequence operations. This has become a major headache for me. Finally, as an introduction, the museum is a non-profit organisation, so it has limited funding. My task then is to build this display as cheap, yet in good quality, as possible. So please excuse my choices of materials to do the task. Both the museum curator and president as given my free rein to do this project, which is great, because I work best without a boss. Though this project seemed daunting to me, I had also found it very satisfying to see it progress along. Hope you will also enjoy watching this work in progress.
  11. Hi everyone, this is my next diorama project. I've had these kits in my stash for a few years, but having completed the Space Jockey build, I thought now would be a great time to get this project started. Hoping to get the Power Loader finished first, before I start on Her Majesty!
  12. I have an excellent diorama book that suggests using real soil, but of course soil is organic (as in 'containing living matter' rather than the veg that's twice the price in Waitrose) so to answer the following questions, I did a few experiments. Would it help to heat/cook it first? It is better to sprinkle the soil onto a bed of PVA, or mix it with PVA and apply it as a paste? Would there be a problem using static grass with it? I received some excellent suggestions from other BM members that managed to push me in the right direction, then I went digging in the garden. After removing the larger stones, planty bits etc. it got portioned out into foil takeaway containers. After suffering the slings and arrows of outrageous sarcasm from the females of the house, I loaded up the cooker. Recipe for cooking garden: Pre heat the oven to 200 degrees (gas mark – how should I know!). Cook for 20 minutes, then leave to cool before tasting. The cooking kills any bacteria and other micro-whatsits so I'm not sure if this is suitable for the Buddhists amongst you. It also dries the soil to make it much easier to sieve. At this point I remembered that I don't have a sieve and I didn't want to use anything that was also used for food (can you imagine the ear-ache? ). I immediately had to ignore the thoughts that Mrs Gorby's cocktail shaker would be perfect, as the result would be a lot more messy for me than the shaker. After a look around and straining the think muscles, I used my wire paintbrush holder for the initial thinning down, using the handle of a small hammer to grind the soil through the holes. Please note: this is a very, very messy process and produces a LOT of soil dust. Doing it by my airbrush wasn't one of my best ideas. Then I used a large tea infuser (which is too big to go in our current teapot) to sieve it to it's final state. Even more dust! On the left is the soil after the first sieving, and the final stuff on the right. Using a suitable board (with the surface sanded to provide a key) I spread some slightly thinned PVA (to save me having to say it every time, when I mention PVA, it's 'slightly thinned with water') and using the tea infuser, scattered copious amounts of soil. When it dried, the thickness of the soil was patchy and too thin, so I used spray adhesive over the top and scattered more soil. This is the 'before': Note: don't use spray adhesive. The surface began to bubble excessively. I had to puncture all the bubbles and then roll the surface flat. But at least the soil thickness was acceptable now. If you need to add more soil, wait for the first bit to dry, then use a brush to spread the PVA over the top. Next experiment: I mixed soil with some PVA, making sure that there was quite a high ratio of soil to PVA, then spread it on the surface of the board with an old scrapper (quite a satisfy process) trying to make it look as natural as I could. After a couple of hours this is the result. As you can see the sprinkled soil is much lighter – more like the soil in the garden. The mixed and spread soil is significantly darker – more like mud.... but… After drying for 24 hours it lightened significantly, so it is possible that it will eventually match the sprinkled soil. Next experiment: Static grass. Please ignore the awful colour of the 'grass', that's why I'm using it for these tests. Spreading some PVA onto half the previous samples and the area between using a two inch brush, I applied the grass in the usual way. Then immediately turned the board over and whacked the loose grass off and tided the excess away, as quick as I could. Then using the tea infuser, I sprinkled more soil over the grass. Then left it to dry. Previously when I've done static grass, the end result looks a bit…. Ereerm…. A bit balding and just false, so I hoped that sprinkling the soil would make it a little more natural looking. That was the point of the, previously empty, centre section of my test piece. It definitely looks better with the sprinkled soil. Conclusion: If you want the surface to be as flat as a bowling green, then apply the grass onto the bare board and sprinkle soil when the PVA is still wet. If you want the surface to be reasonably flat, but a little more natural looking, apply the grass over the soil sprinkled on the PVA, and then sprinkle more soil over the grass. If you want a more control over the ruggedness of the surface, mix the soil with PVA and spread it on the surface before doing the grass and soil sprinkle thing. Final experiment: Changing the colour of the soil (making mud pies). I mixed some Tamiya gloss black (X-1) with the PVA to see if I could make mud. I can't remember where I heard or read it, but someone said that mud isn't glossy, but when I look at mud, it looks glossy to me. Even though I used gloss paint, the soil/PVA mix dried quite matt, so I sprayed half with gloss to compare the effect. Personally I think the glossed area looks more like wet mud. ************************************************************************************************** Further dirty adventures… @dcrfan mentioned that if the soil is too finely sieved, it lacks the character of real soil. A very good point which leads me to another experiment. The rejected stuff from the first sieving was discarded as the bits were quite big (certainty in 1/48 scale), but the stuff that didn't make the grade on the second sieving, I kept in case it would come in useful. I spread a very generous amount of PVA and scattered an even more generous amount of the coarser stuff and the fine soil mixed together, then quite gently pressed it into the PVA with the side of hand to bed it into the glue. It was left for about half an hour before I shook off the excess. To my eyes this was an immediate improvement over the smooth soil. Would the difference in texture be completely hidden buy static grass though? Keep tuned. Part two: Some of the coarser stuff and the fine soil was mixed together and then mixed with PVA to make a muddy paste. But the process of troweling it onto the surface, pushed the gritter bits below the surface hiding them completely. So I had to resort to scattering the coarser bits over the surface and lightly pressing them part way in. I pressed them in because stones aren't always on the surface of soil, they usually seem to be partly buried. I'm not so sure that this looks as natural as the soil that was scattered on PVA, but it still looks better then the smooth stuff in my opinion, so thanks Dcrfan. The colour is uneven because it has only had 24 hours to dry. On my planned diorama I would like to do an smallish earth embankment (about 1/48 chest height) so I troweled the stuff on reasonably thick (about 4 to 5mm) and as you can see, it has cracked quite badly as it has dried, so I'm either going to have to use lots of shallower layers or use something underneath, with just a thinnish layer of soil on the top. Static grass: Putting static grass over the top completely hides the 'improvements' to the soil. I scattered some coarse soil over the grass while the PVA was still wet, but most of the lumpy bits fell off (maybe not enough PVA). Just sprinkling a few coarse bits over the grass did improve it a bit, but obviously they are loose. Having said that, the completed dio is unlikely to be turned on its side or upside down, so if it's kept level, the grass should do quite a good job of keeping the gritty bits in place. The photos below is before the gritty bits were added. If anyone has any ideas for improvements or further experiments I'd be very interested Thanks for looking and I hope this has helped. I'd be interested to hear your views or comments. Gorby
  13. Hi, I am currently working on a starwars diorama. I have two storm troopers from Bandai made up and in need of a little weathering but not much. I would like it to eventually look like the rogue one promo shots with the troopers wading through a tropical ocean. I have made up a base from MDF, covered in polyfiller and then sprinkled with sand and small pieces of gravel. It looks like this at the moment: My next steps are to paint the base, as I would like it a lot lighter than what it is now, and then pour epoxy, water clear resin after I have built up the sides with styrene to simulate the water. I have never used resin and I would be gutted if this went bad, so what should I worry about. Do I need to put a clear coat on the painted sand base? Will the acrylic paint or even the sand lift because of the Resin? I know I have to pour the Resin in stages and have researched a lot, but have realised I know nothing of how it will react with the other media. All ideas and advise welcome as always. Thanks for looking. Chris.
  14. This is a build I finished a while ago, but I thought I would bring you along in the building process. And share the final result. I started with the interior, nothing fancy only some green paint. Then the two halves was sealed together and some panel lines rescribed, Until this point everything was going as normal. But then my twisted imagination started working more of this later
  15. Hello there! About to start a new project here and I thought I would share every step with you. I have the intention of building all the new Tamiya kits that come out and I finding a way to integrate them into a (hopefully) cool diorama. The first kit in line is the Tamiya 1/48 SS-100 German Heavy Tractor. The build of that kit will be available soon on the thread for military vehicles. I made the decision that this diorama would take place at the Bologna airfield in 1944 because it is possible that the particular SS-100 I'm going to build was stationed there along with the recon Me109's of NAGr.11. So I had a SS-100 from a Flak unit and an me 109, now how to integrate them into an appealing diorama. Well, here is what I came up with so far, tell me what you think of it. Pretty packed scene, have to see if it's too much in the end or not. I'd be glad to recieve any criticism from any of you and will post future updates here once the diorama gets going. In the meantime I'll be giving regular updates on the German Tractor build on the other thread. Kind regards, Jack
  16. Railway Tools & Equipment (35572) 1:35 MiniArt via Creative Models Dioramas thrive on ancillary items that lend an air of realism, where the devil really is in the detail. There are plenty of 1:35 railway engines out there or various eras (mostly WWII from what I've seen), and scratch-building the equipment specific to railways is a chore, as would be the research to get things right. This little figure-sized box from MiniArt contains all that hard work, and all you have to do is glue them together and apply a little paint. The box contains seven small sprues of grey styrene, and two individual parts in clear and red styrene. The build and painting guide is on the rear of the box along with a sprue map, as well as a paint conversion chart in Vallejo, Mr.Color, LifeColor, Tamiya, Testors, AK, Humbrol, Revell, and Mission Models, plus the names of the colours in English and Ukrainian (that's a guess, but a fair one). Each sprue contains parts for a particular item, which consists of a wheel barrow-like trolley, two spare sleepers/track ties, two sizes of bucket, a lamp with clear & red lenses, a set of grips, fire extinguisher and blow torch. There are also a bunch of other single part tools that require no construction, with shovels, axes, hammers and an oil can amongst the sprues, which you can see in the photos. Moulding is excellent, as is the detail, with proper engraved wood grain on the wooden parts of the trolley and sleepers. Just the sort of thing found in corners around railway and other engineering locations. Review sample courtesy of
  17. Diorama bases for modeling projects 1:35 AV Vallejo Scenics via Creative Models It would seem that along with other products vallejo are now making bases for modellers to sit their models on. These are in 1:35 and are aimed (presently) at the armour modeller. The bases are made from some form of resin material and arrive in s sturdy card box unpainted. Cobblestone Street Section (SC103) This is 31cm x 21cm and features a cobblestone street section typical of Europe. Not sure why they have not kept this square along the front edge? Wooden Airfield Section (SC102) This is 31cm x 21cm and features a wooden plank airfield surface. section. Despite being an airfield section its really designed for vehicles being 1:35 and not really large enough for a 1:32 aircraft. Paved Street Section (SC001) This is 14cm x 14cm and features a paved street section. Its not that big for 1:35 and will only fit a Armoured car / Bren Gun carrier, or a few troops. The road is also a little narrow Conclusion These are another line of products if you want something to sit your model on. The crux though will be in the painting of them to get the right look. Review samples courtesy of
  18. This model has been on the go since Autumn last year. It was initially inspired by my Grandson and daughters trip form Barra to Glasgow Airport last Summer. I was going to model it taking off from the sands..... There aren't any decals for the latest Highlands and Islands aircraft ie saltire Flag on the tail. The revell kit is basic and basically doesn't go to together well. I added rows of seats, passengers (it is just possible to see my grandson peeping out of the window) and cut the flaps and ailerons as they might have been positioned for takeoff. Then the heartaches began. I made after much effort, seats and painting and gluing passengers one with a Celtic and Rangers shirts actually couldn't be seen! the centreline join took loads of time sanding and filling to remove the join between the nose cone and fuselage like wise, the join of the engine nacelles to the wings, the join of the front windscreen to the fuselage. In fact most joins needed filling and sanding. I bought the masks for the windows and on placing one of these pushed a window into the fuselage never to be seen again. Another kit was bought and the missing window replaced. I had the great idea of loading "liquid gravity" into the nose via a hole created and sealing i place with spare humbrol gloss. Hung upside down in the airing cupboard to settle and set. the ballast came up the front windscreen, I attempted to remove this via the pilots window but couldn't. replaced the pilots side window with too much glue. removed the co-pilots door and removed further ballast but was unable. Removed the front windscreen and replaced it from the second bought kit. Re positioned the door open. The setting was now..... about to move off after collecting the passengers. 4-5 attempts to paint white failed.sanding between coats, eventually after a bottle of wine I decided it was going to get the full blast of Halfords Appliance white. That laid the white down! The masking began more time on the computer and using photoshop to scale up down and skew so i could cut some masks. The masking and airbrushing on the tail went well - Yippee. The masking on the fuselage did not with the glue from the mask sticking irremovabley to the white. Further baby wipes and turps. The wings by now had an-hedral! The wing struts went on. The masks came off and I had failed to mask one of the windows! The wheels went on using brass tubing to reinforce (6yr old grandson proofing!), cemented in place with epoxy! The day after stopping the project the wheels collapsed at where the brass tubing ended! more super glue. The diorama went ok until I decided to try and put some puddles into it and nothing I tried worked...it now looked worse than if I had just left it at this point! I presented it at my local model club, Edinburgh and the hand made transfers G- HIAL 3 letters cam off on one side! I had no spare letters and replaced them with felt pen!!! At most stages I wanted to accidentally sit and crush this model giving me the excuse to abandon but this never happened. It is now with the Royal Mail and I hope my grandson enjoys the model and remembers what a wonderful holiday me, my partner, grandson, daughter and a Briard dog had in a camper van on the Western Isles last Summer. If I never see this model again I wont be bothered and if my grandson breaks it, uses it as target practice, sets it on fire.... at least he will have had some pleasure from this model. DSC07085 by tim knowles, on Flickr
  19. For a club competition it was anything by Dragon. I hadn't done a vessel set in water. I couldn't find the HMS Dragon kkit so used the Daring kit and made Decals from photos on the real vessel. I really enjoyed this build especially the sea scape. The bow wave was really difficult but got some way towards creating it in model form. The waves at the stern could have been better but there comes a time when enough is enough. The base waves were created using the video on youtube Basic Water bases for ship models by Sean Fallesen https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqtcT_s0uOQ This was modified by placing the metal foil over polystyrene layers placed as sets of waves, then painted with black, turquoise and blue. This was somewhat difficult due to my red green blue purple colour blindness... Tim K
  20. It's possible you've seen me building a couple of Royal Class Fw.190As, one of which is bereft of engine panels and will have its prop off in a bit of a maintenance thing going on. It's a desert camo aircraft with tropical filter, but I'm finding very little pictorial evidence of the kind of equipment used for this task. I've seen some Erks (Luftwaffe equivalent) putting a prop back on using brute force and ignorance without a tail-trestle or hoist, but I belive that was the usual technique. My Google-Fu has deserted me, and I'm either not searching on the correct terms, or the equipment is still Top Secret. Can anyone oblige with some evidence for me, so I can scratch build some gear to lend the build a little authenticity? TIA
  21. I've just seen this mini-diorama on FB and think it is absolutely awesome.
  22. Hello I finished the diorama in September of last year. The Kit is Italeri with the C.M.R engine detail set and Eduard photoetch set added. Various other munitions and stowage sets were used over the course of the project. The build article was in issue 81 of Airfix scale model world magazine.
  23. I've been modelling for over 45 years, building models ranging from 1/1200 to 1/3 scales, however this build isn't my story, I'm just the narrator. This build is actually my daughter's work! Now before you start imagining, fingerprints, glue blobs and paint runs and skip to another build thread, the finished model was finished to a high standard and sold for a healthy profit!!! My daughter will be eight years old shortly, and has now been modelling for half her life! She was always handy with scissors, sellotape and glue from a very young age, so I decided to see just how capable she was. I was pleasantly surprised by the results. Her first model build was started when she was just 3 years 11 month old; a Revell Red Arrows Hawk. It was completed five months later with a lot of guidance from me, but much of the work done by her. Build sessions were limited to about 30 minutes due to her concentration span, but gradually she put together a very respectable model. Here's the finished item. In the Autumn of 2014, with the dark nights coming fast, I decided it was time for another build. She was almost five, so I decided on something a little more ambitious; we would go for a diorama! I opted for the Airfix RAF Battle of Britain set as the price was reasonable and the aircraft, tankers, figures and base could each be separate projects, or all worked on while glue and paint dried on other parts. The aircraft wouldn't be finished in BoB colours however, as my daughter wanted a pink aeroplane, so this was going to be a PR Pink Spitfire. We went to the model shop and fortunately they had the set in stock. We came home with a big box, some extra paint and a happy child. This is her Spitfire story.
  24. This model was completed in January this year after a two year build, started just before her 5th birthday. It came from the old Airfix Airfield Diorama set. The full story of the build is shown in the link below, but for those who don't want to read the whole build thread, here's just a few of the completed pictures. Build thread - http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235029483-spitfire-prig-diorama-with-a-twist-172-scale/ With nowhere to keep and display it, she said she had enjoyed the built, but agreed we'd try and sell it. The model was framed and sold, with the profits buying several new lego sets.
  25. Here's photo setup of my Revell B-26 along with various other kits incorporated to create an airfield scene. Airfix, Academy, Hasegawa, Preiser and after market kits were used.
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