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I am not sure if this is posted in the right place but here goes lol. I have a little Corgi Diecast Model Spitfire "Neville Duke". Its the small size ones that I got years ago I love it due to the desert markings on it even though its mostley a toy.. I keep it on my desk beside my PC, I dropped it and the stand broke off. Its about 8cm long X 10cm wide Does anyone know where i can get replacement stands? I found these on Amazon but not sure if they would do. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Airfix-Small-Aircraft-Display-Assorted/dp/B0064LS1ZU/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=aircraft+stands&qid=1610028986&s=kids&sr=1-4 Thanks

This will be my first WIP on here and also my first attempt at detailing up a die cast, it’s going to be a slow one too, summers around the corner and the wife has a large list of jobs around the garden and house. Just a warning. As I said in another thread on the Discussion board, I have always loved the 917 and particularly the JW Engineering run Gulf team, predictable I know but after seeing the movie Le Mans who couldn’t love the blue and orange cars? I used to be a dyed in the wool aircraft modeller but turned to building cars in 1/12th scale a couple of years ago and my aim is to try and produce a collection of models of cars that I saw race in the 70’s, or if I didn’t see the car then cars driven by drivers I had seen or met in that period. Having stated that, I never saw a 917 in action 😞 until the Festival of Speed a few years ago and I never saw Jo Siffert in action (mores the pity) but I did see Brian Redman drive in period, and I did go to the cinema in 1971/72 to see Le Mans! With that bit of background, on to the model. I just can’t justify to myself, let alone my wife, spending north of £500 for the MFH kit. I know it would be a superb product but now I’m getting old I don’t have quite the patience to slog on with that type of model, so I’ve also given up on ever buying or building a Pocher kit! I like the opportunity to detail and improve the old Tamiya F1 kits, this is my effort with a Ferrari flat 12 from Laudas 312T So wanting a 917 I thought that a 1/12 die cast might produce a good kerb side model with a few detail tweeks to please my modellers eye and give me some build satisfaction. Now diecasts of this size are not so cheap either, around £200 but a few weeks ago I happened upon an eBay sale of a CMR 1/12 Porsche 917, it was a buy it now or best offer and I put in a lower offer and it was accepted, so for £70 I had a slightly damaged 917, it was the #20 Gulf le Mans car, famed in film by Steve McQueen. I know nothing about CMR but it looked the part and not costing me a fortune meant it could be taken apart relatively painlessly, so here’s what I got. Now I got some helpful comments in my first thread, thanks @klubman01 and @Schwarz-Brot . The model is quite well finished but is typical diecast with some too large details. So a list of modifications I have so far is - 1) the main problem is the model does not have the roof mounted, rearward facing vent – This going to require some scratch building and will therefore entail some degree of a repaint. Not overly happy about that, I was hoping to avoid that as there seems to be no aftermarket decal sheet in 1/12th scale. 2) the model doesn’t have holes for the electric cut out switch pull on the left side behind the door and there is a corresponding hole on the right but I’m not sure what that is. There are transfers indicating these on the model but they don’t cut it for me. 3) add detail around the exposed gearbox/back axle, these can be improved, add oil piping and maybe replace some of the chassis strut work with more in scale brass tube? Detail the suspension. 4) rear deck flip up spoilers are too “up in the air” for the race setting and are missing the adjustable legs at the rear. 5) interior detailing can be improved with wiring to the ignition boxes on the firewall, piping to the extinguisher, better seat belts, additional fuse box on the n/s under the dash, detailing the dash panel, add interior mirror etc. 6) finesse the wiper arm assembly. 7) modify the racing number lights to the correct pattern 😎 put wrinkled clear plastic over the headlights and tape them for headlamp protectors rather than just the model’s black decal. 9) Improve and finesse the brakes and wheels. 10) make the exterior paintwork less “diecast”, as suggested by @Schwarz-Brot this may just be emphasising shut lines and toning down the shininess, I’m looking for suggestions here. I’m hoping others may have more ideas as we go forward as I’m no subject matter expert and only a very novice car builder. Last thing before I end this introduction – do I make the race car or the movie car? There are subtle differences. All comments and ideas welcome. Dave

This was a little project I've had on the go for the last year. It is a Corgi Rolls-Royce Corniche that was either an eBay or car boot sale cheap buy; I think I wanted one when I was younger but never got my hands on one. I was inspired by various YouTube diecast restorations. A couple of before photos. And after. I wasn't sure I could match the metallic paint, so I went for solid Vauxhall burgundy, which I rather like. It took a while to get a good finish but some micromesh and polishing compound (not at the same time) brought it up lovely. I also managed to fill and rebuild the front number plate and driving lamp. I wasn't keen on the original interior colour, so I changed that with some enamel paint, chrome detailing was added with Molotow pen except for the wheel centres, which are silver sharpie.

Inspired by the recent posts by @adey m I have decided to upload my own conversions of diecast models. These are generally known as Code 3 models, something not created by the original manufacturer. The Corgi TSR-2 is a lovely, solid piece of metal and displays really well. All my conversions were of what-ifs had the aircraft entered service. Every model was a commission build. It;s quite sad that I have none myself. Phil

It was in a sorry state when I got it in for "repairs". There was Super Glue everywhere, missing parts, the A pillars were bent. Took everything apart (worst experience ever, most of the parts were superglued together) and began scraping and sanding away the glue. Managed to get the pillars in the correct position, when I did that I found that the windshield had been sanded on the edges to fit the bent pillars (Lord knows why). The owner bought a cheaper version of this model and sent me a brand new windshield (which needed some modifications because the cheaper model isn't actually in scale). 2 of the original wheels were missing so the owner bought a 3D printed set of BMW Style 176. 2 of the exhaust tips were missing as well so I grabbed some nickel plated brass tube (from an FM antenna) and took care of that issue. I used Mr. Surfacer 1200 for everything that needed priming, the body was painted in Mr. Color Russian Green 2; the wheels were painted with Agama Gun Metal (metallic paste), AK's Polished Aluminium for the exhaust and some blacks for the window seals, engine compartment etc. I do apologize for the picture quality, sadly I had about half an hour between the last finish touches and the personal delivery to the owner.

Yes, I realize it's not a plastic model, just thought I'd show you the chameleon paints on something other than figures The original paint was flattened, corrected some nasty mold lines, gave it a coat of Mr. Surfacer 1200, a coat of Mr. Color 92 followed by Green Stuff's Tropical Green. The chromed parts were cleaned up and done in AK's Gunmetal (trims, exhaust etc). Everything was sealed with Mr. Color GX112. The video shows the paint's distinctive characteristics better than any photo could.

Whilst waiting for paint to fully harden off on my next project (Monogram’s Li’l Coffin’), I decided to have a go at giving an old diecast toy a makeover. It started life as a Majorette VW Red Cross vehicle, but over the years of being played with by my eldest son it soon became a shabby wreck. Fast forward 30+ years and it’s been stripped and airbrushed with Tamiya paints with a fully painted interior which includes a patient on a stretcher. The chrome bumpers, headlights and wheels were revived with a Molotow chrome pen. It’ll never win any concours prizes, but it was great fun as a quick diversion. Finally, being only 75mm (3”) long it proved a challenge to steady my hands enough for painting the finer details so I don’t think I’ll be attempting any small military figures any day soon, those days are long gone!

As you may have seen in my WIP, I have been building this Model T fire truck for a good friend of mine, to add to his collection of model and real fire engines. It is the relatively rare Gabriel/Hublot diecast and injection moulded kit and I have to say, it's great. A bit toy like in places with visible screw heads from the construction but the detail is brilliant for such an old kit and the fit of parts is superb. Anyway, here's the pictures and I hope you enjoy......

Hi all, I have recently found this site as I was looking for advice on using a new airbrush kit that I have recently acquired. With the gratefully received advice I have been given, I now know how to add photos so thought I would show my latest creation (see below, I hope!). I hope you guys don't think I'm a fraud as I don't actually build the model from scratch, but strip down and re-paint (if necessary) before applying decals to make an authentic replica. I hope this works and I hope you like! mad4bmws