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Found 147 results

  1. Hi Guys, I will make a conversion of the Tamiya 1/48 Gloster meteor F3 into a F4 with the Heritage aviation conversion set. It will get decals from Dutch decals for a Dutch Meteor from 323 squadron that was based at Leeuwarden afb in 1952/53. Here are some pictures. the box the content the conversion some extras I might be using?! And the scheme I use for it. That is it for now. Cheers,
  2. A build from 6 years ago: Did you notice that after playing a popular character or role, for some actors and actresses it becomes very difficult to be cast in another type of role? Same for the airplanes. So I was pleasantly surprised when I found a photo of the Nieuport 28 as a post-WW1 sport machine parked (and possibly repaired/reconditioned) by the Rogers Aircraft Inc. aviation company. This is a very simple, effortless conversion for a fun an quick weekender, without pretensions. The plane had a simple paint scheme which somehow delineates well the design shape. The Revell kit was used but there are others around. The kit is nice, has certain detail -a bit exaggerated-, but not a good interior, so to the lonely kit’s seat some bits were added. Some rigging –the kit’s instructions in that regard are kind of vague- is required but nothing that can not be endured with the help of a cup or glass of your beverage of choice. I cut out some openings in the front and side of the cowl as per the real machine and modified the mount of the rotary engine to allow for room for the detail inside the cockpit. The windshield was discarded and the stab struts were replaced by suitable brass Strutz. Control horns and cables were added to the rudder, all other control surfaces were torque rod-operated. The canvas-covered kit’s wheels were replaced with photoetched spoke wheels as per the real plane I was modeling, and wire snippets had to be inserted in the trimmed axle to locate them. The kit’s prop (with a sorta chunky hub) was also replaced by an Aeroclub white metal item. Home-made decals were printed. In my research I also found a number of French machines with civil registrations that looked enticing. A relatively simple kit that has potential for alternate liveries, so the research is now up to you. Hint: Compagnie Generale Transaerienne.
  3. For a bit of light relief I thought I'd have a go at the 1/12 Airfix A35 Van from the Wallace & Gromit animation series. The base is the Anti-Pesto Van but it will be converted to an expedition vehicle for Wallace & Gromit to compete in the Camembert Trophy from Wensleydale to The Sahara the source of Camel's milk from which Camelbert cheese is made. The basis for the theme a LR Disco suitably equipped. The Austin A35 van will feature similar accoutrements but given the W&G treatment. A start has been made on the rear suspension to add granny's bedspring coil-over shocks made by SPANX to 'control the wobble'. The body shell has been lightly rubbed down ready for a primer coat, and the three characters in the kit have been partly assembled with joints filled as required. The prone figure is the Crash Test Bunny, used in the R&D test phase of building various contraptions.
  4. Morning All, Since returning to the hobby a couple of years ago I now find it hard not to have a Spitifre of some kind on the go. Following on from my Seafire 47 which I enjoyed immensely, I've decided to do another Spitfire variant which hitherto has eluded me due to lack of talent and time - the Mark 21. It's an interesting variant, being the last with the original style fuselage and the first with the new wing, and so it was something of an interim model of which only 120 were built. It was also a tricky model to get to fly straight, with all sorts of longitudinal stability problems which took time to iron out. But, as test pilot Jeffrey Quill writes, they got it right in the end, and the high-performance Mark 21 had a relatively long career, starting in the final weeks of World War 2 and continuing in the Auxiliary squadrons, with a 1950s swansong doing anti-aircraft co-operation work outsourced to the private sector. I think the 21 is pretty, and as a boy remember seeing LA226 displayed in the atrium of Vickers' HQ at Millbank, central London, in the 1970s. With a number of production 21s having contra-rotating propellers and even bigger rudders than normal, there's also a good deal of variation available to choose from for a subject. For the base kit I'm using the Airfix Spitfire 22 (because I like it), with the spine and tail of the Airfix XIX. My XIX fuselage was spare as I built a Mark XI by combining the XIX wing with the IX fuselage, modified appropriately. I had planned to use the Freightdog XI conversion set on the XIX fuselage but in the end decided against it, because whilst the Freightdog set is very nice and accurate, the XIX fuselage that it should be bolted onto is not, and the combination looked all wrong to me. So I've still got the Freightdog set and the XIX fuselage minus its nose. The other awkwardness is that the XIX tail is now in two pieces, with a horizontal separation just above the elevators, which I made to accommodate the Freightdog XI fin. What this amounts to is that the fuselage halves below are made up of four pieces each, all stitched back together and with a first application of filler: I'm also going to push ahead with my Spitfire I, which is a refugee from the Battle of Britain Group build. Unfortunately my plans to make R6915 as it currently appears in the the Imperial war Museum (in a late-war paint scheme) render the model ineligible for the Group Build. No problem: I'll push on with it here. Here's the original: R6915 is a real Battle of Britain veteran, with a number of victories to its name. Later on it went to the OTUs and received some modifications: over-wing strengthening ribs, fishtail exhausts, and later-style canopy all added. I'll try to model all these if poss. So here is how far I've got: I've added the wing strengthening ribs and also the vents for the gun heating at the wingtips. After doing the latter, I went over to IWM Lambeth to have a look at the original, and found I'd been too clever: the vents had been removed from the wing undersides, so my plasticard representations will also have to come off. The ejector slots for the empty .303 cases were also doped over on R6915, so I'll have to fill and sand these too. Justin
  5. A build from 6 years ago: Yet another Morane Saulnier plane used by Michel Detroyat, this time the M.S.225, modified for its use as a racer and aerobatic machine. It was painted in an attractive red/black/silver scheme, and demonstrated its capabilities –and of course those of its pilot- to a great extent. Again an old good Heller kit provides the canvas for this project, the parts being a tad chunkier than the M.S.230 just posted. Some accurizing is needed too but the basics are there. My sample was provided by the ever-smiling, spanakopita-rider, Mr Psarras of Florida. Thanks again, Xtmosch! Look at photos; listen to what others have to say...wait, I correct myself, look at what others have done with success, not at what they may think YOU should do, and then turn to your model, and with reasonable expectations, modify what you may in order to achieve a better replica, an entertaining building, and not less importantly, a comlleted model, not an aggregate of plastic pieces that has a shoe box for sarcophagus until the eons turn it again back into fossil fuel. As you can see in the photos, a new cowl was made, the ribbing and rivets were toned-down, the cockpit was refined and some internal structure added. The engine will need an oil radiator and a new prop, the armament needs deletion, the ailerons need to be completed –as with Heller’s M.S.230 the intrados of the wing has no aileron separation lines- and other details will have to be taken care of. As I always say, look at your reference photos. Heller kits of course are not perfect. But they do have a very logical and practical part breakdown. If you consider when were they designed -many decades ago-, your admiration may increase even more. The outer upper wing panels follow a real separation on the plane, but you will have to engrave that separation on the intrados yourself. The stabs were dynamically balanced in the original plane, the kit has them wrong.
  6. A build from 6 years ago: One of the many version of this particular machine, which was heavily campaigned in the airshow circuits. Study your photos if you are thinking of building one, many details varied from season to season, and there are other equally attractive livery options. Call me Francophile. I have a soft spot for Heller kits, which were a big part of my modeling endeavors during my childhood and beyond in Argentina. Subtler than the contemporary Airfix*, more refined and not has heavily handed. I have built a good number of them, and still find them charming. Their fit is far superior than many contemporary kits of the short-run type of course and some of the normal injected type. To add to that, I feel a mischievous pleasure in transforming a war machine to a civil one, so I got this kit from my usual supplier, who we’ll call Xtmos from Florida in order not to reveal his true modeling Super-Hero identity. For those interested there is Smer re-pop that even has (here sounds of trumpets...) a different civil livery! so you do not have to modify anything. As soon as I opened the vintage box I noticed a strange, although somehow familiar deformed object with a green hue....yes! that mini-bottle of glue! DANGER, WILL ROBINSON! By now, the substance had mutated into some glow-in-the-dark, kryptonite-like scary thing! I called my Hazmat team, which is composed of the minute Preiser figures that were sent to me by the Evil Genius Sönke Schulz, who lives inside his Volkano lair. Once the Preiser figures, under the stern command of Helga, cleared the kit box of any hazards, I started to study the parts for the conversion. As you will see in the photos, the ailerons follow the French secret technology of “now you see’em, now you don’t”, so you have to engrave their separation line on the underside of the bottom half of the wing. The wing's central area has to be "filled-up", since the aerobatic machine did not have the same cut-out as the series plane. The stab has a different outline at the tips and the control surfaces are dynamically balanced. There is a headrest and a different windshield, plus two windows where the fore position used to be, and no instruments’ protuberances -as depicted in the kit- on the upper deck. I found an article advising to correct the rudder profile (which may be too small in the kit) and will have to provide, in order to replicate my subject, a new cowl, LG legs, modified upper fuselage deck, home-made decals and some other minor details; among them the removal of a sort of tab/footrest on the mid left fuselage side. My intended subject is the aerobatic Michel Detroyat MS-230 in its flashy red/white/black livery. There are many potential civil subjects for the Heller M.S.-230 kit, but most would imply designing and printing white decals which I can’t, since I do not posses and ALPS printer. F-AJTP, my subject, appears in photos -depending on the time they were taken- in slightly different schemes. I counted five so far. Check your photos carefully. The wheels have pants on most of them, but not all. Heller’s instructions on my vintage kit have some spots where the “Instruction stupidity" syndrome clearly shows. The most glaring area is the depiction of the cabane struts’ positions. Why, my dear fellow modeler, manufacturers represent small areas with even smaller drawings? Why the exact location of the parts is as mysterious as the location of the Holy Grail? *Oh, my, would I be now expelled from Britmodeller?
  7. Hi Folks I managed to pick p the Tamiya Perkasa at Telford, thinking being it would make a good comparison with the WWII boats I've built. Many of you will know the Perkasa along with three others was built for the Malaysian Navy. This was a spin off from the Brave Borderer/ Swordsman which got me wondering . . . . . Is it possible to convert the Perkasa to Borderer? Modifying above deck would seem ok but there seems to be conflicting info about the hull dimensions. I have found that there is a difference in the depth of the transom platform Borderer 2' 10" Perkasa 4' 4.5". Your thoughts and info would be appreciated Kev
  8. Hello Phantom Phans. This WIP is for the forthcoming Brigade Models conversion set for Academys F-4B into the prototype F4H-1. I have obtained from Kevin a pre production test shot of the mouldings as seen at SMW this year. This does not include canopies or decals as they are not ready yet. Availability of the set should be March next year. Kevin has agreed to add a second seat so later small radome aircraft can be built. Any changes for this will be up to the modeller, as the main purpose here is for a first flight aircraft. Also, there are no instructions (I suspect I may be writing them now). Onto what you will get. This first picture shows what you get. This first pic shows the parts, except for canopy, decals, and the pitot probe, which I do have. This pic shows where to cut on the wings (for the perforated airbrakes) and the fuselage. Close up of the wing where the airbrake goes. Note that either the wing can be cut, or alternatively, the resin part could be used as a master to drill your own holes in the wing. Here is a close up of the fuselage cut point. And the cut made. Another part that needs cutting is the forward under fuselage (part F40) The resin intakes and the kit trunking is being joined. Some fettling may be required for a perfect fit. Airbrakes being sorted. Airbrakes fitted. Note that the gap is my fault, not the kits (my cutting skills still need work). First look at the front fuselage. The black parts are kit parts. They mate to the resin perfectly. That is all for this introductory part. Ted
  9. A very old build, from 2006, 13 years ago. You should always have a scratchbuilder friend, since it seems to be fate that whatever we convert or scratch it's eventually released as a kit. This TB-3 model has recently been re-released in the guise it took me a lot of work to create many years ago. I have no idea up to which point there is a mold commonality, it seems to be quite a lot, but not having the new kit I can't really tell. Good for them, more civil models! Old review and build text starts: Oh boy. What a massive modeling project. As many of you, I saw this beast advertised time ago. As some reviewers were getting hold of the model and started to comment about their impressions, it was obvious that this was not an easy one. The sheer number of parts, the minute size of some of those components and the complexity of the building system -closer to a flying model than to a plastic static model- just makes for a long-breath, attention-demanding, non-forgiving enterprise. ICM is now well known among most modelers. They usually have an excellent surface treatment, detail-oriented engineering and, apparently, very tiny injection equipment. This could be the reason for the excessive count of parts, especially in the wing area of this particular model. What can be seen here is a almost unbelievable level of craftsmanship in the making of the master molds, unfortunately coupled with some production problems. Among the many glitches encountered were the variable thickness of the supposedly matting edges -making difficult the use of plastic card tabs to help alignment-, the insufficient and less than perfect notches and locating devices in building the wing structure, and the interlocking system of parts plagued with minor inaccuracies that unfortunately translated later into major misalignments, very, very difficult to solve. I have seen on the Internet some awesome TB-3 models, product without doubt of unimaginable dedication and skill. Being myself a much modestly gifted modeler of more peaceful orientation, I decided to go on with a demilitarized, ski-equipped version with enclosed cockpit of which I just had a side view from the Internet. I confess that some educated guessing was done here and there, coupled with some extrapolation of data from other variants of this plane. The level of detail I found in this kit was beyond my expectations. I was delighted with every bit. Some little flash was present and some parts were very delicate and difficult to remove from the sprues without braking them. The propellers have -even with very tiny rivets- the metal guard on their leading edges. The engines are well detailed as are the cowlings, but the spinner doesn't fit at all on the propeller, so you will have to work on both to achieve a decent fit, and the same goes for some parts of the engine compartment assembly. Many sink holes were found, and, as some of them are on parts were the corrugated surface is represented, they are difficult to correct. The engines, being solid casts, had also magnificent samples of sink holes too. As I was making progress in the first stages of building the model. I experienced a sense of satisfaction, being able to tackle most of the challenges, until I arrived to the point were you have to deal with the wings. Oh dear. The above-mentioned interlocking airplane-like system of ribs and spars looks good but doesn't perform that well. The skin of the wing is composed of many (too many, I may say) panels, The thickness of the spar-rib (airfoil) combo seems to be too much, and the skin plates fall short in some places. The four parts that make for the central area of the leading edge don't match with their counterparts. Neither do the parts that make for the fixed part of the trailing edges. Since all of these parts have micro-corrugated detail, you can not just simply fill, sand, of scratch with a blade, without leaving a mess that would be very difficult to deal with afterwards. So, a careful adjustment of the parts is mandatory and that will take a loooot of time. I must say that the only sector of the plane were I felt really frustrated was the wing. Fuselage, tail unit, interior details, although demanding and requiring adjustments, were a very pleasant building experience. In some images you can also see the covers for the machine gun positions in the fuselage and under the wings. To fill these holes and to create the new enclosed canopy I used plastic and aluminum corrugated sheets from a model train store. A new glazed cover was made for the "bow" of the fuselage also. I used both, acrylic and enamel paints, and some oils for the weathering/washes/stains on a Future layer. That I am aware of, there are two photo-etched detail sets for this kit, from Extratech and Eduard, but I decided to go on without them, realizing that surely I had enough to worry about with the kit itself. Wing aside, this project wasn't as terrible as I thought, but it is definitely not for the ones that are not willing to do some serious modeling-. I hope that ICM gets in the future a huge machine to produce really large parts, and keep doing these wonderful kits with a more reasonable break-down of the parts, and, if possible, consistent thickness. Anyway, the TB-3 surely looks the part if you are into the subject, with its pterodactyl-like stance and all the unmistakable flavor of the 30's .
  10. All right then, time to get started! My project for this group build is the Grumman/General Dynamics F-111B. I suspect that everyone knows the story of this aircraft and its development, but if not I'll direct you to the mother-lode of F-111B information later on in this post. My initial idea is to model one of the Phoenix missile test aircraft, and BuNo 151972 seems a good candidate. This, of course, will be a conversion and my base kit will be the Hasegawa 1:72 RAAF F-111C/G. This is a great kit, and contains all necessary parts to build either the C or G model. The G is essentially the same as the FB-111 as you know. Let's see what we get (and it's so much that it's difficult to close the box without squeezing the contents). First, the specific kit I'm using: Inside we find a lot of styrene! This next photo may look like two copies of the same sprue, but they are different - one is sprue C and the other sprue D. The difference is primarily with respect to the intakes as the F-111C and G had variations in this area (Triple Plow I vs. Triple Plow II). Since 151972 did not have either of these intakes, I will be modifying the Triple Plow I. And the rest: And finally two of these babies: I've acquired several bits of aftermarket goodies to help with this conversion, starting with the set from Pete's Hangar which unfortunately is no longer available. My understanding is that this set has a few problems, but they don't look to be insurmountable. Apparently, the shape of the nose, and its demarcation with the fuselage, is not quite right, but that's why they call it modelling. Some additional decal sheets that may be of help - the sheet from Pete's Hangar is also pictured here, but the other two sheets are from Microscale and are quite old. 72-132 includes the markings for 151972, and 72-452 includes stenciling for the early models of the F-111. Also shown here is the sheet from the kit, not sure if any of this will be used. The Phoenix testing logo is different between the Microscale and Pete's sheets, and based on photographs it looks like Microscale is better (for instance, Pete's omits the fire that the Phoenix bird is emerging from, the USMC globe and USN anchor). I hope those old Microscale sheets are still good! Some additional aftermarket that may be used. Obviously, not all of the photoetch for the F-111D/F is appropriate, but some of it may be useful. We'll see. The masks are fine, but what's this with the ejection seats for a B-57 Canberra? The F-111 had a ejection capsule! Well, yes it did, after a fashion. However, the first three F-111B prototypes, including 151972, did not have the capsule, and were instead fitted with Douglas Escapac ejection seats. According to the Ejection Site, they were model 1C. The resin seats from Pavla are models 1C-6, and have the right basic shape. But I suspect they will need some alteration or enhancement before the end of the day. Finally, the old Revell kit from 1966 will also be used, as it contains a lot of parts that will help, like the knife edge boat tail, aft fuselage bullet fairings (speed bumps as they were called), etc. I picked this up at a model show, and although it's been started (the B/C/FB long wing tips have been glued to the wings) that won't be a problem as I won't be using them. This is one of the few kits produced which claimed to be a B model. Like a lot of kits from the 60s, this one came out while the aircraft was still being developed, and contains several issues. But I think it will come in handy nonetheless. The loose parts, rolling around in the box: And the ones still clinging to the runners: Also in the box were these four pylons, which I suspect are from an F/A-18. But they have a shape resemblance (kind of) to the pylons used by 151972 for the Phoenix missiles. I will be checking if they are close to being the right size, and might work for the model. Again, we'll see. Perhaps they can be modified, maybe not. But it was nice of the chap who sold this to me to include them! The Phoenix missiles will probably be sourced from a Hasegawa F-14A kit, but will need some mods to represent the missiles used in the F-111B test program. Now, about that mother-lode. If you're going to build an F-111B, you simply have to have this monograph: Tommy is the F-111B subject matter expert, and he contributes regularly to Britmodeller. I expect he will show up here to keep me on the straight and moral path. If you follow this link, you'll go to Tommy's blog where he has posted several links to articles that concern the F-111B. There are also instructions for how to obtain the amendments and errata for the F-111B monograph. All of this material taken together remains the prime reference for this much-maligned bird. Cheers, Bill
  11. Mig Eater

    Type 64

    My latest model tank, the Chinese/Taiwanese Type 64. The model kit is Tamiya's 1/35 scale M41 Walker Bulldog, which was originally released in 1975 as a remote control toy & has been in production ever since. It can be bought really cheap & is recommended to any beginners because of its simple & easy construction. Because of how common this kit is I decided to do something a bit different & convert it into the rather obscure Type 64. Which was an upgraded version of the M41 developed in Taiwan in 1964, it featured a new engine, extra armour bolted onto the turret sides & new side-skirts. Only two prototypes were built, one was destroyed on a firing range & the other is currently displayed in a museum. The extra turret armour was made with plastic card that was warmed up & bent into shape, the side-skirts are made from aluminium cut from a drinks can & the ROC insignia I printed myself. As this kit was originally a motorised toy it is full of holes for the electronics which I filled in & sanded smooth. I also scratch-built several extra parts that aren't included in this kit, such as the third exhaust, support bars over the fenders & all of the vision ports were drilled out & replaced with new clear parts. When I started this build I thought it would be quick & simple but it turned into a bit of a chore & I felt rather drained after. So much so that it's taken me two months to get around to taking pictures of it. Note: There are actually two different tanks called Type 64, the other (& better known) Type 64 was a hybrid of an M42 Duster hull & a M18 Hellcat turret. This "hybrid" Type 64 was build as a stop-gap design after development of this Type 64 was cancelled.
  12. Hello mates, this is my "Hoosier Hotshot" from 2003 with scratch and painted decals, lenghtened tailpipe, airbrake changed from Heller model and some more updates .... Cheers, Tom
  13. Hi Everyone This seemed the perfect kit for doing many conversions so I decided to go for the camper van look with my usual detailing of adding working lights. I converted the inside and created a kitchen feature with built-in cupboards, oven, drawers, sink with taps and a microwave. I also added a removable table top and double bed along with an extending awning on the roof and roof rack. As this kit was built on an older model I only added working side lights, headlights, brake lights and indicators. Lastly I added the roof rack with luggage over the front cab. Building this kit, everything went together perfectly and it was a big help being able to add the glazing from the outside after the body was assembled. There was no flashing on the sprues and included were plenty of chrome parts with a lot of detailing. As I said before, there is plenty of scope for creating more versions of this bus and now that there is a panel van also available the idea's are numerous. For more details of the inside before the roof was added please visit HERE in the WIP section. A video of the lights working can be found HERE. I hope that you enjoy the following pictures and my adaptation of a very popular vehicle still being used today and look forward to your reviews. With side lights on Headlights Indicators Rear side lights Rear brake lights Rear indicators
  14. A second Stagg conversion, from 5 years ago This second model I am presenting to you now, of the early Staggerwing machines produced by Beechcraft , denominated A17SF, was conceived to participate in the MacRobertson race as NR / NC12569. Several circumstances did not permit that to happen, and the plane was eventually sold to the Bureau of Air Commerce as NS68. But first, the differences with the model I previously made and posted –the first 17R, NC499N, that you can see here: and this version, the A17SF, whose characteristics are: -a much bigger cowl to house the Wright Cyclone -absence of ventilation gills on the fuselage front -the presence of landing flaps underneath the upper wing * * this in turn demanded a cut on the “tail” of the wing strut upper fairings. DO NOT follow Wylam plans regarding this –and other- details, they help, but get stuff wrong all the time; look at photos instead (or besides) -a non-divided rudder –a divided one was used as an airbrake in the former model- that also has a small compensator protruding ahead from the hinge line at the top -steerable tailwheel -different nav lights located on the lower wings (as in the series models) -some sort of intake tube on left wing root –but only on NS68, not on the racer- -two Venturis underneath the belly –only on racer- -carb intake on top of cowl -thin struts instead of wire rigging on tail feathers -presence of antenna wire -on NS68- -different Pitot tube -different landing wires rigging -elevators had also small compensators protruding from the hinge line -antenna loop on the cabin roof Now, to this particular model of the Stag, A17FS. This particular version had the most powerful engine and the stumpiest look of them all. The schemes differ slightly too between the two incarnations of A17FS: -of course different registrations -scalloped-painted pants in the racer -different propellers -the wing struts were red on NS68 and silver on NR/NC12569 -the regs on the tail are red on NS68 and silver on NC12569 (besides of course the obvious facts that the regs themselves were different) I will repeat here the warnings I posted on the other conversion: The two things that gave me a lot of headaches and produced a lot of frustration were the two-part windshield and the struts. The struts as molded have tiny locating protrusions which you are at risk to confuse with the leftovers of the gates, a couple millimeters apart. If you have managed to spot that with a “phew!”, you are not off the hook. The curve of the upper part of the strut will not match that of the upper wing which it supports, nor will the little pip align with the faint hole in the said wing.
  15. A deep conversion from 5 years ago, backdating the kit to the first machine. A Staggering Endeavor The Prolific and unusual family of Beech Staggerwing aircraft evolved through several incarnations. Its elegant and unorthodox lines have the unmistakable appeal of the Golden Age of aviation. Less known, though, are the first pre-production machines, which differed from the production design and ulterior developments quite a lot. The Kit: Good news: we have a kit of the Staggerwing released in two boxings by two manufacturers, even with a floaty version. Not so good news: it is not the version I want to model. Even less good news: being a fairly decent kit with many pros, it is not the best technology around (short run, meaning some butt-joins, somewhat thick parts, you know already, you have built some of those). The two things that gave me a lot of headaches and produced a lot of frustration were the two-part windshield and the struts. The struts as molded have tiny locating protrusions which you are at risk to confuse with the leftovers of the gates, a couple millimeters apart. If you have managed to spot that with a “phew!”, you are not yet off the hook. The curve of the upper part of the strut will not match that of the upper wing which it supports, nor will the little pip align with the faint hole in the said wing. Good luck with that. I did not have any. The early Staggs –just to start with- had more span and less length, so you will have to slice and splice one set of wings. The upper –longer- wing panels in your kit number one will do now as lower wing panels for your prototype model. The lower wing panels of both kits will have to be hacked and re-hashed as the upper wings. Afraid of loosing detail? Don’t be, for two reasons: the upper wing in the early machines had no ailerons (fill the engraved aileron line and the seam where you attached the extension since you are at it) and the prototype used a slimmer airfoil, so some little sanding-down won’t hurt. Now your “new” lower wing (former upper wing of your kit) will need its aileron line continued to the edge (root) fill and scribe accordingly. Confused? And we are just getting started. Get the right engine from another kit or as an after market item; you need a Wright Whirlwind instead of the P&W R985 in your kits. To help you sorting out, here some pointers about the prototype 17R compared to your kit (which is a D-17): Had larger span Had two doors Bump underneath aileron hinge No upper wing ailerons Different engine The rudder split open and acted as an airbrake Had fixed LG (will have to glue all retractable gear parts closed, smooth out the area, scratchbuild the wheel pants) The fuselage was shorter and the aft shape concurrently varied The tail feathers were different (larger horizontal stab and differently-contoured vertical stab) The baggage door was on the other side (right) It had landing lights Tail wheel wasn’t retractable Had slightly more dihedral –even more on lower panel- Different nose and surface details AND of course some other details. Elated already? So am I. With another stagg in pants, soon to be posted as a separate RFI:
  16. A build from 2 years ago of a very elegant plane. The WIP is here: And so I don't have to repeat here what is written somewhere else: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Darmstadt_D-18
  17. A build from 2 years ago of a very elegant plane. And so I don't have to repeat here what is written somewhere else: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Darmstadt_D-18 My luck dictates that many times fellow modelers gift me Dujin kits. I accept them with a sigh of resignation. Then I start having nightmares about building them. I think I finally end up building them as a sort of exorcism. But not all Dujin resin kits are created equal. And in this case, that is good! The 1/72nd Darmstadt D.18 I got is a better kit than the Breda 33 that I previously built. But whatever you could say about the (despicable) casting of the Dujin kits (and with good reason!) has to be balanced against the prolific output of this French manufacturer and the vast scope of his releases. You can see in the accompanying photos that the casting in this kit is better, if not at all impeccable either. The web is very thick in parts and there are some bubbles. A particular annoyance are the pouring channels at the rudder, in the form of two slabs of resin that you will have to remove. I kept wondering why the fin/rudder was not made as a whole part attached to one fuselage side, or even a separate part. The parts have detail and you can tell the original masters were good, but during casting some of the sharpness was lost, but nothing really bad. In any case, after about 40 minutes or so the parts were removed form the casting web and given a cursory clean-up and preliminary sanding (wear mask or do it under running water, resin dust is toxic). You get a brief historical note with color calls, a scaled 3-view, two sets of landing gear legs and two flattened metal wires that should serve as struts. It is very likely that I'll end up substituting the resin landing gear parts -including the tailskid- for sturdier and better home-made parts. Resin landing gears have very little mechanical strength. You don't get any decals or assembly guide/drawings. This is a good kit compared to bad resin kits, but so-so compared to the best examples of resin kits. The price is fair, though, and I deem it a good deal for what you get. The interior detail consists of a cockpit floor with two bucket seats, two instrument panels, and perhaps a joystick (not clear if a resin part is the joystick or some random accretion). Again, since there is no parts map, exploded view or similar device, it is hard to tell. Beware! The engine is incorrect for any version of this model: Now how screwed up is this: The new landing gear legs are fabricated. Photos show shock absorbers of different lengths, depending on the time in the life of the one plane built, so two sets were made. The kit's copper strut material (way too soft) was replaced by airfoiled brass (once again, thanks Andrew): Typical I will not fit interior: The signature eccentric (not concentric) wheels: Removing the abundance of blobs and excretions from the inner walls: The fuselage halves are glued together. This is not a good fit, and if you align the nose, the tail will be off, and vice-versa. The offset can reach up to 2mm, huge for such small scale and model. You may have some re-contouring to do. Do not sand too much either to obtain flat fuselage halves gluing area, or you may end up with a too narrow fuselage girth. Needless to say putty will be needed at the seams. Since I am building the later canopied version -as said before- the nose will have to be sawed-off and rotated 180 degrees to leave the single cylinder (now on top) at the bottom, and the seam thus created will need to be hidden too: Creation of a master and vac copy to make the wanted conversion of this kit: The nose as explained before has to the sawed-off and rotated 180 degrees. An alternate method would be to fill the five cylinder locating holes and drill new ones in the right positions. So this is clear, the no-canopy earlier version depicted by the kit does not need these changes: The superb decals from Mika Jernfors (Arctic Decals) arrived in the mail today. Bear in mind that, since these are Alps-printed decals, you have to cut and trim each subject separately (the carrier covers the whole sheet). You have to handle them properly too, if you do no problems will be encountered: A caveat: Some drawings depict the roof of the canopy as being solid, which is inaccurate. Photos show there were windows on the roof too, up to the second post (the back of the pilot). After that it was solid: Many parts had to replaced, being the ones in the kit terribly poor: New cylinders are needed: Completed model is here:
  18. A build from 4 years ago: The conversion of the veteran Heller Potez 54 into a Potez 62 airliner is not unknown to the modeling universe. It is not an easy conversion, and implies serious modifications of the fuselage and, depending on the specific machine chosen, new engines and engine nacelles and other details. The airliner will of course necessitate its new cockpit and a cabin interior, with its many seats and other details, a new set of decals will have to be produced and some extensive research would be in order if you wish to obtain a reasonably accurate reproduction. Some modelers have chosen to modify the Heller fuselage, while others took advantage of the Dujin resin conversion fuselage. This item is not easy to get, but I believe is not impossible to grab one if you persist. I passed on it for several reasons: price, material (resin) and the fact that not having the opportunity of handling one directly I could not evaluate its accuracy and level of detail. This conversion has been tempting me for a while, but my interest picked up in discovering that Argentina, the country where I was born, had two Air France machines operating under French registration on the Buenos Aires / Santiago de Chile route, one of which was later acquired by the Argentinean government and re-registered LV-SEC (F-ANQQ). F-ANQQ was a converted 62.0, therefore had no sweptback as the ulterior 62.1 series machines. At around the same time two Dewoitine 333 and two 338s were also acquired, but very unfortunately they were passed to the military and did not go into civil operation, pity, because I would have loved to build models of them too. The Potez 62 LV-SEC operated only once, in half a flight. That's correct. According to the Pavlovcic article it flew on an official mission to Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, with some politicians and predictable entourage, only to crash on take-off on the attempted flight back, fortunately with non-fatal injuries but leaving the machine converted in a pile of trash. A not uncommon occurrence regarding many politicians: going half the way, leaving everything trashed, and escape unscathed. The same article features a photo (apparently the only known) of LV-SEC's tail sticking out of the water, not a pretty -or memorable- sight. As I started to gather, read, and compare sources, references and photos, it became obvious, as always, that you can not really take all you read as uncontroverted truth. The Pavlovcic article, otherwise a good effort that deserves praise and has many merits, seems to contain nevertheless a few inaccuracies, the most potentially misleading stating that the engine on the French machine that will become the Argentinean machine has its engines changed from inline (Hispano Suiza 12 Xrs) to radial (Gnome Rhone 14 Kirs Mistral Major) , which I believe is not correct. It seems it is all the way around: having started as a Potez 62.0 it had the radials, but when upgraded to 62.1 received the inlines. Surprisingly enough, in the very same article there are two photos of both Air France Potez with inline engines. Furthermore, he mentions about the Argentinean machine that had a "big radiator in the lower-front part of the nacelles", an undeniable feature of the inline Hispano Suiza, and photos of the Andes crossing taken from the Potez and partially showing the engine show an Hispano Suiza inline front, so I am not sure where this confusion roots. This is important, because being an inline engine, you could use the kit's nacelles, although not without some modifications, as photos show. This mods will be dealt with later on. If you are "un hermano de la Banda Oriental" (that is Uruguayan), being your Potez CX-ADH a 62.1 (ex- F-ANQN), it should include the modification of a 2 degrees sweptback as this one was a 62.1 from factory, therefore it did have the 2 degrees sweptback of the 62.1 series machines. An article by John Stroud on Aeroplane Monthly of May 1986 in his "Wings of Peace" series states that the specific machines that operated in Argentina had five seats. This is understandable if you contemplate that they had to cross the Andes to Chile, reaching an altitude of 5.500 meters (source: article on the Potez crossing the Andes on Revue Hispano Suiza). The same source also states that the two machines had Hispano Suiza X engines, and gives the second machine as F-ANQQ, instead of QO as the Pavlovcic article. In that regard the Pavlovcic article in Lima Victor is not correct. Unfortunately for Pavlovcic (and this mean absolutely no disrespect and does not detract from the merit of the overall effort) all references state F-ANQQ, including the Dumollard book and the registers: http://www.ab-ix.co.uk/f-aaaa.pdf Those original five seats were nevertheless surely increased in number as the machine passed to Argentinean hands, as the count for the infamous flight to Brazil shows: pilot, co-pilot, mechanic, radioman, mechanic assistant (five crew members) and eight passengers (13 total). I started by making the fuselage sides. One quick look at the kit ones made me realize that I would save a lot of time if I just scratched the fuselage instead of trying to cut, splice, patch, fill, putty, sand, smooth out, etc. the kit parts. My wife suggested I could save even more time by not building the plane, but, although her logic is undeniable, I suspect a catch there (as in everything she says in that particularly sweet tone of voice) so I did not follow her advise.
  19. (A build from more than 3 years ago, related to the Azur Delta build that I previously posted. Before the release of the Azur kit, the only way to get a Delta was to grab the old and venerable William Bros Gamma kit and mate it to a vacuformed after-market set that left a lot to be desired. But when there is a will, there is a kit, so we had to make with it. The results of course are cruder than the model made with the Azur kit, but who can refuse a modeling challenge?): Northrop Delta used on the Ellsworth Antarctic Expedition I have been always fond of this Humpty-Dumpty plane. The Esoteric partial conversion kit depicts a Northrop Delta 1D, that is the version with the "roundish" top and not the one that looks more like a Lockheed Orion. As it is, I could go with The Richfield Eagle, the Honeywell Delta - but I'd have to modify a bit the windshield- or the Ellsworth Antarctic Expedition (modifying it to adapt the skis). The Esoteric Models conversion is very old, and it is after all something meant to help modelers to have a replica of the Delta, conspicuously absent from the market until the Azur release, so it is kind of unfair that one would criticize it. Let me, then, be unfair, and say that it is quite bad. It is very crude, the molding is indistinct, the wing karmans have a too prominent edge, the stab fairings are overdone, the cowl stretches the styrene into a thin film at it's front, the location for the stabilizer halves is a deformed blob, the fuselage nose again has a too prominent edge, and the instructions don't instruct and do not include a 1/72 drawing of the parts. Oh, forgot to mention that the windows and door are inaccurately located, by quite a bit. Any good news? well, the outline matches quite well the plans I have. It had decals for the Coast Guard, but I trashed them. The Esoteric "Body Job" conversion is very simple: one vacuformed styrene sheet with two fuselage sides, a -marred- cowl, and the fin/rudder also -and predictably- in two halves. I have nothing against the Coast Guard, but I rather build a civil plane. There is no interior whatsoever, no engine, no clear parts, no prop, etc. Depending on what you are building you may use components from the William Bros. Gamma, but consult references, since engines and props and other bits (not to mention interiors) were very variable. And since you are at it, check the windows and accesses, that also varied greatly from plane to plane and even at different times for the same plane. Now go and get a W. Bros Northrop Gamma if you have this conversion, if that's not the case...good luck. Alternatively you may want to wait until I finish this laborious conversion at which point a kit is very likely to hit the market* *(AND IT DID, with the Azur kit).
  20. Aptly coded D-Dog for a Manchester, L7301 and one other aircraft were assigned to 50Sqn to support a maximum effort raid of 1046 aircraft on Cologne on the night of the 30th May 1942. That morning, Manser and another pilot collected their aircraft from 106Sqn at Coningsby. This aircraft was slightly unusual as it didn't have the mid upper turret that most Manchesters had but what wasn't unusual was the performance, particularly as loaned aircraft were often used for training. It was to carry a full compliment of incendiaries but in doing so, it wasn't able to climb above 7000ft which wasn't untypical of the aircraft being pulled along by the poorly developed Vulture engines. The crew hoped that being away from the main bomber stream up above, they would get left alone but unfortunately, their hopes were fruitless. Flak initially struck the fuselage damaging the bomb bay doors. A second burst hit the port engine setting it on fire. The fire then spread along most of the wing. Eventually, they managed to extinguish the fire and set for home. Unable to maintain height on a single Vulture and badly damaged aircraft, the crew discarded anything they could from the aircraft. Despite the efforts, the aircraft was still losing height, so Manser instructed his crew to bail out over Belgium just a few miles from the Dutch border to which they all did successfully. Manser stayed at the controls to ensure his crew got out OK but shortly after they exited, Manser lost control and the aircraft plummeted into the ground taking Manser with it. Five of the six crew made it back home with support from the resistance whilst F/O Barnes who was the navigator / bomb aimer was captured. As a result of the reports of the crew, Manser was awarded the Victoria Cross for his gallantry in giving his own life to save that of his crews. The VC read “In pressing home his attack in the face of strong opposition, in striving, against heavy odds, to bring back his aircraft and crew and, finally, when in extreme peril, thinking only of the safety of his comrades, Flying Officer Manser displayed determination and valour of the highest order.” Leslie Manser VC 1922-1942 I've been after a 48 scale Paragon Manchester kit for some time and considered it to be the holy grail of Bomber Command aircraft. Following a request on Britmodeller, Dennis aka @spitfire responded to say that he had one so I set off and over a cup of tea we put the world and exchanged money for resin (Big thanks Dennis ). Having a 48 scale Lincoln on the go already, that was a lot of resin and chopped up Lancaster that was going to be cluttering up the workbench. I can mess the bench up with a 72 scale Spitfire so you can imagine the chaos! Anyway, bit by bit, often 1 step forwards, two steps back, the Manchester came together as you can see HERE. There's still a few things to do including adding some bombs to the bay, but I'm posting as it is now as its 99% done. It's painted with Tamiya Rubber black / dark green and Mr Hobby Dark Earth with a variety of decals to complete the scheme. My next build was going to be OOB to have a rest, but now it will be a Classic Airframes Blenheim and a Sanger Short Stirling Anyway, hope you like... Thanks for looking, Neil
  21. Tweener

    Tupolev I-8 / AHT-13 Conversion

    Hello all While reading up on the Tupolev I-4 series and planning future builds and conversion of them, I came across the AHT-13, prototype of the I-8. The aircraft was essentially a redesigned I-4 with an imported Curtiss Conqueror engine. The aicraft did not enter production because the USSR had no plans to import or produce the Conqueror engine and no local alternative was available. In spite of that, flight tests appear to suggest that the aircraft flew well, being the first Soviet design to pass 300 km/h in level flight. My question is, given my interest in modelling all the variants of the I-4, from AHT-5 Prototype, to Production I-4, Mid-Production I-4Z (smaller lower wing), and Late-Production I-4bis (with lower wing removed entirely), and now, the I-8, where could I find a suitable nose and set of landing gear to graft onto the I-4 fuselage? I-4 (AHT-5) I-8 Thanks, Tweener
  22. Evening All, This is a blast from the past - a response to a question from a modeller on another site. I told him that I had made a model with a thistle insignia once - in my case it was an Hanriot HD 1 as flown by the Belgian ace Willi Coppens. I believe that the thistle was a personal marking on the fuselage. The model was converted from the Airfix Sopwith Camel following an article by G. Scarborough(?) in Airfix Magaine around 1970. This was my first or second completed biplane conversion and involved a bit of cutting and reshaping of the wings and fuselage, and a new tail. The markings are hand painted, (there were no transfers available at the time I made this in the mid-1970's), and it is rigged with stretched sprue. I know that there are good kits available for this type now (and in God's Own Scale), so this conversion is an anachronism which sits in one of my cabinets to remind me what I was doing in an earlier modelling incarnation. Please do not look too closely at the pictures or you will see all of the obvious deficiencies - just think of it as an example of how times and the availability of kits has changed.... it was what we had to do at the time if we wanted something a little different. Thanks for looking. P
  23. I’ve been questing after a 1/16 Abrams since 1995 when I picked up the Jim Shirley Productions resin 120mm scale (remember when that was a thing?) kit...and botched it with expanding foam filler! Now I’m converting Tamiya’s 1/16 M1A2 into a M1A1 in Australian service. Thanks to one of the cavalry regiments being granted freedom of entry to Brisbane last year, I finally have a good collection of pics of a single tank: ARN 055, c/s 31B “Cersei” of C Sqn, 2/14 Light Horse Regiment (Queensland Mounted Rifles). Having been working on this for a while, here’s a selection of “in progress” pics. Replacement of the kit rails & bustle with Plastruct 1.25mm plastic-coated wire: Enhancement of the kit anti-slip with Tamiya textured sand paint: Replacement stowage bin handles: Scratch-built bustle rack extension progress: And some overall progress: Thanks for looking.
  24. So chaps, the next build will be something that is very dear to me, Veh reg 09EA90 ( G3 Ops) my old ride at 6th Armd Bde Salamanca Barracks in Soest West Germany. I signed for the detachment back in 1990 as a young Signaller barely just out of school, 09EA90 was straight out of base workshops after a major overhaul so it was basically a brand new wagon, the paint finish was immaculate ( sprayed black and green) , not a chip or scratch and all the kit was brand new first issue. (didn't stay like that for long) I'll be using the great Takom FV432 as the basis of this conversion which will be a in depth conversion. Most people wouldn't be able to tell a 432 and 436 apart from first glance but there are a bucket load of differences, the interior is the major headache as it filled with Radio kit. 09EA90 had a twin 353 Zulu fit along with a single 321 and a SCRAT fit. We also had 3 Ptarmigan subsets and the Redbrick TAC IC system. Adding to that I have to scratch build the new cage as the Takom cage is too small for a 436, a 1500 w Onan gene set and add the various armoured boxes on the roof plus the Racal 8m masts and mounts. After the first Gulf War our Squadron started getting the GPMG to fit on the commanders cupola, the Infantry started getting the swearing removed LSW as a section weapon so us Signallers got the GPMGs that were surplus to the Infantry. We did still have the LMG (Bren) up until that point but no mounts to fix them to the cupola. The box shot I need to find more of my photo's from the day but here are a few of 09EA90 First photo is of the Forward Headquarters 6th Armd Bde, 09EA90 (G3 Ops )on the left, centre is Radcon and the right hand side is one of the Ptarmigan Radio Relay wagon Stay tuned for more Dan
  25. Hawker Siddeley Trident 1/144 1C to 1E conversion Northeast Airlines (UK) RESTORATION This is the Airfix 1/144 kit which I am converting from the 1C to the 1E in the colours of Northeast Airlines that was based in Newcastle Upon Tyne in the 1970s. I'm by no means an expert but I believe the major changes are wingtip extensions a more conventional leading edge slat arrangement a larger wing root fairing (especially on the starboard side as it extends further back than port side) extended tailcone (If these are wrong or there are additional changes please feel free to let me know!) My dad actually started the conversion but its remained abandoned for a couple of years. I decided to start again making some major changes. The clear plastic cockpit window became opaque and could not be rescued meaning I lost the beautiful interior cockpit that had been created. I decided to fill this along with all the windows and the undercarriage doors. since original paintwork has been stripped the plastic now looks worn out and lacking the original detail. I also cut a chunk out the fuselage to let me get into the model to make a gap for a stand. wingtip extensions added by adding flat plastic to the upper and lower portions of the wing and blending it into the existing wing. Originally these extensions were just plain milliput but were extremely fragile. I will have to look and measure the flap arrangement to see if they are the same length and size. You can see the portion of the fuselage that was removed in this picture. This side of the aircraft has the shorter fairing above the wing, this whole area is missing for the 1C and looks totally smooth. On the part above the tail engines jet exhaust (the tailcone??) needs to be extended. again made out of milliput it was too fragile and came off when i stripped the original paintjob. I've made a hole and using a piece of plastic sprew to build the tailcone from inside the model so it can't just snap off. eventually i've built around the sprew and made the shape. Still needs a bit of work to get the exact angle. This is the starboard side fairing, perhaps someone can tell me why this is significantly longer on this side and what purpose it serves? I'm thinking about using authentic airliners 3-D windows, they don't have them for this aircraft but i wonder if anyone can recommend which windows could be used instead??? would the windows differ much from narrow bodied airliners of the same era?? The cockpit windows I'm going to make myself from spares