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  1. Hello all. I made this Comet about 2-3 years ago when i was about 12 despite the fact it looks mediocre at best i needed something to post so I could say Happy new year Happy new Year Cheers Enes
  2. Another Clear Prop Models new project a 1/72nd de Havilland DH.88 Comet kit Source: https://clearpropmodels.com/ Box art V.P.
  3. Yokosuka D4Y1/1-C Judy (AZ7841) 1:72 AZ Model by Kovozávody Prostějov Intended as a replacement to the ageing Aichi Val, the Suisei, or Comet in English, was delayed by development issues that meant the Val had to soldier-on in service, where it racked up a substantial tally of Allied ships and other assets in the dive-bomber role. Initially powered by a license-built Daimler Benz DB601 engine, the aircraft had a high top-speed that gave it an advantage when avoiding defensive fighter screens on the way to the target, but like many Japanese designs, it lacked armour and self-sealing fuel-tanks that meant one burst of fire stood a good chance of turning it into a flaming wreck. It wasn’t until the later radial-engined 4 variant that such niceties as armoured glass and cockpit protection were introduced, too little, too late, as all the experienced pilots had already met their doom. Although it was intended as a dive bomber, its speed led to its use as reconnaissance aircraft, and late in the war it was also used in kamikaze attacks, having the unfortunate distinction of being the aircraft used in the last attack of the kind of WWII, ironically just after the Japanese surrender documents had been signed. It was equipped with a pair of forward-firing .303 machine guns throughout its service, and a rear machine gun for the gunner in the back of the long greenhouse canopy, which was upgraded to a more powerful 13mm weapon in later variants to improve its destructive capability. Its bomb load was only 500kg, often stored in the internal bomb bay, or as two 250kg bombs under the wings. The Kamikaze variant carried 800kg, as it wasn’t expected to make a return journey. The D4Y4 was the last version that appears to have been tuned towards the unique requirements of kamikaze attacks, having its rear gun removed, the bomb load increased, plus frontal and cockpit armour added, along with some protection for the fuel tanks. The end of the war curtailed the development of the D4Y5 that mounted a more powerful 2,000hp radial engine and a four-bladed prop. The Kit This is a reboxing of a kit that was originally tooled in 2012, although additional parts have been added since then, and a new decal sheet is provided for this issue. It arrives in an end-opening box, with a painting of the type on the front having just sent an American Wildcat spiralling on a journey to the ground in flames. A full set of profiles can be found on the rear of the box, using Gunze paint codes to call out painting instructions. Inside the box are two sprues of grey styrene, a sprue of clear parts in its own Ziploc bag, decal sheet and instruction booklet, all tightly wrapped in a resealable clear foil bag to prevent chaffing of the parts. The instructions consist of an A5 booklet of two pages of folded A4, with spot colour on the front page, and a set of stencil profiles on the rear. Detail is good, with crisp engraved lines on the surface, and plenty of raised and recessed details incorporated on the sprues. Construction begins with the cockpit, which is assembled on a long flat floor with a raised portion in the middle that accepts the pilot’s seat and decal seatbelts, adding the control column in front, and painting the moulded-in rudder pedals. In the rear section, a single tall bottle and a rack of three more squat bottles are inserted into depressions, as is a box, and later on the rear crew seat on a rotating gun-mount frame with more decal belts applied is fitted in front of the box, and is shown facing forward. In between the crew are two radio black boxes that are fixed to the upstand behind the pilot’s seat and on the floor just behind it. There is mention of Photo-Etch (PE) parts for the instrument panel, but this is a generic Judy instruction sheet, and refers to another boxing. The styrene instrument panel is blank, and has two decals applied to depict the dials instead of the PE, and these should be applied after painting the panel, as the dials are printed on a clear carrier film. The cockpit and instrument panel are sandwiched between the two fuselage halves along with the tail wheel, and here there is some ribbing and other detail moulded into the interior that will benefit from some careful painting to accentuate them. The lower wing is a single-span part that incorporates part of the lower fuselage, and this has the two gear bays inserted from within along with a clear window in the cockpit floor before it is joined to the upper wings and mated with the fuselage. The gear bays also have some ribbing moulded-in to add detail to your model, as well as sockets for the gear legs that are installed later. First, a choice of large or small tail fins is butt-jointed with the fuselage, as are the elevators, and all these would benefit from pinning for extra strength, even at this scale. The larger fin is appropriate for this boxing, so toss part 8 into the spares bin early on to avoid confusion. Both cowling types are included on the sprues, but you can ignore step 9 for this issue, as the early Judys had in-line engines. The cowling is made from two halves, into which the exhaust stacks are slotted into grooves at the sides, adding the three-part chin intake below, then applying the spinner to the three-bladed prop and inserting the shaft into the hole in the nose. The diagrams all have their appropriate variants included in text on the left, so making a mistake would require some effort to ignore them, which is good. The main gear is next to be made, fitting the wheels to the end of the struts, and adding the captive bay door over the open side to trap the wheel in place, doing the same in mirror-image for the other leg. It is worth noting however that the upper end of the bay door should be cut off to create a small additional door that rests almost flat against the wing once installed, so cut those before you glue them to the legs. A few scrap diagrams help you with the correct alignment of the parts, and show the angle for the inner bay doors. A small pair of doors are fitted to the tail gear bay, with an arrestor hook only fitted to certain options, due to a dwindling number of carriers the Japanese navy possessed nearer the end of the war. There is a common roll-over bar with V-brace support fitted between the cockpits, then a choice of guns for a couple of specialised sub-variants can be ignored, as can three of the four canopy steps, taking note of step 18, which has the canopy installed in the front of the cockpit cut-out with a telescopic sight projecting through a hole in the glass, and a single part for the rest of the greenhouse, adding a radio mast at around the mid-point of the framework, for which you’ll need to provide your own wire/thread to connect it to the top of the tail fin, as per the top diagram of the stencil profiles. Markings There are four options on the decal sheet, and although they all wear the same green over grey camouflage with a wiggly demarcation, their other markings are different enough to be interesting. From the box you can build one of the following: The decals have been designed by Rising Decals, and appear to be printed using the same digital processes as Eduard are now using, having good registration, sharpness, and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut loosely around the printed areas. I mention Eduard because from 2021, the carrier film on their decals can be coaxed away from the printed part of the decal after they have been applied, effectively rendering them carrier film free, making the completed decals much thinner and more realistic, and obviating the need to apply successive coats of clear varnish to hide the edges of the carrier film. It’s a great step further in realism from my point of view, and saves a good quantity of precious modelling time into the bargain. Conclusion A welcome re-release of this initial version of the Judy that is well-detailed, and from my own point of view is a more attractive option than the later radial-engined options. What amounts to carrier film-free decals also adds to the appeal. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  4. My latest build is the Authentic Airliners 1:144 DH-106 Comet 4C Mexicana. I once made Airfix's Comet 4B, but that kit has a lot of flaws and when I heard that Authentic Airliners came out with a kit for the 4C, I couldn't pass it up. Poor famed Comet 1....what civil aviation enthusiast doesn't know the tragic story? The world's first commercially produced jet-powered passenger jet airliner with the famous fatigue-induced crashes in the 1950s. The Comet could have been a real success story, but Boeing and Douglas, among others, learned from the mistakes of De Havilland and build superior aircraft. By the time De Havilland came out with an improved version in the form of the Comet 4, the Comet had already played its part (although the Comet 4 was otherwise a very capable aircraft). The Comet 4C I will be making is an extended version of the Comet 4 sans suffix. In particular, the fuel tanks on the wings of the Comet 4 I find very striking (our 5-year old son likes those a lot too. It looks like an X-Wing he said :p) . The kit is truly excellent and comes highly recommended. The decals by Vintage Flyer are also very nice (and as a bonus come with AccuScribe, for easy masking). Cockpit decals are from Authentic Airliner Decals, but I didn’t like all the windows from that decal sheet, so I made the windows a combination of Authentic Airliner decals and Vintage Flyer’s window decals. I used Tamiya white for the top of the fuselage and Inspire Chrome for the metal parts. The antennas are scratched and the wire antenna is made using a hair from my girlfriend. At any rate the pictures: My next build will be the Authentic Airliners Lockheed L-1011 (Air Atlanta). Thanks for watching and see you next time! Martijn
  5. DH Comet, BEA Red Square. 1/144 Airfix with 26Decals After much Chopping around an Amodel Comet last year I thought I'd have another go at the old Airfix kit, I used the most recent boxing which has the cabin windows filled in. First released in 1961, it is very simple with only 6 parts to make the basic airframe (2 fuselage halves, upper and lower full span wings, and 2 tailplanes). The wheels are far too skinny for my liking, so I replaced the mains with the spare ones in the Amodel kit, and the nose wheels are Viscount main wheels from S&M kit. We really do need an up to date injection moulded Comet in 1/144 scale, but this one still scrubs up well considering it's age. (oops, just noticed I've knocked the aerial wire loose while taking the photos). With my much modified Amodel Comet C.4 Thanks for looking, John
  6. Unusually I listed my planned build for 2021 and I looked through the BM Group Builds and 'Anything but Injection' appealed to me to make something different. So whilst the Anzac GB continues, and my two entries are gradually reaching completion, its time to jump into another GB! So I offer up the Heritage Aviation 1/48 DH88 Comet racer in resin and white metal as a qualifying entry. One of the local modellers recently built the Micromir version and made a great job of it and I know it will take a bit of patience to get the resin version anywhere near to that, but I'm aiming for a nice gloss black G-ACSR 'Black Magic'- registration in gold decals. Another 1930;s machine, but is there a better era for aviation? Obligatory pre-start shots this morning: Kit decals are for G-ACSP but I also bought the Whirlybird decals for G-ACSS just in case I changed my mind - well actually I thought they were 1/72....... No instructions with the kit but its relatively few parts: Aaah the bag of white metal bits - thats why superglue was invented right?? And two canopies predicting the average modeller will screw up the first one.... plus anothe vac form shape x 2 which I presume to be undercarriage doors..... The GB for all will be more of a challenge for all compared to the usual plastic kits but looking forward to it. The Comet is also one of the most elegant aircraft of its time and era and this will be the first one that I will complete. I have 3 1/72 versions in primer that were started by a fellow now departed modeller and completing them will be a tribute to him. Also hope to enter another simple resin kit into this GB, but I am reserving judgement and a decision until I've looked in the box again... As always good luck to all entering and here's to us all completing our chosen model (s)! JP
  7. Time for a first WIP. While putting an order together, I needed just €5 added to get free shipping, so in went this little DH-88 Comet. The stash expansion (excluding the Phantom box): Now, the Mozzie and Boomerang are known older kits, but the Comet has the newish box style. Little did I know... Why, yes! It's the original Comet from the baggie era. ....including the staggering (ahem) amount of detail - or rather, flashy bits - you might expect from a 1960s mould still being used today. So, mismoulded wheels, mismoulded props, flashy bits, tired old mould... out with the filler, putty and sanders to start with. The pilot figures - well, heads, really - are so out of scale that it's better taking them off and make it flush. Canopy has an air bubble in it, and is way too big as is so that will be carefully sanded down to fit. I'm doing this as a fun build mostly, not going to go all out but I want to clean it up a bit and see what we can do with this.
  8. Here’s my first model started and completed this year - the Bronco 1:35 Comet finished out of the box as “Iron Duke IV” of 1RTR, 7th Armoured Division in Germany, April 1945. My first go with so-called workable tracks (they are a bit wonky, but most of worst bits are hidden), and there was some more complex photoetch than I am used to (the exhaust cowls at the back), but the rest was a pure joy to build. Used brush painted MIG Ammo SCC15 for the main paint job, with Tamiya acrylics for any detail work. Various oil and acrylic washes to make it a little grubby and a final flat coat of brushed on Italeri Clear Flat. Pretty happy with how it turned out. Not sure what to do next - I do have the Tamiya 1:35 Matilda (more recent one) in the stash 🤔 Thanks for looking.
  9. Hi all, My first model for a very long time, I was going to do the Trumpeter enhanced armour chally with eduard etch bits, but thought I would keep it a bit simpler to start with, so out of the kits acquired so far, the Chally, AA CrAARV on chally 1mk3 and Takom 432, I am going to attempt the Bronco A34 Comet (all the kits have a bit of a personal touch in real Armour except CrAARV), so first photo is the tracks found these and couldn’t resist them by Masterclub, so far pretty impressed and happy, going together easily not rushing them taken about 2 hours per 50 link length
  10. New MikroMir/AMP project is to release 1/48th and 1/72nd de Havilland DH.88 Comet kits. 1/48th - ref. 48017 - Havilland DH.88 Comet Source: https://fr-fr.facebook.com/mikro.mir.dnepr/posts/1750103291734066 3D renders V.P.
  11. Comet A34 as used by the Irish Army, pics by murfv taken at Curragh Camp, Co.Kildare
  12. I am looking at buying a model of a de Havilland Comet & would very much appreciate some advice as to which one to choose. From what I can make out, the options in 1:144 are the old Airfix 4B, Amodel 4B or 4C, and the F-RSIN Comet 1, whereas in 1:72, there is Mach 2's 4B. I have read individual reviews of each, and all clearly have their good (& not so good) features - e.g. Airfix has raised panel lines but seems to fit ok (at least for its age!), whereas Amodel has engraved lines but reviews suggest fit isn't great. However, I have not been able to find any direct comparison reviews between the 1:144 ones or build reviews of the Mach 2. I do not mind whether it is a Comet 1, or a Comet 4 - what I am after is a decent representation of a Comet, and one that is not going to take (too) much work to build, to display. With that in mind, which would be the best one to go for?
  13. Mach II from France will have a new surprise at Telford for RAF post war transport aircraft lovers. Air Graphics is reported having partnered with Mach 2 and will be releasing resin update sets to compliment this new kit. To be followed. And the winner is a: de Havilland DH.106 Comet 4C V.P.
  14. Well, since we got 2 more weeks on this great Classic GB, I feel safe to commit to another build to really keep pushing the stats through the roof. Another of the Trailblazers series not already covered - the D.H.88 Comet Racer. Note the colour chart only has one colour specified - Red! Since the plastic is already this colour, I will have little to do. I'll retain the kit colour as far as possible and just do a bit of detail painting as required. I've never built this kit or aircraft before so it will be interesting. First off, I can see that the seated pilots are missing but two 'larger than life' standing figures have been provided. ??
  15. So! Hot off the Bugle Buggy build, I sat down and pondered what to build next. Luckily sitting down is a skill I master quite well and t'was a clear evening and no clouds to obscure the stars. As I sat there, staring at the stars, and letting my mind wander, it suddenly hit me: How 'bout a Comet - no - not one, but two! I happen to have two AModel 1/144 DeHavilland Comets in the 'stash - a 4B and a 4C. They'll be built almost OOB and mostly for the fun of it. So - 'nuff said - let the building commence: Cheers Hans J
  16. AZmodel/Kovozávody Prostějov has just announced working on a 1/72nd de Havilland DH.88 Comet kit - ref. ? Source: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235010228-kpaz-central-discussion-questions-answers/&do=findComment&comment=2959594 So just as MikroMir :-< ... Thread: link In the same scale there's also the SBS Model resin kit: link V.P.
  17. I will go for my 'oldest' Airfix kit - the DH Comet 4B. It did occur to me that this might be a 'collector's piece' but I have decided I'm a 'builder', although I will keep the box with the finished model. I will be putting in a big effort (for me) by including after-market add-ons and really try for a pristine finish. It could represent the journey that some kits have been on... Raring to go and happy modelling all!
  18. It's been a very long time since I posted on here, my last model being my BR86 loco. Unfortunately that has gradually ground to a halt, i've been busy letting life get in the way of model making so here I am. It's been at least 2 years since I actually completed a model so I decided I need to pick something nice and simple to get back into it. This particular model is yet another result of spending too much time in the Hannants tent at an airshow. I'm not usually a fan of resin kits, but this one just caught my attention being rather more sophisticated than the resin kits of old. Well I have to say it's a beautiful kit, and of course within about half an hour I managed to slice my finger with a fresh blade whilst cutting a piece off the casting block (I never seem to learn to use a saw and I always cut myself pretty well at least once when dealing with resin). This is the kind of kit that makes my fingers seem like huge clumsy blobs despite the fact that they're smaller than average, this little seat being a great example. That said, I seem to be able to get on somehow and haven't crushed anything yet! I'm pretty impressed with how the pieces fit together once they're off the casting blocks, they really do need very little, if any adjustment to fit perfectly which is a bonus. I've just finished detailing up the cockpit ready to go together, I decided to go more dark grey than black as it's only tiny and I actually want something of the cockpit to be seen, it being pretty much mostly black!
  19. OK, this is is my first foray into the odd world of airliner modellng, so be gentle! This year I've been introducing my lovely girlfriend Louise to aviation history, bit by bit. Among other things we've been to Duxford for a look round, and enjoyed a couple of Shuttleworth shows and Flying Legends together. ] Anyhow, for no reason that I can determine, the two aircraft she has most taken to, out of all the things we've seen, are the DH Comet and the Fieseler Storch. She's also shown quite a bit of interest in my modelling, so I bought her the Academy Storch for her birthday (very much still a WIP) and agreed to make her a Comet for Christmas! So here's the result. From the start I wanted to convert my 1:144 Airfix kit into a Comet 4 of BOAC, as well as improve the detailing. Changes to the base kit are was follows: Cut 1.99 scale metres (two windows) from the fuselage length-this was tricky as the fuselage tapers subtly outward towards the nose! Cut off the wingtips, and added new carved from scrap plastic to reach correct wingspan for longer-winged Comet 4. Wing pinion tanks from 1:72nd Vampire T.11 drop tanks (they're an amazingly good match) Tank fillet fairings from scrap resin and filler Re-profiled fin tip Detailed exhaust cans Added rudimentary cockpit including floor, instrument panel, seats and yokes. Cut out near-nonexistent nosehweel bay, built new to appropriate depth with plasticard, detailed with more plasticard. Thinned out nose and main u/c doors and added extra struts to legs Replaced cockpit glazing with individual windows from CD case Cut out underside thrust reversers and various vents etc. Lined intakes and added rudimentary compressor faces. Drilled out auxiliary intakes between main ones Drilled out landing lights outboard of intakes and replaced with shaped clear sprue Plasticard aerials, intake scoops, anti-collision beacons added to added to fusleage and centre section Plasticard fuel dump pipes added to wings and tanks, hinge actuators added to aileron trim tabs, and wing fenclets added to leading edge. Scribed majority of panel lines, filled and re-scribed double joints between control surfaces The model is shown below before painting with Halfords Appliance White and Hunbrol Metalcote rattle-cans. I used the S&M sheet for Comet 4 to represent G-ADPC, one of the two aircraft which flew the first scheduled transatlantic jet service in 1958. The decals were of very good quality but rather over-sized, for example the tailfin decal was much too big, and the fuselage stripe needed cutting down to fit the kit windows better. The bit where the stripes widen and join around the nose was a nightmare, especially as I had to cut around the cockpit windows. In the end I mixed paint to as close a match as possible for BOAC blue, and had to touch up! It doesn't notice too badly under a coat of gloss varnish though. Hope you like the results! Horrible flash shot shows up all sorts of nightmares, but it's the only way to see the intakes properly: U/C bay. Just noticed the ruddy stripe isn't central. Grrrrr! Happy customer.
  20. De Havilland Comet 4c - 1:144 Airfix (Updated pictures) Dan Air - 26 decals [Edit] New pictures as I had forgotten a few final details on the model. Added this morning are nav lights, aerials, aerial line from fin tip, taiplane black tips, and some panel lining/weathering. [/edit] The Comet is one of the most beautiful airliners ever. In the 4c version with extended wings and pinion tanks it looked at its very best. To further emphasise its beauty and pure shape I wanted to model it in flight without the clutter of undercarriage. The idea of doing a 4c was inspired by Phil 'Vulcanicity's lovely model in BOAC colours. Phil used 1:72 drop tanks from the Airfix Vampire for the pinion tanks, so I nicked his idea! It's appropriate too, from one DH aircraft to another! Decals are from Two-six, and as usual are top quality, settling down beautifully. I used the cockpit decal here, although I normally prefer to kit the kits clear glazing, but there was no hope with the tiny, ill fitting part supplied with this old kit. I used one from my stash, remember this bit of nostalgia from the 1980's? The decals were yellowed and curled though, so I'm glad that Ray at two-six sells a far superior set for the 4b and 4c. This is the major part of the conversion. Extended wing tips, and slots cut for the pinion tanks which were also shortened by cutting a section from the middle. Starboard side mostly complete, port side in rough format. Thanks for looking, John
  21. I've been meaning to visit this museum for years and finally got around to it a couple of weeks ago. Small, but perfectly formed, the highlight is of course the three Mosquito aircraft, and for me the opportunity of sitting in a Sea Vixen, thus fulfilling a boyhood dream! More here if you're interested: http://www.hanger51.org/aircraft-museums/uk-museums-collections/de-havilland-aircraft-museum/ IMG_8611 copy by tony_inkster, on Flickr IMG_8615_copy by tony_inkster, on Flickr IMG_8614 copy by tony_inkster, on Flickr IMG_8610_copy by tony_inkster, on Flickr IMG_8597 copy by tony_inkster, on Flickr IMG_8588_copy by tony_inkster, on Flickr IMG_8577_copy by tony_inkster, on Flickr IMG_8571 copy by tony_inkster, on Flickr IMG_8619_copy by tony_inkster, on Flickr
  22. I have started compiling a list of DH.88 Comet Racer kits - static and flying. Any more would be much appreciated. Static Helmet aircraft; 1:200 white metal. Frog/Air Lines/Novo; 1:72 injection. (out of production) Airfix; 1:72 injection. SBS Models; 1:72 resin + white metal + etched. Heritage aviation; 1:48 resin + white metal kit. Akatombo; 1:48 resin (Japan only). ecardmodels; 1:48 self-print paper. Aerotech; 1:32 Resin + white metal + etched. Flying (Most if not all flying models have enlarged wing tips and washout to make them flyable) Durafly; 1120mm [44"] span. Pre-painted foam. T&J Models; 50" span. Traditional built up construction. flight characteristics. Cloud models; 52" span. Moulded plastic/foam. Stuart Mackay Models; 2.1m (84") span. Moulded. Advanced Scale Models; 88" (2235mm) span. Mixed materials.
  23. It’s done. It took 18 months, the sniffing of copious amounts of CA glue, bankrupting myself on the bills for filler and Tamiya primer and the printing and reprinting of many, many decal sheets, but I finally have a completed 1/72 model of my favourite airplane of all time, the DeHavilland DH-106 Comet I. It is certainly not the most perfect model I have built, but I’m extremely pleased with the result, especially when I think back of all the challenges I’ve had to deal with in building it. I won’t repeat everything I wrote in my WiP progress thread (here), but this was one of those Murphy’s Law builds. For starters, the kit itself, made by the now defunct Fliegerhorst of Germany, is crap. I paid (or rather my parents did, as it was a birthday gift) over 100 euros for it, and there can’t be a model kit that is worse value for money than this one. The resin parts were warped, badly moulded, full of pin holes, detail was non-existent and the panel lines of inconsistent depth and crispness and completely missing in some areas. This is the first kit where I’ve actually broken parts on purpose to make them fit. After gluing the parts together, the misalignment between them required the use of insane amounts of CA glue and subsequently the use of a file with a coarseness only associated with crude woodworking to deal with the seams. But I persevered! So after covering most of the room in resin dust (I did use a mask and I wet-sanded almost everything) out came an object that did look suspiciously like a Comet. Of course, application of primer highlighted many, many imperfections and it also showed the panel lines either had not survived the onslaught, of were of such ragged and indistinct quality that they needed rescribing. I am terrible at rescribing, but I like to think that doing it on this kit (in most cases, four of five times for every panel line) has improved my skill somewhat. I think this stage took the longest to get to a level where I was satisfied. Painting went quite well – at least initially. I used Humbrol Polished Aluminium from a rattle can and it went on very well. I moved on with the white section for the roof, which also went on very well. However, after removing the masking tape I found out that Humbrol’s paint didn’t like masking tape, and I had to redo the silver, then cover it with a layer of future before I could move on. In the meantime, I had discarded the lousy decals that Fliegerhorst had included because they were the wrong color. My dad used them as a base to make new ones on the computer, and I applied these to the kit. Stupidly, I didn’t properly check the alignment of the fuselage bands and after thinking about it for a day, I decided to remove them. I hadn’t come this far to screw it up like this! Removal of the decals necessitated reapplying most of the paint. Naturally! In the end, a lot of trial and error to get the decals just right was required and my dad has printed probably close to 20 A4 sheets to get to where we wanted to be, with variations in color, windows painted black or grey, smaller and bigger sizes… I probably have enough left for 10 more Comets, but they’ll all be slightly different! Home stretch then…. I had replaced the front wheel bay and landing gear with some nice resin and metal parts intended for a Nimrod, which gave some much needed detail in these crucial areas. I also tried ordering resin wheels intended for the Nimrod but this didn’t work out so I polished up the kit wheels as best I could. I added some pitot tubes, a light wash to the moving surfaces, a few coats of future and satin finish and that was it. It all sounds a bit negative when I reread this, but it wasn’t like that. I did have a lot of fun building this kit and seeing it progress over time, and it’s most definitely my favourite model. Now if only I had a safe place to put it…
  24. Sources: http://www.marshmodels.com/main.asp?s=Aerotech http://www.ipmsdeutschland.de/news.html V.P.
  25. De Havilland Comet 1A G-ANAV – BOAC South African Airways Charter – 1953 FRsin (injected plastic) kit. A fairly rough kit but it turned out OK. The decals were excellent. Undercarriage was replaced because the kit items were too small. Finish is Halfords Appliance White on top with Halfords Nissan Silver below, coated with Rub N Buff, polished and sealed with Klear. Commission build for a Comet enthusiast.
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