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Found 23 results

  1. Started this AFV Churchill after reading a very good book "D-Day to Victory' the Diaries of a British Tank Commander by SGT Trevor Greenwood This is the first 1:35 scale tank I have ever built and it has been fun to build. Brought aftermarket stuff like 75mm Gun Barrel, tank fenders, upgrade sets, Churchill engine from Resicast, set of AFV workable trucks and a set of Friulmodel tracks Did not take any pictures at the start so here it is with the two different tracks to see which ones I liked all the wheels had been made and bottom of hull glued With the upgrade set there were nice grills to be made so I made a jig so that I could solder them Then soldered up the smoke grenade holder Add the guards on the side a used small bolts to hold in place Until next time Regards Richard
  2. Dear fellow Britmodellers, this is Dragon's 1/72 Churchill Mk.III AVRE of 82nd Assault Squadron, 79th Armored Division, operating in North West Europe in 1944. I painted with Gunze acrylics and weathered with artist's oils and pastel chalks. The figure is from CMK. Photographs by Wolfgang Rabel. Thanks for your interest! Best greetings from Vienna.
  3. Afternoon folk's,finished Tamiya's Churchill as Ben Nevis 3rd Tank battalion Scots Guards,they landed in Normandy July 44 and ended up on the Baltic coast at the war's end after many month's of hard fighting.I figured being a Guards unit they would have kept their tank's in good order till the conditions took over so I kept the weathering to a minimum to show the tank not long off the beach,sprayed with Mr Colour paints which have a satin sheen which I only dulled with one light coat of matt,many thank's for looking in.
  4. KRK4m

    British infantry tanks in 1/72

    In contrast to the plethora of German and Soviet WW2 AFVs the British tanks are not so well represented among the 1/72 kits. Trying to build a Valentine Mk VI (small turret) there's only ancient ESCI (recently labelled as Italeri) Mk II or a "wargame" extremely simple Armourfast kit of the same variant. Which one do you consider worth bothering with? Another important British infantry tank is a Churchill. And here again we have to choose (leaving 1/76 Airfix aside) between the 40-years old Hasegawa one, the ESCI/Italeri kit of similar vintage and the expensive new tool from Dragon. Is the last mentioned worth its price? Which one is the best basis to build a Mk IV (squarish-type cast turret with 75mm gun) model? Some years ago I have seen also the Churchill under the Humbrol and Heller labels? Were they just rebadged Airfix kits or something other? After some 40 years break in AFV modelling I'd like to build some dozen of the most prominent WW2 tanks. What I need is accurate dimensions and sharp surface detail - interior doesn't count as all hatches will be closed. Could you help me with building such a stash?
  5. Hello and welcome to my very first post There are the first 1/35 scale Tamiya models I have built and was hoping some of you would be able to suggest improvements. I believe I am fairly good at making models but I need to venture into the more advanced weathering techniques to make them look like they have been used in a war, and not like they have just come out of the factory (which can still be a cool look). So I will explain my thoughts and opinions of each of these 4 models below and show you plenty of pictures of each: Tiger I: - I am quite proud of this model as it is the very first model tank I tried to make in 1/35 scale. I was very proud of the base as it really does look like the tank is digging into the ground as it drives over the grass. One thing I think needs improving on is making the tank look more muddy (since its driving through a field), but I'm worried of spoiling it. Also I think I should add some weathering like scratches or some weathering washes, suggestions? Panzer IV - One of my favourite tanks. Again quite proud of the base which is meant to look like a narrow, dusty gravel road elevated above a grassy field. Like with the Tiger 1 I would like to add some weathering to this, I would to give it a gravel-dust effect but I'm not really sure what to use. I am aware that one of the decals has come off, no idea where it went. And also ignore the unpainted panel on the inside of the turret-surround (hard to see on the pictures anyway), I made a mistake while making it and had no more paint to finish them haha. Churchill VII - I decided to base this one from the real life tank on which this model is based (as in the real tank with the same serial numbers etc). So I did lots of research on the real one and found out some very interesting things (pm me if you're interested). So this was made to be in the Hill 112 battle in Normandy which some of you may have heard of. With this model I decided to try to add some scratches as though it had been peppered with machine gun fire or just from general wear and tear. I did this by dry brushing some metallic paint onto the model, which I don't like the look of. Again fairly proud of this tank (bar the rubbish attempt to model scratches) but the base has much to be desired, but isn't quite finished. PAK-40 - I bought this model to have a go at the Vallejo Chipping Medium technique and I am very pleased with how well it worked. It's quite a faff but it paid off. I am yet to do the soldiers and the shells. I am quite pleased with how the mud mound turned out (I wish I had continued it round to the back side), the camera doesn't show it too well but I tried to create a crater in the mound as though a shell had hit it. Still need to paint the side of the base black. (Sorry for how large the pictures turned out) So there you go. I would greatly appreciate any feedback you have to offer One question, what paint would you use for bare steel? Thanks for looking Shaun
  6. This is a Tamiya 1/35 Churchill Mk VII backdated to an early WW2 era tank. The changes were removing the high bustle (post war) commanders hatch, and scratchbuilding a low bustle hatch. Removing the armour plate on the intake covers and adding the lifting lugs, removing the front and center section fenders, replacing all handles and tiedown loops with brass wire and strip, making periscope covers from brass strip, tow cable from fine solder and paint with Tamiya acrylics and wethering with oils and pastels. Hope you like, Colin
  7. Another build finished recently, i've been working on a few and this is the most recent, a tamiya churchill VII. Front fenders were left off as per the box art and i tried doing some tie downs on the kit on the turret but they didn't work! I've done more scraping and chipping including on the decals to make it look worn and used. Paints used were Tamiya.
  8. The Flying Dustbin Some of you may recall my starting this during the Achtung Panzer group build back last year. Like so many of my projects, it stalled for reasons I can’t now remember. So I thought I might resurrect it here. First, a recap: The PSC Churchill AVRE PSC Churchill AVRE by jongwinnett, on Flickr PSC Churchill AVRE by jongwinnett, on Flickr The boxing enables a variety of versions to be built (with more or less accuracy) PSC Churchill AVRE by jongwinnett, on Flickr Less than fifteen minutes was all it took to get to this point. If you are a war gamer, I imagine these easy build kits are a godsend PSC Churchill AVRE by jongwinnett, on Flickr PSC Churchill AVRE by jongwinnett, on Flickr At this stage everything was only dry fitted, since I wanted to lift this from its slightly toy like origins. Changes I considered were: - replace co driver hatch with sliding mortar loading hatch - drill out mortar barrel and add lugs, or replace with tube - add avre fittings to side skirts If you have any other recommendations then let’s hear them! The tracks are poor, and I contemplated getting a Dragon boxing to use for detail spares, rather like the IBG carrier supplied detail parts for my PSC Universal Carriers. Since a full run of track is not needed, it might be possible to replace the more visible sections with Dragon track. However, in the end I decided to live with the kit parts. Mud and dirt can cover a multitude of sins! PS I know I fitted the commander's hatch the wrong way round! I believe they call this next bit “modelling”, but I prefer bodging! Churchill AVRE by jongwinnett, on Flickr Churchill AVRE by jongwinnett, on Flickr Churchill AVRE by jongwinnett, on Flickr Cameras are cruel, the added armour plate on the side hatch looked square in real life. Ended up cutting another. Basic plate work complete, the next task was to fabricate the brackets. Plates by jongwinnett, on Flickr Brackets by jongwinnett, on Flickr Brackets and sliding hatch finished Untitled by jongwinnett, on Flickr They look a bit messy, but a coat of paint will hide many sins... Untitled by jongwinnett, on Flickr The barrel of the mortar was opened up as much as I dared, the plastic is soft and will break apart if I go much further. A metal tube would be a good bet, but I think this looks acceptable (just). Dry run by jongwinnett, on Flickr This was where it stalled. It was fun, although the black brackets took several attempts! It’s pretty much finished in terms of additions. At the time I wrote that I want to open up the second hatch space in the turret, look again at the inside returns at the front of the track runs, and add some hatch handles and some stuff around the rear plate, and a few other wee bits like that. Let’s see if I can finish it this time!
  9. Hello, here's my Dragon's Churchill Mk.IV...built from the box. It didn't go together as well as other kits from this manufacturer; there's some tension along the fenders that causes them to slightly bend inwards. I did not use Dragon's decal option (only one included) as a quick online search revealed that "Castlerobin IV" had actually a different type of gun. So out came the spares box, and a turret number from another Churchill (Matchbox' AVRE if I remeber correctly). Only the "4" (identifying North Irish Horse Regiment) from Dragon's decal sheet was used. Photographs by Wolfgang Rabel of IGM Cars & Bikes, Vienna. The model was painted with Gunze/Mr.Hobby acrylics, according to Dragon's instructions. Weathering with Artists Olis and Pastels. Hollowed out the exhaust stacks: Thanks for looking! Cheers from Vienna.
  10. Hi guys. I've now commenced making the diorama for the Tamiya 1/35th Churchill MkVII featured in my 'Saving a Churchill MkVII from the bin' WIP post. In that WIP, I originally intended to 'hide' most of the tank by submerging it in a ditch full of deep water, as I thought it would disguise the fact that I had messed up the paint job, but I did, in the end, 'save it'. I liked the idea of a ditch, or stream though. I have never tried to depict water in a diorama, and as this is my 2nd diorama since returning to modelling after a 35year absence, I thought it would be a suitable challenge. After all, why build a model and diorama, if you aren't going to push yourself and try new things? I had considered driving the tank across a ford, but the crew supplied with the kit are clearly chatting to someone beside the tank. I doubt they'd be doing that if the tank was actually moving. So the tank has stopped momentarily. Besides, the tank is dry and dusty, and I didn't want to have to do more work on it trying to make it look wet (not after all the problems I had trying to get rid of the original 'satin/gloss finish it had! - all that repainting, only to end up giving it a satin/gloss finish again!) I had a play around with the additional figures, the farmer, the motorcycle dispatch rider and the infantrymen, trying to fit them all in the space I had... and decided to leave out the farmer (this may change) The kit suggests that the crew are chatting to him, and that he is passing up a bottle of wine in gratitude to their liberating his farm/country/wife. I thought that the tank riders and the following infantry might have had something to say about the present. (Like 'Where's ours?') So, I'm going for the crew stopping the tank to chat to a dispatch rider, asking for directions as they are in 'bocage' terrain and a bit disorientated. Not exactly thrilling, I know... but I might be able to add some humour or intrigue at a future point. So... I started on the diorama yesterday and progress has been relatively swift as I had all the materials to hand already. These include: A chopping board. Polyfilla. 2 carrier bags full of twigs, roots and other assorted (and secret) plant parts. Static grass (though unfortunately, still no applicator) Astroturf. A small bag of cat litter. Bottle of 'realistic water' Pouches of assorted crushed brick/stone. Jars of herbs and spices. Several sheets of white plastic of varying thickness. PVA and CA glues. Acrylic, enamel, and watercolour paints. Galeria acrylic matt and satin varnishes and Galeria matt medium. Other stuff I've forgotten about for now. I took my chopping board and models and played around with the position of the tank and figures until I found one that I was happy with, then I marked out their positions directly onto the board with a marker pen. Then I played around with the positioning of the hedgerow, stream and other features and did the same. BTW I really likes these chopping boards, sourced from The Range and costing £7.99. They aren't too big or too small, and are sturdy and thick and nicely heavy. They are constructed from glued batons of hardwood, are around 18mm thick and will never warp. They will also withstand deep gouging. I say this because rather than build up a surface in which to create a stream/ditch, I have instead, gouged into the board to gain that depth. I then added a skim of polyfilla to the rest of the board, having scoured and gouged the surface to remove the coat of varnish and improve grip. A liberal scattering of cat litter was then applied to the 'road' surface, and ruts created with the tip of a lollipop stick. (I want the ground to be hard and dry, so there are few visible signs of tank-track impressions.) This will take some time to dry fully, so in the meantime I cut up strips of astroturf, clipped away at the 'blades' of grass to get some variation in length and then stuck them to the banks of the stream with CA. I then pushed the still-wet polyfilla up to the astroturf and blended it in with a dinner fork. Much more work will be done to this in the future. A thinnish coat of PVA glue was applied to the bed of the stream, and a thinner coat near the banksides. A sprinkling of cat-litter dust was applied along the edges of the stream while larger pieces of cat litter were placed in the deeper channel. I am still in the process of gouging out the rest of the stream and will add a very small wooden 'footbridge'. Photos to follow shortly.
  11. (Udate jan 13th This tank has officially been saved and is now available to view in the diorama 'Lost in France') Hmmmm. Brimming with confidence after my 1st build and diorama for many years, I immediately set about tackling Tamiya's 1/35th Churchill MkVII tank. All was going well. I had the turret, hull, wheels etc all assembled and then airbrushed base coats, oversprayed with dark green. Then I applied the decals. That's when things started going wrong. I used micro set solution. This left a satin sheen on the otherwise pristine finish. No matter, I thought. This will not show after a coat of matt varnish and all the weathering. Only, the matt varnish dried gloss. Now I know that in reality British AFVs painted dark green have tended to have a satin or even gloss finish (I'm thinking of the Saladin and Saracen in particular) so maybe I am being a bit picky, but I just HATE a gloss finish on models. And no amount of cleaning and soaking would get the blooming varnish off! So it looked as though the model was a 'binner'. Being a binner, and with nothing to lose, I wondered if I could scrape the varnish and paint off. A labourious and fiddly task. I did a test scrape, which worked, but to scrape a whole model? I have to confess something now... I am an old-school modeller, having been a school child when I last made models and as such, I still use enamel paints. Soaking an enamel-painted model in thinners doesn't do the plastic any good! So I decided not to bother. I thought some more, and figured that rather than bin it, I could use the Churchill as a piece of diorama scenery.... blow it up and tip it into a water-filled ditch. I could submerge a whole side of the tank in water, and only have to worry about 'fixing' the exposed surface. I could cover the whole thing in dried mud and hide a lot of it with bankside vegetation. So, today, I set about the task and attacked the model with 'dark earth weathering powder' applied in several washes of varying dilution and also applied 'dry' to wet surfaces. This has covered a lot of the 'glossy' patches, but not all. There are areas such as the side skirting and turret sides which still shine horribly (well, at least to my eye they do) More weathering powder will cover this up, I have no doubt, but I will end up with a tank ENTIRELY covered in mud. Still, it's better than nothing. Anyway, I am now wondering what I can do to 'fix' the 'dried mud'. Weathering powder comes off when handled too much, or rubbed with a brush and I'm not sure I want to risk another coat of the so-called matt varnish! Can anyone suggest the best thing to do now, and also what was my mistake in the first place? Using enamels, I've never bothered varnishing my models before. I just used to wet brush and dry brush them once the enamel was properly dry. Was I actually mistaken to varnish this model at all? Pics to follow shortly. Thanks, in anticipation, Badder.
  12. All In my youth I had the Matchbox version of this with the bridge that went up and down, so when I saw the conversion by S and S Models I had to have one http://sandsmodelsshop.com/product/172-psc-churchill-avre-sbg-conversion-offer/ and yes, I am unashamedly re-living my childhood!! The kit comes in 13 parts: 8 for the bridge (a combination of lead and resin) 1 A frame (lead) 4 for the winch (lead) My one aim above all else was to try and get it so that the PSC base model tank could carry the bridge into battle , drop it and then drive off, in the small scale battles I have with my young son. This meant I had to overcome two issues – reducing the weight of the bridge and weighting the tank enough so it didn’t tip over - and also devising a mechanism by which I could attach and detach the A frame, as the two small moulded lugs on the bottom are far too small and probably too soft for the job – the A frame was the hardest bit. On the whole the conversion was pretty straightforward but I wish I had spent time making sure the bridge parts were exactly the same length and properly square before I glued them together. Below are some photos explaining my journey. Enjoy!! Andrew ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Reducing the bridge's weight I did this by drilling and filing out some of the resin in between the struts. Stupidly, I did this after I assembled it, so got the angle wrong a couple of times. I now also wish I had spent more time with the filing out but I didn't want to risk reducing the structural integrity too much and it looks ok from a distance - you live and learn. Weighing the tank. Not having a lump of heavy metal lying around, this ended up becoming a three phase process - please try not too laugh too much but I am a newbie! 1) First I filled the base with some left over 2" pin tacks and glued the hull side on without checking if it was heavy enough - this turned out to be a bad idea! 2) After scratching my head for a while, I then hit upon the idea of filling the hull (through the small turret hole) with some left over brick mortar, as it would filter down in between the gaps between the pin tacks. Fast forward an hour of painfully slow pouring the mortar into the hull, after which I then slowly adding small amounts of water to help it set. I even did the same to the turret for good measure! 3) Step 2 was almost enough. However, the slightest nudge would tip it over, so i ended up gluing some sprue off cuts to the front just in front of the tracks. Whilst you wouldn't do this for a big display model it's unobtrusive enough for war-gaming. (Rusting pins in view) Converting the A frame This was the hardest (and scariest) bit. In the end I chopped the small lead lugs off and very carefully and very slowly drilled up inside the bottom of the lead A frame bases I then got some thick wire, bent it half and glued it up inside the hole, so that it's possible to put it through the holes on the ends of the bridge and then split the ends to hold the bridge in place. I also added a sort length of plastic tubing as a cushion on the bottom of the A frame. Again this is slightly obvious if you look closely! The finished article I've used black thread for the cables as a temporary measure for test purposes and the 'block and tackle' is a small swivel joint left over from my fishing days. I might also drill the barrel out if I'm feeling brave.
  13. Good evening all Have seen some of the amazing things people can do on this site, it's with some trepidation that I post the pictures below....but you’ve got to start somewhere.... I made a few models (badly) in my youth when war-gaming and then nothing for a long time but got back into it last year after 20+ years, when my young son decided he wanted a model tank that he could play battles with. Below is a selection of some of the betters ones but I’ve still got a way to go especially when it comes to weathering and stowage. At the moment my aim is to get them looking reasonably like they're supposed to, which I think I've managed. Better historical accuracy will hopefully come with time. Thanks for your time and please be gentle..... Andrew PS you'll also probably notice I'm not a great photographer. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Armourfast Cromwells with some very basic stowage Plastic Soldier Company Churchills One has some extra stowage from S and S Models http://www.sandsmodels.com/ Armourfast Achilles x4 Again these have some additional stowage from S and S models. At some point I'll look at putting a couple of crew in. Also I know the weight should be 29 tons but I don't have any 29 ton signs. I also know the camo is not right but there are reasons (to do with my son) as to why I went with it. The bottom two are the first two models I finished after coming back to the hobby. I overdid the matt varnish on one of the but managed to rescue it (just). Plastic Soldier Company M5A1 Half track I have a total of three of these, of which this is probably the best. One thing that does annoy me slightly with PSC is some of the odd and inconsistent scaling. The 0.50 calibre MG on this model is WAY oversize but the ones on their Shermans are pretty close. Plastic Soldier Company M4A4 A couple of these have stowage/tarpaulin made of sprue off cuts covered in tissue paper, which is covered in PVA glue. I got the idea from someone on the Armourfast forum before it went offline (Dave if you ever see this - thanks for the idea). I also has to replace the .30 caliber bow MGs as they were as wide as the main gun!! I used short section of the same plastic I use for the aerials.
  14. Kicking off with my first AFV Club Churchill Mk IV with Mk5, L/50 6pdr Gun for this build Unit information TBC
  15. Now I'm cmopleting the buid of the two kits I bought to make my tribute to the brave North Irish Horsemen. I've used the data picked up during my research in another topic "The North Irish Horse ride from Argenta Gap to the Po river" The kits are these ones: Chrchill Mk IV NA 75 and the Chrchill Mk IV The first of the many questions, I suppose, to come is the simpler one. The colour. Th instruction sheet refers to a Gunze H73 defined Dark Green. I usually do not use the Gunze colours preferring Tamiya mixed tO achieve the proper colour or the Life Colours or Xtracrylics. Anyway considering the war period I suppose it' quite similar to a olive drab than to the early war bronze green. It's correct? Thank you in advance Ezio
  16. During my research about the Commonwealth troops that freed Ferrara after the Argenta Gap battle I found the North Irish Horse equipped with several versions of Churchill tanks. For this Regiment there are two precious sites the North Irish Horse Stead and Steel and the THe North irish Horse. They were part of the 25th Tank Brigade and supported the 8th Indian Infantry Division in the advance towards Ferrara and the Po river. The city was cleared on the 23rd April, the St. George's Day that is the patron saint of Ferrara and of course of England. On 24th they finally arrived at the Po banks. Now, while I'm trying to summon the courage to face a Vulcan Vickers Mk. VI in 1/35, I make a little diversion with a NIH Churchill at Ferrara on Spring 1945. The kit I've ordered and I'm waiting is the Dragon Mk IV so now I have to identify one tank that reasonably could have been there. The A, B, C squadrons fought the Germans in the ouskirts and in the industrial area so the first difficult task is to identify a possible MK IV that seems not too much used on 1945 ..... maybe I chose the wrong kit!!!! Here are two useful links for the insignia and for the different versions and names. The best thing could be finding a picture but date I found nothing. Searching the huge IWM site I found the Churchill in Italy photos nos. all part of the NA series: 24306 19757 14981 24288 23276 24460 23920 23788 24738 23277 18151 17144 14974 24305-36 23556 23274 22499 23041 22739 Someone has something? All the best Ezio
  17. Hi all, This is my first shot at a genre I have gazed open mouthed at over the years . Here is my Airfix Churchill Crocodile built from the box Pictures with follow J
  18. Hi All. This is my Churchill Mk1 Infantry Tank that I built about 7 years ago. This is the Cromwell Models resin kit that was mostly OOB but the filters were replaced with the later type that I also got from Cromwell Models, and the resin tracks were replaced with Friulmodel metal ones. Painted with Humbrol bronze green and weathered using acrylic pastels but kept to a minimum. This tank represents one vehicle from the North Irish Horse, Tunisia, 1942. Thanks for viewing. C&Cs welcome.
  19. Stormbringer

    Churchill MKIV avre question.

    Hi all I'm planning a Churchill mkIV avre using the Tamiya mkVII and the Legend conversion kit. Now I also have a resin fascine carrier and deep wading kit, my question is, would and Avre have gone ashore with both fascine carrier and wading kit fitted? or should I save one for another build? TIA Pete
  20. British Churchill MkVI Eduard 1:35 The Churchill was a heavy British infantry tank used in the Second World War, best known for its heavy armour, large longitudinal chassis with all-around tracks with multiple bogies, and its use as the basis of many specialist vehicles. It was one of the heaviest Allied tanks of the war. The origins of the design lay in the expectation that war in Europe might be fought under similar conditions to that of the First World War and emphasized ability to cross difficult ground. The Churchill was rushed into production in order to build up British defences against a possible German invasion and the first vehicles built had flaws that had to be overcome before the Churchill was accepted for wide use. The Mark VI was only produced in small numbers as the better armoured Mark VII was close to being released for service. The set, for the AFV Club kit, comes in Eduards standard poly sleeve with the adhesive flap at one end. Inside there are two small sheets of relief etched brass. The etching is up to the standard we have come to expect from Eduard with very fine parts and details. As is usual, some of the kits moulded details have to be removed before the etched parts are attached. The brass is quite thin and easily folded so annealing before use shouldn’t be required. The two sheets contain new engine intake grilles, bustle storage lid, front mud flaps extensions, lots of new fittings for the rear decking, straps and grab handles and cradles for the fuel tins on the rear of the tank. There are also new tie downs for the engineers tools complete with small details right down to the wing nuts, as well as strengthening straps for various areas around the tank. There are several items that are not provided in the kit. These include new storage boxes. There are a couple of items that I cannot identify or even see where they are used on the rather poor instructions, an area which Eduard really need to sort out. Conclusion The AFV Club kit is very nicely detailed out of the box, but as is the case with most injection moulded kits some parts cannot be moulded with the finesse that etched brass items can give. Thus this set will lift the kit to a new level of fine detail. Recommended. &listtype=search&searchparam=36233'> Review sample courtesy of http://www.eduard.com'>
  21. Hi all this is my first AFV Club kit. I've had it for ages and didn't realise how good it was. I've added fruil tracks and brass Besas. Bit of scratch building for the tool tie downs, springs etc, but mostly OOB. the suspension is fully workable and sprung by the way! Going for a small dio base as well. Ikea picture frame, foam, plaster, static grass, bit of PE etc Thanks for looking Nick
  22. Hi all, This is my Xmas project for while I'm in kent with the folks. The AFV Club Churchill mk IV with Lionmarc late turret. Pete
  23. Julien

    Churchill MKVI Tank

    Churchill MKVI as used by the Irish Army, pics by murfv taken at Curragh Camp, Co.Kildare
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