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Found 36 results

  1. Hi everyone This is my second su-30sm by Zvezda. I thought I would do a second one so I could correct the mistakes I did on the last one. The kit had nice details and Shallow panel line. I was going to add rivets but I could not find blueprints which h showed them so I only applied some on the metal bit in front of the gun as I could see them clearly in pictures. The kit did not need much filler and went together easily. I saw this camo online and thought that it would be fun to try and recreate. is first sprayed the engine colours before painting the whole model as it was easier than doing it after like I did last time. Then I sprayed the whole plane in AK's Blue Grey. I then masked the white camouflage using blue tac and then the same for the gunship grey part. I then sealed it in a gloss varnish as the plane in the pictures looked gloss. I kept the plane clean as I think it was a prototype which didn’t see much action. Thanks for looking.
  2. There is a 1/72 kit of the Soviet most widespread piston-engined chopper. https://www.scalemates.com/kits/mistercraft-f-04-mil-mi-4a-hound--1194890 Between 1953 and 1988 almost 4000 of them (the total of US H-19 and H-34 combined) were used all over the Eastern hemisphere. Hundreds of them - serving in African and Asiatic countries - wore multi-colour camouflages. Even Czech and Polish examples were painted in two (or even three) greens over blue. But I have never seen a Soviet Mi-4 sporting the multi-colour uppersurface camouflage except for this specimen from the Mistercraft F-04 box lid. And I wonder if anybody of you have ever met a multi-colour (i.e. not plain green over blue) camouflaged Mi-4 in Soviet service? Is the Mistercraft scheme true or fake? Chers Michael
  3. Not one, but TWO new facsimiles of 1942 Royal Navy camouflage documents are now available! Similar in nature to our previous facsimile of C.B.3098 1943 edition but using the earlier Western Approaches, 507A and C and MS & B camouflage paints, Confidential Admiralty Fleet Order 679 from April 1942 and 2146 from October 1942 have never been seen except by those who have been to The National Archives at Kew, London for many decades. C.A.F.O. 679/42 contains 51 full-colour camouflage designs for destroyers and smaller ships in Western Approaches, Admiralty Dark and Admiralty Light type designs, whilst C.A.F.O. 2146/42 builds upon this adding 17 Dark-Medium type designs for the same classes of ships to use. These contain the following classes: Town destroyer, V&W destroyer, S destroyer, A&B destroyer, E&F destroyer, Tribal destroyer, J&K destroyer, Hunt destroyer, Egret sloop, Flower corvette, Halcyon minesweeper, Mersey trawler, Gem trawler and Isles trawler. https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/collections/royal-navy/products/royal-navy-camouflage-c-a-f-o-679-42-sea-going-camouflage-designs-for-destroyers-and-small-ships?fbclid=IwAR0jJUqHz86AoAQsfwydXc72IJ9BXbpWg4p6jTTw5344g-N_5nB4jqlqYS0 https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/collections/royal-navy/products/royal-navy-camouflage-c-a-f-o-2146-42-dark-medium-tone-camouflage-designs-for-seagoing-ships?fbclid=IwAR3cS-ZKtdwDghoypf99hhzYP-zXudNkUKjbzbpEimOnNssQ6jfvtdoHA3k
  4. Hello guys, While researching the markings for my RF-101 build, it looks to me that different-sized national insignia were used on the camouflaged RF-101 Voodoo. The decals provided with the KH kit are somewhat larger from what I see on the period photographs. My question is: what is the 'official' size of the 'ministars' used on USAF combat planes during this period? Thank you for your help. Cheers, Quang
  5. Hello everyone. This is more a question than a review. Since coming back to the modeling world after a thirty plus year absence, I am still trying to build my arsenal of tools to make life easier for me. Early on, I kept reading about a product called Blu Tack, and I had no clue what that was. Then curiosity got the better of me and I finally asked someone to explain what the product was, it's uses and where I might find it online, since I reside in the Philippines. One problem with my location is shipping. Anything that I can't find locally, I have to order from china/HK most of the time. The problem with that, no matter what I order, I am always hit with an additional import duty, making it painful when shipping is included. Basically I spend three times on products that most people can pick up for pennies in their local hobby shop. So in my quest to find Blu Tack, I keep running into another form of poster hanging clay from a company called Faber-Castell, which I don't think I have ever heard of until moving to the Philippines. This is their version of Blu Tack I am curious if anyone has heard of this product, and if it is suitable as an alternative to the more expensive Bostic original, and can it be used safely on painted surfaces? Thanks in advance for any feedback regarding this product. Since it was so inexpensive and I did not have to worry import duties, I went a head and bought three packs for less than $4. If nobody has used the product, I will be a Guinea pig and try it out. Since I am still not able to start building yet, it might be a while before I can test it out, but I will remember to provide feedback when the time comes. Anthony
  6. Hi All, I'm working on this 1/35 WSS panzer commander from Alpine Miniatures for a Hetzer build. I'm painting his uniform in the 1944 Dot-Peas camo pattern which was issued to tank crews later in the war. He's painted using Vallejo acrylics and I used a photo reference to try to replicate the pattern as accurately as possible - the tanker camo patter seems to vary slightly from the WSS infantry pattern. A little tidying up required and then he's ready to fix in the Hetzer. Thanks for looking, Andrew
  7. Hi, I have just started the 1/72 Zvezda Me Bf 109 F-2, and it is a great kit! I have decided to use the Xtradecal X72-162 sheet, with a view to do the second option: White 2 of III/JG 53. I have been searching my doc and the internet for a photo of this specific plane, but to no avail. XTradecal confirm that there is indeed a photo of the plane in the following book: Malta: The Spitfire year 1942: page 126. So if any of you happened to have this book, I would really appreciate if you could send me a scan of this photo. Furthermore, Xtradecal stipulates that the mottle camouflage on the sides is RLM 02, 70 and 71. I would personally see the mottle in RLM 74 and 75. If any of you has any idea on the above. please let me know. Thanks a lot. JR
  8. To create models without decals First of all is to achieve a camouflage of your personally choice. Second is to get your personal markings Third is to get your stencils on the model All of them without carrier film and without silvering. How to achieve this goal will be subject of my posts now. The camouflage is the first one. As example the A-4 from the IAF. The markings the second one. Here as example the Tempest from Special Hobby in 1/32. The stencils are from HGW, and they will be subject of a seperate post. How to make masks for spraying camouflage of an a/c? First of all, we have to settle a few things: · Do you have photo sources? · Do the photos contain a top view, a side view right and left? · Without distortion? · You know how to handle a photo-editing program? · You have access to CorelDraw? · You know Tamiya masking foil in size 250x180mm? · For cutting we need a glass plate of a size of a small book · And a special tool: Special tool from Japan from Airtex I checked it right now, and it is only available in Japan or via Japan. This tool goes round every tiny curve without any edges! The curves are smooth and elegant. To prevent any distortion of the sprayed surface, I use Mr.Color C-colors. The H series dries too slowly and the layer is too soft. It is my way, to spray most areas on the a/c. As well as national insignia and markings. I do not use a plotter, since I do not want to do it that way. This is too much for me, so I want to do it easily. I prefer to buy my masks for this purpose. Happy modelling
  9. Hi, Just doing an LVT 4 at the moment, intending it to be a USMC one, ideally Pacific, 1945, but if not, Europe, 1944 at least. It’s all going well, but I cannot find out what colour they would of been. The instructions say Humbrol 86, but that’s a light green, when it would appear most where Olive drab, 155. However I also see pictures over grey American vehicles which would be 66! Yet still there are vehicles in 86. So I’m kind of clueless at the moment. If somebody could give me a decent insight or source to American vehicle paint scheme that would be very much appreciated. Many thanks, PlasticSoldier
  10. Hello ... Does anyone know if the early D Stuka’s in North Africa & Italy have a Sand Filter ? If so was it mounted to the upper starboard intake on the cowling ? Also I’m looking for any schematics for the outer wing bomb racks and/or drop tank mounts ? Any and all help will be greatly appreciated ? Thank you in advance. Dennis
  11. Couple of HobbyBoss Yak-38s from two different theaters. Begemot decals had good paint reference that helped with the colors (which were AKAN) and the pattern. I find the kit to be a relatively easy build, definitely look the part but in are need of lots of aftermarket assistance. I used plenty of Quickboost resin replacements, Dream Model PE to name a couple.
  12. I wonder if anyone cares to explain this camouflage: https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/205209687 Thanks in advance
  13. Hello, I am now building HMAS Canberra in 1/700 as she appeared just before the time of her loss at Savo Island on August 8th, 1942, but I´ve got an aircraft-related question. She carried a Supermarine Walrus on her catapult at that time and I am trying to find out how this particular aircraft was camouflaged. Unfortunately, there are only a few photos of either Canberra or her sister ship Australia from that time period, neither of them giving a really clear view of the Walrus to be able to tell it´s colours. The regular RAF Temperate Sea Scheme (Extra Dark Slate Grey / Dark Slate Grey / Sky) seems to be an obvious guess but it would be great if anyone had a more sound opinion or even evidence. Thank you!
  14. Until I discovered how to paint Multicam, most of the modern U.S. figures have required me to paint them in the digital ACUPAT. This is, without doubt, the most difficult pattern I have ever tried to paint for a simple reason: colour. I once did Woodland MARPAT on four Marine figures and they turned out well because the colours worked, but ACUPAT is a nightmare for it. There doesn't seem to be any official colour palette for it beyond the original, which is way too dark. Most of the time when you see pics of it, its almost bright grey and all of myfigures so far have tended to be on the darker side (I would spray with Tamiya Buff, then striped it with Dark Grey, then paint on more Buff to represent the pattern). It somewhat creates the effect, but its still too dark. Even the ACU decals supplied with the Trumpeter Stryker Medical team seem incorrect, giving the whole thing a green tint. So I was somewhat pleased to discover this: I looked up the associated blog and discovered the colours mentioned are Vallejo. So I thought, great! I bought up the colours, did the listed mixes and...they don't match. They don't match the real thing or even the figure above. The colours are completely wrong, as are the specified mixes (not to mention the percentages aren't listed, which is a pain). In fact most of the mixes seem to have a base of Deck Tan over Khaki Grey, which just from a quick look at the bottle, tells me its not going to mix into anything like that shown. I must say I find this supremely irritating. Not only did I purchase the four colours particularly because of this (£10 to do so), but they seem to be incorrect with perhaps the exception of the Deck Tan, but even then its a closer match when used unmixed. In fact the only mix that looks like it might work as stated is for the boots. Can anyone shed light one what mixes would produce the results above? Being a stickler for as much accuracy as I can achieve with what's available, not getting the colours right really eats me up. Thanks, Gaz
  15. Hi, For my next project I just wondered if I could get peoples opinion on how best to paint up the alternative scheme on the Italeri 1/72 Jaguar GR1. The art work on the box is as follows: I presume I paint the standard Grey/Green pattern, mask off and spray the flat white, pretty obvious but the question I have is would you apply the decals before the white goes on as the artwork seems to indicate this would be the way to go. Is there anything I need to take into consideration if I do apply decals before the white coat is applied, and can anyone foresee any issues in doing it this way. i was thinking I should maybe apply a couple coats of Klear after decals and before the flat white, do you think this is advisable? Thanks in advance! Mark
  16. Hi everyone, I am building Revell's 1/72 Ju-88 A-4. The kit features a colorful bird (4D+DT) from the 9 Staffel of III/KG 30. The instructions suggest that the engine cowlings, rudder, and the elevators should be yellow, while lower wingtips and fuselage band should be white. I have tried to find some photos for this color scheme, but have come short thus far. So here is my question, can any of you confirm the overall yellow engine cowling and elevators? To me, this seems odd, but not unfeasible. Any help is appreciated. TIA Jan
  17. Hi, I have recently finished building my Revell 1/72 M60 tank and just wanted to start painting but i dont know how. Heres the problem: I wanted to paint it as a vehicle of Reforger 85` as it is depicted on the boxart (http://www.revell.de/fileadmin/import/images/bau/03140_%23BAU_M60_A3_2015.PDF first painting scheme; Boxart: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234987966-m60-a3-172-revell/) as I like the orange identification marks and i have a picture of it (https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/6d/M60A3_Panzer.jpg ) though in the instruction it is supposed to be a four-tone camo scheme (while it isn´t MERDC summer verdant (http://www.cybermodeler.com/armor/m60/m60_profile01.shtml) as the colors nor the scheme are matching, the boxart shows mostlikely a standart NATO three-tone camo and the original pictures isn`t much help either so: How should I paint it? Thank you in advance Levin
  18. I am about to start the Airfix Dornier 17, but have an old Frog one to make too. One Luftwaffe scheme is enough, but I fancied a Finnish one with the white overpaint. However, my references differ as to their basic scheme. Either they retained the Luftwaffe 70/71 splinter, or they were repainted into the Finnish olive green and black. I don't have a lot of photos of them without the white, but they would seem to be in a different pattern to the Luftwaffe which would suggest repainting. Views with the white has such contrast that it is difficult to make out anything about the underlying scheme. Can anyone either confirm that they retained the original colours before the white was added, or show me what the pattern was in the revised colours?
  19. A fun site, not really for experts but more for children, i think. Sorry for clogging this otherwise very accurate resources section! But i think it can be a nice read for a modeller who is stalling on a build for example. Here is: A beginner's WWII aircraft camouflage and markings guide. (there are a few mistakes however, sorry but i have no connection what-so-ever with the site so cannot change anything about it) http://www.fritzthefox.com/camo_guide.html Also, a funny speculative article about the F-35 versus the spitfire, the EE Lightning against the spitfire, and other dissimilar warfare ideas. http://www.fritzthefox.com/f35_vs_spitfire.html Or google "fritz the fox". Regards, Johnny.
  20. I have been working on this one on and off for a couple of months, using a part-built Revell Hurricane IIc which I bought and tidied-up, and decals from the venerable old Esci Hurricane/Kittyhawk sheet. Given a choice of three or four conflicting profiles and no photograph I could find, I decided to please myself and stick with the kit-supplied spinner, painted in the undersurface colour (for which I chose Azure Blue), use Middle stone for the base colour of the nose and wing leading edges, and then use Dark Green to supply the pseudo-Italian style squiggles and rings (hence "sand and spinach" from the colour or "Spaghetti" from the shape.) I replaced the broken-off aerial mast with one cut from sprue but other than that and the decals it is built straight out of the box. I'm fairly happy with it. Underside: Topside: Head-on: "In December 1941 the squadron moved to Egypt for defensive duties, before in June 1942 beginning to fly offensive sweeps over the Western Desert in support of the 8th Army. The most dramatic incident in this period came during the German retreat after El Alamein. On 13 November Nos.213 and 238 Squadrons were moved to a desert base 180 miles to the east of Agedabia, and well behind enemy lines. Over the next two days they destroyed or damaged nearly 300 enemy vehicles, before withdrawing on 16 November before the Germans could react." (Rickard, J (pending), No. 213 Squadron (RAF): Second World War, http://www.historyofwar.org/air/units/RAF/213_wwII.html)
  21. I'm building one of the new Airfix AV-8As, and the camouflage pattern carries over to the underside of the wing. The wing leading edge is no trouble to mask, but the wingtip is. There is no convenient panel line to follow, and winging it freehand (sorry) is bound to end in tears. Then the flash of inspiration: Get some 8mm Tamiya tape and put it on the underside of the wing lined up with the outboard outrigger fairing on one edge- Leave some excess on the wing trailing edge. Trim the excess tape from the wingtip. Use the trailing edge excess as a tab to peel the tape off gently. Reapply the tape inboard of the edge of the wingtip, checking against the outrigger fairing to make sure it is straight. The masking follows the curve of the wing and has a regular spacing from the edge of the wing. Finish masking the rest of the wing and paint away. A useful tip, or stating the obvious? It works for me at least, and I hope it does for you too.
  22. Schlactflieger


    Does anyone know what camouflage and markings were carried by the swordfish that attacked the Bismarck?
  23. Hello everybody, I just wonder why Japanese navy aircraft in the latter part of the war seem to have been painted green on the upper side. Most fighting took place over more or less tropical seas where the water appears rather blue. The camouflage schemes of the US Navy reflect that. By contrast in the North (or in higher latitudes) the colder, nutrient-rich water appears more greyish and greenish. That is where the Extra Dark Sea Grey and Dark Slate Grey of the FAA fit in well. Maybe the green on the IJN planes was due to the fact that hiding on the ground (on land) became of paramount importance once most Japanese carriers were sunk after 1942, but the planes still flew a lot of time over water. Any thoughts on this topic? Ole
  24. Hey All So *Spoiler Alert* I'm throwing together a what-if RCAF Mirage 2000, however, I can't rightly decide on what camouflage scheme to use. Seeing as how it was in competition against the F-18, using the CF-18 style low-viz camouflage would make sense, however, every real Mirage in the world has some sort of two/three tone scheme which makes me think that the CF-5 or CF-104 camouflage would look good. Any ideas? Regards ANS
  25. Hi all, I am considering building a B-25 Mitchell and would like to finish it as an aircraft that was based in either North Africa or the Mediterranean. Whilst looking through my references and trawling the internet I keep coming across profiles of aircraft which are painted in a disruptive upper surface camo of sand and green which I really like, the only problem is that I cannot find a single photograph to back any of these schemes up and I don't want to build something in a spurious scheme. I was wondering if any of you could either point me in the right direction or disprove these schemes once and for all, either way I will be happy as there are other schemes I could use. Thanks in advance. Craig.
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