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Found 17 results

  1. Oh well, I feel committed now even though a bit of initial research shows I may have picked a 'hard' kit albeit for a real 'looker' of a subject, the Albatros DVa. From Wiki, the Albatros D.V was a fighter aircraft used by the Luftstreitkräfte (Imperial German Air Service) during World War I and was the final development of the Albatros D.I family, and the last Albatros fighter to see operational service. Despite its well-known shortcomings and general obsolescence, approximately 900 D.V and 1,612 D.Va aircraft were built before production halted in early 1918. The D.Va continued in operational service until the end of the war. The D.V closely resembled the D.III and used the same 127 kW (170 hp) Mercedes D.IIIa engine. The most notable difference was a new, fully elliptical cross-section fuselage which was 32 kg (71 lb) lighter than the partially flat-sided fuselage of the earlier D.I through D.III designs. The prototype D.V retained the standard rudder of the Johannisthal-built D.III but production examples used the enlarged rudder featured on D.IIIs built by Ostdeutsche Albatros Werke (OAW).[2] The D.V also featured a larger spinner and ventral fin. The only significant difference between wings of the D.III and D.V was a revised routing of the aileron cables that placed them entirely within the upper wing. The D.V entered service in May 1917 and structural failures of the lower wing immediately occurred. Front line pilots were considerably dismayed and many preferred the older D.III; Manfred von Richthofen was particularly critical of the new aircraft. Albatros responded with the D.Va, which featured stronger wing spars, heavier wing ribs and a reinforced fuselage.[8] The modified D.Va was 23 kg (51 lb) heavier than the D.III but the structural problems were not entirely cured. Use of the high-compression 130 kW (180 hp) Mercedes D.IIIaü engine offset the increased weight of the D.Va.[9] The D.Va also reverted to the D.III aileron cable linkage, running outwards through the lower wing, then upwards to the ailerons to provide a more positive control response. To further strengthen the wing, the D.Va added a small diagonal brace connecting the forward interplane strut to the leading edge of the lower wing. Apparently, the kit more represents the DV so, there is a bit of additional bracing and control wires which can be added to better represent the DVa. (Plus, I have read that the kit may have detail issues with the spinner, prop blades and engine as well as having the standard no cockpit details). I'll also do rigging which is fairly simple on this aircraft. Lastly, producing a 'varnished spruce' finish on the fuselage and getting the right shade of 'mauve' for the camouflage could be challenging, or even character-building! Here is the kit then:
  2. Ventora3300

    Bristol Fighter F.2B

    I'm feeling confident about finishing the Comet 4B now so here is the venerable Bristol Fighter F.2B to fill the gap for '1956' - confirmed on the Airfix Tribute Forum and Scalemates agrees. I've actually got two 'boxings' of this kit - one from 1962 in the well known 'Red Stripe' bag and one from 1987 in the 'no explosions / blueprint background' with different transfers for 5 Squadron. The box is / was still sealed and you can see that at one time in its career, it was on sale in Selfridges (no less) for £1.75. The older kit looks good with no flash but the transfers...! Those roundels look like eyes squinting sideways! Instructions are the traditional 'locate and cement' kind that actually educate you in all the aircraft terminology. Date inside the fuselage says 1957 - that makes the kit older than I am. Needs to be handled appropriately. I've decided to 'squirrel away' the early kit and build the later one - I'm not an antique dealer, honest! Here it is and it is from the period when the kits made in France - the plastic is more silver as opposed to silver-grey. Still a lack of flash though and the decals are good. I think I built the 'Dogfight Double' version of this first time round (last century) and this time I fancy trying some rigging (gulp) and a 'wood effect' on the prop - there have been bags of tips on BM.
  3. Hello all, Well, I wasn't intending on taking part in this GB but the Swordfish has been somehow making it's way to the front of the cupboard regardless of which way I pack the boxes away! It's obviously trying to tell me something. Anyway here I am with Airfix's 1/72 Swordfish Mk.1. I have been looking forward to building her and her floatplane sister who is patiently waiting for the next floatplane/flying boat GB. I'm not a Swordfish aficionado so I'll hopefully get a few pointers along the way. I have become thoroughly addicted to the group build way of things mainly because taking part has got me to build more in the last few months than I have in a similar number of years, starting with the F104 STGB, then the BM10th, currently the Hawker (Siddeley) also the RAF100th, Airfix golden years, Grumman........ So in for a penny as they say. Here's the gratuitous shot of what is actually a considerable amount of plastic!
  4. This was my entry to the Tiger Moth GB back in the summer of 2015. I didn't manage to finish it in the time frame of the GB and it has been untouched since. I'll try to finish it now. Thanks for looking. ----------------------------------------------------------------- Hello, As if I didn't have enough ongoing builds, I decided to participate in this GB. I will be building Airfix's 1/72 Tiger Moth in RAF Flight Training School colours, 1940. Here are the kit, sprues and decals: IMAG2533 Here's the camouflage scheme: IMAG2535 The kit is nicely detailed out of the box but I will add Eduard's PE fret to the build. I have this on order with my LHS and it should arrive in mid-August. Until then I won't be doing much on the kit, if at all. The aircraft will be rigged, of course. It will be done with elastic fishing line glued with CA. That's all for now. Thanks for looking. Jaime
  5. Good evening fellow modellers. Recently, I bought this rather old kit, offered by Revell for a bargaining price, so naturally I could not resist it Naturally, some serious sanding was needed (especially pin marks, they're everywhere!): I've supplemented the cockpit with rib structure, seat and basic instrument panel: Painted wings and fuselage: Then decided that this kit deserves better than Spandau machine guns provided and bought Eduard's offering: Decals were quite a pain to apply, they were thick and did not respond to any decal softener at all: All in all, fitting between bottom and top wing is not ideal but with some elbow grease and a lot of patience, hey presto: There are still some things that need to be made: additional wiring, replacing wire that spans from cowling to wing with a thinner one, finish undercarriage, add pipes between engine and cooler in the wing, seatbelts, weathering, etc... Stay tuned Regards, TonkaGR.1
  6. Hi All, This will be my first WIP and just my second build after circa 30 years of a layoff from kit building. After such a long break I reckoned I'd be pretty much be starting from scratch again so picked up a few of Revells' old Bi-Plane kits as practice pieces before getting stuck into some of the nicer or more complex kits that are on my wish list. I also reckoned that I could do with some inspiration and guidance along the way which led me to lurking here before eventually joining the forum and getting involved. My first attempt was an Airfix Vampire which I ended up painting twice and still not being happy with the end result but it was an enjoyable experience and I learned a lot. It ended up like this... Vampire T11 B by Martin Fay, on Flickr Vampire T11 by Martin Fay, on Flickr I've got a pretty thick skin so constructive criticism and advice along the way is both welcome and appreciated.
  7. Hi. I present my new model with topic "Yellow Wings". This time: Grumman FF-1 (FiFi), which is my first biplane. Model present FF-1 with VF-5B "Red Rippers" on the USS "Lexington" in 1934. ---- Previous parts: Yellow Wings part 1 Northrop BT-1 Yellow Wings part 2 Vought SB2U-1 Vindicator Bye for now, Jaro
  8. cathasatail

    Airfix BE2c 1:72

    Morning all, I haven't done a WIP in a while so I thought I might have a go with the new Airfix BE2c (1:72). I'm planning to do this as an "out of the box" build-apart from one or two scratchbuilt details along the way. First, the kit. A nice, small and sturdy box The contents. Exceptionally good decals, very neat! Clear windscreens without any blemishes, the only problem is that they are terribly small! The sprues- one or two ejector pin marks on the inside of the fuselage- but these are out of sight when the cockpit is fitted. Sam
  9. dpm1did1

    Wiffing a Walrus

    Having a break from painting (a wall not the plastic) I glanced at the stash and thought " why have I 3 biplanes and 2 Parsols when I hate rigging?"...and thus the story begins... Would it be sacrilege to wiff with a Matchbox Walrus? Probably not thanks to the Revell re-issue, albeit without the multicolored plastic we all love so dearly. ok so ideas now began to form in my crazy mind... Turn this: into this: From Turning to Burning. Or maybe this: Monoplane it (although Supermarine already beat me to this with the Seagull) Or a simpler: Just drop the rigging, and repaint in a new scheme wether alternative warbird or civi. Of course there other whacky options: 'gunship' - rockets, torpedos, turrets etc 'electric' - long before the EKA-3, predating the F3D-2Q, and making even the TBM-3Q seem positively modern. '2000' - well if Dornier can modernise their WW2 vintage boats... 'racer' - didn't a Walrus do a lap at Reno? Not looking like this... ...and I'm sure there more! Some things would be hampered by the rather bare stores box, others by the skill box - but nothing by the 'outside the box'
  10. At Wonderland Models we have three new plastic model kits from Eduard. The new releases include: The 1/48 Aussie Eight Spitfire Mk.VII Dual Combo Limited Edition, a 1/72 Mikoyan-Gurevich MiG-15 UTI Profipack, and the 1/48 Spad XIII Weekend Edition. For full details see our current newsletter here.
  11. CymroPenguin

    1/72 Sopwith Pup

    Hey everyone , This is my 1/72 Airfix Sopwith Pup, finally got it finished after about 2 months of on and off building Please have read and take a look Brief History The Sopwith Pup was a British biplane fighter built by Sopwith Aviation Company in 1916. It entered service with 'A' Squadron of the RNAS (Navy Branch) in May 1916. By October that year, the plane was on the Western Front fighting with 8(N) squadron where it's exceptional performance saw it shoot down 20 German aircraft in 4 months. In December of 1916, the RFC received their first Pup, with it being used in 3,4,8 and 9(N) Squadrons before being replaced by the heavier-armed Sopwith Camel in mid 1917. The Camel was a much more successful aircraft, having credited over 1 200 enemy fighters destroyed; and it's ground-attack role also being effective until the end of the war. The Model I found this build easy enough for a beginner like myself, but the kit did need a bit of filler here and there and some work done, but hey can't complain The fit was alright, and the painting etc. was easy enough. Scheme This is Sopwith Pup N6453. Flown by Squadron Commander Edwin Harris Dunning DSC (1892-1917). Dunning was credited for the first pilot to land an aircraft on a moving ship, when on 02/08/1917 he landed on HMS Furious. Tragically, he was killed the second time he attempted it when the engine stalled on approach. He is buried at St. Lawrence's Church, Bradfield, Essex. Thanks for looking Dylan P.S Yes I didn't attempt rigging
  12. CymroPenguin

    1/72 Sopwith Pup

    Hey again everyone, So tonight after finishing my Tiger, I decided it was time to start something new. I found this on one of my shelves, don't know if they still sell them anymore - was £50 at the time though and I got it in 2009 (when I was 9, yes) for the 100 years of Naval Aviation thingy. As you can see, it contains a Sopwith Pup, Fairey Swordfish, Vought Corsair, Westland Lynx? (I think) and a Harrier. Here is the box:And with everything out : Sopwith Pup, Fairey Swordfish, Vought Corsaid, Westland Lynx (Navy) and Harrier. (FROM LEFT TO RIGHT)It also has in it a lovely little booklet (With history etc.) , instructions, sheet of decals, 12 X paints, glue + 2 X Brushes. Here is the scheme (only one here) that the plane follows in full colour! And the instructions - only one sheet of A4, very simple and nice - apologies for the blurry picture though Now, down to the actual kit. It was sealed in a bag which (I guess) helps to protect everything, there was not much flash on the whole and, being a smaller kit, it only came with 2 Half-Sized sprues of normal Airfix grey plastic. When I opened the bag: Now, the initial construction started off with gluing the Pilot (nicely molded in an apt position) who I called Jeff - into his seat Happy days as far as Jeff's concerned, he gets £1 for doing it (comparison). After I'd done that, it took me less than 5 minutes to assemble everything in the cockpit, the machine gun, engine and propellers. Here is a picture of them done, prior to painting. I have a vague idea of what I'm doing *insert comical laughter* at the moment, and when Jeff + his BEAUTIFUL cockpit are done then the 2 fuselage halves will be joined together to create something wonderful - my child. First plane ever hmm.... *****More updates when i build them***** (and paint, obviously) Thanks for reading guys + girlies CP
  13. Tom Cobbley

    DH 16 help needed

    I am planning a DH9a to DH 16 project. So far I have found good photographs on the net which explain a lot but only one basic drawing which appears to be taken from the Putnam publication. I am trying to understand how the original was converted, there is mention of a new 'wider' fuselage, the photographs appear to show the same width at the undercarriage but perhaps the taper starting further back. Is there a good published drawing of this aircraft which show the changes to the fuselage anound the cabin and engine? All help gratefully received .
  14. Had this one on the on and off for a couple of weeks, Only the second biplane I have ever rigged and the first 1:72 This was mainly a test run to see what pitfalls lay ahead when I tackle Airfix's new 1:72 Gladiator. I'm not entirely happy with this one but at least I know what to do on the next. And finally one for scale Thanks for looking
  15. Here’s my attempt at the 1:48 Accurate Miniatures Grumman F3F-1, which I completed several years ago. It’s built straight from the box, aside from the antenna wires I added. The kit is a real jewel, and goes together beautifully – any flaws are mine alone. Accurate Miniatures was my favorite model company, and I really hate they went under. The kits they produced were – and still are – some of the best examples of their kind ever made. I finished it with kit decals to depict an F3F-1 from Fighting Four deployed aboard USS Ranger in 1937.
  16. DaveCS

    Perhaps A Dumb Question On Rigging

    Hi There Normally I model in 1/72 and, mostly, WWII allied aircraft flown by/for the RCAF. Lately I have started to grow warm to WWI aircraft that were flown by Canadian pilots. I've been able to build and rig a nice little Roden Sopwith Camel and Eduard's little Nieuport 17. When I started looking for a decent DH2 though I decided to up the scale to 48th and attempt Eduard's boxing. Well, I've painted her and I'll apply the decals (likely tonight) and then it's a matter of rigging before I "finish" her off. My question regarding rigging is as follows: Normally, for 1/72 I would just rig the bird using stretched sprue - just seems to be the easiest in that scale. Well, now 1/48th is a bit larger and I have the right invisible mending thread to rig with but I've not drilled any holes just yet. Is it too late in the game? I've painted her and applied a gloss coat to put the decals down but that's the extent of it - struts have not yet been glued into place so I'm not too far along. In the future I'll be sure to plan a bit better but the excitement got the better of me this time around Just curious if I can still take care of it at this stage. Cheers, Dave P.S. I've read a good thread here already on the topic of how to rig.. ( www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234931805-rigging-for-a-novice/ ) so I'm not worried about tackling it.. just curious if I can still do it at this stage
  17. Rib Tape Decals 1:48 HGW WWI biplanes were usually fabric covered, and made predominantly of wood to keep the weight down, so any joins between the fabric surfaces and the inner structure would need reinforcing to prevent the cloth from ripping under stress. Rib tape was usually used to do the job, and was usually barely visible as a raised area over the ribs to which the fabric was attached. Other non-structural areas were basically sewn, or laced together using fabric edging tape with eyelets sewn in. This is a tricky effect to carry off on a model, and the smaller the scale, the harder it gets. HGW's new product, a rib-tape decal is an innovative and simple way of giving your "stringbag" a more authentic look. The product is a simple decal sheet, with 28 lengths of tape decal at around 14.5cm long each line. A further seven lines of stitching is included for good measure, and both designs have printed fixing and stitching to add more realism. The modeller simply cuts off a length of the correct type, wets the decal as usual and applies it to the model, lining it up carefully with the ribs. A little decal solution will help the tape snuggle down and conform to the surface below. Once dry, it can be sealed with varnish if you are modelling a bare linen aircraft, or painted over as is more likely. That may sound like a waste of decaling time, but the thickness of the decals, and the over-printed stitching patterns does show up under a further layer of paint, as can be seen from the example below, which was culled from HGW's website. Conclusion This is a great product, and well worth purchasing if you are looking to improve the look of your fabric covered aircraft. Simplicity of application is key, as most, if not all modellers can decal, and all you have to do is ensure that the tapes all line up. Highly recommended. Review samples courtesy of
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