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Found 8 results

  1. Inspired by Viper-30's Snow-Trac, I'm doing a Wombat portee in a Land Rover. I've been wanting to do this for a while but never found a 1/35 Wombat before. It's going to be a version that was in Berlin, so I may include the oddity of a SA80 and Wombat in the same build. I arrived in Berlin in 1990 and our Rovers were black and green and I saw a demo where they had boards tied to the side painted in a brick pattern which I'm hoping to recreate. The Wombat is from Scorpion Miniatures 9 (no surprise) and the Rover from Italeri. Unfortunately the Wombat came missing a piece, but a quick email and Michael immediately replied and promised it in the next post. Mistakes happen. Nothing important, only the upper cradle! This is only my second resin kit - the last one took 40 years to complete so hopefully this won't take as long. I used my Dremel to cut the sprue done to size and a sanding wheel to take them down to size. It worked really well with even part No 4, which he warns you about being fragile, came off in one piece. I won't go into details about the build as I don't want to steal Viper-30's thunder. I do wish it came with the portee wheels which come with the Snow-Trac but I'll have to bluff the bracket. Maybe a suggestion would be to sell them as an extra. The build from start to finish took a couple of hours. The Land Rover was mostly OOB but I couldn't help myself but add some details. The kit showed it's age but, being a Land Rover, the bad fit actually makes it more realistic. As I'm doing an open top I had to deal with ejection marks everywhere. I've left off the centre seat, doors, and windscreen. I don't remember ever seeing a centre seat in a military Land Rover, so I added the tool-box lid and three latches for that, the battery box, and fuel tank. I may use the third seat and fit it in the back. As I'm leaving off the doors, I sawed off the hinges to fill the gaps in the frame. I spend more time on the dash as it's open top. I added the lights dial and plate it sits on, the map reading light, the "air-con" handles, heater vents, and the heater selector handle (just visible in the right). I used extra-thin glue and a stiff brush to give it some texture. I used a strip of plastic card to fill the gap left behind it due to the lack of the windshield. I'm going to use a buckshee extinguisher and bracket to fit between the seats, instead of the bizarre looking thing that came with the kit. To do list: Seat belts Portee wheel brackets and straps Bluff the 4-wheel drive plate behind the gear-lever. Boards with brick pattern. The paint job will be straight IRR green and black, although the interior will be closer to bronze green. Although I've seen pictures of Berlin cammo Rovers, ours were green and black, as were our Foxes. Bill
  2. This looks tasty and like I said things have a habit of re inventing themselves....extra crown in that for somebody 😆 https://www.armyrecognition.com/weapons_defence_industry_military_technology_uk/new_challenger_2_streetfighter_main_battle_tank_mbt_of_british_army.html
  3. Got this kit for my birthday and it was one of the quickest I built, painted and weathered, including the base and figures. Then I left it for several weeks before putting the periscopes and antenna on lol. All done now, though. Finally got a use for those 1/35 bricks I'd had for years too 1/35 Zvezda T-34/85 and Tamiya Assault Infantry Thanks for looking Gaz
  4. Yakovlev Yak-3 "Onward to Berlin" Special Hobby 1:32 Lighter and smaller than Yak-9 but powered by the same engine, the Yak-3 was a forgiving, easy-to-handle aircraft loved by both novice and experienced pilots and ground crew as well. It was robust, easy to maintain, and a highly successful dog-fighter. It was used mostly as a tactical fighter, flying low over battlefields and engaging in dogfights below 4 km (13,000 ft). The new aircraft began to reach front line units during summer 1944. Yak-3 service tests were conducted by 91st IAP of the 2nd Air Army, commanded by Lt Colonel Kovalyov, in June–July 1944. The regiment had the task of gaining air superiority. During 431 missions, 20 Luftwaffe fighters and three Ju 87s were shot down while Soviet losses amounted to two Yak-3s shot down. A large dogfight developed on 16 June 1944, when 18 Yak-3s clashed with 24 German aircraft. Soviet Yak-3 fighters shot down 15 German aircraft for the loss of one Yak destroyed and one damaged. The following day, Luftwaffe activity over that section of the front had virtually ceased. On 17 July 1944, eight Yaks attacked a formation of 60 German aircraft, including escorting fighters. In the ensuing dogfight, the Luftwaffe lost three Junkers Ju 87s and four Bf 109Gs, for no losses to the Yaks. Consequently, the Luftwaffe issued an order to "avoid combat below five thousand metres with Yakovlev fighters lacking an oil cooler intake beneath the nose!" Luftwaffe fighters in combat with the Yak-3 tried to use surprise tactics, attacking from above. Unresolved wartime problems with the Yak-3 included the plywood surfaces coming unstuck when the aircraft pulled out of a high-speed dive. Other drawbacks of the aircraft were short range and poor engine reliability. The pneumatic system for actuating landing gear, flaps and brakes, typical for all Yakovlev fighters of the time, was problematic. Though less reliable than hydraulic or electrical alternatives, the pneumatic system was preferred owing to significant weight savings. The Model It was quite a surprise when Special Hobby announced a new 1:32 Yak 3 earlier in 2016, we reviewed it in its Hi-Tech form form here. This new boxing "Onward to Berlin" gives us all the original plastic without the Hi-tech parts, and decals three late war aircraft. All the parts are well moulded with no sign of imperfections or flash, just beautiful, yet quite restrained panel lines, rivets and other detail, where it should be. The fuselage and outer wing panels are smooth of these, as they are plywood. Whilst looking quite a simple build, there is a lot of detail included, particularly in the cockpit. The rest of the kit looks to be quite straight forward, with no hidden problems. The build itself begins with the assembly of the cockpit, strangely enough, and the fitting of the side consoles with their additional details to the tubular framework of what would constitute the side walls. The moulded rudder pedals are replaced with resin and PE, whilst the four part instrument panel, is assembled and detailed with decals for the instruments, a drop of Kleer or aqua gloss will help them stay in position and give them a glassy look. The two piece rear shelf is fitted with a radio set, the front bulkhead, with the cannon breech. All the sub-assemblies are then brought together, in addition to another section of tubular frame to build up the cockpit “tub” if you like. The fuselage halves are joined together once the resin exhaust stubs have been fitted and four piece tail wheel assembly, including resin wheel and PE scissor link, has been built up and fitted to the shelf that is attached to one half of the fuselage. The radiator chute is then fitted through the bottom of the fuselage. The tail surfaces are then assembled, each from upper and lower sections and the two piece rudder. The upper wing section is then fitted out with the fuel filler caps which unusually contain decals for what I presume fill levels, I know someone will come to my on these. The lower wing section is fitted with the radiator. The two wing sections are then glued together and the cockpit assembly glued to the centre section of the top wing, then fitted out with the seat, back rest, etc. The wing/cockpit assembly is the slid into the fuselage assembly, followed by the forward cowl deck and resin machine gun muzzles. The instrument panel is further detailed with the gunsight and its associated support rail, the coaming and cocking levers for the machine guns. This is then slide into the cockpit aperture, along with two extra side panels. Each main undercarriage is made from a main leg, resin wheel, PE details, shock strut and actuator, scissor link and two outer gear bay doors, before they are fitted to their respective five piece bays, which in turn are slid into the apertures in the lower wing section. The inner bay doors and their associated retraction actuators are then attached, along with the tail wheel bay doors and up lock fittings. The kit being finished off with the fitting of the three bladed propeller, headrest, three piece, or optional single piece, canopy, and finally the pitot probe. Decals The two decal sheets provide markings for three different aircraft, although they are all in the same camouflage. The decals are excellent as by Cartograf, and look to be in register with good density, important for the white markings and on quite thin carrier film. The markings included are for the following aircraft:- Yak-3, White 15 - 64 Guards Fighter Regiment. 4 Guards Fighter Division, 2nd Baltic Front, Autumn 1944. Yak-3, White 114 - 402 Fighter Regiment, 265 Fighter Division, 1st Belorussian Front, Spring 1945. Yak-3, White 10 - 6 Guards Fighter Division, 2nd Ukrainian Front, Spring 1945. Conclusion Another nice release from Special Hobby, and a better price point than the Hi-tech boxing for those who dont want all the resin & etch. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  5. While my P-40 reaches the stage of decalling and weathering, I thought I'd start something else off while I wait for parts to dry etc. Although I was planning originally to build a Zvezda Pe-2, following some armour builds here (especially PlaStix's IS-2 dual build) made me turn to my small armour stash. I feel that there ought to be a representative in the GB of the 4,000-odd Shermans that went to the Red Army, so I pulled out the Dragon 1/35 M4A2(76) kit. The box holds plenty of sprues, a small sheet of photo-etch, a metal barrel, a tiny decal sheet, and a dead spider. Couldn't say when I last built a vehicle. I guess it'll be a learning experience, just hope it's interesting, and I get a reasonable outcome before the end of the GB.
  6. Here is my Takom Chieftain Mk 10. I was pretty impressed with the kit overall - the tracks work well but I still managed to get them wrong around the rear sprocket. The camo scheme is not accurate but I was losing the will to live with all of the masking needed. I matched to Tamiya colours as best as I could as I 100% trust them not to clog my airbrush unlike some other brands. The turret baskets looked a bit empty so I got some Value gear tarps and the excellent Meng water bottles. It's probably a bit over weathered but looks really toy like once you've finished all the masking so it needs something. I think the real ones were pretty well looked after from the photos I found. Any comments or feedback would be appreciated. Thanks for Looking
  7. My Chieftain tank (1;35) done in "Berlin camo" wanted to do something different ,rivet counters bewarned this aint the one for you lol
  8. Search and Rescue Vessel Berlin Revell 1:72 The Seenotkreuser Berlin is a smaller, inshore/enclosed sea rescue vessel used by the DGzRs, the German equivalent of the RNLI. Revell have supported the organisation for over 25 years. Beginning with this kit of the Berlin, and continuing with the larger Hermann Marwede, over 100,000 Euros have been collected to date. The Berlin kit was originally released in 1988, with several re-releases since then with alternative decals, and this is one such kit. Used on the Baltic station the Berlin is constructed out of salt-water protected aluminium. It has a high level of seaworthiness with self righting capabilities. Driven by one 1,200kW MTU diesel engine and two 610kW MWM diesels, she has a top speed of 23knots and a range of 2,300 miles. With a nine man crew, four of whom are permanently on board she is also fitted out with a daughter boat located in a well in the after-deck, which has a low draft to enable her to be used in shallow waters and had a speed of 17knots. Contained in Revells usual end opening boxes with an artists representation on the front. Inside the kits parts are held within just one poly bag, the only exception being the clear parts which are contained within a separate poly bag. The kit is on six sprues of white styrene with separate one piece hull and the main deck. Considering the age of the kit the moulds have stood the test of time pretty well. Apart from numerous moulding pips there isn’t too much flash, and what there is looks like it will be pretty easy to clean up. The mouldings on the deck are quite nice, with hatches, anti-slip deck, and a couple of life raft canisters, (most of which would be separate in more modern kits). The moulded coiled ropes look a bit off though and would be better if they were removed, to be replaced with appropriately sized string or thread. The Model Building starts with the removal of the large moulding pips and flash off the lower hull, followed by the fitting of the two part centre prop faring and prop, the two outer propeller shafts, props and the three rudders. Turning the hull over the main deck can be cleaned up and fitted. To the deck the lower part of the main superstructure is started with the two main side parts, rear bulkhead with added entrance doorway bulkhead. The front of the superstructure is made up of five separate parts to create the complex shape. Care will have to be taken to ensure that these parts are fitted correctly with as few gaps as possible, although the indentation in the deck will help with this. The starboard side also has two doors fitted centrally in a V shape. To the inside of the superstructure the clear parts for the windows are fixed into place before the roof is fitted and the upper superstructure can be built up with two side parts and the front. To the rear of the upper superstructure a rear plate and a large block wheel are added. On the main deck just aft a capstain and its mounting is fitted, as is what looks like either a deck support or exhaust tube. The forward upper superstructure is further detailed with the fitting of the control panels, ships wheel, six part breakwaters, rear ladder and the mounting of the nameplates on either side. Aft of the steering position the rear bulkhead and engine intakes are fitted along with a two part liferaft canister. The main mast is built up as a separate assembly, but will require a fair bit of cleaning up before building can start. To the main part of the mast a rear plate is fitted before the lower aerial yardarms are added. To the front an radar platform is fitted along with the two piece search radar. Two further yardarms are added to the front and another to the rear. These are fitted with shorter aerials and a DF loop aerial. At the top of the mast is another small platform for a small whip aerial. The completed mast assembly is then added to the top of the engine intakes aft of the upper steering position. With the majority of the main build complete, the build moves to the small details. Starting with the building of the two five piece fire fighting monitors and the mains pipe with three control wheels added that goes between and is attached to the two monitors. The whole assembly is fitted to the aft end of the upper superstructure, along with a safety rail. Around the upper steering position two searchlights and a loudhailer are fitted and a siren is added to the roof of the lower superstructure. On the foredeck the three outlet hose pipe is added just in front of the superstructure whilst further forward a two piece capstain and another searchlight are attached along with the outer breakwater around the bows. Staying with the bow section the forward railings are now added, the two side railings being easy whereas the bow railings are moulded as a straight section and, as the instructions detail, will require immersing in hot water to bend into shape. Also on the foredeck, a small derrick, two anchors and a flag staff are fitted, whilst to the midsection a pair of railings, with canvas fittings and a pair of bitts are attached. Moving right aft, two five piece cabinets are built up, one fitted with a ladder whilst the other is fitted with a control box. These cabinets are then fitted either side of the launch well. Once again the railing fitted the quarter deck have to be bent to shape in hot water. The three stern railings are in separate parts and fit around the stern with two more bitts and a pair of fenders. The framework over the launch well is then constructed of one forward part and two rear parts. A further frame is then fitted over the two cabinets added earlier and joined to the two rear frames with two tubes. The last parts to be added to the main ship are the three fenders each side, tied on with the black thread included in the kit. Construction then moves on to building the inshore launch carried by the Berlin. The single piece deck is added to the hull along with the rear bulkhead of the cabin. The cabin itself is made up of two side parts, front piece and roof. Clear parts for the windows are fitted before the whole assembly is added to the hull. The final parts are the mast, with added searchlight, navigation lights, lifejacket, and radar reflector. Once complete, painted and the decals applied the launch is installed in the well on the stern of the Berlin. Decals The single decal sheet is well printed, in good register and quite glossy. The sheet provides the large SAR markings on the bows of both the Berlin and the launch, instruments for the steering position, various ensigns and flags, plus the choice of either naming the model the Berlin or Hermann Helms, for attaching to the boat and the stand on the nameplate. There are also a number of decals that look like anti-slip coating for the deck. Conclusion Although the moulds are getting on a bit, this looks like a nice little kit. It will take a bit of work to make it looking top notch, but once done it will make a great and colourful addition to any collection, particularly if it’s displayed next to its bigger sister the Hermann Marwede. Recommended Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
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