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This will be a multiple build, multiple component, 1/35th scale diorama. That being said, I'll see if I ever get there. It may indeed exceed the time allotted for this GB. And the moderators may prefer me to break it up into multiple threads. That's fine by me. Here is what I will be working with, in order of construction. I'll build the maintenance vehicle first... And I have some extra parts... Then, once that is finished I will build these guys...but not the local fellow and his mount. While they won't be tankers, the poses are perfect for my needs....the fellow crouching down scratching his head and the other guy looking on will be from the kubelwagen. The boss scanning the horizon is the driver of the Beetle... And I will also be using bits from this box...tool kits. repair kits, etc... And then this. With some extra goodies... This is something I thought did not exist. I was very pleased to find it. I hope it fits. Because you know, a breakdown in the desert can be a serious thing indeed. Wish me luck! And please tell me if you want this in separate threads...maybe I should read the rules...🤔 --John

Hi all, I am calling this done, it was a fun subject to start the New Year. I scratch built the part that dropped off the car when Charlie drove it back home. Thanks for looking in on this build guys. Finally, if you want to see the work in progress of this build, click the link below.

Hi fellow model fanatics, this is just a fun quick build to start the New Year. I used the engine from this kit last year to put into my Mad Max 2 Gyrocopter diorama. So, this is my way of using up the remaining kit parts. I found the figure on eBay; it needed the girl's hair lengthening to look more like the movie actress. She will be sitting on the Beetle, in a beach scene.

I was excited to build a brand new 1/8 scale kit from a new company after building so many Pocher kits over the years. Here are my quick building impressions of the new LeGrand 1/8 Collection VW Beetle kit (a complete kit version of the DeAgostini/ModelSpace partworks kit) a decorative metal sign is included body parts are prepainted with all necessary scripts and trim, wheels are metal, tires are softer than Pocher plastic parts are prepainted, bagged and boxed in groups (no sprues to cut!) the screws are nicely prepackaged in three compartmentalized boxes (you will have many spares remaining for other projects) Introduction Part quality and fit is good, all metal and most plastic parts have a nice pre-painted finish. There are no decals to worry about, all necessary markings are pre-printed. A small Phillips screwdriver is supplied with the kit, but more specialized tools can make the job easier. I have been using Wiha Precision Phillips screwdrivers sizes #00 x 40 mm, #0 x 50 mm, and #1 x 60 for a range of screw sizes and torque required. Pay attention to the numbering of parts in the assembly steps, which usually is the order in which they should be assembled. Many parts have D-shaped mounting holes or assymetrical mounting points that help ensure they are oriented correctly. Parts with Left and Right pairs are often stamped L and R to help with placement. It may also be helpful to consult the step by step assembly instructions for the subscription version https://www.model-space.com/landing-pages/beetle-uk/download.html. They are designed more for a novice modeler but include many more diagrams and photos, although the assembly order is different compared to our kit. For my build here I am ignoring those instructions and evaluating only the included paper manual. Group 1 Steps 1-4: The first assembly steps took longer than expected, as identifying some parts was harder without numbered sprues. Examine the master illustration of all parts in a "group" and their numbers at the start of each section, as the diagrams for the chassis and rear suspension assembly steps are a vertical view that is not always clear. Further ahead in the assembly manual the illustrations have a 3-D perspective that makes things easier. The wheels are metal! I was able to mount the tires after just warming them in my hands, but warming them with hot water or a hair dryer as the manual suggests will make it easier. Step 6: Parts 1.49L & 1.51R: be sure to orient them correctly according to the diagram; round hole faces front, towards steering rack, and oval hole faces rear. Parts 1.52 are small metal pins with a burred end; insert the smooth end first, then press with pliers or a small vise until the burred end which secures them sits flush in the hole. Step 7: Screw lower spring cups parts 1.56 & 1.61 to front suspension, then screw part 1.66 loosely to the chassis leaving as much wiggle room as possible. Then assemble the shock absorbers & springs which must be held together at the ends, compressed and fitted into place, before tightening part 1.66 to the chassis. Group 2 Steps 10-12: Assembly of the seats and interior floor is clear and straightforward. Step 13: Press the rear mounts for the seats in the correct holes and hold firmly before flipping the floorpan over to snap the forward tabs in their slots; it make take a few tries, and you may have to squeeze the forward seat mounts to get the tabs to line up with the slots while viewing from below. Step 14: Part 2.52 has a larger and smaller hole that will orient it correctly on the mounting pegs. The diagram does not show that grey flocked part 2.54 must be pressed into the rear seat back 2.53. Group 3 (engine!) Most parts are nicely pre-painted, although some black plastic parts will look better if painted. Remember all part numbers ending in "M" are metal and are located in the foam block that contains the body panels. Step 16: Be sure part 3.7M is oriented correctly and matches the contour of the engine block. Step 17: After starting the screws I had to press the engine block halves 3.8M and 3.11M together slightly with a vice to eliminate a small gap. However, the gap between the transmision and engine block is intentional, as a plastic part will slide between them in step 19. The mounting tabs and slots for parts 3.9, 3.10, 3.12, 3.13 are assymetrical and will orient them correctly so the flats on the cylinders will face each other. Step 20: parts 3.20L and 3.21R and stamped R and L, but are shown on the wrong sides in the instructions and will not fit if assembled as shown. Step 21: I had to add part 3.22 after mounting parts 3.20 & 3.21 to the engine because of limited clearance. Be sure the flanges on parts 3.21 & 3.22 are pressed completely into the matching recess in the black part between them and the engine. Fit the pushrod guides parts 3.24 into parts 3.23R & 3.25L before inserting the group into the engine block. Squish the ends slightly so they will stay aligned and in place if necessary. Part 3.29 is begging us to replace it with real wire. Step 24: Spark plug wires; refer back to page 16 to match correct lengths to parts #'s. Group 4 Body assembly was quick and clear in general. Step 35: Slide the thin metal ring onto the ridge at the bottom of part 4.3 before fastening to the interior door panel, and be sure the seatbelt buckle faces away from the door. Step 43: I had to unscrew and bend the arm of the fuel filler door several times to get a correct fit in the opening when closed. Group 5 (dash and moving body panels) Step 57: Part 5.43 was a loose fit so I squished the mounting pins slightly to get it to stay securely. I rotated the mounting arms of the rear bumper slightly to get a correct fit in the body. Step 58: Inserting metal pins into the door hinges right against the painted body made me nervous. I also had to bend both lower hinges slightly to get clearance for the hinge pins. Nylon jawed pliers were a life saver here to squeeze the hinge pins into the hinges. After mounting the doors they may not fit right, but the door opening will spread when the body is mounted to the chassis. Step 59: The dash was a tight fit because of interference at the sides from body assembly screws. Next time I may drill holes to allow more clearance. Step 64: The placement and ID of parts 5.68 & 5.69 is difficult, better to wait until after the body is mounted to the chassis. Step 67: When assembling the body to the chassis you may need to do some flexing and wiggling to get everything to line up at the correct mounting points. Start at the front with the car upside down and be sure the tops of the front suspension towers fit into the recesses in the wheel well. Then spread the body at the sills if needed as you work your way to the back. After mounting the body to the chassis I gently but firmly spread the upper body opening front to back by bracing against the windshield header and the rear of the car to create more space for the doors to close properly. You will see there is some natural flex in the bottom of the chassis when the doors are open. Step 69: I wrapped a thin strip of tape around the neck of the windshield washer reservoir 5.72 to achieve a secure fit in the mounting collar. Step 70: Windshield trim 5.78; notice the mounting pins angle downwards, and all four must be pressed in and down at the same time. The ends of the rear shelf 6.3 must be snapped firmly under tabs inside the body to get a correct fit. Windshield washer nozzle 6.33 is a very small part but shown deceptively large in the illustration. Group 6 (final assembly/convertible top) Steps 72-74: Be sure to refer to the photos on page 60 in addition to the parts diagram on page 57 to help clarify the assembly of the folding top mechanism. Step 76: It is a little fussy to get the reinforced holes in both layers of the cloth top to align with the "sandwich" of rear window plus interior and exterior trim pieces. Make sure each layer (outer cloth, rear window, inner cloth, inner trim piece) is fully seated onto the pins of exterior trim piece 6.26 before tightening each screw. Be careful your screwdriver does not slip and scratch the window! After the rear window is attached undo the velcro and reattach so the metal top mechanism is between the layers of the cloth top. Step 78: Be sure each piece 6.31 clicks fully into each hole in piece 6.29. Refer to the photo on the previous page 62 of the manual for clarification. Step 79: When attaching the rear of the top to the body, insert the black pegs on parts 6.17 from step 74 first. You will have to angle the top of these parts inward to insert the pegs. Step 80: Face the front of the model and brace it against your body while pulling the front edge of the convertible top to the windshield header, then press the pegs firmly into the holes to secure the top. The cloth top is bulkier than the real version, something that is more difficult to scale down than hard parts, so it is hard to fold without looking awkwardly high. My solution is to unmate the velcro holding the inner and outer layers together, fold and stack the top layer carefully, then fold or roll the inner layer into the middle before covering with the fabric boot. There was some interference when I first retracted the top so I had to pinpoint the problem joints and flex the metal bows gently to get them to stack symetrically. The elasticized fabric boot looked awkward until I researched photos of the car and saw that the real one often looked worse. Summary: I enjoyed this build and the quality of the parts. Total build time was quicker than expected because the car itself is simple (like comparing the Pocher Classic Fiat to the Alfa). Minor criticisms: Getting the doors to fit well was a little fussy, partly because the nicely scaled metal hinges are a little too flexible. I'll accept the trade off because the accurate hinges look so good. I wish there was a better latching system than just a friction fit against the body opening. The tires look a little wide to me but also look great on the car. I wish the bumpers were metal. I will suggest improvements to the manual for the next LEGRAND 1/8 kit, additional steps and clearer illustrations. Color photos as shown with the subscription instructions linked above would be best. Final Thoughts: The finished model looks great, and will look even better when I get a chance to polish and wax it as I do for every build. The convertible top looks good up or down, an improvement over the prototype photos. The metal mechanism works well and makes so much more sense than the plastic pieces Pocher provided in the Classic car kits.

Hi all, Today I actually managed to start my first model... the Tamiya 1966 VW Beetle. I was originally going to build this to be the same as the beetle I used to own however I believe it would be too difficult for a first model, I would have to change too much on it as mine was a ‘74 and therefore had different lights, bumpers etc. So I’ve decided to do it from the box (I may fit the opening rear windows I’ve seen on HighlightModelstudio.com). I’ve spent ages searching through the Hycote colours online to find one I like, I originally was looking at VW colours but got drawn to some Ford colours I like instead... I ordered Ford Green Jade Metallic originally, not realising it was actually out of stock so I’m still waiting for that to arrive, and in the meantime found Ford Sierra Beige and decided that suits the car much more and ordered and received that very quickly. I haven’t done loads to start, I have laid down 2 coats of primer (Optima grey plastic primer) and 1 coat of Hycote Ford Sierra Beige Quite happy with the colour and how it’s looking so far... for a first attempt. comments and criticism please people.

This may or may not be how the beaches of So Cal could have looked if the combined forces of the U.S and Great Britain had not prevailed in WWII. Nice model to build with the addition of a scratch built roof rack, machine gun barrel exhaust pipes and after market nose art decals (slightly doctored). Finally got hold of some 1/24 scale sun loungers! Thanks for looking, regards Siffo.

Something a little different from me - I'm doing a pair of Thunderbolt models of the same a/c, one in USAAF colours, the other German, as shown on the sheet below. I've had this particular sheet from Cutting Edge since my UK visit in 2007 (!!), and haven't managed to do anything with it - this GB is a good place to start, I think. To that end, I have 3 Academy P-47D kits, 2 of which will be used for this GB as a joint build - appropriate, seeing as they will be representing the aircraft named 'Beetle', as flown (and lost) by 2nd Lt William Roach, 358th FS, 355th FG, 8th AF both while it was in his charge and then as it was operated by the Germans, in the guise of 2./VVB OKL (aka Wanderzirkus Rosarius) at Wunstorf, July '44. The 3rd P-47 will at some point in the future fill the role of the other captured a/c on this sheet. Also on the sheet are a Mosquito and a couple of P-51s, which may be my entries in the upcoming STGBs for those types - we'll see. Obligatory box/sprue shots to start Those of you with a keen eye may notice the missing bits - bombs, drop tanks, and one of the props. They were cut out and dispatched to a fellow BMer at some point last year when he put out a call for P-47 things. I knew I wouldn't need them for these builds, so off they went. I hope they were useful. The kits are apparently not perfect, but they look like P-47s, which is close enough for me. A major attraction is that they're pretty simple kits, which should allow me to get them done in the allotted time span - like many of us, I find that I have signed up for rather too many GBs this year (it was a vintage crop, so whaddaryagunnado?) Before I start these, I plan to finish my Gnat for the Made in GB GB, then I'll be right into these. For thems as might be interested, Lt. Roach was on only his 3rd mission when it all went pear-shaped. On November 7, 1943, escorting B-17's of the 8th Air Force's 1st and 3rd Air Divisions, he became disoriented in poor weather, and with his fuel running low (and after watching the squadron leader crash land), he began looking for an airfield for an emergency landing. Lt. Roach spotted a runway and landed, then followed a vehicle to a parking place and shut down. He then realised that the people surrounding the plane were Germans - must have been a little bit sad-making for the poor chap. Lt. Roach had inadvertently provided the Luftwaffe with its first intact P-47D-2-RA, and spent the remainder of the war at Stalag Luft I. He survived the war, rejoined the USAF and died in 2010 at the age of 88. So although it's a bit of a sad story, it's a funny and sort of good one too. (Thanks to Warbirds Resource Group for the potted history.)

Type 82E German Staff Car 1:35 Revell The Type 82E is best known as the Volkswagen Beetle, the people's car designed by Ferdinand Porsche for the Nazi ideal of a mobile workforce. It was designed for cheapness of manufacturer, to be robust, and to be easily maintained by users, running an air-cooled engine that gave it a distinctive sound that is still recognisable today. Most people probably don't make the link between the hippy-era Beetle and the German Staff car, but there it is. Millions were made over the years, and after production finished in Europe the equipment and toolings were transported to Mexico where they continued to be made for some years. The Kit This is a re-release of a re-release of a re-tooling of a CMK kit from the late 90s, the original of which had a separate roof panel and a few other differences. This latest version has an integral roof panel, with a little nipple in the centre that you'll need to sand off before painting. The kit arrives in one of Revell's new-style boxes with the Level 4 logo giving a guide to the skills needed, and inside is just one sprue of medium grey styrene, plus a bodyshell part placed on the lower body for safety. A clear sprue contains all the windows and lights, while the large instruction booklet is printed in colour in their new style. Hiding in the irritating (but necessary) Health & Safety page are the decals that could easily be thrown away if you regularly chuck these things out, which Revell might do well to take heed of. There are no modern fripperies such as rubberised tyres, but you do get a choice of either the traditional domed hub-cap type, or a 5-stud steel rim, which share a common inner hub that attach to either end of the full-width front axle, or the split rear axles. These are placed under the lower body, and the front axle is trapped in place by an insert. The bumper and over-riders attach to their mounting points, and the clear front and rear light clusters are installed, with either shrouded or unshrouded headlights at your choice. Inside there is a duck-boarded floor, and you add the rear load area, plus the instrument panel and pedal box in between the back of the front fenders. The front seats are padded, and have the pattern moulded in, with some ejector-pin marks on the rear, and C-shaped runners holding them off the floor. The rear seats are a single bench, and fit just forward of the rear arches, with a transmission tunnel containing the gear lever and hand brake (remember those?) running fore to aft. Turning to the bodyshell, the roof nipple will need removing first, after which you can add the door cards and rear-view mirror. The head lining is just the inside of the roof, although I'm not 100% sure whether that's accurate, it will need a little clean-up at the front to make it presentable. With the interior complete and painted, the windows are then added, which are all individual panels that are fitted from the outside, so take care to test-fit and fettle where necessary before resorting to glue. The bodyshell is then glued to the lower, and fits very well, so shouldn't need any filler at all. You'll probably leave the door handles, bonnet/hood handle and windscreen wipers off until after main painting. Markings Surprisingly there are three markings options in the box, differing in terms of number plates and colour schemes, with a number of common stencils in white or black. From the box you can build one of the following: German Army 1943-5 WH-49760 – sand/green wavy camo & domed hubcaps. German Army 1943-5 WH-1123 458 – Panzer grey & steel rims. German Army 1943-5 WH-1400 382 – Sand & steel rims. Decals aren't Cartograf, but are still printed in Italy, with good register, colour density and sharpness. The sheet includes an instrument dial for the driver's panel, which is a nice touch. Conclusion An ageing but still useful little kit that would benefit from some nicer wheels to spruce it up. Adding a little weighting by sanding the bottoms of the tyres flat will definitely help however. Recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit

Another kit finished this year... i like the final result..

Hi Everyone, Here is my 2nd completed project of 2015. This is Revell's 1:24 scale Volkswagen Beetle New Style. This is an almost exact replica of my own car. The colour is very similar and as the model was made in Germany, the model is left hand drive rather than the UKs right hand drive. The kit is painted in Tamiya X-4 blue and black paint. Anyway here are the photos. Thanks as always for looking. Cheers, Rick

Hi Everyone, Here is another of my early builds for 2015. A Revell 1:24 scale New Style Volkswagen Beetle, which was another of my purchases from LSA Models. This is something of a personal project for me as this is the first and only car I have owned since passing my driving test, I will therefore be painting it blue as that is the colour of the car I have. I would also like to create a custom number plate decal, but not sure how to do that. Anyway here are the photos of the box and sprues. Update as soon as I get to work on this kit. Rick

Volkswagen Beetle (aircooled)