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Found 2 results

  1. Hello fellow modelers, let me introduce you myself. My name is Thanos, I am a mechanics student from Athens, Greece. One of my passions are airplanes. I spend the most of my day in home, due to the corona virus outbreak. So, I started scrolling in YouTube and I found lots of aircraft modeling videos. I didn’t waste any time and I bought my first kits, (2 Eduard Spitfires (1/72) and a Kinetic F 16 Block 52+ HAF (1/48), which are actually my favorite aircrafts), paints and an H&S Ultra 2 in 1 airbrush. I had almost no experience in scale modeling (only a Revell A320 and a Revell Leopard 2A6, almost 5 years ago), but I have a lot of experience in general manufacturing, as I used to spend the most of my day in my university’s laboratories, prior to virus outbreak. I made this thread in order to share some photos of the Kinetic’s F 16 and also to ask about advices from people who have built this kit. For the Spitfires I will make another thread. I am using reference photos from a book called "Vipers under the skin". The most colours I am using are AK's 3rd gen acrylics, I am also using some TAMIYA acrylics and Humbrol Enamels. I started this thread a little bit late, but I have a lot work to do in my project. I started with the cockpit, which have nice details but I found that some swithes are wrong. I ve used AK's 3rd gen acrylics for as base colors (Intense black as priming and then I sprayed 80% sky gray + 20% england grey as base color). For the details I also used some AKs 3rd gen, some TAMIYA acrylics and Humbrol Enamels. I used 0.2mm Nozzle, cause my H&S Ultra came with 0.2mm aircap as an 0.4mm aircap (a known issue to them for the lattest batches, but I have received the replacement part). For detailing I used DaVinci NOVA 10/0 and Winsor and Newton 111 3/0 synthetic brushes. Then the inlet followed, I made some fitting testing und I painted it inside. I used white with very little sky gray, also I used Mr.Surfacer 1200 in order to fill some gaps. After the Inlet I started paintig the exhaust. As you can see in the pictures I tried to fill some flaws caused by the mould. At first I painted with AK's 3rd gen Intense White mixed with only a little of Sky Grey. Then I sprayed some smoke lines (following my referense pictures and my experience with the engine) with Intense Black, in the end I further weathered it with a mix (using again the refernce pictures) of Winsor & Newton Wintor Ivory Black and Abteilung Dark Rust oil paints (I used a No 8 Synthetic Flat Brush). I didn't thin the mix prior to the application (as this oils have relatively low viscosity), but I only used AK's odorless enamel thinner to remove the excess paint. I used the same processes for the afterburner chamber and the exhaust nozzle connector but I tried to make a heavier weathering, using two tones of the weathering mix (a blacker and a browner one). For the inside part of the exhaust nozzle I used a mix of White and Medium Grey mix, trying to replicate the ceramic material. And I weathered it using different tones of the weathering mixture. The most difficult part was the exterior painting. As a base I painted it black and then with natural steel metalic color. I made a mix using black and medium grey to paint the smoke and then I tried to shade every fin using the previous weathering mix (Ivory Black and Dark rust). For the wheel bay I used AK's Intense white and Intense Black for pre shading, AK Panelliner for grey camo and Winsor & Newton Wintor Ivory Black oil paint for weathering. The dry fittings continue..... But today I really made big progress, I finished weathering on wheel bays and finally I glued the inlet and the main wheel bay with the fuselage. I made some dry fitting, so I managed to have a good result. The inlet was a little bit tricky and needed a lot of sanding and putty, but in the end the result was satisfying. Tomorrow I am planning to glue the three fuselage parts. I have also finished the assembly of the weapons and the drop off tanks. I use as a reference picture of a F 16D Block52+, so I am planning to use 2 370 gallon tanks, 2 Iris Ts, 2 120 AMRAAMs and 2 AGM 88 HARMs, allong with the CFTs and LANTIRN targeting and naviagation pods. I know that it looks overweathered, but I think that the result is very close with the reference pictures. HAF's F 16 are really weathered, due to their use.
  2. G'day folks. While the Trumpeter Seahawk is waiting for a round in the paint booth, I've been working in the venerable 1/48 Hasegawa F-16. It will be a Block 52 jet but flown by neither the USAF, European or Middle Eastern operators. I'm waiting for a few Eduard sets for it but in the mean time I've got some of the basics out of the way including that feral seam along the intake. The cockpit will be closed up so I've opted for the kit plastic with a neat paint job. Gunze tyre black with details picked out in Vallejo paints and an AK wash thrown around for a bit of grime. I've added a few buttons on the control stick which I've yet to paint up. One I get a bit of dry brushing onto them they should pop out. The Hasegawa block 52 kits don't have the NPRV panel moulded into the upper fuselage halves. The block 52 jets have a fuel panel shaped like an 'F' with the middle horizontal missing. I've filled the kit panel with sprue glue and I'll use the Tamiya kit panel to make a template to scribe the panel. I can use the template to scribe the panel on any other kits that don't have the panel. The NPRV itself is a small oval panel that sits on the underside of the 'F' panel. I've opted to use the Aires Block 52 exhausts which unfortunately means some belt sanding is required around the tail end. I presented up the forward part of the exhaust and decided it best to remove material from the underside of the fuselage as it will be least visible. I've highlighted the amount needed to be removed with a black sharpie so I can gauge how much has been taken away. SUPER DAD needs to do his pushups, figuratively speaking... I chose the underside as it won't be seen while the model is on its legs. Its also and easier shape to sand rather than around the reverse curve of the fin base. I'm close to the amount I need to take away here so I'll sway to the finer grades of sanding sticks to start and smooth out the plastic. Here I've hit it with a pretty coarse sanding stick. Although it appears there's still a bit of material to remove the, exhaust panel is taped in position and sits slightly away from the kit plastic which gives the appearance of more plastic that needs to be removed. The intake lip seam on the Hasegawa kits is shocking. I've spent about two hours getting it to this stage. First was to assemble the parts and then stick it in a vice to get a good glue bond around the seam. Next was to apply several rounds of sprue glue over a few evenings to build up the plastic. I made sure this had hardened after a few days. Then it was out with the files, sanding sticks and anything else that I could shove up its gullet. This is the result with some Alclad primer applied. There's still some work to do but it's a lot better than when I started. I've concentrated on the lower seam is it will be most visible when the kits is on its wheels. The coarse finish is due to the Alclad filling primer. I'll smooth that all out one the final shaping is done. Roll call!!! This may give some folks a hint to the operator...actually I probably wont.It's not Eurpopean, it's not USAF and it's not Middle Eastern. AIM-120 and AIM9 will also feature in the final load out as well as a CL tank. I'll be along again over the weekend (hopefully) with some more progress, this time with some Eduard etch if it fronts up in time. Thanks Mick.
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