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Found 42 results

  1. ShinMaywa US-2 kit - ref.Aoshima is to release in July 2016 a 1/144th - ref.1 Sources: http://www.aoshima-bk.co.jp/product/4905083011843/ http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?showtopic=287695&view=findpost&p=2746837 Box art Test shot V.P.
  2. Aoshima is working on a 1/144th Kawasaki C-2 kit - ref. Source: https://hobby.dengeki.com/event/638007/ Source: https://tieba.baidu.com/p/5896512964 V.P.
  3. It seems like ages since I did a Thunderbirds model - well it was October last year but it SEEMS a long time ago - so I decided to raid the stash and pull out a kit I've had for quite a few years and see what could be done with it! My choice this time was the Aoshima Recovery Vehicle If you look very closely you'll see the box boasts a 2 channel remove control option!! Whoo hoo, Vroom Vroom! Okay lets not get too excited, the 2 channels allow for forward and reverse plus the 'firing' and winching in of the magnetic grapples!! Sounds awesome? Hmmm.... Here are the contents of the box: You'll see it comes with 2 electric motors plus a stack of other bits alongside the plastic. It should be noted that this kit uses the same technique as the Aoshima Mole with 2 rubber bands with the tracks glued into mating holes in the rubber. It works very well on the Mole kit and keeps the tracks nice and flexible. On the subject of the Mole, that kit ALSO claims to be 1:72 and while the tractor bodies of both of these are the same size, the Mole is supposed to be a much larger machine. On the Recovery Vehicle one you can see the windscreen so can imagine the size of the driver. What is missing in the above photo (because I forgot to take a sprue shot until I'd already started building doh!) is the aforementioned '2 Channel Remove Control' controller. This comes as part of the kit and is quite easy to assemble as it includes a prefabricated circuit beard with wires already soldered on. It accepts 4 AA batteries and has 2 constrol sticks that simply move forward and back. I've tested it and it all works fine. My plan it to connect this to the model via a 4-pin plug and socket on the underside so the controller can be detached when I want to display the static model and then plugged in to play with.. .er I mean to display the motorised action... ahem! The instructions are the usual Aoshima mix of Japanese and English, French and German These pages show you the construction of the controller Approaching Danger Zone...
  4. This is supposed to be the 'Remote Control' verision of this kit which was supposed to let you drive it back and forward but not turn and fire the magnetic grapples and rewind them. However the gearing never worked properly and I gave up because after all this isn't a toy! (Honest guv I mean it!!!) You can see the WIP here Here are the completed photos... Its a good addition to my collection of Thunderbirds pod vehicles, joining The Mole, Firefly and of course Thunderbird 4
  5. Good evening everyone. A bit of long shot I know but does anybody know where I could obtain a couple of motors which would fit the Mole and Recovery Vehicle kits please? Thanks in advance.
  6. In a rush of spontaneity my nearest & dearest decided to add to my stash by purchasing an Aoshima fire engine......to 1/72 scale which makes it just 5.5” long! Now this isn’t something I’d normally go for, especially at this small scale, but decided it was a challenge I’d be happy tackling so set about the build. In true Aoshima style the fit of parts and quality of moulding was pretty spot on so construction wasn’t an issue, but the painting was another story. I won’t go into details, but I had a few issues that really tested my patience! The model represents a fire ladder truck from Otsu in Japan and if required can be built with tilting (detailed) cab, rotating table, extending ladder and extending stabilisers. Due to the fragility of the ladder construction I elected to leave it retracted as it’s purely a static display model, but all other features are working. The only modifications I’ve made is to drill out the centre of the (grey) roof mounted megaphone and install a central cone (a solid grey blob didn’t quite look right), and the 4 door mirrors had their back shells built up with acrylic putty to simulate the shape of the full size. Tamiya and Mr. Hobby paints were used with a Molotow chrome pen used for details like the front bumpers, mirror glass, hydraulic pistons and some cabin details. I simply decanted the chrome liquid and applied it with a fine brush. Luckily most fire engines are kept extremely clean so very little weathering was required. Anyhoo, please have a gander as it’s something a little different to the norm.
  7. Not usually my thing to 'Pimp' a street car, but just couldn't help m'self... Aoshima kit, not a straightforward build but pretty good. Tamiya TS44 Light Gunmetal overall, A Pillars, skirts & air dams all Tamiya enamel (standard) Gunmetal. Decals plucked from an unsuspecting Revell Mitsubishi Eclipse. Wheels are after-market Aoshima's - Rays 19" GT-C's. As ever thanks for taking the time to look, all comments, abuse and questions are welcome. Next, something very, very small. Ian.
  8. First Aoshima kit, and loved it ! - no hassle, just a wee bit of flash in the window openings. This is the Vertex boxing which means the deep skirts and front & rear dams are pre-molded on to the body so you can go straight to clean-up & prime with no delays. Colour is two coats of Tamiya TS24 Purple followed by two coats each of TS65 Pearl Clear and TS13 Clear. All cut & polished with Tamiya three-part compounds. Wheels & Tyres are Aoshima too, but after-market 18" WedSport SA70's which I de-chromed and re-painted. Other than that what you see here is what came in the box. Very quick build and looks great on my JDM shelf. Please feel free to make any comment, ask any questions or hurl any criticism. AFN Ian.
  9. For my next build I shall be building the new Aoshima Thunderbird 3 kit that arrived on my doorstep a couple of weeks ago. This is intended to display on the IPMS Farnborough display at Telford in November. First the box art: Now the contents: So construction is pretty simple for most of it apart from the middle section with the fins. Here I've painted them up while they are still on the sprues since the sprue gates on the side that will rest against the body. I've used Tamiya Metallic Grey: I've put together the 3 engine pods and attached them to the lower body. There are seperate white pieces for the tops and bottoms of the engines. These were mouled with depressions to represent the retros and exhausts, so these got drilled out. There are some quite bad moulding seams on some of the parts, but the plastic is that brittle but solid plastic common in Aoshima and Imai kits, so these sand out very well and the surface polishes up without too much hassle. As usual the camera flash has overexposed things. You can see that I've drilled out the base of the engines as well as I have had some thoughts about how to pose this On the right you can see the three docking rings that are supplied with the kit. One has thin rings, a second has a thing ring with tow thinner rings on either side and the third had boxes along the circumference like this: As you can see here, you can see the bad joint around the middle and my first attempt at sorting it out, but I don't think its going to work. This is just about the worst part of the kit. I think the only other things I could do here would be to cut some thin plastic card squares, however to be honest I'm not sure I can be bothered! in the background you can see one of the other docking rings which I think II'll use instead. Here are the legs ready for priming: The kit comes with a loat of "fillets" that fit into the slots int he legs and are moulded in dark blue plastic, these will be sprayed Tamiya Nato Black before fitting. This is the base that comes with the kit: which is okay I guess but I have had a different idea which will involved a ring-shaped construction and some more cotton wool Finally here is the decal sheet: The tall blue "U" shaped decals are intended to wrap around the base of each fin in the middle of the body. The Yellow chevrons are intended for the base of each fin which is a different colour. I think I might use them since the thought of masking all 18 fins creeps me out So next I need to get hold of some Peugeot Seville paint from Halfords...
  10. Here is my finished 1/24 Delorean from the Back to the Future movie Started this one back in April 2018 and after much detailing too make it look more realistic to the movie, I finally finish this month (September 2018). Hope you all like this one, my first finished build for many many years Feel free to check out the construction photos of this build over on my Facebook page: Scalemodel Madness
  11. Presented at the 55th All Japan Model Hobby Show (http://hobbyshow.co.jp/index.html), the future Aoshima's 1/72nd Kawasaki OH-1 Ninja kit - ref.13 Source: http://happy.ap.teacup.com/runchicken_s/ Source: https://www.facebook.com/519867854709332/photos/a.1148946028468175.1073741868.519867854709332/1148947795134665/?type=3&theater Bad news for the recent Anigrand OH-1 resin kit: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234978142-172-kawasaki-oh-1-ninja-resin-kit-by-anigrand-released/ V.P.
  12. Aoshima is to re-release its Ta.152 kit in September 2018, 1/72nd Focke Wulf Ta.152H-0 as Super Detail - ref. SP? Sources: http://www.aoshima-bk.co.jp/en/product/4905083056455/ https://www.facebook.com/Aoshima.Bunka.Kyozai.Co.Ltd.English/posts/526148174479851?__xts__[0]=68.ARC3UvmoSCezWRReafs6JJitqTzYNjJMwMLfbmR-ete6OzSk-51VkABHAZccTu6RyQAQLSslRJ5jDgaLWeZUg7bPE6m9bO2kSSFb2SqUDV7S0UIiiBGktVbQjboQk_o2fkq91HBIEidI7vLkdqZLFypcyICNjBcjEuMerfqws5unqn_zSzeg&__tn__=-R V.P.
  13. Hi All, Yet another shelf sitter that has been resurrected... I have had this for more than 30 years, I'm sure. I happened to be in our local Antics store, and saw the self-same kit in a new boxing, but definitely the same kit... Anyway, here we are so far... Box top: Not a bad looking bike for it's day. The engine: This was all satin-chromed by Aoshima and looked a bit 'toy-like'. So, I stripped it using caustic soda, primed it with my home-brew grey primer before painting it with Tamiya XF16. It didn't come out too bad, looks a lot more like aluminium now. There is a little breather pipe on the back of the engine, at least that's what I think it is. However, it had gone AWOL. so I had to fabricate a replacement with 3/32nd evergreen styrene tube with a 3/64th rod glued into the end to locate it into the cylinder block. After a bit of aluminium, it looked the part. It looks a bit flat at the moment, but I'll give a bit of a wash to bring out the details. Probably a mix of black and brown enamels, just to pop out the detail... This where we are at the present. The cylinder head and spark-plugs have been added, and then a bespoke ignition lead for each plug. There was nothing in the instructions about these, so I fabricated and CA'd them to the pins on the plugs. More soon. Thanks for looking, Alan.
  14. Aoshima have publically acknowledged that they're doing the Exeter: LINK. Early shots: Either the hull's a bit bendy, or the surface it's sitting on isn't flat! Looks not too bad anyway - it can certainly gives a better basis than the old and difficult to find Matchbox kit. Trumpeter have announced that they're going to do both the Exeter and the York in 1/350, so this pre-empts any possible 1/700 kit from them. Also fits another trait for many of the non-Japanese subjects in the waterline range - sunk by the IJN! Mike.
  15. Morning everyone made a start on this kit yesterday so I though I'd make a thread to document my build. Now I'm far from s great modeller so please don't expect Roy or Shaun levels of modelling here lol but I do enjoy it and does help me relax So on to the build, well it's the Aoshima lambo. First time I have picked up a kit from this maker and so far I have to say it's well up there with Tamiya in terms of fit and quality, so much so I have the F1 gtr ready to be ordered on payday lol. (Or maybe two ) I won't bore you all with the sprue shots but you certainly get alot in the box, and I'm going for something slighty different with the paint scheme, yup that is Roothmans blue you can see there...... more on this in a later post. Starting with the body, here you can see I've installed the side vents and the side skirts, although left the grill off the back of the vent, this should allow for easier painting and less masking (I hate masking!) From here the front bumper was cleaned up, no glued in place yet, simply placed From here the rear portion has received some work, the rear wing was built up and the first piece of photo etch applied to the rear And finally So after a little bit of work I have the start of an SV starting to take shape. Next up is adding the final details to the body and then into the paint shop. Note the bumpers and wing haven't been glued yet, these can come together after painting. But I'm certainly enjoying this one so far, hopefully have some more progress this week on the model, but I think it's safe to say my mojo is well and truly back up and firing All the best Matt
  16. I just can't help myself, its an addiction I tell you! So stuck in the house unable to use the shed to paint I looked through the stash to find something that would be fun to build. Needless to say, this appeared in my search like a hypersonic vision from the future: Obligatory Sprue Shot: Instructions: I've had this kit for a few months, but during Telford, our esteemed Chairman, Eric came back tot he stand triumphantly carrying a base card depicting London Airport. The wheels turned and an image came to mind, so on the Sunday I collared him into showing me where he bought it - thanks Eric! This is what he had found: Superb - can you guess what I'm going to so with it? Anyway, back to the model. Its pretty straightforward construction-wise, moulded is silver/grey plastic with no flash and only a few visible injector pin marks which are easily filled. The basic components are easy to assemble: Note the main fuselage hasn't been joined together as there is a cunning mechanism to allow the wings to retract or extend in sync. To this end you attach two sets of pivot brackets and a central separator within the main fuselage: The wings fit in thus: So taping the upper part of the fuselage on and the rear section you get this: Mmmmmm, looking good! So there is a vertical thruster jet nozzle you can attach to the bottom and this was a perfect fit for a 5mm hole to take an acrylic rod and brass sleeve: This needed a little bit of fettling with the central partition and then the brass sleeve got fixed in using some araldite: So returning to the base, I used an old wooden plaque that previously held a large ornate coat hook and cut a portion of the London Airport base to size for it: with a suitably drilled hole, off centre and angled, I can do this: or even better this: Now I've left myself in a quandry, I'm almost ready to start painting the main components. I want to do it Alcad Airframe aluminium but that means I have to start visiting the shed again This may mean I'll have to start to build something else... Maybe I should pluck up my courage and make a go at this one... then again maybe the CY fumes will play havoc with my cough...
  17. Hi everyone, here's my latest completion for 2016, Aoshima's Kiyokawa Maru in 1/700. From Wikipedia: Kiyokawa Maru's Tabular-Record-Of-Movement from combinedfleet.com: LINK. The model is built strictly Out-Of-the-Box and painted using a mix of Humbrol, Xtracolor and Sovereign Colourcoats enamels. The airgroup consists of four Mitsubishi F1M "Pete" and two Aichi E13A "Jake" seaplanes, one of which has it's wings folded. Comments feedback welcome! Mike.
  18. Kora Models has just released a 1/72nd Kawanishi N1K1-Ja Shiden Type II Kó kits - ref.72016 - Kawanishi N1K1-Ja Shiden Type II Kó (First Operation) Aoshima kit with resin replacement cowling and weels and new decals Source: https://www.lfmodels.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=2348&zenid=56lk5f17ssm86s4aj36k7tvfi2 Box art - ref.72017 - Kawanishi N1K1-Ja Shiden Type II Kó Aoshima kit with resin replacement Interior and weels, p/e parts and new decals Source: https://www.lfmodels.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_5_73&products_id=2349&zenid=56lk5f17ssm86s4aj36k7tvfi2 Box art V.P.
  19. Hi everyone, This is my latest completion for the year - Aoshima's 1/72 Kawasaki Ki-61-II "Tony" bubble top. The kit is strictly OOB and has been painted using Sovereign Colourcoats ACJ22 - IJAAF #7 Ohryoku nana go shoku for the uppersurfaces, wheel wells, main undercarriage doors and interior, ACJ19 - ID Yellow for the wing markings, ACJ23 - Propeller Brown for the prop blades and Humbrol Metalcote 27002 Polished Aluminium on the underside. It's all sealed in using a Humbrol Enamel Satin spray which was the only tricky part as I had issues with the aerosol cans clogging after a few seconds of use..... The model has also been given some light weathering. All in all this is a very nice little kit of an attractive aircraft - IIRC Nick Millman referred to the type as the "Japanese Mustang". I have to give thanks to Nick and others for their advice and help when I enquired in THIS thread earlier in the year - thanks guys! Now for the pics: As always, comments and criticism are welcome! Mike.
  20. I asked the question in the Vehicle discussion forum, so decided to bite the bullet, and have a go at building a desktop café racer. I am using the Aoshima ZII kit, more specifically the quite ridiculously named "The Z II of Legend, Shonan Lover's", and despite some dubious box art, the kit looks great value. There are enough spare parts to make several different versions, from the original kit with 70's styling (4 into 4 exhaust) to the one as depicted on the box art http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235008781-what-carbike-kits-have-you-recently-bought-2/&do=findComment&comment=2571180. First time making a kit from Aoshima and it looks OK so far, the fit has been good on the engine, but I am surprised by the flash, don't expect that from a Japanese kit. Also, no chrome anywhere, so that has to be a bonus. So to keep the principals of the café racer this is the plan: 1. Remove any un-necessary brackets from the frame. Foot rests will be rear-sets, and who needs a pillion? 2. Mono shock conversion to clean the rear of the bike up with a . 3. Drop front forks in the triple clamps. 4. Anti social exhaust 5. OTT paint - I am looking at Chrysler Mango Tango with black centre panel and white pinstripes! (Q. Is the only way to buy Gravity paints in the UK is through their website and it is then delivered from Spain?) So I have built the engine, as this is remaining mostly standard, and this will be painted semi-gloss black, carbs will have bell mouths (again provided in the kit, but need some work) and that will be all. The bulk of the work will be on the forks, swing arm, a respoke of the wheels and an MFH chain kit (tread carefully young Padawan). Probably the area that is going to be the hardest will be the seat, mostly as I have not worked out what I am doing with this at the minute, but as time goes on I am sure a plan will form. While this is being built I will endeavour to grow a beard, buy some vintage clothing and hang out at trendy coffee shops drinking Ristretto's out of reclaimed lace makers thimbles while clutching a vinyl record that I can't play as my mum don't like loud music! Sorry went off topic. Cheers Tony
  21. Hello Few pictures of my newest project. Enjoy. Mike
  22. Aoshima is to release in April 2016 two 1/72nd Kawasaki Ki-61 Hien "Tony" kits. Sources: http://www.aoshima-bk.co.jp/product/?s=&when1-year=2016&when1-day=04&when1-daynum=01&when2-year=2016&when2-day=04&when2-daynum=30 https://www.facebook.com/Aoshima.Bunka.Kyozai.Co.Ltd - ref.14 - "razorback" - 「三式戦II型飛燕角型風防」 -http://www.aoshima-bk.co.jp/product/4905083022290/ - ref.15 - "bubbletop" - 「三式戦II型飛燕涙滴風防」 - http://www.aoshima-bk.co.jp/product/4905083022467/ V.P.
  23. Ki-61-II Kai Fastback & Teardrop Masks 1:72 Eduard - For Aoshima kits Here Eduard bring us two sets of masks for both versions of the Aoshima kit. Fastback Teardrop Conclusion A badly painted canopy can ruin the look of a good model and these masks should help prevent this. Recommended. Review samples courtesy of
  24. I've put the Lotus 88 on hold while I wait for some carbon decals to come onto the market, and have decided to try and finish two kits before starting another or continuing with the 88. Here are a few shots of the almost-complete Aoshima McLaren F1 GTR long tail. I had originally planned to do this as the Fina Le Mans car but inspired by Homer's pre-season build I went for the plain orange color scheme using Gravity Paints' McLaren Orange. Clear coat was Tamiya as my Gravity Clear coat thinner leaked from the bottle so I only had 2/3 of the mixture. Just a few finishing touches to do - fasteners, exhaust tips, tow points. I dropped one of the door locks on the floor and it got taken by the carpet monster. About the size of a pin head. :-( Just taking advantage of the winter sun before the rain arrives. (Yes, it's horrible here in the Southern Hemisphere!) Not bad for iPhone pics The other kit I want to finish is a Honda RC166 racer from the '60s. A lovely kit. I really enjoyed building the McLaren and there's a lot I could have done better, but it's turned out fairly well.
  25. I bought this kit last year however looking at the exhaust downpipes, the way they were attached to the sprue gate it was obvious that the chrome finish would be ruined. So I decided to wait until I could get hold of some Alclad chrome. I have never used Alclad before and so I had to experiment a few times to get a decent finish, also the petrol cap had been plated with a silver aluminium type finish instead of chrome, so I had to redo that with Alclad as well and also the rear grab rail. The wheels had chrome rims which were ok but also had the spokes chromed which was wrong for the look of the model as they should be zinc plated so I brushed painted Stynylrez black primer over the spokes followed with some Vallejo metallic semi matte aluminium to give the effect of zinc spokes. Also the box art showed a real bike not any images of the model, I knew the model would not look as realistic unless I super detailed it. I used a 2K clear lacquer over the paint work, the paint is actually mixed by myself from a match that I sprayed a few years ago on a Z1A which was very similar. The tail decal went on ok however the tank decal required cutting to conform to the shape of the tank. I was not happy with this so I did put the decals on but they wrinkled a little so I 2K clear coated them then flatted the tank and resprayed the colours on with my airbrush using Tamiya 2mm curved masking tape which was perfect for this job. I was just finishing the build when I had major problems fitting the headlight shell and the front mudguard, basically both seemed a little too wide for the forks. Then I found that the headlamp bottom bracket that clamps around the forks just started to brake as well as the fork tubes broke so I had a major rebuild to perform but I got there in the end. Also the center stand broke so I left it on the side stand. It's a great kit but the plastic is a bit brittle.
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