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Found 66 results

  1. Hi guys! I've recently joined the airbrush club! But I do have an awful lot of hataka blue line and vallejo model color paints, and I figure rather than replacing them I'd use them! Just wondering if anyone has experience using these paints in an airbrush and how they thinned them for use? Thanks guys!
  2. Hey, Please excuse this simple question but I'll have to ask When painting airliners, would you say the glossy white is the better approach or a matt white (like a normal white primer) followed by a gloss coat? I would think, a glossy coat would make the paintwork look more uniform but I might be missing something here. Also, I see many of you swear by spray cans when it comes to painting airliners but are there any good airbrush paints out-there for white, grey and the like? Many thanks! Cristian
  3. Hi there, I am a relative newbie who is (still) struggling with getting to grips with my H&S Evolution airbrush. I build cars and bikes and only shoot water-based acrylics due to my working environment. However, after much advice from numerous sources, experimentation and sanding (!), I am still experiencing the same issues as when I started. Does anyone know of any modelling airbrush courses available (once this lockdown is over!)? I am based in Surrey and have found one offered by Airbrush.com, based in West Sussex. This sounds ideal - but I wondered if anyone knew of any others? Any advice greatly received, thanks.
  4. Hi all. So I got a new airbrush, a relatively cheap 0.2mm one from Scalemodelshop. I wanted to use it to apply the camouflage to a 1/72 tank. However, despite having somewhat cracked a thinning ratio for Real Color paint (basically top up the bottle with thinner), it seems some of their colours still aren't thin enough. When I tried to spray, it speckled like crazy, almost like Tamiya White normally does. But when I thinned further, it retained the speckling but was more prone to flooding. I tried adjusting the screw like I used to on another airbrush to apply some post shading or highlighting with Tamiya colours, but I can't seem to get the knack for it. I really wonder how people do those crazy thin lines on the German aircraft night camo. No matter which why I approach the paint, its either too thick or too thin. No apparent middle ground. I still wasn't able to find the exact required thinning ratio of Real Color either, other than a suggestion of 2:1 paint to thinner. Any pointers would be appreciated. I keep looking forward to painting, but its starting to get laborious at times Gaz
  5. Photo of cracked nozzle Hi I've had my airbrush (sparmax SP-35) for about 2 months now and today, it started blowing bubbles in the cup. On closer inspection, I could see a crack on the nozzle. I was wondering how this could of happened and how to prevent it happening again. I haven't dropped the airbrush or removed the nozzle and clean it thoroughly after every use.
  6. Hi all. Merry Christmas/Happy Holidays I got a new airbrush for Christmas, a double-action model with an adjusting screw beneath the paint cup. I'm curious as to what this screw does since none of my previous models have one and I couldn't quite seem to isolate the function through Google searching. Much appreciate for any direction in advance Cheers Gaz
  7. can you age a 2 way flow adapter for airbrushes? and would it be possible to run 2 airbrushes off 1 compressor if the above mentioned does exist? (not both at the same time may i add) MT in advance
  8. Jetblast

    About us;

    www.air-craft.net is the website of Air Tech Equipment Ltd - We are an UK based online retailer specialising in airbrushing equipment, spares & accessories along with a selection of modelling related paint, tools, masking, abrasives, accessories & what not. Our website shows live stock levels & we do not support back ordering, so with the exception of the very occasional stock level errors, if it's indicated as in stock, it is physically in stock. We ship around the globe, using Royal Mail & Parcelforce in the UK, Royal Mail Airmail & Parcelforce / GLS in Europe & Royal Mail Airmail, TNT & UPS for orders beyond Europe, orders generally ship the same or next working day. We can accept PayPal, credit card or bank transfer as payment methods & for added security our website is HTTPS throughout. We are direct importers or official resellers for all the products we sell, are familiar with the technical aspects of all equipment listed & have a significant range of spares to support said equipment. We are happy to advise on any airbrush equipment related enquiries, but I'm afraid we don't have a team of receptionist & sometimes struggle to get to the phone during busier periods - If you don't get a reply & prefer not to leave a message you can email us on sales@air-craft.net & we will respond as soon as we can. Harder & Steenbeck - airbrushes, spares & accessories Iwata - airbrushes, compressors, spares & accessories Sparmax - compressors, airbrushes, spares & accessories Mr Hobby - airbrushes, spares, paints & accessories Neo for Iwata - airbrushes, spares & accessories Werther Sil-Air - silenced compressors & spares Benchvent - spray booths Tamiya - paints, tools, masking & accessories Swann Morton - knives & blades Olfa - knives, cutters & blades Micro-Mesh - abrasives Flex-I-File - abrasives & adhesives Model Craft - tools Ultimate Modelling Products - cleaner, thinner & primers Others - Xuron, 3M, Light Craft, Artool, Aircom, Adhesives, Brushes.......... Thanks for looking, Martin Ferguson, Air Tech Equipment Ltd.
  9. Hello there. After a long time, I've managed to spray the Future without any problems and have a smooth surface even after 3rd coat. It shines, yes, but there are some dust particles and it seems they stuck there while I was spraying the coats. My question is, how should i get rid of these without ruining the future coat so much? Wet sanding seems to activate the Future lies beneath. However coating that area again seems to fix the problem. Also should I wax with Tamiya stuff (or something else you may suggest) after coating my model with Future and letting it dry like several hours maybe days ? Some say that it dulls the final appearance, but some are using as well. Cheers, Baran
  10. This is my new "dirty" corner, for painting and airbrushing. At the other end, to the right, is a clean bench for doing anything that doesn't involve paint. I'm left handed, so the brush to the left works well. The window points NW, so really good light. When spraying/airbrushing I use the face mask in the picture, but I'm thinking of some sort of extraction ventilation to go out of the window. Has anyone here made up an extraction system? I'm thinking of using a cooker hood fan, and making a wooden plate to go between the window and the frame. All comments, as ever, most welcome!
  11. Hi there, I am hoping that I can pick the brains of those of you who have experience airbrushing with Revell Aqua acrylics, as I am having a real battle getting a smooth finish on a Ferrari 458 build. I have a H&S Evolution, and used Humbrol grey spray primer prior to spraying. After reading as much info as possible, I thinned the paint to the 'semi skimmed milk' consistency using de-ionised water. I sprayed in light coats, gradually building up the thickness. However, for some reason, I am getting a rough sand paper-like finish, usually semi-gloss. I have changed the air pressure from 25 psi sprayed at about 10/12 cm distance to 15psi sprayed at half that distance. I also thinned the paint less the closer I was to the model. I have now stripped it three times and have no idea how to solve this, apart from sanding with 5000 grit then covering with Alclad 2 Aqua Gloss in the hope it will look OK. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I have a few images but am not sure how to post them? Many thanks, Ant.
  12. Hi chaps. I've heard great things about molotow liquid chrome pens, and decided to pick one up to try. I've not used it yet, but am about to start a kit that needs extensive chrome stripping and re applying. Due to the large amount of painting needed I was hoping to airbrush it all. Can anyone tell me if the the molotow paint needs thinning? If so what would anyone recommend? Thanks in advance. Matt
  13. I'm completely new to all of this and so I have bought myself a 50 litre compressor and an Iwata HP-CS Airbrush. The little problem I have is that there is nothing in between to connect the two...! I went onto the Iwata website and was just bamboozled with all sorts of connections and fitments, and with nothing actually in the paperwork regarding thread sizes or internal or external diameters, I'm just left wondering, "What the hell do I need!" Does anyone has some insight into making this as simple as possible?
  14. Hi, I’m getting back into model making after 30 years and came across your (very useful) website – a great resource. I have just bought an H&S Evolution airbrush and am only using acrylic (water-based) paints for my bike or car projects. So far I have found that the Revell Aqua paint sprays okay, whilst I can’t seem to get on with Humbrol at all (variable results across pots of the same colour) My question is this – which water based acrylics give the best metallic finish (ie on exhausts, wheels, engine covers, etc)? From what I can see there are quite a few makes to choose from here in the UK: AK Extreme Metal, Vallajo Metal Colour, Vallajo Model Air, etc – do they all have to be used over a primer? And if so, what type (matt/gloss)? Can these all be sprayed with a clear coat to protect/enhance them? What are the acrylic (non-solvent) clear coats like to use? The biggest attraction of these for me is that they are water-based and thus make cleaning the airbrush easy and odour free. Any advice greatly received, thanks!
  15. I heard of using an airbrush to paint on decal paper but can't find anything on it. I use a laser printer and laser paper if it matters. I want to know, should I use just acrylic paint and do I put the decal film on before and/or just after.
  16. Hello, I was wondering if someone already tested Mig's new Aircobra airbrush and can deliver first-hand, non-sponsored insights on it. Especially, the usage with acrylics is something where other manufacturers struggle. To my understanding the brush itself is manufactured by Badger but is not a simple re-branded copy of one of their products. Which Bdager airbrush would come closest to the Aircobra components- and handling-wise? Thanks! Cristian
  17. https://www.amazon.de/Gocheer-100-250V-Kompressor-Modellbau-Reinigung-TS100BMC/dp/B071XVWZ3C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1531083626&sr=8-3&keywords=airbrush This set was suggested to me by an ig scale modelling account and it looks really good. Does anyone else have this specific set and would you recommend it for a beginner with a tight budget
  18. Hi guys, I'll be perfectly honest in that I joined here to share some information i gathered while researching airbrushes. I'm not a modeller, but an airbrush artist and custom painter/scenic artist. I've done a lot of work for disney world and some of you guys might have seen some of my work in the form of talking tikis at the mini golf course in hastings. I'll post what i've found in the appropriate section as soon as i figure out what that is
  19. So today, whilst discovering that somehow my last cleaning job had missed a bit of paint on the needle, I set about cleaning my airbrush. I recently started removing the nozzle to push the needle out the front to try and avoid fouling in the rear. Unfortunately, as I tightened that back up, it sheared, with the threaded section now inside the airbrush. I've seen a vid where you can potentially remove it, but even if I do, trying to find a compatible nozzle could be an issue. I spotted one airbrush that looks identical to the one I have, but is a different make. Only £11.59, with a 4.5 star review. So long as it did the job I'd be happy with it. I then saw a Sparmax Max 3 for £50. It apparently comes with an adapter for use with diaphragm compressors, which I think my little three-mode one is. My question is, would a continuous flow of air blow out as it currently does with my other two airbrushes (my old Revell one will work for now, but the cup is tiny on it), which is great for quick drying. I don't use them in dual action. The Revell one was single, and I somehow made the other work in single. I ask primarily because a review video I saw didn't seem to be letting air flow through once the trigger was released, but I figured tha maybe because the reviewer was using a tank compressor. If anyone could clarify whether or not the Sparmax Max 3 would continue to release air when I release the trigger, that'd be a big help https://www.emodels.co.uk/sparmax-max-3-airbrush-with-pre-set-handle-and-crown-cap-sp-max-3.html This is the airbrush/compressor combo I have been using https://www.amazon.co.uk/Floureon-Airbrush-Compressor-Action-Artwork/dp/B01LZI6UG7 The cheap, potential replacement. https://www.amazon.co.uk/0-2mm-Dual-Gravity-Feed-Airbrush/dp/B00832H5VO/ref=pd_vtph_328_bs_tr_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XV63P4BA09SZFZKXNCA4 Cheers, Gaz
  20. I'm having a lot of ideas at the moment. The latest is to build a DIY spray booth, (for when I've sorted out an airbrush), but what concerns me are the electrics. Assuming that I've got the right parts - bathroom extractor fan, 3-core, on/off switch and 3-pin plug, does anyone have an idea on how to wire these things up? I only ask, because I'm a simple mechanical engineer and can attach bits together, but have always seen electrics as a bit of a black art.. Any advice would be appreciated.
  21. Universal Airbrush Accessories Iwata from Airbrushes.com Lube Everyone wants to keep their airbrush in top condition, after all they are not cheap. This is a non toxic silicone free lubricant from Iwata which can be used on all moving parts. In particular they recommend applying it to; The Main Lever, Needle Packing, Valve-piston packing, along the needle and the needle cap to enhance paint flow and prevent tip drying. This is a new formula and is now clear. This new formula does not evaporate and maintains its viscosity. Recommended to keep your Airbrush in tip top condition. Spray Out Cleaning Pot This is a universal pot to allow spraying out paint and cleaning products from your Airbrush. This is a glass pot the lower part of which is covered with a removable rubber sleeve. This stops the pot from sliding of your work bench, and if it does in someway will offer some protection from breaking. There is a hanger which will fit all gravity-side-bottom feed and trigger style brushes (sp pretty much all of them then!). There is a filter cap which holds small foam type filters of which you get two spares in the box (these are also available to buy separate). The cap can even hold small parts if you dont want them rolling around. The pot eliminates over-spray when cleaning and its easy to clean up afterwards. The glass bowl when removed from its sleeve is even dishwasher safe. Highly recommended, especially if like me you have just been using an old jar for this. Airbrush Holder / Hanger As the name would suggest this is holder to keep your brush(es) safe on the bench. This is universal and will hold two brushes of any combination. The design holds your brushes securely and prevents them from being accidentally pulled off. There is a heavy duty clamp which will open up to 3 inches (75mm). The box also includes a bracket to attach the cleaning pot to the stand. Workstation As mentioned the Spray out pot can be attached to the airbrush holder to create a Workstation. In addition there are tapped holes and a screw to mount a pressure regulator here as well if needed. If purchased as a work station there is a cost saving as well. Conclusion These are some handy tools from Iwata which will fit most airbrushes out there and will help keep your equipment in good condition. Recommended. Review samples courtesy of
  22. Hi guys Totally new to this forum so this is my first post. Im a brush painter and am really happy with the quality im getting so far. Although now i have a project planned which will require an airbrush. I need to create a gradiant and feel i need an airbrush for the task. As this will be my first adventure into airbrushing I thought id start at entry level. I wondred if anyone could take a perk at these airbrush sets i found ebay and tell me if theyd run tamiya and vallejo acrylics through them. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262787237714 Or this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142449225239 Thanks for any replies Regards
  23. Summer offer Limited to the first 5 takers..... We have 5 copies of Meinrad Martin Froschin book A Beginners Guide to Airbrushing retailing at £12.99. A copy of the book will be including free with the next 5 Airbrush and compressor sets sold in August, so be Quick ! Forgot to add a link to the sets, so here it is: http://www.modellingtools.co.uk/airbrush--compressor-sets-196-c.asp Thanks, Paul
  24. Evening all. Bit of a little conundrum here. I've been airbrushing my models for about a year, but recently my Revell Basic Airbrush and Compressor Set has been on its way out. I've always used the lowest pressure setting and its started making a clunky noise when in operation (something rattling in it too). After buying three separate replacements of the same set (but which ended up being the European version and not the UK one) and sending them back due to really poor performance, I turned to a mini-compressor set I found on Amazon, specifically this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/Floureon-Airbrush-Compressor-Action-Artwork/dp/B01LZI6UG7/ref=pd_sbs_21_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KQZDRWDW74TNWQ44MT75 So far it has the same kind of operation and performs more like my original set, but I'm having an issue with spatter. The set has a double-action airbrush, but I swapped out the connector with that of my single action airbrush, which then connects into the supplied filter. This corrects the problem of the airbrush spitting out globs of paint whenever I trigger the airflow, but the paint on the whole still seems to be spitting finely around the target area. I'm using the same paint, thinned to the same level, as I did before without issue, so I'm a bit stumped. The needle is clean and straight, the pressure seems to be comparable to my previous compressor, and the paint is the same. So I'm not particularly sure what to do. There's a little adjusting screw at the back of the airbrush, which my original didn't have. I don't know if that could avert that, but playing around with it while the airbrush isn't running told me it tightens the trigger until it doesn't move. Any ideas on what I could do to rectify this? Its not so bad for larger work, although it would be less efficient since the paint is spraying beyond where its intended, but details could be problematic, especially freehand camo. P.S. I'm using Tamiya paint, which I thin in the pots to the same level. Gaz
  25. Hi All, I'm sure the regulars must be fed up of threads like this but I'm going to ask for help anyway. I'd like to get an airbrush kit that I can use for painting models, toys and detail work on motorcycles (pinstriping, touch-ups, flames etc... nothing large) I'm fortunate enough to have a decent budget available and would prefer to buy decent quality tools that will last and can be maintained rather than something that will wear out or will become limiting very quickly. Long term spares availability is important to me. I've done some research and find that a gravity fed, dual action airbrush paired with a compressor with a receiver tank seems to be the popular option. Any suggestions on what I should be looking at and what nozzle sizes are most suitable whilst learning? Apart from the airbrush and compressor what else should I budget for? Routine cleaning materials and tools? Moisture trap and regulator? Respirator? Spares? Consumables? Budget wise I was thinking circa £350ish but that's flexible. Basically I'm looking for the sweet spot In the budget range where I'm getting good quality and features without going OTT on specs or features that I'll never need as a hobbyist. Any help or advice will be gratefully received. Martin
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