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Found 31 results

  1. Hi there, I am hoping that I can pick the brains of those of you who have experience airbrushing with Revell Aqua acrylics, as I am having a real battle getting a smooth finish on a Ferrari 458 build. I have a H&S Evolution, and used Humbrol grey spray primer prior to spraying. After reading as much info as possible, I thinned the paint to the 'semi skimmed milk' consistency using de-ionised water. I sprayed in light coats, gradually building up the thickness. However, for some reason, I am getting a rough sand paper-like finish, usually semi-gloss. I have changed the air pressure from 25 psi sprayed at about 10/12 cm distance to 15psi sprayed at half that distance. I also thinned the paint less the closer I was to the model. I have now stripped it three times and have no idea how to solve this, apart from sanding with 5000 grit then covering with Alclad 2 Aqua Gloss in the hope it will look OK. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I have a few images but am not sure how to post them? Many thanks, Ant.
  2. Hi there, I'm hoping someone can advise regarding the options available to me for an acrylic, water-based gloss clear coat. I have watched countless YouTube videos of people using various clear gloss coats including Future (I'm UK based so no idea what the equivalent is). Is there a water-based (and cleaned with water) gloss clear coat available? I tried the Humbrol Clear Gloss over Revell Aqua Matt Black as a test. The Black was dry at least 24 hours before I applied the Clear. The result was disappointing - satin at best and patchy dull in others. Definitely not gloss as I wanted it. I applied 3 more coats, leaving 30 mins between layers, yet nothing changed. Still satin, and mainly dull. I do not want to go down the path of using any lacquer or solvent based products. I spray and brush only water based acrylics. I have read that Alclad is excellent, but don't know much about it. Is it a lacquer? And will it need to be cleaned with a solvent (and stink out my house!)? I did look through the Paint topic in the forums, however most of the replies are quite old so I wanted to make sure I had up to date replies. Any advice greatly received!
  3. I finished my first tank with a heavy weathering of mainly oil washes. Can I use acrylic matte varnish on top of that?
  4. John

    Black is Black

    Reputedly the meanest, mattest, blackest acrylic black on the market: This is one coat over a papier mache mask from The Works. It's still drying so there's some glossiness to bits of it but there's no denying it's black and it's matt: Manufacturer's website: http://stuartsemple.com/project/black-v1-0-beta-worlds-mattest-flattest-black-art-material/ John
  5. I've reached the stage with my Welsh Models Vickers Valletta to start painting and some areas are dayglo red. Can anyone advise me what acrylics are available for this colour, also is it available in a rattlecan? I have seen cans of Humbrol spray for Flourescent Orange but not Dayglo/Flourescent Red. I am building an aircraft with a livery for the Far East Transport Command. Any help would be gratefully appreciated. Mike
  6. Sherman Tanks Vol.1 WWII Commonwealth (A.MIG.7169) Ammo of Mig Jiménez By now we're all pretty familiar with the AMMO range of paints, and many folks are very happy with how they brush and airbrush, so I won't bore you with any of that malarkey. The sets popping out from the AMMO factory are very useful, as they act as a one-stop shop for your project in hand. This time, if it's a Sherman tank that you're wanting to paint (not to be confused with its namesake, the General), then you might want to read on. Arriving in their now standard cardboard box with header flap, this set contains six colours that are specifically mixed with your Sherman in mind, either directly for this pack, or already extant in their range, which explains the non-consecutive numbers of the individual paints. You might initially think that all you need is green, but many, many Shermans were painted with camouflage colours in service, and if the slight flood that ruined the profile book hadn't happened, I'd be able to refer you to that for examples. Sadly, it's now illegible, but we're trying to get another copy for review, so bear with us. In the box is a vacformed clear plastic tray that keeps the six bottles together when you remove them. The bottles are industry standard 17ml dropper bottles with the now-traditional yellow caps that indicate there is a steel ball-bearing within the bottle to aid in paint agitation. This will be a huge help, as AMMO paints do separate when left to settle. A damn good shake will see all the pigments and carrier mixed back together, and you also get a pleasing clatter of the bearing, telling you it is doing its work. In the box you get the following colours: A.MIG.061 BS381c No.61 Light Stone (labelled warm sand yellow) A.MIG.110 SCC 1A British Brown (1941-42) A.MIG.111 SCC 2 British (1941-44) Service Drab A.MIG.112 SCC 15 British (1944-45) Olive Drab A.MIG.113 British Khaki Green No.3 (1939-42) A.MIG.217 BS 381x No.34 Dark Slate (also RLM02) Now we wait for Volume.2 to arrive, although Volume.2 and Volume.3 have become available since we received our sample. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  7. So this is from the new range of metallics released by Mission Models along with their aircraft shades. Courtesy of @TIGER HOBBIESLIMITED I will be starting some tomcats to use the US FS greys soon, but I have a move coming up which is likely to delay those, so thought I'd give this a quick blast for the 'Russia with love' group build. (This build was planned to wear Revell aqua - eg cockpit was already done) So about the paint- This build was primed in the gloss black stynylrez, another new product to me, to make this an all acrylic NMF. (Link for gloss stynylrez at bottom of the post) The mission metals are quite thin and not very 'dense' out of the bottle when compared to their other paints that come thick. This is down to the nature of the pigments that they use from one shade to the next as per their 'tip and tricks' on their website. It also says to build up and spray the metals in light coats. I can confirm this, the paint is thin enough to spray straight from the bottle. Lots of light coats are the best way. They dry much quicker too then and less time for a chance of dust or fluff settling on the paint. I went into double figures for this level of coverage. A bit tedious but the results are worth it. Perhaps a grey primer would have been better and not required as many layers? Anyways, despite having double figures coats of paint all the detail is still perfectly crisp as the paint really shrinks back and levels out once the carrier has evaporated and/or flashed of. I also speeded each layer up with a hairdryer on a low setting. Now for some pics. Tried to get a few different angles to catch the light and change the shade. I think it looks pretty good. Nice and smooth at normal viewing distances. Some of the close ups are a touch grainy but no acrylic NMF will withstand that much scrutiny. On the undersides I went bold with the coverage when spraying to try and see how forgiving the paint is. You can almost get one coat coverage of the black, but it required me to flood the surface that much that all the panel lines and rivets disappeared. Once it dried they all returned but the finish wasn't that great (as expected) so light coats and patience is definitely the way to go. I am going to do another NMF with these soon, but may start with a lighter primer and do some colour variation using this aluminium again and then a few mixed darker shades with the 'cold rolled steel' (gunmetal) added to do a patchwork type finish. UPDATE: steel and burnt iron. More in post #14 below: Thanks for looking! Gloss black stynylrez:
  8. Eugene

    Grainy acrylics?

    Hi folks, I've only just come back to scale modelling after a 25 year gap, so taking it slowly! I've started out with a 1:72 Spitfire and I'm finding that my paint in some areas/colours is really grainy - I'm using Humbrol Acrylics and brushes (I never graduated to an airbrush!) Is this 'grainy texture' due to not mixing the paint enough, not thinning enough, or just duff paint? Any ideas or tips greatly appreciated!
  9. Gloss black stynylrez! Trying this out as a base coat for acrylic NMF. Initial thoughts at bottom, Quite happy with it. First few coats were dusted on. Then it can have heavier wet coats. Left to dry naturally results in a higher gloss (drop tank) I flashed the airframe off with a hairdrier as was in a rush last night, force drying it results in a more satin sheen. But good enough for this quick (Eduard 1/72 Mig-15Uti) group build (Sunday deadline)
  10. Hey, After laying my hands on a 1/350 water line model I started wondering what products there could be for seascape modelling? A short google and youtube search brought up MIG, AK and Vallejo products but barely any comparison. Other than the price, is any of these better/worse than the others? Also, if you might care to share your approach to modelling waves and water that would be very useful to a beginner like me, for sure. Many thanks! Cristian
  11. How well does Vallejo Model Air brush paint? I have it in my head that it is formulated for airbrushing but does that mean it is sort of pre-thinned and does that give it a consistency anything like their regular acrylic with a dollop of flow improver added?
  12. I'm not sure if anyone will be interested in this but… A couple of years ago I noticed that colours/shades on the Tamiya lids and paint charts didn't match the actual paint. So I used strips of plastic card to spray each colour to get an accurate swatch. It was a long BORING job, but it was well worth, it as I refer to it on almost every build I do. Out of interest, yesterday I superimposed the colour shown on a Tamiya paint chart, with a scan of my colour swatch. Admittedly, my monitor is not colour calibrated, but the differences shown, match my experiences of matching the paint lids with the colour on the model. As you can see, the only exact matches are black, white and XF-12. Some are quite close, but the majority are well off. Does anyone know why this is the case?
  13. Is it possible to use White Spirit to remove around 2 thin coats of acrylic paint on a model? Will it damage or eat through the plastic? If it's not safe, please suggest other alternatives other than Fairy Spray, as I've already tried that without any luck because of the new bottles.
  14. Humbrol Acrylic Paint Humbrol Humbrol is a brand name synonymous with scale modelling. With a long and rich history in the hobby, there won’t be many British modellers who have never prised open a tin of their enamel paint, squeezed a tube of their polystyrene cement or dipped one of their paint brushes in a tin of their thinners. Their history is intertwined with that of another iconic brand too – Airfix. Humbrol have had a range of acrylic paints available alongside their long-standing enamel paint range for some time. Now that they have moved most of their manufacturing back to the UK, it seems a good time to take a look at some of them. Humbrol have sent a box containing a sample of acrylics in 14ml plastic pots. The following colours were inside: 9 – Tan (gloss) 12 – Copper (metallic) 18 – Orange (gloss) 20 – Crimson (gloss) 38 – Lime (gloss) 52 – Baltic Blue (metallic) 67 – Tank Grey (matt) 86 – Light Olive (matt) 94 – Brown Yellow (matt) 155 – Olive Drab (matt) 191 – Chrome Silver (metallic) 237 – Desert Tan (matt) 238 – Arrow Red (gloss) 239 – British Racing Green (gloss) Humbrol acrylics are water based, which makes them easy to use indoors where the odour of enamel paints and associated thinners can be a problem. The 12ml pots are nicely designed, and it’s possible to remove the screw-top lids and access the paints without spilling the contents everywhere. Once opened, they can be brush painted or airbrushed, and can be thinned with water or isopropyl alcohol. The paint is reasonably thick though, so a minute or so invested in stirring the contents will be well spent. I’m a fairly dedicated user of acrylic paints already, although Tamiya and Mr Colour are my favoured brands. That said, Tamiya’s range is far from comprehensive and Mr Colour is hard to get hold of in the UK, so I’m always open to the possibilities offered by different brands. I tried spraying this Humbrol acrylic with my Iwata Revolution airbrush, having thinned it with Tamiya’s X-20A thinner. I’m happy to report that it sprayed very nicely indeed, with good colour density and adhesion. I applied it to one of Airfix’s resin buildings, but I hope to try it on injection moulded plastic soon. Conclusion You can’t really fault Humbrol for the range of colours that they have available, particularly if, like me, you are used to thinking in Humbrol from a youth spend gluing Airfix kits together. They appear to spray and cover well too. Of course if you have Humbrol’s excellent work station (reviewed here), then these little pots will fit perfectly into that too. Recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  15. Hello . In the midst of waiting for some thinners to arrive to continue my Y-Wing build, my thoughts wandered to an unfinished 1/35 Dragon M1A2 SEP I'd put in the garage. I still have all the parts for it (though it would probably take me a while to discover exactly what I put together and haven't) and I figured this might be a good opportunity to use some of my greater knowledge to fix it up and finish it. Part of that process is to repaint it with sprays, masking it off for the camo scheme. Currently, the main parts are done in tri-colour NATO, which I hand-painted from the jars. I'd like to redo it in the same scheme with spray cans at some point, but I'd also like to try and restart the painting completely by resetting to the bare plastic. The current paint layer is pretty thin so spraying over probably won't make much difference to detailing, but all the same...does anyone know of a plastic-friendly, easily obtainable means of stripping the paint? I've seen some suggesting IPA, but others say its difficult to obtain. Would these methods also fog up clear parts or affect the glue (that's partly degraded in some places, which was a bit of a happy flaw in the end )? Cheers in advance
  16. Hello I am new here. I am more of an 'inventor' than a model-maker. I am looking for the best materials with which to do quick prototypes in order to test the functional qualities of various designs of new/inventive products. I recently watched this video: "Tutorial: The Basics of Working With Styrene" by CustomsByZ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p3gabIJ3Ono And I was rather inspired by it - I had forgotten how quick it is to knock up designs in styrene! However, given that I am more interested in mechanical function than in appearance (e.g. the ability to take paint), is there a better material for me to work in? i.e. I know styrene is rather soft so I am wondering if there are any other plastics that are available in reasonably cheap sheet and extruded form, that are similarly easy to work with (particularly to quickly form a very strong bond) but which have better/stronger mechanical properties? For now I will not be vacuum forming (unless wait, can I do that at home in my oven??), but will be cutting (with sharp X-Acto blades or similar / hack saw), filing, sanding, drilling. e.g. I just bought: A. Plasticard a small pack of Plasticard white styrene sheets "a quality virgin grade material" (from Station Road Baseboards ) http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00TWOHJE0/ref=pe_385721_37986871_TE_item B. EMA Plastic Weld And I am planning to bond it with "Plastruct EMA Plastic Weld - Liquid Polystyrene ABS Cement" http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121672870352 (as I couldn't find any "Ambroid Pro Weld" described in the US-based video - but I understand that they are both Methyl Chloride based, yes?) C. Plastic Fusion For stronger bonds I have also bought Plastic Fusion epoxy glue from Super Glue which apparently sets in 10 minutes http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261508621516 but obviously it's slight pain mixing it up. QUESTIONS: - How does ABS compare to Styrene, mechanically? - HIPS (High Impact PolyStyrene) vs. regular "styrene"? Are there any other plastics I might consider if I need something stronger/more springy etc but which are reasonably easy to machine and easily available e.g. - Polypropylene sheet - PE (Polyethylene High Density) - Nylon6 sheet - Acrylic ?? Also what are the pros & cons if/when I need some thing transparent: - Polycarbonate - PETG (Poly-Ethylene Terephthalate Glycol) - Perspex Acrylic - Acetate - Axpet Polyester Sheet Acrylic ?? And how well do all the above respond to extremely strong quick-setting glues/solvents/cements? On reflection, I think I need quick primer on material for model & prototype building...! Any quick thoughts? J
  17. Hi, I've asked for an airbrush for my birthday, a Badger one of some description (I'm sure I can find it if it matters. I'm planning on using it for some Airfix tank models and a Spitfire. I do have some previous experience with models,although I've only done about 8 before. I was just wondering how much I should thin my paints for use in the airbrush. I'm planning on using Humbrol acrylic paints (they do say that they can be thinned for airbrushing, but they don't say how much I should thin it). Also, would water be sufficient for thinning? If so, any advice on what amount of paint to water I should use would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
  18. Hello everybody, did anyone succeed in airbrushing Humbrol acrylics? I found this paint cannot be thinned with ethanol, my favorite airbrush-thinner. It rather turns into a sludge or does not disolve in the ethanol. Water, on the other hand, works very well with Humbrol acrylics. Citadel seems to be similar in this aspect. But I never succeeded in airbrushing anything thinned with water, as the paint immediately forms beads or tiny puddles on the model's surface. I have more or less the same problem with water, water with detergent, window cleaner (a German variety, I can't get Windex here, but it is probably similar) and even 70% IPA (=30% water). The problem seems to be that the water does not evaporate soon after hitting the surface as other, more volatile thinners do. On the other hand, I often read that people are using water or water-containing thinners for airbrush, so i wonder how it works. Ands sometimes it would be nice to be able to spray Humbrol or Citadel. Actually, the problem arose with a Folland Gnat that I had planned to spray with a Citadel silver (looks better than Tamiya's) and Humbrol's Fluorescent Red. Do you have any experince on this subjects? Thanks in advance, Ole
  19. We have now got in the Four New Vallejo Game Air Colours. Vallejo 72769 - Flesh Vallejo 72770 - Burned Flesh Vallejo 72771 - Barbarian Flesh Vallejo 72772 - Red Terracotta The colours in the range have been selected in collaboration with modellers specialized in fantasy figures and dioramas, and the existing colours in the Game Air range have been taken into particular consideration. The names and shades of the most popular colours of Game Colour have been maintained in Game Air, using the formulation and resins employed for Model Air (see Equivalency Table below). In the colour chart we include a diagram of the most frequent colour combinations: base colour, light and shadow.
  20. Just a quick note to say we've restocked and expanded on the range of Hataka and Ammo of Mig paint sets. We now stock not just the Aircraft related sets but also the Armour related sets too. http://www.mjwmodels.co.uk/hataka-hobby-293-c.asp http://www.mjwmodels.co.uk/ammo-of-mig-291-c.asp thanks Mike
  21. Hi fellow modellers. I have just used Future as a gloss coat for the first time. I normally use Enamel or Lacquer glosscoats that I would weather easily with acrylic/water based washes and chalk/pastel water sludges My question now is this...... With Future being acrylic .........what are my choices now for weathering????? Can I still use watered down acrylics or will that soften/remove the Future coat? Should I now used thinned enamels or oils for washes and panel lines. But what do I thin them with and clean them up with?? What about the pre-made stuff like Flory or Tamiya washes? Are they suitable for using on a Klear topcoat??? if so what can you safely clean them off with? I understand you shouldn't use ammonia based anything on Future to clean up (I believe) but is Isopropyl Alcohol or Methylated spirits okay. Is MicroSol and Micro Set still okay for settling decals that have been applied on a Future gloss coat Can you use water to clean up at all on a dried Furture Top coat or is that just not on. Any list of fluids/materials/thinning agents/weathering agents/solvents/aftermarket or specialist products etc that can be used safely for weathering and panel line highlights on a Future gloss coat would be greatly appreciated. Happy modelling everyone! Cheers Bruce
  22. This is my first post here on brimodeller and im fairly new to modelling (just finished a airfix starter) and im getting a 1/48 model soon but im wondering what paint brand to use for acrylic but i dont have an airbrush and will not be getting one soon so what brand is good for brush painting acrylics oh and if you dont mind answering are humbrol brushes good
  23. Some time ago I settled on Vallejo and find I'm fairly competent at airbrushing both Air and Model colour through my Iwatas; I prefer Air, but if I thin the Model Color with plain water and a drop or two of artists flow enhancer, it goes on OK. For the first time, I just tried some Vallejo fluorescent stuff, and couldn't make it work. Even adding more water and half a dozen drops of flow enhancer failed to prevent it from clogging up very quickly. And what gets onto the model is very thin, watery, feeble stuff. Is there a special technique? I wanted to use an Airfix aerosol fluo colour but blasted Antics in Bristol were out of stock yesterday... Thanks, Tony
  24. Luftwaffe Colours 2 AK Interactive Paints can be a very personal item to the modeller who can and will stick with one particular manufacturer or at the very least a specific type. The choice of paint in the current market is huge. Well, now there is another set of acrylic paints to choose from, released by AK Interactive, who are probably better known for their weathering products and are also increasing their line of paint. The set comes in an end opening box, with the 17ml plastic bottles contained in a plastic tray inside. This set has been designed for German aircraft, and contains eight Luftwaffe colours, RLM 72 RLM 73 RLM 78 RLM 79 RLM 80 RLM 81 RLM 82 RLM 83 According to the blurb on the bottles they can be both brushed or airbrushed which please a lot of modellers. Once the bottles have been shaken very well colour density looks pretty good, and if they are anything like their armour colours they spray and cover well. Although I haven’t used them with a brush, I cannot see why you shouldn’t be able to get a good finish with them. On the back of the box there is a useful colour chart of which colours go together and depict six aircraft in various schemes. These being two desert schemes for the Me-109, one for an F and one for a G, one scheme for the Arado Ar-196, one for the Junker Ju-52, (the float equipped version being shown), one for the Arado Ar-234 and one scheme for the Fw-190D. Also included in the package AK interactive sent to us were two bottles of thinners. The standard thinners, in a 60ml bottle is specifically for thinning the paints when using an airbrush and, according to the information on the side of the bottle has been designed to prevent clogging and jamming. The second bottle contains 100ml of what AK Interactive call their Nitro Thinners, a nitrocellulose based thinners which can be used with, again, according to the information on the bottle ,any other brand of acrylic paint. It can also be used to clean brushes and air brushes after use. How well either of these thinners works will only be known when I use them, which will probably be on my next build. After which I will be able amend this review accordingly Conclusion This is another set of very useful and well thought out selection of paint colours. The ease of use I’ve had with their previous paints should mean that when I get to use them the results will be just as pleasing. Since my next build will be for a review, it will be good to try these products at the same time. Highly recommended, subject to testing Paint set Thinners Nitro Thinners Review sample courtesy of
  25. I purchased a set of testors acrylic paints a while back. I have used one of the paints - Metallic Silver with code number of 1921575 on my klatest build. I am just about to run out, and can't seem to find this paint as an individual pot. I can only find it in the set, which of course, is about $14, and I haven't touched most of the other colors in the set, so I am going to end up with duplicate colors that will never get used. Does anyone know if Testors offer this particular silver in any other format?
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