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Found 7 results

  1. The kit is intended to simulate louvres and meshes on aircraft models F/A-18C/D (Late) in 1/32 scale produced by Academy. It may also be used for model F/A-18A/B except parts 2, 13, 16, 17. Made of steel with a thickness of 0.05 mm.
  2. This set intended to improve Great Wall Hobby 1/48 MiG29 (9-12, 9-13, SMT) exterior details. Made of steel with a thickness of 0.05 mm.
  3. This set is to correct air bleed channels shape and jet intake ramps width for the 1/48 Hasegawa F-14 Tomcat. Molded from polyurethane resin. Dry fit is required before installation.
  4. This set intended to improve 1/48 Monogram / Kinetic F-84F Thunderstreak exterior details. Highly detailed airbrakes, wing interceptors with fine details, emty shell ejection ports fences, small air scoops for both fuselage sides, JATO hooks are included in the set. Though airbrakes are very complicated to build, you can simlify building process, using kit details as a base for outer and inner elements. We will provide some building tips here soon for better model accuracy. Made of steel with a thickness of 0.05 mm.
  5. This set intended to improve Revell 1/48 Panavia Tornado exterior details. Set include: Gearbox cooling system fairings; Main heat exchanging system exhausts; Vortex generators; Wing gloves; BOZ-101/107 flares houses. Made of steel with a thickness of 0.05 mm.
  6. Hawker Hunter Flaps & Airbrake (for Academy PE4809) 1:48 AMUR Reaver Another not-new set from AMUR, but it's one we thought that the members would be interested in to update and improve the Academy kit's flaps with some realistic detail. The set arrives in a small ziplok bag and paper header, with two large sheets of Photo-Etch (PE) brass, plus a tiny one with a few extra parts on. The instructions are folded to double as the backing card, and walk you through the construction process. The kit's flaps are separate parts, which removes some of the prep-work that's normally associated with flap sets, but a little test-fitting and fettling is bound to be needed to get the trailing edge of the wing to a pleasing fineness. The first thing to note is that this set is suitable for all marks of Hunter, which had varying flap shapes to accommodate the hang-over of the various sizes of drop-tanks. If you are building an F.58 or FGA.9, you will need to place part 22 up against the flaps parts to remove a small section of PE from the flap skin, which would be best done roughly inside the line to begin with, then getting it just right with various shaped files, taking care not to bend the skin. With those done, your flaps will now clear the drop-tanks, and the template part forms the panel between flaps and ailerons, with scale thickness as a bonus. The bay skin glues into the upper wing, and the flap skin should be used to trim 2mm off the lower wing to obtain the correct depth before construction. Once the plastic is prepared the flap skin is detailed with rib and stringer parts, plus four hinge-points, and a stengthener along the trailing edge. The end of the flap with the cut-out needs different strengtheners and the substitution of some ribs for different shapes, all of which is included in the set. Finally, a small angled panel is added on the underside of the inboard flap to correspond with the diagonal rivet line on the inner side. As a bonus there are a number of parts dedicated to giving the ventral air-brake a more realistic look, as the styrene part is too thick and the detail soft. This is done by cutting off all but the hinge area of the brake piece (D8), and replacing it with an outer skin, four ribs, two stringers and an inner skin, which runs over the top of the ribs and stringers. A small folded hinge-point can then be added to the centre, improving the look immensely if you plan to have it open. Finally, there is a replacement hub for the nose wheel, although it looks like you need to drill out the original hub to add this finely etched six-part replacement that should give you a see-thru hub, as per the real thing. Conclusion A nice set that made me scratch my head for a bit until I got my head round the flap cut-outs, but once I'd got that was straight, it's a highly detailed and accurate replacement for the toy-like kit parts. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  7. P-51D Mustang Photo-Etch Sets (for Tamiya/ICM) 1:48 AMUR.Reaver These sets aren't new as such, but they are still very relevant to anyone building a Mustang from Tamiya or ICM, as they correct and improve on the detail of the kit. Each set arrives in a small ziplok bag, stapled to a flimsy header-card. Inside are the Photo-Etch (PE) sheets and sundry items, protected by the folded up instruction sheets that accompany each set. Wheel Wells (PE4806) Wheel wells on the Mustang are a source of frustration with modellers, as they are seldom done right by the manufacturers. This set is designed to replace the kit parts on the Tamiya kit, although it can also be used with other kits of the scale, although some modifications might be needed to accommodate the parts. It consists of one large sheet of brass, plus another small one with a few extra parts. They are marked as a correction, although I don't see any of them on the main sheet, so I assume these parts were added after initial production to expand the original. The first act will be to prepare the lower wing by adding two small edge parts, then thinning the wing to match by sanding, scraping or a combination of the two. The basic bay boxes are then made up, which involves folding of the stringers and sidewalls into place, with a couple of "do it first!" instructions to ensure you aren't left with any impossible folds later. With the box completed, the prominent ribs are glued in place, followed by some very fine wiring elements, hooks and cylinders in the inner front corner of the bays. At the bottom of the instructions some useful painting tips are included as zinc-chromate wasn't the only colour used. Cockpit & Radio Set (PE4805) This set comprises one large fret of PE, a slip of pre-printed clear acetate for the instrument panel, and an alternative printed white section bearing the same instrument details. This one isn't a complete replacement, more of an improvement set, which puts a lot of authentic detail on the sidewall, which varied by batch number. There are numerous call-outs to advise which parts are suitable, so if you know the batch number of the airframe you are modelling, it will make the task much easier. The electrical panel; map holder, flare pistol port; throttle and SCR-522 control box are all built up and positioned using the drawings to guide you. With the sidewalls detailed, the radio pack is built up from a number of parts, as is the instrument panel, where you can choose to use the clear or white sheet. Again the panel is different between batches so two are provided, and some optional parts are also included due to inconsistent installation or otherwise on different airframes. The gunsight is then constructed, with a choice of sight that might involve a little scratch-building if you use the earlier N-9 gunsight instead of the K-14 included in the base kit. A set of seatbelts are added to the kit seat, replacement pedals for the rudder, and the rear deck behind the pilot is skinned and given a frame on which the radio and accumulator are placed. An optional AN/APS-13 tail-warning antenna is the final part, which was sometimes fitted, so check references for the airframe you are building before you proceed. Conclusion Two highly detailed and authentic sets for the advanced modeller that will improve the detail on your Mustang, while giving your Photo-Etch handling skills a moderate work-out. The extra hints and tips are also most welcome to guide you down the right path. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
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