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Found 13 results

  1. Kit: AMT/ERTL Curtiss P-40N - 8798, released in 1995 Paints: Alclad - ALC 102 Duraluminum, ALC 121 Burnt Iron Gunze - H76 Burnt Iron Model Master - 4721 Insignia Yellow, 4757 Aircraft Interior Black, 4852 Green Zinc Chromate, 17178 Chrome Silver Polly Scale - 505080 US Olive Drab A/N613, 505096 US Interior Green A/N611, 505260 British Middlestone Tamiya - LP-2 White, LP-7 Red, XF-3 Flat Yellow, XF-7 Flat Red, XF-26 Deep Green, XF-69 NATO Black, Fine Grey Primer (spray can) Vallejo - 71.062 Aluminium Johnson’s Future Aftermarket: FCM 4801 decals Master AM48137 - Curtiss P-40E-N Detail Set Ultracast 48071 - P-40N Covered Wheels, Diamond Tread Ultracast 48153 - Curtiss P-40E-N Flared Exhausts Vector VDS-48075 - P-40E/N Corrected Prop & Spinner Scratch built: Rudder trim wheel Modified reflector gunsight This one is from the 1st Squadron, 14th Aviation Group of the Brazilian Air Force (FAB) based in Canoas, state of Rio Grande do Sul. That’s the land of Gaúchos, from the cowboys which inhabit the region as well as Uruguay and Argentina, and of Brazilian barbecue. Gaúchos interject “tchê” in their speech, hence the title. The squadron’s mascot, Zé Loro, is saying: “Já te atendo tchê!” (I’ll take care of you tchê!). Regarding the mascot, the squadron had adopted Disney’s Joe Carioca (Zé Carioca, in Portuguese) when it was the 3rd Fighter Group. Then, in the early ‘50s the squadron started viewing Zé Carioca as a slacker and wanted a new image, more warrior-like, so they morphed Zé Carioca into a Zé Gaúcho, reclining on a bomb with 0.50 machine gun on his lap, sipping mate tea like a good Gaúcho. The trials and tribulations of building this kit are chronicled here: In short, if you want to build a nice P-40 model D or higher in 1/48, try Hasegawa or Mauve/Eduard. Stay clear of AMT/ERTL, AMTech, and Italeri (as the moulds changed hands). On to the pictures. IMG_4098 by Wlad Franco-Valias, on Flickr IMG_4099 by Wlad Franco-Valias, on Flickr IMG_4100 by Wlad Franco-Valias, on Flickr IMG_4101 by Wlad Franco-Valias, on Flickr IMG_4102 by Wlad Franco-Valias, on Flickr IMG_4103 by Wlad Franco-Valias, on Flickr IMG_4104 by Wlad Franco-Valias, on Flickr IMG_4105 by Wlad Franco-Valias, on Flickr IMG_4106 by Wlad Franco-Valias, on Flickr IMG_4107 by Wlad Franco-Valias, on Flickr And with its shelf mate, a T-33A bought at the same time. By coincidence it's from the same squadron; the blue band with the southern cross had me at first sight. The neighbours above are two T-6s, also from the Brazilian Air Force. IMG_4108 by Wlad Franco-Valias, on Flickr Cheers, Wlad
  2. This kit was an impulse buy. You see, there used to be a store owner here in Calgary who went by the name of Uncle Rick. Evil man, he was. Any time I went to his store, I ended up coming home with way more than I went there to get 😁. Back in 2002, I went there looking for a bubble top P-47D which, to my surprise, he did not have. I came home with this P-40N, a T-33, and a few other things I really wasn’t after. Upon opening the rather large box, I realized I got a curate’s egg of a kit. Looks rotten, yet parts of it are excellent. The mold was misaligned during manufacture, resulting in every single part having flash on it. I started this kit twice, and got tired of: remove from sprue, sand or scrape the flash off, correct as needed, rinse and repeat. I considered giving it away, yet something about it kept calling me back whenever I had extra paint in the airbrush cup I didn’t want to waste. It sat in the stash until now, when I decided it’s time to put it out of its (or my) misery. This build is a test to see how good I can make this kit look. I know the decals I have in mind will let it down at the end, yet let’s see what I learn in the process. Here's a general view of some parts of the kit. Notice some parts are painted already at the “beginning” of this build. Also the plentiful flash present, with the larger pieces laid out for scale. The panel lines are fine though, hence the curate’s egg mention before. IMG_3714 by Wlad Franco-Valias, on Flickr The worst impact of the mold misalignment. I thought about cutting the tail with a razor saw and then gluing it at the appropriate place. Then I also thought all this work could introduce more misalignment, so it’s going to stay this way. I’ll blend in the misalignment by sanding. IMG_3715 by Wlad Franco-Valias, on Flickr More to come soon. Cheers, Wlad
  3. The Fw-190 is an AMT / ERTL kit at 1/48. I also used metal figures and the academy cubelwagen. For the base, I used styrofoam-dow, toothpicks, epoxy putty, static grass, painting (hagiography) powders and soil.
  4. All: I thought it best to illustrate what I've been discussing elsewhere by use of illustration. As engineered, the original AMT/ERTL KC/EC/RC-135 kit has a dihedral problem--too little of it, to be precise. The way you can tell is by looking at the built model in profile and realizing that the outboard engine should be a good deal higher off the ground than it is, and that the wing tips should come up to the level of the cockpit, even when the plane is sitting on the ground. To correct this will require some patience and risk-taking. Good: the kit has soft plastic, which means it's pliable. Bad: the kit has soft plastic, which means that if you try to bend the wings without prepping them first, you'll create all kinds of distortions, especially in the trailing edge and the airfoil. To start with, here is your critical infrastructure. It consists of parts 21, 49, 22, and a portion of the floor assembly. Using an extra kit, I cemented two part 21's back-to-back and sanded them to a constant surface so that they would provide added surface area for the wing. As molded, part 21 imparts dihedral to the wing, but probably not enough for what you'll need. I used a hobby knife to cut away the underside of the part and increase its angle relative to the horizontal. I also added an extra bulkhead to prevent part 102 from distorting where it meets the forward fuselage:
  5. Here's a project that stalled for a long time. In places it's been a pig of a kit, with parts that don't seem to want to fit together. On the other hand it's got lots of cool parts, there were enough engine bits to build a complete 426 Hemi (which is in a safe place somewhere and one day I'll find it) but I decided to go with a 440 6-barrel engine. Unfortunately the options didn't extend to the transmission, I'd rather have an automatic but the parts were only for a 4-speed. Anyway, despite my moans I'm please with how it turned out although it feels a bit strange not having anything left to do with it. Here it is. Under bonnet (hood) it's pretty much out of the box. Underside with a few added pipes and cables. Rear end got a licence plate. I'm not sure if I can recommend this kit but I think the end result was worth the occasional bouts of frustration. On completing this build I managed to find on eBay a Mongram kit of the related 1970 Plymouth Road Runner. I thought the Monogram might just be a reboxing but it appears to be totally different. Anyway, the price was right so I ordered it. It hasn't arrived yet, and I've no idea when it will get to the head of the build queue, but it seems I'm not quite done with American muscle cars.
  6. I don't know if there is a record for the longest time taken to complete a kit, but this has taken me over ten years to get to the stage you see here. The late 1960s Chrysler Corporation "B-Body", mid-size cars are some of my favourite cars; I have various models of this family of vehicles. Off the top of my head there were the Dodge Coronet and Super Bee; Plymouth Belvedere, Satellite, Road Runner and GTX. Plymouth billed the GTX as the gentleman's muscle car, with luxury trim as well as powerful engines. I think I picked up this kit through ebay; I always wanted to take my time and do a good job but I think I may have taken it a bit too far! Here's the box: Let's see the progress so far: The body is painted and has had one clear coat (this is just a mock up of final assembly) the lacquer went on a bit thick in places so I'll do a fine rub down and give it another coat. You can build the kit with the bonnet fixed open or closed, I think the final build will have to fix it in place unless I can work out how to make it easily removable. I am quite pleased with how the engine looks, the kit comes with two complete engines and various carburettor options and the associated manifolds. I've gone for the 440-cubic inch "wedge head" engine with 6-barrel carburettor. You can also build the same engine with a four-barrel carburettor and the kit also comes with a complete 426 Hemi and two four-barrel carburettors (which I've built up and put in a safe place somewhere, i.e. I can't find it). The plan was always to build this with the 440-6 option. It's a pity the kit only comes with a representation of the four-speed manual gearbox as I'd prefer to build my dream GTX, which would be a 440 coupled to the three-speed automatic. I'm even pleased with how the engine bay turned out. If I do another of these I may try to wire up the plug leads and add more details. Test fit of the engine in the engine bay. Underside view, apparently Chrysler didn't bother with paint on the underside apart from overspray, so that's what I've tried to replicate here. The back axle had a plated cover for the differential (I'm sure that's not correct) and I'd previously started to scrape away the plating. I've also spotted that I glued the leaf springs on the wrong way around as the damper mountings should be inboard of the springs and the current location fouls the wheels/tyres. A little gentle but persistent finger pressure eventually separated the springs from the axle. I'll try oven cleaner to remove the plating. The interior tub is pretty much complete. I used to (back in my teenage years) hate/struggle with interiors but this one has turned out OK. The centre console seems to have come out quite well with a fake wood finish. OK that's the recap, stay tuned for the next installent.
  7. Hi comrades! Here is my take on AMT kit. Despite the kit's age, it was a pleasant build. Aftermarket used: Foxbot decals (excellent!) Eduard brass (intermediate, not everything helpful) True detail resin wheels and rescue inflatable boat - (nice) Montex masks for canopy and standard markings (excellent) Quickboost engines, cowlings and browning's - (good, but engines were additionally wired ) Scratchbuilt: engines wiring, wheel wells wiring, wings navigation lights, tail light enhanced. Thanks for looking The build is here
  8. Hi all, I'm also in with the AMT/ERTL 1/48 Douglas A-20G Havoc as an aircraft named 'Joker' of the 410th Bomb Group/647th Bomber Squadron. I'll be doing the aircraft specific decals as home prints, the artwork for which is already underway. A fairly simple kit, but the plastic seems a little soft and the fuselage halves in particular are very bendy and will need to be treated carefully with the possible inclusion of some internal sections to avoid any twisting or distortion later in the build. The kit cockpit isn't too bad but I spotted this Vector set at SWM last year so thought I'd give a full resin cockpit a go. Cheers, Mark.
  9. Hi everyone. I hope you've all had a great Christmas. I've started a new model over the last few weeks; an AMT/ERTL A-Wing. It's quite a basic kit out of the box, and i'm planning to do very little in the way of customisation. Having said that, the two parts I like the least are the raised panel lines, and the terrible pilot. I've never tried scribing panel lines before, but I'm giving it a go on this one. In several places I've slipped and messed up, so had to fill I'm a few bits and pieces, but even though it's a bit clumsy in places, it still looks better than raised lines. The pilot is taken from a set of Hasegawa pilots, not exactly screen accurate, but better scaled, and far better detail. Work so far: The pilot will be painted in screen accurate colours, even though he's not screen accurate himself. Please excuse the rather questionable posing of the arms, with the pilot being larger than the one provided in the kit (this one is better for the size of the ship) I've had to make sure that arms fit into the available space. Thanks for looking folks.
  10. Kit - 1:25 AMT/Ertl Paint - Body & chassis, Tamiya acrylic. Engine & details, Tamiya, Humbrol & Xtracolour enamels. Decals - Kit. Extras - None This was started in November 2012 and sent to the 'Shelf of Forgetfulness' when I scr*w*d-up the soft edge demarcation between the red/yellow and white on the nose, and it stayed there until three weeks ago after a chat about car modelling in general and NASCAR modelling in particular between a few of us on another (US based) site. Well here it is three weeks after that exchange and I'm quite pleased with the result. Make no mistake, this was always going to be a 'cabinet sitter', it'll never see a competition table and the nearest model club is an hours' flight away. No, this is my way to re-learn those very particular skills needed for NASCAR kits, and that-in-mind, this wee thing is 100% perfect. As ever, thanks for taking the time to look, please be free with any criticisms, questions or comments. AFN. Ian.
  11. I will be building a 1/48 AMT/ERTL F-7F 3N Tigercat. Pictures will follow later. Cheers,
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