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  1. I don't know if there is a record for the longest time taken to complete a kit, but this has taken me over ten years to get to the stage you see here. The late 1960s Chrysler Corporation "B-Body", mid-size cars are some of my favourite cars; I have various models of this family of vehicles. Off the top of my head there were the Dodge Coronet and Super Bee; Plymouth Belvedere, Satellite, Road Runner and GTX. Plymouth billed the GTX as the gentleman's muscle car, with luxury trim as well as powerful engines. I think I picked up this kit through ebay; I always wanted to take my time and do a good job but I think I may have taken it a bit too far! Here's the box: Let's see the progress so far: The body is painted and has had one clear coat (this is just a mock up of final assembly) the lacquer went on a bit thick in places so I'll do a fine rub down and give it another coat. You can build the kit with the bonnet fixed open or closed, I think the final build will have to fix it in place unless I can work out how to make it easily removable. I am quite pleased with how the engine looks, the kit comes with two complete engines and various carburettor options and the associated manifolds. I've gone for the 440-cubic inch "wedge head" engine with 6-barrel carburettor. You can also build the same engine with a four-barrel carburettor and the kit also comes with a complete 426 Hemi and two four-barrel carburettors (which I've built up and put in a safe place somewhere, i.e. I can't find it). The plan was always to build this with the 440-6 option. It's a pity the kit only comes with a representation of the four-speed manual gearbox as I'd prefer to build my dream GTX, which would be a 440 coupled to the three-speed automatic. I'm even pleased with how the engine bay turned out. If I do another of these I may try to wire up the plug leads and add more details. Test fit of the engine in the engine bay. Underside view, apparently Chrysler didn't bother with paint on the underside apart from overspray, so that's what I've tried to replicate here. The back axle had a plated cover for the differential (I'm sure that's not correct) and I'd previously started to scrape away the plating. I've also spotted that I glued the leaf springs on the wrong way around as the damper mountings should be inboard of the springs and the current location fouls the wheels/tyres. A little gentle but persistent finger pressure eventually separated the springs from the axle. I'll try oven cleaner to remove the plating. The interior tub is pretty much complete. I used to (back in my teenage years) hate/struggle with interiors but this one has turned out OK. The centre console seems to have come out quite well with a fake wood finish. OK that's the recap, stay tuned for the next installent.
  2. Revell 1:25 '68 Chevy Chevelle SS 396 I am obsessed with American car shows, Fast ‘n Loud with Gas Monkey garage being my favourite. Richard Rawlings scours the ‘Interweb’ for old classic cars and re-builds them or flips them for a few dollars profit. The ’68 Chevy SS would be a prime candidate for the monkeys to get their hands on, and when this 1:25 scale Chevy landed on the doormat I was very happy! The 68 Chevy SS, SS is for Super Sport is powered by an all American 6.5L (or 396 cubic inches) V8. The Chevelle SS is a popular muscle car, and many have been restored or modified by their owners worldwide. This is a new tool kit to represent this car. The body shell is a single part incorporating the doors and boot with only the bonnet needing adding separately. All the parts are crisp as expected and there isn’t any flash on the review sample. The kit is over 7 sprues, 5 in white plastic, a chrome sprue and a clear sprue. The rear lights are done in a clear red, and the final bits are 4 rubber tyres with tread detail. Colours are referenced to the Revell range and they are listed on the outside of the box so you can check what you will need before you leave the shop. The box is the flimsy end opening Revell box. The instructions start with the V8 and transmission, the block and ‘tranny’ is in two parts, with the heads and ancillary parts added. As the bonnet is separate you can add some plumbing and wiring to the engine. The distributor is included and can be drilled out and HT leads from the dizzy to the plugs would be a simple addition. The engine can be built as a unit and added later to the chassis frame. The frame is a separate part to the floor pan, and it looks like you could build the chassis, and suspension as a separate unit before adding to the floor and body. If you have watched some of these car shows, they often build the rolling chassis before adding the painted and detailed body. The interior is built into a tub, and it is nicely detailed. You can follow the blacks and greys on the instructions or go all out with the colours of seats and trim with a custom look. You have an option with the wheels, original spec, or optional style. The are on the chrome sprue, and as with other newer Revell kits the chrome is nice, and not too bright and toy like. The tyres have a red line on the side wall, and you can have this on the outside or inside to hide it. The body is finished with the chrome bumpers, and the grill with lights. The Bonnet has hinges so you can glue it shut, or have it working to show off the engine. There is a nice decal sheet and it includes the lap-style seat belts for the front seats, and the racing stripes to go over the body in a choice of white to go on a black car, or black for a red car. There are various badges and details for the body, interior and engine bay along with a choice of American Ohio state plates, and different European registrations for an imported car. A nice kit of a ‘compact’ American muscle car, can be done stock, or as a full custom build with a nice interior and paint job on the outside. Another quality model from Revell Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  3. Right, this summer seems to run with a speed provided by a high-revving small block backed up with a Muncie four speed and a positraction 12-bolt. I haven't touched a model kit for a few weeks as, well you know, the summer in Finland is short... I was astonished to see we are actually so far that even this GB begins! Now do I have a backlog, I sure do... But here's the Round2 model kits revamped AMT Camaro from my birth year, 1968. The kit dates originally even further, as it's based on a 1967 model year version that was just tweaked slightly, as was the actual Camaro too, from its introduction year model. You can't help noticing it's a '68, can't you? You have the choice of building her "stock" or... ...with "street machine features". I will build neither, I believe, sort of... Here's a peek at the plastic. I fell in love with the first gen Camaros ('67-'69) when I first met one. I was 13, I was vulnerable... V-P
  4. So, 1st share.... I started this in about 2003 at a guess and its been in a box since then! Was rather dusty and needed a gentle clean (only partially done so far). All brush painted (I primed the shell with spray and trying to decide how to best finish it....) From memory although detailed it didn't all fit together and needed lots of little tweaks (it was no tamiya kit!)...
  5. My second Ken Schraeder build - this time the 1990 Lumina wearing Fred Cady decals. Far from my best and not visible in the photos thankfully - somehow I forgot to park the shell under my usual ice cream carton 'drying bay' as the Johnsons Klear / Future was going-off, so the d*mn thing does have a lot of dust particles and it bugs the h*ll out of me. Thanks for taking the time to look and / or comment, please feel free to hurl any abuse, ask any questions or offer any comments. Already got the next non-NASCAR build on the bench stand by for that very soon. AFN Ian.
  6. Wandering around the bench just now. This is the AMT kit of the Chevy Lumina, it's molded in a pale brownish grey (not unlike RLM 02), so priming and painting is a breeze. The BIG difference between the AMT releases and the more usual Monogram / Revell NASCAR kits of the same period is the scale; 1:25 as opposed to the more usual 1:24. Hence when I apply the decals they may look a little 'out' but I'm pretty sure that I can live with that !! As you see it here, it's wearing just one coat of Tamiya TS-26, more will follow. More soon. Ian.
  7. Volkswagen Scirocco 1:25 kit from AMT Some of you may know but I’m a VW fan, having owned many different Vee-Dubs over the years, and still have a Mk1 Golf GTi in the garage for summer fun, and in my time 2 Sciroccos have passed through my hands. The Scirocco was a replacement for the Karmann Ghia coupe and was launched 6 months before the Golf so any teething problems could be sorted before the Golf hit the roads. Although it is biased on the Golfs platform (chassis) it was modified extensively to give a sportier ride, with its front mounted engines, with front wheel drive and sleek coupe body penned by Giorgetto Giugiaro. When I saw the re-issue of the old AMT Scirocco I was very excited, I’ve a stash of VW kits ready to build scale replicas of some of my favourite cars from my past so I could now add one of my ‘Roccos’ to the fleet! The AMT kit comes in the normal AMT style box with a lift off lid, and a box full of plastic. Most is moulded in a light grey plastic, with a clear single piece glazing part, and a chrome sprue, with all sprues being bagged individually. The body comes as a single part with the lower front and rear valances to be added and a separate bonnet. The body is a nice casting and it looks in proportion and the lines look good to my eye. The kit is an early Mk1, with US specification side markers, if you are building a European model these will need sanding off the shell and won’t be too hard to do. The car has the single wiper moulded on the shell and this helps date the car to a 1977 model to convert to an earlier version this can be sanded off and twin wipers added. Construction starts with the engine, slipping my VW anorak on, it looks like the 1.6l petrol engine with the 4 speed manual gearbox. The shape of the engine looks good and the parts are well detailed, a quick look online will bring up lots of pictures to help you add detail should you wish to show off the engine on your model. This kit can be built as either a stock ‘road’ car or as a race car with wide wheels, stripped interior roll cage and body kit. The instructions now split the road and race builds and your spares box will benefit from some left over parts. The car only has a left hand drive dashboard so for a British car some cutting and modification will be required here. The parts for the interior are well detailed with the door cards and rear interior being well done, and the interior tub has ‘rough’ casting to represent the carpets, and the seats are textured to mimic the stitching and pattern on the fabric. For the race car a multi-part roll cage needs making up and a deep race bucket seat is needed omitting the rear and passenger seat. Construction then moves onto the chassis, this is a single part and the underside has all the complex pressings and mouldings found on the 1:1, there is some flash present on the review sample that will need some work around the edges. Again there is optional parts between the race and road here, the race car has a straight through exhaust, exiting at the side, with a more conventional rear exit with silencer exhaust for the road. Construction now starts on the body, under the bonnet the firewall and internal wings are built up, I would glue this into the body before painting, along with the front and rear valances I would also glue the bonnet in place if you want the model closed. This is where the body kit is added if wanted, with 4 wide wheel arch extensions and a big front valance with air dam and spoiler. Finishing off your build are the wheels, some nice VW standard alloys or a big wide set of BBS race wheels topped off with some nice rubber tyres, there are 8 in the box 4 narrow ‘road’ tyres and 4 wide tyres, they all have nice side wall and tread detail. A single decal sheet has the stripes, race numbers sponsor logos and VW badges for the race car along with some ‘Scirocco’ dealer plates all nicely printed and sharply done. Conclusion. It’s great to see this kit back, it will fill a hole in my collection. With the crisp lines of the Scirocco captured and the option of road or race versions should make it more popular. Bad points, other than no right hand drive dashboard nothing! Review sample courtesy of UK distributors for
  8. G'day all, Is there an accessory out there which converts AMT's 1:25 Chev Monte Carlo from a 1970 model to a 71/72 by way of modification to the headlights?
  9. Not one of my best but not too shabby. The Revell kit straight from the box, painted with Tamiya aerosol 'metallic orange' which is a shoe-in for GM's Sunset Orange. After the paint I airbrushed three coats of Tamiya X22 'clear' then polished it all with Turtle Wax. Nice easy build and looks really nice on the shelf. Next car build is already on the bench - another NASCAR - not far behind are a couple of Tamiya GT types. As ever all questions, comments and criticism are welcome. Ian.
  10. Hello, It took six months to finish this kit. This is a nice one. Not as good as Tamiya; plastic is a little thick, clear parts are like armor glass, chrome parts have some flash, rear window has a big gap, etc. But all in all it is an enjoyable kit. I removed chrome and painted with Alclad, which is a lot better than the kit chromes. For the first time, I used BMF and it was very difficult especially around windows. I guess it would have been better if I had used alclad for the windows too. Thanks for viewing.. salih
  11. 'Surf Woody' custom car 1:25 kit from AMT Here we have something completely different, a scale model of a car built by George Barris of Barris Kustoms in the USA. If you don’t know the Barris name you probably know his work including the original Batmobile (from the 60s TV series) and many more film and TV vehicles. The ‘Surf Woody’ was created to carry a motorised surf board with its twin rear wheels to help it drive on the beach and with this kit you can build one of 3 versions, the Surf Woody, Surf Hearse or as a Street Rod. The kit comes in box and is packed with parts, most of the kit is moulded in a bright orange with a couple of chrome sprues and the clear parts, remember it is an old kit so there is flash on the parts, nothing that will take too much to trim and sand clean. In the box you get a nice booklet showing pictures of the real car, a nice touch as details on the real vehicles are sparse as the real one seems to have vanished into a garage or barn presently. The build starts with the much modified Ford Cobra engine and there is a lot of chrome parts, I will be stripping the chrome and redoing myself as the chrome looks a little ‘toy’ like and some parts will need joining, the seams dealing with. The engine is a typical customised engine with a couple of massive supercharges poking out of the bonnet (hood) and with some help from the booklet you could add some detail to the engine with some HT leads and other cables. The instructions now move on to the tubular chassis along with the axles and suspension with some nice fine parts that will make a well detailed unit, including the Mercedes rear axle system and the front beam type axle. There are differences here between the 3 vehicles so you will need to make a decision on the version your building. The wheels are also built up in this stage, they all have ‘astro’ style rims with big duel wheels for the Surf and Hearse Woodys the wheels finish with some rubber tyres with white rings on the wall, be careful here as 2 tyres have tread for the front wheels, and there are 4 slick tyres for the back axle that are slightly taller too. Read, look again, and check you have the correct parts for the version you are building as the instructions are not very clear. Section 3 splits in two, depending on what you build, firstly the Surf or Hearse woody, the seats are very unusual being ‘Airfoam’ seats, basically lots of narrow horizontal cushions on a shaped frame that in the real vehicle ‘rock in a wave like motion’ possibly not great if you get car sick! You also get the luxury of a Sony TV, car phone and a Muntz 6 speaker stereo with tape player, but oddly no steering wheel or column? The roadster has more conventional seats and a steering wheel! Both versions have a chrome fuel tank made from a 10-gallon beer keg behind the seats. The main body comes as a single moulded part in the same orange plastic, there are some strengthening bars that need removing, 2 at the back and one at the front, don’t remove the one closest to the front as this needs to stay. In the nose is a headlamp pod that is built up and sandwiched between the upper body and a lower nose, if you are careful this can be made to rotate between the clean nose, or to show the horizontal fluorescent tube headlamps. Now the 3 versions split on the instructions to finish the upper body, both the hearse and the woody have a box type body that has some large decals for the murals on the sides, with the roadster getting a flat rear deck and low windscreen. You get a clear sprue, and a second that has a retro orange tint, both are the same so you can choose to suit your build. Both look to a scale thickness and they are bagged separately to save them from getting scratched in the box. A decals sheet is included and is well printed it includes some nice surfer murals for the surf woody, with some wood effect decals for the outside of the body, and other details and scrolls for the bodywork. The sheet gives details of where each decal should go, but take your time as some will need to be applied before putting the parts together, study the construction sequence again before making a start on this build. In the box you get a stand/ backdrop for your finished model, this comes flat and will need folding and sticking together to get the best from it, mine is just temporarily held for the photo. Conclusion Now this is something completely different, straight from the mind of George Barris, onto your model bench! Not the most straight forward instructions I’ve seen, so go through the option you want to build, and make a plan of action! One for someone who likes something unusual! Review sample courtesy of UK distributors for
  12. Built in a little over three weeks from opening the box. That isn't me showing-off, it's simply a reflection on how well this wee kit goes together and how much I enjoy the subject - Hey it's a first generation Firebird, what's not to love !! Enough words, here's some photos: Thanks for taking the time to look and/or comment. As ever all criticism, comments and questions are welcome. Next, a refurb... Jeremy Mayfields' '98 Taurus. Ian.
  13. Kit - 1:25 AMT/Ertl Paint - Body & chassis, Tamiya acrylic. Engine & details, Tamiya, Humbrol & Xtracolour enamels. Decals - Kit. Extras - None This was started in November 2012 and sent to the 'Shelf of Forgetfulness' when I scr*w*d-up the soft edge demarcation between the red/yellow and white on the nose, and it stayed there until three weeks ago after a chat about car modelling in general and NASCAR modelling in particular between a few of us on another (US based) site. Well here it is three weeks after that exchange and I'm quite pleased with the result. Make no mistake, this was always going to be a 'cabinet sitter', it'll never see a competition table and the nearest model club is an hours' flight away. No, this is my way to re-learn those very particular skills needed for NASCAR kits, and that-in-mind, this wee thing is 100% perfect. As ever, thanks for taking the time to look, please be free with any criticisms, questions or comments. AFN. Ian.
  14. Batmobile Tumbler Moebius Models 1:25 Before commencing this review I have to confess that I am of a generation many of whom still think of the Batmobile as a customised Lincoln Futura. My interest in the first round of updated Batman movies from Tim Burton was far more focussed on Michelle Pfeiffer’s catsuit than it was on the various vehicles involved, it was all just a bit too gothic for my tastes. Joel Schumacher’s hideously camp interpretation then managed to put me off the franchise completely, so I had until very recently ignored the latest round of films from Christopher Nolan.....That, as it turns out, was a bit of a mistake! So, while I cannot even pretend to be an ardent Batman fan, I really do like model kits, especially kits of armoured vehicles, which it seems is precisely what the current incarnation of the Batmobile is at its core. The new Batmobile (the vehicle is never called by that name in the films, but apparently it was referred to as such in the scripts) makes its first appearance in Batman Begins (2005), as the Tumbler, a slightly wacky prototype AEV designed to leap over linear obstacles at a single bound.....Which is as good an excuse as any to fit a flame nozzle at the back IMHO, a nice homage to the Lincoln of my youth. With the exception of this little touch, the current incarnation of the Batmobile owes just about nothing to the various rather glamorous designs that have come before it, this latest version appears to have been influenced much more by the F-117 than any previous Batmobile, or indeed car. It’s a brutal re-imagining very much in keeping with the darker nature of the Nolan movies, apparently the design brief was summed up as ‘A Lamborghini crossed with a tank’.....I reckon they pulled it off rather well! In The Dark Knight (2008) the vehicle almost plays a cameo role, putting in a couple of very dramatic appearances, before ultimately meeting its demise at the hands of an RPG armed Joker, spawning the Batpod motorcycle in the process. An up-gunned version of the original military design puts in another appearance in The Dark Knight Rises (2012) this time in the hands of the bad guys.....All in all it’s a very cool vehicle, a silly idea for an AEV, but just the thing for cruising around the streets of Gotham raising hell. It’s also just the sort of thing that’s begging to be made available as a kit.....Enter Moebius Models! The Kit The first thing to strike me about the Moebius kit once I’d rescued it from a veritable sea of packing peanuts, wasn’t the actually rather striking graphics, it was the sheer density of the thing. With my AFV kits I’ve become quite used to finding a few small sprues rattling around within the oversized packaging.....There’s absolutely none of that here! The compact tray and lid box is quite literally crammed with sprues, it actually bulges slightly when it’s full and the sheer amount of ‘stuff’ that comes out of it is very impressive, to me at least.....Within, we find a sixteen page colour instruction booklet, one bag containing six vinyl type tyres and a sturdy metal axle for the rear wheels, a second with a single transparent plastic sprue and six more bags that hold the main parts of the kit on fourteen sprues of black plastic. Moebius may have taken a step too far in the direction of authenticity with these mouldings, as the black plastic definitely seems to display some ‘Stealth’ characteristics, especially when you are trying to focus a camera on it! The instruction booklet is very comprehensive, offering detailed construction information as both easy to follow text and rather elegant drawings. Construction is broken down into ten numbered sections, each with several steps identified by letter. Section 1 details the assembly of the cockpit, with Step 1A being the assembly of the seats, progressing logically through to Step 1G the final assembly of all the cockpit components. Detail in the cockpit looks pretty good right out of the box, but I suspect hardcore modellers may feel the need to add a little more. I was somewhat surprised and a little disappointed not to find decals for the various instruments and displays, while the painting guide offers some generic advice, decals would look much better. I was also just a little sad not to find The Dark Knight himself in figure form. It appears that the model was intended to have a figure, as only one set of seatbelts is included for the passenger seat.....I strongly suspect the various after-market companies will fill these gaps quite promptly, if they haven’t done so already, but it would have been nice to have had the option to put Batman at the wheel OOTB. Construction moves on with the tub in Section 2, the front wheels & suspension are assembled in in Sections 3 & 4, with the rear wheels, suspension and transmission taking up Sections 5 & 6.....I’ve learnt to treat Vinyl tyres with some caution in AFV kits, but they seem to be the norm in vehicle kits, so I can only assume Moebius know what they are doing and that ‘Track-Melt’ won’t be an issue here. Sections 7, 8 & 9 primarily comprise adding the transparencies and armour panels to the hull, with Section 10 rounding off construction with a couple more panels and the various ‘aerodynamic’ parts. Moulding quality looks reasonably good, with no evidence of short-shot parts or overly prominent mould seams and although some flash is present on quite a few of the sprues, none of it should prove more than an inconvenience. The sprue-gates are of a reasonable size even on the finer parts and the ejector pins generally appear to have been sensibly placed so that they should not be visible once each sub-assembly is finished, however there are three that will need removing from each shock-absorber mount (Parts 25 & 26) and the back wall of the cockpit (Part 12) will also need some work. I have only discovered one or two very minor sink-marks, the most prominent example is to be found on the cockpit extension (part 20) but again, it won’t be at all difficult to deal with. I also noticed a minor but irritating mould defect on one of the rear lower panels (Part 32), it’s located on a mesh grille, but it’s not terribly prominent and if you are likely to be bothered by such things I suspect there’s a good chance you will be replacing the plastic mesh anyway. Other than these small issues, the details look pretty good, they’re definitely a little softer than some of the very newest of the new kits, but are still quite acceptable in my opinion. One or two of the larger parts have some quite finely cast detail appended to them, which might not always survive too well in such a tightly packed box, especially given multiple sprues per bag, although my example appears to have got through unscathed. The clear parts look to be just that, perhaps a little thick compared to an aircraft canopy, but they are supposed to be heavily armoured, so that really isn’t a problem at all. Two pages of the instructions are dedicated to the painting guide, very simply presented in the form of two labelled full colour photos of an assembled and painted cockpit tub and four more of a completed Batmobile. These provide generic colour references (black being prominent among them) and should be quite sufficient for most casual modellers, those who would want more can easily find stills from the film online. While the instructions are really very nicely done and might at first glance appear idiot-proof, these things seldom are and courtesy of fellow Britmodellers a couple of of errors and minor construction difficulties have come to light: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234951690-125-batman-tumbler/?hl=%2Bbatman+%2Btumbler http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234951883-moebius-batman-tumbler/?hl=%2Bbatman+%2Btumbler It also seems that at least some of these kits may have issues with mould release agent remaining on the parts, the review example doesn’t appear too bad (although I haven’t tried painting it) and a good scrub in soapy water prior to assembly should solve this problem in most instances. Conclusions Normally when reviewing a kit I would base my conclusions at least in part on how a particular model compares to the competition, taking into account relative price, quantity and detail of parts, decals and so on.....Of course with a subject like this, such comparison isn’t possible. So is it good value? Well this is certainly not a cheap kit, but it is the only option I’m aware of in plastic and the price falls well within the typical range for Sci-Fi models of this size & complexity. For your money you get a nicely presented and very full box. The quality of the parts within is by and large quite acceptable for a kit of this scale, although definitely not ‘state of the art’. I personally find the lack of decals and a Batman figure for the cockpit slightly irritating, especially given that it appears that the kit was originally intended to contain a figure. These minor gripes aside, the kit should build into a satisfactory model of the Tumbler OOTB with just a little effort and it will certainly provide an excellent platform for super-detailing if that is your thing.....So it all really depends on just how much you want to own a Tumbler! Sincere thanks to BM member Will Vale for providing backup photos. Review sample courtesy of UK distributors for
  15. Hi Everyone, Here is my completed build of the Ghosbusters Ecto 1A by AMT in 1:25 scale. I am dedicating this build to Harold Ramis who died this year. RIP Harold, you were a great Ghosbuster. Anyway onto the photos. Comments welcome. Thanks for looking. Rick
  16. Ferrari 250 GTO 1:24 Revell plastic kit The Ferrari 250 GTO was developed as a homogenisation car for Ferrari to enter the FIA group 3 GT car category, built between 1962-64 the GTO means Gran Turismo Omologata in Italian, or Grand Turismo Homologated in English, only 39 where built. The Tubular chassis holds the 3l V12 engine up front, driving the rear wheels through a 5 speed manual gear box. The car carries a Berlinetta style body, (Italian for sporty couple) that was designed using a wind tunnel and track testing; it was unusual in not being designed by a design house or an individual person. The 250GTO has become a big collector’s car, with only 39 genuine examples being build the demand is high, driving prices well into the millions, with one belonging to Sir Sterling Moss selling for $35million in 2012 Revell have given us a Ferrari 250GTO in 1:24, giving the option of chassis Number 3757 in its Le Mans 1962 colours, or later while owned by Nick Mason or a silver car, chassis 3851 as raced by Henri Orellier at Montlery in 1962. Construction kicks off with the engine, it’s a copy of the 3 Colombol V12 from the Testa Rossa with the engine being made from a number of parts, the block is in 2 parts with ancillary parts being added to it. I will take time to look at reference photos to get the parts painted and detailed nicely. The tubular chassis come cast as a big part, but take care my example has broken with one of the front rails breaking, The rear axle sits on leaf springs and you will need to get the drill out to open up some holes to fit it together, don’t glue the axle between the springs and this will help you line up the axle, prop shaft and engine later in the build. The front A frame suspension is added and here you need to add the real metal springs, and it’s held together with some small screws, careful application of glue should allow the suspension at the front to work but I wouldn’t be too heavy handed trying it out! The interior come next and the parts copy the real cars interior well, looking at the instructions you can build the body, engine, chassis, and interior separately, and paint them before bringing them together for final assembly. The body comes moulded as a single part, with the various doors separate. The shape looks good to the pictures I’ve seen and it captures the shapes and lines of the 250GTO nicely to my eye. There is a big mould sprue in the windscreen aperture that needs removing and you will need to be careful not to damage the body when chopping it out. The doors, bonnet and boot parts come on the next sprue, this looks well moulded and a quick dry run shows the parts are a good fit into the shell. They all have hinges to allow you to pose them open or closed on your build. The lower front valance is also a separate part, and looking it should be OK to glue this on before adding the chassis and interior which is good as the fit on a dry test isn’t great and will need some sanding and filling to erase the join, I will do this before painting the shell. You get two chrome sprues in the kit the first shown above contains details and parts for the body. I feel my review sample is a little heavy on the chrome and I will strip this and re-paint on my build. The second sprue contains parts for the Borrani wire wheels, each wheel is made up from 3 parts the wheels look nicely done and the parts look to be nice and in scale when built up, again I’m not sure on the chrome finish and I think I’ll strip the chrome and re-paint it for a better finish. Please note there are 4 parts that aren’t needed for this build on this sprue. There are 4 rubber tyres, I feel the detail is a little heavy on the side walls, but should be OK after a rub with some sand paper to weather them down a bit; the tread detail is nice though and again after a rub over will be great. There is a clear sprue in the box; it is bagged separately to protect it from scratching, with the parts not being too thick to spoil the look of the model. There is a nice decal sheet that will allow you to build one of 3 cars as mentioned above. Looking at pictures on the net they look correct. They are well printed and the colours look good and they should cover well. Conclusion This is a nice model of a very sexy car! I look forward to seeing this model on my bench. There is a variety of aftermarket bits and bobs to enhance your build should you want to, but it is well detailed out of the box. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
  17. Hi Everyone, As my Shelby GT500 project is close to completion, I will be making a start on this kit in a couple of days time. As the kit includes decals for the Ecto-1 and Ecto-1A, I have decided that I will be building this kit as the Ecto-1A from Ghosbusters 2. Anyway here are the sprues. I have just noticed that the interior body section is missing from my photos. Thanks for looking, I will be posting the first WIP shots in a couple of days. Rick
  18. Hi Everyone, Here is my next project : Revell 1/25 Shelby GT500 Normally this kit is painted in Ferrari Red with Black decals, White with Blue decals or Brown/Steel mix with White decals. I am not doing any of these colour schemes. I am going with a Gloss Black body with the Blue decals from the kit. All of the chrome accent parts are going to be used. This is my dream car, so I am doing it as a custom build for me. Anyway here are the sprue shots. I have aready started painting the engine components so will be starting assembly of the engine components later and then its onto the chassis etc. Photos tomorrow. Thanks for looking, Rick
  19. Hi Everyone, I have been looking at the AMT 1:25 scale Ghostbusters Ecto 1A kit for a while now (since I saw several builds on here) and was wondering how many people amongst the members have built it and if it could be considered a challenge to build as it doesn't have many parts ? Thanks, Rick
  20. Revell Mercedes 1628s Truck 1:25 The Mercedes 1628s is a 22ton tractor unit manufactured between 1973 and 1988 and was a popular truck worldwide, the Revell kit is a day cab 2 axle tractor unit, with the Mercedes 280bhp V8 engine. The 1628 was available as a tractor or a rigid truck so there are lots of options to convert the base kit. The kit comes over 4 main sprues cast in a light grey. Being an older kit there is some flash on the parts but nothing that needs more than a quick pass with a knife and a sanding stick. The parts are well done, and have some very nice detail on them. Construction kicks off with the multi part chassis, the 2 rails are joined with a large casting that has 4 cross members cast in place, take care when removing this from the sprue, and cleaning this up as it will help keep your chassis straight and true. 3 more cross members are also added before you can add the springs and the 2 axles to your chassis. Extra parts like the anti-roll bars and shock absorbers are also glued into place. The front axle is a fixed part so the wheels can’t be displaced turned without some work but it does give a stronger part. The engine is made up from multiple parts and gives a well detailed engine block, of course you can add some wiring and pipes as the cab can be tilted to show it off. Looking at the instructions you should be able to build and paint the chassis and engine separately adding it late in the build. The wheels look like nice casting, copying the real parts nicely, whereas other kits have a generic wheel, looking at the parts there is a hole in the rear hubs that may need filling but I will see when I build this shortly. There are 6 nice rubber tyres with good sidewall and tread details, some of the nicest truck tyres I have seen. Once you have a rolling chassis you can move onto the cab, the interior is made from multiple parts and they are well detailed. Paining instructions are referenced back to the Revell paint codes with the colours being very 80’swith various browns over more modern greys. There are decals to give the checked effect on the seats and door cards. The truck is of course Left hand Drive but it would be a simple conversion to swap the parts over both in the cab and on the chassis. The cab shell come as a single part and captures the shapes of the cab very well, with the various pressings and panel lines being in scale. There is again a little flash but nothing that will cause a headache to even the most novice modeller. There is a clear sprue that includes most of the cab glazing, only missing the door windows but it wouldn’t take much to create these from some clear plastic sheet. Lenses are included for the lights and some clear red and orange will be needed, the lenses are detailed with engraved lined to separate the red and amber areas. Check you references for the exact layout as it could vary. There is a decal sheet that contains the seat and door card pattern I mentioned earlier in the build, also included are a set of Mercedes cab stripes as applied in the factory and some model badges for the exterior of the cab. Some decals are also included for the clocks on the dashboard and they look well detailed. A variety of registration plates are also included, the UK ones give a late 1980, early 1981 vehicle that would fit with the era (a Leicester registered truck) the decals are as expected from Revell, well printed with good fine decals. Conclusion A welcome re-issue of an older Revell kit. It will be a popular kit as a basis for conversions. Lets hope Revell re-issue some more versions of this (Race Truck PLEASE!!!!!!!!) A build review will follow shortly as I already have a build in mind! Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
  21. So here is the finished 1:25 scale model of the Centurion mk.III British main battle tank. It has been built out of the box with no extras, apart from the camouflage netting around the barrel which I made myself. The paints used were as follows: Primer was Vallejo grey polyurethane acrylic. This was also used for all of the interior surfaces. It gives a lovely smooth and resilient surface for the following paints. The main overall colour was Tamiya Dark Yellow Matt XF-60. This was mixed about 40% paint with 60% Tamiya X-20 thinner. Panel line preshading was done with Tamiya XF-1 Matt Black and overhead light simulation presahding was done with Tamiya XF-64 Red Brown. Some weathering effects and shadow areas were done with Tamiya XF-49 Khaki. The matt finish was thinned Vallejo matt varnish. Chipping was hand painted with MrMetalColor MC24 Dark Iron. Exhaust and metal tool parts were also airbrushed with this paint as were the tracks and tow cables. Weathering and rusting was done with a combination of Rust and Sand pigments. Various Tamiya weathering master sets for were used for streaking, rusting and staining effects. Lighter colours from these sets were used for edge highlighting. Once the track pieces were buffed where the wheels ran and also where the locating lugs rubbed between the wheels, the pieces received a dunking in first rust, then sand pigments, with a good brush scrubbing between the two. The exhaust parts were treated in the same way. Although this was an old kit that I picked up from ebay for £30ukp, it went together reasonably well. There were plenty of moulding lines that needed scraping off before painting and the instructions had a couple of anomalies. The old decals were very yellow, so the markings for my choice of variant were spayed using a template that I cut out with a laser cutter, from a CAD drawing that I made. I learnt a lot from trying various weathering methods on this build and thoroughly enjoyed myself. As usual, and observations or comments are welcome. Enjoy the images.
  22. Dodge L-700 Tractor Unit with Chrome tanker or Box Van Trailer 1:25 Plastic kit from Lindberg Models The Dodge L700 is a medium duty truck manufactured by Dodge trucks in the USA using components from there A100 light duty trucks. The L-700 was available with either a Dodge, or Cummins V8 engine. The L-700 had a smaller sibling , the L-600, that was outwardly similar but designed to pull smaller weights, this had the option of straight 6 diesel of a V8 Gas engine. The Dodge L-700 was available as a tractor with a very short 89inch wheelbase, and a steering angle of 50o for great manoeuvrability in towns and cities, where this truck was designed to live and work. The L-700, and L-600 could also be specified with a longer rigid chassis up to 192inch wheelbase and the Dodge had various bodies, and pulled a variety of trailers. Lindberg have now re-issued the Dodge L-700 in 1:25, this is an old kit but a welcome re-issue.A couple of versions of this kit have arrived on the review bench and as they are very similar I will start by looking at the cab and tractor as they are the same in both boxes. The cab comes as a single part cast in white plastic, the doors are separate to the shell to allow them to be posed open. The cab has some reinforcing bars cast across the door apertures to help the cab hold its shape, take care when removing so not to damage the frame, the cab is nicely done and captures the complex shapes on the cab. The doors are moulded on a different sprue, and they have separate interior door cards. A quick check shows them to be an OK fit, will need some work but I don’t think it will be too hard to get them in and straight. The parts on both kits are nicely cast with very little flash anywhere. I will guess Lindberg have cleaned up the moulds for this re-issue. The interior and floor are cast with the big wheel arches, there is some nice engraved detail on the cab floor showing the rubber footwall covering and some rivet detail on the cab floor and wheel arches. There is no detail on the underside and this is a shame as the Dodge L-700 is a tilt-cab, and on this kit the cab can be tilted to show off the V8 engine. No doubt the detailers will go to town here, Ill add some foil for the heat and noise shields and a few wires and cables under here. The cab interior parts include the basic dashboard as found in this truck, there isn’t allot of detail on the part but in reality the real truck is basic, there are 3 seats that have some nice engraved detail to simulate the stitching in the covers. Some careful painting will bring the interior to life, and I would add some scale cab junk to be viewed through the big windows. Also found on this sprue is the engine parts. This is a small V8 diesel engine, the truck had the option of 2 engines and I’m not sure what is depicted in the kit, but a quick search will pop up some images of either engine to allow you to detail and paint the parts to depict your choice of power. The parts are well moulded with a fair amount of detail on the parts, some extra cables and wires will bring it to life when painted. Also seen in the sprues above is the rear axle, the Dodge has a choice of a single or 2 speed axle, and my guess is a twin speed example is tooled on this build again there is good detail with the rough cast housing and some bolt details on the parts. The chassis is made up from 2 rails that look very short for a tractor unit in this scale, but a quick calculation and looking at side on shots of the real deal on the net show them to be correct as it is a very stubby tractor, and I guess this makes it more use in an urban setting. The chassis is made up from the 2 rails and 5 cross members so you will need to take care to get it all straight and true so you build isn’t twisted. The truck is suspended on 4 multi-leaf springs and 2 axles, the two speed rear axle is described above, and the front axle that is supplied can be build working so move the steering lock. Personally I pose the wheels turned a bit then glue solid for strength. Fuel tanks, air tanks and the exhaust are in 2 parts each so will need gluing sanding and filling before painting and adding to the chassis. A pair of large rear spray flaps is included, they are quite thick and have the IPC logo cast on the parts so I will remove them from the mounting and replace with some thin plastic painted black. The wheels are the trilex style, popular at the time in the States, and they have nice detail on the parts with some bolts in the appropriate places. Also on this sprue is the internal door cards for the cab, again basic as is the real truck with some winder handles for the opening door windows and rivet detail on the parts. There is a clear sprue for the cab glass and lights, they are packed in their own bags and don’t look too thick. A small chrome sprue covers the shiny bits for the cab, the bowls for the headlamps come on this chrome sprue and they include the bezels for the lamps and these are a big feature on the Dodge cab. The cabs bumper is also chromed along with the regulation cab roof marker lights along with wipers, and handles for the cab outside. The chrome is nice and not too heavy but along with many others Ill strip and re-do this anyway. A bag of rubber tyres are enclosed, 14 are included for the tractor and trailer. There is some flash on the tyres that will need a swipe with a knife or sandpaper, nothing too major though. The detail is nice, I would say a little heavy on the sidewalls but as I rub the rubber with some sandpaper to dull and weather it a bit and I’m sure this will subdue this. This now concludes the parts for the tractor units for both kits as I said you get all the above plastic in both boxing. I will now look at the trailer parts from the two kits. Trailer parts Chassis The chassis and running gear is also the same in both kits, both trailers run on two axles sitting on multi-leaf springs. The tanker version does have some basic detail on how to convert to a single axle trailer, but as I said this is basic detail and not complete! The parts are again cast in white plastic and there is some minor flash on some of the parts, You start by making a small chassis frame that holds the suspension and axles. A single air tank need gluing together and adding before the suspension and axles. I would pop some wire in to simulate the airlines for the braking system, and also some cables for the electrical wiring on the trailer. The axles include the hobs and brake chambers, I’d drill and plumb these to the air tank to give extra detail on these parts. The wheels are the trilex style to match the tractor unit with the same rubber tyres shown above. You have optional long or short landing legs so you can hook it to your tractor (short legs) or have it as a solo model (Long legs) Tanker The first trailer I will look at is the chrome tanker, this can be built as the long version shown on the box, or a shorter single axle version. As I said the instructions on how to achieve this is sporadic and you will need to take care and take your time if doing this conversion. The tank comes in 4 main parts, 2 upper and two lower with a joint both horizontally along the tank, and vertically in the centre. The parts are designed to hide this with overlaps on the parts. To build a short tank you need to forward upper and lower parts and in the upper section you need to cut a hole for the manhole, this is shown on the underside with an engraved circle to follow with your knife. There is a lot of chrome with the rear locker, hose lockers and ladders all being chrome. It wouldn’t be hard to strip and re-paint either as a lower spec painted trailer of using your choice of chrome paints. Box Trailer. The second trailer on the review bench is a box van style. This is very 70s in style with its vertical beading on the side walls and the twin axle design. The body is supported by the same chassis and running gear as seen above on the tanker so I won’t go over this again. The body is split across the middle with the roof, floor and sides split needing a centre support part. You start by building the chassis and running gear, adding these to the 2 floor parts to create a flat bed, there is some basic detail on the floor, and if you add a small headboard you could leave it as an open flat trailer. The rear doors and frame is build next, the doors and be left to swing on the hinges if wanted to allow you to open and close them to show the inside of the trailer. The sides, back door section and front bulkhead are then added to the floor using the central support to hide and reinforce the joints, take care to keep it square and straight before adding the two roof sections. In this kit you get a couple of scale wood pallets for the load, they come in a light brown and are made up from slats of plastic glued together, painted and weathered they will look good with their fine engrave wood grain surface. You don’t need to worry about making them too square or straight either! A small decal sheet includes some logos for the box van, the Lindberg logo for the two sides and rear along with some US flag and the ‘Made in the USA’ legend under the flags. Conclusion A very welcome re-issue of some classic kits, they will need some work to get tighter being older mouldings, but them where a popular little truck and this can be converted to other L-700s and even the smaller L-600 trucks. Look forward to getting it on the build bench. UK distributors for
  23. Peterbilt 359 truck 1:25 Revell Injection Moulded kit The Peterbilt 359 is just what you would expect from an American truck with its big hood and lots of shiny chrome. The Peterbilt 359 was manufactured by Peterbilt trucks in the USA with the first rolling off the production line in 1967, lasting through till 1987 when a final 359s where produced as a special edition with numbered plaques. The 359, also called the 259 (Peterbilt model numbers typically start with a 2 for a single drive axle, and a 3 for double drive), had various upgrades and enhancements during its production run and the kit made here by Revell is a late model with the fibreglass hood, and the Corvette dashboard. Behind the cab is a typical sleeper box, this looks to me to be a Mercury 63 sleeper with a raised roof and full height walk through from the drivers cab. Construction starts with the chassis frame, this is made up from 2 rails joined with 4 cross members and a large frame that needs to be made up from 2 parts, upper and lower, that located between the rear suspension mountings. Some of the cross members are joined to the sprue by the ends so will need careful removal and cleaning up to ensure a square chassis. The rear suspension links are moulded onto the chassis, great if you are building a truck with this wheel base and axle spread, but a bit of a pain to remove and clean up if you are doing something different. The detail is very good on the parts and with them being attached will ensure the axles run true and square. The front springs are added and the front cab mounts in the next stop along with a substantial front cross member. There is a pair of large air tanks to build and as normal they are in 2 parts each so take care to minimise the amount of sanding you will have to do to erase the join. I will recommend you do this before gluing them along the chassis. Lastly you can add the rear suspension airbag halves and the trailing arms before popping the chassis to one side so you can crack on with the engine. The engine block come in 2 halves, and I guess its biased on the Cummins engine that you could choose to pull you Peterbilt along with as there is a Cummins logo on the decal sheet! The engine looks good and has a good level of detail on the parts. Various ancillary bits glue onto the main block before its added to the chassis. Personally I will skip through some steps and complete my chassis with the axles and other bits so it can be painted before adding the engine. The kit includes some wire and vinyl hose to plumb your engine in a bit and this is very welcome, I will add more to my build but the inclusion of this is very welcome. The completed engine can be dropped into the chassis, as I said I will complete, detail and paint my chassis before adding the completed, painted and detailed engine, with the radiator being assembled, and dropped into place with some hoses to join it to the engine. Below is the reverse of the sprue shown above The cab and hood come joined by some thick sprue gates, take care not to damage the parts when separating them, the level of detail on the parts is very nice with some subtle rivets and other detail on the parts and the shape is well captured of the cab and hood. There are some mould lines in difficult places to try and sand out and it will be hard not to damage the surface details. The cab has separate doors that can be made to open and close with some hinges in the kit, the doors have a separate inner door panel with nice detail (shown above with the engine parts) and the hood needs the wheel arches adding. This will be useful if you build has different colour wings to hood! The inside of the cab is well detailed with the 2 seats having seat suspension detail and seat belts moulded onto the base. The Corvette dashboard has separate insets of the clocks and switches. You have the option to detail the engraved and raised details or sand it flush and use decals. The floor has the rear wall adding, before it is slid into the shell with the seats and dash being added through the open door apertures before hanging the doors on the plastic hinges. The sleeper is made up from 6 parts, with some very good detail inside and out with rivet and door detail on the outside and nice quilted fabric inside the sleeper box. There is a big wide bed with a nicely moulded pillow and bedding that will come to life with some good painting. Its a shame it will be hidden away but you could leave the roof loose so it can be lifted away to view the detail. Now comes the chrome, its an American rig and as such there are 2 large shiny sprues in the kit. The chrome is nicely done on the review sample, not being too thick and it allows the detail of the plastic come through. There are some parts that need gluing together, like the fuel tanks and exhausts so the will be some visible joins so you may want to strip the chrome, build and re-paint some bits. The big Peterbilt 3 bar grill is nice, and a dark wash will give the grill depth. You get a bag with 10 rubber tyres, the detail look OK, with sidewall and tread detail but to my eye they done look right as the tread looks too narrow for the width of the tyre with a big stepped shoulder. I hope the picture shows better what I mean here! There is a small decal sheet that has some data and signs for the truck, along with various Peterbilt badges and logos. There is some operator livery for a David Webb Trucking, a look on the net has found a David Webb Trucking but I cant confirm if this decal is based on fact, if anyone has photos of the real truck please Id like to see them! A couple of eagle decals complete the sheet to fit on the side of the sleeper and on the roof mounted aerofoil. Conclusion This is a nice kit of a popular typical American truck. Will be a cracking OOB build, but can also be a base for many conversions. A welcome return! Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
  24. International ProStar Truck. 1:25 Injection Moulded kit from Revell The International ProStar truck is manufactured by International Truck Company in North America, it was launched in 2006 and remains in production today being built at two plants, one in Springfield Ohio and a second plant in Mexico. The ProStar comes with a choice of cab sizes, from a regional Day cab unit, to the big 73 sleeper cab with the high skyline roof add to that a host of engine, axle and transmission options this allows owners and operators to specify the correct truck for job. ProStar was given the title of Most Fuel efficient truck in the class 8 sector. This was due to the weight saving design and the aerodynamic cab and hood To celebrate the ProStar was given some upgrades and refinements including a quieter cab with more storage and some of the switch gear was redesigned. This new ProStar+ is the version kitted by Revell with the long 73 sleeper cab with the high roof, the kit includes an aerodynamic fairing for the roof that gives the look of a higher cab, and on the 1:1 helps the truck's aerodynamics when hooked to a reefer (refrigerator) trailer. The kit comes in a large box and when you take the lid off it is full of plastic with all the parts bagged together in a big bag and the individual sprues and parts in their own bags inside. The chrome sprues (it wouldn't be an American rig with no chrome) are bagged and protected with some tissue paper. There are a lot of surplus parts in the kit, which is due to some sprues being carried over from the ProStar sister truck the Lonestar, but there are a lot of differences between the two kits when you look deeper. There are 15 sprues, one being a clear sprue, 3 chromed, and the cab is a single part similar to the LoneStar kit, plus a bag of rubber tyres and an etched grill. Construction kicks off with the truck's 13 litre, 500bhp MaxxForce engine, and the engine block comes in 2 main halves with the Fuller gearbox moulded into it. They fit together with a plate on the back of the gearbox and a locating hole for the prop shaft at the rear, with an oil sump to the base. The level of detail on the engine is very good with the shape of the engine and transmisson being well captured. Assembly of the engine covers the first 12 stages of the build, where there is some very nice detail on the engine, but as always it would benefit form some added details with some thin wire for the wiring harness, and some brass wire for the injector pipes. A look on the net will throw up some pictures of engines to assist you there. The engine is painted in a nice pale metallic blue, this is correct according to the pictures I have seen. Various other parts will need painting so do your research as it will be easier to paint some of the filters and pipes on the sprue. You can then pop the completed engine to one side and make a start on the chassis frame. The chassis is built up from 2 main rails and cross members to give a detailed chassis, and the rails are allot shorter than the ProStar sister truck but have been tooled for this truck so no cutting or shortening of the rails is needed. When building the chassis you will need to take care to keep the chassis true and square. The rear suspension is then added to the chassis, this truck is a 6x4 and as such has a double drive, (twin rear driven axles) and the rear rides on 2 bag air suspension. You have to make up 4 airbags and they are all in 2 parts so some sanding will be needed to lose the joint. When attaching the airbags to the chassis be careful that you glue them on the right way and this is shown in the instructions. The rear suspension mounts can then be added along with the shock absorbers. The axles are tackled next, the rear axles are in 2 halves and need brake back plates and actuators adding, and here some wire can added from the spares box if wanted to simulate the air lines to the brakes. The front axle can then be built and this can be made with working steering if you are careful with the glue. The instructions recommend using the tip of a heated screwdriver to melt the pins slightly to allow them to swivel. Obviously take care here with flames and hot tools! Now would be the time to think about painting you chassis, I would check forward in the instructions to see if there are any other parts that will end up the same colour, so you can add them before spraying the chassis. Now comes the expected chrome. The fuel tanks need to be built up, which comprise two big tanks that sit either side of the chassis under the cab. These come in two halves each and are chromed. Some may want to strip them and re-paint with some Alclad or similar, but when the side skirts are added later in the build they are hidden anyway. The wheels are also built up now and each of the 10 wheels comes in 2 parts. As they are chromed you will need to remove the chrome from the surfaces that need gluing, with the tyres being sandwiched between the halves. The tyres are moulded in black rubber which have nice tread detail, and some detail on the sidewall, but as this is only on one side of the tyre you will need to make sure this will be facing out on your completed truck. The truck's hood is built up next; the main hood is a single moulding and is nicely done, capturing the shape of the truck nicely to my eye. The hood needs the hinges adding to the inside and the chromed headlight bezels gluing in from the underside also. On the ProStar when the hood tilts, the bumper also tilts via some complex hinges, and this has been recreated on the kit, looking like it should be easy to make functional. I will be building this kit shortly so I will report back in a build review at a later date. The Chrome grill fixes to the hood and is shown above on the chrome sprue, and the kit includes an etched metal part to fit between the hood and the grill. This is pre-painted in a silky matt finish and as such is ready to use. Personally I wouldn't add this until the hood has been painted. There are a pair of chromed exhaust stacks to fit behind the cab, but they are in two parts each and as such will have a join that will need covering. I would strip the chrome, glue and sand the parts before re-chroming with some suitable metallic paint, but some may want to use some polished metal tubes or aftermarket metal parts that are available. The cab and sleeper interior come next and the instructions suggest you start with the driver and passenger seats. Each is nicely detailed and look like the real seats, needing a rear part gluing on before the two part base is built and added. The detail is nice with a seatbelt clip on the base, but the armrests are moulded as part of the seat. Id like to see this separate to allow them to be posed up or down, but that may be a bit nit-picking on my part though. The dash is build next and is nicely detailed with the various switches and vents moulded onto the surface. You may want to carefully paint this or sand it off so you can use the kit decal or some aftermarket etched parts. I would have a look on the internet before painting as the ProStar is available in numerous colours and styles and of course drivers have customised their rigs! The rest of the interior can then be built up; the kit contains a floor, cab sides and roof with the storage cupboards for the sleeper area being added. Careful painting following you references will give this some life, and to the rear of the sleeper is the large couch style sleeper bed. This is well done and the moulding has the stitched detail of the 1:1 bed. The cab can be painted and build as a separate part before sliding into the outer shell. The cab shell comes as a large single part moulding, needing the back wall and cab roof gluing on. I have tried these parts together dry and the fit looks good, with the joints being in line with the panel joins and mouldings on the real truck. Some supports for the rear air deflectors need gluing to the back wall of the cab, and these may be in a contrasting colour to the cab, so again check photos of the truck you are building. Mirrors, wipers and the sun visor are then added to the cab before the cab is glued onto its mounts on the chassis. There is a small decal sheet included. This has the orange and silver stripes for the cab as seen on the box top illustration, and there are some licence plates for a Virginia registered truck or some ProStar+ dealer plates. You will need to look for an aftermarket supplier should you want different tags for your model. There are decals for the cab interior covering the dials and switches on the dash, and as I noted earlier in the review you will need to sand the detail off the dash to fit the decals, or use some setting solution to get them to settle over the raised details. There are also some wood effect for the dash and other areas in the cab as seen on various models and specifications of the ProStar. The remainder of the sheet is taken up with some ProStar+ logos for the truck and the legally required reflective markings. The sheet is nicely printed, crisp with fine small details. Conclusion This is a nice kit of a popular US truck. Your spares box will benefit from some of the surplus parts but it is very good to see parts like the shorter chassis rails being redone. Cutting and joining chassis rails would have caused a weak area that could break on your completed build. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
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