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Found 31 results

  1. The Case of the Merlin Kit A Dark and Stormy Night Modeling Horror Story From the deepest, murkiest, most haunted black lagoons of modeling history comes this...I hesitate to call it "kit". It is as much as a kit as the Frankenstein Monster is an adorable young human being. Old are its years, obscure its origins, wrapped in shadows the unspeakable method used to create it. It wouldn't be out of place in a séance as an ectoplasmic apparition that would certainly make the hairs of your nape raise. How far should a modeler go to prove that his heart is stout, his hand firm, his will unquenchable? Oh, the humanity. It has been said that Merlin models were given that name because you have to be a wizard to be able to build them. I disagree. You have to be a mad wizard to even want to build one. But suffer one must, it seems, when friends kindly ask you to build their old kits. Sigh... Contents. For what I can see online the engine was lost in transit: "Vintage" decals: Instructions. The correct interpretation is "Mwahhhhaha....MWAHAHAHA....MWAHAHAHAH!!!" One and 4/5ths of a propeller: And those seats don't look that comfortable, if you ask me: The "clear" fuselage. Appropriately murky... A strange composite material, with reinforcement black particles embedded in the plastic (Igor's ashes?): And, just mentioning, there is nowadays the Planet Models Air Express resin kit that is, well, as Lady Galadriel is to an orc. To be continued?
  2. Hello Folks, I made this one some time ago to represent a Halifax GR.II (Special) from 58 Sqn at St. Davids, Wales in 1943 but I can now share it with you, hope you like it; The Freightdog update set was fantastic and although not totally accurate for the rivet counters out there it certainly makes the Revell Halifax actually look like a Halifax and it is really easy to use. I added bracing inside the nose cone for the .5 Browning carried by Halifax`s of 58 & 502 Sqns and it came from an old USAAF bomber kit. This model appears in the latest issue of Airfix Modelworld magazine, All the best Tony O
  3. Evening all, I'd been suffering from a serious case of modeller's block and had ground to a halt on all my projects and just couldn't get restarted. I'd actually built this kit on and off a while back, and all it needed was painting and decalling so in an effort to restart the mojo I splashed some Halfords and Tamiya paints on and just went for it. It's far from perfect but has got me back in the groove and keen to get going on some of the other kits I have on the go so its purpose was well-served. The decals actually represent a B-36B rather than the Mongram kit's RB-36H configuration, but all I did was fill the slots for the jets and round off the prop tips. A proper B-model would have a different bomb bay set up, different tail radar and various other slight differences but I didn't want to get bogged down making any further modifications so left it as is. Anyway, here it is: DSC_0261 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0255 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0288 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0263 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0266 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0284 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0279 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0276 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0274 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr I saw a real one of these in Datyon a few years back and it's MASSIVE - hence it's no surprise the 1/72nd version is also MASSIVE! Happy modelling, folks. Tom
  4. It has finally happened....Eduard has released the DVII in 1.72nd scale...the first is the Library Edition post-war Czech air force and the second will be a profile pack from WW1. I am hoping that Hannants will have the Library Edition soon...I have pre-ordered the other. Good things do come to those who wait (and suffer with Roden) --John
  5. This is the Tamiya Messerschmitt Bf109 G-6 in 1/72nd scale. Apart from the EZ-line antenna wire, the model was built straight out box. Vallejo Model Air paints were used for the main colours. Thanks for looking. Joe.
  6. I had fun with this. I made a few scratch adjustments, but not much. Those I documented. The paints are all Vallejo Air and the rigging is monofilament. The kit decals went on alright, thankfully no cracking, but they aren't the greatest and I suggest anyone wanting to build this find some better quality transfers. They are a bit thin. I gave it a bit of black/brown oil wash for weathering. Happy modelling! John
  7. (A model from more than a year ago, its posting prompted by a fellow modeler that requested some information) It is always a great joy to see a civil kit released. It is even better when it's good. Until now, the only option you had if you wanted a Delta (not this one, which is 1A/B/C, but the dual cockpit version, 1D), was to combine the Williams Bros. Northrop Gamma kit with a Body Job (Esoteric Models very old conversion) vacuum-formed fuselage that was not precisely a paradigm of perfection. I know, because I have built it (perhaps I should post it too as comparison, but it's not nearly a nice model as this is). The molds are crisp, the detail is good, the transparencies are clear, and the parts are sound. There are some extra parts that correspond to other versions, either released before or perhaps to be released. This boxing has decals for Sweden, US (TWA) and Mexico. Los Hermanos Mexicanos will surely be very pleased to see one of their machines built. And surely planes can fly above stupid walls. The kit comes in a normal, sturdy box that prevents the now customary pre-crushing, and the decals and transparencies are bagged separately, as well as the rest of the sprues. There are even masks to deal with a variation on the door area. Venturous modelers may adapt (through extensive surgery, though) this kit to portray other machines, since there were many civil users, but I would probably wait to see if Azur/FRROM/Special Hobby releases the 1D version, before nipping and cutting to heavily modify this kit for that purpose). The chubby, stubby, stocky, unmistakable and cute appearance of the Delta, together with several livery options should make of this a sought-after release. Meanwhile, I can recommend the reading of the very good and well-illustrated article on AIR MAGAZINE #24 (French publication). Many modifications and refinements were applied to this kit to improve what came in the box, which is good but missed some details. One of the iconic airliners of the 30's finally gets the place in the modeling universe it deserves.
  8. (I am posting this build from 5 years ago because I will start another release from this Polish manufacturer, the RWD-5, soon to be posted as WIP here): Those nice little kits. Not long ago I received a mysterious package from Lübeck, Germany. The sender’s address read: “Zönke - Evil Empire, Sekret Lair Unter Ze Volkano”. Intrigued –as the reader may have guessed- I opened the box and found a certain number of kits, of varied fur, quality and degrees of unbuildness. Some have been already started, some were pristine, some were arcane, some were known. Many treasures laid amidst or inside the battered boxes, bread crumbs, sandwich leftovers, insects, portraits of a woman called Helga and plans for death rays. I selected one to start the pile, the object of this article. I love nice little kits, even if they require, as it is certainly the case with this one, a small dose of love and care. The “Plastyk” Polish brand of kits was not totally unknown to me, although I had only the vague reminiscence of having seen an ad or two. They also released an RWD-5 and an RWD-8, among other subjects. Opening the box revealed the contents, which for the original –and current- price are a total bargain. The images that illustrate the article convey the idea of the items included: a number of detailed and not-so-well-molded parts, thick, scratched but not bad transparencies, a comprehensive decal sheet, extensive instructions, and a free visa to Poland, stamped in blue. Or may be that could be the quality control tag, who knows, I don’t speak Polish although I love Polish food. As you can see in the close-up images some effort was put in representing surface detail. There is plenty of it and even the fuselage internal sides have some detail. The fabric texture is just a tad off, and some raised panel lines are not really very subtle. You could sand them, over-prime them, or leave them as they are. There is an aftermarket photoetched set made by PART (PART S72026 1/72 RWD-6) that could be used to complement the nice kit, I didn’t think it was a must for me. Browsing the net showed a high number of these kits completed - some to a nice level of quality and detail - and posted, which is always a good sign. The RWD-6, although in the right time-frame and mind frame, is not a subject that aligns with what I normally build (or should I say abnormally build), but it is a stress-free divertimento that I take as a relaxing vacation from the hardships of the life of the scratchbuilder. If you do an Internet search you will find plenty of background info and images. Perhaps its most famous appearance was in the Berlin Air Show of 1932. As you start the kit some cleaning, refining and adjusting are in order, and perhaps a few parts should be better replaced with card stock, airfoil stock, or in some cases scratched; that is not really a necessity, but more of a personal choice. The wing panels’ trailing edges are a tad thick, so I sanded the aileron down on the intrados and separated the flaps, which allowed me to thin them down too. Building notes: The model presents two options. Single wing struts for the "-6", or “V” wing struts for "-6bis". Choose accordingly. In photos I can see a bulkhead after the seats, closing the cockpit, absent in the model. There are two protuberances on each wing tip that some modelers have mistaken for nav lights. They are actually wrongly-depicted tie-down holes, surely misinterpreted from a plan, since the holes are visible in photos. The Engine shield has a cutout for some engine element. The kit part depicts the cutout but said element is not provided. The kit does not provide instrument decals, but does present a little panel that goes on top of the coaming. Photos show both panels as having a black or dark grey background, three instruments for that little top panel and several for the "normal" panel bellow it. The clear parts once glued showed to be a tad bigger than their fuselage contact surfaces in width, about half a millimeter each side. The decals in this very old release I got are bad for many reasons (they may be better in current releases): the images are not good quality; for example, the edges of the registrations are a bit wobbly. The carrier is excessive (way beyond the images), thick and not really transparent. The decals take a long time to be released from their backing sheet, so be patient. They do not conform well to relief on the model's surfaces, even with decal solution. Trim your decals to eliminate as much carrier as you can. The Stanavo logo on the decal sheet is the wrong color, it should have a red background.
  9. Another pioneer that I scratchbuilt some time ago, for the collection or aeronautic relics and your (hopefully) pleasure: The dream of getting into the blue yonder wasn't born in a specific place. Almost every man through history longed for wings. By the end of the XIX century, Alexander Mozhaisky, a Russian national, built and tested a steam powered monoplane that basically had the right stuff. It is arguable that he achieved a great degree of success, although the machine made a promising hop. Bureaucracy, lack of support, lack of funds, his own death, the usual things, prevented what could have had the chance to really make history, a fate many other pioneers would share. I will humbly dispute the numbers almost universally given for the size of this plane, which, if made with the given span and length, would be almost ridiculous. Fortunately, and after a certain time spent researching, an unexpected text (The Naval Institute Guide to the Soviet Navy by Norman Polmar) provided with the much more credible span of 12.2 meters. Why the other sources state, for example, that the main propeller was 28.7' (almost 9 meters) the span 74' (more than 22 meters) and so forth, seems to escape common sense; perhaps the common mistake of confusing metric and imperial? some other contemporary Russian measure system? Time will tell. Or Won't. What can I say, give me a glass of vodka and a balalaika (or better an Xacto)
  10. And I am off...first I cleaned off the bench. I've not done that properly since my first GB back in...I don't know...I've forgotten... Greece can be a dusty place and my flat is no exception, hence the glass-doored cabinets I have for the built kits. This is kit PK-8, Gladiator Mk.1 and I will make it in French livery for a nice, silvery change. This is my second build for this GB and I am eagerly awaiting the outcome of the 2018 voting! Oh boy, am I excited! All I ask is a clean bench and a kit to steer her by... Except for the decals from the excellent Extradecal Gladiator set, this will be OOB as much as possible. And my second Gladiator from that decal collection. I built the Greek bird last year from the new Airfix kit. Why do I think this will be more fun? --John
  11. OK! And I am off... I am just waiting to hear back from Martian regarding colour schemes since we are both building the same very pretty little bird. I would like to build the aircraft from Wheeler Field in Hawaii, 31-246, but I am easy to change and it is still early. We both have the wonderful set of aftermarket decals from Starfighter and there are four options, all of which are really cool. At this point I have just primed the plastic and will begun some interior scratch building of the cockpit. There are excellent photos on-line for reference and some wonderful in-flight shots too! What a neat little plane she was... I will be using rattle can paints for the fuselage (see below) and the wings too. Humbrol Light Olive for the fuselage and Trainer Yellow for the wings. The rigging will be .005 stainless and I might try to make a new and thinner windscreen. Here are my opening images... I tested out several different 'greens' and even mixed a few up. I don't have the exact OD from the 1930s, and in the end I chose the rattle can Light Olive from Humbrol. The other examples are assorted Vallejo tints and a bit of Humbrol 159...too brown. The others were too green and the IDF Green is really nice, it was too grey/blue. ...and here are my sprue, primed. The grey primer is really grey, not so blue, so I apologize for the poor white balance. I think the trainer yellow will turn out just fine for this. If I need to brighten it up I'll do a quick scary of Humbrol Yellow from the can to do so, but so far this yellow has grown on me. Yes..it looks a bit 'mustard-y' but remember the white balance is off and I couldn't fix it for some reason. It really is more yellow, and deeper than the plain yellow flavour. ...and away I go...
  12. Ok. Some you know this...but this is what I am going to build... This isn't my build thread, obviously. My goals? To take more time with this little beauty. Also, try to scratch some better interiors, which I usually skip. I might try to rig it completely with EZ-line. I think this will not be so weathered, since it was a civilian craft and not flown into the sturm and drang of warfare. It'll be OOB, except for whatever scratch I manage to construct. I am going o to try to make the build last 2 whole weeks...that will be tough. Happy modelling all! --John
  13. Here is my latest and last before I begin the Floatplane GB...Eastern Express's Sopwith Snipe in Russian livery... A pretty straightforward build, not real snags. The colors are MisterKit PC-10 and British WW1 Doped Linen, Tamiya Royal Light Gray, Vallejo Aluminum...I airbrushed the lot except for the aluminum. MisterKit airbrushed really well as long as it isn't too thin. It covers much better than with a stick brush. The decals are OOB, but after some research, I trimmed off the white roundels around the black stars. I have seen the rudder in both CDL and light blue and I chose light blue for the look. The WingNuts page is an excellent resource for the rigging and I was pleased to see they did not encourage any double lines, so I did not as well. Rigging is the good mix of fishing line, EZ-line and stretched sprue, depending on where it was used. A nice little model and a good addition to the Post WW1 shelf. Controls horns fore and aft are brass wire through drilled holes. I chose to photograph it outside on the terrace in the shade to use the diffused light. I adjusted the white balance , worked with the shadow/highlights, colour balance, etc...then cropped. I think they are better than my usual pics. See you all at the starting line on Sunday!
  14. Okey-dokey...Here is AZ Model's 1948-era Egyptian Mk. IX, from the double kit which includes an Israeli version as well. For me, this has been a groundbreaking build: 1. Probably the first Spitfire since I was about 10 years old... 2. I have started using Tamiya acrylics properly, i.e. with thinner (and it hand brushes on beautifully boys...) 3. My first attempt at pin-washing with oils. What a difference! I will get better... Ok..the nuts and bolts...Tamiya Light Blue and Desert Yellow for the primary surfaces. I masked off and then rattle can sprayed Humbrol Acrylic Dark Brown. Masked off again after drying overnight and sprayed the tail section and the wing tips Humbrol Flat White. Notice there is a tone difference in the dark brown came areas? I had to best guess for some touch-ups and ended up using Vallejo Chocolate Brown with a little Desert Tan. It wasn't perfect but I liked it. It gave the model an element of "This is 1948 in the desert and we are using these old Spitfires purchased through arms dealers and we don't have the same shade of brown as the Brits..." The black stripes are decal stock, cut and measured. The radio antenna is EZ-Line and a bit of sprue. Hmm..what else...Oh yes...One flaw with this kit is the wingtips. You have to add them on. This is too bad, but I guess they have only one mould and they must use it for the Greek, Czech and other variants if this kit. One tip is to not sand or saw the ends of the wings before you put the top and bottom halves together. Do it after the whole fuselage is assembled and the tip fitting process will go more smoothly. Is that it? This was a good kit and went together fairly easily. I still need to work on my clear parts more precisely. I can mask, etc...it still looks wonky. Time will improve! I have also made the decision to buy an airbrush. I am tired of all the weird masking I need to do. Plus, how am I going to get those great Finnish, Bulgarian and Japanese camos right without it? --JDCM
  15. Ok...here it is. Finished as far as I can tell and it wasn't a physical problem so much as an emotional one. I became so discouraged somewhere along the line that I almost shelved the project. Perhaps it was the heat here in Greece...Then the wind shifted and the weather improved and I buckled down and got on with it. I must say that once I had it painted and assembled (sans markings) I was more enthused and then when the stars-and-meatballs went on, I breathed a sigh of relief! It really does look like a Tommy! Paint is Valejo Russian Uniform Green, Flat Red and the nose is Humbrol Yellow from the can. Decals are scavenged from the excellent Kaydet sheet by Xtradecal. Rigging is a mix of stretched sprue (rear bits) and nylon thread (flying wires). Bit and bobs from the spares box. This is a fictional craft as far as I can tell. Not exactly a "what if?" I refer to this kit as the "Montgomery Clift"...from the right profile it looks like a star. Now on to something that is moulded well, fits together properly and, well...you know what I mean. I am very happy with this build and I think it may have been the last Merlin Tommy out there. I hope I did it justice. --John
  16. For your perusal...HR Models Hanriot HD-2 floatplane. This was a nice little kit but needed a certain amount of TLC and skill to build. The instructions were rudimentary but sufficient and I ended up using plenty of on-line sources for the rigging, alternative views and weathering. I love making early floatplanes and aside from this kit (and others from HR), the Roden Albatros W-4s, and a couple of other more obscure kits, there aren't a lot out there in this scale. The rigging is a mix of .004 fishing line ( which means a lot of drilling!) and some stretched sprue for the little bits. Paints are all Vallejo and the decals are OOB, as is the build. --JDCM
  17. Something post-WW2...The Revell Stearman Kaydet in 1/72nd scale, used in Israel in the late 40s and 50s as a training aircraft. The build is OOB, with only the rigging in .004 line (drilldrilldrill) and Vallejo colors. the decals are aftermarket from a wonderful set made by Xtradecal. Among the options are a Nationalist Chinese and Peruvian craft (that's next) as well as several US birds. I feel that when I find a kit that builds OOB easily and without fuss, I stick to the manufacturer's designs. This is a good example. An easy kit, some descent painting and lovely, thin perfectly registered decals make the model a bit more special. Hope you like it! --JDCM
  18. My very first jet. Yes...after almost 40 years of this hobby I have finally built something without a propeller. I was astounded at the kit, actually. Talk about tight fitting pieces! Amazing. They must be molding their plastic with lasers. I really enjoyed this build and, as a big fan of Cold War history, this is a must for me and any other aircraft hobbyist. In fact, I have become so enamoured with the early Migs that I have ordered the Quattro box from Eduard and also some Mig-17 kits from AZ Models. Something about all those uses in the Middle East and Africa... I used plenty of sources for modelling and weathering from the interweb, some of which I think was from this site. Thanks folks! --JDCM
  19. I've finished battling with the 1/72nd scale BroPlan vacform kit of the S.E.161R Languedoc. The mouldings themselves were very nice, with crisp surface detail, but as with other kits from this manufacturer that I've built the plastic is just a smidge thicker than fag paper, and it's very easy to sand right through it. Therefore great care is needed with building these kits, and too much filling and sanding will only create a whole lot more! The decals were appalling and broke up and were lacking in colour density, so I used a mixture of ModelDecal and hand painted insignias such as the fin stripes. The undercarriage and propellers were quite crude injection-moulded parts, but they cleaned up ok. A very challenging subject, but I was pleased with the end result, and as far as I'm aware this is the only kit available of this interesting aircraft. I used Xtracolour aluminium for the main airframe and Humbrol paints for the detail parts. Clear-fix was used for the windows as none were provided in the kit. Rob
  20. Hiya Folks, I`ve been on a roll with Hurricane models at the moment and I decided to see what I could do with the old Heller kit as I had a few in the stash. The raised detail was sanded away and I attempted to re scribe it while the plank like wings were modified by having the trailing edges trimmed to better match the correct wing chord. Anyway enough blurb,....here is the model finished in Portugese markings from Colorado Decals; Here is the model with the cut line marked out on the wings using a template; A set of 44gal long range tanks left over from a Revell Hurricane were also fitted, All the best Tony
  21. Hello Gentlemen, this will be my entry to the F4U Corsair STGB. Tamiya 1/72 scale Bird Cage Corsair The model sprues. Xtradecal Set X72140 Yanks with Roundels Part 1 The Decal Sheet. Eduard Zoom Set SS270 Thanks for looking, Joe
  22. This will be my build for the KUTA VIII Group Build. I first started building this seven years ago! I was making it for my Son's friend who was at the time, a serving member of the Fleet Air Arm. Since then, he has done his 22 years and left the Royal Navy. I feel this man has waited long enough for his model. So I intend to get my bottom in gear and try my hardest to finish it in the given time span. This will be my third group build. I finished the other two in time, so I think this will keep me motivated to finish this one as well. The photo shows how far I've got. The fuselage is just taped together with the other required parts bagged up. The first job will be to get the interior finished so I can glue the fuselage together. There are a few other bits and pieces that I can still attach before doing that, which I will do if it helps progress the build. The last helicopter I made was the Matchbox Chinook. That was a few years ago. I made it for a model airfield layout that I made for my Son. (I've just looked on line, and that kit was released in 1986!). So helicopters are not my strong point, but I'll make the best job I can of it. Thanks for looking, Joe.
  23. This is the Hobby Boss easy assembly 1/72nd F4U-1 Corsair. I built this a few years ago for a club build at IPMS Romsey. If memory serves me correctly, we all built the same kit, but in the markings of our choice. As you can see, I went for the easy option building it straight from the box including the decals. Thank you for looking, Joe.
  24. Boulton Paul Defiant Mk.I. No. 264 Squadron, Martlesham, Suffolk, England, July 1940. This is the new 1/72nd scale Defiant from Airfix. I will use an Eduard Zoom set for the interior detail, Set No SS525. For the camouflage colour paint, I have Hannants Xtracrylix. The markings will be the standard kit decals. For weathering and panel lines I intend to use gouache. Thank you for looking, Joe.
  25. Here's my attempt at Airfix's new tool Dornier Do17z. I fancied a break from some other longer term projects and wanted something that I knew would go together easily and create little fuss, and as usual with Airfix's latest releases it did just that. I have read that people have had problems with ill-fitting and warped parts in this kit, but I can report nothing of the sort - it was almost a case of throwing some glue and paint into the box, giving it a shake and out it comes. Dornier Do17z, 8./Kampfgeschwader 77, Laon, France, July 1940: It's been built 100% 'out of the box' with the only addition being the swastikas from an Xtradecal sheet. Paints were all Xtracolour enamels. Tom
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