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Found 43 results

  1. Hello! I am going to attempt to build this kit as one of the early ragwings that arrived in Canada in Spring 1939. Here is a link to some questions I had and the answers I received: I have started by removing a few major components and cleaning/sanding edges. I have thinned down the insides of the wing trailing edges, hoping to avoid the thick edges that Airfix gives you. So far so good. It's been awhile since I last sat at the table and worked on styrene. Man, that can be hard on the back when you're old and out of shape. Anyhoos, here a picture to prove I am working on an actual real kit. A warning to any followers! My progress can be best described as glacial. I hope to do just this one kit in the next year. Chris
  2. Look what Santa brought.... the latest 1/72 scale kit from Ukrainian manufacturer Modelsvit... the Sukhoi T10 Flanker prototype. Excellent box art showing Bort 'Yellow 10' - one of two options in the box. Top and bottom fuselage halves - with delicate engraved detail.. Ogival shaped wing parts - totally different to the production T10S 'Flanker-B'. Plus fins and tailplanes. Engine nacelles for the Al-21F engine fitted to the prototypes. Nose gear, mainwheel bays and cockpit parts. The sprues now have part numbers moulded on next to the part - a useful development. Main undercarriage parts and wheels. Jetpipes, compressor faces and afterburner flameholders - all neatly moulded. 2 X R-27ET plus 2 X R-27ER missiles - as fitted to these prototypes. Crystal clear canopies - both open and closed options. Early K-36 ejection seat - made up from 26 parts !!!! Decal sheet - note the two instrument panels - one for the plastic panel, one for the etched brass option. Etched parts - plus the plastic IRST ball. The clear perspex is for the etched HUD !!!! I didn't photograph the self-adhesive masks - which contains masks for the wheel hubs as well as masks for both inside and outside of the canopy !! Back page of the 12-page construction booklet. This is a fantastic kit from Modelsvit - crisply moulded with delicate engraved panel detail, plus etched brass parts and canopy masks - a truly comprehensive package. Ken
  3. Following the 'comparison' thread - I have made a start on building the Trumpeter 1/72 scale Su-34..... I won't post pics of the sprues - they are available elsewhere and here - just progress photos of the build. The cockpit is quite comprehensive - with a separate door in the rear bulkhead..... but note those ejection pin marks in the structure behind the seats. Similarly, the nosewheel bay looks accurate - complete with two-parts for the sliding access hatch..... The K-36 ejection seats are quite simplified - I would replace them if the cockpit was open - but they are acceptable given the closed cockpit... Trumpeter even provide the rudder pedals and very nice control collums - decals are provided for the front and side instrument panels - although the starboard panel curled up on me and I couldn't get it straight... Note the rear door - which I have posed open. The nosewheel bay in place - although not mentioned in the instructions, the front access hatch can be clicked in place and made to slide open..... Open.... Closed.... View into the wheel bay.... note the sliding front hatch. Top and bottom fuselage halves glued together..... I have made an attempt at re-profiling the nose to make it sharper - with moderate success...... It isn't 100% - but it looks much better - I might shave a bit more off to make the 'beak' sharper - but without going through the plastic!!... Re-shaped Trumpeter nose compared to the Italeri nose.... More later... Ken
  4. Just finished - the excellent Trumpeter Su-34 kit in 1/72 scale........ Trumpeter missed a few things - the curved fillet between the wing L/E and the ESM pod (when fitted)..... ... the Blind Flying curtains inside the cockpit..... .... and the APU exhaust outlet on top of the tailboom... Ken
  5. 72modeler

    DH 91 colors and markings

    I just got the new Valom DH91 Albatross kit, number 72129, today and it looks very, very good! I don't know much about the airplane, except that it is a classic DH design and is one beautiful airplane; there isn't a lot on the internet that I could find as far as cockpit/wheel bay/interior details are concerned, but my intention is not to superdetail it, but to do a decent job on one of the impressed examples or one of the two flown by 271 Squadron on courier duty. Therein lies my question: The kit color profiles show two marking choices, both BOAC courier aircraft; G-AFDM, "Fiona" and G-AFDK, "Fortuna" I also like one of the 271 Squadron aircraft, G-AEDW, "Franklin" coded BJ-W and with the serial, according to one written source, AX904. The kit color callouts list DM's colors as dark green/dark earth/aluminum and DK's colors as extra dark sea grey/dark slate grey/aluminum. Another source also stated that these two were finished with aluminum dope on the undersides, but that the civilian examples that were impressed had trainer yellow undersides. What were "Franklin's" colors? Does anybody know whether the Valom color references for the two choices in their kit are correct? Can anybody confirm the colors for AX904? I am assuming, from the few photos that show the undercart fairing doors and wheel bays of DH-91's, that they are also aluminum? Sure would be grateful for some light to be shed on this subject! I have attached a link to some useful Albatross information. Mike
  6. This is a special commission build for Ian at Wee Friends Models, It will be a complete rolling chassis and cab for which there will be a variety of back bodies made available in kit form. The request was for a brand new scratch built master of an Austin K6 in 1/72 scale, using original chassis drawings I prepared a GS length chassis, there will also be different chassis lengths made to accommodate some of the back bodies.... Once that was done it was on to the hard bit.... The cab... this is my first ever attempt at anything quite so ambitious so I was a little daunted at the prospect of having to scratch-build one of the hardest cab shapes.... This was my first attempt at it..... The yellow resin cab behind is a Road Transport Images Austin K3 cab in 1/76 that sports the same crew cab as a K6 and is what I started to use as a reference for cab roof shaping..... And with a part built Airfix Austin K6 cab from their Rescue set also used as a shaping reference.... It was while I was looking at this image that I had a "Eureka " moment..... To make the cab easier and faster to make why not use the Airfix cab as a Vac-Form mould??.... With it being 1/76th scale and my requirement was for 1/72 it made sense to use the smaller as a former to make the bigger..... And so..... I set about making a Vac-form machine out of my mould making Vacuum chamber and pump..... I then converted the Airfix cab into a mould block, and got forming, to get the thickness of plastic and also build up the scale I had to laminate repeated layers of plasticard on top of one another, after my third attempt at it I came out with this..... A bit of shaping went on using a file, sanding sticks and needle files to get this..... And with its first test shot of primer to show up pits, blemishes and faults..... during this project I also invested in some new machinery to make like a little easier, not knowing how much actual use it would get I bought the cheap copy of the Unimat1 6in1 tool, so far its been a god send, although the 3 jaw lathe chuck was total poop straight out the box, literally seizing solid on me the first time I used it, no big drama as I now use a Dremel arbor to hold wheels,...... here I have it set up as a milling machine to face up the windscreen angles...... Yet more shaping and sanding..... Things moved on quite quickly after that, here it sits in its second test shot of grey primer to show up the blemishes, and now also windows are cut in and shaped, the engine and radiator are fitted and in the last few pics the start of the interior base plate that will also locate the cab to the chassis..... Stay tuned for more, which will include the radiator grill and engine covers, and then the chassis and suspension..... ATB Sean
  7. Latest i a long line of projects.... Scratchbuilt Ford/Fordson WOT6/8 cab and WOT6 Machinery truck. The cab and associated parts... The start of the back body..... That's all for now.... ATB Sean
  8. CAD images just arrived - ready to start moulding plastic....... I have no further information on actual release date - other than soon. Ken
  9. Finished the first of 3 configurations of my 100% scratch built 1/72 scale Austin K6 with Type 13/14 Radar. This configuration is 'Stowed, ready to move'..... This will be released as a Very Limited Edition resin kit at the end of this month, PM me for further details if you are interested. For those that have not seen the other 2 configurations they can be seen here..... ATB Sean
  10. As I am building the latest iteration of the Sukhoi Su-34 - I thought I'd have a go at the earliest version - the T-10V1 Su-27IB. I originally thought of just grafting the original Su-27 tailboom onto the Italeri Su-34 kit - but the biggest problem I faced was filling in the mainwheel wells - they are huge on the Su-34 and cut into the intake sides - the whole area is totally different between the Su-27IB and production Su-34. So I have adopted the method that Sukhoi used - grafting the new side-by-side cockpit section front fuselage onto the rear of a tandem two-seat Su-27UB trainer...... Here's what I mean - the Italeri Su-34 is on the left, the Heller Su-27UB on the right - the blue tape shows where I am making the cuts.... Underside view showing the major difference in the main landing gear wells..... The Italeri Su-34 front end grafted onto the Heller Su-27UB rear end - note the discrepancy in the shape of the spines - fixable with generous applications of Milliput (I hope) Undersides ....... Now all I have to do is graft the Italeri wings onto the Heller fuselage (the Italeri wings are better), fix the intakes (the scallop for the well on the Heller intake is now correct for the Su-27IB - but the intake lower edges are too 'square' and lack the slot in the bottom)....... More later.. Ken
  11. Always a sucker for the oddball, I recently purchased this latest kit from Ukrainian manufacturer A&A Models... It is a kit of the German design for a VTOL fighter - the EWR VJ-101 - with four engines in swivelling wing tip nacelles backed up with two more mounted vertically behind the cockpit - making SIX in all. Moulded by Modelsvit on behalf of A&A Models the kit represents the second prototype and is neatly moulded in mid-grey plastic with fine engraved detail... Fuselage sprues. Parts for the swivelling wingtip nacelles - which can be made to work (though not in unison!) Wings and things. Boarding ladder, ejection seat and two choices of clear canopy - open or closed. Canopy masks, etched harness and decal sheet. Paint and decal guide for the second prototype - quoting Humbrol numbers. This looks to be a very nice comprehensive kit, well moulded and packaged with different display options - the inclusion of canopy masks and etched brass now appears to be the norm with these kits from the Ukraine - western manufacturers please take note! The box sides indicate that A&A will be kitting the first prototype VJ-101C-X1 - plus the VAK-191 VTOL strike aircraft I can't wait to get started........ Ken
  12. Just finished the A&A Models EWR VJ-101C-X2 German VTOL fighter testbed.... The main engines are in VTOL mode - with the translating intakes extended and the front lift engines intake and exhaust doors open. The main engines horizontal in CTOL mode (when the translating intakes would be retracted and the forward engine doors closed) CTOL..... VTOL. Build and finished model photos here..... Ken
  13. I am working on three scratch-builds, all of which have un-cowled motors. Since a bare motor is a natural focus, and making motors in 1/72 is a project in itself, I am treating the motors as a stand-alone project, getting the trickiest bits out of the way of the builds at the start. One of these projects is a pioneer era pusher machine, which was powered by an early Curtiss V-8 engine. After a couple of false starts, I have finally got the basic item in hand. I had to do something resembling precision work on the cylinders, which I don't like and try to avoid. My instinct is to employ the old sculptor's maxim, suitably altered for plastic modeling --- take up a piece of plastic and remove everything which is not the part you want. But with the varying rings and steps, this was not going to be a good method for the cylinders of this motor. I used 'flying jigs' to get the pieces uniform. The pieces were measured against, and in some instances attached to, stock strip pieces of known thickness, and sanded down to match these standard pieces. This shows the principle, though it is from an earlier run. From left to right: finished cylinder, dressed cylinder piece on the 'flying jig', raw cylinder piece on the 'flying jig', and raw cylinder assemblies. On this run, the upper step was 2.5 mm, and the lower 0.75 mm. This did not allow for the irreducible thickness of the base ring, and so on the finished item I reduced the lower step to 0.5 mm. This necessitated boring all the way through the lower piece, and fixing the wire pin in the upper piece. On my first run at this, I made the block too thin. On my second I spaced the cylinders too wide. Further, in both of these, the block was patterned on the OX-5 motor's block. The commercial success of the Curtiss OX-5 motor drowns the earlier V-8 models Curtiss produced, and while the various permutations from the model O on are basically similar, there are a lot of detail differences. OX-5 material can be used as a guide, but by the end-stage, period photographs have to be employed, and given the vagaries of such things, I have had to employ a certain amount of creative gizmology in here. When I began the final run, I started by making the cylinder mount. It is hollow, with a base piece of 15 thou card, 11mm long and 5mm wide, a spine piece 2.5mm high down the center, and side pieces tented in. Shaved discs of 2 mm rod are attached. Here are the new cylinders with the some of the receiving holes bored in the cylinder base. Here are the cylinders attached. Here is the cylinder assembly mounted to the second OX-5 pattern block. The block is 3 mm wide, made of three pieces of 1 mm sheet laminated together. Here is the start of detailing. A further disc of shaved 2 mm rod tops each cylinder, with a head piece of slightly thinned 2 mm rod atop this. Curtiss cylinders were held down by four long bolts and an 'X' fitting over the cap. The block has been re-shaped to the earlier pattern. Here are the fuel feeds and rocker arms in. Here is the current state, with water lines and exhaust ports in, as well as sundry other 'works' shown in photographs.... Further work on this motor must await mounting on its trestle above the lower wing, so it can tie in with the radiator and fuel tanks and wing assembly. Putting together two Armstrong-Siddeley Jaguar motors for a brace of Fairey Flycatchers has proved quite a project. There have been several false starts, some of which can be seen here in this earlier thread: Going back to those in that thread after some work on the Curtiss V-8, I was not satisfied with them. The cylinders were too fat, and shaping the heads of the cylinders was not going well; the rear row interfered with getting tools onto the front cylinders. I checked available materials against the Grainger drawings, and found that while the Evergreen 2.4mm rod I usually use was indeed too thin, some Plastruct 2.5mm matched perfectly the widest part of the cylinders in the drawing --- the difference of 7 thousandths of an inch mattered. It was also clear that here, too, I was going to have to be precise in making the cylinders (all twenty-eight), because the heads were going to have to be shaped before the cylinders were attached. I made new crankcases, again of two circles of 2mm sheet. I discarded the idea of indicating the base rings. They are not prominent in photographs of Jaguars, and would make it harder to calculate cylinder length. I marked them for cylinder locatuons from one of the earlier motors, and drove large locating holes, to allow for a bit of wiggle and adjustment of spacing and alignment as things progressed. The cylinders I made as before, putting a taper in the end of the rod, scoring 'fins' in with the blade of a razor knife, and then cutting at, or close to, anyway, the proper length (in this case, 4mm). Cooling fins are one place where I take refuge in scale fidelity --- these are always grossly over-stated in motors on models, especially in 1/72 (if properly scaled, the fins would have a thickness of three thousandths of an inch or less, well under a tenth of millimeter). To get the cylinders to the same length, I employed an improvised jig, made of two pieces of 2mm sheet laminated together, with a shelf on which the tapered end of the cylinder piece could rest, while the cylinder piece is tacked into place against the 'height' guide with a dab of CA gel. Once in place, they are trimmed down, with knife and sanding sticks, to match the height guide. Since the item accommodates seven cylinder pieces, each row of cylinders is done at one go. To prepare the tops of the cylinders, half of which must be cut down, a groove is sawn into the cylinders with a razor saw, once height is uniform. It is no trouble to crack the pieces off the jig by working a knife-point into the seam. Here is one rune with two remaining cylinder pieces on the jig.... The rear half of each cylinder top is removed once the piece is off the jig. A pin of 20 guage steel beading wire is put in the open end of the cylinders. Here is the front and rear of one of the assembled motors.... Next step is shaping and attaching the crankcase fronts. Circles were made of 3mm sheet, and their centers marked and pierced, with the rear face being attached to a toothpick for working.... They are then popped off the toothpicks and attached to the front of the motors. Next steps here will be adding a 'collar' at the rear, and putting in the fuel feed lines at the rear, followed by valves and associated 'works' in front, and finally the exhaust stubs.
  14. I have now got both of the existing 1/72 scale kits - the new one from Trumpeter (2017 release) - and the old one from Italeri (released in 1995) - so I thought I'd do a comparison.... these are just my personal opinions BTW..... The Trumpeter kit is typical from them - excellent packaging, crisp moulding and loads of weaponry and very expensive - but also some shape errors. It also represents the latest configuration - whereas the Italeri kit is of a Su-34 from about 20 years ago... Trumpeters excellent box art....... .... and superb packaging. But the nose is way off !!! .... compared to the real thing Italeri got it much better - all those years ago..... Italeri upper fuselage mated to Trumpeter lower.... Italeri lower fuselage mated to Trumpeter upper. Note the strakes on the Trumpeter kit (an addition since Italeri kitted their version). Trumpeter moulded the fuselage and wings as one part...... (but got the wingspan wrong - they measured the span WITHOUT the wingtip launch rails - so it works out at 208mm instead of the correct 204mm - Italeri is nearer at 205mm) Note also the sharp edge to the curved engine nacelles..... Italeri's nacelles are blended in better - much more subtle. Italer got their fins wrong - the early Su-34 prototypes had a taller fin taken from the Su-27UB - it was later replaced with a shorter fin taken from a single-seat Su-27. Trumpeter's fin (on the left) is better. Trumpeter provide the latest tailboom - with a built-in APU - but it is a half-hearted attempt - you have to cut out a recess and fit the intake grille into it. And.... they don't provide the APU exhaust flaps at the top rear of the tailboom.... Trumpeter (top) and Italeri tailbooms - Italeri is too long. More later Ken
  15. Look what the postman just delivered - the latest in Modelsvit's coverage of the MiG family - the I-320 all-weather fighter... Box art.... Is it ugly or what ?? The instruction sheet gives a short potted history plus colour matches to Humbrol paints... Colour painting guide - for the third prototype...(note the very welcome paint masks for the complicated canopy framework) Another page from the instruction booklet showing the well-detailed VK-1 engine, the multi-part ejection seats and the cockpit/intake assembly. The two-part fuselage with separate starboard fin... Wings, tailplanes and slipper tanks.... Ken
  16. Designed to fulfil a Soviet AF requrement for an all-weather/night fighter, the MiG I320 employed two Klimov VK-1 centrifugal turbojets mounted in tandem - the front engine exhausting under the centre fuselage, the rear engine with a conventional tail exhaust. The two crew were seated side-by-side under a clear canopy and the third prototype was fitted with a 'Korshun' (Kite) radar in a thimble radome above the front intake. Making its first flight in 1949, the MiG I-320 had a rival in the similarly laid out Lavochkin La-200 (tandem VK-1 engines, Korshun radar, side-by-side seating, 3 x 37mm cannon) and the Sukhoi Su-15 (tandem RD-45 engines, Toryii radar, single seat, 2 x 37mm cannon) None of the three rivals made it to production - the night fighter requirement was finally met by the later Yak-25. Modelsvit have now produced a kit of the MiG I-320 in 1/72 scale - and what a cracker it is, with fine engraved detail, well moulded parts, self-adhesive masks for the canopy, wheel hubs, gun blast area and the small aerials on the fin. Construction was fairly straight forward - see my WIF here. This is certainly their best kit yet in terms of finesse - it even incorporates part numbers on the sprues for the first time... Enough talk, here are some pics of the finished model...... Underside showing the two staggered jet exhausts. Top view - note the excellent clear canopy and the neat panel detail. Open airbrakes are included. The only thing I replaced was the cannon barrels - from thin metal tubing. Looking like a basking shark.... Ken
  17. vindicareassassin

    1/72 Opel Blitz Shelf-Queens x2

    Trying to clear the back log of shelf queens and these 2 Opel Blitz are part of that effort.... One early cab set in the Eastern Front and a Late box cab set on the Western Front..... Progress so far..... More to follow..... ATB Sean
  18. Finally finished - the latest in Modelsvit's growing collection of one-off MiG prototypes..... this is the MiG E-152M. Apart from a few issues getting the cockpit/intake sub-assembly to fit, the rest was just the normal 'limited run' type of kit from Ukrainian manufacturer Modelsvit. Great surface detail, comprehensive decal sheet, etched brass parts, self-adhesive masks for the wheel hubs, dielectric panels on the wings and the canopy - but with the usual large sprue gates with every part needing to be 'fettled' before assembly. It looks highly accurate and was a pleasure to build. Three wingtip options are included - with dummy (port) and test(Stbd) missiles. The canards can be left off - replaced by a fairing. The centreline drop tank is optional - it was not carried during its few flights. Canards and front-opening canopy - note the HUD. This latest E-152M is the third 'BiG MiG' from Modelsvit - following their E-150 and E-152A..... All these many prototypes led, eventually, to the successful MiG-25...... I hope that Modelsvit will re-issue this kit with markings for the record-breaking E-166... More photos here. Ken
  19. Finished today....... An Opel BLITZ (Daimler built, L701 Einheitsfahrerhaus) wooden cabin 1:72 by Roden, with Zvezda Medics ATB Sean
  20. I'm just in the process of building the latest 'Big MiG' from Modelsvit - the huge MiG E-152M. It is a typical short-run from Modelsvit - accurate (AFAIK), excellent surface detail, great decals, canopy and aerial masks, etched brass parts etc etc - a very comprehensive package....... The usual caveats about the fit of parts - especially the nosecone/cockpit/nosewheel bay sub assembly - I had a difficult time getting the fuselage halves to fit around it - but after a lot of scraping of plastic, I got there in the end..... More photos here... Ken
  21. So, with the corrected QL chassis/cab done I left you at the end of the last log with this..... In the last few days I've started to put this together..... A J145 Radio body, and whilst at it I'm making the kit version of the same body for Ian at Wee Freinds.... I'm currently at the point of the challenging part... Shaping the 'Luton' box above the cab.... More to follow soon..... ATB Sean
  22. Just finished - the huge MiG-152A in 1/72 scale from Modelsvit....... Twin R11F-300 powered MiG-152A fitted with two dummy K-9 missiles. Looking like a 1/48 scale fuselage fitted with a 1/72 scale wing - the E-152A was assigned the ASCC Reporting Name 'Flipper'. The fins on the real K-9 missiles were painted black to make them look like Sparrow missiles. Twin exhausts and massive ventral fins. Big MiG pair from Modelsvit - single-engined E-150 (left) and twin-engined E-152A (right). E-150 and E-152A compared. WIP photos are here. Ken
  23. My latest completion, a Hasegawa 1/72 scale F-16B. A good practice run for the F-16 GB. The tail markings are homemade and represent an aircraft from the F-16 Combined Test Force at Edwards AFB in 1989 used for development testing of the Air Defense Fighter variant. Used Eduard photo-etch for the cockpit, Master AOA and pitot probes and missiles from the Hasegawa weapons set. The target ID light on the left side is an MV lens. The Eduard set provides details to spruce up the kit ejection seats, which are pretty basic, but they don’t include the green emergency oxygen bottle on the left side of the seat. The bottle is a pretty prominent part of the ACES II so I represented them with pieces of stretched sprue painted with green from the little Testors square bottle. The high-speed data recorder pod on the centerline is made from the front portion of two F-16 centerline tanks The Eduard HUD frame went pinging off to feed the carpet monster, so I replaced it with a basic from made from beer can aluminium. The Hasegawa kit decals for the national insignia, air refueling stenciling and walkway lines have a brownish cast to them. This is most prominent on the walkway stripes, so I left them off. I’ll have to check my decal stash for suitable replacements for the stars and bars. Thanks for looking, Sven Old Viper Tester
  24. This just in........ Zvezda's Su-33 box art showing a Flanker-D launching from Admiral Kuznetsov - with a Kirov-class battlecruiser in the background. The back of the box shows a made-up model..... Unlike the previous Su-27SM kit, the upper fuselage is a one-piece moulding - with correct contours around the canard mounting shoulders... The lower fuselage moulding - with correctly aligned main wheel wells!!!....... Half of Sprue C with the intakes - note that there are no mesh intakes mouded into the intake sides - they are provided as decals... Sprue B - with the correctly-raked fin tips...... Ken
  25. I can't keep up with all these new releases from the Ukraine...... Hot on the heels of the Modelsvit M-17 Mystic, comes the new 1/72 scale Amodel kit of the Soviet-era jet flying boat - the Beriev Be-10 'Mallow'. Box art..... Probably due to mould size limitations, the fuselage is in front and rear halves - which might make for an interesting joint !! The third part of the fuselage is the tail gun position - plus the centre section and wing fences. Upper and lower centre section parts.... Upper..... .... and lower wing halves.. There is quite a lot of flash present - but the engraved panel detail is well executed Ken
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