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  1. Dutch O-16 Submarine Pacific Crossroads 1:350 History The Inter-War Dutch submarine fleet could be split into two categories: O, (Onderzeeboot) boats, designed for the home waters and K, (Kolonien), boats, for deployment in the vast East Indies colonies. The main differences between the two types were size and range, which was greater for the K boats due to the operational area. The O-16 was the first submarine which combined the range, size and speed of the colonial boats with the handling and armament requirements of the boats designed for the European waters. The keel for the O-16 was laid down in December 1933 at K.M. De Schelde shipyard in Vlissingen. She was launched on January 27th 1936 and commissioned on October 26th. In early 1937 O-16 sailed to the United States, visiting Norfolk and Washington D.C. with stops at Bermuda, the Azors and Lisbon. In 1939 she was attached to the Dutch East Indies submarine fleet. When war was declared on Japan on December 8th 1941, O-16 was already on patrol in the South China Sea and commenced attacking Japanese forces that were invading northeast Malaya. On December 10th she damaged a troopship. Two days later O-16 attacked several troopships in the Bay of Soengei Patani on the East coast of Malaya, sinking three in shallow water and damaging a fourth. With only one torpedo left she sailed for Singapore. On December 15th O-16 struck a mine exiting the Gulf of Siam during her voyage to Singapore. She was nearly broken in half and 41 men perished. Only one crew member, Boatswain Cornelis De Wolf, survived. In October 1995, the wreck of O-16 was found and three years later was filmed and photographed. The Model This kit is the first submarine from Pacific Crossroads and it was a very pleasant surprise when it arrived in the post, as I wasn’t expecting it, so thanks for the this Boris. The kit comes in a very sturdy cardboard box with a picture of the O-16 moored alongside a Far Eastern jetty in a very dramatic light and a War Cross medal with Nederlandsch 1941-42 Bar in the right hand corner. On opening the box the modeller is presented with a very well protected hull form, wrapped in bubble wrap, a clear plastic box with all the other resin parts carefully protected, a sheet of etched brass, (although like the other kits from Pacific Crossroads it still looks like copper), a small poly bag containing a small decal sheet and the turned barrel of the main gun. The instructions come with a short history section, reproduced above, some period photographs and colour plan view of the starboard side and top. The instructions themselves are in a pictorial form of coloured drawings. They are very clear and well annotated, showing which parts go where. The modeller will have to scratch build the radio and periscope masts, but there are clear plans for these at the rear of the instructions. Whilst the protection of the main, single piece hull is very good some of the bollards had broken off, but these can easily be replaced with suitably sized rod or even aftermarket parts. The detail moulded into the hull is very nice, but there are some scratches on the sides that will need to be sanded down a bit. The wooden slat decking appears a little over scale and would benefit from a light sanding to reduce the depth a bit, this goes for the deck piece that covers the external torpedo tubes too. The hull isn’t connected to heavily to the moulding block so once removed it shouldn’t be too difficult to clean up ready for the build. The rest of the parts comprising of the single piece tower, propellers, complete with shafts, external torpedo tubes, aft pair of dive planes, rudder, and ships guns, two AA and the single main are all very nicely moulded and will need only a minimal clean up after removal from the casting blocks. As stated above the main gun comes with option of using a turned metal barrel. This will require the resin barrel to be removed and a small hole drilled into the gun to fit. Etch The single etched sheet provides the rest of the parts required to complete the build and included the various railings for the hull and tower, two cranes, one fitted forward and one aft, vertical ladders and two “accommodation ladders”. There are also two aerial spreaders/supports, the bow cable/net cutter, watertight doors for the tower, aft AA gun gratings, two plates that cover the external, trainable torpedo mounting, which can be posed either open or closed and the two foreplanes. Two quite large plaques are provided for attaching to whatever base you decide to mount the completed model on. The build is quite simple, but I can imagine a little fiddly, but one everything is removed from the casting blocks and cleaned up it shouldn’t cause too many problems for the more experienced modeller. I would assemble the masts first in preparation for fitting at the appropriate point. Once these are done the tower can be fitted to the hull, followed by the trainable torpedo tubes, which are fitted into the well on the foredeck and cover by the separate deck piece. The propellers/shafts are then fitted, along with the aft diveplanes, which come complete with prop guards, and rudder. The ships guns are then fitted to their appropriate positions before the etched parts are fitted. The railings are particularly fine and along with the aerial supports great care should be taken to fit them in their appropriate positions without damaging them. The three periscopes and main mast can then be fitted before painting begins. Of course this is only one way of building the model and the modeller should choose what’s best for them and the way they tackle it. Decals The small sheet contains two Dutch flags, which I presume are fitted either side of the tower, although some research will be need to determine the correct placement, and two very small, (I missed them completely, until Boris pointed them out), white identification codes. Make sure you don't lose them when dipping the sheet in water. Conclusion For the first submarine release Pacific Crossroads have chosen an unusual and exciting example. Even the colour scheme will make it stand out from the crowd in a display. Whilst every effort has obviously been made to ensure the parts are well protected there are bound to be some breakages as evidenced on the review sample, but there is nothing that can’t be scratch built to replace these small fragile parts. If you like submarines, you’ll love this and it really should be included in any collection. Very highly recommended Review sample courtesy of
  2. Trumpeter 1/350 HMS Dreadnought in a scratchbuilt Portsmouth dry dock number 15. PE by WEM including the cage aerial cages, 12pdr's, searchlights and figures by Northstar, resin planks and crates from l'Arsenal. Main gun barrels from Master Barrels. Extra cutters missing from the kit from the Shapeways. The dockside cranes are also 3d printed from my own design. Rigging a mixture of Caenis and Uschi line. Sign by Paul Boyle at http://www.pbmodelmaking.co.uk/ Build WIP here; Thanks to everyone who followed the WIP and provided help and advice along the way, particularly Dave Swindell and Kris - can't believe you got your's finished before me Kris Pics are a mixture of phone and DLSR, outdoors and then in cos it started raining Few detailed views; Guys mopping the deck watched by a PO; These chaps are in trouble for something; Whilst the lucky 3 leaving the ship with bags are going on leave; And these poor buggers are loading stores onto the ship, watched by the dockyard workers; Cranes doing craney stuff; An officer being ferried over by cutter; And the Captain surveying his empire; Hope you like it, any comments gratefully received. Cheers Nick I've taken a few more pics, the idea being to use a more realistic angle and try and date some to look like period photo's; Cheers Nick
  3. Good afternoon. I present to you my build of Combrig's re-boxing of U-Boat Laboratorium's UB I type coastal submarine in 1/350, painted as UB-2 (though the plaque says UB 1). From the kit's instruction sheet: "UB-2 entered service on February 18, 1915 and was attached to training Kurland flotilla. An experienced sailor oberleutnant-zur-see Werner Furbringer, future high-scoring U-boot commander and 'Blue Max' winner, became her first captain. "Having successfully completed training UB-2 passed to Flandria to a first line unit. Sincethe beginning of May 1915 up to the end of December 1916 she completed 40 combat cruises and sunk 11 vessels. In January 1917 the submarine transferred to a training flotilla and served there until the end of the war." My first resin ship kit, and was very simple to build; she's barely 3 inches long! The hull was a single piece with the other parts being the rubber assembly, rigging, railing and various other parts. And I lost the propeller. I scratch-built the masts from brass rod and some of the rigging wires with nickel wire. I used Mig Ammo Medium Grey and Citadel Abaddon Black for the paint scheme, and a Copic liner for the face. Weathering was done with an oil paint dot streaking method and Mig Ammo's Rust Oilbrusher. Enjoy!
  4. I haven't assembled a warship since my youth, and I will not tell that this was looooooong time ago. But the Admiral Graf Spee and all the story and myths surrounding the Battle of the River Plate in December 1939 has always attracted me, so I decided to leave my airplane models to rest for a while, and assemble the Trumpeter 1/350 Graf Spee. I got the Eduard PE set as well and Master Models metal cannon barrels for the main and secondary cannons, and for the 105mm AA, really beautiful. I want to represent the ship as it would have been right before the battle, with the Dark Gray camo. I haven't decided yet if I will assemble the Ar196 non-operational (w/o engine, wings folded, as it was in the morning of the battle after it's second engine broke down the day before, or maybe complete it with the disguised markings as it was couple days before the battle, will see). Apart from the stern anchor recess being in the wrong direction, I haven'r really found any issue with the kit. There are some really big rivets on the main cannon towers and secondary cannons, but you can fis this easily with careful sanding (would have loved to get the correct boat types for 1939, but ok, nothing is perfect). I have started assembling as per instructions the armament, cranes and boats. Substituted already all the plastic cannons for the metal ones, a big improvement, only thing is that the metal ones are very prone to scratches while manipulating them. Some scratchbuilding as required, but the kit is excellent, really enjoying this change! The rear opening of the secondary armament turrets required correction of the shape, it comes a a square opening and should have rounded upper corners. Eduard PE doors were sanded narrower as well. With the metal cannons replacing the plastic ones, the turrets look impressive! (it is a pitty that you have to paint them, HA!) Marco
  5. USS Gambier Bay is best known for her action during the Battle off Samar as a part of Task Force 77.4.3. On the morning of October 25th 1944, Vice Admiral Kurita's center force, consisting of 4 battleships (including Yamato), 8 Heavy cruisers and 11 destroyers broke through the San Bernardino Straight and were in a position to threaten the American landings at Leyte Gulf. All that stood between Kurita and the landing force was Taffy 3; 6 escort carriers, 3 destroyers and 4 destroyer escorts. In what is possibly the greatest naval mismatch in the history of warfare, Taffy 3 managed to halt, then turn back Kurita's ships despite their overwhelming superiority. Almost all of taffy 3's ships suffered damage, with 2 destroyers, 1 destroyer escort and 2 escort carriers sunk, this included Gambier Bay. It's thought she was sunk by a combination of 14 and 18 inch main battery gunfire from Yamato and Kongo and was the only carrier sunk by surface gunfire in the Pacific. The kit looks quite nice and I've wanted an escort carrier for some time, but the price was always very high here, around 200 dollars. However last year I happened upon a second hand one for less than half price and well I had to have it! As you can see I've made a bit of a start on it today, fit thus far seems pretty nice. I will add a little photo etch to it to spruce things up.
  6. Hey Guys, This is the old(ish) Zvezda offering boxed under Flagman, which also have their Hotel Class K-19. The kit is not necessarily basic, but its one one sprue and most of the parts go into the various masts on the sail. The kit is curiously designed in the way that the two hull halves go together to leave a gap on the top, where the decks are later fitted. Even more curiously is how they give you a flat deck piece thats meant to bend down over the bow. Furthermore the conning tower was left separate in two halves. Two towers were provided so that you could either produce the Project. 627 or the Project. 627A which was a later (and more common) variant with a different sonar set up including a German-esque chin sonar bulb. The rest of the kit was simple enough but I must say the fit was poor. The bow hydroplanes and the various stern planes locating pins were oversized when compared to the holes they were designed for. and where the hydroplanes aft of the propellers were, they seemed to be too far forward and had to be adjusted to allow the fitting of the propeller. The model was painted with colourcoats (ex-White Ensign) Hull red and NATO Black from Tamiya. Then using oil paints I streaked from all of the major inlet valves for both the main and trim ballast tanks finishing with a coat of Xtracolour Matte Varnish. And here she is with some of her contemporaries as well as successors As you may have/haven't seen my photo set up is pretty rough so hopefully you'll be able to at least see the outline! Thanks for looking Sam
  7. To all pre-dreadnought fans, a German pre-dreadnought battleship is going to become available in 1/350! Trumpeter listed SMS Schleswig-Holstein, the last of the German pre-dreads, in the 1/350 section of their 2018/19 catalogue!
  8. Nick Charnock

    1/350 HMS Dreadnought

    Time to start a new project; 1/350 HMS Dreadnought with White Ensign & Eduard PE and some resin detail from North Star; and Master barrels; Replacement resin guns from North star; And 24" searchlight for the fore mast, the kit provides a 36" which is incorrect; Made a start, first bit is to correct the port holes and hatches on the port bow area; Add these 2 port holes; Remove this hatch and add another pothole below the hatch on the upper deck; And add a new hatch in the correct position - hopefully a more accurate depiction of the real thing; Name on the stern from the WEM PE before joining the hull halves. There are photos of the ship with the name originally below the upper line of port holes captioned as 1905 and later,1908 above, I'm not sure when the name was moved but went for above the port holes; 1905 1908 Thanks for looking Cheers Nick
  9. If you have looked at any of my current builds (Seafire 47/Seafang; HMS Brinton and/or Walrus), you will know by now that I have fractured my wrist. I cannot model one-handed, so I have been wracking my brains about what I can do for the time until I get my left arm back from the menders. The power of modern technology is at least helping in one respect; I am dictating this post into my MacBook Air and will then cut & paste it into BM; no one-finger, one-hand typing for me! Right, so you can't build models for a while, Crisp - why start a new thread then? Because... well, read on. Many of you already know that I served on board HMS Fearless in 1981-1982, including during the Falklands War. The ship, therefore, for reasons that will be obvious, has a very special place in my heart, and it has always been a long-term plan of mine to build a model of her. Kits were very thin until a couple of years ago; basically there was the ancient 1/600 Airfix job. It can be done - one build in particular on the internet shows a wonderful result from that particular elderly sow's ear [http://steeleelstudios.blogspot.co.uk/2011/11/marine-art-and-modelmaking-hms-fearless.html]. But it's not my scale - I am very much a 1/350 man when it comes to ships - and if I am going to spend hundreds of hours scratch building, then I might as well scratch build the whole thing. The utterly stunning Hermes, Broadsword and Yarmouth build on this very site (take a bow, @andrewa) shows what is possible and has been a massive inspiration to me. If you have not already seen this masterpiece, then go and look at it now. Actually, do so even if you have; it is superb modelling. [No pressure, then, Crisp…] There will be two Fearless builds shown in this thread; one will be the scratch built 1/350 one I have wanted to do for so long. This will be built docked down in action, as in San Carlos Water, probably as on about 24th May 1982, when this well-known photograph was taken (from one of the Rapier batteries on the hill). [You can tell it was around May 24th, because that Lynx on deck is Antelope's - she had blown up the previous day. I spent much of the war working on the flight deck - this was before I started my flying training]. I have assembled quite a few detailed parts for the 1/350 one, mostly from Peter Hall at Atlantic: I have 4 x Seacat launchers, a Cheverton (Captain's barge), motor whaler (sea boat), 2 x 40/60 Bofors guns, some basic LCU hulls (which may or may not be suitable for adaptation), and plenty of Seaking material which will be left over from Ark Royal. I also have lots of resin bitts, fairleads, hawser reels, etc. and PE RN pattern doors, hatches and ladders. As you would expect, I have lots of reference material, of which the three most useful books are these - two widely available, and the other (the home-produced pamphlet which every member of the Ship's Company took away with them when we got back) definitely not. Ewen Southby-Tailyour's book is particularly good because it has some clear photos of areas you don't normally see (like the inside of the tank deck0. I also have copious plans from Jecobin - and we will come back to those. The second Fearless model - which will be the first to be finished, no doubt - will be half the size; the L'Arsenal 1/700 resin and PE kit. It was launched at ScaleModelWorld in about 2012, and you won't be astonished to learn that I snapped one up instantly. I will not be starting it yet (too many other builds on the go, not to mention the wrist thing!), but I will give you the statutory intro shots. The box: And the contents: The L'Arsenal kit looks very nice, though it's not perfect; it is billed as Fearless as she was in 1982, but some of the details show her as she was a few years later, post-refit - notably the guns (which are BMARC 30mm rather than ancient Mk.7 40mm Bofors) and the chaff launchers on the bridge wing (which are SuperRBOC rather than the old-fashioned Corvus). Nothing, though, that cannot be fixed. I also found a build of this kit in an Airfix Modeller Magazine back issue, in which he says that the only problem he encountered was that the flight deck in his copy was a horrible fit. Yep, me too. Time for some plastic card, I think. Really nasty, bubbly casting on that flight deck, too - which is odd, because the rest of the kit is beautifully cast; here, for example, the fo'c's'le with a Swann-Morton No 11 alongside for scale. Rather than repeat the San Carlos scenario at half the size, I will probably build the L'Arsenal version to show her as she steamed back into Portsmouth in July 1982, missing one LCU (F4 having been sunk) and bearing her battle scars. ANYWAY... why start this thread now, when I cannot model? Because the one thing you definitely need when scratch building is a really good set of plans. I have these; the 1/192 Jecobin jobs, which are excellent, and of which I have already produced numerous copies reduced to 1/350, which will be cut up to produce templates etc. You will note that I have plans for BOTH Intrepid and Fearless - because neither of them show the ship in the 1982 configuration. Intrepid is as built, when the rear of the superstructure was very different. Fearless is as post-refit, with Phalanx, modern guns, a revised comms fit etc. So what I plan to do during my enforced lay-off is to combine the two sets on my computer, and generate a full set of plans for Fearless as she actually was in 1982. Those of you who followed my SeaKing rivet marathon will recall that i did something quite similar then. There will be no modelling in this thread for some time; but in the next few weeks there will be updates showing progress towards accurate plans for the time I wish to depict her. More soon-ish Crisp [P.S. Why "explicit women"? Because the motto under Fearless' crest is EXPLICIT NOMEN - essentially, "The name speaks for itself" - but shortly before the Falklands malarkey we had to pulp a load of publicity leaflets (for open days etc) because it had a misprint; the junior officers immediately adopted the revised motto.]
  10. I thought I would share a potentially different idea for using the existing Trumpeter Display Base Stand - I got the Trumpeter ' Dry Dock ' Display Stand coverted to accept 2 Silver Ship Pedestals for the 1/350 HMS Repulse Model - the Plastic Kit Display Stand was strengthened underneath with 2 Aluminium Supports to transfer the weight of the completed Model to the ground - rather than the Kit display stand plastic - and 2 proper steel screws and washers to fix the Model to the stand - maybe of some interest ?? note the method works perfectly for any Trumpeter 1/350 Kit ( I recommend you take the Display Stand and 2 Pedestals to an Engineer and get it altered like this ) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Model-Ship-D ... 3446606152? These are the ones that I bought on Ebay , from the same seller , but there are others on ebay as well ( search 1/350 Pedestals Ship )
  11. Hi guys. Here I present my second sub of 2018, a 1/350 Resolution Class SSBN of the Royal Navy by MikroMir. Like most submarine kits in this scale; they have few parts, a few decals and if you're lucky some PE. A simple build that needed only a little filler. RN subs are rather bland... black, so here it is painted satin black overall with a matt black for 'non-slip' deck. I tend to think that the fin looks too cluttered if all the masts are fitted, so I fit what I consider the 'surfaced' arrangement of search periscope, radar and W/T mast. To add a bit of scale, a couple of Tamiya figures were added. Thanks for looking. Stuart
  12. I have been absent from the ship section of this site for far too long. I plan to get back to my long-paused Ark Royal 1987 build this year, but before I do I thought I'd get my 1/350 eye back in. I was in the RN from 1978 - 1997, and my (very long term!) plan is to build a 1/350 model of every ship in which I served (and 1/48 model of every type of aircraft that I flew, but that's over in a another part of the forum!). That means, in order... Dido, Norfolk, Fearless, Boxer, Ark Royal, Broadsword & Blackwater... In some cases a good quality model is available; I have the Atlantic Models Ikara Leander (Dido) and DLG (Norfolk) kits safely in the stash. You can find my Ark Royal elsewhere on here. Though the chances of a mainstream kit of them are approximately nil, I am still hopeful that Peter Hall will get round to a Batch 1 Type 22 (Broadsword), and it's not completely impossible that he will do a Batch 2 (Boxer). After that it gets dodgy; I am going to have to scratch build Blackwater and Fearless - but since they respectively were my first (and only) command and the ship in which I went to war, they're arguably the most important of the lot! Anyway, most of those are along way off. When I was appointed to Blackwater in early 1992, she was in refit and not looking ready to emerge for at least a month, so my Boss sent me to sea in order to get some early experience of the Fisheries Protection malarkey before I was in charge of a patrol in my own ship. So I was never officially appointed to Brinton, but I spent a couple of very happy weeks in her in early 1992, boarding dodgy French and Portuguese trawlers in the Western Channel. There is also the modelling point of view; I am doing this because it will be first experience of one of Peter's beautiful kits, and I thought I would learn on a relatively simple one (no monstrously complex PE radars or Sea Slug launchers!); Brinton fits that description perfectly. So here we go with the statutory box photo: As you can see, I have a copy of the stunning Jecobin plans (I never do a ship build without decent plans), shown here reduced to 1/350 size. The plans are of Nurton, and the model matches them beautifully - those of you who followed @Paul E's Brereton build last year will recall that this means the kit isn't actually Upton (who was a 'sweeper rather than a 'hunter, and the kit is a 'hunter). [If you don't know what I am talking about, Paul explains it far better than me in his build, including photos!] Luckily for me, Brinton was definitely a mine hunter, so the kit can be used for her without any significant surgery. Apart from the Jecobin plans and a few photos, my only other reference source is this, which contains some useful close-ups of the class in all its varied forms: I am also lucky enough to have a sheet of Paul E's home-baked extra PE, which will allow me to improve a few details (doors, windows, the Bofors, petrol stowage rack, etc) - seen here in the foreground, with the resin, white metal and PE of Peter's original kit, plus some Master brass 40/60 Bofors gun barrels. So here goes! I should warn you that I also have a Seafire 47, a Seafang and a Walrus on the go at present, plus I am being badgered to re-start my Sea King and Ark Royal builds... this is not likely to be quick. But it should be fun... [famous last words]. More soon Crisp P.S. Why the title? Brinton had a long-standing affiliation with Fyffes bananas (the reasons are lost in the mists of time), and throughout her service both in MCM3 and the Fish Squadron had a large yellow banana proudly displayed on the bridge screen. [Auto-correct seems intent on telling me that Brinton should actually say Brenton, so if I slip at times during the build, blame Apple!]
  13. ( note the images are from imgur - so are safe ! ) I thought the forum might be interested in a method of making the Trumpeter ' Dry Dock Style ' Display Stand much more attractive - I have used 2 Silver Pedestal stands that I bought on ebay last year . You can easily find them for sale elsewhere ( eg Pontos or Mk1 Design - do them ) I went to a local Metal Engineer Firm and got my 2 Silver Ship Pedestals ready to fix to the Repulse Kit Hull of my 1/350 HMS Repulse .󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿 I have used the black plastic Trumpeter Kit Display Stand ( this was strengthened underneath ( my idea ) with 2 Aluminium Base Supports to transfer the weight of the completed Model to the ground surface - rather than just onto two areas ( which might be potentially weak ) of kit plastic of the Kit Dry Dock display stand ( better safe than sorry ) . I have taken a few photos to show you - note the Silver Pedestals did NOT have any bolts or washers supplied - so the new ones are made of Steel = total cost for me £ 18 and I think that's not a bad price for the work involved and the craftsmanship . This is British Engineering !! just to show what you can use to make the Trumpeter kit display stand a lot nicer
  14. Hello maritime builders. I’ve been slowly getting back into this hobby this year and this is my very first attempt at maritime modelling so I know there’ll be plenty of mistakes, but I wanted to do it to learn new skills and techniques. As described in the ‘Work in progress’ thread, this Hobbyboss kit is really excellent for its size and cost and is a very quick build. The kit has been built OOTB with the only exception being the VLF aerials. These were added because they’re a prominent feature on the full size craft, although finding a suitable scale size medium proved a bit troublesome. In the end my darling partner came to the rescue and donated some of her very fine hair which happened to be near enough scale in thickness. The hair was fixed in place with medium CA glue and the insulators were simply blobs of thick CA. The hair was painted in German Grey and the insulators in Red Brown. I’m fairly happy with the end result and I had intended to place the sub on a ‘North Sea’ diorama, but chickened out as making dioramas is a whole new skill that I need to learn at a later date. Anyway, modelling at this scale with Mr. Magoo eyes and sausage fingers has tested my patience somewhat (especially the PE and aerial wires), but it’s certainly kept me entertained! BTW, as ever, constructive criticism is more than welcome and I must say a big thank you to Tobby on this forum as it was his U-boat presentation that inspired me to have a go.
  15. After serving in RN subs on and off for 9 years, first serving on HMS Courageous, a brief period on Conqueror and lastly on Renown, I thought it was remiss of me not to have better collection of subs. I have some of these subs already in 1/700 scale by OKB but they're just too small and with little else on the market, I drifted to the 'dark-side' of aircraft. I have recently read threads about converting the 1/350 Trafalgar Class to the Swiftsure Class and was wondering if the same donor kit can be used to get a Valiant Class, Dreadnought or is it a none starter? Stuart
  16. Inspired by Andrew's excellent conversion - and prompted by an observation that I didn't have an 'S-Boat' in my collection, I decided to make a model of HMS Splendid. This was a Swiftsure Class submarine that preceded the Trafalgar Class. With notes from Andrew (many thanks ) the hull was shortened by 7mm, the upper rudder was also cropped and the single vents on the hull sides of the Trafalgar were replaced by two smaller vents per side. The finished model..... Comparison between Trafalgar and Splendid..... More photos here. Ken
  17. Hi all Having spent many an hour browsing through the top quality and thoroughly inspiring builds on display on Britmodeller, I thought I would take the plunge and share my recently completed Airfix 1/350 scale Trafalgar class submarine, HMS Tireless. I converted this to a waterline display, which took a little fettling to get right (well, to my eyes anyway ). The sea base was made by following the technique of another Britmodeller member (Thanks to Swordfish Fairey), which utilised an A4 photo frame stippled with Vallejo "water effects" and then some "Foam snow" for the white water. Many thanks.
  18. Hey Guys, Here's my rendition of the rather nice HobbyBoss Kursk. Nice being used only to describe the detail - construction was horrible! The silos straddling each side of the conning tower were positioned on the basis of a semi-hemispherical notch and that's it. Sounds relatively easy on paper, but in real life it was painful... hence the closed bays! Apart from that the fit of the hull together in two parts was nice and the conning tower was also a nice fit. I found however the instruments such as the ESM, periscope radar etc. were a fiddle as the lack of locating holes problematic in getting the masts to sit straight. So it was a little by eye to be fair, and from this i can only conclude i need an eye test... Painting her in Humbrol 67 'Tank Grey' which in effect was a match for the Mr. Hobby 'Tyre Black' Hobbyboss were calling for. The underside was Sovereign Hobby's Colourcoat's RM08 'Rosso' which in layman's terms is White Ensign's model enamels equivalent to hull red I believe. The conning tower called for it to be all black but contemporary photos of Kursk showed it having the bad-weather deck windows framed in white giving the, what looks like to me, soviet subs a rather creepy look. Also I painted some stems silver and the big dome yellow as per a reference photo I found and lost. So lets call that one artistic licence! Decalling was interesting as the carrier film the decals came on was excessively large and trying to get decals such as the emergency buoy over the dome for it was eating into my decal softener stash something rotten. Weathering however consisted mainly of Tamiya Smoke on the underside, Tamiya German Grey on top lightening patches and loads of streaking with oil paintings. Finishing off with Xtracolour's Enamel Matte Varnish I began work on the base which was literally Tamiya Gold leaf with the recessed areas sprayed black. And so it is I have finished my first ship model and so far I've gotten hold of Bronco's HMS Vanguard and Micro-Mir's Alfa to folllow the build up! As to be honest I did enjoy the build quite a lot I probably could of dusted her off but I didn't quite expect to find so much after just 2 days of finishing... Maybe time to clean the modelling room out! Thanks for looking guys Sam
  19. Trumpeter 1/350 Trumpeter HMS Exeter British ' Destroyer ' - due end of 2017 ( or maybe 2018 ? ) - note - they actually mean the WW2 Cruiser - and will probably make a 1939 version first then later , the ' 1942 Battle of the Java Sea version ' - as the Main masts are of the Single Mast type , whereas after her refit in 1940 she had Tripod Masts fitted ( along with a far better AA defence with twin 4 inch gun mountings ) https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/TU05350
  20. Hi I have the Profile warship on HMS Cossack , but I can't see any cable reels on the artwork plan and side profile drawings provided in the centrefold Does anyone know if these ships had them fitted to the deck and where they were positioned ? any help would be very appreciated ! regards David
  21. My second lighted model. Bit more room to add lights in this model as it's a lot bigger than the Revell kit.
  22. For those interested in pre-WW1 warships and/or the Russo-Japanese War, Combrig are to release some destroyers and cruisers (minus the ones they have) from said time period in 1/350. I believe these will be the first kits of Japanese destroyers that were built before the First World War! Finally, Hasegawa's Mikasa will have other ships of both her era and nation!
  23. I've debated weather or not I should put this up, but what the hell, I already bought the Artwox wood deck for it. I do have to finish 4 other models that I have up to the painting stage at the moment before I start, so I've put this here to remind myself to get cracking on those so I can start this. Feel free to prod me if there's no action here in a few weeks too.
  24. Nick Charnock

    Artwox decks

    Hi, does anyone know of a UK stockist or reputable overseas supplier for Artwox decks? I'm struggling to find 1/350 ones fro Trumpeter HMS Hood and HMS Zulu. Cheers Nick
  25. Hi guys, I am about to begin construction of Tamiya's 1/350 new tool (2011) and wanted some input on what PE I should get for the kit. The first question (and the easy one) is whether I should buy a wooden deck for the kit as the cheapest I can find one is £13 which isn't too bad but when you add that price to the grand total it does seem quite expensive, I have had no previous experience with wooden decks so if someone can tell me whether they really do make a difference (especially on a expensive kit like this). Next is any further PE or barrels, I definately want railings and would be prepared to use the 1/350 Tamiya handrail set despite the effort and complexity, I also think I want the barrels for atleast the 155mm guns and possibly the 127mm and main guns, but do brass barrels really make that much of a difference say apart from them being hollowed out? I am further considering purchaesing Rainbow's 1/350 single, triple and double aa sets as I am not satisfied with the aa included with the kit, but can find very little about the rainbow stuff which looked a bit flat in the pictures. Then stacking all this together I relised that I could just buy the Flyhawk detail set 350071 (the cheaper one) for not much more. So should I buy the Flyhawk, which would really be pushing the money I want to spend on this boat (keep in mind I am buying off a 14 year old's saved up pocket money). If anyone can supply any more info or instructions for this Flyhawk kit I would be very happy. Also if anyone has any unused PE from their Yamato build for a (very) cheap price I would be greatful I know I've asked alot, Harvey