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  1. A few weeks ago I started building a 1/700 resin & PE kit of Ark Royal 2, the pioneering First World War seaplane carrier. However, I think it’s fair to say that, as a committed 1/350 man when it comes to ships, I am finding the scale a real challenge. The kit is great, and I will continue to build it... but I find that 45 minutes in teeny-weeny über-delicate brass-land is enough - and when I do achieve things I find that it pays to let everything really cure and stabilise before moving on. Anyway, as those of you who’ve been kind enough to look into that build already know, I have been interspersing WW1 pioneers operating flimsy Shorts & Sopwith machines with experiments with the next Ark, the WW2 aircraft carrier. I have now decided that this deserves a separate thread, before it all gets too confusing. So here we are. This will be the 1/350 Merit kit, released 2 or 3 years ago to a fair amount of excitement from us RN fans, especially RN carrier fans. We understand that market forces mean that yet another Yamato or Bismarck will sell like hot cakes... but even so. I am sure I’m not the only person who finds it utterly weird that model companies will invest in the wherewithal to produce 1/350 kits of, say, Graf Zeppelin (never finished) and even Peter Strasser (barely even started, and never officially named), but not of Illustrious, whose aircraft changed the Mediterranean war in a couple of hours. Still... Nazis sell. So a mainstream kit of a British carrier is something to be celebrated! The Merit kit is... very good, certainly, though not completely without errors. Definitely the basis of a good model. The game changer for me, however, is the Tetra Modelworks detail up set, which takes us to a different league in detail. I have also obtained some other after-market RN detail goodies - notably from North Star: - HACS Mk.IV directors (the Merit ones are basic, to put it mildly, and have a radar which was never actually fitted before Ark’s demise); - winches (to populate the boat bays etc, which are devoid of anything much by way of detail); - RN anchors (one of the most obvious Merit mistakes is that the anchors are much too small); - RN bridge equipment (of which there is none); and - paravanes (US cruiser paravanes, but they’ll look close enough when stowed). This will depict Ark at a very specific moment, at about 1900 on 26 May 1941, as she turned into wind to launch 15 Swordfish of 810, 818 & 820 Naval Air Squadrons on a torpedo attack against Bismarck - the attack that jammed Bismarck’s rudder and sealed her fate. The Merit kit includes 5 Swordfish (plus 4 Skuas & 4 Fulmars, none of which will be used for this build), and I have ordered 2 boxes of Trumpeter Stringbags, which come in batches of 6 (and are by all accounts essentially identical to Merit’s, which is hardly a shock). Anyway. For some discussion of colour schemes and stuff, plus my early test runs with Tetra’s wing fold PE on a Fulmar, see the old thread. This evening, along with a very frustrating session of clumsiness in 1/700, I did manage to get the undercarriage on my test Swordfish (test because I’m playing with ideas for how to improve it... like maybe rigging it): here seen upside down.. ...and here resting on her own two feet: Even this is a right performance: Merit provide the u/c in two parts - a V-shaped part that fits into two holes in the fuselage, and a straight piece with the wheel. Getting them to line up is not simple - though eventually I landed on a technique that seems to work, namely gluing the V-strut first, and only then adding the straight oleo/wheel section. This design means that getting the aircraft level is a challenge - dry fitting completely impractical! The wheels are too thick, I think; I’d already reduced them before fitting, but once everything’s dry I’ll experiment with getting them a bit better yet. But basically it’s a pretty credible Swordfish (or will be with a second wing!), for which kudos to Merit. The next experimental Stringbag will be a folded one. Anyway. We’re off. In due course I’ll show you some more of what comes in the various boxes. More soon Crisp
  2. Just to give the good news - that Trumpeter of China have released the lovely completed Model in 1/350 Scale open to inspection in Japan of the KuK Viribus Unitis at The 59th All Japan Model & Hobby Show 2019 today enjoy ! ( sorry photo is not clearer - it was taken from Facebook's page for Trumpeter )
  3. I haven't assembled a warship since my youth, and I will not tell that this was looooooong time ago. But the Admiral Graf Spee and all the story and myths surrounding the Battle of the River Plate in December 1939 has always attracted me, so I decided to leave my airplane models to rest for a while, and assemble the Trumpeter 1/350 Graf Spee. I got the Eduard PE set as well and Master Models metal cannon barrels for the main and secondary cannons, and for the 105mm AA, really beautiful. I want to represent the ship as it would have been right before the battle, with the Dark Gray camo. I haven't decided yet if I will assemble the Ar196 non-operational (w/o engine, wings folded, as it was in the morning of the battle after it's second engine broke down the day before, or maybe complete it with the disguised markings as it was couple days before the battle, will see). Apart from the stern anchor recess being in the wrong direction, I haven'r really found any issue with the kit. There are some really big rivets on the main cannon towers and secondary cannons, but you can fis this easily with careful sanding (would have loved to get the correct boat types for 1939, but ok, nothing is perfect). I have started assembling as per instructions the armament, cranes and boats. Substituted already all the plastic cannons for the metal ones, a big improvement, only thing is that the metal ones are very prone to scratches while manipulating them. Some scratchbuilding as required, but the kit is excellent, really enjoying this change! The rear opening of the secondary armament turrets required correction of the shape, it comes a a square opening and should have rounded upper corners. Eduard PE doors were sanded narrower as well. With the metal cannons replacing the plastic ones, the turrets look impressive! (it is a pitty that you have to paint them, HA!) Marco
  4. I may have an opportunity to acquire a couple of 1/350 Iron Shipwright, Cold War, US Navy ships. I have read one or two reviews which were not entirely favourable given the price these can retail at. Does anyone have any view or information on the quality of these models generally? Thanks Terry
  5. 1/350 Trumpeter HMS Hood with; Eduard PE Flyhawk detail set which includes Pom Poms and brass main armament barrels, Various resin details form NorthStar including, 4" guns, quad Vickers, bridge equipment, searchlights, HACS, Pom Pom directors and crew. White Ensign resin main turrets Painted in ColourCoats enamels Sea painted in artists acrylics with clear gel medium top coat and cotton wool spray Rigging in Caenis 700 and Uschi line WIP here; Thanks to everyone who followed the WIP and gave advice and feedback Lot's of pics because of the size - mounted on the sea base she's 90cm long! Nice kit, and great as a base to add detail to. Hope you like the pics as much as I enjoyed building her. Few detail shots; Working parties to close the breakwater openings; Same on the quarterdeck to stow the ladders; Obligatory B+W shots; Thanks for looking, any feedback gratefully received. Cheers Nick
  6. This is one of my older models - HMS "Zinnia" build with the help of the WEM photo-etched set. The model took silver medal from the European Championship Class "C" in 2014
  7. Let the whistle blow on this build - I've been accumulating pieces for some months. There's still not a dedicated etch set though White Ensign Models have heavily hinted. There are however, sets for HMS Cornwall that she shared most characteristics with. This Family of 13 Cruisers were built in the 1920's under the limits of The Washington Naval Treaty 1922, with an upper weight limit of 10,000 tons. HMS Kent was launched in 1926 and spent the pre war years largely on the China Station. She diiffered from others such as HMS Berwick and Cornwall with never having a seaplane hangar built due to weight limitation. A major refi tin 1937/8 saw her fitted with a Walrus capable Catapult and Trumpeter present her largely in this guise with a minor upgrade seeing 6-7 20mm Oerlikons fitted in 1941, being encompassed. 1941/2 saw her operate out of Scapa Flow and largely take part in Arctic convoy duties. She is well represented in photographs from that time period - largely from the Imperial war Musuem Collection, and is portrayed in Camouflage typical of that period. References will include the following - but if anyone can direct me to further - I'd be indebted The kit box features attracive cover art and is suitably voluminous. Aftermarket goodies iclude most of the following with more to come (Sadly Micromaster.co.nz operatiosn are currently suspended due to CV19 Lockdown) Kit instructions are B&W line drawn With an attractive and broadly helpful Colour profile though I'm well aware of Trumpeter's lack of accuracy with suggested colour schemes! There is an excellent on line resource WW2 Cruisers and Battleships with some extremely attractive Colour profiles from Mr Eric Leon. I have permsiion from Mike at the site to share the 1941 profile. Please check the site out for other very interesting schemes including those for HMS Kent before and after 1941. I am very grateful to the site and Mr Leon I'm broadly happy that she is painted in 507c (very light) with MS1 (darkest) mid hull patches that that are themselves surrounded by B5/15 (lightish in some of the original photos). She has unequicovally dark painted decks that I take to be the Sovereign equivalent of NARN 2 The only real issue for me is what colour is portrayed at bow and stern. It's darker than the B15 but lighter than deck or MS1. This leaves MS2, 507A or possibly MS3? Mr Leon opts for MS2 though this has very little contrast with MS1 Any thoughts Jamie or Richard? Here are the original pictures...all gratefully attributed to and with sincere Thanks to the Imperial War Museum Collection And aren't they beautiful pictures! My feeling is that bow and stern is Not MS2 but most likely 507C and possibly MS3 which would give the greatest contrast with the mid hull MS1/B5. So here's what the Hull looks like I applaud the protective wrapping that Trumpeter use And to get an idea of size there's little HMS Anchusa next to it (Still 1/350) The model will be mounted on plinths - and I anticipate no obvious build problems or need to scratch along the way. The Micromaster parts will suitably "pimp" it up. Weathering will be light to moderate. The Hull painting will come first which is why I'm keen to get a paint plan in my mind. As ever thanks for looking Rob
  8. Time for a new project; The 1/350 HMS Hood with some aftermarket add-ons; Artworx wooden deck; Flyhawk PE and Trumpeter after market set (mainly for the barrels; Eduard PE along with Northstar secondary guns mounts, Vickers MGs, searchlights and bridge equipment and White Ensign replacement turrets; It's going to be a long project and it's a bit hard to know where to start really - so started on the hull; Removed the moulded degausing cable and drilled the scuttles to give a bit more depth - some where filled and replaced using various photos as references along with the hawse pipe hull openings; Scrapped away the moulded chain and drilled the deck hawse pipe openings; Fore deck fitted with the bow full of filler - when it's dry I'll try and drill the hawse pipes to connect hull and deck openings. Never tried it before but if it doesn't work the anchors and gratings will cover it, so worth a go; Thanks for looking. Cheers Nick
  9. These 1/350 Flower Class corvettes seem to be very popular with White Ensign Models doing a photo-etch upgrade set. However they seem to have a reputation for being a struggle to build. This is my first 1/350 model with HMS Kent waiting in the wings for some pedestals before attacking that. I love the Mountbatten pink scheme portrayed here The colur profile bids you use B20 as the contrast colour, though the text I feel rather more correctly, suggests MS2, more fitting with an early war scheme around 1940/41. Despite extensive searching I can find no original wartime pics of Anchusa in the mast afore the bridge configuration. The kit immediately benefits from the various porthole/scuttles being drilled out As do the Depth charge "doors" at the stern The depth charges have very raised mount bases on this kit that need immediate removing... 2 portholes need adding on the rear superstructure Further inital clean up involves drilling windows in the stack mount section and removign some veery clunky plastic steps And you've guessed it - more drilling to drill out skylights The wheel house has moulded in windows that most finished models on the web seem to have kept - I think drilling these out will be well worth it The hull/deck marriage needs a lot of filing to get a good fit - The forward deck insn't secured yet The plan is to mount this on a "Flodberg" type water base - My styrofoam sits waiting. BTW - do you cut or saw Styrofoam? More soon - more perhaps than was originally planned as a trip to the white stuff next week has been cancelled today due to Covid 19 And BTW 2 - I took delivery of some 3D printed itmes from "micromaster.co.nz" mainly for HMS Kent but some Carley rafts, dinghies and the 4" gun for Anchusa. I've been sniffy about some of Shapeways offerings to date....... OMG These items belong to a different generation - as others have said the level of detail is just astonishing More soon - Thanks for looking Rob
  10. When I was young my mum and dad bought a slightly run down little cottage in Devon and unsurprisingly we spent most of our childhood holidays there. Much of the time there involved mum and dad working on the cottage with me and my brother running amok around the house and garden trying to keep ourselves entertained. It was about this time (probably aged about eight) that I started building models and my parents were happy to oblige just to keep me quiet. My dad gave me a small amount of guidance but he wasn't a modeller and didn't really have much to say apart from "be careful with that knife...I don't have time to take you to hospital if you cut your finger off". Anyway I was mainly interested in building planes but one Easter I remember getting this kit to build over the holidays. Looking forward to having another go at it. I have picked up the Eduard PE to add a bit of extra detail. I may try and do a little diorama as well. I tried a few times as a kid and failed miserably but its always worth another go. Thanks for looking. Cheers Dave
  11. Hello all, I thought I would show my HMS Duke of York. I did a build log over at Modelshipworld but, for some reason, the images seem to have been moved and are now more or less inaccessible to search engines. This is a pity because, during the research for this project, I discovered a number of small features in her fitting-out that are often overlooked - and also some errors in kits and sources. Anyone working on a similar project might at least want to weigh up the evidence and see if they agree. It was a complex project but there are still some very good source pics at the Imperial War Museum site and elsewhere to help. This model is fully rc with smoking funnels, moving guns, working lights and four motors. I'll put up a film when she has had her maiden voyage. So here she is, photographed against a sheet of mirror plastic reflecting a real overcast sky. Something she spent a lot of her time underneath. Hope you like her. Hull: Tamiya 1/350 Prince of Wales Equipment: Pontos, Infini models, L'Arsenal, Tetra Model works, NorthStar, Mk1 Designs - plus a fair amount of scratch building. Thing to notice here are the two oerlikons just abaft 'B' turret. Not mentioned on the pontos plans but they were there at the end of 1943. I cut out the windows and replaced with clear sheet on both the compass platform and the admirals's bridge. Also notice the quite prominent aerials either side of the bridges.In the picture foreground, on the hull, is a sort of pump/vent/sluice cover thing. There are parts for this in the pontos set but they are the slighly shorter length found on the KGV so I made my own from brass The navlights were much more prominant in real-life than those molded on the kit. This is because they had seperate full strength and dimmed lamps vertically above each other. The radio shack - the small cabin that sits between the forward mast tripod legs - is much more complex than the plans suggest and sits on (and below) braces that hold the tripod together. The Pontos pompoms are much too high so I used the brilliant, but very fiddly, Tetra version. I also added scratch built shielding that DoY had on hers. The oerlikon mounts had arcs of steel bar welded to the tubs to stop over enthusiastic gunners training them on anything important - like each other or the superstructure. All five of these tubs were washed overboard during a storm in the Arctic in December '43. Contra the intructions, each funnel searchlight has its own derrick. Note the spare 'kedge' anchor stowed against the aft superfiring 5.25 innch turret base. I hollowed out the Northstar searchlights and gave them silver insides and stuck a piece of clear plastic over. Just visible by the Walrus port wing is the catapult launch station with a vent on each side. This has to be scratch built. Also there is a large vent each side of the hangar, visible in the picture just abaft the forward, stbd, superfiring 5.25 inch gun turret. This also has to be scratch built Also, just beside the aft funnel, you can see my scratchbuilt approximation of the extra oerlikon platforms placed on the engine vents sometime in '43. Most models miss these but they were unquestionably there. The ladders to reach them rise up between the platforms and funnel. Also note the steel plate bolted to the funnels behind the searchlight postions. These can be found on both funnels. Their purpose is uncertain (to me anyway!). Also note the two extra whalers kept on the catapult deck. Just before the Scharnhorst was engaged, the Duke of York had an addtional Type 285 radar fitted to the aft gun director. Also note the two oerlikons each side, just forward of 'x' turret and the addtional two on the boat deck. The bridge of the HMS Prince of Wales is not the same as the Duke of York. As it happens the Tamiya KGV has the right bridge layout (but the wrong boat deck). I adjusted mine to match. Also note the oerlikon layout on the fwd superstructure. Where the anchor chain goes through the deck to the chain locker there were special covers to keep (most of) the water out. Mine were made of lead foil. You can see a smaller version of the real thing on HMS Belfast. The catheads were also more sturdy that the pontos versions. I made my own. There has been an ongoing debate about the painted decks but what I have noticed from the pictures is that heavy seas - and use - quickly wore the paint away so I washed my pontos deck with diute grey stain to try and match that effect. As well as needeing way more carley floats than the kit supplies, there were also a great many 'flota nets' hanging off the sides or left in the floats. I made mine out of bundles of stretched sprue. I used the Trumpeter replacement brass screws intended for the Hood. These were, in reality, almost exactly the same size - and are better suited for rc purposes. You will need extra sets of 20mm oerlikons, watertight doors of various types - but pay attention the types used and places they appear do not follow the Pontos plans - and extra ladders. Finally the ladders to the mast head platforms do not attach to the outboard ends at the crazy angle shown, but were bolted firmly to the mast all the way up and access to the platform was through a small hatch. Build log here: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/21989-battleship-hms-duke-of-york-by-gonzo-finished-late-1943/?tab=comments#comment-642806
  12. Hello, here a view at the workbench: I am waiting for the 2 Cranes and the boat davits printed by shapeways The tiny coal winches are allready fitted. Thanks for looking! cheers Andreas
  13. It's been too long since I was last active on this side of the forum... the last half year I did stray away from ships and tried myself in figure painting... but now the itch is back and I started with a whole new project. but wait! There is more: Here are some shots of the sprues and PE frets: I started with what I thought will be the hardest part. the girders under the flight deck. More for fun I did the first half of plastic to see how long it takes this lot took me 30 minutes including clipping them off the sprues filing them clean and glueing all together... then I started the PE one... the first segment took me 3 hours to get to this point (bent, soldered together and cleaned up with a file) Oh boy, this will take some time! But damn it is worth it! both the extra money and the extra time! I'm pleased with this start Thanks for looking, Cheers Konrad
  14. Recently completed is this 1/350 HMS Upholder of 1942 where. on her 25th mission, she was lost with all hands. The kit is by EVA that was acquired unusually via FB. As is my 'new' way, The boat was going to be presented on a sea base so being a full hull model, much of it is below the waterline but to me, it's where it should be. Like most submarine kits, it has few parts but went together well. Painted with Tamiya Royal Blue. Build log here: Stuart
  15. Hi all, I had the need to build a 'boat' that has been sitting on the start line for a while. HMS Upholder, a U-Class coastal submarine and was launched in 1940 and operated out of Malta for her 2 year lifespan. She was involved in operations and in one year, she sent over 93,000 GRT to the bottom of the Mediterranean and her Captain was awarded with the VC. Unfortunately, Upholder was sunk on her 25th mission, in April 1942. A big box that could have fitted 30+ of these subs. Purchased from EAV via Facebook. Delicate stuff; sail, masts, gun, PE and decals. Picture... Started, couldn't help myself. A huge casting plug was attached at the obvious point, along the keel. Unfortunately, the plug hid much of he keel and the forward section came off with the plug. No matter, as my new doctrine with subjects that sail on or under water, are now going onto a sea base, so half the boat isn't going to be seen. Stuart
  16. Time to start a new project; 1/350 HMS Dreadnought with White Ensign & Eduard PE and some resin detail from North Star; and Master barrels; Replacement resin guns from North star; And 24" searchlight for the fore mast, the kit provides a 36" which is incorrect; Made a start, first bit is to correct the port holes and hatches on the port bow area; Add these 2 port holes; Remove this hatch and add another pothole below the hatch on the upper deck; And add a new hatch in the correct position - hopefully a more accurate depiction of the real thing; Name on the stern from the WEM PE before joining the hull halves. There are photos of the ship with the name originally below the upper line of port holes captioned as 1905 and later,1908 above, I'm not sure when the name was moved but went for above the port holes; 1905 1908 Thanks for looking Cheers Nick
  17. Nearly 2 years on and off with this it is the most modern ship I have built and boy it was a challenge with all the extra PE Peter Hall and his mad PE frets tested my patience a few times with this but quite pleased it has come out OK Couple of things I think I could do better but always learning to try and make the next one a more improved build with all the help and support you get from this site and the great modellers who are willing to give advice and share tips. WIP https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235040778-ussr-sovremenny-956-destroyer/ Cheers beefy
  18. While some of my other builds are at the fragile stage to be transported when I go to my local model club meet on a thursday night to still keep me busy I had started on this one but I will still be concentrating on getting the other two completed first. So here we have my first Hobby Boss kit and my first pre-Dreadnought HMS Lord Nelson and as some of you may know I try to keep to ships built in the area of my home town and this one fits the bill of being built on the river Tyne at Jarrow This is how far I have got after a couple of sessions at the club this will be mostly out of the box only adding my first wood deck and the rigging using the WEM spreaders for the aerial set up. Does anyone have any info on the correct color as the instructions are identical to Trumpeter and are probably wrong I think I should be heading for a Dark Grey 507B beefy
  19. I heard from an internet Modelling friend in China that the announced 1/350 Joy Yard USS Missouri - which was to be superior to the Tamiya and even the 1/350 state of the art new tool brand-new Very Fire Missouri is dead in the water - the reason is that the moulds were made wrong, and then the mold factory did not agree that it was at fault. Both sides blamed each other and were unsuccessful at a compromise. This Chinese mould manufacturer has a reputation for being unreliable. Joy Yard then tried to get the police involved but it became counterproductive and they cannot continue to push them. Unless JOY boss comes up withs $700K, they cannot continue the project. Right now there is no way to create all the parts needed.
  20. Hello all, I am working on Tamiya's 1/350 Fletcher with Eduard's PE set. Tamiya's kit is best Fletcher in its scale but still has inaccuracies and fitting issues, also Eduard's set suffers from same problems. You have to check your references before installing nearly every piece. I am not a ship expert and sometimes my models suffer from inaccuracy and mistakes but I am trying my best to build them close to the real one as much as possible. So, let the photostream begin Update 29 November: Beside these books, Internet is always your friend Let's start then! Ugly seam lines are sanded down. I really liked that plating on the hull, nice job Tamiya! Guess what is modeled accurate in anchor deck? Nothing. So I had to scrape them all Next on the line: Propeller shafts Rudder is movable, cool I also filled the gaps for propeller guards which will be replaced with PE ones. And this is my organizer for ongoing builds. Helps me a lot to not lose their pieces. Fletcher is currently using nine rooms. And we need to get rid of that mast First step. Choose the correct diameter for mast (1.5mm) and then angle it correctly accoring to the ref pics. Ref pic With her little sister, USS Cushing from Tamiya again. It was an old, brush painted model that I will convert her to FRAM Fletcher, hopefully soon Update 16 December : Main mast nearly finished. It is made of brass rods, sheet brass and plastic rod plus Eduard's set Looks better now, huh? And now for stacks, they need love too. Exhaust drilled The pipes that carry smoke to the funnels are made of plastic rods. Grills from Ed A little comparison with standard stack. The main pieces are not glued but it still needed lots of CA and glue... Little bit more PE The only remaining thing for fore-stack is pipes going straight above through the roof near ladder you can see in the photo above Before removing doors and ladders we had to check references to be sure... Then, attack! As you can see, there is a ugly gap between guard railing with fore-deckhouse, it will be filled with CA... Update 30 December: Also everything on the bridge is sanded down. And... Also these ugly stairs are removed and replaced too... It was the hardest part of this build so far... The torpedo tubes... Mid-deckhouse, %90 completed That's all for now. As you have noticed, this has been split in three update sections because I had posted them in Hobimaket before signing up here. But from now on, the updates will be launched simultaneously. This is my first ship build with a large set of PE, so I had done lots of mistakes and still doing but hey, it is for fun and i am enjoying the process. Hope you like my works and all comments are valuable and welcomed. All hands on deck! -Eren
  21. Last minute entry from me. I'm hoping it shouldn't be too much trouble as the kit is missing decals. But I've gotten from a reliable source that they sometimes went out w/o any markings on them...so we'll go with that. k 1:350 Mikr Mir Sturgeon Class (short hull) Nuclear Attack Sub Now off to get the rental car so I can get to work this week, then I'll see if I can get this one knocked out.
  22. This build thread describes the construction of a 1/350 scale model of HMS Prince of Wales (R09) which was displayed by Airfix at SMW 2019, Telford where I am shown with Darrell Burge, Hornby Brand Manager: Background to this build In April 2014, the Royal Navy contacted Airfix to commission a model of HMS Queen Elizabeth (R08) that was under construction in Rosyth Dockyard. Airfix asked me to scratch-build a 1/350 model which was subsequently displayed at the naming ceremony of HMS Queen Elizabeth in Rosyth on 4th July 2019. Thereafter it’s permanent home was the Wardroom of HMS Queen Elizabeth: Pic 001: In April 2019, I was again commissioned by Airfix, this time to scratch-build a 1/350 model of HMS Prince of Wales, the second of the Queen Elizabeth Class aircraft carriers. It would be shown at SMW 2019, Telford and thereafter it’s permanent home would be the Hornby Hobbies Visitor Centre in Margate. I hope that you enjoy following this build which may seem a bit unconventional in some parts. There were some problems to overcome but the worst difficulty was having to cope with severe concussion that I suffered five weeks before Telford. It was touch and go as to whether I would complete it in time but I only managed it by leaving off photo-etch and some other small details. To use an old Chinese proverb “a journey of a thousand miles starts with a single step”. This is the first of many sheets of plastic card used in the build: Pic 002: Although this build would be constructed mainly of plastic card, I would be using a Tamiya 1/350 USS Enterprise hull to give it some inner strength. The hull was shortened in length, all sponsons removed and keel removed and openings blanked off with plastic card. Plastic card was used to fill in the missing parts of the sides and clamped. Note that I have used the cut out section of hull to brace the new join of the midships and aft sections of hull: Pic 003: Forward section (bow excluded) glued in place: Pic 004: Putting aside the hull to dry, I cut out the Flight Deck. Being 80cm long, it would be a right handful in the confines of my modelling den: Pic 005: This situation was made worse by the fact that I was building two at once (a waterline version for myself) Pic 006: Once the hull had dried, I drilled four holes which were fitted with four 80mm M6 bolts epoxied in place. The model was then secured to a temporary chipboard base that would be used until the final day of the build (the Flight Deck hasn’t been glued in place yet): Pic 007: The most complicated part of this build is the construction of the Forward (Ship Control) and Aft (Flyco) Islands. Because of this, I decided to build the islands for both ships at the same time. Here are the Aft Islands: Pic 008: The plastic card is rather thin (0.20mm) and requires plenty of framing to prevent "dishing" of the panels: Pic 009: Pic 010: Here the two islands have been placed on the Flight Decks of the two builds. You can see the full-hull version to the rear: Pic 011: Bit more work: Pic 012: I do like using lots of filler: Pic 013: Sanding of filler was completed and then I moved onto the assembly of the Flying Control Rooms: Pic 014: I did consider having acetate glazing but after some experimentation I decided that it would not be easy to do a good job: Pic 015: Another view showing the multiple facets of the Aft Island: Pic 016: View from ahead: Pic 017: PART IB Having applied filler to the Aft Islands again, I started construction of the Forward Islands (Ship Control): Pic 018: I just can’t leave the Aft Islands alone. The filler around the Flying Control Rooms (FCRs) has been sanded and I have been adding some of the many platforms: Pic 019: Filler applied and sanded again. You can see that I have also added window wiper boxes above where the FCR windows will go: Pic 020: I then cut some "T" section plastic strip to go around plastic card discs to represent the platform for the Type 997 Artisan 3D Radar. Hopefully, when painted the ends of the "T" will look like thin rods like on the original: Pic 021: They were then glued in place and I started on the platform on the starboard side of the Aft Island: Pic 022: Once the platform had been sanded I started on the overhang of the Bridge on the starboard side. As you can see, I have glued strips of plastic card to the bulkhead first and built the overhang around them: Pic 023: One of the islands once the overhang has been completed: Pic 024: Green blobs on the Aft Island denote the locations of watertight doors: Pic 025: WEM watertight doors have been glued in place on the Aft and Forward Islands. Note that the watertight doors do not sit flush with the bottom of the bulkheads but are raised slightly: Pic 026: Taking a break from the island activity, I turned to the stern. The transoms for both versions were fabricated and the various openings cut and drilled: Pic 027: Turning to the hull briefly, I screwed hardwood dowelling inside the hull to give it some rigidity, a necessity as the plastic card is more flexible than the original dark grey plastic. The silver fitting at the stern is only temporary and supports the stern ensuring that the top of the hull remains horizontal. It will be removed once the ship is bolted to a temporary base: Pic 028: The full-hull version will be permanently mounted on a base 800mm long and here I am drilling the locating holes for the 80mm M6 bolts. The base won’t be fitted until the very end of the build: Pic 029: I have started to apply mahogany stain. So far I have applied three coats but I will need another two coats. Once finished the base was stored safely until needed: Pic 030: Now the base has been fitted I turned my attention to the Flight Deck and here I have marked the outline of the hull: Pic 031: I glued pieces of plastic card to the underside of the Flight Deck which ensure that the hull will be correctly aligned: Pic 032: First piece of Flight Deck glued in place. Note the plastic card "tab" glued to the front of the Flight Deck that will support the midships section of Flight Deck: Pic 033: The midships piece of Flight Deck glued to the hull and clamped. I couldn't resist putting the Islands on: Pic 034: Bow section of the Flight Deck has been glued in place: Pic 035: That's all for now. Dave
  23. As I sit here waiting for the final bits of glue to dry on my 1/48 Gazelle, I have decided what the next project will be. I've gradually been assembling the bits I need, and I have a 4-5 week window without too much work, so can make a decent start as the Autumn draws on. If you follow aircraft WIPs, you might already know me from the Gazelle in the Helicopter 2 GB, and a long-running (and ongoing) 1/48 Barracuda III. But this will be my first ship since building the Airfix 1/600 Fearless about 45 years ago... This is going to be Ark Royal (5) as she was when I served in her in the late 80s, on my first front-line tour on Sea Kings (820 NAS). Based on the Airfix Illustrious, obviously, but there are quite a few differences to be adapted / reworked / scratched. In no particular order: - Different shape to the ramp; Ark's was built at 12 degrees right from the start, whereas the other 2 were modified, so Ark's was a different shape underneath as it faired into the hull; - Ark had Phalanx as her CIWS throughout her life, rather than Illustrious' Goalkeeper. I have acquired some Veteran Model 1/350 Phalanxes, so that's sorted - but I need to modify the sponson on the port quarter, which is not as deep as Lusty's; - Similarly the bow CIWS deck, and a much smaller one on the starboard side of the island; - The port quarter of the flight deck is a different shape; my Ark didn't have the "bulge" alongside 8 spot; - I have to reinstate the Sea Dart installation, which means completely re-working the starboard forward flight deck; no Spot 0, as in Lusty, different profile, visible fo'c's'le, capstans and other Fish-headery, DF aerial on a pole, rather than (as later in her life) up the mainmast; - Speaking of masts, the mainmast needs major rework to reinstate UAA1 and the 992 aerial, and lose 996; the mizzen is much smaller, without the large radome she acquired in her later life; - SCOT terminals further aft, just by the mizzen mast; - Two 909 domes to reinstate, though at least the superstructure beneath them doesn't appear to have changed much; - Different catwalks - the excellent WEM PE set includes the earlier catwalks, thank goodness - and Ark didn't have a stern catwalk at all at this stage; - A Cheverton in the port midships davit (just aft of the SRBOC sponson); - Different deck markings; I will be able to use some of Airfix's decals, but there will need to be some serious maskery later on in this build - at least the lines were all straight on the flight deck I knew, unlike these semi-circular things later on! - A few other more minor differences to do with 20mm placement, configuration of liferafts etc The CAG has been assembled; some extra Airfix aircraft sprues, 8 WEM Sea Harrier FRS1s, half a dozen Trumpeter Sea Kings a plus the WEM conversion kits, plus a couple of the WEM Air Group PE sets - the aim being to have 8 SHARs, 9 Sea King 5s, 3 AEWs & 2 HC 4s, which was what we carried for the trip to Australia in 1988. I know how I am going to do the HAS5s and the AEW2s; still working out how to get the HC4s right. So lots of work to do! I have made a start; the hangar deck is built, and I have cut off a) the stbd aft flight deck "bulge"; the forward area of the flight deck; c) the port aft CIWS sponson. I'm working from a lot of reference photos, a couple of books, plus the excellent Jecobin plans (suitably reduced in size to make them 1/350). More soon (including pics of the destruction); pull up a chair!
  24. I'm having a bit of a ponder over on the TID Tug so . . . Now I'll be truthful, nothing was further from my mind than a 1/350 boat ( I was given this model by a good friend who always seems to be leading me astray). I was looking around for something from the etch set that might help the tug. No joy on the part but I got to looking at the detail Dragon had included with slide moulding Now with things on hold on the tug, the fact that I've never built anything smaller than 1/200. There are some very nice multi media kits out there in 1/350. The fact that I have an involuntary tremor in my left hand which is never going to get better (I mean that as an encouragement to others, not an excuse). There was no time like the present No promises that this can be completed but here we go ....... Start of main guns Superstructure So far so good Thanks for looking in Kev
  25. This was an entirely unexpected new release revealed by Trumpeter at the 59th Japan Model - the Cairo Class Royal Navy Anti-Aircraft Cruiser in 1.350 Scale which although announced in the 2019 Catalogue was not provided with any early pre-release box art from the normal artist that Trumpeter usually used Randall Wilson who has a facebook page , where you can see the artwork painting being produced note this is a FAR BETTER and clearer high resolution photo taken at the show of the RN cruiser interestingly Trumpeter seem to have provided the correct quadruple pom--pom mounting for the ship ( unlike the Tribal Class Destroyer which was wrongly given a octuple 8 barrel mounting ) anyway enjoy ! kind regards to the Forum
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