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Found 540 results

  1. Since I seem to have hit some leaves on the rails over in my Pullman Car build and have been stymied by my nemesis, the unassuming but terrifying nightmare otherwise known as... the paint job, I thought I should try and refresh my batteries by trying a diversion - namely, starting self flagellation another build. I've had this one in the stash for a while, and my interest was sparked by @HL-10's very nice Fly 1:32 Wessex build (sorry, don't know how to add that nice little box thingie with the preview) so I thought what the heck, let's give it a go. What's the worst that can happen ? Well, let's get some things straight before we start... this will not be a quick build. I just can't do quick builds. Also, as my slightly battered psyche joyrides on the sinusoidal monorail that is mojo, I will probably switch back and forth between this build and the Pullman Car to keep things (namely me) interested. Scratchbuilding? Well it goes without saying - yes, there will be lots of scratch building. There may even be some 3D printed parts or some resin parts cast up. Let's wait and see shall we? So what are we dealing with here ? Well, here's a couple of bits of 1/32 Wessex taped up and sitting in front of my 1/32 Pullman Car (yes, it's just the chassis so far, and yes, it's upside down). I never realized just how close they were in size to each other before. I'm going to need a bigger display case. and we're off! I actually glued two parts together 'scuse the 1:1 feet photobombing the picture. As this thread continues, I'll try and (constructively) review the kit. So far there are some nice aspects, and some not so nice aspects that I have come across. The most immediately apparent is the lack of any alignment features which is proving troublesome, particularly as the parts also have different wall thickness - you can't just go and glue a tab on the back of one part as the surfaces then end up at different heights. Then, part edges aren't square - tale a look at the gap on the reverse face here. (That will be dealt with later after the glue has cured) So, a short post to start the proceedings, but more to follow as mojo is rising
  2. I have been making threatening noises about this build for some time now - and now it's time for me to make a start. I have been gathering materials and resources over the last few months - still a few critical items to lay my hands on but I think I have enough to make a start. A bit of history: A few years back I was lucky enough to be given the job of redesigning an original Pullman carriage. The owner wanted it to run on the tracks again and after a spate of rail crashes in the UK, rail regulations were tightened considerably. This carriage was originally a wooden bodied carriage so there was no way the authorities were going to let that back on the tracks without some serious modifications. My job was to survey the carriage and come up with a design (in steel) that would allow it back on the tracks. I was lucky in that many original features were still contained in that wooden shell, which we were able to reuse. In short, we brought the carriage up to Edinburgh, removed (or rather, smashed) the wooden structure until we were left with just the chassis. The carriage was then rebuilt (in steel) as close to the original design as we could, while being very sympathetic to the original styling. Since then I have always wanted to build a scale model of the carriage - I still have all the drawings I made during that two year stint, and my model is going to be based on those, at 1/32 scale. I have some idea of how I am going to tackle some of the build, but mainly no idea about most of it. I just know that I am going to have to scratch just about everything. Here's a few shots of the drawings I am working with. First up, the chassis and sideframe structure.... (just an overview) The vestibule ends - which gave us a lot of trouble to design, as structurally, they take the brunt of any collision forces. Incidentally, my name, along with others on the project team, has been stamped on the shear plate in the vestibule ceiling. Lastly, here's what the carriage should end up looking like. This particular carriage was important as it was the last of it's type ever constructed, way back in 1951. Unusually, it has square windows at the kitchen and toilet areas - these were usually oval on Pullmans. I believe this is running today and can be booked for private charters - a bit more expensive than your standard BR ticket though. As always with my builds, this is not going to be a quick one - I reckon on about two years or more to build this one, but I have to make a start somewhere! So, to begin, the chassis plans printed out to 1/32 scale Some bits and bobs ready to begin. As you can see, this is going to end up around 600mm or so in length The first cuts begin.... oops did I mention that I am building the chassis in brass ? I should also mention that I am going to try and stay as true as possible to the original chassis structure/design. What on earth am I doing here??? Too late - I've started..... now I just need to learn how to solder lumps of brass together btw I placed this thread in the vehicles section as it seems to get a lot more traffic than the trains forum. Mods feel free to move it if I have broken any laws
  3. Greetings, All - this is my debut, so please be gentle! After many years of messing about I decided to get serious and tackle the stash. First up is the Revell 1/32 Stuka which I understand is actually Hasegawa plastic. I used the Eduard Interior & Exterior PE, the Eduard masks, the HGW fabric seat belts and Quickboost resin (exhausts, propellor blades & machine gun barrels). The interior is a mini-project on its own and I discovered that (in this scale), some thicknesses of guitar strings do a very good job of resembling hoses and cables in terms of texture & bendability (new word). The exterior came together reasonably easily, with Vallejo's plastic putty used from time to time to make good my own clumsiness in jointing. I found the seating of the canopy pieces on the fuselage frames quite problematic, and fitting the rear-facing machine guns through the tiny opening while preserving the minute PE gun sights on the ends of the barrels tested the limits of my patience. I have always appreciated the look of the eastern front Luftwaffe aircraft that received field-applied "whitewash" which subsequently wore off. As a tip: this is a great way to ease into model building and painting as you have multiple opportunities to cover your mistakes! These two reference images describe the look I was going for: Because I was going to cover them up anyway, I used some old Xtracrylix paints for the upper surfaces (RLM70 & RLM71) and for the undersides. I find Xtracrylix quite tough to use as it ends up splotchy within 90-odd seconds of use and the only way forward is to regularly remove the airbrush's (Iwata Neo-CN) nozzle cap and clean up. I thinned the paints with Xtracrylix thinners, without which I find the paints unusable. After some hairspray and because I wanted a very fine misted-on mottled whitewash cost on the upper surfaces, I reached for the more reliable Tamiya acrylic flat white which went went on like a dream. Planning ahead saved the day here, as I had done a trial piece before and figured out that I could only do so much of the hairspray/white/wait/scrubbing at a time. The Revell decals scored a solid 3/10 (thick and clunky carrier film) - I will not use these again in a hurry unless there is no alternative. In hindsight, I would self-criticize the build by finding these opportunities for improvement: 1. I should have flattened the tires. 2. I should have got the aerial cable between the canopy and tail on, but I had already weakened the mast part by bending it so wasn't going to risk it. 3. I got the pitch of one the propellor blades wrong, but tried to hide it by orienting the offending blade downwards and therefore making it hopefully less visible. 4. Golden rule for yellow fuselage bands No. 1: never, never, never use the decal, and always paint it on instead, The bigger the decal, the greater the opportunity for disaster. 5. Golden rule for yellow fuselage bands No. 2: never, never, never try to paint yellow over a dark camouflage colour - it won't work unless you do at least 10-15 coats. Instead, pre-spray a white base under the yellow. Simple rules and I broke both of them, then had to take the long road to recover as best I could. The Revell kit is fantastic value for money with lots of detail and it kept me busy for many months. If I had to do it again, I would leave out the Eduard Exterior PE but still use the rest of the after-market goodies I threw at it.
  4. Hi everyone, I’ve been excited awaiting the start of this particular group build as I’m christening it with the grandest kit i’ve tried to date I’m stoked about it BUT I’m terrified of screwing it up it was so expensive It’s Tamiya’s F4U-1A corsair and the biggest scale build i’ve yet attempted. The kit comes in a huge box jam packed full of goodies to which i’ve added a few bits of my own. The instructions come in an equally substantial booklet and this is partnered with a tamiya corsair reference book. I have my own reference book also. I have made a start on this but have halted progress and packed it away so it stays well within the 25% complete rule. I spoke to craig @modelling minionand he’s happy with this thankfully (I’m on instruction window 7 of a mighty impressive 125 no less) but next weekend I can open the box again! (but gotta finish my spitfire gb first) Basically I’m up to here in the cockpit... Schemewise I’m unsure at present. I’m not sure I can complete this in time within the duration of the gb (I have no idea how long these big kits take) but lets see Thanks for reading this far!
  5. Well it's time for a big one - a Tamiya 1/32nd F-4E Phantom with some extras: Rhinomodels Seamless intakes - with free Resin Wheels Avionix Cockpit set Master Pitot tubes Eduard Placards Eduard stencil masks - my personal favorite, as it avoids decal stencils :-) Quickboost FOD Covers - probably just use them for masking when painting Work starts with the major surgery - fitting the intakes. Marked the area that needs removing Then work with a razor saw and sanding sticks and repeated dry fitting and the intakes are fitted. Then work on the cockpit - once again lots of sanding and removing a section of the end and the middle section. The pit is only blu-tac in place to test the fit, but looks good so far. Peter
  6. Hi all, First of all, many thanks to @Col. for letting me join in, and I hope this build will be a treat for all of us! Meet the Icelandic Fine Art resin Bucc in 1/32. Fuselage is cast from resin/aluminium matrix while the rest of the kit is polyurethane resin. It's a very limited run kit (I believe @Icelandic Fine Art only released 35 complete kits as it's basically one solitary genius [also called Alan!] who's toiled on this for 20 years!) so I'm very glad to have got one and this might be among the first ones built if I can maintain my concentration for the whole thing! This a vast kit in this scale. I wasn't prepared for how big this aircraft is, having never built one before: That's a 1/72 Mustang next to it, and it's sitting on an 18" x 12" cutting mat! Certainly the chunkiest, heaviest kit I've ever considered building - it should clock in at almost 3kg when finished... This is very much a cottage industry product, but prepared over 20 years of research and effort. A mix of beige and white resin shows the various parts - the tailcone halves are more accurate replacements for the fuselage moulded ones. The airbrakes will be mounted closed as there's no provision to open them in the kit as it is. You can also see the wheelwells which fit into recesses in the fuselage, and a replacement recess for the arrestor hook. Both the replacement parts will require the relevant areas to be cut from the existing moulded parts. At top left is the bulged bomb bay for building an RAF version. There are resin gear legs which are quite substantial, but I do wonder if they'll be enough to support the huge weight of this kit long-term. Also included are the slipper tanks, buddy refuelling pod and whatever that is second from the top on the right side. Anyone know what it is? Alan (@Icelandic Fine Art here on BM) has done a really good job with the cockpit: It needs tidying up but the detail is very good, including sidewalls and instrument panels. Also includes resin cast canopies - the obs/nav's windshield needs to be scratchbuilt. The instructions are copious A4 photocopied sheets in the style of 'modeller's notes': Some nice internal drawings and scale diagrams: There's even a limited clear decal sheet included - white backed ones will need white decal backgrounds to be applied first. Fortunately @Phartycr0c on Britmodeller has been able to organise some 1/32 decal sets with KitsWorld, so I've ordered some of them already. I intend to build the kit as it was designed: a vanilla Royal Navy S.2 in EDSG over white with a buddy refuelling pod and slipper tank. I'll see how I get on, if it's going well I might scratchbuild and add some outer pylons/practice bomb units as well. Anyway - this is here as a placeholder/hors d'oeuvre until I get cracking on it early next week. Until then, hope you like what you've seen so far, I certainly have! All the best, Alan
  7. Hi All, This is my eighth model of the lockdown, and only the third not to be part of a groupbuild. This is Trumpeter's 1/32 P-38L-5-LO, the definitive version of the Lightning which really perfected an already excellent design. Although not as well-known as other American WW2 fighters like the P-51 and P-47, the fact that this fighter was already in service before the US even entered the war is quite extraordinary. The kit is quite well-known and definitely one of the best kits Trumpy have produced. (You can read all about it HERE to save having to repost all the sprue pics). Worth saying it's a big and beautifully produced kit, though afflicted with the usual Trumpeter ingredients (sprues of completely superfluous and mostly invisible detail and weird, fiddly multimedia flaps and control surfaces which will not be required!) The build begins with the engines, strangely enough: These fantastically moulded, intricate pieces are duplicated for both sides, and include the complete mounting and supercharger connection pipes. Unfortunately the kit doesn't offer any removable panels or open cowls to make them viewable So I'm assembling them for fun but they'll be invisible when fitted. Slightly bizarre, but there you go. I'm cracking through this to give the impression of progress while I'm slogging through building my 1/32 resin Buccaneer. Hope to provide regular updates as I'm due to return to work fairly soon and don't know how much of this lovely modelling time I have left! Cheers, Alan
  8. Hi all, my latest build as part of the Nordic GB. WIP here. Aircraft depicted was flown by Eino Luukkanen for LeLv 24 of the Finnish Air Force in the continuation war. Interestingly for his kills he painted (stuck?) beer labels on his tail. He managed 14.5 victories during this conflict using the buffalo. I like to call this aeroplane the Barrel! But the Finns called it the Pearl of the Sky! The model took me a long time due to the limited run nature of the kit and how it is as the largest model I’ve built to date. The detail is incredible but the fit can be dreadful. I would definitely recommend the kit though. I may have used a bit of poetic license with the weathering but I wanted to try something (Rivet counters beware!!! ). I sprayed the model all over Vallejo aluminium and applied masking fluid in certain areas and then sprayed the camo using a variety of acrylic paints. I weathered the model using revell weathering powders. Only thing I’m unhappy with is a seam still visible on the lower surface and the shade of the grey (it’s supposed to be black). Hope you enjoy however: Cheers, Ash
  9. Recently I had a bit of a splurge on 1/32 kits; one of them being the Special Hobby Yak-3, partly because I like the aircraft and partly because Hannants are currently knocking out the 'low-tech' version of the kit for £24. The earlier 'Normandy-Nieman' boxing included some resin parts, this one doesn't: Here are the instructions, in colour: One of the transfer sheets: ... and the second: ... and the sprues: ... and the clear sprue with optional open or closed canopy: As I had got such a bargain I immediately set about making it less of a bargain by getting the CMK resin wheels, exhausts and radio set which probably brings it both in content and price back to roughly where the Hi-tech version of the kit was ... and in for a penny, in for a pound, I ordered the Eduard mask set and the HGW seat harness set: So that's where I am at present, I'll sort out my paints next and get started... Cheers, Stew
  10. This is my Matchbox 1/32 Tiger Moth with custom decals.
  11. Good evening and greetings to my fellow Nordic GB participants. This post will be a placeholder until I finish off my Hunter in the KUTA GB and maybe a quick 1/72 Mustang too Onto the kit and myself! This will be my first foray into 1/32 scale and also my first into any Scandinavian subject, which fills me with double the excitement! I’ve always liked the odd looking Buffalo, but reading the stories of the miracles that the brave Finnish pilots achieved in these machines has given me a new found awe regarding them. This is the Special Hobby Limited run, multimedia kit. It is mostly plastic (as you’d expect) with some added details in Photoetch and Resin. This should be a great challenge for me! So any advice or wisdom would be greatly appreciated. I intend on doing the scheme pictured below. (There is something quite amusing and relatable about Eino Luukkanen recording his kills on the tail In the form of beer bottles ). Cheers! Ash
  12. Unfortunately it seems my ego's writing checks my body can't cash... Picked this up from ebay the other day, what a superb kit and amazing value for money! Why am I trying to to shoehorn this into the final month before the GB deadline? As usual there's a story behind it (very short, and can be found in this thread): So basically, this got moved to the top of the pile and has to be built! The previous Hornet I just completed took just over a month, so it's definitely possible with the lockdown still in force. Was thinking of building Maverick's F-18 (link) from the new Top Gun film, because Top Gun of course! On the other hand, the kit box art version (link) is really nice and gives the option to hang almost anything you want from the wings as it's a test ship from VX-9 at China Lake. Could be a chance for me to use the Wolfpack JSOWs and SLAM-ERs that have been cluttering up my spares box for the past two years. EDIT: on second thoughts I'm going for the box art version. Would be a crying shame to waste all those nice decals - I've found Revell decals to be very hit and miss over the years but the last two 1/32 kits of theirs I've built (Hunter FGA9 and P-51 Mustang) have been excellent. If it all goes wrong I'll revert to Top Gun with homemade decals, as the base colour scheme is the same. Alan
  13. Firstly I am aware thus is the equivalent of the Marie Celeste but I just could not find any 1/32 USAF seated bomber crews. Plenty on their feet but none sat down! This is the HK models giant B-25J Mitchell with the Magic Scale Modelling light & sound kit. Painted with mostly Alclad airframe aluminium. Extras Eduard brassin wheels, metal legs, quick boost rear guns. Built for the fun factor rather than going for a technically perfect build and finish but I’m happy with how it turned out. I have 2 videos, one in the sunlight showing off the sparkle and one in low light showing the internal and external lighting. Thus is the 2nd of these motorised conversions I’ve done and it has to be said that discovering them has given my modelling a shot in the arm bringing them to life. I hope some of you enjoy it. Please turn your sound on when watching. Thank you for looking!
  14. Well, it's been a rollercoaster for the last 15 months or so. I never said I was quick... Presented for your delectation is HKM's Great Big Lancaster. Build log is here. I decided to do an approximation of R5868 as she is now in Hendon, so that means the groovy two-tone squadron codes, paddle blade propellers (handily, they come as an option with the kit) and some extra radar kit over and above what the version of R5868 the box builds is equipped with. Again, the parts are in the box; I augmented them by removing the moulded antennae and replaced them with wire. Things to note - it is engineered to extremely tight tolerances, such that paint makes a difference. Once the wings go on, certainly the one associated with the transparent fuselage side ain't coming off again, so if you have any ideas about removing them for storage, be warned! I thought I would indulge myself in spiffing it up a bit, supplying copious amounts of entirely fictitious wiring looms and pipes within the fuselage and engine bays. You get 4 engines OOB; they are a bit skinny but hey-ho, I wasn't in the mood to acquire 4 Tamiya Spits or ZM Mustangs just for the engines! Painting the internal framing was an act of insanity, but if you want to do it I recommend *not* masking and then painting the frames - just freehand the frames and polish off the edges with a wooden toothpick or similar, the transparent plastic is surprisingly robust. The front section was done with masking, the rear was free handed and then cleaned up. I experimented with one of the spare opaque fuselage halves with cutting out the panels to leave the framing... I wouldn't do that, if I were you! Paints were Tamiya for the camouflage, a mixture of Tamiya and LifeColor acrylics for the black areas. The codes and insignia were custom masks made for me, I have a few spares if peeps are interested in buying some. The Goering quote proved to be just too spindly, so it, along with the walkway stencil writing, are just about the only decals I used. Camouflage masks were from Top Notch. Right, on with the show... A couple of overviews, left and right sides: Some close ups of various bits: And finally, these two: I think I'll take the summer off, until the Special Hobby Whirlwind finally appears. Although the ICM Gladiator looks like fun... It'll certainly be smaller! Laters, taters! Mike
  15. Hello, No sooner do I put my Special Hobby Tempest to bed, than the largest model box I have yet to see lands on my doorstep. My goal is a medium-weathered, semi-see through, Lancaster B Mk 1. I fully expect someone to come up with vinyl masks for R5868 at some point, and when they do, I shall strike! Failing that, I I'm sure Mal's Miracle Masks (or similar) can be induced to create something appropriate. I can do sprue shots if you *really* want but you all know what it looks like. Back to work for now. Emerson, Lake and Palmer to keep me sane...
  16. Hello everyone, best wishes, hope you are all coping as well as possible. Just posting my latest effort. I seem to be whizzing through some builds, due to the lockdown, so went with this plane. Im not totally sure I have got the colour right, but in some respects I guess there isnt a right colour with these old planes. So just went with what was in my paint box. Picking a colour scheme is becoming as hard as picking what to make out of my stash lately. This is my ninth wing nut build (currently Germany 6 England 3) and for the first time I came across a couple of little problems. Had some warped sprues, some odd numbering for the build - bottom wings before undercarriage was definitely wrong. Also a few decals not numbered in the instructions. But dont want to quibble as they are by far my favourite manufacturer (fingers crossed they carry on). I also had to make my own rigging holes for some of it, which was unusual. This is a fairly large plane, 410mm wingspan compared to 265mm for a Sopwith Camel, im running out of space to put these. I think I made a few mistakes, 1 or 2 bent struts. I bonded the wing struts to the bottom wing, way, way to early, wont do that again. They are so fragile and I snapped 3 off. Quite a nice amount of rigging on this one, compared to the AMC DH2 or the FE.2B for instance. Ive stopped putting in the internal rigging, as there doesnt seem much point really. But do enjoy the external rigging. Am always reading about it putting people off, which was an outloook I used to have myself, then I had a go and really enjoyed it. Am a brush painter and am reasonably happy with the finish, for some reason, crap as I am at taking pics, they always show up the mistakes and not the good bits. I do like trying to recreate the wood effect on the propeller, there are so many different techniques for this, sometimes it just works, other times not so much. Would love to hear any comments, thank you for looking and take care, cheers, Martin
  17. Morning All Built OOB, I went with this scheme to avoid all the stencils. Wings folded to save display space. Thanks for looking J.A.
  18. Fresh from the sheer pleasure of building Airfix's 1/24 Hellcat, and now, as the man said, for something completely different..... ....Although not that different really, since it's got an engine and wings and flies through the air...but from a different era and, if first impressions are to be believed, a different and less forgiving building process. For some reason I've always liked the look of the A-7 Corsair, aka "SLUFF" (an acronym that always seemed a little inaccurate and unfair to me), but have never built one throughout all my modelling years. I've also never yet built a kit by Trumpeter, so why not kill two birds with one stone I thought....also that colourful box art depicting one of the two possible colourful CAG schemes has been staring at me for too long. There are various reviews of this kit available online, so rather than go on about what's in the box I'll get straight on with the build. Without knowing much about this offering from Trumpeter I was initially intending to build it straight out of the box, since it was not a cheap kit to start off with so I didn't want to spend much more on it. However, having studied the parts I did decide to add a couple of aftermarket items as will be seen below. All of the reviews I've read about this kit state that Trumpeter moulded the engine intake too flat. Even their box art depicts a nice round intake, whereas the model's intake has a very definite oval shape with a flattish bottom. A very quick internet search revealed that a company in the USA called Zactomodels makes a replacement resin "lip" that can correct this fault. Further research revealed that the same company also made a replacement resin seamless intake and more accurately shaped canopy. I say "made" because the intake trunk and canopy set are no longer mentioned on their website and after much searching none are available to buy through any retailers. I thought I'd at least have a go at correcting the shape of the intake so I invested in the replacement lip. Looking at the cockpit and comparing it with photos of the real thing, the front panel didn't seem too bad, but the kit's side panels seem to be a generic collection of lumps and bumps and do not compare well to the actual aircraft. The seat is also interesting. Two types of ejection seat are supplied with the kit, namely the earlier "Escapac IG-2" seat and the later "SJU" seat, although the instructions only show how to build the SJU seat. The parts for the SJU seat are also on a separate small sprue "N" thus: Whereas most of the Escapac seat parts are mixed in on sprues D and E I'm assuming sprue D is the same as that included with Trumpeter's 1/32 A-7D version, hence their (perceived) need for the new SJU seat sprue for the "E" version. However, another quick bit of research revealed that the switchover from Escapac to SJU seats for the A-7E started in the early 1980's and took a few years to ripple through. The supplied decals are for two 1970's aircraft so, for me, Escapac is definitely the way to go and maybe Trumpeter got it wrong by instructing that the SJU seat should be used for these aircraft. As I say there are no instructions on how to build the Escapac version but it isn't hard to work out which bit goes where....there are only 6 parts! Even so, comparing kit to real thing, I think the Escapac seat supplied is a little light on detail, so I decided to go with Eduard's photoetch set, part 32558, which is now discontinued but luckily I was able to source one on ebay. The two seat cushions supplied for the Escapac version are also devoid of any detail, so I decided to add some texture by using a layer of milliput suitably prodded and poked. Here's a picture of the parts with the milliput added and the Eduard set. After bit of gluing, bending, cursing and painting, this was the end result: Many pictures I've seen show a pipe coming from the back of the lower seat cushion, so I decided to add that for a bit of interest...not sure what it is though! I also refashioned the 2 canopy breakers at either side of the head rest out of thin styrene sheet to give a bit more depth. As far as the rest of the cockpit goes, as I say I don't think the side panels are accurate, however a resin replacement is not cheap so I'll stick with what is supplied. So, with the usual painting, dry brushing and detailing I end up with this: As can be seen, I also added a few extra pipes using fuse wire, again just to liven things up a bit. Next will be the intake and installing the resin lip replacement.....
  19. Morning all And finally a couple with its stablemate, the Polikarpov I-16 (Revell boxing of the ICM kit I think?): Thanks for looking J.A.
  20. Hi all, FROG reboxed some of Hasegawa's output including a number of 1/32nd scale models.... https://www.scalemates.com/kits/frog-f289-messerschmitt-me262a--953399 So I'll be building this Hasegawa boxing of the ME262. So what's in the box? I'll be building it OOB and on a stand as the wheel wells have nothing in the way of detail at all and I don't really want to spend money on aftermarket or time on scratch details. Plus I'm not sure where it's going once it's built! Work has started. KR's IanJ
  21. Hi folks, first for a while... Thanks for looking, J.A.
  22. Greetings! Here is my second entry to the GB - amended from Tamiya's venerable Spitfire VB to the Revell 1/32 IXc. I am supplementing this build with PE seat belts, canopy mask and AM decals for Spitfire No IX aces. Box Top pics etc shortly....... Cheers Greg
  23. There have been a lot of these lately so I am not going to bother with box & sprue shots, just pitch straight in...I had been thinking about this one for a while, so had a Plan. This meant starting by jumping ahead and assembling the wings and tailplanes so I could do some serious dry-fitting against the fuselage halves - it all seemed pretty good, excellent tbh with a cautionary note that a gap was possible at the wing root but very easily cured with a spreader, which in the event was not required. I decided early on that I wasn't going to fully prime this one - somehow the primer always seems to come off very easily anyway so isn't giving much advantage aside from revealing joint flaws - so put stage one of The Plan into action, a black wash into all the rivet detail, using the Vallejo wash. This worked pretty well, the wash was given hours to dry and re-activated easily with water to wipe off nicely. It did reveal one curiosity, namely that Revell is a bit inconsistent with the sizes of the recessed rivets - on the top of the tailplane they are nice and small, on the bottom, twice the size. Fortunately the underside is not going to be on show once its in the cabinet Next it was on to the cockpit; should mention here that part of The Plan was to use this set inside and out: First out was the Interior Grey Green for an overall spray over all interior surfaces; the rear of the fuselage halves was masked out and given a coat of silver, then on to detail painting and detailing - The Plan involved using the Barracuda snapshot upgrade for this kit and their resin seat, a very nice bit of moulding even if you do have to think about how exactly it will fit in with the kit parts. As with all the recent 1/32 kits from Revell, the detail parts are quite nice but need a lot of cleanup to make them fit perfectly - as it must be said do a lot of the parts, but once clean they are generally a good match. Barracuda include decals with the snapshot and some of these were used, but they were more awkward then I would have liked. I did not use their dial decals as they simply did not match the size of the dials on the kit IP, instead I used some from Airscale. The kit instrument decal is even worse, it doesn't even match the layout of the plastic and is unusable as far as I am concerned. A layer of Future/Klear and it was out with the Vallejo wash to bring out the details, and here I hit the first hiccup in The Plan; after just a few minutes drying the wash refused to budge. A quick test on the wings showed that there it was happy to re-activate and wipe off, so I am blaming the Future here, it has clearly reacted and absorbed the wash. I shouldn't be too surprised, I know some people find it be a near miracle fluid capable of uses far beyond its design, I am consistently disappointed with its results. I think we tend to forget that it is first and foremost designed as a floor polish not a varnish, its just cheaper than real varnishes. Anyway, I am now disappointed with my cockpit as it looks messy, but am not willing to strip it down and start from scratch, so pressed on. Next time, a proper lacquer varnish before washing. Seatbelts from Eduard, and the cockpit tub is glued to the starboard fuselage half Next it was time to get the fuselage together, and suddenly the fit didn't seem too good; I think this is down to me, somehow I must have not got the cockpit in perfectly and it was forcing the halves apart slight at the front. I trimmed it a bit to improve matters, but otherwise went with brute force and superglue, taking it one section at a time. I still ended up with a gap on the forward fueslage, but on the plus side no longer needed a spreader to close up the gaps at the wing root. A little pressure was needed to keep the fuselage properly bedded down whilst the glue set, but otherwise no filler at the wing roots apart from a very small amount at the trailing edge where the corners are a little short-shot Those rivets are looking nice and hopefully will show through the Lifecolor paints, which tend to be more transparent than Vallejo or Tamiya. On the underside I used the Barracuda oil cooler but did not have the confidence to do the major surgery on the other side for the radiator; I am also using the ailerons from the same set, though do wonder if my set suffered a little from shrinkage, everything seems a little undersized and indeed the oil cooler needed a sliver of plastic card to lengthen it so it would fit the recess. Which brings us up to date; a little sanding around those seams where I have used the trusty 3M glazing putty (highly recommended) and I will be only using primer along the main seams to confirm they are good and cover the red of the putty.
  24. Ok I'm calling this one done! Trumpter 1/32 Harrier GR7 Piero's Resin: Nose, Pylons (1A,7A & 4) BOL Rails and AN-ALE40 faring Custom 250gal Resin Tank fronts Tim Perry CBLS 100 Revell Matra 144 SNEB Pods Resin BL755 Cluster bombs Flightpath CBU87 B/B & AIM9L AQN Rounds Eduard Cockpit and External Photoetch Decals from spares box, Airframe or custom printed Resin Wheels, Mk12H Seat Be gentle, first "proper" build after 10 year modelling hiatus! And yes, I did work on the original A/C, now if I could just remember which pilot had his name on the side i could wrap it all up!
  25. Hi all, I should call this 'Quarantine Queen' as it's the first of several builds I'll be finishing while on enforced leave This is by some distance the most colourful aircraft I've modelled. When I first saw the scheme I thought it was a whiff It was built for the Mustang Single Type Group Build, which you really should check out especially if you like the lines of this beautiful aircraft. The kit is the incredibly cheap Revell 1/32 P-51D which represents an early P-51D-5 without the tail fillet. Mine cost under £30 which is simply amazing value for what you get. To convert it to the later P-51K, I added a resin correction set from eBay which replaced the nose cowling, tail fillet and rudder, ailerons, stabiliser, elevators and wing flaps. This cost just $15 so I could afford not to use all of it! I also added Barracuda wheels, Squadron vacform Dallas canopy and Lifelike Decals. All together it cost about half the Tamiya kit price. The real Mrs Bonnie was a Dallas-built P-51K but at some point was retrofitted with the Hamilton Standard propeller, so the kit one was used. Paint was all lacquers: MRP for the interior and stripes, Alclad for the natural metal, and Gunze Mr Metal Color for the wings. The red was Zero Paints lacquer. The HF radio antenna was EZ-Line and the canopy was drilled to admit the line. Here's the real Mrs Bonnie which was the mount of the 348 FG deputy wing commander Lt Col Bill Dunham. Finally, here's the build thread if you want some tips on how to build /convert the Revell kit into a later Mustang. Thanks for looking, and don't forget to check out the Mustang STGB (linked above!) All the best and stay well, Alan
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