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  1. LOCKHEED F-104G, Belgian Air Force, 1971. 'SLIVERS' aerobatic display team. Kit: Italeri Lockheed F-104 Starfighter G/S (2514) Scale: 1/32 Paints: Vallejo Model Air & Vallejo Metal Color Weathering: Flory Models Wash, MIG Streaking Effects, Vallejo Weathering Effects Build thread: One of the last years last models I did. I liked the kit overall - it's good (but not great) in many parts, like the fit was mostly really good. Some things could be bit more sharper and more detailed - so aftermarket stuff can really enhance this kit. But it's not a cheap kit so I built it out of box, with some little DIY details added. I cracked the main canopy, the clear parts are real brittle with this kit. So I masked the canopy a bit with a tarp, if it starts to bother me I'll have to order a replacement part from Italeri later on. Actually I broke the forward canopy too - but mirageiv was awesome to send me a replacement part for that. Anyway, to the kit. Bit of a challenge to photograph, I tried to do it outside as it was nice day today.
  2. Since I seem to have hit some leaves on the rails over in my Pullman Car build and have been stymied by my nemesis, the unassuming but terrifying nightmare otherwise known as... the paint job, I thought I should try and refresh my batteries by trying a diversion - namely, starting self flagellation another build. I've had this one in the stash for a while, and my interest was sparked by @HL-10's very nice Fly 1:32 Wessex build (sorry, don't know how to add that nice little box thingie with the preview) so I thought what the heck, let's give it a go. What's the worst that can happen ? Well, let's get some things straight before we start... this will not be a quick build. I just can't do quick builds. Also, as my slightly battered psyche joyrides on the sinusoidal monorail that is mojo, I will probably switch back and forth between this build and the Pullman Car to keep things (namely me) interested. Scratchbuilding? Well it goes without saying - yes, there will be lots of scratch building. There may even be some 3D printed parts or some resin parts cast up. Let's wait and see shall we? So what are we dealing with here ? Well, here's a couple of bits of 1/32 Wessex taped up and sitting in front of my 1/32 Pullman Car (yes, it's just the chassis so far, and yes, it's upside down). I never realized just how close they were in size to each other before. I'm going to need a bigger display case. and we're off! I actually glued two parts together 'scuse the 1:1 feet photobombing the picture. As this thread continues, I'll try and (constructively) review the kit. So far there are some nice aspects, and some not so nice aspects that I have come across. The most immediately apparent is the lack of any alignment features which is proving troublesome, particularly as the parts also have different wall thickness - you can't just go and glue a tab on the back of one part as the surfaces then end up at different heights. Then, part edges aren't square - tale a look at the gap on the reverse face here. (That will be dealt with later after the glue has cured) So, a short post to start the proceedings, but more to follow as mojo is rising
  3. There goes the siren that warns of the air raid There comes the sound of the guns sending flak Out for the scramble, we've got to get airborne Got to get up for the coming attack Well the mojo has taken a godawful battering this year, I've now got projects queueing up to get onto the SoD, (sorry you can't come in in those - they're trainers!), and builds queueing up for stickering on the markings production line that was formerly known as my kitchen. I hoped to relight the fire with an undocumented build as my last two WiP's have stalled, so I quietly sat down in the corner and got on with an Airfix 48th Lightning, which although substantially well on its way also has hit the buffers. How to cure this malaise I ask? (and it is a genuine but not rediculously serious malaise in the scheme of things; I'd been whingeing about shingles and feeling run down in my previous WIPs and blood tests have confirmed virtually a lack, as opposed to a deficiency, in my Vitamin D levels so I've been put on a horse-tablet dose of that for the next 6 months to see if it can lift my mood and stop me feeling so unwell all the time. Oh and because I'm self-employed and work virtually every waking hour, I also got prescribed some regular breaks and holidays so lets start taking them regularly too!) The news that Revell were releasing an Iron Maiden themed boxing of their 1/32 Spitfire II made my eyes light up with joy though. Having been about 5 years too young to see them in their infancy at one of my regular goto teenage pubs, The Ruskin Arms in East Ham, I jumped onto their rollercoaster ride in the early 80's, seeing them at Hammersmith Odeon and Wembley with regularity plus a trip up to Donnington for Monsters of Rock shortly after passing my driving test. OK now I have to see them at the O2, which to me has as much soul and life as Sainsbury's bacon, but it's still Maiden! Now on their last tour the opening song Aces High was accompanied by a 90% scale model of a Spitfire; OK a bit of an ambiguous mark of Spitfire and one that would keep rivet-counters awake all night sweating, but it was a Spitfire. As the on-stage version was what I wanted to model I hatched a plan to use the decals and the Eddie pilot figure (Eddie is the Iron Maiden mascot) from the Revell boxing with the Hobby Boss Spitfire Vb I had in the stash and that had been panned for it's rear fuselage shape issues amongst many others. Now the stage Spit has a 4 blade prop, two early style oil coolers but no radiators, 20mm wing cannon and a frickin' monster as a pilot so I couldn't see how HB's facsimile would detract from the Spittiness of this build, but once I had started building the kit up I looked at Revell's painting instructions and found that the stage Spits didn't have a genuine camo pattern applied (despite well-researched serials and codes), and that has proved too much for me; so I am now decorating this as the Mk 1 from the Aces High single cover. OK I know it's a Vb (sort of) and it's going to be painted as a Mk.I but from this day hence we're not going to speak of this again - got it! http://warbirdsnews.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/single12_aceshigh_b.jpg Another piece of the jigsaw as to why this is just a fun build with no hang ups is that I am building this as a gift for a friend who I am seeing on 18 December, so timings are tight. Also my buddy is not that much of a plane geek as to notice, despite one of his other besties being an airline pilot (hopefully he doesn't show it to him!). I hadn't planned to run a WIP for this but now that I'm ahead of my schedule I think I can do some mini-updates to show what I've done so far. The boxes and stickers just because we should........ Now I never ever ever ever ever put pilots in my kits, well not since years back, before I discovered Brett Green, then BM and hopefully proper and better modelling, so figure painting is not my forte. I started the construction/painting with the cockpit and with Eddie himself. I am well chuffed with how Eddie came out btw, even if self-praise is feint praise. Although not getting quite the attention my normal 'pits get I'm happy with this for a quick and dirty build. All painted with Tamiya Acrylics and given a Future wash. OK as we're in a rush here's where we're at now. Fuselage is buttoned up, wings attached with "special aeroplane glue" (thank you Taaj), seams sorted, Halfords rattle cans rattled, some black lines to infuriate folk and the first coat of Tamiya Sky for good measure. Anyways 8 days to go and I think we're on track. Anyways it's time to Run to the Hills (or more like climb the carpet hill to Bedfordshire) so until the next one, be good...... Chris
  4. Good evening and greetings to my fellow Nordic GB participants. This post will be a placeholder until I finish off my Hunter in the KUTA GB and maybe a quick 1/72 Mustang too Onto the kit and myself! This will be my first foray into 1/32 scale and also my first into any Scandinavian subject, which fills me with double the excitement! I’ve always liked the odd looking Buffalo, but reading the stories of the miracles that the brave Finnish pilots achieved in these machines has given me a new found awe regarding them. This is the Special Hobby Limited run, multimedia kit. It is mostly plastic (as you’d expect) with some added details in Photoetch and Resin. This should be a great challenge for me! So any advice or wisdom would be greatly appreciated. I intend on doing the scheme pictured below. (There is something quite amusing and relatable about Eino Luukkanen recording his kills on the tail In the form of beer bottles ). Cheers! Ash
  5. Hello, No sooner do I put my Special Hobby Tempest to bed, than the largest model box I have yet to see lands on my doorstep. My goal is a medium-weathered, semi-see through, Lancaster B Mk 1. I fully expect someone to come up with vinyl masks for R5868 at some point, and when they do, I shall strike! Failing that, I I'm sure Mal's Miracle Masks (or similar) can be induced to create something appropriate. I can do sprue shots if you *really* want but you all know what it looks like. Back to work for now. Emerson, Lake and Palmer to keep me sane...
  6. Hello my Dear Fellow Modellers A former RAF Phantom Navigator David Gledhill wrote in his excellent book: " You could love the Phantom or hate the Phantom but you could never ignore the Phantom". I certainly love the Phantom! Especially the British Phantom. I started this project last September and I was seriously planning a conversion to FG.1 or FGR.2. I spent hours searching for measurements, photographs and so on. I calculated and made sketches until I realized that rear fuselage will need a complete rebuild from thin styrene strips. The surface detailing would be problematic and the model would be very heavy due to extra fuselage frames. The rumors about the future release of HK Models 1/32 scale British Phantom made me rethink the whole project. So I decided to go on with an ordinary F-4J. With this to be precise: It soon became clear that decals for the F-4J(UK) were impossible to find and the white stencils wouldn't be without problems either. I have the AoA Decals' sheet for "Taproom 102" and a complete set of black and red stencils. The kit's cockpit (especially the rear cockpit) represents an aircraft after AFC (Air Frame Change) 506 with the new radar scope and controls. I haven't found any information about the date when AFC 506 came into force. Some modifications started in 1968. "Taproom 102" (BuNo 155887) was accepted by the USN in July 1969 and it went to war in August. She most likely had the "older" style rear cockpit. I couldn't find out if the aftermarket resin cockpits are of the older or later style. One other thing with the cockpits: as Mr Gledhill said, the rear cockpit was very sensitive to cameras during the Cold War. I haven't seen a single photograph of the RIO's cockpit from the late 1960s! But I have found hundreds of photos about those fist-size wire bundles in the landing gear bays. So, I will build the model trying to make it as accurate as possible. To achieve this I decided to check the measurements, shapes and surface detailing and enhance them where ever possible. I will decide later which airframe this will be. It is clear that this Phantom will be "inaccurate" or a "What If" - at least to some extent. For example I have never seen an F-4J in imaginary RAF or RN paintwork! Let's see Here is some of the references I have on the subject. Danny Coremans's book in the front is a must for every modeller. It contains excellent photos just about every detail there is on a USN Phantom. I was also lucky to find some scans of the original factory drawings from the Internet. I'd like especially to mention Tailspinturtle; a former Phantom test flight engineer who runs an excellent site. I also bought some aftermarket parts for the project. For example the seats are a must; they will save you time during the build. FORE! Let's start with the radome. Some modellers say that the kit's original radome is out of shape and too long. I checked the radomes against a factory drawing: And then the aftermarket competitor: Hummm... Many modellers are convinced that the kit's radome is bad and the only way forward is by using the nose manufactured by Airwaves. The Tamiya radome also checks out with photographs. I don't have an explanation for this. I will use the Tamiya radome. The kit's fuselage measures 55 cm parallel to the Water Line and that is some five millimeters short. The Tamiya radome will keep the overall length closer to the real thing. It looks right and it also fits like a glove. Nose details then. The kit's nose detailing is a hybrid between an F-4J and an F-4B. Look at the photos for more detailed information: Climbing on top of the nose. I made these rulers with my HP Office Jet 8600. They are scaled down (or up) copies of a metal ruler. They are extremely useful when you need to locate any number of screws or rivets with even spacing on a given panel length. Very easy and the scale is always spot on. Thank You for watching and hope to see You all again soon Antti
  7. There have been a lot of these lately so I am not going to bother with box & sprue shots, just pitch straight in...I had been thinking about this one for a while, so had a Plan. This meant starting by jumping ahead and assembling the wings and tailplanes so I could do some serious dry-fitting against the fuselage halves - it all seemed pretty good, excellent tbh with a cautionary note that a gap was possible at the wing root but very easily cured with a spreader, which in the event was not required. I decided early on that I wasn't going to fully prime this one - somehow the primer always seems to come off very easily anyway so isn't giving much advantage aside from revealing joint flaws - so put stage one of The Plan into action, a black wash into all the rivet detail, using the Vallejo wash. This worked pretty well, the wash was given hours to dry and re-activated easily with water to wipe off nicely. It did reveal one curiosity, namely that Revell is a bit inconsistent with the sizes of the recessed rivets - on the top of the tailplane they are nice and small, on the bottom, twice the size. Fortunately the underside is not going to be on show once its in the cabinet Next it was on to the cockpit; should mention here that part of The Plan was to use this set inside and out: First out was the Interior Grey Green for an overall spray over all interior surfaces; the rear of the fuselage halves was masked out and given a coat of silver, then on to detail painting and detailing - The Plan involved using the Barracuda snapshot upgrade for this kit and their resin seat, a very nice bit of moulding even if you do have to think about how exactly it will fit in with the kit parts. As with all the recent 1/32 kits from Revell, the detail parts are quite nice but need a lot of cleanup to make them fit perfectly - as it must be said do a lot of the parts, but once clean they are generally a good match. Barracuda include decals with the snapshot and some of these were used, but they were more awkward then I would have liked. I did not use their dial decals as they simply did not match the size of the dials on the kit IP, instead I used some from Airscale. The kit instrument decal is even worse, it doesn't even match the layout of the plastic and is unusable as far as I am concerned. A layer of Future/Klear and it was out with the Vallejo wash to bring out the details, and here I hit the first hiccup in The Plan; after just a few minutes drying the wash refused to budge. A quick test on the wings showed that there it was happy to re-activate and wipe off, so I am blaming the Future here, it has clearly reacted and absorbed the wash. I shouldn't be too surprised, I know some people find it be a near miracle fluid capable of uses far beyond its design, I am consistently disappointed with its results. I think we tend to forget that it is first and foremost designed as a floor polish not a varnish, its just cheaper than real varnishes. Anyway, I am now disappointed with my cockpit as it looks messy, but am not willing to strip it down and start from scratch, so pressed on. Next time, a proper lacquer varnish before washing. Seatbelts from Eduard, and the cockpit tub is glued to the starboard fuselage half Next it was time to get the fuselage together, and suddenly the fit didn't seem too good; I think this is down to me, somehow I must have not got the cockpit in perfectly and it was forcing the halves apart slight at the front. I trimmed it a bit to improve matters, but otherwise went with brute force and superglue, taking it one section at a time. I still ended up with a gap on the forward fueslage, but on the plus side no longer needed a spreader to close up the gaps at the wing root. A little pressure was needed to keep the fuselage properly bedded down whilst the glue set, but otherwise no filler at the wing roots apart from a very small amount at the trailing edge where the corners are a little short-shot Those rivets are looking nice and hopefully will show through the Lifecolor paints, which tend to be more transparent than Vallejo or Tamiya. On the underside I used the Barracuda oil cooler but did not have the confidence to do the major surgery on the other side for the radiator; I am also using the ailerons from the same set, though do wonder if my set suffered a little from shrinkage, everything seems a little undersized and indeed the oil cooler needed a sliver of plastic card to lengthen it so it would fit the recess. Which brings us up to date; a little sanding around those seams where I have used the trusty 3M glazing putty (highly recommended) and I will be only using primer along the main seams to confirm they are good and cover the red of the putty.
  8. Finished this one in the winter scheme last autumn only just got round to taking pictures; I wanted to weather the white fairly heavily so did put a full summer camouflage underneath. Overall I think it works though using the salt chipping technique to allow the camouflage to show through did result in some rather uniform wear & tear, and I realise now that I did not do enough to weather the underside blue, although to be fair the white was a temporary paint that wore off much quicker. I am going to give ICM a lot of credit for this kit; although work was required on the joints between the inner and outer wing section to remove a step on what should be a perfectly smooth plywood surface, most of the kit goes together very nicely as long as you dry-fit religiously and clean up the parts where necessary. The decals conform very nicely, albeit they are thin and fragile (or I am clumsy, take your pick), and the carrier film just vanishes
  9. I wasn't going to buy this kit, as I had already built the perfectly serviceable Hasegawa 1/32 J2M3 early last year and had been very pleased with how it turned out. However earlier this year I bought the Zoukei Mura Kawasaki Ki-45 Toryu kit and was somewhere between very impressed and completely blown away by the contents of that kit, to the point that I decided I needed* to get the Raiden kit as well. The prices for these kits are pretty steep from the outset, about equivalent to a Wingnut Wings kit, but in fairness the quality of the mouldings, instruction manual and presentation/packaging is about equal to WNW's products. A further point regarding the prices - these do vary significantly between stockists, I got mine from Tiger Hobbies and it was over £40 cheaper than the most expensive Z-M J2M3 kit I found on the internet (I don't have any affiliation with Tiger Hobbies, nor any connection except as a customer). Anyway, here are the constituent parts: Box - very sturdy, lovely box-art: Instruction book - yes, book: This is very impressive, as well as very nicely drawn instructions it has lots of photographs of the parts and how they look when they go together. The drawings are in black and white, the photos in colour, as is the painting and decal guide. Paint callouts are all for Vallejo but if you don't know what colours from your own favourite range you should be using, Nick Millman's Aviation of Japan blog has a .pdf available of colour notes for the Raiden, advertised in the right-hand margin about halfway down - for £6.50 it is worth every penny even if you only intend to build one Raiden. Here is a page of the painting and markings guide: The decal sheet and masking set included in the kit: The masks seem to be made of a very thin vinyl, I'll see how I get on with them, though I might not need to, since as well as the usual clear parts: ... in a little side compartment of the box are these: ... an incredibly thin canopy frame set plus equally thin glazing for the frames. I will definitely give these a go, but they look so fragile I am glad to have the standard clear parts as a back-up if in case I break them. Now on to the other parts, Sprue A, mostly engine parts: Sprue B, propeller, exhausts, fuel tanks, tyres and guns: Sprue C, fuselage interior parts: Sprue D, wingspar, undercarriage parts and a few more engine bits: Sprue E, fuselage exterior, rudder and landing gear covers: Sprue F, fuselage underside, stabilisers and elevators, auxillary fuel tank, more engine parts: Sprue G, upper and lower wings: ... and finally, Sprue H, ailerons and gunbay covers: So, although comparisons are odious, in this case for me they are unavoidable, it is inferior to the Hasegawa kit in that it does not include a pilot figure (and the Hasegawa one is excellent, if you have any interest in using pilot figures in your builds) and apparently equal in respect of the markings, as both kits offer exactly the same choices, although the Z-M kit also gives a set of spare numbers so that in theory you could make any of the aircraft that flew with the 302 Naval Air Group if you have suitable references. That's a little annoying, a greater selection or at least a couple of different options would have been nice, as there is very little in the way of aftermarket decals for the Raiden, but onto every life a little rain must fall and I shall build the version flown by Lt (JG) Yoshihiro Aoki, the famous one with the lightning bolts. As for the kit parts, there are probably about twice as many as those provided for the Hasegawa kit and they are easily as beautifully moulded if not more so, if the buildability is about equal I shall be very happy indeed. The level of detail is phenomenal and perhaps ultimately pointless if you prefer the painting stage and don't actually enjoy the assembly of a kit that much - I think I do enjoy that part equally, this should prove it to me one way or the other. I'll sort out my paints and get cracking shortly... Cheers, Stew * ... and when I say 'needed' of course I mean 'wanted'
  10. I Made this 1/32 italian Air Force F-104s maintenance diorama starting from the Italeri model, I added a lot of detail using commercial add-ons but also a lot of scratchbuilt ones, expecially inside the plane. All was made using real pictures and books as reference. You will find the RAT, and the fuel pipes on the back of the plane and many other all around the plane you can find in the detail pic. I've made new carts and ladders and other details around the diorama. The scenery was made using photo-paint and printer.
  11. I started this model as a part of the recent P-40 group build but in rushing to finish it to meet the deadline I managed to snap one of the undercarriage legs and ruin the wheels. The retraction jack from the broken leg pinged off and in disgust I threw the model in the bin. A couple of weeks later I managed to find the retraction jack and remove the other leg - along with the remnant of the broken one. With a paid of new undercarriage legs from SAC (at great expenses) I fished the model out of the bin and started to re-finish it. So, around 6-weeks after the group build finished we now have a Hasegawa P-40E in the markings of 'Texas Longhorn' of 1st Lt John D Landers from the 49th Fighter Group, 9th Fighter Squadron from New Guinea in 1942. The original build log is here: I'm actually pretty pleased with the way this has been rescued - although I still need to glue the canopy on. Still some work needed on the photography I think. I've got a new light-box studio to work with but need some practice.
  12. Hi All Having just returned to modelling I wanted to look to do one of my favourite WW1 aircraft the Albatros. I have tried to look for a post for this before but couldn't find one, so my question is, do I go Roden or Wingnut Wings for a 1/32 Albatros?
  13. Hi there, just thought I'd post my latest attempt. Although Im not totally happy with the end result, I thoroughly enjoyed making it, which is what counts. I chose this colour scheme as it was the only option that didnt involved lozenge artwork, im not a huge fan of that look. Im quite happy with the doped linen look but not sure I have nailed the blue. Had one nightmare session when putting the top wing on. I scratched the paintwork, drilled a hole through the wing, bent a strut. Then when I had finally got it on and glued, I went back a few hours later and another strut had actually snapped. Still I got there in the end. Its quite a big kit in relation to other Wingnut kits I have made, the wingspan is 375mm which is about 100mm bigger than the Sopwith Camel of the same scale. I seem to have become addicted to Wingnut kits lately, my stash has plenty of ww2 aircraft and various tanks and ships but I cant seem to make any of them and just start another Wingnut. Thanks for looking, apologies for the poor photos, would love to hear any comments, all the best for the new year, Martin
  14. Hi all Here is my RAN A4G Skyhawk finally finished 4 months after my last post -it is a shelf of doom rebuild. WIP link here - https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235027738-ran-a4g-skyhawk/ The main list of parts used and some of the detailing as follows - Avionix A4E resin cockpit Aires resin Wheel bays and white metal landing gear set AMS resin wheels Eduard slat and vortex generators etch SAC Buddy Pod Master refuelling probe and cannon barrels Flight Path USN Carrier Deck set provided the ladder and wheels chocks Maketar paint mask for RAN roundels - - fin checks masked by hand - very fiddly AOA A4 airframe stencil decal sheet Scratch intake and exhaust blanks push moulded wing navigation lights & hazard beacons scratch built forward engine bay door port scratch built detailing added to landing gear & wing pylons various Quickboost bits and pieces like scoops a generous donation of spare Hasegawa A4 sprues from a fellow modeller Finally allocated a spot in the display case thanks for looking CJP
  15. This is representation of Erla-built Bf 109G-14 "Black 13" from15./JG5 at Kjevik, Norway in 1945. All A.M.U.R. Reaver sets, such as spinner & airscrew, cowling and oil cooler fairing with radiator mesh were used. The plane had late-war finish with several shades of RLM76 on lower surfaces and 75/82 on top.
  16. After months and months of searching (basically since the aircraft was released for DCS in 2018,) I finally was able to get my hands on this beauty! Of course, the "bug" needs no introduction, currently flying for a number of foreign Air Forces. I apologise for having already started her before starting this thread, but the excitement was too great!
  17. Hi everyone, just finished this and thought I'd post a few pics. Had a lot of satisfaction while building this, it seemed to go well and I seemed to fly through it in a month or so which is super fast for me. I am in awe of the men who actually flew these things. As I was making it i was struck by the fragility of what the real thing must have been like. Surely one dodgy landing and the plane would crumple. This is the plane that Lanoe Hawker was killed in after a dogfight with the Red Baron. The blurb with the kit says Richthofen described his duel with Hawker as "the most difficult battle I have had" after expending 900 rounds of ammunition. As the pics show there is a lot of rigging with this kit, I had to have a lie down after each session If I had one small criticism of Wingnut Wings its that I do sometimes find the rigging diagrams a bit confusing, I know that's a bit like trying to find fault in Margot Robbie but I do wish they were a bit clearer on the intricate sections of rigging. Im still brush painting and I seem to have reached a plateau of how good I can make things look. I can never decide whether to take the plunge into getting an airbrush. Overall I am happy with it though, which is the main thing. What a very therapeutic hobby this wonderful pastime is. As usual I think I have struggled with the pics but I would love to hear any comments about what you guys think, good or bad. I'm now at my usual dilemma of trying to decide what to make next. Many thanks and best wishes to all for the new year, Martin
  18. Bf109G-10 (Erla) set is intended for Revell 1/32 kit. The kit allows to solve major nose section shape problems such as slim, narrow appearance, incorrect spacing between MG troughs, strange “dent” under supercharger intake, oil cooler fairing shape and other small details visible on nose surface. Basic set RC3214 consist of four resin details and will be available also in bundle as RP3214 with our PE sets (exhaust pipes shrouds and steel oil cooler meshes). RC3214 parts list: Cowling for Bf109G-10 – 2 pieces Supercharger intake – 1 piece Oil cooler – 1 piece. RP3214 parts list: Cowling for Bf109G-10 – 2 pieces Supercharger intake – 1 piece Oil cooler – 1 piece PE parts fret – 2 piece.
  19. I have been making threatening noises about this build for some time now - and now it's time for me to make a start. I have been gathering materials and resources over the last few months - still a few critical items to lay my hands on but I think I have enough to make a start. A bit of history: A few years back I was lucky enough to be given the job of redesigning an original Pullman carriage. The owner wanted it to run on the tracks again and after a spate of rail crashes in the UK, rail regulations were tightened considerably. This carriage was originally a wooden bodied carriage so there was no way the authorities were going to let that back on the tracks without some serious modifications. My job was to survey the carriage and come up with a design (in steel) that would allow it back on the tracks. I was lucky in that many original features were still contained in that wooden shell, which we were able to reuse. In short, we brought the carriage up to Edinburgh, removed (or rather, smashed) the wooden structure until we were left with just the chassis. The carriage was then rebuilt (in steel) as close to the original design as we could, while being very sympathetic to the original styling. Since then I have always wanted to build a scale model of the carriage - I still have all the drawings I made during that two year stint, and my model is going to be based on those, at 1/32 scale. I have some idea of how I am going to tackle some of the build, but mainly no idea about most of it. I just know that I am going to have to scratch just about everything. Here's a few shots of the drawings I am working with. First up, the chassis and sideframe structure.... (just an overview) The vestibule ends - which gave us a lot of trouble to design, as structurally, they take the brunt of any collision forces. Incidentally, my name, along with others on the project team, has been stamped on the shear plate in the vestibule ceiling. Lastly, here's what the carriage should end up looking like. This particular carriage was important as it was the last of it's type ever constructed, way back in 1951. Unusually, it has square windows at the kitchen and toilet areas - these were usually oval on Pullmans. I believe this is running today and can be booked for private charters - a bit more expensive than your standard BR ticket though. As always with my builds, this is not going to be a quick one - I reckon on about two years or more to build this one, but I have to make a start somewhere! So, to begin, the chassis plans printed out to 1/32 scale Some bits and bobs ready to begin. As you can see, this is going to end up around 600mm or so in length The first cuts begin.... oops did I mention that I am building the chassis in brass ? I should also mention that I am going to try and stay as true as possible to the original chassis structure/design. What on earth am I doing here??? Too late - I've started..... now I just need to learn how to solder lumps of brass together btw I placed this thread in the vehicles section as it seems to get a lot more traffic than the trains forum. Mods feel free to move it if I have broken any laws
  20. Hi Steve Long or any other ex RAN Skyhawk maintainers - I'm embarking on a long term restoration of an old 1/32 Hasegawa A4 Skyhawk of mine that ended up on the SOD - just wondering if I can get some guidance on the cockpit colours - I've seen some colour photos and it looks basically a mix of light greys & black instruments - ejection seat and parachute packs colours too - specifically looking for RAN A4G colours for the cockpit which I assume might be standard USN? - I am in the process of fitting an Avionics resin cockpit set. CJP
  21. Hi guys and gals, Can you believe this is my first Messerschmitt 109? I've been modelling for years and never got round to making one of these seminal aircraft! Well, I've now broken my duck so here's the very nice Revell G-6 Late kit in a dramatic nightfighter scheme (Red 2, 1. NJG) from an AIMS decal sheet. There are seven more versions on the sheet so it was great value. The aircraft was painted in Colourcoats enamels (still the best model paint I've ever used, and shall continue to do so!) I used RLM 74/75/76 and RLM 02 with an overspray of Night Black. I thought this was a really cool looking scheme and makes the clean lines of the aircraft look even more menacing! I don't know much about these aircraft or modelling them, so there are probably a few howlers - I just enjoyed it for the easy-to-build kit and cool paintjob! All the best, Alan
  22. My first real post here. Finished this one a couple of months back. I made life a bit difficult trying to replicate this aircraft. Quite a bit of dispute whether it had a yellow tail or white. Nose gun troughs were only described as "light" in the crash report, too. Great kit to make & detail. Really enjoyed it.
  23. This is my first entry to a group build but as I had just picked up the kit on eBay and intended to build it straight-away it seemed logical to join the build. The kit is the Hasegawa 1/32 P-40E Warhawk and at this point in time I'm not sure what markings I'm aiming for. The kit provides a Dark Earth/Dark Green P-40E 'Texas Longhorn' in New Guinea in 1942 and a China based aircraft in similar markings. I've got some old Superscale decals on order for Texas Longhorn and I'll have a look at those before choosing the final scheme. Anyway, here's the kit: With it I also got the new Eduard Look set with an instrument panel and seatbelts. I haven't used one of these before but they look great. There'll be some more resin and brass before we start building along with the inevitable mask set.
  24. Hallo again Now I finished my Stahltaube from WNW. Actually it was not an easy kit. My first small fault was a front bulkhead, which was misaligned. Here I had to do some restoration work at the front part of the fuselage. Well, after this my next challenge was the filling process. I usually worked with Surfacer. Here, it did not work at all. So I went on with super glue, as my husband told me to try. This worked perfect. So, after all this, the paint job was next. Here I was in the wonderful situation, to have close examined a replica of the Etrich Taube, some years ago. So I could adapt some ideas for coloring the wings. Well, after a long nerving battle, the Taube I finished yesterday. Happy modelling
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