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Found 498 results

  1. Best I can do with my phone camera for the pictures my friends but here she is in flight mode. What a dream of a kit to build. If you can see it the cowling is black alclad gloss primer mixed with a tint of tamiya blue. I will post on ground shots tomorrow. Thanks for the hints and tips. Joel
  2. Hello My intention to build the Corsair of Tamiya in 1/32, I delayed a very long time. The reason was that I have a BIGSIN from Eduard. My experience in installing such Brasin components is almost entirely negative to this day. Take the cockpit as an example. Nobody could tell me that it fits or not. A modeler has written a book about it, where the secrets for some money may be explained. The manufacturer has made no test of fit accuracy of Brasin components in the Tamiya kit. This is what the Eduard Helpdesk has told me. After you could even read in this forum, my funny experiences with Brasin Eduard (weapons), I am curious if I can finish the kit then or if I have to throw it away. In the WWW, I have found no one, except the author of the said mysterious book. That is the starting position. · Kit: F4U-1 Tamiya · Eduard 63302 BIGSIN cockpit, engine, wheels · Eduard F4U-1 exterior · SAC Gear · Barracuda Cals cockpit stencils and placards · HGW wet transfrers · Montex Maxi Masks mm32146 Well, if anybody can give me a hint concerning the Brasin items, please let me know. Happy modelling
  3. Hi folks I’ve finished this tonight and have taken photo’s in the garage under LED lighting as it’s way too gusty outside. The story of this started for me as a kid spotting at Boscombe Down during any holiday. I vividly remember the Tornado there and it flying locally and over the ranges at Larkhill. Fast forward to modern times and information becomes available that the aircraft I was watching was XZ630. This was the 12th pre-production aircraft so wasn’t the final build standard. These aircraft were given “P” numbers and thus was known as P.12. The kit - I really only build 1/32 kits so when Revell re-released the kit, the spark happened. I gathered the Airies pit, Airbrake housing and Paragon flaps and slats, finally Paragons access ladder. I started this kit just under a year ago with a 4 month break to do a commission build of a 212. The cockpit was constructed but back dated by removing some switches and putting blank panels in. The ejection seat straps on the front seat were placed over the headbox waiting for an engineer to dive in and start her up. The resin airbrake housing was fitted by cutting out the kit part and fitting the resin replacement. A weather seal was added around the airbrake housing as I noticed it in reference photo’s. The resin exhaust were constructed and fitted but it looks like Airies didn’t plan on you using both as there is interference and the cans needs cut down and moved aft of the airbrake housing. The fin was modified as you’ll notice the lack of fillet below the rudder. The vortex generators were removed as it was clean but later they were retrofitted. I did learn that the RWR housing are different shapes for each country. The kit ones are flared outwards at the extreme tips which are for German aircraft, so these were thinned down for an RAF version. The tailplane leading edges were straightened removing the kink and reprofiling the leading edge. The intakes were modified in that there is a hump profile on the upper surface which was removed on production aircraft. There are also 3 visible vertical struts on the rear of the intake outlet. I scratch built the open panels for the ground power and comms on the lower side, down near the gun ports which you’ll notice have been flushed as this aircraft at the time didn’t have them fitted. The wing glove was a poor fit and the Paragon wasn’t brilliant, so I put backing plastic and on the inside, filled it with Plasto filler and pressed the kit part onto the wet filler. Once it was tacky I used a scalpel and created the groove and let it set. The nose leg was cut down as it’s way to high, giving a distinctly nose up attitude. I wanted something different so I wanted to try Engine ground run guards. So through help on here I managed to get a couple of photo’s and ordered some mesh from “the mesh company”. With my bending tool and purely by eye I knocked up these, which look ok. I then added the strengthening ribs and sprayed then red. The period of the aircraft dictated wrap around camo with the tri-country roundels on the fin. The Antenna colours on the fin are a mottled brown colour which was actually quite easy to replicate. The Fin staining was Tamiya weathering pastels, the Green/Grey is Xtracrylix which was Windsor and Newton gloss varnished then decals applied and then Matt W&N varnished. The artistic license bit is the refuelling probe. This can be fitted with the guards but I couldn’t find a photo of it extended, but I wanted to add that key bit of detail. The access ladder wasn’t used as it was from the wrong period. Photography is not my thing and there’s not much more to be said!. C65C9732-232F-4C09-824F-5F2DD69EF3F4 by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr 07A2E7B2-7E3F-4959-BA7E-E437194D5C05 by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr D71BFE01-ED62-4B60-A5F4-BED2580249B2 by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr D957F858-FCC5-4536-94CB-F4EF74AD2915 by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr BC196558-7E01-4A0A-97C1-CE2E61D21B8C by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr 1A87F4B5-1FF1-4B69-9F04-9FE6CFE70B78 by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr D6330E9C-DBB8-46E6-87F5-72DC24FB40FB by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr 46F17DB6-85E6-424F-B5A7-60A02E455FA9 by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr 8947E4B8-7DF6-47E7-94E2-2B1622143BD5 by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr B57C25D2-1685-4EB3-8242-55B6D1528EFB by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr F4345F25-BB41-42F7-A355-107049E56782 by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr 34EF27F8-221D-49D7-BBDF-F379E5923D18 by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr 70D0A82E-928E-4E7D-A6AE-A35773B37C2D by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr AFDCB954-6B56-44E7-AF7F-39E9CB21CA5D by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr 7F6598C3-BBA6-4B22-8963-9834923A6009 by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr F5EDCE22-EF2F-4266-9192-56C40188FD5A by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr 28D4A7DC-0280-41FB-888E-4163154CA787 by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr ABC9C2AD-0FB0-4285-8060-936C6989DE94 by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr Any questions please get in touch. The kit is going to the Boscombe Down Museum in a couple of weeks. my thanks go to, Canberra kid (John), MickE, 71chally, Pete in lincs, Julien. Steve.
  4. Since I seem to have hit some leaves on the rails over in my Pullman Car build and have been stymied by my nemesis, the unassuming but terrifying nightmare otherwise known as... the paint job, I thought I should try and refresh my batteries by trying a diversion - namely, starting self flagellation another build. I've had this one in the stash for a while, and my interest was sparked by @HL-10's very nice Fly 1:32 Wessex build (sorry, don't know how to add that nice little box thingie with the preview) so I thought what the heck, let's give it a go. What's the worst that can happen ? Well, let's get some things straight before we start... this will not be a quick build. I just can't do quick builds. Also, as my slightly battered psyche joyrides on the sinusoidal monorail that is mojo, I will probably switch back and forth between this build and the Pullman Car to keep things (namely me) interested. Scratchbuilding? Well it goes without saying - yes, there will be lots of scratch building. There may even be some 3D printed parts or some resin parts cast up. Let's wait and see shall we? So what are we dealing with here ? Well, here's a couple of bits of 1/32 Wessex taped up and sitting in front of my 1/32 Pullman Car (yes, it's just the chassis so far, and yes, it's upside down). I never realized just how close they were in size to each other before. I'm going to need a bigger display case. and we're off! I actually glued two parts together 'scuse the 1:1 feet photobombing the picture. As this thread continues, I'll try and (constructively) review the kit. So far there are some nice aspects, and some not so nice aspects that I have come across. The most immediately apparent is the lack of any alignment features which is proving troublesome, particularly as the parts also have different wall thickness - you can't just go and glue a tab on the back of one part as the surfaces then end up at different heights. Then, part edges aren't square - tale a look at the gap on the reverse face here. (That will be dealt with later after the glue has cured) So, a short post to start the proceedings, but more to follow as mojo is rising
  5. I decided the Depredussin as my only 1/32 model is looking awfully lonely and needs a companion, another racer, again one that was largely ahead of it's time (but had many aerodynamic issues so never raced) the Bristol Type 72 racer . Should be pretty straightforward (construction is very similar to later WWI types but there's no rigging or visible cylinder heads), all except the undercarriage and the ducting around the nose, which will require a bit of figuring. Strange to think that only 9 years separates it from the Depredussin. Keel and formers for the Fuselage.
  6. Hey everyone! Well, here goes for my first build & first "in progress" post on this forum=> as mentioned in my very first introduction post, I'm back into modelling after about 10 years inactivity in the hobby and i chose Wingnut Wings Fokker E.II "Max Immelmann" as my very first kit to get things started again. Quite a challenge as there are many firsts involved with this build: first 1/32 scale model, first WW1 aircraft model, first time working with EZ line, first time working with turnbuckles etc. But i love the quality of this kit and with enough time and patience, i think i'll be able to turn it into something presentable. I also bought a couple of extra's with it which i read would be a real add on: 1/48 Gaspatch Type C turnbuckles for in the cockpit (this smaller scale looked better in the cockpit based on the pictures i saw in the construction manual). 1/32 Gaspatch Type C & One end turnbuckles Albion SilverNickel tubes 1/32 Master Spandau 08 1/32 Master ammunition feeder for Spandau 08 I'm a slow builder, so please bear with me. I'll try to post new photo's when i've made some progress. First photo's below are of the kit itself with some of the extra's + the first parts i'm currently busy with. The cockpit is coming along nicely with some EZ line used for the pedals + i've tried to paint some of the "wriggly" pattern on the engine cowling parts using a combination of Humbrol matt Aluminium and Testor's Chrome Silver. I don't use an airbrush as i've always painted by hand, so the smooth transitions between colours is rather difficult to achieve. But with a combination of acrylics, enamels, oils and inks, i should be ok for a decent finish of all the parts. Best regards, Dolf
  7. Revell 1/32 spitfire mk2, build is complete it just needs weathering and some paint cleaning up on edges etc.
  8. Hi all, This is a build blog of the very nice Italeri Starfighter in 1/32. I'm building it as a commission/present for a work colleague's father who flew them for the Royal Netherlands AF in the late 70s/early 80s. It's quite a familiar and popular kit and there are many builds of it available online. Mine's not intended to be an "event build" but just a simple step-by-step to see how a big, nicely-produced kit like this can be built and adjusted without resorting to masses of expensive aftermarket bits! This is the intended subject: LINK to original copyright photo - F-104G D-8300 of 311 Sqn based at Volkel. It was the pilot's favourite aircraft - apparently it had a good crew chief who kept it in top operational condition. So what's in the box? First, lots of nicely detailed plastic: There's a whole J79 engine included which can be displayed separately on a provided trolley à la Tamiya F-16 if required. The kit provides decals for eight different versions from various European air forces and one RCAF option. There's also an option in this release to produce a recce RF-104G version. Even at the relatively steep price you can't complain about the bang for your buck! So, on with the build! Alan
  9. Hello, No sooner do I put my Special Hobby Tempest to bed, than the largest model box I have yet to see lands on my doorstep. My goal is a medium-weathered, semi-see through, Lancaster B Mk 1. I fully expect someone to come up with vinyl masks for R5868 at some point, and when they do, I shall strike! Failing that, I I'm sure Mal's Miracle Masks (or similar) can be induced to create something appropriate. I can do sprue shots if you *really* want but you all know what it looks like. Back to work for now. Emerson, Lake and Palmer to keep me sane...
  10. Hi all, FROG reboxed some of Hasegawa's output including a number of 1/32nd scale models.... https://www.scalemates.com/kits/frog-f289-messerschmitt-me262a--953399 So I'll be building this Hasegawa boxing of the ME262. So what's in the box? I'll be building it OOB and on a stand as the wheel wells have nothing in the way of detail at all and I don't really want to spend money on aftermarket or time on scratch details. Plus I'm not sure where it's going once it's built! Work has started. KR's IanJ
  11. such a great kit. The only real issue is to build and show engine or fit top engine cowl. I shaved away the inside of the cowl and cut a section out which you can see in the top cowl(bottom right) some bits from the outside of the gun holding points and it now fits over the engine. I used mig-ammo paints but their Rlm02 was called on the bottle slate green. I found if I mixed it with their light blue which I used for the underside and up the sides I got the colour I was after.this also helped with the blend of the splinter camouflage which was Rlm71 Dunkelgrun and that mix. Held my breath airbrushing the mottling lol. Exhaust was sprayed with layers of thinned tamiya smoke. Rlm04 was mig-ammo gold yellow and I used AK aluminium pencil for the engine wear
  12. Long ago, probably 1978, I purchased the new Matchbox 1/32 Spitfire mark 22/24 I made a start, but quickly shelved the kit. put off by the way everything seemed to fit where they touch, sort of, the trench like panel lines and the feeling that the cowl/spinner were not right. this is what the kit looks like, taped together. In 2010 I came across a review of the Revell re-boxing of this kit. https://modelingmadness.com/review/korean/cleaver/gb/tmcspit24.htm It confirmed what I'd feared and added to it. The radiators and wheels are wrong, as is the complete nose, canopy and cannons.... I made a start. The interior is largely a fantasy, with indeterminate "things that don't really fit anywhere. Trying to line up the bits that are needed and work out what goes where is a nightmare: the instrument panel is a clear part that is also the fireproof bulkhead. The propellor has no obvious positive location for the blades.... Worse, the blades seem to be shaped for a RR Merlin rotation: the Griffin rotates the other way! There is flash on all edges and the plastic is hard and difficult to sand. So, What to do? Greymatter Figures offer a correction set..designed to improve some areas of the 1/32 Matchbox and Revell kits. The kit includes: IFF aerial, radiators, props, spinner and backplate, 3 spoke wheels, tail wheel and door, carb intake, nose, cannon barrels and vacformed sliding hood. It costs £37.80. That seems quite a lot, but the rest of the kit is quire good Also there are no other 1/32 scale F22 Spitfire kits. So, I've ordered the correction kit and will carry on the story when the parts arrive....!!
  13. Hi folks There's been a couple of these posted recently I think, but as this is only my third completed build this year I've decided to put it out there anyway. Regards J.A.
  14. Hi Steve Long or any other ex RAN Skyhawk maintainers - I'm embarking on a long term restoration of an old 1/32 Hasegawa A4 Skyhawk of mine that ended up on the SOD - just wondering if I can get some guidance on the cockpit colours - I've seen some colour photos and it looks basically a mix of light greys & black instruments - ejection seat and parachute packs colours too - specifically looking for RAN A4G colours for the cockpit which I assume might be standard USN? - I am in the process of fitting an Avionics resin cockpit set. CJP
  15. Supercharger Intake for Bf109G-10/K in 1/32 scale from Hasegawa. Supercharger intake intended for Hasegawa’s Bf109K/G-10 and for our future G-6AS conversion and G-10 correction set for Revell sets.
  16. Being a relative virgin at airbrushing, I wouldn't choose this Masking Nightmare again! Just when ya think ya got one color just about right, you discover a tiny over-spray or leak in another! of shots as I walked out the door this a.m....
  17. Started this last weekend, with a couple of extras Montex Masks Eduard Cockpit Etch Eduard Belts Assembled the cockpit, and weathered it down Peter
  18. Hello again, all. After a couple of non LSP kits, I decided I'd get back to the Master Scale. My lovely wife bought me the MkVIII Spit for Father's Day, so I thought I'd get right to it. I just have to say, this is, as we all expect from Tamiya LSPs, a beautiful kit. It could be built straight out of the box and look fantastic. So, naturally, I bought a bunch of after market . Actually, as I'll discuss later, I think I may have actually bought too much aftermarket (is such a thing even possible?) I went with HGW seat belts, Barracuda decals and cockpit upgrades, the Eduard exterior photoetch set, and a Yahu IP. My first attempt at HGW belts had been frustrating, so I have left that part for now. I do, however, want to talk about the interior resin upgrade set. It is of course, beautiful work from Roy as always. However, more to the praise of Tamiya than to the detriment of Barracuda, I'm not sure that it is that much better than the kit parts. I've posted below some comparison photos of the relevant parts. The seat is the one clear winner for me. Fortunately it's sold as a separate piece. Tamiya elected not to mold the very prominent backrest cushion, which Barracuda has corrected. The other thing I do love about these particular parts is that they're made to be drop in replacements to the kit parts, complete with attachement points of the correct shape to fit to the sidewall. (I have since removed the flare rack from the front of the seat, which to my understanding is not correct for this mark. The compass is nearly identical. I honestly can't even tell you which is which in this photo The throttle quadrant does show a couple of nice additional details, but the kit part is very good on its own. As you can see, I still struggle with cleanly separating parts from the casting block. That handle is askance because I had to glue it back on after breaking it during sawing. Undercarriage controls. Again, a few nice details, but not a stark contrast as there is with some kits. The control column. The barracuda part comes with wire and asks you to drill three tiny holes to accommodate them. I used a #80 drill bit but still managed to break the part. I ended up using the kit part, with the resin handpiece, which does add some nice detail where the lines attach. Sidewall painted up with paint scraped away for the bulkhead attachments. Rather than try to drill again and ruin my only remaining control stick, I used lead wire and just cut it where it's meant to be going through, picking it back up on the other side. Some solder added for the hydraulic lines from the undercarriage lever. For some unknown reason, Tamiya have chosen to leave very prominent defects in this door. After trying unsucessfully to fill and sand them, I scraped away the detail, smoothed it over with some Bondo, and re-added the detail by scratch. The open door below shows that in progress. I deviated from the instructions and added the sidewalls to the fuselage halves so that I could add some wiring. I just noticed on the second picture that I'm missing a couple of bits that still need to be glued down on the starboard side. These upclose photos also unfortunately are demonstrating my sloppy painting. I usually brush paint Model Master Acryl semi gloss black for these parts, but have been unable to get it appropriately thinned - it either runs everywhere or goes on too thick, as below. I'm expecting a bottle of UMP universal thinner, which I'm going to try on it before switching brands entirely, but does anyone else have a favored paint for this? I prefer not to try to mask and spray all these little parts, so brush painting is a must. Control column and rudder pedals. There is a trick of the light, here, the starboard pedal has not suffered from green overspray. I added straps to the rudder pedals from Tamiya tape. Here's my door. Need to clean it up a little still. Waiting on a new bottle of MRP RAF interior green. The crowbar has yet to be built, but I am thinking that I'll whittle it out of styrene strip. While waiting for my Yahu panel to arrive, I decided to paint up the kit part. It has the usual coke bottle effect on the instrument glass, due to the way Tamiya engineers them, but looks pretty good. The Barracuda set also comes with placard decals. I will add those as well, and may save this pre-made panel for the next 1/32 spit I do (there will definitely be another, as I love Spits and this kit - probably Skalski's MkIX). I just realized looking at this that I somehow lost the bottom three instrument decals! D'oh! And the Barracuda resin seat. First with a base coat of MRP ochre wood, then dabbed and swirled with some burnt siena and burnt umber oils for the Bakelite effect. I was going to give this a top coat with MRP clear red brown, but I think it looks pretty good as is. Thoughts? Anyway, I'm about to go away for the holiday weekend, so I'll leave these oils to dry for a few days and hopefully my IP will be in the mail when I return! Gloss, decals, washes, and seatbelts still to go before I can close up the fuselage halves. Thanks for looking - as always comments criticisms are welcome!
  19. I have been making threatening noises about this build for some time now - and now it's time for me to make a start. I have been gathering materials and resources over the last few months - still a few critical items to lay my hands on but I think I have enough to make a start. A bit of history: A few years back I was lucky enough to be given the job of redesigning an original Pullman carriage. The owner wanted it to run on the tracks again and after a spate of rail crashes in the UK, rail regulations were tightened considerably. This carriage was originally a wooden bodied carriage so there was no way the authorities were going to let that back on the tracks without some serious modifications. My job was to survey the carriage and come up with a design (in steel) that would allow it back on the tracks. I was lucky in that many original features were still contained in that wooden shell, which we were able to reuse. In short, we brought the carriage up to Edinburgh, removed (or rather, smashed) the wooden structure until we were left with just the chassis. The carriage was then rebuilt (in steel) as close to the original design as we could, while being very sympathetic to the original styling. Since then I have always wanted to build a scale model of the carriage - I still have all the drawings I made during that two year stint, and my model is going to be based on those, at 1/32 scale. I have some idea of how I am going to tackle some of the build, but mainly no idea about most of it. I just know that I am going to have to scratch just about everything. Here's a few shots of the drawings I am working with. First up, the chassis and sideframe structure.... (just an overview) The vestibule ends - which gave us a lot of trouble to design, as structurally, they take the brunt of any collision forces. Incidentally, my name, along with others on the project team, has been stamped on the shear plate in the vestibule ceiling. Lastly, here's what the carriage should end up looking like. This particular carriage was important as it was the last of it's type ever constructed, way back in 1951. Unusually, it has square windows at the kitchen and toilet areas - these were usually oval on Pullmans. I believe this is running today and can be booked for private charters - a bit more expensive than your standard BR ticket though. As always with my builds, this is not going to be a quick one - I reckon on about two years or more to build this one, but I have to make a start somewhere! So, to begin, the chassis plans printed out to 1/32 scale Some bits and bobs ready to begin. As you can see, this is going to end up around 600mm or so in length The first cuts begin.... oops did I mention that I am building the chassis in brass ? I should also mention that I am going to try and stay as true as possible to the original chassis structure/design. What on earth am I doing here??? Too late - I've started..... now I just need to learn how to solder lumps of brass together btw I placed this thread in the vehicles section as it seems to get a lot more traffic than the trains forum. Mods feel free to move it if I have broken any laws
  20. The Republic F-84 Thunderjet was America's second operational jet and while it didn't quite make it as a pure fighter (in competition with the superb MiG-15 when they met over Korea, at least) it proved to be an extremely effective ground-attack aircraft - the USAF claimed that the F-84 was responsible for 60% of all ground targets destroyed in the Korean War - and once the usual initial teething problems were solved it was popular with pilots and groundcrew alike; it was tough, reliable and had excellent range (indeed, the F-84G was the first fighter capable of in-flight refuelling as standard and in 1953 seventeen of them flew non-stop from the United States to the United Kingdom). France operated 335 F-84Gs between 1952 and 1956, one of fourteen countries to use the Thunderjet; the kit provides markings for an Armee De L'Air Thunderjet from 1952 as shown on the rather evocative box-art, and it is this one I shall be building. The lovely @Duncan B at BlackMike Models got hold of the 1/32 HobbyBoss F-84G kit for me in time for the Scottish Nationals show in Perth last month and was too polite to castigate or mock me for dabbling in such a perverted scale, but then as a procurer I suppose it is prudent for him to keep schtumm regarding the peccadilloes of others, and as a 1/48 scale modeller himself he probably shouldn't be throwing stones from inside his glass house anyway Here it is: The box is packed. Here's what you get: In a compartment at one end of the box there are vinyl tyres and metal landing-gear legs and nose-weights: ... painting guide and instructions, of course: ... and two sheets of transfers: My Evil Overlord Jamie @Sovereign Hobbies was kind enough to give me a sample of the Tetra Works USAF seatbelt set which will be ideal for this kit - although the aircraft was fitted with an ejection seat the harness arrangement appears to have been the same as late-WW2 US aircraft. I also got the Eduard canopy mask set because while I am quite capable of masking a canopy myself with Tamiya tape it doesn't mean I actually want to when there is an easier option available: So there we are then. I'm cracking on now... Cheers, Stew
  21. Hi Folks! Here is my GB entry, Revell's 1/32 Spitfire Mk IXC which i will be doing with AM decals for Pierre Closterman's aircraft, while he was in 602 (City of Glasgow) squadron in June/July 1944. I have got some masks for the canopy, Etch belts for the seat, but apart from that it will be OOTB. I've been looking for a good reason to build this kit for a while, and this GB looks to be the prefect excuse. I chose the markings as Closterman is French, and it seems apt that there is a French connection with the D-Day Landings, also 602 Squadron as they were based at Drem in East Lothian close to where i used to live. At the moment i am reading a book about the Squadron "Lions Rampant - the story of 602 Squadron" which inspired the title for my thread. TFL CHEERS, Greg
  22. Recently I had a bit of a splurge on 1/32 kits; one of them being the Special Hobby Yak-3, partly because I like the aircraft and partly because Hannants are currently knocking out the 'low-tech' version of the kit for £24. The earlier 'Normandy-Nieman' boxing included some resin parts, this one doesn't: Here are the instructions, in colour: One of the transfer sheets: ... and the second: ... and the sprues: ... and the clear sprue with optional open or closed canopy: As I had got such a bargain I immediately set about making it less of a bargain by getting the CMK resin wheels, exhausts and radio set which probably brings it both in content and price back to roughly where the Hi-tech version of the kit was ... and in for a penny, in for a pound, I ordered the Eduard mask set and the HGW seat harness set: So that's where I am at present, I'll sort out my paints next and get started... Cheers, Stew
  23. My fifth completion of the year (though the only one in 1/32), the HobbyBoss Republic F-84G Thunderjet in the markings - of which more below - of one of the aircraft supplied to the Armee de l'Air in 1952: The kit was built almost OOB though I did add a TetraWorks US Seat Harness set to the cockpit and used the Eduard canopy mask set designed for this kit. I also added a couple of extra wheel-balancing weights under the cockpit floor but I suspect the metal noseweights provided with the kit would have been enough. The kit was painted in Alclad Duralumin with some areas painted over in Vallejo Metal Colour Dark Aluminium as most colour pictures showed a distinct variation in the shade of metal around the cockpit and the jet-pipe outlet and the rudder. The interior was painted in Colourcoats US Interior Green and Zinc Chromate Green, the wheelbays and airbrake bay were painted in Yellow Zinc Chromate dulled with a little buff colour to 'age' the paint a bit. The wing stripes were painted in RAF Night and the wingtip tanks in RAF Yellow. The aircraft codes, squadron badges and most of the serial numbers on the tail were from the kit transfers, as were a couple of the stencils, but the majority of the kit's transfers were unusable due to having something spilt or splashed on them which rendered them irremovable from the backing sheet. They came in the kit in sealed bags, so this was not something I am prepared to take the rap for, but I don't imagine it is a common problem with HobbyBoss as I have not heard any other complaints about their transfers. The remainder of the markings and stencils were from the Berna Decals set for the F-84G, they were absolutely fine though the roundels/cocardes in the Berna set were significantly smaller than those provided with the kit, and had the yellow outline which the kit ones lacked. I don't know if this means I have a more, or less, accurate kit but all the pictures I have seen on the internet of French F-84s seem to carry the smaller cocardes. Anyway, I enjoyed building it and it's nice to get another notch on 2019's bedpost Cheers, Stew
  24. Another from the archives, reclaimed from P-bucket!! Built from the box with Cutting Edge decals using a variety of metaliser paints and foil heat stain effects. It's one of the best kits I've ever used. There's an in-prog build of it HERE Cheers, Al
  25. Hot off the bench and finished just yesterday! This is a commission build for a friend, OOB except for the aftermarket seat belts from Eduard. Revell's 1/32 P-51D kit, whilst affordable, was not quite what I expect of a modern, new-tool kit in this day and age. Some notable issues around fit include: Just about EVERYWHERE! All major joins required filling and sanding, reminiscent (to me) of the very old Hobbycraft kits I'd built in the past. Details were soft and sprue gates were massive! Honestly, I switched to my more heavy duty cutters rather than risk my good nippers to get parts off before cleaning up the flash and burr lines. In short, I would not look to build another of this kit. I am so looking forward to going back to 1/72 after this! But... she's finished nonetheless, and I'm hoping her new owner will be satisfied with the results. Once again, thanks for looking
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