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Found 526 results

  1. Inspired by this topic I bulit my own Beluga too. Here it is:
  2. HansReggelsen

    Comets - two of'em

    So! Hot off the Bugle Buggy build, I sat down and pondered what to build next. Luckily sitting down is a skill I master quite well and t'was a clear evening and no clouds to obscure the stars. As I sat there, staring at the stars, and letting my mind wander, it suddenly hit me: How 'bout a Comet - no - not one, but two! I happen to have two AModel 1/144 DeHavilland Comets in the 'stash - a 4B and a 4C. They'll be built almost OOB and mostly for the fun of it. So - 'nuff said - let the building commence: Cheers Hans J
  3. Here's the old Airfix Comet 4b in Olympic Airways livery
  4. Putty Animal

    Off with the Faireys

    Hello, I'm new here! I had the good fortune to discover Britmodeller recently and have been reading my way through all the fantastic builds, reviews and discussions presented here. I've been so impressed and inspired by all your talent, humour, enthusiasm, insights and cups of tea that I thought I'd sign up perhaps try to take part in some small way. I didn't want to show up to the party empty handed however, so I thought I'd show some of what I'm working on at the moment. I should probably come out with it straight away and say that I'm rather into 1/144 - for better or for worse! The scale has come a long way since the bad old days of Crown and Revell micro wings. There's some great stuff out there nowadays. Although sometimes things do take the odd step backwards... They say misery loves company. So here's my Zvezda 1/144 Fairey Battle. ********************** I've been cracking on with this for a good long while now, so I'll break it up into a separate posts to get things up to speed. I've always loved the Battle. It was on my wishlist of Airfix kits as a nipper but never seemed to appear in the shops round here. Decades later, and I was still wanting one. When the Zvezda kit arrived I snatched one up quick, hoping for a fast and accurate build. Instead I got a Monopoly counter. A wargamer's piece that could be assembled in minutes and was best admired by setting it upon a broad table, and standing arms folded and well back! So... Have at it I said. The first thing I did was to sand off the fabric effect from the rear fuselage. The Battle is an all-metal aircraft and only the control surfaces were fabric covered. Once that was done I shaved down the location lugs inside the fuselage to give them a loose fit. It makes it much handier to open and close the two halves doing a lot of test fitting and measuring. The measuring is where things began to get a little out of control. Using Richard J Caruana's scale drawings and a lot of photographs I was able to start taking spot dimensions to check accuracy of the kit. As I went I found that there were quite a few key areas where Zvezda's Battle was coming up short. A little later I also obtained some slightly better drawings by Kenneth Merrick and was able to use these too. Starting out with the fuselage, I took the position of the leading edge of the wing as a sort of datum and began checking everything from there. The length of the nose was good. The position of the forward canopy was just a shade too far forward and easily corrected. The sides of the pilots cockpit were cut too low and needed some work to build them back up. The decking behind the cockpit was meant to be curved rather than flat. These things seemed fairly straightforward and I planned to make a new canopy so I wasn't all that concerned. The further back I went the more serious things became however. The rear fuselage was short be about 2.2mm. Good enough for 144th is a phrase I never liked. It's the same as saying 9mm is near enough for 1/32. Imagine if Tamiya were out by that much on one of their Spitfires. People would be howling! I was able to trace the fault to the area between the two cockpits. Adding a spacer there would make the observers position the correct length when complete too. Below are a few shots of the build thus far. The plan is to open up the cockpits and show them with a new set of canopy pieces in the open position. The cockpits have been cut out and given a more accurate outline. A temporary decking piece is in place (I later decided to make this from brass) and I've started doing the setout for the rear cockpit opening. By now I was getting nervous every time I got the calipers out. The cowling was too sharp. The tailplane too short. The wingspan was pretty good and I didn't think to look much further than that. Later I discovered that the chord of the wings was just over 1mm too narrow. It's that slab of a wing that is one of the key features which really identifies the Battle, so I resigned myself to having to fix it. Shortly after that I also found that the wings sweep back too steeply by about 2mm at the wingtips. Add to that a number of serious issues with the underside of the wings, and I very nearly put the whole lot in the bin at that point. Eventually though I plucked up some courage and got out my trusty jewellers saw. I cut the wings down the centre, then scored the wings at the position of the undercarriage (the width of these is correct for 1/72 by the way) and bent the leading edges until they pivoted forward. After that I added strips of styrene to get the wings to the correct width. Getting there... After all that I began work on the rear cockpit area. I thinned down the sidewalls of the fuselage and corresponding area between the wings so much that I began to break out in a sweat. I couldn't just detail the side walls of the fuselage as the wing root joint would be much too visible from inside. Instead I made a U-shaped tub from brass that fitted up under the sill of the cockpit aperture. I added a floor and some sidewall structure from styrene and sprue. The first try at this was a little too shallow for the plethora of Vickers drums and other equipment, so I thinned things down even further and made a new-improved tub that looked much better than the first (took a quarter of the time too!). Lots of priming and putty followed in order to correct the fuselage profiles. The decking between cockpits was cut from brass and the holes drilled and widened with the tip of a scalpel. Cutouts for landing lights were made, and various other fiddly bits. I'll leave it there for now. I hope you like it. I'll add some more soon. Thank you all!
  5. I love my 1/144 ww1 and early aviation but have been getting frustrated trying to get the poor choice of kits available to work well. I managed it with the Fokker eiii but the Sopwith Pup has been an absolute pig and it's gone back on the shelf, not something I normally do. I just feel like I'm putting in most of the time correcting errors instead of enjoying building due to poor kit accuracy. I'm fairly confident with my modelling skills and have scratch built before, but never an aviation subject. So I'll jump in at the deep end with a 1/144 Rumpler built Etrich Taube. One of my favourite aircraft. I have been especially encouraged by recent examples of early aviation models posted here.
  6. Here's my Airfix 1/144 737-200, built for the Airfix group build. Pretty straightforward build, I used the cockpit part from the Daco kit to improve the shape of the forward fuselage, and decals from 26. This one really brings back memories of spotting at Manchester in the 80s, and a trip to Naples in a Britannia 737 in 1984 when we were hit by lightning on the way back (as you might expect, there was a loud bang and a flash!). And a shot of the two 737s I've built this year to compare old and new - 737-200 and 737-800:
  7. hi all, Here's my latest model finished just in time for Telford. It is the AW Models resin kit of the Japanese UF-XS. For those of you who don't know, it was a one-off test aircraft created from a Grumman Albatross and was used to trial the hull shape and hot air blowing system over the flaps for the proposed Shin Meiwa flying boats. The real plane can be seen in the Kakamigahara museum near to Gifu air base in Japan. Apart from masking the white lines, this kit was a dream to put together. Hope you like it Andy
  8. Just finished this in the excellent Airfix group build. It's the ancient Airfix 1/144 Caravelle III, with F-RSIN engines and SAS decals from 26.
  9. Hi All! Finally finished another build, this unusual and tiny model: Let me know what you think of my finished model, it's not a bad kit on the whole, just the decal issues were annoying really. Here are some pictures too: Thanks for taking the time to check out my build
  10. Here are some shots of my recent Hurricane conversion. The base kit was a clear-moulded 1/144 Mk I from Sweet with lengthened nose, and scratchbuilt prop, spinner, canopy, cannons and later style exhausts etc etc. Painting is with Mr Color lacquers and weathered with oils and Pergamino .5mm pale grey pencil. Hope you like it!
  11. Here we have Revell's 1/144 Lockheed Sea Shadow, dating from 1996. A bit of an unusual build, due to its shape, with a little care the kit goes together well, with a nicely detailed interior which can be glimpsed through the glazing and the open doors. The only problem with the assembly is you are left with two gaps between the underside and the outriggers on the inside, so a lot of filler is required. Hairystick painted in humbrol enamels, with a final satin cote. The decals were a problem, the set with the model were not in the best of condition, luckily i thought i found a spare set on evilbay. Being aware of ghosting especially on black i soaked the first in decal fix, the water;line decals broke and had to be put on in bits, fortunately i tried the inside of the out riggers first, when dry massive ghosting. Checking my research pics the waterline markings were removed later in the project, so i decided to go with the minimal decals i could, not to draw attention to the ghosting. So here she is for your perusal. All the best Chris
  12. donalyah00

    Gatow Model Show 2018

    Hi all! We would like to present the models in 1/144 scale we have seen during different model shows. Let us start with Gatow event organised by IPMS Deutschland. The first weekend of September we had a really nice day of meetings with fellow modelers, looking at models and comparing them with their 1/1 scale counterparts exhibited in Berlin's Gatow Museum. Relaxed atmosphere, very friendly crew and brilliant surroundings – it is a place definitely worth coming back. Please find a couple images of models in our favourite scale (courtesy of lejgo_inc): Best regards, Marek
  13. Revell A350-900 1/144 'Skyteam' Vietnam Airlines On first impressions I thought this was quite an ugly aircraft but having seen it recently at Miami airport in Qatar airways colours I was quite surprised to see how elegant an aircraft it actually is. It's size is also quite deceiving especially in comparison to similar widebodies. Anyway I decided to buy the kit by Revell. It's a typical Revell kit, a lot cruder than zvezda with quite a lot of excess plastic clinging to numerous parts but nevertheless nicely detailed. One wing is warped which is nice so I've had to deal with that before i do anything by heating the plastic and laying some weight on it overnight. The kit comes with Lufthansa colours which i noted that all Lufthansa a350s have a SATCOM (or wifi not sure) antenna but the kit does not come with one Braz sell a few antenna's but knowing which one is a bit of a nightmare. Braz sell the 'SatCom CNA-2102 Antenna' for widebody airliners but it doesn't look right on reference shots of the A350. Does anyone know which type of antenna the A350 uses?? (placed near the tail) the obvious choice would be to make one but I rather find out if Braz do one for the sake of perfection. Progress and pics to follow.....
  14. donalyah00

    E-day 2018 news

    Hello, Please see some new items prepared for coming E-day event - a propeller ones. A bunch of pitch-black Hurricanes... ... and a T'Bolts selection: In case the the markings are not enough we have a T'Bolt stenciles too: Available soon! Regards, Marek
  15. I recently picked up a boxed set container a Resistance U-Wing as well as a TIE Striker, both of which debuted in Rogue One. I have been itching to build some TIE fighters after seeing some of great builds on the forum. While I'm waiting for delivery of my TIE fighters and TIE Advanced models from Japan, I decided to try out some colors on the TIE Striker. After seeing the meticulous masking required for the TIE solar panels, I decided to try out a shortcut. So I pulled out an old flatbed scanner and scanned one of the wings at 600dpi, then pulled it into Affinity Designer and drew shapes to mask the panels. I then exported the mask as an SVG file and imported it into the software which drives my Silhouette Cameo 3 cutter. I decided to use transfer tape as the mask material since it has a low-tack surface. I applied a base coat of Badger Stynylrez Black then sprayed a light coat of Vallejo Metal Steel (thanks for the tip to @AndyRM101) . Below you can see the masks applied. The fit was close to perfect although the central solar panel section was every so slightly narrower on the bottom side than the top. For the TIE hull color, there seemed to be significant variance between Episode IV (which featured light gray TIEs) and later episodes which had a pronounced bluish hue. At one point I came across explanations related to advances in blue screen technology which allowed ILM to use non-gray colors for the later movies. I liked the gray/blue tone and this seemed to be what was used in Rogue One so I followed instructions on a thread on theRPF which recommended a 1:1 mix of Tamiya XF-2 Flat White and XF-82 Ocean Gray 2 for the gray/blue color. I probably should have applied the Vallejo Steel a little more liberally, but it still has a subtle metallic sheen that reflects the light nicely. The Bandai models are designed to not require glue, which means that test fitting parts can require some degree of force to pull apart. Unfortunately, while trying to remove the cockpit part from the fuselage, I snapped off one of the two tiny laser cannons underneath the cockpit window. This part is a fraction of a millimeter in diameter and while trying to glue it back on, the force of the tweezers on the cylindrical shape caused it to fly off somewhere under my workbench. After crawling around and eyeballing every gray speck under my workbench (and there were MANY) I actually found it. Predictably (for me) the same exact thing happened again with the tweezers rocketing the fragment in a random direction not once, but twice. After the third launch, I couldn't locate the damned thing, so I threw in the towel and decided to try another approach. So I cut off both laser cannons and drilled them out with a pin vise, then cut a couple of pieces of wire to appropriate lengths as replacements. I tried to smooth down the rough edges of the wire left by the snips using a Dremel rotary tool with limited success. The model also came with a black rectangular base which featured a multi-position tip that inserted into the bottom of the TIE Striker. When I took some of the test photos with the included base, the shape of the dual axis swivels was somewhat distracting, so I decided to create a custom base. I found an old jar lid in the garage and a piece of dowel which I used to bolster a length of 3mm tubing. Painted black with a white decal cut on my Cameo 3 cutter, it bears a striking resemblance to the base AndyRM101 created for his TIE Striker. I had asked my son if he thought white, gray or silver decal would look best and he suggested that I go with white.
  16. This is my first post and the third model I’ve built in over 30 years since I just got back into the hobby. Having found the Britmodeller forum a couple of months ago, I’ve learned so much from the fantastic community and I hope to keep improving my skills so that I can someday contribute back. This model is part of a Last Jedi Resistance Vehicles boxed set that includes Poe Dameron's boosted X-Wing, a Blue Squadron T-70 X-Wing and a 1/350 scale Millenium Falcon. Rather than going for the standard Blue Squadron paint job, I wanted to try to something a little different. I've seen a number of people create builds based on Ralph McQuarrie's concept art from the 1970s and I really like the color scheme. The design team for Episodes VII and VIII went back to a lot of McQuarrie's original concept art for the "new" ships as you can see from the half-cylinder engines in the X-Wing image below. AndyRM101, who’s become one of my favorite modellers due to his superb skills, wonderful advice and top notch contributions, did a fantastic job with the 1/72 scale version for his Resistance T-70 X-Wing model and I'm hoping to do something similar at a smaller scale. As with the other Bandai Star Wars kits, the quality and detail of the parts are exceptionally good. However, this kit was unusual in that the halves of the thrusters did not perfectly match up when assembled. Bandai usually has exceptionally good fit for their parts but I had to trim down the assembly tabs to manually align the parts for a perfect fit. They were only misaligned by a fraction of a millimeter, but on a model this small, the mismatch is more prominent. Another minor issue is the central shaft that the S-foils rotate around was too loose and it's too easy to nudge the S-foils out of their X configuration. I found this to be the case on the T-65 X-Wing model as well. I ended up adding some glue around the central shaft to bulk it up slightly and tighten up the fit. I applied a base coat of Stynylrez Gray Primer followed by a coat of Vallejo Model Air 71.121 Light Gull Gray which turned out to be a little too dark. The orange-yellow hull and wing markings were masked and airbrushed on with Minitaire D6-125 Warning Yellow. I used Minitaire D6-109 Badger Fur for the gray hull stripe and Minitaire D6-110 Charred Stone for the darker blocks. Metal panel details were a thin mix of Vallejo Game Color 72.054 Gun Metal and Model Air 71.057 Black. Some panels were painted with Minitaire D6-108 Rock which has a lighter, warmer tone than Badger Fur. Like most X-Wings, there are quite a few markings and panels that need to be masked. I copied the wing markings from AndyRM101 which used a combination the orange along with smaller dark gray blocks on the wings to give a little more visual interest. After blocking in all the base colors, I sprayed on a coat of Tamiya TS-13 Clear so I could begin weathering. Since other builds of the "McQuarrie X-Wing" I've seen were painted in a clean style like the original concept painting, I wanted to weather mine a bit to look closer to the grungy style of the movies. Due to the tiny size of the model I avoided the use of chipping fluid or liquid mask on the markings and instead sponged on small spots of Light Gull Gray using a torn bit of makeup sponge. Since the orange hull markings are pretty light, the chipping is not very prominent. I also sponged on darker scuffs and streaks with Model Air 71.268 German Gray. I'm eagerly awaiting a shipment of Flory Washes which I understand to be excellent. In the interim, I used Vallejo Model Wash Light Gray, Dark Gray and Rust in various mixtures for picking out panels lines and details. The BB model droid is a tiny little piece of plastic which has surprising detail for being so small. It was tricky to paint and required quite a bit of time to sharpen up the details. Below is the initial color blocking before cleanup and a pin wash. Another tiny detail were the red triangles near the leading edge of each engine intake. I didn't have any decals so small, so I made a little mask and airbrushed on Model Air 72.711 Gory Red and it turned out great. I should have gone for a lighter hull color like Vallejo White Gray, but I didn't have any on hand and I wanted to try out my Minitaire paints. I also feel like I went a little overboard with the panel line washes which is a habit I picked up from painting miniatures where "black lining" and exaggerating edge detail is crucial for reading such small shapes. Overall, this was a fun little build and I'm slowly building up a fleet of 1/144 Star Wars vehicles from Bandai. Now I just have to find the time to build and paint them!
  17. MikroMir is to release a 1/144th Handley-Page Hastings C.Mk.1/Mk.2 kit - ref. Source: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235007209-handley-page-hastings-c-mk1-mk2-1144/ CADs V.P.
  18. Hawker Siddeley Trident 1/144 1C to 1E conversion Northeast Airlines (UK) RESTORATION Kit: Airfix Scale: 1/144 Decals: Classic Airlines (by Nick Webb) Windows: Authentic Airliners Work in progress thread can be found here Thanks for looking!
  19. This is a 1/144 Westland Lysander Mk.II from the small Japanese resin manufacturer FoxOne Studios. I built this as part of the RAF 100 GB on Kampfgruppe 144 (see full WIP thread here) but am reposting here as I've only seen one of these built up before and it might interest a few people... This is the Mk.II kit, but FoxOne also do a Mk.I and a Mk.IIISD boxing. I have both and am tempted to get cracking on the next! The kit has one of the most detailed and spectacular interiors of any kit I've yet built in this scale. No, none of it can be seen. The resin is generally very nice and fit is ok. I replaced some of the kit parts as they seemed quite clunky and over scale - I added some aerials of my own, put the messenger hook on from stretched sprue and devising the gunsight that sits on the nose. For this I cut up some 1:700 ship railings and fettled to taste. I also added some etch to the wheels but these aren't very accurate and I may yet do something to improve this. All in all I very much enjoyed this build. It was taxing at times but nothing offputting, but builds into a good representation of a Lysander with the right stance on the ground. There are some clunky elements to it, but it was fun. Yep - surface detail is a bit heavy. But so what. I will very rarely get as close to this as the camera lens is here, and from a respectable, normal distance the recessed detail looks rather nice to my eye. I avoided doing any sort of washes or weathering though - felt that really could ruin the party for everyone. Kept it to a few smudges with pastels. One thing I'm very glad of is that I devised my own scheme for this. The kit comes with some very dreary decals for a training unit based in Scotland. I built mine as a 13 Squadron kit based in France in 1940. The Lysanders took a terrible punishment in trying to observe the Wehrmacht moving through the Ardennes and were soon withdrawn from France, but I was drawn (like a scale modelling magpie) to the unusual roundel. All decals from the spares box. I intend to have a Battle of France shelf one day and this will go front, centre among a Squadron of Sweet Hurricanes, a yet to be released Blenheim or two, and perhaps the odd Zvezda Fairey Battle (and if you want to know what the modelling deities among us can do with that kit, look here - yep it's 144 alright). Finally, with a rather small human and an SEAC Hurricane I'm working on, I'm impressed at how large the Lizzie was. Oh and a 1:1 tupenny. Thanks - as ever - for looking. Angus
  20. Revell A320 with decals from @RICHW for Monarch and is the aircraft my wife and I flew back on from Venice. Thanks for looking. Steve
  21. Fokker F-27, Air UK. 1/144 26 Models. This is the Eastern Express kit reboxed by Ray at 26 Decals, and offered at a considerably more reasonable price (£21 vs EE's retail price of £49.99), including a set of Rays' own Laser decals. It has the look of short run injection kit and definitely needs 'building', by which I mean parts need to be checked & fettled to get the best fit. And it needs filling and sanding along the way. That said, it does build into a nice little replica of the Friendship. The decals were laser printed on constant film, so needed individually cutting out, but they performed very well, and I really like this livery. 'With something else' A shortened Revell RJ70, also with 26 Decals on it A few words on construction. The kit actually comes with complete solid fuselage halves, a cockpit interior, and an optional clear part for the cockpit area. There won't be much point building the cockpit interior if you are going to put it inside the solid fuselage, as it will never be seen! Therfore I decided to use the clear section. Unfortunately there are no markings inside or the fuselage halves as to where you should cut, so I did it gradually, test fitting the clear part and cutting back until I had a suitable opening. It is not a brilliant fit, being too wide at the front end, but there is just enough material on it to sand it back and blend it in after gluing. This is the amount of solid area that needs removing from the fuselage halves. The next challenge was that the clear part is completely smooth and has no indication of the glazing panels. I put a sheet of clear plastic over the cockpit window on the decal sheet and a strip of Tamiya masking tape on it. I then made a set of masks matching the decals, and applied them to the clear part. Of course all this extra work can be avoided by not using the clear part and building it with the solid fuselage halves. Main airframe, filler was used! Not shown here are the props. They are fiddly to do as the spinners are in 2 parts with a back plate and forward spinner. You do get a choice of 2 different types of props though. I also replaced the 'towel rail' aerials on the fuselage underside with fine copper wire, and the above photos show I bent one during the photo session! I've straightened it out since. It is a nice little kit, but perhaps not one for the beginner. Thanks for looking, John
  22. I'm building a 1/144 Sopwith Pup. This Valom kit requires some serious work to get to my standards so a few weeks of work to keep me busy. Starting with a Le Rhone 9c engine.
  23. 1/144 scale Fokker E.III belonging to Leutnant zur See Gotthard Sachsenberg sometime in 1916.
  24. After doing the 1/144 Albatros I've got the bug for small scale great war aircraft. I will be using the Valom kit which seem like a good base but much work needed. There isn't much other choice in this scale either. Starting with the cockpit...
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