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  1. Hello, fellow Britmodellers, First, my thanks to Rich @trickyrich who, with his ideas for GBs, keeps sparing me headaches when the time comes to decide what to put next on the bench. Well, OK I changed my mind two times for this one but it still helps. I built a Zero (Matchbox) once, back when a computer was the size of a set of grandmother wardrobes and all Zeros were white. High time for another one. I already had an A6M3 (Tamiya 1/48) in the stash but a captured A6M2b was the initial idea and I felt the need to build something in the gentleman's scale this time. So when I saw one of their 1/72 kits of the A6M2b at a discounted price ..... After getting the kit I changed my mind for a Pearl Harbor aircraft (all three marking options from the box are such planes - choice not done yet). Considering the scale, the kit matches it's bigger brother in quality, engraving and detail .... a little gem. Some tiny parts which I hope won't fall prey to the carpet monster (even as I have no carpet). As per my own immemorial rules, it shall be OOB except for seatbelts (Eduard superfabric) and canopy masks (Eduard too). Googling around several evenings (nights) for info about IJN/Pearl Harbor Zeros colours, THAT gave me headaches. Thus, it will be one step at a time. Maybe I'll keep it easy (interior Tamiya XF-71, exterior Tamiya XF-76) or go wild and do some paint mixes. Enough prattle, here are the pics of what I've on hand: The box art (the depicted aircraft is NOT part of the marking options) The usual Tamiya style clear instructions and a folder with info about the different types of A6M. Small but very nice decal sheet. 80+ parts. Option for a closed or open canopy. One part cowling with carburator intake moulded on. No option for folded wingtips and no moveable control surfaces. No pilot figure. Tomorrow, tomorrow .... Hey, keep calm, first the very last small touch-ups on the Tunnan you began 8 months ago. You don't put aside what's 99,9999999999% done. NO, you don't! (my conscience is quite loud, but will it be enough?) Have a nice week. Pat.
  2. Thanks HKR Eduard worked in secret on a new kit and tomorrow it will be announced 7PM (Warsaw Time) UPDATE - It'll be a family of 1/48th Mitsubishi A6M "Zero" Source: https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=95280&start=33390#p2448351 V.P.
  3. In 2022, Academy is to release a new tool 1/48 Mitsubishi A6M2b Type 21 Zeke/"Zero" - Battle of Midway - kit - ref. ? Despite rumours It won't be a rebox from the recent Eduard kit (thread) dixit words from M. Vladimir Šulc, boss from Eduard–Model Accesorries ltd., as from M. Gustav Jung, boss from Wolfpack Design, who's close ties with Academy Hobby Model Kits - see here: link Source: https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=4666693050091873&set=pcb.4666695563424955 V.P.
  4. Hi Folks! It's been a while since my last post... parenthood takes a lot of my time nowadays... but -as I'm sure a lot of you do- I have become a "night owl" regarding this beatiful hobby. The legendary Mitsubishi Zero have been a pending model on my hangar, so I bought this classic Tamiya kit from the 90's and decided to give it a go. In the meanwhile, Eduard released their outstanding new tool, but I decided to keep on with the venerable Tamiya kit. So, I enter the twilight zone about the colours of these early models... you know what I mean. After reading and laughing a lot about the very special bunch of human beings we modellers are... Nick Millman's research on his pdf (and a lot of the debate on this lovely page) gave me the last push to decided for AK REAL COLORS... RC 302 IJN J3 Hai-iro (grey, for the ailerons and fabric parts) and lighten RC 303 IJN J3 SP (amber grey, for the main fuselage). So, no more words, here is the finished model, representing the aircraft flew by ace Saburo Sakai in 1942, Bali. Happy modelling to all! Cris.
  5. Hello model universe, This is part one of my Mitsubishi A6M3 Zero. In this first part I created the cockpit section. I decided to make a nice video build thread, so everyone can see how I attack things. In my opinion better than pictures. I hope it's allowed on this forum. So grab a cup of tee and let's start! https://youtu.be/g3MFMRjaRgE Thanks for joining!
  6. A6M2 Update Sets (for Eduard) 1:48 Eduard Brassin We’ve just reviewed the first boxing of this new kit, being the Dual Combo that goes by the name of Tora Tora Tora! here, and already Eduard have created a quantity of aftermarket sets for when excellent detail isn’t quite enough for you. Here are some of the first. A6M2 Seat (648698) This is another of Eduard’s new range of directly printed 3D sets, and it arrives in one of their usual shallow card Brassin boxes due to the shape of the seat. Due to their goal of lightening the aircraft as much as possible, the engineers provided the pilot with a perforated seat that offered no protection other than a mixture of thin stamped metal and fresh air. This set includes a 3D SLA printed seat that is attached by thin tendrils to a slim base at a curious angle that made photography a little difficult without the assistance of some Blutak. In addition, there is a set of STEEL pre-painted and nickel-plated seatbelts on a small fret in a separate bag that is backed by a piece of white card. After removing the fingers from the underside of the seat and sanding them flush, it is a simple drop-in replacement for the kit part that provides a fine and highly detailed seat that has more finesse than the kit original. A6M2 Wheels (648693) Kit wheels are generally in two halves, which means you have the resultant joins to deal with, possible mould-slip issues on single part wheels, and sometimes less than stellar detail due to the moulding limitations of styrene injection technology, especially in the tread department. That's where replacement resin wheels come in, with their lack of seamline and superior detail making a compelling argument. They are also usually available at a reasonable price, and can be an easy introduction to aftermarket and resin handling, as they are usually a drop-in replacement. This set arrives in a flat pack and contains two main wheels with integrated hubs, and a slight weighting to the bottom of the tyres to give the impression of the airframe pressing down on them. It also includes a tail wheel strut with moulded-in cylindrical wheel, which is cast in a tougher white resin. The icing on the cake is a set of pre-cut kabuki tape masks that allows the modeller to cut the demarcation between tyre and hub effortlessly. A6M Undercarriage Legs BRONZE (648695) Inside the shallow Brassin box, the primary parts of this set are the two cast bronze gear legs, which are of high quality with little preparation work to do before they can be painted and added to your model. In addition, you get a full set of outer gear bay doors, which are cast at near scale thickness to give your Zero a more realistic look. A small hole should be drilled through the supports of the narrow leg door to permit the threading of a brake hose from your own 0.3mm wire stock, and you are shown how to do this in a small diagram on the instruction sheet. Conclusion The base kit is already highly impressive, and with the addition of some or all of these sets your Zero will really stand out from the crowd. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  7. F4F-4 Wildcat / Mitsubishi A6M2b Zero Dogfight Double Gift Set 1:72 Airfix A50184 This dogfight double from Airfx brings us their newer tool Zero and Wildcat kits. As well as the two kits there is a display stand to hold both models and a set of paints with glue and brushes. The infamous Mitsubishi Zero was able to dominate the early years of the Pacific air war through a combination of tremendous agility and endurance. Mitsubishi designed their fighter to be as light as possible in order to make the most of the relatively low power available from its radial engine. This weight saving became a major weak spot for the Zero, however, once heavily armed and armoured opposition such as the Grumman Hellcat entered the fray. The legendary British test pilot Eric ‘Winkle’ Brown flew the Zero in 1946. He found that it possessed superb manoeuvrability and a good rate of climb. He was less impressed by the constant ‘panting’ noise emanating from the aircraft’s ultra-thin metal skin in flight and the lack of a bullet-proof windscreen, seat armour and self-sealing fuel tanks. The Wildcat was developed in the late 1930s and came into service in early 1940s. While its performance was a little less than the Zero, however its ruggedness and better use of in with US Tactics gave it an improved kill ratio over the Zero. Lessons learned from the Wildcat were used to develop the much improved Hellcat. The Zero The Zero was a new kit from Airfix in 2011 The kit is part of their series one range. The painting instructions for the single example provided for on the decal sheet are printed in colour in the instructions. The kit’s 47 parts are nicely moulded and the panel lines are very engraved, the kit does include options for folded wings. The Wildcat This Zero was a new kit from Airfix 2015 The kit is part of their series one range. The kit is part of their series one range. The painting instructions for the single example provided for on the decal sheet are printed in colour in the instructions.The kit’s 58 parts are nicely moulded and the panel lines are very engraved, the kit does include options for folded wings. Markings The decal sheet from Cartograf (so no issues there) gives us one option for each aircraft. These are B11-181 From the Carrier Soryu, Battle of Midway June 4th 1942, and F-22 From the Fighting 8, USS Hornet (CV-) Battle of Midways June 4th 1942. Conclusion This looks like another winner from Airfix. The kits are well moulded, nicely detailed and if they build up as well as they look there should be no problems. As a keen modeller of 1:72 subjects I have to say I’m very happy with Airfix’s recent output and I look forward to more of the same. Review sample courtesy of
  8. Hi all This is my 3rd model for this year This time I choosed the classical Mitsubishi A6M Zero. I build this model for a friend who has choose the A6M2 early model The kit is the Hasegawa kit. No major problem on this kit. The sole advice is to glue the upper wing on the fuselage before glue the lower wing. Some othe photos in the link bellow Mitsubishi A6M2 Zero
  9. Hi For my new build I decided to make a model for a friend. I let him the choose of the subject and he choosed the A6M Zero. Like he prefere the "light grey" scheme, I proposed him the A6M2 version When I searched a model, it is a suprise to find only few model by the kit maker for this early war version. In the 1/48th scale I find only two kit ; the old Tamiya who have more 30 years old and the Hasegawa kit Because the Hasegawa have more details than the Tamiya kit I choosed it. I start the kit with the cockpit I glued the panel side directly on the fuselage. I haven't have the "mitsubishi interior color". I seen some photo and try to capture the color with a mix of the H312 and H308 paint I painted some buttons in red/yellow I maked the seatbelt after have look the photoetched part by eduard. I drilled also the holes on the seat. I painted the engine. Hasegawa give a descent representation of the Sakae 12 Now I can verify the fit of the wing-fuselage and it is a big disapointement The gap between the two pieces is very great. I think, the best way is to glue plastic card on each upper wing part to fill the gap
  10. I'm aware that the control surfaces on the Zero were fabric covered (rudder, tail plane and ailerons) and that as such they appeared to be a slightly different colour to the rest of the airframe, (even though many builds I've seen just have the airframe the same all over), but not sure how the colour differed. I'm making mine in the standard grey colour scheme of the Pearl Harbour period courtesy of the correct paints from Colourcoats so using the correct 'grey' for a Mitsubishi version but as I think I need to make it different for the control surfaces I'm not sure which way to go. Was it just a lighter shade of grey so a little white will be appropriate or was it perhaps a different shade requiring possibly a little tan/brown/dark grey etc..to obtain the correct colour? All suggestions very welcome. Regards Colin.
  11. Hi there, well, here I am starting a third workbench thread! However, being something of a dilettante and changing my priorities at least as often as my socks, I thought it might be an idea to revise my idea so that each is devoted to a particular type. So this will be my first Japanese thread, and where better to start than with Mitsubishi's legendary A6M Type 0? This is Tamiya's 1/72 scale kit of the A6M2b Model 21 from their Warbird Collection, which depicts the type that saw action over Pearl Harbour and which built for itself a mystique bordering on invincibility among the Allied Air Forces. It will also have the honour to be the first Tamiya kit that I've built I know, I can't believe it either! Obligatory box and sprue shots: http:// http:// Some small progress so far today, which is limited to the start of the assembly of the cockpit area. I've drilled through the lightening holes in the back of the pilot's seat (which are presumably there to allow the lightning to pass through?), carefully scraped and sanded the seat back, and then softened the edges of the holes with a wash of MEK. I've also used MEK to assemble the four parts so far put together. http:// http:// I know Tamiya has a reputation for shake-the-box kits, but having never before built one (Yes, really! ) I have to say how impressed I am with the quality of fit, the degree of detail provided, and the thought that has gone into the breakdown of the kit's parts and the instructions! I'm glad I've got a few more in the stash, and I'll be ordering some more as well! So there we are! Its going to be almost OOB, but I'll probably substitute a set of Yahu etched belts in place of the kit decals, and I may also use a Yahu IP, depending on the colour.....Because, of course, the colour of Zeros both inside and out is the subject of much debate! I haven't yet decided whether this model will be finished as a Mitsubishi- or a Nakajima-built aircraft: a Mitsubishi-built example would be easier when it comes to painting, but I have a hankering to try my hand at the elusive aotake finish for the wheel-wells etc! I need to decide which way I'm going with that aspect of the build, as interior colours were also different according to manufacturer, and then I need to get some paint! Cheers for now! Mark For information on the thorny subject of Zero colours, one can do no better than consult @Nick Millman and visit his Aviation of Japan blog. And for anyone interested in the colouring of early Zeros, Nick's guide to Painting the Early Zero-Sen is an absolute must!
  12. Hopefully my last question on the subject as the build is now coming along nicely but a bit confused by the arrestor hook in the Airfix 72nd scale kit as the hooked part hardly seems to extend beyond its cover at all and is only just visible. I'm therefore wondering if the hook shaft extended when the arrestor gear was deployed so that it would then be long enough to catch the deck wires but I can't seem to find any photos of a Zero coming in for a deck landing only ones of them taking off. If this is the case did it then automatically retract after landing as again I can't find any photos of a Zero where the arrestor hook is deployed whilst on the deck? Any clues please? Regards Colin.
  13. Hopefully the last question on my latest build, fingers crossed. I have seen period pictures and also scale plans of the A6M2b which definitely show both wings having aileron balances even though they are not included in the Airfix kit. However I've also seen period pics and other scale plans of the type where they are completely absent so wondering why. Presumably it means that I can opt either to include or exclude them, unless there is a particular reason for this apparent variation such as Mitsubishi versus Nakajima or something else? Regards Colin.
  14. Having just finished my Zvezda Bf109F-2 as an F-4/Trop at long last (see Ready For Inspection) I'm now finally starting on my Airfix 72nd scale Zero armed with information from Nicholas Millman and the wonderful feedback from my earlier post on the Zero's engine. However I have a quick question regarding decals as the kit ones do not contain any of the stencil details, including the red bands for the prop blades. I've looked on Hannants and there are a number of options/manufacturers who cover the earlier overall Grey schemes but wondered if anyone can suggest those that are really good quality as my own experience of Print Scale decals with my Bf109F was not great (over scale too and fiddly to apply). The Techmod ones seem to be good value and comprehensive but I've never used this company before hence my question. Regards Colin.
  15. My next project is the Airfix A6M2b Zero and I have all the correct colours for a Mitsubishi built version, courtesy of Colourcoats, but have just one small question. I've read the previous posts regarding P&W radial engine colours but can't find any similar reference/post confirming what colours would be correct for Japanese radials so can anyone help please? Regards Colin.
  16. One of my next projects that I'm preparing for is the Airfix 72nd scale A6M2b 'Zero' using the kit decals for the Pearl Harbour example flown from the Akagi, so overall grey with black (black/blue?) cowling. My one question is regarding the correct colour of the prop blades as the instructions say silver at the front and black on the reverse but I've also seen references to blades on the Zero being painted brown. Having never built any WW2 Japanese aircraft before I just want to check which is correct , and if it is the former then what if any logic was there for this? I've discovered that Lifecolor still produce the Aotake metallic blue for the internal structures/wheel wells so this is now on order but in terms of enamels, Humbrol/Xtracolor/Colourcoats, can anyone please suggest the best grey to use? I know Xtracolor do an IJN Grey and Colourcoats do Hairyokushoku IJA Grey but they seem to be distinctly different shades, and Humbrol have no specific grey labelled as being appropriate for WW2 IJN aircraft. Regards Colin.
  17. Here is the gear detail and some other details of the A6M5a Zero. 零式艦上戦闘機 , rei-shiki kanjō sentōki, Typ zero carrierbased fighter, Rei-sen or Zero-sen. Again from the Mitsubishi museum close to Nagoya. With support from Arawasi and Mitsubishi company! Just to show you all important details for modelling. Happy modelling
  18. A6M5c | Hobby Boss | 1/72 W.O. Takeo Tanimizu, Pilot, Imperial Japanese Navy, 203rd Flying Group, 1945 I finished this on 10/13/2020. This is the Hobby Boss A6M5c, which I built to replace the Hasegawa boxing of Tanimizu's aircraft which I built in late High School and whose molds date to 1972 (according to scalemates). I love the double cannons in the wings, it just looks dangerous! Although in reality the extra weight without a more powerful engine made it a dog. But it looked cool. Of the 1/72 offerings of the 5c, the Hobby Boss was the one that had very few negative comments. As is typical with Hobby Boss there are some glaring omissions. I found they forgot a headrest, which I had to fabricate, the loop antenna in the cockpit, and missed the fourth exhaust stack on the starboard side. The exhaust stack I noticed in the 11th hour, but was able to make a new one that is reasonable. HB provided a cut out in the cowling for a 4th stack, except they provided it on both sides. If I'd noticed earlier, I would've tried to fix that. On the plus side, this was one of the better HB kits I've done in terms of fit and also had very few raised mold lines to sand off. Comparing it with the Hasegawa, the wing guns are longer, the pitot tube is shorter and the canopy doesn't stick up as high. All of these are not very noticeable when the model is sitting by itself. Takeo Tanimizu had 18 victories. He is known for his regrets later in life, praying nightly at his in-home Buddhist altar for the men he killed. He is equally known for an incident where he flew low over a US pilot he downed in the sea to throw him his life preserver. He lived through the war and into the late 1990s. Paints: Mr. Color C15 (Top) > Mr. Color C35 (bottom) > cowl was Hataka RLM 66 (black gray) dusted with black until it looked about right > aotake in wheel wells was 3 parts Testors Model Master metallic blue with 1 part Testors green. Decals: Kit decals WIP is here. The cockpit had more detail than typical HB kits, but it was pretty inaccurate. I tried to make it at least a little more accurate, even though it is very hard to see through the somewhat opaque canopy. Here's the headrest I made and the loop antenna, which I later painted silver: And here it is next to the Hasegawa I made a long time ago: As always, questions, comments and constructive criticism welcomed!
  19. I decided I needed to get out of my rut of Spitfire/Bf-109/Fw-190... I was set to do yet another FW, but decided to head to the Pacific instead. I've only done 2 Zeros in my life; the first was a 1/32 Revell that I snatched from my Dad's stash when I was 13 (Sorry!), and the second was a Hasegawa 1/72 A6M5c that is still on my shelf and seen below: You know you're in trouble when spiders are nesting in your landing gear wells (sorry for the bad pic) My guess is that I did this in late High School. I hadn't learned to do weathering yet, nor how to do decals properly. I was paying more attention to my painting (being more careful), and decals (getting them straight). This is after I gave up on the Badger 150 but before my Dad got our first Aztek, so I'm pretty sure this is late High School. So, this build is going to be a replacement build. About a year ago I did some research to find a more modern kit of the A6M5c. I love the double cannons in the wings, it just looks dangerous! Although in reality the extra weight without a more powerful engine made it a dog. But it looked cool. Of the 1/72 offerings of the 5c, the Hobby Boss was the one that had very few negative comments. Plus it had Takeo Tanimizu's marking, which I really wanted to do anyway. I did some reading and one resource said that all the 5c's were made by Mitsubishi. The aviation of Japan website shows the Mitsubishi cockpit color to be darker than I thought and the closest match I could find was Model master enamel FS34087 (Olive Green). The cockpit has more detail than many other Hobby Boss kits, and probably more than my original Hasegawa. The seat is wrong, however, so I will start by trying to make it look a little more accurate. Although, I'm not sure how much effort to put in it because the Hobby Boss canopies are usually a little opaque, making it hard to see details! More later...
  20. This is the Hasegawa A6M5 1/48 kit with some Eduard etch seat belts with the decals from Rising Decals Dying Sun sets. The kit itself was rescued from the shelf of doom, I can't remember why it was put there as the model itself isn't bad. The decals are also top notch. ATAIU-SEA stands for Allied Technical Air Intelligence Unit -South East Asia and a number of Japanese aircraft wore these markings post war while being the subject of evaluation by the RAF. I believe that the centre section of this aircraft is now in the Imperial War Museum and the only section of the ATAIU's aircraft to survive.
  21. A reasonable person might thing that the imposition of 'working from home' would be an ideal opportunity for starting one of those big modelling projects. No travelling time? Lunch breaks at the workbench. At least for me, its turned out to be the opposite. It seems to take far longer to get work things done than it used to, and I'm now in need of a new laptop battery. But, a few minutes here and there have enabled be to finish a couple of things that were being overlooked, including Tamiya's original A6M2 from the best part of half a century ago. It says a lot for the quality of the model when first released that it holds up quite well these days. This one has a True Details cockpit set, obtained very cheaply at a show, substituted for the somewhat hypothetical Tamiya offering. Its meant for the Hasegawa version, but fits the Tamiya one with minimal modification. Decals by Eagle Strike (wot no data panel?), over Nick Millman's recipe of a mix 50% each of Gunze Sangyo H70 RLM02 and H336 Hemp Village Photos deny the existence of my account, so first use of Microsoft One Drive for photo posting. Let's see how well it works
  22. The first of last week's "isolation" projects completed is Su-25, the Peruvian Air Force. About the model itself I will not waste the words, quite poor but easy to assemble and does not require some major waste of time. They said aftermarket, everything else out of the box. Here's the picture. Regards to the next project, probably tomorrow.
  23. As discussed in my A5M4 thread I thought I might do another Japanese fighter. As I had a detail set for a Zero, that's what I'll do. I have several sweet Zero, including a floater but the individual packs annoyingly don't have hinomaru, so the only option was the boxed A6M3 in the grey/green scheme. As is sensible tradition I start with the office.. The Griffon photo etch set works wonders and speeds up/looks better than what I normally spend days scratching.
  24. One of my favourite YT channels for naval history Drachinifel just featured a slightly longer than the standard 5 minute guide - at two and a half hours - about the A6M Zero. During the originally for 30 minutes planned talk, a well researched picture is created dealing with common misconceptions and myths, used tactics, development and more. Research drawn from known good sources such as Nick Millman and Richard Dunn, but also many more. A list of sources is included in the comment section, well worth the time!
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