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  1. Hello everyone… I’ve had a varied model-making year, covering weekend Airfix aircraft builds, a handful of 1/35 and 1/72 armour types, a bit of diorama and figure sculpting work and so on. The projects that I’ve enjoyed the most are the scratchbuilds though – the satisfaction of developing and improving new techniques has been the thing that’s really driven me more than anything. My current Miniart M3 Lee is a marvellous kit and I’ve been loving the detail, but I really feel the need to “scratch that itch” so I’m embarking on another armour scratchbuild. I hope to keep the M3 going at the same time, so my tardy progress on that shouldn’t be too badly affected. This time it’s the Pierce Arrow AA truck. This should be quite similar to the Wolseley armoured car I did a while back… …(in fact, later models of this AA truck were apparently based on the Wolseley truck as opposed to Pierce Arrow) but there are some different challenges this time. Firstly, this vehicle has spoked wheels as opposed to the covered ones of the armoured car, so there’s a fresh skill to tackle straight away. There’s also a fair bit more information that I’ve been able to find on-line. This is a double-edged sword of course; no two photos or drawings are the same, and there’s less excuse to omit interior detail. The fact that it’s partially open-topped comes into play for this as well of course. I (rather hurriedly, in my excitement) ordered some fresh plasticard and tube from ebay. Once it arrived I realised I’d bought 0.5mm glossy white card rather than the nice matt 0.75mm I’ve just discovered I’d used for my last two scratchbuilds, so I had to get another batch of the correct stuff. Here’s the basic ingredients (no the most thrilling of WIP photos I'm afraid): This vehicle isn’t covered by the Landships II card model collection, so I needed to draw up my own plans. Finding a pretty good 4-view colour drawing was a promising start, so this was loaded into CAD and scaled to match the wheelbase dimension I found on Wikipedia. From this, I traced over each panel and then stretched each as necessary to get face-on template views. The truck is pretty basic in construction with no funky angles, so this was easy enough to do. The template parts were then printed onto A4 paper and are now awaiting a can of spray mount before I start drilling for rivets and cutting them all out. This is what I’m aiming for – it looks pretty cool in this picture methinks… Massive gun, which I’m really looking forward to making. Here we go….!
  2. A suggestion. Well in advance as this ere forum works that way and it takes time to get the required numbers A 'Fokker' GB in 2022 I noticed that Antony Fokker started his first company on 22nd February 1912 So 2022 will 110 years of Fokker There are plenty of models, from the E.I / II / III / IV series, the ubiquitous Dr.1, D. VII and the D.XXI to the F.27 100 and more, and all sorts of numbers and types in between. Excluded are the types that Fokker bought in and sold on as a sales agent Anyone for it? 1. Black Knight (me, of course) 2. Corsairfoxfouruncle 3. Marklo 4. Andwil 5. John Masters 6. TonyOD (?) 7. Ted 8. JOCKNEY 9. Tim R-T-C 10. stevehed 11. Arniec 12. Rob S 13. Torbjorn 14. Peter Lloyd 15. RC Boater Bill 16. 2996 Victor 17. zebra 18. ColonelKrypton 19. dnl42 20. Blitz23 21. GREG DESTEC 22. ??
  3. Takom continues to surprise us with its choice of subjects. 1:350 Zeppelins; the P and Q class becomes half a meter long in that scale - in the same scale as many WW1 ship kits. The Q-class is of interest to me as L-20 drifted ashore in Norway and some bits and pieces are on show in the museum at Stavanger-Sola.
  4. Hi everybody, After recently completing my first ever scratch build I am jumping back into the deep end. The BE2c has long been a favourite of mine but has never been available as a 1/32 kit so the only option is to get stuck in and have a go at scratch building one. The version I want to model has a Royal Aircraft Factory 1a engine which is not available as an after market kit so that is where I shall start. The engine looks quite complicated so let's just see how far this goes, if nothing else the modelling Gods might take pity and give us a kit. Here is a picture from the front; Royal Aircraft Factory 1a V8 engine by Richard Williams, on Flickr Scary stuff! The crank case at least is just a box and the massive fly wheel is just a circle at the back. A few bits and bobs stuck together gives me this; RAF 1A V8 engine by Richard Williams, on Flickr The mounting beams are left long for ease of handling and will be cut down once the frame is together. RAF 1A V8 engine by Richard Williams, on Flickr Not he most impressive work for sure but it's a start! I don't know the name for the tear drop shaped housing that the prop shaft goes into, whatever it is called I made with laminated 2mm styrene sheet cut and filed into shape. Handily this gave me a centre line for adding the bolt fixing channels. The bolts (correct number of!) were added by using a similar method to my riveting method. 2mm lengths of 0.5mm brass tube were cut and using a paintbrush were applied with Future floor wax. Nice and easy because it can be rolled into position. 20210811_224652 by Richard Williams, on Flickr Once dried super thin super glue is applied to each one and zapped with Zip Kicker. Hopefully this gives the look of them being part of the casting rather than separate parts stuck on. A quick lick of paint to see how it looks reveals a few blobs of CA glue that need to go but I quite like the overall look. 20210811_231525 by Richard Williams, on Flickr Cooling fins were added to by cutting tiny pieces of styrene. Gel super glue was added to the engine part and using tweezers the fins were added. Great care needed to be taken to hole the fins so the tweezers didn't touch the glue, not 100% successful but at least nothing pinged across the room. 20210812_193956 by Richard Williams, on Flickr Again, super thin super glue was run down each fin in the hope of making them look like part of a 1 piece casting. The main parts are just tacked together with a tiny blob of glue for ease of handling but it is beginning to look like an engine! I won't have any time for a few days so here it will stay for now. Thanks for watching, all comments, criticisms and advice gratefully received. Have a great weekend. Richie
  5. I'm going to join this interesting GB with an ancient Revell Nieuport 28. It's tiny! I picked this kit up recently at the 'Antiques Warehouse' I mentioned during the last Frog GB and even though that stash is sorely depleted (all the Heller sailing ships have gone) this little beauty was still there (along with a Frog Bleriot XI). The camouflage and markings are pretty striking and this particular aircraft was flown by Lt. Douglas Campbell of the A.E.F. Simple construction and the transfers look to be in good condition. This kit is from the 1960's Very light grey, almost translucent, plastic with a little flash on one of the cabane struts. I think I'll enjoy this one
  6. I realise that my AA truck project is now actually becoming two projects in one – the truck itself… ….and the diorama for it, so I thought I’d best split it into two threads. This first post is a repeat of what I’ve already posted in the truck thread. Whilst I’m building this for the AA truck, I may use this scene as a “standard” base for photographing all sorts of vehicles in the future. TheAA2000’s recent fantastic work inspired me… So I want to try something similar (or at least as close as I can get). The use of a strong vertical element is definitely a winner in composition terms, so I’m planning to ape his superb work and construct a building. I did consider building the tail of a German aerial victim, crashed into the ground, but 1/35 scale WW1 German aircraft kits are a bit thin on the ground, and scratching one would be more work than the actual AA truck, plus I couldn’t quite visualise how I’d do the wreckage, so a building it will be. I also usually include figures. I like doing figures, but I have much room for improvement, and for this one, I’m currently inclined to leave them out. One of my reference photos appears to show the truck in a French(?) street with a rather formal building behind. I browsed the Miniart series of buildings on-line and found one I could base mine on – I’ll scratchbuild it of course. I bought some 5mm foamboard from a local sign shop – good value (I think) at £20 for three 1.5m x 500mm sheets which should last me basically forever. I’ve not used this stuff before, but I love it already! Glues with plastic cement (it’s polystyrene after all) and it cuts and shapes really nicely. If you’ve not used it, think firm but slightly squishy plasticard. I cut out a base and set (pun intended) about carving out some cobbles using the back of a fairly hefty Xacto blade. I marked out the lines in pencil, but then used the blade freehand to get a bit of wobble. Please forgive the crappy photo quality – I’m missing photoshop at the moment and relying on windows “tools”. Despite the slightly wobbly lines, they were still a bit too regular, so I “damaged” the tops with the handle of the knife – really pleased with the result, and it’s so easy! I cut a selection of thinner slices of foam – this isn’t easy, but the resulting, again, rather wobbly thickness I can live with. This stuff is so flat and regular, that a bit of variation helps I think. These were glued on using tube cement to form the pavement, and the kerbs and paving slabs carved in using the back of a scalpel this time for thinner joins. Here’s the overall base so far. Great fun! I’ve drawn up a building façade on CAD, but I scaled it a bit too big (familiar cock-up), so need to re-print before I can cut that out, but I’m really looking forward to it.
  7. This figure arrived today, all the way from Latvia in less than a week. 1/35th scale, obviously, and designed to fit the Copper State Models Canadian MG Carrier (which is a lovely kit, by the way). In case anyone's interested (possibly not!), I took some photos. You can see how there's a bit more cleanup needed than with some figures, but it's not bad at all. The neck needs some smoothing and the fit needs some fettling, which is made harder on the arms by the unusual use of lugs and sockets. I prefer flat surfaces for arms; a bit harder to glue but easier to fettle. This is where he's designed to stand. Pretty much perfect alignment, to be fair. The head wouldn't stay in on its own, though, so he's already been nicknamed Sir Humphrey Bone (fans of Ghosts on BBC1 will get that reference!) "Oh, no, not again. I can't... reach... my head."
  8. Two similar but different kits to be done in the markings of two brothers, one of which is extremely famous. Read through to find out who they are, Two Revell Fokker Dr.1 kits One is the very old Revell kit dating from 1966. This boxing being from 1978 The second kit is a more recent one, from 2003. Now this is where it all gets messy or confusing. I'm going to sort-of cross-kit these. The older kit has the decals of Manfred von Richthofen's 425/17 of April 21st 1918 but the decals are in a very poor state The newer kit has Manfred von Richthofen's 425/17 of March 1918 plus ones for Lothar von Richthofen's 454/17 of March 1918 I intend using the decals for Lothar on the older kit and making up the necessary Balkenkreuz for Manfred's Dr.1 from spares or painting over some Cross Pattee markings I may draw on some spare decals in my files, including from this sheet The older Dr.1 kit cost me £7.94 and the newer one £8, both off ebay from different sellers and those prices included postage For some odd reason the prices of 1/72 Fokker Dr.1 kits are going Uber on ebay. I can, and might pick up, a very old but new issue kit of a 1/48 Fokker Dr.1 in my LMS for £8 I hope to get on to these very soon. I only have one 1/72 Fokker F.1 and five 1/72 Fokker Dr.1s built and as yet I don't have 425/17 of April 1918 done. Its about time I corrected that omission
  9. Good day, colleagues and sympathizers. Finally, I caught inspiration and" brought " to mind a couple of long-term projects.So-a British 3-ton truck.It was used in the British troops during the First World War.To be honest, I didn't go much into the history of the prototype, and there is little about it(well, or I don't know how to use Google, who knows?...) About the build. Miniart-well done. Traction, engine, controls - everything is very well detailed. But the problem, as always, lies in the poor quality of plastic and extremely peculiar injection molding.Half of the rods were eventually replaced with tubes/wire, etc. The hood assembly was also not pleased. The result - you see in front of you. Coloring - RealColor, Akan, Tamiya. Oils and pigments-Ammo and co. The junk in the back is a miniart and some other bags from the stash boxes. Thank you for your attention, enjoy watching!
  10. First effort at posting some drawings. I'll build it bit at a time if it works. Any feedback more than welcome. RAL First one's a bit contrasty for a pencil drawing?
  11. Dear all, Here is my first effort at a scratch build. This is modelled on Bristol Scout 1264 which lives at Old Warden in the Shuttleworth Collection. When I first set eyes on this pretty little biplane I decided I had to make one in 1/32 but no kit was available so with the encouragement of a friend I dived headlong into the scratch building pond. Although it took just over a year, most of the time was spent scratching my head, rubbing my chin and staring blankly into space. It is by no means perfect and I could spend forever retouching and refining things but if I take my glasses off it looks terrific to me from a distance and most importantly I had so much fun with this project. To anybody contemplating scratch building I would highly recommend just having a go. The materials are cheap or free, for instance the cowling is the lid of a sauce bottle. Anything you cock up can always be remade and you will learn a lot, especially about the virtues of planning and patience but above all you will have great fun. What have you got to lose? Anyway enough my random ramblings, here are the photographs, I hope you like the Bristol Scout and are encouraged to learn about this wonderful aircraft and have a go at scratch building something. 1/32 Scratch built Bristol Scout by Richard Williams, on Flickr 1/32 Scratch built Bristol Scout by Richard Williams, on Flickr 1/32 Scratch built Bristol Scout by Richard Williams, on Flickr 1/32 Scratch built Bristol Scout by Richard Williams, on Flickr 1/32 Scratch built Bristol Scout by Richard Williams, on Flickr 1/32 Scratch built Bristol Scout by Richard Williams, on Flickr 1/32 Scratch built Bristol Scout by Richard Williams, on Flickr 1/32 Scratch built Bristol Scout by Richard Williams, on Flickr 1/32 Scratch built Bristol Scout by Richard Williams, on Flickr Many thanks for looking in. Here is a link to the build thread in case you are interested Richie
  12. After seeing this little beauty at Old Warden aerodrome and wanting to have a crack at scratch building something I decided it was time to dip my toe in the water. _V5A6869 by Richard Williams, on Flickr The first hurdle was making the cowling, I don't have a rotary tool so making cylindrical shapes is somewhat challenging. Luckily the top of an Encona Hot Pepper Sauce bottle is pretty much the perfect size. Bristol Scout 1264 Cowling by Richard Williams, on Flickr A bit of thinning with a milling head in a pin vice and removing the raised grips and it's there. I found a cheap resin Le Rhone engine on evil bay, a little surgery was needed to get it to fit but very little will be visible. 20200704_225156 by Richard Williams, on Flickr The frame took many efforts before it was usable, the tail feathers even more so. I think they're still a tad too thick so another attempt may happen. Scout framework. by Richard Williams, on Flickr Unfortunately I broke my thumb playing cricket last week so progress has stopped until I can handle tools again but I'm healing fast for an old bloke so hopefully I can whittle a prop, add some turtle deck formers and start detailing the interior next week. I am a total scratch building newbie so any advice would be very welcome. Thanks for reading. Richie
  13. I bought a resin kit of Hedi. It seemed Ok compared to pictures. It is clearly based on parts from Emhar's A7V kit wich suits me well. I had seen that there were a couple of things that needed to be fixed. The doors should actually be flush with the hull sides and I could have let it pass but the hinges are placed incorrectly on one side of the body. I was impressed by the handles at the doors though. However, I discovered that the "turrets" in the corners are too low and I felt that it was too much work to trying to fix that. It was time to bring out some plastic card. Coming this far, everything felt wrong. Things do not fit together. Only one thing to do. Tear it apart. New sides are made. I didn't want to make new fronts so I had to splice in plastic instead. Now new roofs must be made. The "guillotine" is a great help in cutting multiple parts for the grilles in the roof. But things still don't fit so everything is torn apart and new fronts has to be made anyway. Now nothing will remain of that first attempt of the build. Time to tear apart the the other end and rebuild it.
  14. British Fighter Aircraft in WW1 Design, Construction and Innovation. By Mark C. Wilkins. Casemate Publishers. ISBN 9781612008813 The Great War heralded a fascinating era of aeronautical development, coming as it did just as the very first aviators and their machines were establishing themselves in Europe. As answers to various problems were sought a huge range of designs were tried, from tail first canards, pusher and tractor engines, monoplanes, biplanes, triplanes and more. This book is a natural follow on from the same authors previous work 'German Fighter Aircraft in World war 1', reviewed here in 2019. Filling 192 pages it is richly illustrated with around 250 photographs and drawings, many of them contemporary. It is printed on good quality glossy paper, dimensions 254mm x 203mm, between hardback covers. Sections are: Introduction The British Aircraft Industry The British and Colonial Aeroplane Company (B&CAC)/Bristol The Royal Aircraft Factory Aircraft Manufacturing Company (Airco) A. V. Roe & Company (Avro) Sopwith Aviation Company Engines and Props Conclusion Appendix 1: The 1915 Defence of the Realm act Appendix 2. Aircraft Designer Patents Notes Bibliography Modern full colour photographs are used to illustrate preserved machines such as those owned by the Shuttleworth collection. Others cover reproduction machines under construction such as John Saunders SE5a, and John Shaws beautiful Sopwith Camel, shown below: These are accompanied by detailed drawings/sketches of key components such as tailskids, interrupter gear, and others. All valuable information for modellers. I particularly liked the period advertisements, and factory shots of aircraft under construction which are very atmospheric. The major manufacturers are covered in dedicated chapters, featuring individual aircraft such as the Bristol Scout and F.2B, the RAF BE.2 and SE5a, Avro 504 (not really a fighter, but it fits in well) and Sopwiths Pup, Triplane, and Camel to name a few. This is rounded off with a very interesting chapter on engines and propeller manufacturing. Finally there is a selection of original patent drawings covering Avro's method of seat mounting to Sopwiths method of securing rigging wires (- and it's not a turnbuckle!). It is not a book to give you a detailed history of each aircraft, rather it describes the development of the various companies and some of the deigns they produced. There is as much information on Tommy Sopwith and the establishment of his famous company, as there is about the aircraft themselves. Plenty of anecdotes are sprinkled through the chapters, I particularly like the contemporary accounts from pilots. For example, Elliot White Springs, US 148 Aero Sqn "in a dogfight down low nothing could get away from it...a Camel could make a monkey out of an SE or a Fokker at treetop level but it couldn't zoom and it couldn't dive". Conclusion When looking back to earlier times, nothing is more important than context. To properly understand the story being told, the reader needs to be 'in the shoes' of the people of the time, and see things from their knowledge base and social values. This something this book does so well. The introduction and first chapter set the scene very well, setting out how British design lagged behind the French, and developed in different ways to the Germans. The author makes interesting points that I not considered before, such as the British use of the wooden box girder fuselage on all major designs throughout the war, while other nations used welded steel or plywood semi-monocoques. He also discusses how designs not only had to be good flying machines, but also had to be practical to build, transport, and maintain. There is a great deal of original thought and presentation that lifts this book above being just another book about First World War Aviation. It is a 'Sunday Morning' book, sit in your favourite armchair with a mug of tea, and spend a pleasant hour or so reading and enjoying this lovely book. There are a good few Sunday mornings to be had! Highly Recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  15. In tandem with my ...slowboat... Shavrov Sh-2 build here on BritModeller, this marvellous example of Flash engineering hiding a Hansa Brandenburg aircraft within must be revealed as precisely what happens when your moulds become "cream-crackered". EE certainly knew the problem well, evidently, as does Roden. I have, then, for your reading pleasure, started this thing without due praise and/or reward because the H-B D.I was an interesting plane in its own light and the kit is becoming rarer now, most probably because nobody but me wishes to spend all day cutting through whole acres of flash. Hannants has a few left at the time of posting, iirc. The aircraft: Our HB D.I wil be: from Flik 16D, Serial: 28.30 flown by one Erwin Funk, a brilliant name that anyone would give their left Schwarzlose to possess. Here's a profile: (The angled gun is a typical Flik 16D modification as well as the enlarged windscreen, allegedly). I like the simple cherry coloured band on 28.30 because it ties in rather absurdly with a song from my favouritest indie popsters and, well, it gives me a go at smothering raw ochre oil paints over feeble acrylic undercoats; always time well spent in the life of a modern day artisan with his (or her) moustaches, fan brush and paisley cravat. TBC with pics ... and Best Wishes to you.
  16. Hello ship fans, the dazzle camouflage of WW1 ships makes an attractive and challenging subject for ship modellers and I've been fascinated by this subject for many years. So, joy of joys, a new book on the subject has been published very recently: “The Easter Egg Fleet. American ship camouflage in WW1”, by Aryeh Wetherhorn? I received my copy (paperback version) yesterday and it is marvellous – reproductions of most of the USN and merchant dazzle plans (as per the Admiralty Orders in the IWM). Both port and starboard profiles are shown in most cases. These are preceded by a decent (although obviously American-biased) overview of international laws pertaining to maritime warfare, USN camouflage theories and practice, submarine warfare in context, the British connection, etc. Various photographs are not very well reproduced though. Fabulous stuff, and grist for doing one or two Caldwell/Wickes/Clemson flush-deckers or the earlier USN destroyer classes, plus several armoured cruisers and battleships that are available in kit form. I’ve just ordered a Combrig 1/700 USS Birmingham to build in its beautiful (actually Admiralty designed) camouflage. A pity that the IWM can't put together a compendium of its many Orders. Cheers, GrahamB
  17. Airfix 1/72 Fokker E.III Eindecker, 105/15, of Ernst Udet
  18. Hi everyone – work has been keeping me very busy of late, so here is my latest completion (my first in well over six months), the 1/48 Eduard Morane Saulnier Type N "Bullet". This is the 8090 non-profipack kit, released 15 years ago back in 2004. The kit is quite an easy build (which is what I needed, having not really built much recently), but I did make a few adjustments and additions here and there. I added some RFC style seatbelts, wiring for instruments, some spare Lewis drums in the cockpit, a gaspatch Lewis gun, some external details here and there, strengthened the tailplane by replacing the elevator shaft with brass tube, and replaced the kit wheels (which are way too small) with Eduard after-market RFC-style wheels. The markings came from the spares box. The kit was painted in the markings of A.175 of No 60 SQN, Royal Flying Corps. This was the machine in which the first Commanding Officer of 60 SQN, Major Francis “Ferdy” Waldron, was shot down and mortally wounded on 03 July 1916. The encounter is described thus in Alex Revell’s Osprey Book on 60 SQN RFC: “On the morning of 3 July, ‘Ferdy’ Waldron led 5 bullets in a patrol to decoy attention away from NE 2cs attacking St Quentin. Lts J H Simpson and D V Armstrong fell out with engine trouble, but Waldron, Lt H H Balfour and Capt R R Smith-Barry flew on, above the Arras to Cambrai road. Approaching Cambrai, a formation of enemy two seaters, led by a Fokker E Type was seen, followed by two additional Fokker monoplanes, bringing the number of enemy machines to around a dozen. Undeterred by these odds, Waldron immediately led Balfour and Smith-Barry in an attack. Harrold Balfour later wrote: ‘I’m sure they were not contemplating war at all but Ferdy pointed us towards them and led us straight in. My next impressions were rather mixed. I seemed to be surrounded by Huns in two-seaters’. Waldron was outmanoeuvred and attacked by a two seater, flown by Uffz Howe of FA5b. Balfour saw that his CO was in trouble and succeeded in driving off the enemy, but the damage was done. Waldron had been badly wounded, and although he managed to crash land his damaged Morane behind enemy line, he died of his wounds that night”. Indeed a brave chap, who suffered the same fate as many who courageously faced enormous odds in combat above the front lines. Anyways, here are some pictures: All in all, not my best build but certainly good to finally get a run on the board for 2021. All feedback welcomed as always! Cheers, Brad
  19. First a warning – you’ll have to bear with me before I get any actual build pictures up for this – it may run for a while as I’m attempting something I’ve never tried before and lockdown is limiting what I can actually do at the moment. I’ve also prepared quite a lot of this and done a few experiments already off-line, so to speak, so there’ll be a bunch of posts in quick succession to start off with. I’ve returned to model making a few times over the years since my first forays into the hobby as a kid. Each time I re-trace my childhood steps, starting with 1/72 Airfix fighter planes, moving up to 1/48 and then diverting into AFVs and figures. Each time, I push the boundaries a bit more in an attempt to learn new skills and discover new techniques. This time round, I’ve reached the figures stage and I recall as a kid, making use of Tamiya’s 1/12 racing driver kit as the basis for a couple of Napoleonic Hussar/Dragoon types. This seemed a good plan at the time – the racing driver was pretty cheap and modestly attired (separate helmet was a bonus) allowing various bits of lead foil, filler and scraps of plastic to be slapped on him to turn him into a variety of soldier types albeit sporting fetching 70’s Jackie Stewart hairdo’s. Now I’ve discovered a 21st century alternative. Bandai make an artist’s posable 1/12 mannequin called “body Kun” which is anatomically correct (well, there are a couple of bits missing, if you see what I mean) and in terms of movement, he can be posed in pretty much any position a real person would. My first thought was to use one of these, fuse his joints with superglue and simply dress him up, but at £20 a pop, it seems a bit pricey for each figure, especially as it’s something of an experiment and could all end up in the bin. I’ve ordered one anyway, to use (as the manufacturer intended) as a guide to my model-making/sculpting. In carrying out my research into all this, I also discovered that there’s quite a healthy world/market out there for 1/12 action dolls – I think GI Joe may have kicked it all off, being a little smaller than Action man. As a result, beautifully sculpted resin heads are available on the web for about £15, although they tend to be spiderman/Wolverine/Brad Pitt and so on; remarkably realistic and so instantly identifiable, but a good starting point. I’m keen to try sculpting, but a bit scared of tackling faces. Clothing is another area I’m more than a bit wary of – basically I’ve no sculpting experience at all, so I need all the help I can get. A diorama is building up in my mind’s eye…. WW1 British soldier has stormed a German trench, wildly brandishing his fearsome trench club, swinging at all and sundry in a berserk frenzy with his trenchcoat billowing around him. His foe is broken; a shellshocked German sits holding his head in his hands, resigned to his fate, photos of his sweetheart fluttering out of his bloodied hands and into the mud. The aim of all this carnage (for me) is to practice and hopefully achieve a realistic full-on action piece. My Tamiya racing squad were all stuck in the same rather louche pose and I want to see how far away from that I can get. So here’s the plan: · Dress (me) up in something approaching WW1 British uniform, at least in shape. Pair of old corduroy’s, walking gaiters for puttees, long sports jacket and trenchcoat. · Use 4 friends (may have to wait until lockdown has eased of course) to video front, back and both sides of me as I “swing into action” on their phones whilst one of them counts out load. I’ll also have a “measuring stick” on view so I can scale the resulting images accurately later. · Load these videos into basic editing software and align them (that’s where the counting comes in). · Capture a suitably dramatic/animated moment from each video to get front, sides and back views. I’ll print these slightly larger than 1/12 on paper, with the contrast pushed up to highlight clothing folds. · Pose the body-Kun doll in the correct position using the printouts behind (hence printed a bit larger). · Copy the pose using wire to form an armature. · Bulk out the body with (standard) miilliput to match the body-kun. · Create clothes using scaled sewing patterns I found on the web for WW1 British uniforms out of…. I’m not sure yet; some papery material TBC. Perhaps fag papers for thin cotton and J-cloth for thick wool. Maybe I’ll use superfine milliput or metal foil instead – not sure yet. · Apply the clothes piece by piece, supergluing spot points and sculpting (with PVA if I use “cloth”) to match the profile photos. · Stick on head and hands (body-Kun comes with a variety of hands, so I may try casting some resin copies). · Add 1/12 3D printed Lee Enfield I’ve seen for sale online. · Scratchbuild various apparel and stick on. · Paint. The same will go for the German, and then it just remains to build a trench diorama to place them in. Should be fun!
  20. Revell 1/72 Fokker Dr.1 of Lothar von Richthofen, March 1918. The old 1966 (1978 issue) kit using the scheme and decals from a more recent Revell Dr.1 (2003) Built for the 'Under a tenner' GB
  21. Hi All finally got this finished, looking at some early and mid 1918 photos I used those to judge the weathering etc, base and a figure or two to do. Cheers For Looking Mark
  22. Something to keep me occupied during the winter break Tamiya 1/35 Mark IV Male tank, take two by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr Tamiya 1/35 Mark IV Male tank, take two by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr Tamiya 1/35 Mark IV Male tank, take two by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr
  23. Hi Everyone, Started my latest project, been looking forward to this, Meng MkV, Started it Two weeks ago, and following a different format, building more parts into sub assemblies and painting more parts on mass once assembled instead of all individual, seems to be working reasonably well. have only come across some minor fit issues, all with the side sponsons, I should be able to work it out after reading loads of tips in various posts, shame so much of the kit is hidden, just wish I had the skill to open up access panels to do it justice. Very impressed with the detail on the Ricardo engine, shame you will not see most of it. The rest of the engine cradle and drivetrain/clutch is rather nice too. Did no clean up at all on the rollers for the tracks, cut from sprue as close as I could and that’s it, they are totally hidden, added the PE plates on one side, but not on other, You cannot see them is one reason and also I may run some cables through here for the lights I am going to add to the interior, The guns look ace, currently researching correct/best colours for them, added the ally barrels from Aber Engine primed in Stynlrez Black primer, I think it has come out so well there is no point adding Black paint to it, just a little chipping and colour in places. Interior done yesterday, Stynlrez white primer, good enough as I think, then I decided even a new tank not long arrived in theatre probably would not still be white, so added Hataka interior Buff, definitely has right colour for tobacco and other staining, will be adding a bit more suitable grime as well. Got to tidy up engine cradle, should have at least painted that separately in retrospect, probably won’t see it I inside though. Got the idea of the cream colour from a good friend who did the work on the MkV at the IWM in London, then came across the Hataka Buff colour. So there is the progress so far, Cheers Mark
  24. Heroes and Villains. Here’s my 1/12 scratchbuilt WW1 trench scene; “Heroes and Villains”. I decided to have a crack at sculpting figures using Fimo polymer clay. It was a real learning experience and great fun. They’re far from perfect, but being my first attempt at this sort of thing, I’m really pleased with how they’ve come out. When I started, I didn’t think I’d be able to get anywhere near as good as they’ve ended up. Sculpting is really intense and challenging, but with a bit of practice, not as difficult as I thought it would be. Next time I’ll hopefully improve my figures’ heads (necks are a particular challenge for me) and the painting – I’m no figure painter! I wanted to show a dynamic scene that raises questions about our interpretation of who is a hero and who is a villain in war. WIP is here…. Thanks for looking!
  25. It's 1916 and the German front lines have recently replaced their pickelhaubes with the new M16 steel helmets. Here we have a German officer leading a raid across no man's land in the hopes of bring back a couple prisoners to see what's all the mechanical noise they are recently hearing. Figures are modified Verlinden WW1 German figures by adding gas masks and the M16 helmets 1/16 scale. This was a longtime build which I probably started 10 years ago and just recently created the base and got it off the bench.
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