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Found 10 results

  1. Good evening, first proper build post from me on the forums! Well it all started after a trip to the Midland Air Museum in Coventry where I got the fantastic chance to get inside an Avro Vulcan and see what it was like inside, and by god what an aircraft! I wish I had taken a lot more photographs but thanks to a thread that I found on the forums prior to joining, I found a nice walkaround inside of the cockpit. This was then followed by an enquiry to the Vulcan To The Sky Trust and after they gave me a few pages of the crew manual showing the details of both the front and rear cockpit, they also suggested getting a book which included the manual and infinitely more in-depth images. (The Vulcan Story 1952-2002 by Tim Laming) And so it began, all made of plasticard with the seat cushions made of milliput. Obviously there is still A LOT of work to do I think it is coming along nicely and the 3 panels shown at the end were made today with clear plastic used to serve as the ground scanning radar screen and a few dials. Thanks for that, cue the images! Sam And so after an hour of fannying around with Google+, Flickr and now Photobucket, the photos now work!
  2. ISU-152 1/35, Tamiya with Friulmodel tracks. I made it because i've wanted a bit of rest from constructing of B-747-400F 1/72
  3. Morning all! This is my quick OOB (almost) build of the Roden VC-10 K3 1:144 kit. Nothing much more to say so lets get on with it : Kit: Roden VC-10 K3 1:144 (From my LMS- Mike's Models) Paints: Vallejo Model Air custom-mixed grey (based on reference photos) Vallejo Model Air black, Model Color silver Washes: Vallejo Model Wash-dark grey Additional Details: Refuelling basket (inside the central refueling pod) made from rolled up tissue paper Spare RAF roundels had to be used on the side of the fuselage due to an error made by myself Flaps were produced, cutting out the kit's flaps on the underside of the wing and using plasticard to make up the rest of the structure Spoilers/speedbrakes were produced from paper Pros: Great recessed panel lines on the wings and rear control surfaces Nicely detailed engine pods (especially the thrust reverser gratings) Lots (and lots!) of decals, especially on the refuelling pods, which were not all used in this build Window masks (which i stupidly put on every single window and ended up running out of masks half way down the other side!) Relatively cheap- depending on your LMS/supplier Numerous tiny aerials and probes supplied Cons: Very shallow panel lines on the main fuselage body Ejector pins on fuselage join, when these were removed I found that there was a poor fuselage join Very unusual scheme, I can find only one image of this scheme on the internet-apparently the crews "were not a fan" Decal placement sheet was sometimes difficult to interpret Base kit does not have an option for spoilers or flaps Quite a few decals were out of register, but this shouldn't really matter Thanks for having a look Kind regards, Sam
  4. Morning all! I've always rather liked the Gulf War Tornado ZA465- otherwise known as Foxy Killer and so it would have been absurd if I was to pass up the opportunity to model this fabulous example of British aviation. Kit: Revell 1:72 Tornado Gr.1 (From my LMS- Mike's Models) Extras: Print Scale- Tornado Gr.1 Gulf War nose art (From Hannants) -Scratchbuilt RBF tags made from paper and FOD covers made from tissue paper. Paints Used: Vallejo: Black, White, Medium Olive, Barley Grey, Red. The "Desert Pink" colour was created from a variety of Vallejo paints mixed together. AK Interactive Dust Wash used for weathering the wheels *Note: I can't guarantee that this model is entirely accurate: Thanks for having a look! Kind regards, Sam
  5. Good morning, I just thought I might ask the advice and opinions of members of the forum in regards to a project i'm starting. I was thinking of doing a 1:72 Airfix Vulcan "properly"; with aftermarket engines, intakes (possibly, you'll see later) and the white ensign model (WEM) stuff. I've also thought it might be an appropriate model to do some rescribing for the first time, along with flory washes, photo etch and resin- I had to choose this model So the few questions I would like to ask are as follows: 1. Can you use a steel ruler and is it adviseable for linear panel lines as a guide- rather than masking tape? 2. (Perhaps the most important decision) Which Vulcan to do?! I've got a choice between XH558 and XL360- having been in XL360 and purely because I quite like the 617 tail marking (I might be turning into an "anorak" ) I feel a greater sense of attachment to her, although I have seen XH558 display at Throckmorton last year and so I am quite keen on her too! 3. Should I have "everything" open (gear down, airbrakes down, bomb bay doors open, crew hatch open)? Or should I save some money and (if I should choose XL360) build the Coventry Vulcan as it currently is (and save additional money with FOD covers for the ghastly kit intakes)? Note: I would have built the Cosford Vulcan but I'm not keen on the highly glossed finish of XM598 4. Any other advice for building the Airfix kit? Joins to watch out for, etc. I know that 2 and 3 are very subjective points but I would greatly value your opinions. Many thanks, Sam Edit: the 617 tail marking on XL360 Edit 2: -Are there any definitive colour matches out there for either 558 or 360?
  6. Hello! This is the first 'proper' build i've done for a few years, I'm rusty but back with vengeance. Far from perfect re: paint job, but it's a notorious kit to build. I've neatened up the cockpit and airbrake since I took these pics too. Can't wait to get my hands on the new tool Airfix kit! Up next: 1/200 Vulcan in anti flash. If anyone can tell me what image extensions i can use here, i'd be grateful. They all reject for me! In the meantime, pics here: http://postimg.cc/gallery/2lgjzw3xg/31c2f0a1/ Chris
  7. Hi All, I've picked up a 1/200 Vulcan and have finally decided to go anti flash white (I chickened out of doing it on my last Victor...) I want to do this with spray cans. What are the best (ideally cheapest) primer and white gloss products for the job? I don't know whether to go primer > matt white > clear gloss primer > gloss white enamel vs. acrylic etc Any help to make sure this just works first time would be highly appreciated! Ta, Chris
  8. Good evening all, First of all, apologies about the photos-they're not the best.... Secondly, being a rather large Vulcan fan I thought why not try the Cyberhobby 1:200 kit, I would have never thought of buying one, but it was on Ebay for £5. And oh, my. What a kit! The panel lines are crisp, the decals are outstanding and the options available (shrike, blue steel, gear up/down, open crew hatch, etc, are quite varied. It even includes parts for the instrument panel and ejection seats-which shockingly also include control columns!!! A brilliant kit- the one issue being that the pressure needed in order the keep the upper and lower wing sections mated together while gluing is fairly substantial-requiring a clamp to get a good fit. Furthemore, it doesn't come with a bomb bay, so I've scratchbuilt a fairly crude bomb bay and managed to squash that into the aircraft. -Painted using an airbrush and Vallejo "Model Air" colours. Scratchbuilt bomb bay- including hand painted VTTS logo and a sponsor's logo inside (very messy, i know!) So, that's pretty much it from me, Thanks for having a look around Sam
  9. Good evening all, Just been to Bruntingthorpe's cold war jets day-superb stuff! Anyway the point is, I picked up a 1:48 TSR-2 for £28 and I was wondering what sort of things I should probably look out for in terms of building the kit (fit issues, etc)? I was thinking of not painting the kit (seen as it is moulded in white plastic) mainly because whenever I have sprayed stuff white in the past, thousands of dust particles suddenly appear on my previously white model and are trapped by the paint when it dries. So, what do you think of that? Is that ok for getting a decent finish on the model? I have also heard rumours that the landing gear can break rather easily, is this true? Thanks, apologies for any grammatical mistakes -i'm rather tired! Sam
  10. German War Colours 1937 - 1944 AK Interactive There is a huge choice when it comes to German armour kits, with almost every manufacturer having a good selection in their portfolio. But what do you paint them with? Now, AK Interactive are well known for their weathering products and are increasing their line of paint. This set has been designed for German Armour from 1937 – 1944, and contains six Wehrmacht colours, • Polizei/Waffen SS grun, • RAL 7021Dunklegrau • RAL 7017 Dunklebraun • RAL 6003 Olivgrun Opt 1 • RAL 6003 Olivgrun Opt 2 • RAL 7028 Dunklegelb According to the blurb on the bottles they can be both brushed or airbrushed which please a lot of modellers. Once the bottles have been shaken very well colour density looks pretty good, but until I’ve used them I cannot definitively state how well they spray or cover. On the back of the box there is a useful colour chart of which colours go together and depict five armoured vehicles/tanks in various schemes. Conclusion This looks to be a very useful and well thought out set of colours from AK Interactive and will prove a boon to both the beginner and expert alike. Without actually trying them though I can only recommend them with from my use of other products in their range. When I get to use them I will amend this review accordingly. Review sample courtesy of
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