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Found 8 results

  1. G-518 US 1T Cargo Trailer ‘Ben Hur’ (35436) 1:35 MiniArt via Creative Models Ltd During WWII, the US used two small two-wheeled trailers for transporting additional equipment and other essential stores around the battlefield, towed by trucks and other vehicles that had at least a ¾ ton payload carried internally. There were two major variants, one for carrying many types of equipment and designated as G-518, the other a specialist water carrier that was given the catalogue designation G-527. The main contractor was Ben-Hur Manufacturing Co., which garnered it the nickname ‘Ben-Hur Trailer’, and its 1-ton load capacity in 3.2m3 volume meant that it saw a lot of action, mostly ignored by war historians and modellers alike, as it was a transport and not as interesting as the things that went bang. Nevertheless, there were over a quarter of a million built, and many of them spent their days dutifully following a Chevrolet truck around the roads and tracks of Europe and the Far East. The Kit This is a new tooling from MiniArt, launched just after the G-527 Water Buffalo we reviewed recently here, this kit is ripe for filling with useful gear that a squad may find helpful on the battlefield, or to make themselves comfortable before or after action. The kit arrives in a small top-opening box with a painting of the subject matter on the front by the prolific Volodymyr Booth, and inside are six sprues of grey styrene, a card envelope that contains a small Photo-Etch (PE) fret and a length of chain, adding a small sheet of decals and the glossy instruction booklet to complete the package, the latter having painting and decaling profiles on the rearmost pages. Detail is excellent as usual with MiniArt, including a full chassis, well-rendered chunky treaded tyres, and even a set of slat extensions to the sides of the structure with moulded-in wooden texture. Construction begins with the bodywork, starting with the two sides that have leaf springs moulded-in, which have the axle retention bolts added to both sides, PE tie-down loops down the sides, and the light cluster that is fitted on a PE bracket next to the rear suspension mount. A choice of external framework to the sides with or without the extension slats is glued to the sides, including small PE brackets at both ends of the slatted sections. The wheels are built from two parts, the larger having the outer hub, tyre carcass and the tread moulded as one, the smaller having the opposite sidewall details moulded-in. They are then put to one side while you build up the rest of the load area. The two sides are mated with the floor part, adding brake actuators underneath and on the side, and bringing in the ends to create the load box, with more PE brackets and foot stirrups to aid entry. While the chassis is upside down, the two-part inner hubs are fitted to the ends of the axles, adding a short length of 0.5mm wire to each one, and another length to a bracket under the floor. The towing frame is made from two converging lengths, which are fixed under the front of the floor on a pair of U-bolts, while a pair of mudguards are mounted on the chassis sides on pegs, inserting the wheels into their wells. The front and rear slat sections are glued to brackets on the sides, then four curved roof supports are fixed to the sides that are used when a tilt is fitted during poor weather. The tailgate is completed by adding the PE retaining pins on chains at floor level, then the two-part towing eye is mounted atop the front of the A-frame, and a jockey-wheel is built from two halves plus a yoke and pivot, with an alternate all-steel wheel if you prefer. This can be fitted under the hitch in either horizontal position for travel, or vertically for a parked trailer, locking it in place between two halves of the pivot. Another longer length of wire is fitted under the left chassis rail and hitch frame, dangling the end down over the hitch, adding a plug for the electronics, which has a hole moulded-in for the wire. The safety chains are cut to length, and are each trapped between two halves of their bracket, adding the hook on the loose end after drilling a hole in the part first. Markings There are four decal options on the sheet, with a choice of camouflage that dictates the fitment of slatted sides and/or steel jockey wheel, so take care during construction if you have a particular scheme in mind. From the box you can build one of the following: 1st Army Corps (7th Army), US Army, Italy, Autumn, 1943 US Army, Europe, 1944-45 2nd Australian Corps., Bougainville Island, January 1945 US Navy, 1940s Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion A trailer might not be one of the most charismatic of military vehicles, but its importance from a strategic point of view can’t be underestimated, as an army without supplies isn’t going very far, as has often been illustrated in extended campaigns throughout history. MiniArt have done a great job tooling this kit, and it will make an interesting addition behind your next softskin project, or as part of a diorama. This version has been so popular that Creative Models are currently out of stock, even though we’ve only had our sample a few days. Keep checking back though, as I’m certain they’ll be getting a restock just as soon as they can. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  2. Tachikawa Ki-54Hei/Hickory (SH72270) 1:72 Special Hobby The design that was to become the Ki-54 was requested as a response to the need for a twin-engined trainer aircraft to teach novice pilots that had already learned to fly single-engined aircraft to specifics of flying a multi-engined aircraft. Tachikawa was a major aircraft manufacturer between the wars, and it was their design that won the contract and first flew in the summer of 1940, successfully entering service during 1941 before the Japanese Empire attacked Pearl Harbour and brought the USA into WWII. It was one of those aircraft that most multi-engined pilots spent time earning their wings on at the time, before they moved on to fly the Ki-21 bomber, which had similar flight characteristics to the Ki-54, so was ideal for the task. The initial Ki-54a variant was designed for pilot and navigator training, and given the suffix Koh, followed by Ki-54b, a Gunnery and Wireless trainer variant called Otsu, and finally the Ki-54c Hei, which was a transport and liaison variant that was also used in civilian service. A few airframes were converted to Ki-54d standards as anti-submarine bombers that were named Tei, with a total of just over 1,300 aircraft produced spanning all types. Named ‘Hickory; by the Allies for ease of identification, the aircraft survived the end of the war, with numerous airframes used by the Allies for sundry roles, and more finding their way to different parts of the world in civilian hands. It is perhaps for this reason that two still exist in China and Australia. The Kit This is a 2021 tooling of this lesser-known type, and arrives in a small top-opening box with a painting of the subject matter flying over a coast that is covered in thick jungle. Inside the box is a resealable clear foil bag that contains four sprues in grey styrene, the wing sprue in a different hue in my example, a small clear sprue and decal sheet in their own separate bags, plus the A5 portrait instruction booklet that is printed in colour on satin paper, with painting and decaling profiles on the rearmost pages. The wing sprue gives the impression that it is from a slightly earlier period, partly due to the colour of the styrene, but also because the fabric control surfaces are a little softer than those of the tail surfaces. Detail is good overall, and includes a seating area in the main fuselage behind the cockpit, gear bay details and a representation of the Hitachi radial engines that will be seen through the front of the cowlings. Construction begins with joining the two halves of the centre console together, then building the two crew seats from four parts each, with decal lap-belts on the sheet. Both crew members also have a two-part handed control column made, and the instrument panel has a decal applied to depict the dials, and a small V-shaped coaming to the front, after which the assemblies can be brought together on the small floor, starting with the centre console that also acts as the base for the instrument panel. The seats and control columns are mounted behind on raised location points, then the passenger seats are built with two short C-shaped legs under each cushion, adding the seat back to the rear, making six of them in total. They mount on the floor after it has the two spar sections glued across it, locating the seats on short rails moulded into the floor, and fitting raised sides that represent the inner root of the wings. A scrap diagram shows the location of the three bulkheads in red, which are fitted next along with what looks like overhead lockers along the insides of the fuselage above the side windows, cutting an extra window for one decal option that is marked by a depression from inside, all of which are glazed after the fuselage is closed, although for the sake of losing one or more inside, it might be wise to glue them into position beforehand. The cockpit bulkhead door has a small window added, fitting the cockpit in front, and the tail-wheel bay in the rear, then closing the fuselage, dealing with the seams in your preferred manner, and gluing the canopy over the cockpit cut-out. If you’re wondering why the passenger floor hasn’t been mentioned in closing the fuselage, it’s because it can be installed from beneath, locating on tabs moulded into the bottom of the bulkheads, taking care that the seats are facing forward. As you may have already surmised, the lower wings are moulded as a single full-span part, and once the seams with the upper halves are dealt with, you should paint the underside of the wing where the gear bay will be a suitable green shade before adding the three struts that begin the landing gear assembly. The nacelles are built in a slightly unusual manner, as the upper wing has the cowling moulded-in, requiring just the lower halves of the nacelles to be glued under the wing after inserting a bulkhead that is previously mated to the main gear legs and separate oleo scissor-links. A scrap diagram helps you with this, and two additional small parts are added while the lower nacelles are brought up to complete the shape. Another jack is fitted after the nacelles are complete, and a line drawing of the completed gear mechanism is shown to help with alignment of the parts. The two engine cowlings are each split horizontally, and are assembled in preparation for the engines over the page, first joining the wings to the fuselage and fitting the two elevators, one either side of the tail fin, their tabs slotting into holes beneath the fin with moulded-in rudder. The engines are each moulded as single parts that have a bulkhead moulded into their rears, mounting on the nacelles by way of a keyed peg that slots into a hole in the rear, covering them over with the nacelles, then adding an auxiliary intake and exhaust to the outer nacelle sides. The model is flipped over onto its back to complete the landing gear, adding two-part wheels to the axle on each strut along with a narrow captive gear bay on the forward side, inserting the tail-wheel with moulded-in strut into the tail, and the crew step under the port trailing-edge of the wing. Righting the model, the two-bladed props and separate spinner are slipped into the bell-housings on the front of the engines, clear landing lights and wingtip lights are inserted into the leading-edges of the wings, plus a pitot probe in the starboard side. Another clear light is inserted in the end of the fuselage, an antenna mast over the cockpit, and the side access door is fitted with a small window before it is fixed to the fuselage in open or closed position. If you plan on closing the door, it might be best to glue it in before the fuselage is closed, as this will give you the best chance of getting it nice and level with the surrounding fuselage skin. Incidentally, a scrap diagram shows that the landing light parts have a circular depression moulded into them for you to fill with paint to depict the reflector around the bulb if you wanted to add a little extra detail. Markings There are four decal options on the sheet, three of them have a green squiggle camouflage over the entire upper surface. Happily for the squiggle averse, one option is painted the basic grey/green shade worn by many/most Japanese aircraft of the day wore. From the box you can build one of the following: C/n 5541, 38th Sentai, Noshiro Base, Japan, 1943 Recovered from Towada lake and on display in Misawa Museum 28th Dokuritsu Hikotai, Chofu Base, Japan, 1945 10th Dokuritsu Hikodan Shireibu, Borneo, 1945 10th Dokuritsu Hikodan Shireibu, Borneo, late 1945 operated by the Japanese Capitulation Delegation. Currently intact in Australia The decals are printed using a digital process and have good registration, sharpness, and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut loosely around the printed areas. This means that the carrier film on their decals can be coaxed away from the printed part of the decal after they have been applied, effectively rendering them carrier film free, making the completed decals much thinner and more realistic, and obviating the need to apply successive coats of clear varnish to hide the edges of the carrier film. It’s a great step further in realism from my point of view, and saves a good quantity of precious modelling time into the bargain. Conclusion A well-detailed kit of this minor type from the Allies point of view, but an important one for the Japanese pilots that trained in them. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  3. A few years ago at Scale Model World HORNBY AIRFIX were giving out slips of paper on which visitors could write down the models that they wished for. On my paper I wrote 1/72 AW Argosy and as I handed it in to some young assistant who probably had no idea what an Argosy was I thought " no chance ". I have wished for an injection moulded 1/72 Argosy for years and hoped that a mainstream manufacturer would produce one. Then at last year's Scale Model World there it was to my absolute surprise, on display in a glass cabinet on the F-RESIN stand courtesy of Mr Palix of MACH 2 a built up RAF Argosy in camouflage scheme, And on the table were the sprues of parts for anybody interested to study closely. I already had experience of MACH 2 as I had built their Breguet Atlantic so I knew what to expect.............................. But there in front of me was a built up one so they must be buildable.............. They seemed to be flying off the stand to eager buyers so I thought I better get one before they ran out so I bought the RAF silver and white version. On arriving home a close study of the parts gave me some misgivings. The plastic parts had a rough surface with lumps of molten plastic stuck to them. Small parts such as aerials and vortex generators were so crude that they would require scratch making. But really this is what I expected anyway. The instructions only give a rough idea about particular areas of the model as you are expected to already know something about the subject you are building. What did impress me was the inspiring colour scheme and decal placement guide printed in full colour. The quality of the decals looked to be excellent. My wife wanted it to be a Christmas present so I became distracted with another project and it wasn't until March this year that I started cutting plastic off the thick sprues and set to on the laborious task of cleaning up the parts. The Argosy was finally completed in September and I was able to display it on our model club table at Scale Model World where it was the only Argosy to appear in the whole show............. What has happened to all those Argosies that were bought last year ? I took photos of the build as it progressed and so I will share these with you in the sequence that I built it as though I were building it now. Adrian I'm laughing because I know what's coming next...................TOMMY COOPER
  4. A model from 9 years ago: The second vac for today, this time a rather unrefined kit by VLE. I checked right now and the kit seems to be listed, but not available, by Aviation Megastore, that is using photos of my model and my build to portray the kit, without permission or even a mere credit. Great business practices, I see. The Fokker Universal has highly significant historical value, was produced in large numbers in many variants, can be seen in skis, floats and wheels, and had such diverse and attractive liveries from many countries, that I honestly do not understand why it hasn't been kitted to a higher level yet more recently. We finally got a rather clunky Fokker F.VII from Valom (I posted one here), but no Universal or Super Universal. Me, I would love to see kitted a four-engined Fokker F.32: From the San Diego Air and Space Museum Flickr photostream: From Wikipedia: But again I digress. The Fokker Universal, the subject of this article, was the first American Fokker, designed by Robert Noorduyn and produced in New Jersey by the Atlantic Aircraft Corporation. Although it kept a number of Fokker design trade marks, it also incorporated some local know-how. Starting on 1926 more than forty were built, and a number of them went to Canada. Wheels, floats and skis were all comfortable shoes for the Universal. So here it is the Universal kit in 1/72, thanks to VLE Models, a rather simple an unsophisticated kit, but providing some extra bits. As you can tell by the images, there is a low count of vac parts and a number of details provided either as metal, resin or extruded styrene (struts) plus decals for several versions. The decals are of just passable quality and heck, there are a lot, but I went for my home-made brew. For the reasonably experienced modeler there are a lot of other versions livery-wise out there too, if you can print you own decals. Once the parts were extracted from the sheets and sanded down, minor adjustments were made to help their fit. The wing construction is similar to that of the VLE’s T-2, in having a wraparound leading edge that fits to a lip provided by the upper and lower wing parts. That lip or step has in this case to be reduced to the minimum expression in order to allow the LE to fit properly. Some panel lines were a bit undefined and had to be re-scribed. A certain amount of filler was also applied to deal with a few gaps. For most of the sanding I used wet sanding with wet-or-dry sand paper attached to flat surfaces (small and big). With the kit you get, besides the above-mentioned multi-decal options, floats, skis and wheels to dress your Universal in the appropriate attire. The cockpit area is also covered by the extra parts plus a bulkhead that closes the cabin area. You will have to provide a cabin interior according to the version you are building. A clear plastic strip is provided for the windows. It is covered, both sides, by a protective film. This is a simpler and smaller build than the same brand T-2, and things proceeded smoothly on. In the intermezzos I read out loud poems by Mark Strand, which, as it is universally known, always helps to tame the model parts and provide for a better fit. Next the interior was added with some structure that is visible from outside and that, in the case of the windows, will later support the transparencies. The fus halves were glued, and wing and stab added, then the metal part that accounts for the main frame of the landing gear, which, by the way, helps a lot with all those struts. Once dried, the joins and little faults were remedied with Milliput and putty. Metal control horns were added where necessary and little holes made for the minor parts and future rigging. Brass “Strutz” tailskid was added. The usual filling/priming/sanding cycle went on couple of times, and then the wing was painted to replicate the wood finish, using a combination of acrylics, oils and clear coats. A few photoecthed parts were added here and there. For the fuselage alu dope finish Humbrol 56 was used. The home-made decals were applied and then the rigging (kinda complex in this one, as the control cables are exposed). Struts were added and with engine, minor details and windshield it was done. Bear in kind that many machines exhibit minor differences in their strut arrangement, not only because of the skis or floats, but also among wheel-equipped machines. Variations can be noticed in rudder profile, cockpit area and the immediate wing surface directly after the cockpit. Exhausts have many alternate arrangements. The plane represented by the model is one of the two Colonial Air Transport Universals that were allocated to CAM-1, under contract with the U.S. Post Office. The strange registrations are due a short-lived system that was used at the time. The window on the door was covered. I opted to make my wing in wood finish, as many other Fokker were like that.
  5. A build from 5 years ago: I am always thrilled by the clunky but charming Farman designs. Their simplicity is not in any way a detriment to their beauty, furthermore, their somehow squarish lines look always harmonious and balanced. The 250 is not the exception, and although a passenger carrier, its stance and proportions give the impression of a racy machine. One sole sample was built and went to the Société générale des transports aériens, the SGTA from now on. Simplicity, we were saying, was Farman’s trademark, which in modeling terms generally translates as an easier building process. The only part that needed an extra effort was the bump on the upper fuselage deck, vacuformed in a snap over a Sculpey master . The interior followed a description in a Flight magazine article of the era. Colors were the source of animated and highly educated speculation among fellow modelers until some very credible conclusions were reached. I got an after-market engine and wheels, both had to be touched-up: The engine required a special exhaust arrangement and the wheels the fabrication of cone-shaped covers. A few details were added too: the Pitot tube, wind-driven generator, tail skid, Venturi and navigation lights. Home-made decals and a windshield completed the model. These French know Charm.
  6. Hi guys, Thought I would get some photos up of the Mach2 Argosy. It won't be a full on WIP, just little updates from time to time. Booms just pushed on for photo. and where it's at now, that centre wing section has been a PITA & will need a rescribe, but other than that it's been an OK build. My weakness has always been building 'neat' and finishing seams off perfectly.... but this time round it's looking a lot better... More, soon....................
  7. When I was a kid I dreamt of becoming a Pilot when I grew up - not a fighter pilot, mind you - no I wanted to fly Hercules! Now I'm grown up (some would say too grown especially in the midwaist area! ) and my dream didn't come through. So lately I've become a bit nostalgic, and started to buy the kits of my childhood, including e.g. Airfix 1/72 Beagle Basset 206, which will be in Royal Air Force Transport Command livery. That started me going and I started buying more transportplanes in 1/72 for the smaller and 1/144 for the larger ones all which will be RAF-planes! So far I have: 1/72 Beagle Basset 206 1/72 C-130 1/72 Scottish Aviation Twin Pioneer 1/144 C-130 1/144 Blackburn Beverley and a 1/144 VC-10, Britannia, C-17 and Comet on the way. I understand that there may be an 1/144 Argosy on the way this year and there is an Anigrand 1/144 Belfast but what more post WW2 RAF transport planes are there out there? Cheers Hans J
  8. Patrol Craft Fast (PCF), also known as Swift Boats, were all-aluminum, 50-foot (15 m) long, shallow-draft vessels operated in Vietnam primarilybby the United States Navy, Initially patrolling the coastal areas they later took to the interior waterways as part of the 'Brown-water Navy' where they carried out interdiction, counter insurgency, troop transport and special forces insertion. In total Eighty-four Mark I Swift boats served in Vietnam, with a further twenty reserved for training, however they are frequently overlooked in favour of their more heavily armed and warlike cousins the PBRs, Landing Ships and Monitors with whom they fought alongside. ..... The Brown Water Navy as a whole is rather overlooked in modelling terms, and the PCF is no exception despite it's distinguished service. As far as I'm aware the Revell kit is the only kit generally available and although being rather old (1967), quite basic (61 parts) and lacking in any type of interior detail it appears to be quite accurate and has some potential. .... For the princely sum of £20 inc p+p I now have 2 of these. I shall tackle one and hide the other for a possible future project (original civilian or demobbed perhaps)
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