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After a longer quarter scale vehicle abstinence, it´s time for my dad to start a new one. DSC_0008 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr didn´t have enough AK RC SCC15 left, so used AK RC Forrest Green instead, it´s more or less the same green tone. DSC_0009 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0010 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr

#4/2024 After some pause, time for a 1/48 vehicle between all the aircraft. Tamiya kit oob, thanks to the quality it was an easy and straight forward build. Painted with AC RC Forrest Green Build thread here https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235135794-medic148-austin-k2y-ambulance/ DSC_0001 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0010 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0003 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0004 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0005 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0006 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0007 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0008 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0009 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0012 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0013 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr

Did the British Army use the Late Producton M3 Stuart ? Cheers Wellzy

Hello my friends, Here it is! My 2nd Honda Repsol bike, with cowls in place this time, is now ready for inspection. Even if it is a bit less detailed (mainly regarding cables running under the dashboard), I admit I love it and probably even prefer it to the first one, maybe because it is the last build, but above all because the cowls in place give the best perception in term of design and aerodynamics of this beautiful G.P bike. The decision to build a new model is for me, as for most of you I suppose, the result of an aesthetic crush, and the first time I saw the Tamiya box-art of this 2014 Honda Repsol, I thought I would build it some day. I finally build it 2 times! For this 2nd build, I sometimes used alternative approaches for some details (no use of the provided decals for the Black stripes on the seat cowl and the tank cover, or yet use of the Kevlar Fiber pattern SK decals inside the upper cowl instead of the painting option), but most of the time, I was faithful to my first build. So, the Top Studio Chain set was patiently assembled and set in place another time to represent faithfully the chain, and, to give another example (I could give many), the rims were dug using the same technique than for the first build. Here are below the pics: I have now to try to represent Marc Marquez on this bike (from a Valentino Rossi figure I recall), what will be another challenge. I just began the work: Thanks for watching Cheers, Olivier P.S: for those of you interested, here are the links to the first build WIP and RFI:

Hello folks Preview of my next project: Hetzer of the 272nd Volks-Grenadier-Division in the battle for Kesternich. See you soon! MD

This is my model of Tamiya’s Mazda MX-5 ND / Mk IV (kit #24342). The model is an homage to a real car formerly owned by a former member of our local MX-5 club. Wheels are Aoshima 19” AVS Model T6 (#045527), exhaust tips are Hobby Design (actual car had two dual-tip outlets, though perhaps not this big!) and paint is Tamiya TS-95 Pure Metallic Red over grey primer. Grant. With “stock” sibling

HI everyone!🙂 this is my TAMIYA 1/24 FIAT 500 A very cute little car... the kit is aged,however,I think it's a good kit I did some modification and detail up hope you guys like it!

My record in group builds is frankly appalling but I'm hoping I can find the enthusiasm and most importantly the time to make a 2nd contribution to this GB. I couldn't not do a French jet, as my in-progress Streak is an Adl'A jet and my 'Streak for the GB is a Belgian jet, I decided I'd do a plank wing F-84G as a French jet, marcher la planche = walk the plank. When Modelzone were in trouble they were selling a lot of stock off cheaply, I came away with half a dozen Academy F-84E/Gs at £4.99 a pop! This is one of those kits, I'll be doing it in the markings of ER2/33, a reconnaissance unit based at Cognac, deep in the Charente department of France in 1955, the decals are courtesy of Model Art. The wingtip fuel tanks feature a stylised seagull, the historical markings of SAL6, the unit continues as a reconnaissance unit to this day, equipped with the MQ-9 Reaper. The subject aircraft can be seen here, if you look closely, you can see a camera fairing on the belly of the aircraft beneath the cockpit, hopefully, somebody can help out with the details of this (Patrice @TEMPESTMK5 what do you know)? Here'e the box... ...the contents... ...and the decals. I like the Academy kit, it's not a shake and bake kit, it needs some effort especially around the inserts on the fuselage where the panels depicting an E/very early G (no auxiliary intakes), or standard G (auxiliary intakes), also, it does have some sink marks (notably on the wing upper surfaces above the wheel well walls), but I'm happier dealing with that than I am mucking up a Tamiya kit at several times the cost (I can already hear you asking "Who can muck up a Tamiya kit", "Well!!!..." I reply and passing my drink to somebody to hold while I demonstrate that I am that man). I just hope I haven't bitten off more than I can chew time wise!

I’m guessing this is the Italeri kit with new decals based on the price but will be happy to be proven wrong. https://www.hlj.com/1-48-scale-f-a-18f-super-hornet-us-navy-special-paint-tam38104

This Kit has been such a pleasure to make .... 5th model now... think i'm getting the idea. 🤓 BUILD DIARY

ok here we go..... This is the version i'm going to do - as now restored at Duxford. No 3rd Party Items just things i had knocking around at home ... like the odd bit of wire Later found out that the IFF? tranmitter should not be there? oh well its there now! First time using photo eched parts ...interesting Just taped in place.... the fit is just great on this kit! Another day another few bits of primer... Mr Surfacer 1500 naturally Same bits detail painted Cut the tail elevators to droop a little. All orifices filled - ready for a coat of Tamiya Surfacer. The undercarriage covering panels are just blue tacked in place ... i thought better than having two undercarrige stalks poking out in the way. Never used Tamiya Surface Primer before .... lets see! Seems Ok... Its bought out some details i had not even seen before Thats it for now.....

Hi Modellers My F-14 Tamiya in 48 scale Managed to squeeze an Eduard Cockpit fitted with Quintadecals into it. Eduards Cockpit is not meant to be built into a closed model, thats for sure. Alpha probe and camera underneath the nose aftermarket, exhaust a mix from reskit and KA models. Decals a mix of furball and modelkasten and homemade (because i f... up) Paints Gunze, Tamiya and Oils from various art material suppliers. Took me a looong time and since this wish started in 1995 i kept the Jolly Rogers theme. But in all grey as i am myself now. Thanks for watching.

Good day, Finally I am able to post something for this year. A previous failed project consumed the first month and half of the new year so here is my first submission for 2024. This is the Tamiya F-16C displayed from the 57th Fighter Weapons Squadron at Nellis AFB, Nevada. The highlights are as follows………… 1. Paints used : A. Airframe : Vallejo Pale Brown, USAF Tan, US Forest Green, USAF Medium Gray B. Exhaust : Exterior - AK Extreme Pale Burnt Metal ( Tamiya Black Panel Line wash ), Steel. Interior - AK Buff with Tamiya Black & Brown panel line wash C. Misc : Tamiya Flat Black, Flat White, Gun Metal, Metallic Gray, Lifecolor Dark Gull Gray, Polly Scale Lt Ghost Gray ( FS36375 ), AK Deep Blue 2. Wolf Pack AN/ALQ-188 ECM pod ( centerline station ) and dual chin pods ( all three resin ), Italeri ACMI pod ( port wing rail ) 3. Twobobs decals ( Fighting Fulcrums #72-002 ) 4. Master metal pitot tube & AOA tubes 5. Washes : Vallejo black, dark gray, light gray. Tamiya black, brown Tamiya continues it`s reputation of excellence with this kit. There were no issues with the parts fitting together without major or even minor surgery. I used putty in just a couple of small sections of the kit. I decided to include the pilot figure. I used my customary plumber`s putty and small lead fishing sinkers for ballast in order to have the Viper sit right. I inserted the putty and sinkers inside the nose and just aft of the cockpit. Despite the age of the decals, ( I cannot believe just how long I had these decals for ), they adhered and settled well with solution. I chose the early release from Tamiya of the F-16C for this particular subject as it did not require anything under the wings ( although I could have as some Aggressor Vipers tote external fuel tanks and four missile launch rails ). I enjoyed this kit very much and recommend it for all skill levels. Thank you in advance. Respectfully submitted, Mike

Welcome dear friends to my latest build. The Hyakushiki shitei lll Recon plane in 1/48 scale by Tamiya. This will be my first ever Japanese aeroplane and my return to aeroplanes in general after a few months off doing various group builds. It’s a subject (like most of my other builds) that I know little about but plan to learn on the job. I love the look of this beast and it’s been working its way to the top of the stash for a while. Here’s My typical starting position for now as I want to get the thread running. A tidy bench after the last build and a nice unopened box of goodies. I hope you’ll join along to keep me company and hopefully give some sage advice. More after Dinah. 😉 (Sorry) Johnny

Having bitten off way more than I could chew in a fit of enthusiasm during the Salty Sea Dog GB, I'm left with several builds still on the go. I think in the interests of not wasting mod time, I'll just continue them in new threads here. The first half of the build, along with most of the research can be found here: This one has stagnated for a while, and it actually has taken a lot of modifications to take the (initially hoped for shake and bake) Tamiya kit to convert her to her configuration at the time of sinking in April '42. Still, we've had some colour. I hope you'll forgive some comparisons, they're not intended to show off my shonky work, rather for me to see some side-by-sides to work out which guesses were right, which were wrong, and what subsequent modifications and remedial work I need to make. Bizarrely, the easiest way to do that seems to be posting them here over incessantly clicking between internet tabs and photo windows. ( /\ this photo is actually a slightly earlier configuration) Nothing like some zoomed in shots to show up how shonky your work is! Andy

Supermarine Spitfire Mk.Vb, EP829 T-N, 249 Squadron, Qrendi, Malta, April to May 1943. Sqn Ldr John J Lynch. Malta's 1000th victory Subject; Supermarine Spitfire Mk.Vb, non-tropicalised, clipped wings, x2 Hispano Suiza 20mm cannons and x4 Browning .303's Manufacturer; Tamiya Scale; 1/48 Kit number; 61033 Aftermarket; Eduard Zoom P.E set. Eduard decals. Paints; Exterior upper, AK Real Colour RAF Middle Stone and Dark Earth overpainted with custom mix of RAF Extra Dark Sea Grey and XF8 Flat Blue. Lower, mix of XF23 Light Blue, XF19 Sky Grey and XF2 Flat White for the AM Sky. Interior; AK Real Colour RAF Interior Grey Green and Xtreme Metal Matt Aluminium. X7 for the wing tips. Various Tamiya X, XF and LP and Posca pens for detailing. Primer; Mr Surfacer 1200 Varnish; AK Gauzy Shine Agent and Tamiya X35 Semi-Gloss. Weathering; Flory Dark Dirt and Grime wash, Abteilung oils, Ammo North Africa pigment and Tamiya weathering palettes. Extras; Prym Knitting Elastic for the antenna wires.

My first plane model in 40 years (usually it's tanks), I was inspired by the description in AK Real Colours for Night being a mix of a blue and black. Went for the Tamiya P-47M 1/48 - it's from 2005 (61096) - excellent model, any fault with the construction was mine and not due to the model! As I paint with rattle cans I got a custom filled rattle can and settled on RAL 5004 ie a very, very dark blue. I did try it out on various undercoats as testers and found it was too blue, when used on black undercoat. So finally went for a pale grey, as the final colour looked more black The weathering and inspiration for the model came from AK 56th fighter group in WW2 - the colour and weathering for the drop tanks, undercarriage doors, wheels, I lifted straight from the cover. Overall learnt an awful lot that I will carry over to my next plane, as I have the aviation bug now, including: - Pencils are harder to use than oils and scratch the base paint (I used only pencils on this) and the colour changes to a whiter look with the clear coat - The decals in the 56th FG book were awful and totally the wrong colour( great book, terrible decals), the decals in the box were (old?) difficult to get to sit on the model, even with a gloss layer for them to sit on, so I will go with spraying markings next time (as I do on tanks) -I'm sure most of you know this already, I didn't but the the Tamiya model was a masterclass in what a model should be for the way it all fitted together - I will actually be drawn to Tamiya planes first after this I have started a Loire 130 and looking to see what other aircraft I will do next.

My first build for the GB will be Tamiya's venerable Mosquito FB,VI in 1/48 scale, this will be my second build of this kit as I did one in 418 Sqn RCAF several years ago, I also built an older Airfix 1/48 one for the last "Less Than A Tenner GB" which was actually a nice build. Here's a picture of this time's box and contents; I have worked for Rolls Royce for more years than I care to remember and before some idiot decided to close it I was on their Ansty site just outside Coventry which was used by Standard Motors during the war to produce around 500 FB,VI's so when I build an FB.VI I like to build one that was built on that site, which means building one from either the HP, HR, RF or TE range. Now Warwickshire (my home county) also has a Royal Auxiliary Air Force Squadron and during the later stages of WWII it flew Moqsuitos on intruder missions and bomber support missions as part of 100 Group and after a couple of months on F.II's it was equipped with FB.VI's and I have found some of their serial numbers that include aircraft built by Standard Motors at Ansty so the build would have two local connections. I have found serials as I say but as of yet no photographs and if I can't find any I will need to either just build one in it's known codes and serial in the squadron's standard camo or build another Standard Motors built aircraft that I do have both the markings for and photographic evidence. I have several options in the decal stash to choose from and also have an Eduard Brassin Look set that I picked up at Telford somewhere, I shall post pics of this and any final choice of airframe later. Off topic but important to me is the fact that this will be my first build without my modelling buddy for the last 13 years, Mabel my black lab who we had to say goodbye to on Wednesday. I tend to do a lot of my modelling in our front room sitting on the floor and she would come and lie next to me, or actually sit on me which is about as comfortable as you imagine, to keep me company. It has been difficult losing her and sitting on the floor to build something will be very strange without her, so this will be for her, Mabel's Mossie if you will. This is her towards the end; Sorry for going off topic but thanks for looking in and any help, comments or criticisms will be gratefully received. Craig.

Got this finished last month. I used the Vector wheel bays, P-47 upgrade set and M/N prop. Wheels are Ultracast ones and the 75 gallon drop tank is from Edaurd's Brassin range. K-14 gunsight from Aires. Painted with Alclad II for the NMF and Humbrol enamels for the rest. Decals are from Zotz, with the Insignias and stencils from the kit and a few Eduard stencils. I changed the seat near the end of the build to an Ultracast square type as I had incorrectly used the earlier type from the kit. (Click on the photos for a larger image).

I have only been back to modeling as an adult since 2020, and I'm fairly good (so far) at finishing what I start, but I had begun this 1/72 Tamiya Il-2 back in late 2020, so pretty much three years ago, and eventually it got shelved. Honestly, I think I was a bit overwhelmed with how good the kit was! At the time I had never encountered such high quality! Anyway, I got into other kits and especially some of my projects modeling a/c in the markings of lesser seen air forces (i.e., Hawker Hurricanes around the World, Last Legs Ponies, Minor Gustavs, Sexy American Singles in South American Service, and Spitfires-by-the-Seas). Continuing that interest, some time ago I decided instead of building the IL-2 into one of the Soviet box versions I would try to obtain Mongolian air force markings, which I was successful in doing eventually by finding one of the lousy Airfix kits that includes the Mongolian decals. Here are the main pieces, most of which have already been partially painted prior to assembly (don't ask). Time to get this one done!

After many hours of reading in this quite busy GB I figured I might have to give it a go myself. Looking through the shelves at my local store I found a Tamiya Beaufighter that I’ve been wanting to build in the past. Ever since getting back into the hobby during the pandemic though, I have had massive issues with actually finishing my builds. Usually I have a good flow until the first error, and then it just dies out. So, my main goal with this one is just to have a finished model built straight out of the box. No fancy detailing or complicated schemes. Just a “simple” gray/green. I apologize in advance for any inaccuracies. The added social pressure of all you knowing what I have started should hopefully help me keep the focus on this one and not be tempted by all the other shiny boxes in the stash. Bags will probably remain unbroken until my local groups build night this coming Tuesday. Thanks for stopping by. Hopefully I'll have an update soon.

So...... time for a much needed Tamiya build. After the Bordermodel Stug i want to start a new diorama with some Tamiya builds and some leftover bots and pieces from other kits. i think these 2 models will make an excellent scene. I still have some resin figures in the stash but i also ordered some new ones: I'm thinking France early 1940 or Operation Barbarossa. The kits itself look really good for their age. The krupp got new molds in 2003 i think and there is an excellent driver figure in there. Anyhow, i think these models are just what i need, simple oob, tamiya fit. So let's crack on shall we? Cheers guys 🍻🍻🍻

Hello to all, After the amazing saga my last build has been (a vintage race car, the Fiat 806 Corsa at 1/12 Italeri, see if interested the summarize here: Of course, many builds have ever been dedicated to the Tamiya P 51D Mustang, especially on Britmodeller... I saw particularly the Squibby one, begun very recently and very nice, that will be definitely a source of inspiration. But as every build is different and personal, I decided to dive again in the Brit bath! I must precise too that I will take a good part of my inspiration in the great Juan Manuel Villalba DVD, for which I made the translation in french for the subtitles. Juan is a very famous modeler and a real gentleman, who learnt me a lot in model making and photography, he is a master and a friend, even if we couldn't meet up to now (we live far away one to the other one, pity...). Before beginning the build, a word of history: John Brooke England was born in 1923 at Caruthersville, Missouri. His service number was O-739263 and he joined the 362nd FS of the 357th FG in April 1943 as a 1/Lt meaning that he was part of the original cadre that left the ZI in November 1943 for the UK. He was promoted to Captain and then to Major. He took command of the 362nd FS on 25 August 1944, while he was only 21. He served two tours with the 357th FG for a total of 108 operational missions giving a total of 460 hours combat flying time. He was the second highest scorer in the 357th with a total of 17.5 victories. England finished his second tour and rotated home on 26 January 1945. He remained in the service after the war and was killed in an F-86 crash in November 1954 in France. I began my build logically by preparing the parts of the section 1 and some other ones, placing them in a box with compartments, that I got in the Italeri's kit (one of the best part of this kit, definitely 😞 N.B: I just made the photo, so the radio compartment is ever begun... After the parts preparation, I began the cockpit by removing some details to replace them by new ones (arrow 1, and the radio). I didn't use the Eduard P.E part 47, too thin, and replaced it by 0,3 mm thick tin wire (arrow 3) I must precise now that, differently with Juan, who made the radio by total scratch (amazing), I used the very recent Eduard photoetched set for Airfix kit (ref. 49853), that I had to adapt to the Tamiya kit: N.B: here too, I just made the photo, some parts have been removed and ever used. The screws on the side were made from very small portions cut in 0,2 mm thick tin wire (Juan cuts in stretched plastic). The tabs come from another Eduard PE set. N.B: I had to adapt the A 17 Tamiya part to the Eduard 42 one, smaller (for Airfix) and accidently, I cut a portion of the floor and radio support. Of course, I will do the necessary correction... IMPORTANT: I have decided (lately, I had to edit my posts) to number the pics: - the assembly pics will be numbered in yellow - the docs will be numbered in black (white if the background is black). The different versions (enlargements, fe) of a same doc will have a letter a, b, c... after the number. So, it will be easier to mention a pic in the debates we should have. GLOSSARY: this glossary will refer to the numbered docs. Of course, it will be actualized along the way... - 108 gallon paper tanks: 20a, 23, 23a, 94, 94a, 95, 96, 107, 108, 109, 110, 111, 112, 113, 114, 115, 116, 119, 128, 129, 131, 132, 133, 134a, 137d - radio compartment and fuselage tank: 1, 1a, 1b, 1c, 1d, 2, 3, 4, 4a, 4b, 6, 7, 8, 9, 9a, 10, 11, 12, 15, 26, 30, 65, 66 - outside, rivets: 90, 97, 97a, 97b, 98, 98a, 98b, 99, 101, 102, 103, 103a, 104, 104a, 117, 118, 137b c d, 138a b c, 139 - gear strut and wheels: 23a, 23b, 106, 106a, 120, 134a, 137b - tail wheel: 121, 122, 123, 124, 125, 130, 138b - John England: 24, 24a, 24b, 24c, 25, 106 - joystick: 46, 49b, 62, 70, 71, 72, 73, 75, 76 - Missouri Armada: 20, 20a, 21, 22, 23, 23a, 100, 106, 118 - left panel: 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 57, 58, 58a, 59, 60, 60a, 74, 84, 85, 88 - right panel: 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 88 - pedals: 52, 79, 80 - cockpit floor and details: 46, 46a, 47, 48, 48b, 49, 49a, 49b, 61, 62, 62a, 64, 67, 68, 69, 70, 80, 81, 82, 83 - seat, seat support, cushion and seat belts: 5, 5a, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 18a, 30, 31, 32, 33, 33a, 34, 35, 36, 37, 37a, 38, 39, 40, 137c - instrument panel: 87, 88 - canopy and rail: 18a, 18b, 19, 27, 28, 29, 89, 90, 91, 91a, 92, 92a, 93, 101, 118, 137a - radiator area: 77, 78, 86, 137d, 138a - helix and nose: 104, 106, 118, 134b - landing gear wells: 138a N.B: Lately, I have abandoned the idea of numbering the docs, for several reasons, among others : - some docs that I first considered as very important had finally to be not good. It is the case for example of the ones showing the rivets lines 97 and 98. - it is difficult (and sometimes unfair) to decide that such a doc is more important than another one. - numbering the docs is time consuming and we can refer easily to a doc by mentioning the post#. - small and small, a lot of docs and infos have been brought in the thread, which has turned in a real reference one, thanks to the contribution of experts on the matter. Thank you for your comprehension, I hope you will enjoy the thread...

Hello to all, Even if my endless Ford Mustang 1964 1/2 Convertible at 1/16 scale is not over: I begin a new build and thread dedicated to the 2014 Honda Repsol 213V Tamiya at 1/12. Even if this awesome GP motorbike will require a lot of care, it should be more simple than the Mustang, for which a lot of scratch was and still is necessary considering the quite poor AMT kit and the fact that I made a conversion from a Coupe to a Convertible. As my Mustang project is the priority, this Honda build will go on very slowly first (that is why I hesitated to open a new thread now). Here are below the first pics I made, engine build: N.B: I painted the clutch but in fact, I should not use the Tamiya part, that is not very realistic. I ordered a Top Studio detail set in which a more convincing PE/ resin clutch is provided. But I should not get this set before several weeks... Talking about detail sets, I will certainly order also the Tamiya detail set (front fork ref. 12667), waiting the latter to be in stock again on Passion 132. Cheers, O

So my shelf of shame is getting a bit busy, a change of job and various other factors seem to have reduced my ability to get things fixed together. This is my entry (there are more to come for the GB, if I can get the time). I originally started it in the classic Japanese GB, thread here: Alpine Renault A442B Turbo - Big In Japan - Classic Japanese Kits GB - Britmodeller.com The kit is a pretty simple affair but seems to have been fighting me all through the build. The kit supplied decals have seriously yellowed over the years, though are actually usable (if a bit brittle), the aftermarket ones however had their own issues - firstly they didn't supply the larger area ones (for some of the white areas and black ones) and the white decals are somewhat less than opaque - especially on the bright yellow background. I used the kit decals for the black areas, decided to overpaint the logos (badly) and will attach the decals on top. The actual areas I masked seemed to come out relatively well (the large white areas at the front and rear) - though it was a bit of a struggle initially getting enough white primer and gloss white on to cover the kit plastic yellow, only to overcoat most of it with yellow! I should have masked up and airbrushed the black too, and done the smaller areas in white in hindsight. Here's a shot of the side, showing just how badly my brush painted black bits are on the sills, also the difference in colour between the white areas - the lower left one is just the kit decal (and appears to have a bit of a weird yellow/orange tint) - the other two however, I'd come up with a cunning plan.. As you may have noticed in the previous image there is a small piece of paper at the front. I used my scanner/printer to effectively photocopy the decal sheet - this can then be transferred (using masking tape, which takes up the print) to the backing of some white decal sheet, cut to size (slightly smaller to fit inside the black border) and applied as a second layer of white! The decal film sheet itself isn't completely opaque but together they do a good enough job. You can use the inkjet to print directly onto the other side of the decal film (I did try this) however I guess because the film is plastic and non-absorbent the ink never seems to dry and easily smudges - not a problem in my case as I was cutting off the exterior print and not needing an actual pattern. The reverse image method (on the back side) seems better as I don't need to worry about the masking tape ripping the film and it gets discarded when you water slide the backing off - for my needs it's fine as the decals are pretty much mirrored left/right on the car. Other than the white translucency the aftermarket Shunko decals have given me other issues - they supply the black stripes to go around the white areas painted which have been somewhat of a PITA as they are thin and prone to snapping but on the bright side they do distract the eye/cover any minor mistakes on the masking. In hindsight I should have probably just placed all the original Tamiya decals on and then over applied the aftermarket ones for most of the white areas (I did that for the decals on the air scoop and I think it looks fine). There is a reason some kits end up never getting finished but I'm hopeful I can at least get to the point of calling this one done, even if it has tested me along the way!