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  1. Ex Luftwaffe F-104G. Pictures by Sven Harjaek taken at La Bourget museum Paris.
  2. Hi guys, I'd like to present to you another masterpiece build my my friend Akira Watanabe (some may remember his Wessex I posted on here a while ago). It's an F-104G, Belgian Air Force, 1:32, based on the Hasegawa kit with many modifications. It fits in well with the current F-104 theme on Britmodeller. I've had the pleasure of seeing the model in person twice, once while still in the building stages in Spring and then completed in Autumn last year. It's absolutely amazing and full of great ideas and techniques. For instance, the whole rear fuselage, the nose cone and wing tanks and under wing pylons are attached by magnets and everything can come off for safe transport in a cleverly designed carrier box!! It can also be displayed in two completely different configurations, as a target tow aircraft or with four tanks and practice bomb dispenser. Here is the link to the build with extensive in-progress descriptions: http://nabe3saviation.web.fc2.com/modelF104.html and the main website: http://nabe3saviation.web.fc2.com/index.html Cheers Jeffrey
  3. "Hey, Ridley!" "Yeah?" "You got any Beeman's?" "I might have Mystic." "Well loan me some, would ya? I'll pay ya back later." "Fair enough!" "I think I see a plane over there with my name on it!" The film was "The Right Stuff" back in 1983 and this was the cue for Chuck Yeagar's flight in the F-104 Starfighter which. for me, is still one of the most thrilling aviation sequences ever filmed. I started this kit three years ago and it depicts 63-13269, one of the two Lockheed F-104G Starfighters used in the film. It is unusual in being mainly covered in silver foil to try to give an accurate metallic effect. She measures 22 inches in length. The kit is the old 1980 vintage Revell 1/32nd scale F-104G Starfighter, I think I got it on eBay for about £8! It is a very straightforward build, not too detailed, goes together fairly well. It does have raised panel lines which is perfect for 'foiling' and as you can see here I have been able to add different shaded panels especially at the 'hot' end of the plane. Overall the foil went on well, I also used Humbrol 27001 metallic paint in a couple of areas, also a rattle can of Halfords Aluminium spray. The white wings upper surfaces were sprayed Halfords Appliance White. The decals were a mix from the original kit, the spares box, and a few from a Victory decals set. She first flew on 2nd March 1962 and became the 69th TFTS Commander's aircraft at Luke AFB in Arizona in 1980 wearing "Fighting 69th" tail art. She starred in the film "The Right Stuff" in 1982; the pilots were Lt Col Robert Patterson (USAF) and Oberstleutnant Heinrich Thueringer (GAF); she was flown until end of operation at Luke AFB on March 16, 1983. She was struck off charge order July 19, 1983 and transferred to Taiwan (ROCAF) in 1983 coded "4383" under project "Ali Shan No.8" to 2 Wing. She was withdrawn from use August 6, 1996 and written off in 1st Depot at Pingtung AB, then scrapped. And this is her in the sun. Have to say I am really pleased with this build and I want to dedicate it to Major Mike Vivian (USAF Retd) who helped train German pilots as an Instructor Pilot with the 58th Tactical Fighter Training Wing at Luke AFB in the early 80's. As always all inaccuracies and mistakes are purely mine! Michael
  4. I've always been fascinated by the Starfighter, it's such a beautiful (and weird) looking machine and I've never build one - so I decided to put that right. I opted for the Eduard "Bundesfighter" kit as I saw it reduced – superb Hasegawa plastic, with 10 decal options and plenty of PE and resin goodies included - what's not to like! I chose the Bavarian scheme because coincidentally I saw the actual aircraft at the Luftwaffe museum at Berlin Gatow quite a few years ago. It's been repainted and stuck on a pole since it's glory days in the 80s though. It's a great kit but probably at the extreme end of my skill level with some tricky (and very small) detail work in the cockpit - I left the canopy loose as I couldn't bare to seal up all the work, hence it doesn't fit in some of the photos. Anyway, here's some pictures, hope you enjoy them!
  5. My first build on the forum, Eduards F-104G "NATOfighter" - a starfighter to you and me! I will be building the Dutch varient, of the Royal Netherlands Air Force, flown by famous Dutch pilot "Capt. Hans van der Werf" - partly because of the decals (I love the shark teeth nose art!) and its more colourful and interesting design. Detailed in box reviews can be found elsewhere but I can say the plastic is of a high quality, with no injection flow issues or other. PE and Resin is very nice, and decals to be expected of cartograf. More to follow.
  6. Model Art from Japan has just released a 1/48th Lockheed NF-104A Starfighter conversion set. Sources: https://www.facebook.com/modelartinc/posts/1496633993744813 https://www.amazon.co.jp/dp/B0711ZC7FG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_880jzb61M8EQQ V.P.
  7. I've fallen in love with the Starfighter, having watched the video of the recent return to flight of the Norwegian CF104-D. I'd like to have a go at modelling one in Norwegian colours - what's the best example out there? Probably 1/48 and are there aftermarket decals out there for it? https://www.facebook.com/starfighter.no/videos/1444501105577450/
  8. Ok so this one joins my now fleet of three 1:32 F104G Starfighters! The other two were Italeri and this one is a very old Hasegawa kit which was devoid of any detail but ok to build. Thanks to Steve aka Triplex29 who gave me some great information for the build - nice one! Colours were mixture of MrColor, Tamiya and Alclad and the only aftermarket was the pitot. The decals were left over from the Italeri kits as the kit decals were shot to pieces. I don't think the bang seat is the correct one but can correct this later. So I need to find space for more of these! Spanish, Japanese and Danish versions all in my thought processes! Need the forthcoming TF104 as well So some photos of this build and its squadron mates! Chris Edit - just loaded the photos again after the PhotoBucket debacle!
  9. Ok so I decided to build both of my Italeri 1:32 Starfighter kits together as I couldn't decide what schemes to do! In the opted for the following: Italian Air Force F104G 154 Gruppo, 6 Stormo, Ghedi 1971 Marineflieger Geschwade 2, Eggbeck 1973 I thoroughly enjoyed both builds - excellent detail and a good fit except the tail section which was a devils own job to mate with the main fuselage. Both kits we made out of the box with only canopy masks and Eduard cockpit detail as extras. Paints were all Tamiya this time with Alclad for the metal areas. Since I've started mixing Tamiya with Mr Color leveling thinner I have been getting excellent results and for me Tamiya is easier to get hold of locally. Big thank you to 'IanF' who stepped in with a replacement decal for the Italian aircraft as I had made a hash of it! Anyway the photos - will try and get a few more done tomorrow Chris
  10. F-104 Martin Baker Mk.7 & C2 Ejection Seats (648287 & 648286 for Hasegawa) 1:48 Eduard Brassin The F-104 used three ejection seats during its career, the initial C1 that fired downward, and killed quite a number of pilots, which was replaced by the C2, again designed by Lockheed. Some export airframes were refitted with Martin-Baker Mk.7s by their new owners, which as zero/zero seats gave the pilots a much higher chance of survival in a wider flight envelope over the C2, which didn't have that capability and had a minimum flight speed of over 100mph. Eduard's Brassin line swells by two new seats with the release of these two sets. As usual with Eduard's resin sets, they arrive in the familiar Brassin clamshell box, with the resin parts safely cocooned on dark grey foam inserts, and the instructions sandwiched between the two halves, doubling as the header card. Both sets include resin parts, pre-painted nickel-plated Photo-Etch (PE), and a small sheet of decals for the stencils. Lockheed C2 Ejection Seat (648286) Four resin parts make up the main body of the seat, with a choice of two types of seat cushion. The ejection rail is added to the kit interior, with horizontal rails made of PE before the seat itself is installed, but first the pre-painted belts must be installed after painting the resin parts using the colour call-outs from the Gunze range. A coat of clear gloss will be needed over the paint in order to apply the decals, which will give the detail a further lift. Martin Baker MK.7 Ejection Seat (648287) Consisting of five resin parts, a PE set and a small sheet of stencil decals, the ejection rail is almost identical to the C2 set, but the seat has two separate back cushions, plus a resin oxygen hose. After painting, gloss and application of decals the PE belts are added to finish off the job along with the pull handles to initiate the ejection process. Review sample courtesy of
  11. Afternoon folks - I have on its way an old Hasegawa 1:32 F104J and I am assuming the decals won't be of much use! I've had a quick look around and can't see who does aftermarket decals for Japanese Starfighters in 1:32 Can anyone point in the right direction? thanks Chris
  12. Ex USAF & Royal Jordanian Air Force F-104A 56-779. At the Cavanaugh Flight Museum, Texas. Pics thanks to Nigel Heath. It is noticeable that the tail number is 56-780, It appears that 56-779 received the tail section of 56-780 sometime while in USAF service. The visible sign of identifying an aircraft is by the serial number on the tail so after this happened, aircraft #779 effectively became #780. (see http://www.cavanaughflightmuseum.com/index.php/component/content/article/77)
  13. Here's a very long shot. It was either 84 or 85 I was walking home from school and this F-104 flew over at a great rate of knots very low going over Salisbury Plain. I vividly remember that noise of the J79, it had 4 fuel tanks fitted but could not make out any markings as it was a brief glance and it had gone. Now this was a rare sighting so I'm assuming it was part of a nato exercise in the uk, would anybody have an idea of the 104 that I may have seen. Steve
  14. My first 1:32 scale model and my first and last time working with such large decals The black and yellow paint job was pretty fun though.
  15. All done! My first completed model in several years, and the first I've ever weathered up! Took nearly three months of restocking paints and whatnot, but I think it turned out quite nicely Did my best to match the griminess of the movie model Gaz.
  16. Evening all, It's taken longer than I had hoped, but I've finally completed my X-Wing to go the TIE Fighter I finished last month. It's another Bandai kit, and goes together beautifully, although it a bit more of an involved build compared to the TIE. I found it easiest to leave the main components disassembled for painting and weathering, not that this is a problem given the incredible fit. All markings were masked and painted in place of the supplied decals so that I could chip the paint more effectively- although I might have gone a touch overboard in that respect- in fact, the only decals used are on R2-D2 and Luke's helmet. All colours were Xtracolor, and were matched as close as I could with the shades I have available to the colours of the decals. In all, I've used fifteen or more colours on all the various panels, so plenty of masking for minimal airbrushing, hence the protracted build time. Up close, the finish is a little rougher than I'd have liked but doesn't look too bad from a few feet. As before, the base is a piece of Aluminium/Acrylic composite routed to shape before the rebel logo was laser engraved into it. All in all, another brilliantly fun build Bandai 1/72 T-65 X-Wing Starfighter by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Bandai 1/72 T-65 X-Wing Starfighter by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Bandai 1/72 T-65 X-Wing Starfighter by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Bandai 1/72 T-65 X-Wing Starfighter by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Bandai 1/72 T-65 X-Wing Starfighter by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Bandai 1/72 T-65 X-Wing Starfighter by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Of course, I had to take a shot or two with it's adversary... Bandai 1/72 T-65 X-Wing Starfighter by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Bandai 1/72 T-65 X-Wing Starfighter by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Thanks for looking, comments welcomed as ever, Cheers, Shaun
  17. <<SKIP THIS IF YOU WANT TO GET STRAIGHT TO THE MODEL BUILD>> So a little bit of back story before I get to the fun stuff. So this build took place over the space of 48hrs and was a mad rush of a Christmas present for a friend of mine who is quite possibly the worst person to buy for in history. So it has now become apparent that I must make stuff for him stat h cant get anywhere else, so this x-wing is a one of a kind because even if I painted it again, it would not be exactly the same. <<END OF BACK STORY>> So I opened this Revel easy kit with the understanding that I would need to re-paint the whole thing from scratch and in my opinion that's exactly what has to be done. The paintwork is passable for your younglings if they wish to build their first model and put it on their shelf. They could eveN practice their detailing, washes and dry brushing on it to make it really pop. But for those modellers that need to make an impact on everyone who sees their work you will need a blank canvas. So below are some photos of the unboxed pieces. Pretty bland paintwork. The initial paintwork has been put directly onto the black plastic and gives a very unrealistic glossy finish to what should be the metal armour of a starfighter so this is my main issue with the original pieces. So first things first, masking, because unless you have the steadiest hand ever, achieving the pin width lines on the nose of the x-wing will be a hell of a lot easier. I would go over the orange and grey panels that revel painted on later with my own orange and grey mix. I then went straight into vallejo black surface primer (2-3 coats) this was essential in order to ensure adhesion of the paint and then 2 coats of Tamiya flat black all airbrushed. Once the black and the primer were done the rest was achieved using brushes. I focussed mainly on the s-foils to begin with, applying the orange detailing first. This was very nearly a disaster, as I first used Humbrol enamel orange which went well and truly wrong. It ended with me wiping it all off and starting from scratch with some custom mixed orange from red Vallejo and yellow Yamiya acrylic paints. It was a close call though so in my opinion be very careful with Humbrol paints. The s-foils and their additional panels and air intakes were then washed and dry brushed (before being assembled with the main body of the starfighter. Parallel to all of the s-foil painting I was applying detailing to all of the cockpit and the mechanical parts of the fighter. The easy kit is surprisingly detailed and has plenty of opportunities to experiment and include as much detail as you want. Once I was happy with the detail of the cockpit and the s-foil mechanics I was happy to assemble the model. Make sure you are absolutely happy before putting any of the pieces together. Easy kit means snap kit so once snapped together there is no going back without potentially destroying the model, YE HAVE BEEN WARNED. The following lot of pic's are of the final completed model which had undergone vallejo washing and dry brushing. I also added some scorch marks to the exhaust nozzle to show wear an tear and some additional detailing to the panelling once I had seen the movie again (perfect excuse ) So that's the full story, I hope you enjoyed this post as its my first any feedback is very welcome.
  18. Happy new year, everyone! My Wingnut Wings FE.2b (early) has been stalled for some time, so I took the opportunity to build the Hasegawa F-104G/S Starfighter in 1/32 with my son. It has very little rigging and was a great way to get back into action. We used Leading Edge decal to represent the out-of-box F-104G as a CF-104. I know this isn't really accurate at all: We should have deleted the gun on the port side, and the wings are the wrong color. This was a holiday build, though, and we didn't want to deduct from our swimming and biking time by worrying too much about that. On with the show: (Is Cold Lake not the most Canadian place name, ever?) So there you go. No fancy heat discoloration in the aft part of the fuselage, nothing like that. But we're happy with it and hope you like it too. Cheers.
  19. F-104 Pylons (for Hasegawa/Eduard) 1:48 Eduard Brassin Following the recent reboxing of the Hasegawa kit of the original man-in-a-missile, Eduard's Brassin guys have released a super-detailed set of pylons and fittings for their kit that will also go well with many of the Hasegawa boxings. The set arrives in the familiar Brassin clamshell box, with the resin parts safely cocooned on dark grey foam inserts, and the instructions sandwiched between the two halves, doubling as the header card. Inside the box are a surprisingly large number of resin parts, a small Photo-Etch (PE) fret, and a large (for the size of set) decal sheet, the latter found in between the substantial instruction booklet. There are twenty three parts in mid-grey resin, with two additional clear resin parts separately bagged. From the box you can build the following: 2 x BL75 Underwing Pylons with options for unladen, fuel tanks only or bombs only fitments using PE and resin small parts. 2 x Kormoran Pylons with resin sway-braces and PE attachment surface details. 1 x Centreline Pylon with resin attachment lugs. 2 x Red Dog Wingtip Launch Rails, which require the very tips of the kit wings to be trimmed to accommodate them. 1 x Aero-3 NATO Catamaran Launch Rails with resin adapter rails and cross braces. Each weapon type has a scrap diagram showing painting and decaling options using Gunze colours, and even shows which holes need to be drilled out on the kit parts where appropriate. There is a placement diagram toward the rear of the instructions to show where each pylon is sited on the aircraft in case you are unfamiliar with the type. Conclusion The detail far exceeds that available from even the best injection moulded parts, and the attention to the stencils, coupled with the finesse of the parts will add realism to any Starfighter model. Review sample courtesy of
  20. Instead of making a seperate thread for each of my (many) projects I will post them here. All kits are Hasegawa 1/48th scale. First off is my F-104G from Taiwan:
  21. Ok this and my Uboat are the final builds of 2014 - a good year for my modelling I am pleased to say! I have had this kit for ages and was put off doing it as I haven't as yet mastered NMF! I then came across some decals for Vietnam era Starfighters and bolstered by the success of my SEA camo Super Sabre I decided to go for it. I then decided I would try doing the camo 'free hand'. This actually went well and I now feel confident doing more this way - which of course is quicker and doesn't involve reams of Tamiya tape! I used Mr Color paints, Eduard paint mask etc Anyway let me have your comments etc Chris
  22. F-104 Pylons (2 sets) 1:32 VideoAviation There have been large scale F-104 kits floating about for years, but as well as the Revell kit, we have the Hasegawa and Italeri kits to satisfy your desire for a manned missile in 1:32. VideoAviation have produced these two neat resin sets to improve the look of the stores, as well as providing things not in the kit box. Mk.25 Luftwaffe Practice Bomb Dispenser There's not much to say other than this is a resin set of the sub-munitions dispenser used by the Luftwaffe, which contains ten parts and comes with decals to stencil the finished article. Four cylindrical bomblets with square noses as well as four more that look somewhat like mortar bombs are included, which gives you a choice of bomb load for the two-part container, which has attachment lugs on the top-side, and curved shackles on the lower. The instructions are straight-forward, and includes a stencilling guide, as well as colour call-outs for the dispenser and bomblets. Casting is good quality, detail is well defined, and the pouring stubs have been sensibly placed to ease construction. Remember not to breathe in the dust, and do wash the parts before painting, and construction should be a pleasant experience. Wing Pylon & Centreline Pylon Two highly detailed pylons for the wing mounting points, with separate tail section and sway braces are supplied, plus a very nicely done central pylon along with a scrap diagram on placement. The pylons are handed, with instructions to place them with the small access doors away from the fuselage for correct alignment. A nice, simple upgrade for the kit. Review sample courtesy of
  23. Hi all, I have a question for the F-104 experts out there. What are the differences between the cockpits of the TF-104 and the F-104DJ? The reason I ask is because I'm thinking of using Aires' TF-104 1/48 cockpit in my Hasegawa F-104DJ. Any insight would be very much appreciated. Many thanks in advance!
  24. Nearly 5 (?) years after its first announcement the DACO 1/48th injected F-104 super update/detailing set (http://ultra.glo.be/daco/KDCC4802.html) dedicated to the Hasegawa's Starfighter kit seems in progress. The first test shots are now in the hands of Mister DACO, Danny Coremans. No release date yet but it will be probably available at Telford's SMW 2013. Sources: http://s362974870.onlinehome.us/forums/air/index.php?showtopic=259842 http://s362974870.onlinehome.us/forums/air/index.php?showtopic=259844 V.P.
  25. A new 'work in progress', this is the ancient Revell 1/32nd Lockheed F-104G Starfighter. This kit has been around since the 80's I am sure and gets reissued every now and then, usually with a bright and interesting colour scheme. It is an easy simple build, is cheap (this cost me a total of £6.90 on eBay) and best of all has raised panel lines I started this build about 18 months ago, it was going to be in Canadian markings but I lost interest and moved on to yet another Phantom so it has languished in a box since then. I am taking a break from an HB F-111A so this is a nice one to pick up and play with again. I want to return to using metal foil to try to continue to learn from the Revell 1/48th F-89C Scorpion which I completed a couple of years ago. This is the state of the build as of last weekend: The idea - at this stage - is that she will be completed as this: She is F-104G 63-13269 which 'starred' in the film 'The Right Stuff'. I have wanted to build this for years and she will be a good opportunity to try out applying metal foil to achieve a polished metal finish as well as differently shaded panels. These are the raw materials: Both sheets are ordinary confectionary foil, most likely chocolate bars from Lidl. The sheet on the left has been pressed and cleaned with white spirit, the sheet on the right has been likewise cleaned then polished with Brasso, then cleaned with white spirit, this has given it a slightly darker and more blue appearance. Some of the tools and discards of the foiling process: The foil is applied with Micro Metal Foil Adhesive. I use cheap disposable knives from B&Q to cut the foil because they go blunt very quickly! This is where I started, I had already constructed the fuselage and sanded the joins then applied Halfords grey primer which seems to help give the foil better contact. You cannot expect to apply foil to every surface because it will cope with some curves but if over-applied it will wrinkle which will spoil the smooth metal effect. I therefore airbrushed some areas with Humbrol Metalcote 27002 'Polished Aluminium, for example the tail fin leading edges, the ventral strake and the grilles around the undercarriage doors, also the inside of the doors. I have also applied Humbrol 85 Satin Black to the air intakes and the nose area. The dielectric panel behind the cockpit is yellow mixed with a drop of olive green. And then start applying foil! I started with the least visible panels underneath, if I make mistakes I want them to be here: Fortunately the technique quickly comes back to me and I develop the confidence to start foiling the more visible panels on the upper fuselage. The result to far is not perfect but the different metal hues are clearly visible. This is achieved by cutting panels from the two foil sheets, also placing some panels at right angles which also gives a slightly different effect. I wanted the airbrake to stand out so I used a piece of kitchen foil for this area. Kitchen foil is thicker and a slightly different hue so I hope this has the desired effect. You are looking at an afternoon's work here: I am encouraged so far... Going to keep at it. One good thing about the Revell kit is that it does have the 'short' tail fin for the F-104C so I can keep my options open. Also, if it is not good enough for my preferred option I can make her into an early silver Luftwaffe F-104G. Will post more when I get to the air intakes. Michael
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