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So i have been wanting to build a T-62M, but since the only aftermarket kit is out of production, I have settled with getting the T-62 BDD from trumpeter and found some anti-radiation lining photo-etch fasteners. I am unsure how I should approach it, I was thinking that spreading and flattening milllitput on a flat surface first and then putting it on the model to cut it into the correct shape, and punch some correct diameter imprints for the fasteners would work, but I am not 100% sure this is the best way, or if there is a better epoxy to use than standard milliput. here it you can see what it looks like, it should also have a subtle mesh like texture

This was my first large scratch build and it shows, but at least I learnt a lot from it. The body is made from square section drainpipe, the engine nozzles are square-to-round adapters. It has a wooden 'spine' onto which everything was glued and screwed. The details are greeblies from the spares bucket. Here is the before shot: Here she is on the bench: And here she is in action:

One fine evening I opened a box with all sorts of "garbage" from different models of T-34. And I had a somewhat crazy and interesting idea. Make a "Frankenstein's monster" out of this " garbage" lower part of the case-Maquette/MSD The top of the case - old Zvezda Front and rear armor plates, Dragon turret. Balance beam - Dragon. Support Rollers-Maquette/MSD Hub caps - old Zvezda Host and Sloth-Dragon Miniarm Hooks Trunks - Zedval Cable-made by yourself Changed all bolts, used the remnants of the PE from dragon. Box- Maquette/MSD Trucks- Maquette/MSD Identification signs and inscriptions - a homemade paint mask And here we are) The prototype is a T-34 with the inscription "Lazo" from the 145th separate tank Brigade. The car is either an early release of the STZ or a repair one. Coloring - Akan 4BO Oil-Mig and Co. Enjoy your viewing, thank you for your attention.

Hello dio builders, ****Please Scroll Down Page To See Images ***** Cheers Nick Edit - well, this is weird - I can see all the pics on my laptop, but not on the phone? Hope you guys can actually see these - please let me know if they only show up on my screen - I'm using a new photo hosting site - thanks Nick EDIT - ok tried a repost of the images - Nick

Hi model builders, Here we are on another Covid Sunday, which where I live means we sit at home and watch time march by. Today is Sunday, so I watched the 49ers play and win...next choice...laundry, a socially distanced walk, watch more tv, or post some photos of a project I finished around the first of the year, and, the latter wins. This build is based on the Hoonigan Truck, which features an aluminum replica of a 1977 Ford Ranger and a twin turbo engine on a tube chassis. The build starts with an F150 body and the rest is scratch work and parts from the junk box. First up a couple of WIP images, to show you what's going on: That rear end was tricky - it has a beefed up Ford 9" diff, that's offset from the centerline of the truck, as it's all wheel drive. Ultimately the rear module is tied in with the rollbar. Independent suspension all around. You can see, the engine is a full on junkbox special! The turbos...ugh - some resin, styrene, and so on. In real life, the intake end is very large in diameter, so I found some nice intakes (resin) then wrapped them in styrene to create the large outer housing. As you can imagine lots of guesswork from pics! And on to how it turned out: The intercooler is in front, while the radiator is in the bed - used model rr parts for the electric fans. And there you have it - The paint scheme is a variation on the original, which has Monster Energy decals etc - I liked it a bit cleaner. The paints are Vallejo with Alclad Aqua Gloss clear coat. Lots of bending, carving, twisting, and flexing of styrene along the way! This was a fun build - Cheers and stay well - Nick

So, this is my first time delving into the dark art of WHIF, figred that I might as well cmbine it with some scratchbuilding practice. In 1946, the british air ministry decided that it's typhoon ground attack pilots were suffering too heavy of casualties. They isued a requirement for a plane... that didn't need a pilot, in other words, the world's first drone. the requirement also specified that the design should be jet powered, to increase speed. The engines to be used were the simplest type of jet-- fuelwas injected, then ignitedwithin a tube, doing away with the complicated electrical systems of aircraft such as the gloster meteor. Supermarine responded with a design considered promising, the Hornet, but because of the need for them to produce the Spitfire, production was given to other manufacturers. The drone mounted a masssive forward firing cannon for tank/train busting and had a rearwards facing machine gun for protection aganst german fighters . Initially designed with a conventional undercarriage, the aircraft was converted to a 3 skid design after engineers examined a captured exmple of the highly succesful Me-163 rocket interceptor. SInce the engineers did not have acces to the wheeled takeoff trolley of this aircraft, they assumed that it took off using the skid and designed their aircraft similarly. All of the skids were made to be shock absorbing in order to protect the complex guidace systems, but only the middel skid was retractable. Shown is the third, and final prototype, which was identical to the Mark 1, which entered service after the end of the war in 1948, in all but markings. The type continued to serve in the ground attack role with the RAF well into the 1960s, and continued service in some air forces into the 1980s. The pictures: The main body was made of carved balsa, everything was blende together sing elmer wood filling putty, the the whole thing was giver several coats of my home-made Mr. Surfacer, made with standard wall painting primer, elmer wood filling putty and water. After some sanding down, I marked out th camouflage, which was adapted from the guide in the airfix 1:72 Typhoon, then painted it using kiddy acrylic paints, then sanding lightly to remove the worsrt of the brush marks. All decals were from the spares box, most coming from the Airfix Typhoon, while the Xs and the tail codes came from the Airfix Bf109E and Revell P-61A. Comments and questons are most appreciated. K