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  1. Personally I’m blaming @Bertie McBoatface for this what with all the talk of there not being as many ships as expected I felt so guilty that I decided to go build one myself. And seeing as how this will be my first Scratchbuilt boat it may all go horribly wrong… Now do bear in mind that this would also be eligible for the ‘not my comfort zone’ GB the ‘go large or go home’ GB as well as the salty sea dog but hopefully not the entropy GB Step 1 start with a scale plan. Step 2 using Amadine drawing software scale it to 1/72 print it off cut it out and stick it to a suitable piece of lumber. step 3 cut out the profiles with my scroll saw. The observant among you may motive that it’s now two bits of wood. My scroll saw can only cut 50mm wide wood so I had to cut the block in two then saw each half then glue them back together. I’ve roughly sanded the blocks with my detail sander. I’ll let it dry overnight then continue sanding/ carving to the correct profile. Still have to figure out what way I’ll fabricate the hull. I may well end up planking over the form either with balsa or plastic sheet.
  2. So for my second build I’m going to build an Erhardt from the papercraft model on Landships 2 but in 1/35 rather than 1/43 and from plastic not paper. The papercraft model. Next step to scale it up by 12%.
  3. There appears to be a lot of interest at the moment in 1/200 scratchbuilt (or using 1/200 paper kits as a basis for scratchbuilding) vessels that are unlikely to be kitted, so I thought I would join in. Wandering into uncharted WIP territory here with a bit of lockdown madness, HMS Victorious really needs no introduction, but what the hell, she was the third of the Illustrious class fleet carriers, launched in 1939 and commissioned in 1941, she served everywhere, starting her wartime career chasing the Bismark, and ending it sweeping bits of kamikaze off her flightdeck, even becoming an unofficial member of the USN for a limited period as the USS Robin. Post war she was heavily modified, (a bit of an understatement there), and was recommissioned in1958 and finally scrapped in 1969. My father served on her during her 1961 “world cruise” as an Observer with 825 Squadron flying Whirlwinds (“never sure whether one was going to fly back, or swim back”), after which I was Christened in the ships bell on her return to Portsmouth, and so having been brought up with albums full of photographs of sampans and blackened Sea Vixens I have always had a fascination for the ship. I am sure I am not alone in playing with the venerable Airfix offering in the bath (not recently I must add) and although I have a couple in the stash I must confess the last time I built one I must have been about 12 and these days I find 1/600 a little small. I had a lot of fun with the ghastly Heller offering which required a great deal of scratch building, (and thank god for Peter Hall and his photoetch) to make something that resembled the ship at the start of her illustrious career (did you see what I did there !), but there was always a project in the back of my mind to model her in her 1961 guise in 1/350 my preferred scale these days. That was the plan anyway, until I spotted a paper kit of the mighty Vic in 1/200 by OREL, couldn’t resist the temptation, and an even more cunning plan started to take shape. Along with the kit I bought the associated photo etch and the laser cut frames, I assume that the anatomy of the ship book was used to develop the kit because it appears to be spot on to the drawings in it. The kit represents the configuration later than I want, in 1961 she still carried the original six 3 inch gun mountings, two of which were later replaced by storage for Buccaneer drop tanks, had lost the six barrelled Oerlikon mounting on the starboard side, and had not grown the extension outboard of the island to starboard,, though funnily enough the experimental bridle catcher (which was only carried through 1961) incorrectly features in the kit. Anyway the cunning plan did not feature paper bits anyway though I intended to use the laser cut structure as a basis, the cunning bit involved reinforcing the card framework by soaking it in superglue. Fast forward to now, it worked, the infused card has the consistency of thin plywood and is sandable, carvable and stable, the model will be waterline in a sea base so I have omitted the lowest level of the hull (makes life easier) to add additional stiffness I fabricated the hanger with fibre board. I scaled the AotS general arrangement drawings to 1/200 and from that cut the flight deck from 3mm styrene, the aft lift radii being squeezed in filler with a template, and the depression for the chock/roller aircraft allignment gear cut out and back filled with 2mm material. I set the flight deck up and levelled it with styrene shims and fixed it temporarily with two screws, the cable deck and quarterdeck will need to be finished before fixing it all permanently, I’m using the flightdeck as my datum, everything is measured off it in X,Y and Z planes, it seems to be working so far ! The fabrication of the docking and boat bays (she still had the port side one in 61) is my current task, though it is all very much “Blacksmithery” at the moment I'm looking forward to some proper modelmaking. Just to give an idea of the size of this beast, this is my other work in progress at the moment, the 1/350 Trumpy Dreadnought, somewhat dwarfed. This is where we are at the moment, as you can imagine this is not going to be a quick build, but all comments (even rude ones) and advice welcome ! Kindest regards to all from the Spanish viral apocalypse David
  4. Hello gents, Off on a new project. It has a few build requirements: It will try and stick with the spirit of the concept as it moves along (this will make more sense as you keep reading); It will rely to the greatest extent possible on kits from the stash! No new kits! maybe new materials, glue and paint; and, well guys, it might be a bit odd when it's done. So, on we go. The following few character images show the basic concept of this project - in three graphic chapters: ahhh, "Misty watercolor memories.....Of the way we were" (B Streisand) uhhh???? what the heck??? "Because something is happening, But ya' don't know what it is, Do you, Mister Jones?".....(B. Dylan) btw groovy graphic assembled in...PowerPoint! used their Design Ideas tool!) (Note the center image - looks like a tracked lowboy with a shelter atop) And, our story - a guy reminiscing on being sent out to the south station - for some time, and what it was like out there. About this graphic....yeah - I tried... it's made with PowerPoint and Photoscape X - not exactly Photoshop! This will require a leap of faith by all involved - including me! I saw a project in the Sci Fi section where someone is building a pretty cool Ian McQue concept air ship. I really like McQue's work, and you can see some of it above. I'm mostly a ground ship kind of guy though, so I did several searches of his work and found a few ground based vessels that move on tracks, and some peculiar buildings. So, for this project we have an OshKosh Global HET A1 (the high mobility version of the M1070) and trailer, converted to a halftrack, camped out for a while at south station. At this point, well, I can't and won't guarantee the dio will look "just like" this - but, it is planned to "feel" like it when we're done. I just don't know as of right now where this will go, but, I've already jumped right in, starting with the truck: This is the OshKosh M1070 Heavy Equipment Transporter (HET), an 8x8 truck (Hobby Boss kit). I have gone ahead and begun converting it into the Global HET A1, a 6x6 version (upper pics). There are similarities and many differences between the two - and above you can see the big difference is in the rear axle configuration. I like the look of the Global HET - If I just had some of those fat, high flotation tires!! This required some head scratching to design and build. So, lots of changes - the chassis is shortened in the rear and will be stretched in the front, all the tabs, bolts, rivets cut off and as you can see above, some carefully cut off and reused, and suspension attached. I made operable, and not just adjustable steering. It also needs an all new hood/bonnet, which will be a difficult task - the Global HET has a less angular design than the M1070, which has a variety of odd shapes and compound curves.....perfect. And: As this project is in the realm of sci fi, a half track is simply required!! Hence the reason for making this the 6x6 version - the two drive axles now serve as power for two final drive sprockets (off-set by planetary gear transfer cases), on independent bogeys! I don't want this to look like a simple toy - it needs to at least demonstrate convincing realism. Therefore, into the realm of mechanized agriculture and some homework! It turns out lots of tractors are both four wheel drive (which this would in effect be as there are two drive axles) and use tracks - very interesting stuff - and good and, well, strange looking! I discovered this can be done in two broad ways. On the upper left, you can see a fixed rail track system, which is essentially bolted to the tractor via a pivoting hardbar and final drives. Nice! except, my fancy HET has air ride suspension, and the hardbar set up would prohibit flex, or result in heavy torque twist. Or, look for a way to keep the "wheels/bogeys" independent. So, I set up a system with two independent bogeys, connected via tensioner at each axle - like on the rail of a tracked dozer! as shown in the sketch, and in concept on the two studies above. As this is being built only using parts from the stash, I have a couple of the Oroshi Bradley M3A3 kits - so, I'm using those idlers/roadwheels, final drives and metal tracks. Among the challenges here is using the parts I have in a way that appears to function as sold. As such, the final drives need to be elevated above the rollers, so both can rotate and allow a track to convincingly be drawn over them. This required several visual tests before I settled on an approach: In brief, the bogeys are symmetrical left/right, but asymmetrical front/rear. The bogey "carrier" is .040" styrene. You can see, the road wheels are spaced equidistantly from the axle centerline (me guessing that's a good way to evenly distribute weight), while the final drives are off-set for clearance. The final drives are set up using the Orochi parts as intended, with some cutting. The idlers and road wheels attached via a remarkably tedious process of cutting and assembling telescoping lengths of alu tubing....good fun. And above, dry fit - not exactly an "instant" half track! If you look carefully, you can see a tensioner and shock absorber mounted between the bogeys, which will allow them to rotate independently of one another and up and down with the axle, while the final drives stay in fixed position, attached to the axle. And - that's where we are. Next will be addressing the front body work. I'm not looking forward to this task! Then, onto the HET trailer (which is very big even in 1/35) and what ever sort of "shelter" for it. I have a remnant 1/32 scale box van that has some nice panels, and an ICM ZIL 131 emergency truck bed/shelter, which I plan to bash together into something appropriately mysterious and dieselpunkesque - we'll see! And of course, ground plane, buildings, debris and figures - a long way to go. Thanks for having a look - Cheers Nick
  5. Ok I must be nuts but owing to the simple shapes I reckon I can pull this one off. Some artwork for the decals, need to be scaled, printed and varnished Wish me luck…..
  6. Latest one off the bench. I started this just after xmass as the missus said I was spending too much time modelling and so put me on a three week enforced break, she then ended up helping me make the books for this one! Pleased with doing a lot of scratch build but at the same time will be glad to get back to something with written instructions! If that makes sense? Anyway.... I used a pallet from work to make the box. Then distressed the panels with a blowtorch and then further tantalised with boiled linseed oil, wood stain and cheap ole acrylic paint. The stencilling was actually done with a marker pen as its quicker and less hassle than masking and spray paint. All I say is I'd never make a carpenter but I was going for the shabby chique look! The figure is from SK Miniatures (not that I'm that experienced with figures) was really good to work with, amazingly well crafted. He is turning his back on the scene I like to think he's thinking 'where did it all go wrong'. Few more pictures with the lights on and from different angles: Now a few close ups on some the details: I made the lamp and wired it to a single 12v battery (which incidentally drains within about 5mins, long enough to take a few snaps.) This is shows the rats tail sticking out from between the floor boards, attracted by the smell of the dead body. I made this from Milliput, along with the dead mouse in the rafters, seen below (sorry about the pic, hard to get a good angle on it.) I thought no attic could be complete without spiders webs: I made this from Universal glue (pound shop), which is useless as a glue but great for stretching into spiders webs: I hand made all the books (48 in total), stuck the pages into the covers then having tea stained the paper: I also made the tarp, violin case, rug and luggage I made the rocking horse from styrene (including a bit of hairspary chipping of the paint) with the rifle beside as if a kind of stab at lost innocence (maybe that's a bit too pretentious and really no pro solider would leave his rifle like this but hey ho). I also made the 3 inch stokes mortar and empty mortar boxes, empty mortar cases tubes, the table and broken chair: When I was putting the xmass tree away I noticed in our own attic that we had, at some point, had an invasion of birds nesting (and sh**** everywhere.) so I had to add one here as well complimented with milliput eggs as well: I had to add a couple of priceless Vermeers, as I thought they'd just be kicking about the average Dutch attic in 1944. The frame are again made from Militput and the 'canvas' was rubbed with chalks to give the slight yellowing effect a picture would get from a being in drafty loft. Lastly the umbrella: This is a nod to one of the greatest films of all time 'A bridge too far' and Digby Thatham Warter, who inspired the diorama and (I've attached the wikipedia article about him here, if you get a sec I recommend taking a read as he really was, if all true, quite some character):https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digby_Tatham-Warter He allegedly used the umbrella as a weapon poking it through the slit of an armoured car catching its driver in the eye! The bottles, upturned basin and crates are from mini art . The tea lights at the back don't work so well in the pictures because you obviously don't get that flickering effect but looks a little like fire. The moon light on the back wall (hidden from view) is quite bright so had to be defused with dark tissue paper. I'm happy enough with the result. Hope you like. I'll end with a couple black and white shots: As ever thanks for taking a peek. Paul
  7. These are finished at last. Real life kept getting in the way. As usual! See the WIP for the full build. I got a pair of part started 1/48th Hobbycraft Vampires from the Bay for a decent price. Bits were missing. What to do? Why not turn them into 1/32nd scale orbital fighters in the Star Wars universe? I just made it up as I went along. Both were two seaters. The oneon the right had a broken canopy. I took a page from early Meteors and built it as a Mk 1, with a metal rear to the 'greenhouse'. The paints are Citadel (Warhammer) as I wanted 'Alien' shades rather than bog standard Tamiya. Here the laser pod is underneath. Engines are printed and were very kindly donated by @TheBaron I've added a bit of detail and paint. The Vixen name comes from the source of the engines, they were for his wonderful 1/72nd printed Sea Vixen. Not meant for atmospheric flight you just need an engine & thrusters. Not tail booms. The yellow stripes? Alien flames, for that death or glory look! RH wingtip pod. Half an old missile with added bits. Yes, And a Harrier outrigger. In the Star Wars universe ships can hover indefinitely. But I've fitted a fixed central skid & the outriggers in case of 'wobbles'. Launched from an orbiting space station the skid could be jettisoned and the ship could 'skip' on top of the atmosphere. The Mk 2. Full length canopy. Slightly different markings. I just used odds & sods from decal boxes. The 'flames are intentionally rough, BTW. The green is Citadel Goblin green. The Vampire had a Goblin engine! Just sayin'. The Pilot is ex Phantom. Now from an unnamed race of humanoids, threatened by the evil Empire. The gear is just a push fit, so here's a close up. The skid was two halves from a wingfold, I think. My Citadel paint stock. Bought used from a car boot 4 or 5 years ago, they are still good to go, and odd shades. Another fun scratchbuild and I'm happy with the end results. They're certainly unique! Thanks for looking. Your comments are always welcome. Next? one word. Vanship! ×
  8. Started quite a while ago, sat in the shelf of doom for a while but finally finished.
  9. As I've been promising, this new thread follows on very quickly from the MTB, it is intended as a companion model and will cover the larger BPB boat before the addition of torpedo tubes. I've been working on the drawings while competing the MTB and so here we are ready to start building. For those who are not familiar with the type, this illustration from the Osprey British Motor gunboat publication gives a great idea of what the model should end up looking like I've managed to source about 10 high quality images of this class on-line, here are a couple of the better ones, MGB 75 and MGB 107 I've searched hard but can't find any commercially available model drawing sets, but the Haynes workshop manual featuring MGB81, the historic preserved MGB, is a great source of information and contains two extremely good drawing sheets that scale rather well and provide accurate lines. I've been able to scan, re-align and re-scale these and had them printed as A1 pdf's. They are based on drawings held by the IWM archive and to my delight, a number of the builder's drawings have been scanned and are available to purchase as art prints. Screen grabs of these provide useful back-up information and additional detail which is great. As It seems a shame that commercial model drawings are not available, this time, I really intended to completed a model markers set of plans that others could use. I'll make these available at both 1:48th scale and 1:72nd scale, more on that at the end of the build. The model will be 18 inches long, a nice size to work with. Here are some of the refence material I'll be using, the pdf reproduction of the Haynes drawings included below I'm not sure I should post a copy of the Haynes manual drawings here, but as a teaser, here is one of the IWM art prints you can buy (full size copies of original drawings, would look great framed) So, overall I'm happy there is enough detail for me to build a decent model of these vessels, one of the key criteria for me to start a project. If you are wondering why I've included the Anatomy of the ship Fairmile D book, it actually has the best drawings of the twin Oerlikon power turret which was shared with the dog boats. The Vickers 2prd turret on the bow is identical to that fitted on the SGB so I've already built one of those and have the etching drawings of the mount, the props look the same (as far as I'm concerned) as the MTB, I have a 3d model of Holman projector and the right smoke machine so this should be easy eh... I didn't have a drawing of the twin Oerlikon, but I do now This, together with the 2 pdr and the props are being cast by Shapeways and should be here in a couple of weeks, the guns in brass and the props in bronze, £80 for all 5 pieces inc shipping. So, progress to date, I've re-drawn the times and checked the gunwale, and chine alignments, that Haynes manual drawing is really good.. The whaleback deckhouse was slightly off, but I used the IWM construction drawing to correct it, think I have it right. Here is my outline lines drawing, the starting place for the frame drawing. On interesting point is the outer rudders are angled at @10 degrees to the vertical, that's a little challenge to get right. For this hull, I'm reverting to balsa infill hull construction which is then covered in diagonal planking. The MTB wasn't a great success in my mind as the inner curvature of the lower hull really didn't work well because the planking had no intermediate support. Also, the simple balsa infill I used on the S-boote actually leaves you able to see the frames in some lights which is bad. This combination approach should solve both these issues, it is what I used on the Fairmile B but that all happened before I started posting so I'll cover this in full detail here. This sectional drawing shows how the hull and deck house will be constructed. The deck-house top box stringers are deliberately composite as they curve in 2 directions and a single piece of wood would be too stiff and might actually warp the hull. The chine stringer is horizontal to allow the balsa blocks to be slid in, I'll show all this in the build. The vertical slot in this frame at the top is there to receive the open bridge side piece which connects frame 6 and 7. Frame 6 was moved forward a small amount to form the forward bulkhead of the open bridge, details details.... A new thing I'm trying on this project is the two locking bars, we'll see if they work. As I've said before, bent hulls are not good and using 1.6 mm ply for a keel is easily bent by the gluing process. Before I've dropped the deck-house into an open box structure on the lower hull and this box helps keep everything straight. With this whale-back deckhouse which curves in 3 dimensions, that isn't possible (well anything is possible, its just not easy) so I've drawn two side bars in the plan which will (I hope) slot through all the frames and then slide towards the keel to lock them and the frames in place to make sure it is all straight. Stick with me and you see what I mean From the lines above, each frame then needs splitting out, re-drawn to allow for the outer planking and the slots set in for the longitudinal timbers. The result is the following cutting plan, locking side bars at the bottom This was then turned into cutting artwork (colour changes and re-grouping) for cutting from a 1 ft x 2ft sheet of 1.6 mm ply (I just love mixing units, keeps the brain active...). 2 days later, this arrived in the post from 4D for a very reasonable £55, I'm getting so lazy in my old age... Add some balsa from SLEC and strip-wood from Cornwall Model boats and you have a wooden hull kit in the making The outer planking will be done in pear wood, it will look fantastic and be such a shame to paint it... Build starts tomorrow Cheers Steve
  10. Geoffrey Neville ‘Wicko’ Wikner was a self-taught Australian aircraft builder of Swedish descent. Having designed and successfully flown a series of home-built aircraft in his home country, Wikner had become disillusioned by a lack of support from the Australian aviation authorities, who he felt were effectively thwarting his attempts to build light aircraft in the country. Thus, he decided to follow in the footsteps of his illustrious uncle, Edgar Wikner Percival and re-locate to England. After several years working in various aeronautical jobs, notably for Miles, Wikner entered into partnership with one Jack Foster and furniture manufacturer Lusty & Sons, to design a new plywood lightplane suitable for factory manufacture or home-building. The prototype was built in Lusty’s furniture works in the East End of London and powered by a modified Ford V8 car engine, made its first flight in 1936. Despite it’s racy, bullet-nosed appearance, it was seriously underpowered. A couple of years (and engine changes) later, it finally entered production in a factory at Southampton airport (Eastleigh), with the popular DH Gipsy Major engine as the definitive powerplant, which gave it the desired performance. After only a year of production, which resulted in 11 airframes , WW2 intervened and brought things to a halt. Most of the planes had found ready buyers in flying clubs, with 2 having gone abroad to New Zealand and South Africa. All were readily impressed for military service, where they were mainly used for ferrying ATA pilots around the country. In fact, a military version optimised for this activity was proposed, to be named ‘Warferry’, but came to nothing as the Lend-Lease Fairchild Argus was used instead. Several aircraft survived the war and took part in King’s Cup races in the 1950s. Ultimately, only a single aircraft, G-AJFB has survived to the present day, which underwent a complete restoration to better than new condition in the 2000s : http://www.wicko.com/ Here is my model of this aircraft, in its original 1938 colours. It was donated to the Midland Aeroclub, Pendeford, Wolverhampton, by the Wolverhampton Express and Star newspaper, on the condition that it was used for training 4 local youngsters to fly as part of the Civil Air Guard scheme and was named ‘Wulfrun II’ (after the Anglo-Saxon woman who founded Wolverhampton). Model is 100% scratchbuilt from plastic sheet. With its boxy shape, I thought it would be a straightforward scratchbuilding project, but the complex colour scheme and window arrangement elevated it into a more challenging category.... A few WiPs :
  11. Hello all, This is a bit of an opus of mine! One of a two part diorama in 1/35. Featuring: tiger 1 (tamiya), one 20mm AA gun (Tamiya), 16 figures (various makes- see figure WIP:) Took around 5 months to complete with a lot of research and planning before hand. I used the below two books for some of the research: The Harry Yeide book is a little bit of a dry read but helped with some of the unit specifics etc: I'm really happy with it and enjoyed every bit of it despite being a long complicated build. As mentioned in the tags its all brush painted and mostly scratch built (bar the interior furniture of the house and shop which I got from Verlinden and miniart and the shells are from tamiya.). I'd like to mention that the 246th VGD were in the area of Lucherberg but not the village itself. The figures featured here are for storytelling purposes, the unit was being pulled off the line at the time when the 3rd fallschrimjager, 8th regiment took over the position, these are supposed to be retreating stragglers! If anyone is interested in the battle itself it was part of the American push towards the Roer in operation Queen. The Siegfried line was first breached in sept '44. Then Aachen, the city itself, fell on the 21st of Oct and this is a loosely based diorama set early dec. '44 in the various villages and minor towns before Duren (and then Cologne). To give a general overview. Yes my tiger is very scared and heavily weathered but I wanted to have a little fun with it plus it was from the 301 which inherited its tigers from other units, meaning they would have been fairly cobbled together and would have been around the block a few times. Plus in two months after being depicted here, tiger 201 from the 301 looked like it did in the picture below: This photo came after the tiger 201 put a Pershing 'fireball', out of action in Elsdorf. It then backed up into a building and got stuck. From the shackles and tows being loose it looks as though they may have attempted to retrieve the tank but gave up and the crew abandoned it to the advancing Americans in February of '45. Elsdorf is around 30km from Lucherberg. Might seem a bit odd showing the back of the model but this will play an important role in part 2 and it shows the tiles and dormer which can't be seen from the front. And yes if that panzerschreck was to fire in this confined position then its crew would almost certainly be knocked out by the toxic fumes created by the back blast and also yes the mg42 is in a tactically terrible position. The pics below are a few close up on some of the specific items I scratch built: Such as the head stone and cross: I also scratch built the telegraph pole/signs/light: The doors and handles (plus a little ding a ling bell at the back of the door which you cant actually make out!) I made the dozer shield with the exact spec from the ones used to clear roads. These were normally attached to stug's or panthers adapeted especially for rubble clearence. The idea here being that the dozer sheild and shovels were used to clear the space for the tiger to shelter in, away from the marauding 'Jabos' (allied fighter bombers). I also did the balcony, drain, shop sign, picture frame, fire place and cellar doors (which you would have seen in plenty of the other pics). A couple big ole shots without the tiger: Sorry if the pics are a bit repetitive but I'm not very good at them and theirs loads of angels I try to cover. I could wax lyrical about this one all day but at the risk of boring you all half to death I'd just say if you have any questions please feel free to ask away! Part two might be another five months away as its of similar size, has three afvs, 18 or so figures, a pub, garage and few other its (but a little less scratch built items). Thanks for viewing, Paul
  12. Hello guys, my name is Tomas, I am 24 years old modeller from Czech republic and I would like to share with you one of my newest builds. Also I would like to apologize for my not perfect English, but I will do my best. Our story started in 1957 in Londons Chiswick where the pilot boat Leader made for company Trinity House has been launched. About Leader: Leader is 21,43 m long and 4,58 m wide wooden boat which was build in 1957 as a pilot vessel by John Isaac Thornycroft & Company at Chiswick. It was originally fitted with 2 Rolls Royce engines, but now It is fitted with 2 Leyland diesels. Leader served out of Cowes and later at Southampton. When I decided to build Leader, I also decided to find where is the end of Leader. I was suprised, that Leader is not scraped, so journey could start. After southampton service for Trinity house, Leader was sold and has been on river Itchen until 2011. At this time It was repainted, interior was refited and Leader was sold somewhere.. I spend with this looking for Leader about 3 months (I was in touch with lot of people from Trinity House, british national museum, maritime museum, boathouse 4, but modeller Mr. Taylor from Southampon helped me the most) , but at this moment I am at the end of journey, because I have no chance to find it.. Why Leader?: Leader is built by modellers in Czech republic so often and as RC boat, Its is absolutly amazing and It has no problem with waves or wind. Problem is, that Leader built here, is mostly built based on czech plans drawn in 1985, which are absolutly wrond. Hull of this remade model is angular and has only one motor. There are lot of different details and so on, so I decided to build my Leader based on polish plan from 1959 and comics picture.
  13. Ok, so I said I would be out for a few months due to the move and the need to rebuild my workshop, still that doesn't stop me building in my mind and on the computer. As I cleared the workshop, HMS Jason had to be moved, for the third time now. I made a decision, this would be the last time I move her. I'd always said that I would complete her when I retire. Well, I'm retired now so there are no excuses. So, here is the plan. I've found many pictures I took of the build all those years ago and scanned them so the story so far can be told, it's just 18 years late. Then while I'm sorting out the new workshop and house actually, I'm going to work on fittings on the computer so that when I get back to being hands on, the process will be faster than before. Also, this one will probably be for sale at the end. The house really can't take too many 5 foot models, still that's a decision for next year, on with the story... As the Victorian navy moved away from steam and sail to pure steam the old hybrid gunboats looked very old very fast, lovely though they were. The threat of the new fast coastal torpedo boats needed countering, and so these Torpedo Gunboats were developed. Really they are like mini-light cruisers, not only capable of defending harbours and also colonial duty around the empire. In general, the idea (like many Victorian naval developments) was not a huge success, mainly due to the locomotive boilers that were used. However, Speedy, the only one of the class to be built by Thornycroft's, had more modern naval boilers and was faster and far more reliable The Alarm class was the fourth and last class to be built before the true destroyer type developed, along with turbine propulsion. These were a step change in vessels for this service and made the TGB's redundant. However, they soldiered on through the 1st world war, 2 as submarine depo ships and others converted to minesweeping duties. 4.7inch gun mounted minesweepers!! HMS Jason was laid down in September 1891, launched in May 1892 and lost to a mine in 1917. She was 230 ft long, displaced 810t and carried 2x 4.7 inch QF Elswick guns on a Mark 1 pivot mounting. She also carried 4 3prds and 3 torpedo tubes, one in the bow. As a redundant throwback, she sports a ramming bow, helpful for surfaced submarines... From a distance, the profile could be mistaken for a light cruiser Here she is in black, white and buff livery of the Victorian navy. These are the colours I shall model And again, dressed for a special occasion To give you some idea of what I hope this will turn out like, here is a contemporary builders model of a very similar vessel built in Britain for Brazil in the 1890's I love builder's models.... Why did I abandon the project all those years ago? There were a number of reasons. I started her too soon after completing HMS Medea (RFI thread coming soon). That project had taken 4 years and I dived into HMS Jason immediately afterwards, one year on, I was just a tiny bit exhausted with the whole thing and so stopped modelling and built a car instead... Also, a number of areas were not working out well enough, the bilge keels were rubbish, the deck houses were not crisp enough, my plans for internal lights were too ambitious etc etc. It all built up in my mind and so I shelved it. Now I ready to get back, sort out the problems, and get this beast finished. This is a big serous model, I actually can't wait to get back to it. Looking forward to sharing the journey Steve
  14. Have just started new scratchbuild and thought it'd be good to share the build here. Kits of civilian scale models are pretty thin on the ground - compared to the crop of Spitfires, P51's, 109's etc. One that seems to have been quite overlooked is the Piper PA-24 Comanche. Correct me if I'm wrong - but I've only seen some larger scale flying model kits - and nothing in more conventional (or even unconventional) scales. There's quite a few Cherokee kits (which is more 'family sedan') but the Comanche (a bit of a 'sports car') seems to have missed out? The inspiration for this is that it was one of my fathers favourite aircraft when he was in his early flying years - at the Royal Aero Club of NSW based at Bankstown in Sydney, Australia. Here's a picture of the subject model here - taken circa 1963 on a 'field trip' to Canberra. This is a VH-RSX PA-24-180 - in a rather tasty colour scheme. The other one I am torn with doing is this PA-24-250 VH-SME operated by the Snowy Mountains Hydro-Electric Authority - who had quite a fleet of aircraft to support that big project. This one here - a Greg Banfield photo from Bankstown 1963 courtesy of the Ed Coates collection. Including tip tanks. http://www.edcoatescollection.com/ac1/austmz/VH-SME2.jpg To save making a decision - my current plan is to build TWO models at the same time. One of VH-RSX and one of VH-SME. Twin Comanches? Anyway - onto the model. I've now scratchbuilt quite a few of this style of aircraft and have a fairly standardised technique for dealing with the glasshouse and a full interior. These will be in 1/48 to fit in with my 'collection'. I found a set of plans from Aeromodeller 1961 - which whilst targeted at a flying scale model include some very handy fuse cross-sections and 'look' to be on scale vs compromised by the 'flying scale' requirements. There's also another set of plans in Air Progress - Winter 1962-63 which are rather nice but without the cross sections. There's some subtle differences between the plans - which I'd put down to artistic license. And happy to work with both of these as a basis. First up - here's the 'buck' for vacforming of the fuselage. Basically a skeleton of 1mm styrene built out with the cross sections from the plans (and all a little undersize to allow for the thickness of the vacformed plastic... That looks like the pic below after it is filled and sanded, filled and sanded, filled and sanded with 2-pack car putty (buy it from the automotive supplies stores - tell them you want to fix a dent in your car!). This is not quite ready for vacforming - a little bit of finessing still required to get the shape right, For vacforming, I will mould the underside in white styrene - and the topside in probably PETG (first use of this, wish me luck). The buck will be cut just in front of the windscreen after moulding the underside - this will give me a sharp clean edge to the front canopy, and ditto the top of the engine cowling. [The photo looks as if it's back to front - it's just the plan printed in reverse so I can get both a LH and RH view of the fuse (& yes I know the door is only on one side)]. So with some more putty on the buck and set aside to dry - time to turn attention to the wings. Remember I'm tag-teaming two models. The wing shape has been cut from 1mm styrene for bottom skin and 0.75mm for the top skin. Trailing edges have been sanding down wafer thin on the inside surface (using 180 grit then 400 grit wet and dry sandpaper. very wet). then a bit of marking out of the wing spar location and the wheel wells. Next steps are fabricating the wheel wells (gosh they're a long way aft!). Also finish off the buck to the point I can vacform. Hope you enjoy the build!
  15. Greetings! This is part of a much bigger 1/96 scale Apollo Saturn V and LUT project that is nearing completion after many months of work - more on this later. The Colby Crane sits at the top of the LUT and represented one of the more challenging components of the overall build due to the complicated open girder construction. Scratch built from various styrene, brass, and paper materials with various photographs and diagrams as reference guides. The machinery housing is from the Edu-Craft Diversions paper kit. The mast is hinged and can displayed up or down as desired. Finished with a variety of paints and sealed with flat clear, weathering will be done along with the overall LUT once completed. Many thanks for a having a look. Questions and comments always welcome! Bill
  16. Hi, people. This is my first work that I will post as I make the model, one U-boat Type VII C, in 1/100 scale. The others modelings that I have int he forun are ready, and IO go posting the pictures that I have in computer. This model has been starting now. Its an old dream, and now I realize him! . However my wife call me mad, I go on! In Brazil we say "I will not teach the priest to pray", when we know that the other people knows what is being talked about. (I hope that is clear... ). So I dont explain about the u-boat. Lets go to the modeling. First I print a drawing in the correct scale. The model will be 67 cm lenght. I cut the deck in cardboard - three pieces was glued each other to give strength. ) Later, I make a reinforcement to the deck, with a thick cardboard (in Brazil we call him "parana paper"). The piece is glued in "V" and attached with a thin cardboard, like the picture. The reinforcement is glued under the deck. Others reinforcements was made and glued. You can see that the line deck isnt straight. The bow is higher than the stern. To attache the hull pieces I make lots of cardboard reinforcements. Them will glued in the border of under surface deck. The reinforcements was glued, but the photo is bad. But we have a comparison with my keyboard and mouse. Its so big! Now I make the strutural reinforcement - in portuguese we call him ship caves; I dont know the real name in english. With the figure I hope that you will understand. I build the pieces with foam. The pieces in correct local. In this photo we can see better the cardboard reinforcements. Everuthing ready to start the hull. I never build anything so big. Realy its big! I hope my wife doesnt make me choose between the marriage or the model!
  17. These days I mainly specialise in inter-war aircraft models in 1/72 scale, but within that rather large field my favourite area is the 1926-41 'Golden Age' of U.S. Civil Aviation. This is a largely untapped field for models (and likely to remain so), which neatly combines my twin passions of scratchbuilding and historical research. Lloyd Stearman was one of America's foremost designers of civil biplanes. Having been the Chief Designer of both Swallow and Travel Air, in 1927 he left to start his own company, initially in California, but soon relocated back to Wichita, Kansas, then known as the 'Air Capital', for its concentration of civil aircraft manufacturers and suppliers. The fourth successful design of his own company was the Model 4 Junior Speedmail (an earlier model was the larger 'Speedmail'), which he described as 'the finest airplane I ever designed'. Intended primarily as a mailplane, only around half the 40 constructed actually saw service in that role (with American Airways and Canadian Airways). The rest were bought for corporate use, or by wealthy private owners. Top of the range were the 4E models with 400+hp P&W Wasp power and finest of all were the 3 specials constructed for Standard Oil of California and used by their flying salesmen up and down the west coast, 1930-35. Surprisingly, around a dozen of the Stearman 4s built survive, including 2 of the 3 SOCal planes. Latterly, I've been building most of my models in pairs, which I've found to be a more efficient and fun way of increasing my modest output. So here are my models of a Stearman 4EM mailplane of Canadian Airways (Eastern Lines), Montreal, 1931 and Stearman 4E Special 'Stanavo 4' of Standard Oil of California, San Francisco,1930. Models are 100% scratchbuilt and were completed in 2017. Both together: 4EM Mailplane: 4E Special : WIP Parts spread: Cockpit parts: One of my favourite 1930s biplanes..........
  18. I have modelled on and off for probably the last 40 years, predominantly in 1/72 scale. Aircraft and vehicles mainly. During more recent years modelling has been limited to basic assembly and conversion work and scenery building for table top war-gaming. After a hiatus for a couple of years I have decided to get back into model making purely for the pleasure of the build. I did have a few helicopter kits I was going to tackle but wanted something to really motivate me. In a previous life I spent about 10 years as Radar Plot/Anti submarine aircraft controller rating in the RNZN, serving on 3 Leander class frigates and the research vessel HMNZS Tui. It has always been an intended 'one day' project to build my old ships. Never one to do things by half I decided to go big or go home and to tackle the first one HMNZS Waikato in 1/72 scale. The Mighty "Y" was not my first posting but I have fond memories of my time on board and decided to start with one of the two gun Leanders first. The other was HMNZS Canterbury. My third Leander was HMNZS Southland (ex HMS Dido) an Ikara Leander. I served on her in the late 80's and will aim the build around this time. When she still carried a whaler before the Rib was fitted. I have been doing what research I can and building a library of photos of both her and when I can't find specifics at least detail references of other Leanders. Stumbled across this picture this morning. I remember this photo being taken, it was for Navy News or something similar and idea was to show the different parts of ship that made up a crew of a Leander. I am not 100% positive (it was 30+ years ago) but if memory serves correctly I am one of the ratings in Dayglo wet weather gear on the focsle
  19. Finally, I've got some time to start the post on my next scratch build, a 1:48th scale Denny SGB, actually S304 Grey Fox, IWM picture below, at 145ft, the model will be ~36 inches long in old money. Warning, I expect this build to take a year or so. This time I really will try to make everything (apart from the split-pin stanchions), but some complex components will be 3d printed, though to my own drawings. I'm also going to have a go at the propellers, printed in wax and then cast, may as well go for it... My aim is to produce full drawings, components and etchings so others could build the same model if they wish. I will document it all here, mistakes and all I have two professional plans, one available on line by G Stone in 1:48th scale and one from model shipwright no 87 (March 1994) But as I do with all major builds, I also contacted the maritime Museum in Greenwich (actually the old brass foundry in Woolwich) who have the archive of all naval vessels since the 18th century. They claim to have an example of every type that served in the navy and they have a number of drawings of SGB's. I chose three drawings of SGB303 (the sister of S304), which include the GA and the shell expansion, a vital piece of the puzzle for plated models. At 36 inches long, the model is too large for my block infill so I'm going to plank it on frames and then plate the outside with aluminium sheet to the shell expansion drawing, rivets included. Shell expansions show stuff other drawings omit, like the water intake and outlet for instance. A section of the drawing is shown below and on it you can see the inlet is rectangular and on the centre line, I've not seen that detail before. This section also shows the layout of the outlet with the doubler plate etc. In other parts of the drawing is it clear that the portholes on port and starboard where not in the same place, again, where else could you find that sort of detail? From a scan of the lines (actually from the model shipwright drawing which looks a higher quality piece of work) I prepared a cutting drawing of the keel and frames. The frames have been set back by 2mm to allow for the planking. The keel is 5mm ply but the stem and the docking keel will be made of brass, inset in the ply as the former is sharp and the latter much thinner than the ply (poor quality copy below I started yesterday by cutting out the keel and setting in the brass, seen below on a temporary building board to keep everything straight. Keeping hulls straight is a real challenge as the planking can frames can easily end up twisted (I know this from experience) so I make a lot of fuss at this stage, sometimes it pays off... The hull will have a large slot in the deck for the deck-house. I'm not going to build a working model, but this could easily be done and then the slot would allow access to the motors battery etc. For me is helps to keep the deck house separate until very late in the build, then is will just slot in The frames were printed and mounted to 3 mm ply for cutting out Much later today... More timber to keep things straight. I've had to slot the build board as the boat does not have an exposed keel apart from the small docking keel at the back. I'll be planking it upside down, more detail later. The platform at the back holds the alignment holes for the rudders, you can also see the holes for the prop shafts (5" dia) After much fettling, I glued it up, tape is holding everything straight (I have a phobia about straightness....) So, we're off and running, sheer strakes going in tomorrow
  20. Hello everyone… I’ve had a varied model-making year, covering weekend Airfix aircraft builds, a handful of 1/35 and 1/72 armour types, a bit of diorama and figure sculpting work and so on. The projects that I’ve enjoyed the most are the scratchbuilds though – the satisfaction of developing and improving new techniques has been the thing that’s really driven me more than anything. My current Miniart M3 Lee is a marvellous kit and I’ve been loving the detail, but I really feel the need to “scratch that itch” so I’m embarking on another armour scratchbuild. I hope to keep the M3 going at the same time, so my tardy progress on that shouldn’t be too badly affected. This time it’s the Pierce Arrow AA truck. This should be quite similar to the Wolseley armoured car I did a while back… …(in fact, later models of this AA truck were apparently based on the Wolseley truck as opposed to Pierce Arrow) but there are some different challenges this time. Firstly, this vehicle has spoked wheels as opposed to the covered ones of the armoured car, so there’s a fresh skill to tackle straight away. There’s also a fair bit more information that I’ve been able to find on-line. This is a double-edged sword of course; no two photos or drawings are the same, and there’s less excuse to omit interior detail. The fact that it’s partially open-topped comes into play for this as well of course. I (rather hurriedly, in my excitement) ordered some fresh plasticard and tube from ebay. Once it arrived I realised I’d bought 0.5mm glossy white card rather than the nice matt 0.75mm I’ve just discovered I’d used for my last two scratchbuilds, so I had to get another batch of the correct stuff. Here’s the basic ingredients (no the most thrilling of WIP photos I'm afraid): This vehicle isn’t covered by the Landships II card model collection, so I needed to draw up my own plans. Finding a pretty good 4-view colour drawing was a promising start, so this was loaded into CAD and scaled to match the wheelbase dimension I found on Wikipedia. From this, I traced over each panel and then stretched each as necessary to get face-on template views. The truck is pretty basic in construction with no funky angles, so this was easy enough to do. The template parts were then printed onto A4 paper and are now awaiting a can of spray mount before I start drilling for rivets and cutting them all out. This is what I’m aiming for – it looks pretty cool in this picture methinks… Massive gun, which I’m really looking forward to making. Here we go….!
  21. Hi all, New month, new project. This has been rattling around in my head for a while and I think is sort of picking up on the stalled Gundam-wreck-in-desert thing I started a couple of years ago. I'm starting it now because I think it'll be quick, and it gives me some cutting and sticking to do as well as a break from painting and weathering. I got some board game pieces from Kickstarter last year (for Cthulhu Wars) and one of the freebies was an extra copy of most of the miniatures. One of them (the Bhole) looks rather like a sandworm, and I liked the idea of using it as one. It's moulded in some kind of horrible vinyl/resin/restic stuff which is a bit bendy, but the detail is fine. I started by hacking it off the moulded base (with a full-size hacksaw, no less!) and giving it a wash since I'm pretty sure it'll have been covered in mould release gunk at some point: (click for bigger) Modelling: It takes you to strange places. Open wide! I thought of just basing it up on its own, but I reckon a small diorama will be more interesting to photograph and should make it clearer what kind of worm it's supposed to be. So I started fiddling around with some Bandai add-on Gundam parts and some other spares to get the start of a spice harvester: The wheels are thrusters from the MS Marine set, each one needed the propeller cutting off and the four blocks paring off the "tread". I then sanded the blocks smooth and cut new grooves to join up the ends and match the existing grooves. I haven't added hubcaps yet but I suspect something from a tank will do. The left hand wheels are unmodified, the right ones are almost ready to use. I found some sprue which fitted them so I could get an idea of how it'd look: This is also made from some Gundam aqua backpack parts from the MS Marine set. It's not supposed to be a model of the David Lynch harvester, but should have some echoes of that design. The right hand side is the back and should have some storage tanks sticking out. The left is the front, I haven't decided how to do the harvest-ey bit yet, but I like the idea of the control cabin being up above like the Lynch model. The round holes are going to be hatches, with a little platform under/around them. It would be better if there was only one on each side so they might end up changing, not sure yet. Since I took these I've made up most of the chassis, with poseable leading/trailing suspension arms. But the camera battery ran out Will put it together for a mockup tomorrow. Cheers, Will
  22. I've been working on this one for a year or so and I'm starting to see the light at the end of tunnel on this essentially scratch build. The original kit superstructure wasn't terrible but had some clunky details (like gun houses, range finders, AA suite, funnels) and poorly represented areas ( around the bridge and forward funnel) that I wanted to change to be a little more prototypical of the actual ship, some thinking later and it was time to start from a blank slate of .5mm evergreen. I apologize about the very grainy first few photos those were taken on a very old phone. After the decision to replace the super structure came the acquisition of several different reference books and asking the museum itself for pictures of hard to see or under represented areas. Everything was build up out of .5mm styrene sheet and with careful down scaling of the drawings I started to have a superstructure. Here I have placed the basic superstructure onto the hull, still fairly spartan but it was thrilling to have it look like a battleship on the slip way To fill in the giant hole in the front where the armored citadel should be I carved the forward fire control tower and citadel from balsa as I didn't feel brave enough to use plastic. Splinter shield and platforms The very stern of the kit was rather blunt and I will be the first to admit that it was user error that blunted it, but, I fixed it. I had the old set of 3d printed gun houses in fine resin, these would be replaced by a latter dark grey set from Model Monkey The main battery barbettes were made by laminating plastic and putting it inside the lid of a TET brush which had a roughly similar diameter to what I needed. This was my first go at the 5inch 38 turret ring, I figured I could sand them down to shape, that was not a terribly good idea as it just ripped off the deck, there were just replaced with disks that are the proper size, 3D print funnels were sourced from Model Monkey. Probably the hardest parts to build and make were the bases for the amidships gun director towers, there were very few photos of this area I could find and resorted to communicating directly with the museum to get good references. Finally starting to look like a battleship, most of her AA that was added at a later date has yet to be manufactured. The break water had to bend in about 6 different ways, but I got there eventually. More Splinter shielding. The first set of 40mm gun tubs on either side of the superstructure were too large and were subsequently removed and remade. Bases for the catapults were put in place at this time. Tom's Model Works photo etch really enhanced the look of the fantail with the cats and aircraft crane. Boat handling cranes and flag bags, the cranes now have their booms. I just need to document it. This is as far as I have gotten, I'm at a point where I will need to start turning masts from brass and get the really fiddly bit made up and installed before paint work.
  23. Following on from my Build Thread here is the model on its shiny oak base. The vessel modelled is S-46, one of only 12 s-boats fitted with the 40mm Bofors (according to table 13 in Fock). The model is fully scratch built from plans obtained from Paul Stamm Modellbau in Saarbrücken, supplemented with other drawings from various publications and some excellent unpublished photographs provided by @Arjan for which I am very grateful The hull is solid wood, built up using balsa infills between ply frames, the superstructures are largely copper, supplemented with etch brass made by 4D to my drawings. Many of the other components are 3D resin printed also to my own drawings. It is painted using Vallejo paints from their Kriegsmarine set and weathered to look like its having a hard war. The following extract is from S-boot net describing how the boat was lost On 10.09.1943 the Red Army landed in the city of Novorossijsk. Six days later the town had to be evacuated. On 11.09.1943 Soviet ground attack aircraft attacked the boats of the 1. SFltl returning home. Not impressed by the defensive fire they pushed down to 10 m height and fired with onboard guns. On "S 46" all engines fell out, the torpedo in the port tube exploded and tore the forecastle off until the bridge. In spite of the ongoing attacks "S 49" went alongside and took over the partly severely wounded crew and two killed in action. The boat was then sunk with a torpedo. She is modelled as she was in 1942 serving with the 2nd flotilla based in the pens at Ijmuiden, as per the picture below. She is equipped for fast minelaying She is mounted on turned brass pillars on French polished solid oak. The name plate is from engraving studios, £12.50, good value and fast turnaround. The oak case is not ready yet, a couple of weeks away hopefully The papier mache canvas sides worked well this time. They sit slightly concave between the stanchions and have a nice level of weathering. The waterline is my own mix oily green weathering, very dilute Vallejo paint, stippled on and wiped off a number of times, resulting in a dark weathered line with a slight green hint The ensign is hand painted and soaked in weak PVA before drying in shape, the transfer was printed on my laser printer on transparent waterslide decal paper, the decks are canvas covered as per real practice View of the rear, note the slop bucket. I read somewhere that the crew had no head, they used a bucket and chucked it over the stern, had to include that detail. The mines are UMC mines, 3D printed with added wire detailing, the Bokors is made from 40 odd brass turned, etched and shaped pieces Midships and bridge detail, the lookout is there to show the help people understand the scale View from the air Comparison post coming later with my SGB Cheers and thanks for the support during the build Steve
  24. Hi folks, it's been a bit of a weird summer, so I hope you are all keeping well. Here is a beech and mahogany Bf109 G-6 in 1/48 scale. Took me quite a while to do this one, I started full of enthusiasm then quickly lost my way as I got the underside of the nose wrong. It languished on the table in a pile of sawdust and despair for a few months while I gathered the momentum to finish it. For a plane that looks like it was designed only with straight edges it was surprisingly hard to get it to look correct; the machine gun blisters were also a right pain to get symmetrical. Anyway, I'm glad I persevered as I think it came out OK in the end. Thanks for viewing, hope you like it Nick
  25. This was one of my Christmas presents and it’s a treasure trove of odd WWI designs including scale plans. I wanted it for details of the Sablatnig planes but there are several others that I intend to build starting with the Oertz. Having just finished one Quad, I thought why not do another. So this is my intended victim the Oertz W6 aka the flying schooner. I know the GB doesn’t start till the 20th but I thought I’d crack ahead as I have a lot to do and I’ll make sure I don’t break the 25% rule. First off make the hull. Plans copied 20 times and former transferred to plastic and cut out. The next step is to Mitch them and assemble them.
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