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  1. From the ceiling in a room filled with rotary engines and airplane models at the Landskrona town museum hangs a small biplane of 1919 vintage. The room displays a small exhibition dedicated to Enoch Thulin and his Thulin works (AETA) - a short-lived aviation company which went bust after Great war surplus flooded the marked and the demand fell. Despite its relatively short lifespan, Thulin laid the foundation of Swedish aviation industry, produced a dozen or so types, some license-built, some own designs. The preserved plane in the ceiling is the Thulin NA, the last of the lot. Only one prototype was built. First flight in April 1919, made a respectable 215 km/h powdered by its 11-cylinder Thulin G rotary. A bare month later, Thulin crashed fatally during a practice flight with an older design. With the market saturated and Thulin dead, the company was gone within a year. The NA ended up in the Landskrona museum as one of a few preserved Thulin aircraft. A photo here: https://digitaltmuseum.se/021018827355/flygavdelningen-pa-landskrona-museum-i-taket-flygplan-modell-thulin-na The museum measured and produced drafts of the plane, now available at the public Swedish digital repository. So, courtesy of Mr Göran Lundin and the Landskrona museum, I printed these drawings to produce the model from: After once having built a significant part of a model only to discover the drawings were scaled wrong, I now measure all drawings after printing and mark them with the actual scale as extra verification… The model will be built from plasticard and the usual scrap metal and, if I’m lucky, parts from the spares box.
  2. Hiya Here are some snaps of my latest wood fiddling, a 1/48 Supermarine S.6b. This one took a bit of doing, the fuselage took three goes and the wings four. Which is odd, as its not that complicated a shape. Anyway, I reckon about about 40 hours of work to produce this: Thanks for watching
  3. Hi, This is one hell of a project, vehicle is far more complicated than I estimated, I aimed to make crew compartment, working suspension and as many moving parts as possible but I wasn't prepared how complicated this was. Materials I'm using are HIPS and prespan parer(brown color), tracks and jerrycans are casted from resin. All photos are in this gallery: https://imgur.com/a/Ab9TBZc Enjoy! It started in 2018 with collecting data and preparations, 8 months of procrastination later first hull was completed. More than year later, in September 2020 I realized that all available plans and trumpeter model that I had for reference are incorrect. There are two issues: one present upper frontal plate as flat, where in reality front of it is on the same level as engine doors. Second issue is with overall hull proportions, what is funny only War Thunder's model is correct. I decided to make it again, cheap price for Second hull was made and crew compartment fit correctly. Most significant photos from the journey: Working suspension, first and last arms are connected by rod inside of hull, middle ones are moving freely, it is important feature of strv Two years later and I'm still not ready for paint, there is a lot of important details that has to be attached, casted tracks need to be cleaned, a lot of screws is missing.
  4. Here is my latest and probably my most detailed 1/72 model to date. I used the "old" but still very good kit by Academy released in 2007. Good fit, decent detail and great decals printed by Cartograf. To show more movement and detail I've dropped the front slats, ailerons and flaps and I've added the nice and crisp Aires cockpit resin set and Black Dog's box which includes the electronic bays, canon, radar, spine and engine. The Black Dog set is good but is not at the same fine level as the Aries one, and in fact some of the pieces had pretty bad fit, so I ended up replacing them with some scratch build ones like the partition wall in the engine bay or the hatches for the avionics. All weathering was done using oil paints. F/A-18A+ US Marine Corps VMFA-232 "Red Devils", USS Nimitz, Persian Gulf 2007 Thanks for looking!
  5. Fokker De Spin 1/32 scratch + 3D print I've decided quite a while ago to build one of the most interesting pioneer aircraft (IMHO) - the Spider. It consists of rigging, rigging and even more rigging so it sounds like fun. I've started with the "fuselage". At the beginning I had designed the 3D parts like skids and the frame but after I printed them it turned out they are just too fragile, so the brass was used instead. The radiators and the seat are 3D printed. This is what I've managed to do. The spoke wheels have been made using the 3D-printed rim and wheels with wire spokes and the hub made of brass. They look slightly crude, especially when compared to the Steven Robson's spokes which are stellar but still I'm quite happy that I've learnt something new. I've designed the Argus engine and other bits like tail fin and the petrol tank in Blender and they were printed by my mate Przemek Żurek.
  6. It took me 2 years, give or take 4 days, with many interruptions along the way, to assemble this very difficult Heller kit. Everyone here and elsewhere who assembled it has experienced mishaps, disappointments, and probably some anger too, and has solved or tried to solve, each in his own way, the major problems of body parts adjustment, especially the bonnet. 2 kits were needed to make one, because of broken or damaged parts during assembly, as usual. This kit includes 160 parts, I replaced some of them, and added probably as many, both scratchbuilt from various metals, plastics, fabrics, UV resin, and modelled with Fusion 360 and 3D printed with an Elegoo Mars Pro. The windows were shown open, the bonnet was articulated in 4 parts with 3 functional hinges, the bonnet retainers when open, as well as the bonnet latches to close it were added, and the engine compartment was highly detailed. The spoked wheels themselves are 3D printed. I tried to take the utmost care in making the smallest exterior details, the ones that make the model look bad when they are roughly made or not added, but that bring the model to life when they are right (I'm thinking in particular of the front and rear lights, the side indicators, the bonnet clips, the exhaust line that has been redone in aluminium tube). I was greatly helped by the abundance of documentation that can be found on the Internet, sometimes by searching a bit for precise details... and even more by the appreciations, advices and encouragements of all my followers. May they be warmly thanked here. And now, a flurry of photos, some outside in day light and others in my spray booth with additional lights: You can see more following my thread in WIP section:
  7. (This is the Bovington M4A1 Grizzly before it was restored and used as a gate guard I think ) The Canadian Sherman M4A1 Grizzly was simply a Canadian built version of the Sherman M4A1 and is almost identical to its American counterpart except for a few small(ish) details/changes that tend to give the Canadian Grizzly a very distinctive look, these changes mostly involve the Canadian Dry Pin tracks (CDP) and the big rib suspension bogies, which could be considered to be Sexton bogies really I think as they were mostly used on the Sexton SPG, and it should be noted that not all Canadian Grizzlies were fitted with these big rib bogie units, the CDP track is very distinctive because the contact face tends to resemble German Panzer III/IV track, this combined with the solid and very chunky looking front drive sprocket is what tends to make a Canadian built M4A1 Grizzly stand out, and it has to said that most, if not all surviving Sherman M4A1's that are still in working order and being used for shows and events are in fact Canadian built Grizzlies, with the tracks and drive sprockets being replaced with the more normal US track/sprockets to try and disguise it as a US built M4A1, but there are always other little detail changes that tend to give the game away, such as the Grizzly groove on the rear engine deck area, turret bin mounting lugs, and the big rib bogies if these were fitted. But anyway, This build log is just a bit of lockdown fun and shouldn't be taken too seriously, and it should be noted that this project/build was first started many many years ago, and has been put to rest on the shelf of doom many times mostly due to getting bored and fed up with working on it, and the chances of me ever getting this finished are pretty low to be perfectly honest, I tend to do a little bit of work, and then lose interest for a while, but it might be fun (who knows) to have a little play with some white plastic card again for a while, and feel free to post comments, offer advice, point out mistakes, that kinda thing, It's just a bit of fun with plastic card The Lower Hull As far as I'm aware all of the Canadian M4A1 Grizzlies had welded hulls, Tasca provides a riveted hull in the kit and it can easily be converted to a welded hull, the Tasca instructions included give clear advice on what needs to be done, which is mostly just removing all the rivets to be honest, something that's time consuming but not exactly difficult, but me being me, I decided to do things the hard way, and going against my better judgement and all model making related common sense decided to scratch build the lower hull, as you do... Pictures above, It's mostly just a copy of the standard Tasca hull really, but with a much thicker floor plate to give the whole thing some strength, the engine bulkhead wall is there also just to give the whole thing added strength, it's not really needed to be honest, though it does help when test fitting the lower hull to the upper hull as it kinda provides a handy bump stop which lets me know when things are in the right place, the tubes and stuff are also just to strengthen things up a little. My photography skills are not as good as my scratching skills that's for sure, picture above is the basic scratched hull, glued together with ca after first being 'tacked' with little spots of poly cement, Evergreen plastic sheet/card is very soft so it's best to do most of the major glue work with ca in my opinion, poly cement can cause havoc sometimes, the bolts that secure the FDA to the sides of the hull have been added already using Master club resin bolts. And pictures above are simply test fitting the new lower hull into the Tasca upper hull, the curves on the sponson edges make getting a good fit a bit of a pain but nothing to bad, the main problem is that the sponsons are fairly weak and are put under a lot of stress when test fitting, so care is needed otherwise joints will start to creak and something will break off, more on this later, as things did start to creak and I had to strengthen the sponson joints, I have to admit that at the time I was kinda shocked at how well it fitted the upper hull, but it would of been much faster to just remove the rivets from the Tasca hull, more fun this way though... The Tasca Hull Pictures below, this is the standard Tasca/Asuka hull as supplied in the kit, basically you just need to remove a huge number of rivet heads from the hull bottom and both of the side plates, as shown with the arrows in the pictures below, and If you are a stickler for detail then I think the two cross braces will also need to be reworked as they are slightly different on a welded hull, but its nothing too difficult, and the bottom of the hull doesn't really matter anyway as it's not seen, It's important to leave the line of bolt heads that can be seen on the front edge of the side plates though, as these represent the bolts that mount the FDA to the hull. I think (but not sure) that the two cross braces that are marked with arrows in the picture above need to be reworked, they need to be more triangular in cross section and then spot welded in place with strange looking elongated spot welds, I also read somewhere that the Canadian M4A1 Grizzly had an extra hatch on the bottom? But as already stated elsewhere it's the underneath and will never be seen so it's not really that important unless you are a stickler for detail to be honest. As you can imagine pictures of the underneath of a Canadian M4A1 Grizzly are not exactly common on the internet, so it's fairly hard to check anything, but I think the picture above gives a good idea of what the cross braces should look like on a welded hull, it's like a flat plate that's been pressed to form a triangular shape and then spot welded on instead of being riveted, anyway this is what I copied when I added some detail to my scratched hull, If I remember correctly I had lost the will to live at this point after spending far too much time trying to find some pictures of the underside of the Grizzly hull. Matt
  8. Hello again! It's amazing what you find hiding in a lump of wood: beetles, fungus, or in this case, a 1/48 Hawker Siddeley Hawk T1 It took a bit of finding, but I think it turned out OK. For some reason I find propeller aircraft more satisfying, so this may be the only jet. Not sure. No WIP for this as its fairly tedious watching a piece of wood get turned into sawdust! Anyway, on with the photos Thanks for viewing; comments always welcome.
  9. Modelling time! But first some babbling. A few days after he defended his dissertation «On air resistance on flat surfaces», Dr. Enoch Thulin travelled to France and enrolled at Bleriot’s flying school for more practical aeronautical exploits. He passed his tests in October 1912 and received the tenth license in Sweden. He was one of six children who had lost their father early and performed his studies on stipends. Through his studies he became a member of the Swedish aeronautical society, which housed a number of distinguished members of society bitten by the flying bug. There, he got in contact with several wealthy individuals who became both friends and benefactors, including Tord Ångström, grandson of the physicist, Nobel laurate Gustaf Dalén and Gustav Ericsson, son of the founder of the Ericsson telecom business. With their backing, Thulin would build up one of the first independent aeronautical companies in Sweden. After returning to Sweden, Thulin bought a well-used and worn Bleriot XI. He found a partnership in airplane mechanics/producers Nyrop&Ask, who contributed with the necessary practical knowledge,which became the foundation of his company. They started license-producing Bleriot XI under the name Thulin A and later opened a flight school. This was in 1914. Thulin quickly bought the shares from his partners. Before the war broke Thulin acquired a Morane-Saulnier Type G and license rights to their aircraft: The MS G became the Thulin B and MS L the Thulin D. He reverse-engineered a Le Rhone 80hp engine which went into mass production as the Thulin A (yes, he named the engines the same way as the planes - there was also a car Thulin A). Starting with the Thulin E they started producing their own designs, and found a market in the non-warring nations which otherwise had troubles acquiring both aircraft and engines and the company grew to almost a thousand employees. Both Thulin and his company met an abrupt end. The war ended, filling the market with cheap surplus material, and Thulin himself crashed fatally during a practice flight in May 1919. I have long contemplated builing models of the different Thulin types, and this is a good opportunity. I am intending to build a model of a Thulin D - a license-built Morane Saulnier L, the parasol scout. Thulin tinkered with the design, and it differs somewhat from the original. The dimensions are different, and the engine was a Thulin A, and the front end was rebuilt to a more aerodynamic shape with a smooth fairing flush with the cowling. The wing appears to sit lower as well, giving the Thulin D a more compact look. Very few of this type were built: two were bought and donated to the army by a women’s organisation and three more used by Thulin’s own flying school. The type still made a mark in an unexpected way: one of them ended up as the first aircraft of the Finnish air force, resulting in the Finns adopting the swastika: it was the donor’s personal emblem with which he had emblazoned his plane. Wiki has a free photo: Blabber finished, back to modelling. The centre-piece will be a Smallstuffmodels engine: The rest will be put together from sticks and strings and hopefully the occasional PE left-over.
  10. I have been making threatening noises about this build for some time now - and now it's time for me to make a start. I have been gathering materials and resources over the last few months - still a few critical items to lay my hands on but I think I have enough to make a start. A bit of history: A few years back I was lucky enough to be given the job of redesigning an original Pullman carriage. The owner wanted it to run on the tracks again and after a spate of rail crashes in the UK, rail regulations were tightened considerably. This carriage was originally a wooden bodied carriage so there was no way the authorities were going to let that back on the tracks without some serious modifications. My job was to survey the carriage and come up with a design (in steel) that would allow it back on the tracks. I was lucky in that many original features were still contained in that wooden shell, which we were able to reuse. In short, we brought the carriage up to Edinburgh, removed (or rather, smashed) the wooden structure until we were left with just the chassis. The carriage was then rebuilt (in steel) as close to the original design as we could, while being very sympathetic to the original styling. Since then I have always wanted to build a scale model of the carriage - I still have all the drawings I made during that two year stint, and my model is going to be based on those, at 1/32 scale. I have some idea of how I am going to tackle some of the build, but mainly no idea about most of it. I just know that I am going to have to scratch just about everything. Here's a few shots of the drawings I am working with. First up, the chassis and sideframe structure.... (just an overview) The vestibule ends - which gave us a lot of trouble to design, as structurally, they take the brunt of any collision forces. Incidentally, my name, along with others on the project team, has been stamped on the shear plate in the vestibule ceiling. Lastly, here's what the carriage should end up looking like. This particular carriage was important as it was the last of it's type ever constructed, way back in 1951. Unusually, it has square windows at the kitchen and toilet areas - these were usually oval on Pullmans. I believe this is running today and can be booked for private charters - a bit more expensive than your standard BR ticket though. As always with my builds, this is not going to be a quick one - I reckon on about two years or more to build this one, but I have to make a start somewhere! So, to begin, the chassis plans printed out to 1/32 scale Some bits and bobs ready to begin. As you can see, this is going to end up around 600mm or so in length The first cuts begin.... oops did I mention that I am building the chassis in brass ? I should also mention that I am going to try and stay as true as possible to the original chassis structure/design. What on earth am I doing here??? Too late - I've started..... now I just need to learn how to solder lumps of brass together btw I placed this thread in the vehicles section as it seems to get a lot more traffic than the trains forum. Mods feel free to move it if I have broken any laws
  11. Hello folks, inspired by my friend Francis who recently built an M47 Patton, I decided to present the Croatian Balkan War version called “AZDAJA”, that means “DRAGON”. Look the real tank...these are the only two photos about AZDAJA that I found. Note that the tank does not have the headlights: and have the T80E1 links.... For this project I will use the M47 Patton from Italeri, kit number 6447, and I will added a set of photo-etched and resin parts from DEF Model, code 35024, plus the set of metal tracks T80E1 type from Fruilmodel, code ATL-145, and decals from Star Decals 35-C 1085 M47 Patton Balkan War and Peace. I agree with the others modellers that despite its age, this M47 is one of the best kit produced by Italeri, and it is a great platform for improvements. Well, first I assembled the bottom of the hull, the rolling train, I added some missing bolts (only 68) in the most notorious parts of the supports of the oscillating arms: Then, I added casting detail and foundry numbers in the hull and turret, and I replaced the support for the .50 machine gun and added rear lubrication points too: After that, I scratchbuild seven triangular hooks and added more 4 bolts over the rear plate, plus I made corrections in the gun lock: That's all for now...
  12. I struggle to translate the name of the painting - that calmning little sloshing sound made by small waves lazily splashing against a jetty, oars or the side of a motionless rowboat. The reason it’s here is because it was made by one of favourite painters, Anders Zorn, and has at least some non-flying boats - I found no Zorn with airplanes. He is maybe more famous for painting ladies with less clothes on, but they would probably break some forum rule. He is definitely less famous for the connection with the subject of this thread: In the early days of flight, the Swedish government was reluctant to divert funds towards developing military air capacity. Less so the populace at large: several fundraisers were arranged, and airplanes were bought from various sources and donated to the army or navy, each having their own budding little air force. More wealthy individuals bought a whole plane on their own. One example was the brewer Otto-Emil Neumüller who gifted a locally produced Bleriot XI on the condition that the navy arranged flying lessons for his daughter-in-law’s brother and that his own son promised NOT to do any flying - that Bleriot became the navy’s first airplane. Back to Anders Zorn: he earned well on his art - and married a wealthy merchant’s daughter as well - and in 1914/1915 he donated not one, but two airplanes, one to the navy and one to the army. They were two Farman HF23, license-built by railcar manufacturer Södertelge Workshops, who called the type SW 11 - rather smugly, considering they appear to be identical to the originals. SW would later produce their own designs, but that’s another and rather failed story. I shall be building Flying boat number VI, the Farman Zorn donated to the navy. I have not found any photos confirmed as Zorn’s plane but here is one of her or one of her sisters in full gala uniform: And before anyone says, ”actually, that’s not a flying boa...” I shall save you the embarrasment of being wrong: in typical flawless military logic, the navy operated boats, and therefore their flying machines were flying boats, no matter if they were fitted with floats, skis or wheels. The model will be built from sheet and strip styrene, scrap metal and strings. I’ve already capitulated regarding the rotary engine: it will be be sourced. I’m armed with plenty of photographs, Kronmärkt by the Leifs Hellström and Fredin and Svenska Vingar by flying journalist Torsten Gullberg, who took his flight certificate in 1917 and documented the baby years of aviation from close range - and some drawings google came up with, which seem to fit the Swedish Farmans very well.
  13. Evening guys As I said on my last post in my Delahaye thread, I've begun to work on this fabulous kit from Tamiya. I purchased it I think a year ago, and each morning, the box calls me. several times, I've open it, to see the wonders it offered, and finally I couldn't resist to begin to work on it. Let's see the content of the box: And the Detail up set: As you can see, one is sure to have fun And I've planned, as usual, to enhance more the kit with some scratch, particularly on the engine Stay tuned for the first step...
  14. Hi, An idea to add Saro Lerwick to series of flying boats, float planes and amphibian (all in 1/72 of course) I did in course of last more than 2 years already (Grumman Duck, Widgeon and Goose, Consolidated Coronado, Martin Mariner, Boeing Clipper 314, Nomad and Catalina, Curtiss Seagull, Seahawk and Seamew, Beriev MBR2 bis and M17, KOR 1 and 2, Supermarine Walrus, Sea Otter and Stranraer, Short Sunderland and Empire). As I said one of the latest was Short Empire converted from Airfix Sunderland using @AdrianMF vacu fuselage. So two halves of Airfix Sunderland was lying on my desk for more then half a year. Al that time I was thing what sort of use can I do with this plastic, otherwise finally it will enlarge the plastic spot on Pacific, and I really would to avoid it... So that is how I came to this idea. The problem with Lerwick is that there are no good drawing to it, and in consequence the two existing kits in 1/72: the classic Contrail one and recent Blackbird made the same error of two pilot sitting one next to another instead of sitting in tandem, what resulted in too wide front of canopy. The comparison of models made from Contrail kit, which I have found in Net, with photos of real Lerwick shows this diference clearly. Anyway - I started work four days ago from cutting Sunderland fuselage in more that 15 pieces: To be continued J-W
  15. Time on my hands but not able to get to the bench so I decided to go through a few reference books and amongst others decided that I should add these two to my collection. Both are quite diminutive and should be a much easier build than the Nighthawk, so a semi mojo restorer. The PV 7 aka the Grain kitten. A terrible aeroplane with an unreliable engine. Designed to be small enough to launch from a transport ship with a 30hp 2 cylinder engine and a single Lewis gun( not fitted) The PV8 aka the Eastchurch Kitten a great little aeroplane but still an unreliable engine. The single Lewis was fitted to the prototype. Given a reliable engine it would probably have gone into series production. Last up my 1/48 scale drawings drawn from my copy of warplanes of the First World War vol 3. As you can see both fit in an A4 sheet even in 1/48 they’re tiny. More to follow, should start cutting plastic soon.
  16. Been a long while in the works but finally done. known as the flying tank, nicknamed the flying furniture van. Unique in being the only purpose designed army cooperation plane in WWI and extremely successful in its role. Not modelled after a specific machine but hopefully representative of the type. I might just add that the real thing was noted for the roughness of its metalwork and the photos look more like the side of a barn rathan an aeroplane; I think I’ve captured that
  17. With the Nighthawk and the Kittens well on track and March 7th seeming a long way off I thought I’d add one more oddity to the GB I read somewhere that all of the technology of modern airwar was devised during the first world and this little plane is one of those weird, before it’s time technology experiments from WWI. In the same way as the term tank was used to describe the land battleships to confuse German intelligence. The project was officially known as the RAF Aerial target, however it was actually in tended to be catapult launched and flown by remote control into attacking Zeppelins and then detonated. Which makes it the first military UAV and also the first guided missile.
  18. (with all due apologies to the Bandsaw) Even though I swore (sort of ) that I'd take my WIP down I have to admit I'm a serial starter. Having gone on my semi-annual pilgrimage to one of the few remaining modelshops in Ireland up in Dublin and almost buying a 1/72 kit of the JI, but not, I decided to see if I could find any plans, I got a semi respectable set from the web and scaled it to 1/48 and started construction (Tuesday), however realizing a that I'd gotten my scaling all wrong and was actually building in 1/3 something instead of 1/48 and b) that I had a very old Airfix magazine (1983 afair) with a good set of 1/72 plans ( no mucking about just resize by 50 % and we're up and running) I started again. So far so good, it's mostly flat angular shapes (imagine if you will a bathtub made from plate steel with the crew and engine bolted to a Fokker style tube and fabric back end, although the latter models had steel covering on the whole fuselage) so the fuselage went together pretty easily, just the rear quarter deck and some filling/sanding. The wings will be a major challenge....
  19. After lurking here for some time I have finally taken the plunge and decided to post a WIP. Some caveats... this is not going to be quick or easy and could well remain unfinished - I just don't know what my skills are at this point. I was so unsure about posting a WIP I never took any photo's throughout the build up to this point. I'm sure you guys will still get the idea though. So, starting with some basic materials, and an even more basic tool kit. I managed to amass a bunch of parts similar to those shown here. It sure is a lot of faffing about to post an image here (other forums I am a member of allow you to upload images directly). Can someone confirm if the image above can be seen? So.. plastic buttons, plastic spheres, styrene sheet, beams and some brass rod - whatever could it be?
  20. Here I go again .... another bl**dy locomotive. I promised myself after spending many years (off and on) with my Flying Scotsman that I'd never make that mistake again. The road to Hell is paved with good intentions they say. Growing up as a wee lad in Fife Scotland in the 40's through to 1951 when we emigrated to Canada I was enamoured with steam engines ... the bigger the better. I saw and travelled behind many an A3 and A4 and on my trainspotting days my favourite place to be was on an embankment across from the local station. Frequently engines would arrive, detach from their train and shunt down a siding right below me to take on water from the stand. I've never forgotten the feeling of being there marvelling at these wonderful, machines, feeling the radiant heat, hearing the panting of the air pump and smelling the smoke and steam. Ah, the glory days. Of the LNER big Gresleys most I saw were of the A1 through A3 classes but then one day I saw the most wonderful looking machine imaginable to a young lad. Union of South Africa passed our home where we lived on the 3rd floor and I heard that unique chime whistle as she arrived in Dunfermline fresh from Edinburgh and the Forth Bridge. 60009 always had a special place in my memories no matter how many other A4's I saw and, as an Edinburgh (Haymarket) engine, I saw her often. Fast forward 70 years and here I am, still enthralled with 60009 and watching every YouTube video of her. Only recently I've read that she is about to be retired and that she will be coming home to Fife to reside in a purpose built museum ... I hope I can see her one more time. So, after waxing all poetic about A4's, there's only one logical step I can take and that's to have a go at scratch building one ... Makes sense don't you think? Should be a piece of cake. I've selected a set of A4 drawings off the web, scanned them, enlarged them to my scale*, printed them off then glued them to various cardboard and plastic backings. I'm using my usual Renshape composite material to shape the body. The tender, when I get to it, will mostly be made up from Arborite or Formica sample panels and the motion will be aluminium salvaged from various electronics, computers, cameras and whatever. Off we go .... * It's just going to be an ornament on a shelf. 22" buffer to buffer, same as my Flying Scotsman. Get over it! Here's my rough bandsawed block of Renshape. It's a start. Lots of power tools gets it soon down to a recognizable shape ... and that iconic swoopy footplate is cut out and attached. Body filler applied and sanded out ... Kylchap double exhaust roughed out, shaped and filler applied. I mounted the model on a board so that it's at the correct height so I can check the shape with a plastic cutout template. It really helps to have the model sitting at the correct height and attitude. Next I rough out the cab. The sides are fabricated from Arborite/Formica sample panels which I like as they are so flat and strong. The roof is cut from a sheet of steel salvaged from stereo equipment. Bent it slowly to shape over a block that I shaped into a template. Lots of cutouts and small sliders, vents etc added to it. Gradually I make more external fittings, pipework, handrails, and give it a rough coat of paint to see how she looks. OK, now onto the wheels. As with the Scotsman I made a master driving wheel and one bogie/cab/tender wheel from Renshape. Using my Dremel in a drill stand I ream out the spaces between the spokes. Once the master is finished and sanded I fastened it into a container and poured silicon over it to make a mold. I want to use machined aluminium as the wheel rim so I set that into the mold first then pour a 2 part urethane casting material into the mold. This bonds and hardens to the metal rim to make a usable wheel after some filing and sanding . Here's the small set of wheel rims and one with spokes. They will be cast in a similar method. Next I want to fabricate the fairly large spring sets that are under the cab. Since there's only one on each side I decide to fabricate both (rather than cast a pair). I made them both from scrap aluminium. There are ribbed gussets (?) on either side of the axle boxes and I found a perfect sized heat sink from a computer that let me cut out suitable gussets. Lots of hacking and hewing later I have a decent pair of springs. Mounted on a temporary backing here. So here's an "in progress" shot with her older brother the Flying Scotsman whose tender she's pinched. They don't look like it here but they ARE in the same scale. Next comes the fun part. ... fabricating all the metalwork/motion that goes with the wheels. I didn't take many pictures of making each piece as that gets boring. I have an aluminium strap that is 1" wide by 1/8th thick and almost every piece is hacksawed, filed and polished from that. The driving and connecting rods have a recess cut into their faces (a "U" shape) and I hog them out using cutting wheels on a Dremel. Lots of filing follows. It all gets bolted together using tiny bolts that I recently purchased. If I drill the hole in the aluminium slightly smaller than the bolt then I can slowly screw the bolt in such that it cuts threads and can be removed and replaced easily after that. Here's a work-in-progress shot. The Phillips bolt heads will eventually be filed flat and six-sided to look appropriate. The "body" has had the paint stripped and some fairing has been applied. Thanks for looking in. More to come. Frank
  21. Hi In a triple conversion from Heller kits the last one - Potez 651. The build thread is here Accordingly to typical French nomenclature for Interwar airplanes the "651" is a variant of Potez 65. But the story is a bit more difficult. The well known bomber Potez 540 has variants 541, 542 and 543. The last one was build for Romania and was equipped with radial Gnome Rhone engines. On the other hand the civilian (passenger) machine Potez 62 was constructed basing on that bomber. She had completely new, wider by 30 cm fuselage (what made also bigger wingspan by the same 30 cm) and engines, tail and wings taken from "540". The civilian machine was back militarized into a transport variant named Potez 65. And Romania, who used radial engine driven "543" ordered modified "65" with the same radial engines and moreover - with provision to be used as bomber. So in fact the "651" was not just a transport machine but it was transport-bomber one. The additional window in floor was installed with bombardier position behind it and (most likely - this is not confirmed unfortunately) with machine gun defence position on top of fuselage. Only four were delivered to Romania and and used along one militarized in Romania "62" as paratroopers transport or ambulance. Here she is: Comments welcome Regards Jerzy-Wojtek
  22. I was planning to build a Finnish Buffalo in this GB, but while leisure-browsing wikipedia I found the following image which lured me away from the chosen path. I present Flygfisken (image courtesy wiki): This thing has it all: it is quirky, has complicated rigging, a tailplane raised on sticks above the fuselage and a rotary engine suspended only by strings and struttery with an assortment of pipes going up to the fuel tank on the upper wing and down into the cockpit. And skis! It also has pedigree. It is a Donnet Leveque flying boat Type A (or C, opinions differ) first bought from France in 1913 by the Flying Baron Carl Cederström. It was called the Flying fish, a nick-name its paintjob likely helped to popularize: https://digitaltmuseum.org/021016340773/carl-cederstroms-flygbat-flygfisken-vid-loudden-1913-flygmaskin-av-typ Although that is tempting, I shall build it in its snowmobile configuration. Cederström sold it to the Navy where it got designation L II but retained its popular nickname. As the designation implies this was the second Donnet Leveque of the Navy - the first was bought by the excess money from a public donation that was collected to buy a [pocket] battleship (the government had decided it couldn’t afford any, so a public fund raiser was started - and the people decided it could indeed not only afford a battleship, but also some aeroplanes, but I digress). The Navy made good use of the plane until they donated it to the Marine museum in 1919. It was recently restored by volunteers. There is one mystery. The wings have one extra pair of interplane struts now compared to in 1913. My guess is that this is not an error by the restorers, but is an addition made back in the days after a crash, which according to what I’ve read, required extensive rebuild. The problem is is, I need to find the dimensions of these new wings.
  23. Hello... I greet the community from Argentina. I see that I joined Britmodeller in 2015, but I never wrote anything... I can assure you that I'm not a ghost! ^ ^ I am a lover of everything that has wings produced between 1919 and 1939... I am also very tempted by the WWI planes, and the beautiful curves of any time (of some planes too). Although the interwar world is usually silvery with some well-documented colors, being a ghost can sometimes be very convenient at the moment of interpreting lost livery in b/w. I embrace this hobby from the scratch, drawings, and some projects that revolve around them. My English is very bad, so I apologize in advance. If the subject be up to my knowledge, and I have time, it will be a pleasure to participate in Britmodeller. Saludos Matías
  24. This is a kit I've had on my to-do list for a relatively short time, but needs must, opportunity rises etc. etc... Did not expect to join the GB at the beginning, however, being confined to home there's no time like now. So, without further ado, I present you: The Swedish* Heavy Metal Display - Solo build. The kit is delivered in a sturdy, compact, but tall two-part packaging: Clicking around the site, I've also taken the liberty of adding some Aftermarket bits. Consisting of some LED lights:
  25. I'm building a 1/144 Sopwith Pup. This Valom kit requires some serious work to get to my standards so a few weeks of work to keep me busy. Starting with a Le Rhone 9c engine.
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