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  1. G`day Gals and Lads Trying to get something finish before the year ends. Here is my take on the VVA-14 from Modelsvit. The floats were scratch, using a solid plastic rod, plastic strips around them and resin cones for the ends, trying to present a different configuration of this fascinating machine. All the painting was done with Vallejo, from primer to clear coats. When the clear coat was drying somebody I love left a window open in the stash (aka the garage). A possum got in and the model fell from a shelf to almost a complete destruction... I spent a couple of days tidying up the garage and put the build aside for 3 months. Over the last week I have worked to recover the kit... I was more like building a puzzle than a kit... Anyways, I put it together and when it was time to put the decals on, they disintegrated! Bugger! I did what I could to save them. Lost only a couple of them in the end. As you can imagine, I just wanted to call it done. May work later to fix the silvering in the decals. I hope you like it. C&C welcome and appreciated. Adrian
  2. Just finished another project. Polikarpov I-152 (I-15bis) from Special Hobby in 1/48 scale. Building process and more pictures you can see here: https://goo.gl/photos/EWb28Anj2Hx8CUZ77 The model is not for beginners. There were some difficulties, but overall positive experience. The result - one box became less Hope you like it Regards Ivan.
  3. Trumpeter have released 4 exciting new 1/35 Scale Soviet/Russian Military Ground Vehicles this month. This release includes: a 9K58 Smerch-M on a 9A52-2 Launch Vehicle, a T-62 Mod 1962 (Iraq Modification), a Late Production NBC Vehicle and a 2S7 Self-Propelled Gun. For more information please see our Newsletter Here.
  4. Russian Navy Battleship Tsesarevich 1904 Trumpeter 1:350 History Tsesarevich was a pre-dreadnought battleship of the Imperial Russian Navy, built in France at the end of the 19th century. The ship's design formed the basis of the Russian-built Borodino-class battleships. She was based at Port Arthur, Manchuria after entering service and fought in the Russo-Japanese War of 1904–05. Tsesarevich was the flagship of Admiral Wilgelm Vitgeft in the Battle of the Yellow Sea and was interned in Tsingtau after the battle. At the end of the Russo-Japanese war, the ship was transferred to the Baltic in early 1906 and helped to suppress the Sveaborg Rebellion later that year. Around 1906, her fighting top was removed and her superstructure was cut down. The 75 mm guns in the superstructure were apparently removed as well. Tsesarevich made regular winter cruises to the Mediterranean before World War I and aided survivors of the Messina earthquake in December 1908. In 1909–10 the ship's machinery was overhauled and her amidships casemated 75 mm guns were removed and plated over four years later. Tsesarevich was not very active during the early part of World War I and she reportedly received two 37 mm anti-aircraft guns during the war. Because of her inactivity her bored sailors joined the general mutiny of the Baltic Fleet in early 1917. She was renamed Grazhdanin on 13 April 1917 after the February Revolution. The ship took part in the Battle of Moon Sound in October 1917. During the climatic part of the battle, Grazhdanin engaged the German minesweepers on 17 October with little effect while Slava engaged the German dreadnoughts König and Kronprinz. The latter fired at Grazhdanin and hit her twice, killing one and wounding four crewmen, although neither hit caused significant damage. The German dreadnoughts outranged Grazhdanin and she was forced to retreat and abandon Moon Sound in the face of German pressure. By December the ship was in Kronstadt where she came under the control of the Bolsheviks and she was hulked there in May 1918. Grazhdanin was scrapped beginning in 1924, although she was not officially stricken from the Navy List until 21 November 1925 The ship was ordered as part of the "Programme for the Needs of the Far East", authorised by Tsar Nicholas II in 1898 to defend Russia's newly acquired ice-free port of Port Arthur in Manchuria. Russian shipyards were already at full capacity so the Naval Ministry decided to order ships from abroad. Specifications were issued on 14 June 1898 and a few days later the chief designer of the French shipyard Forges et Chantiers de la Méditerranée proposed a design based on that of the French battleship Jauréguiberry. The Naval Technical Committee approved the design with a few changes to which the French readily agreed. The General Admiral, Grand Duke Alexei Alexandrovich selected the French design over a competing proposal from the Baltic Works. A contract was signed on 20 July 1898 at a cost of 30.28 million francs (11.355 million rubles) for delivery in 42 months. Tsesarevich 's most obvious design feature was her tumblehome hull. This had several advantages because it allowed greater freeboard since the narrow upper decks reduced the structural weight of the vessel's hull, it increased the field of fire of guns mounted on the sides, and it reduced the ship's roll in heavy seas. Its great disadvantage was that it reduced buoyancy and stability which contributed to excessive heel during turns. During the Battle of the Yellow Sea in August 1904, Imperial Japanese Navy observers thought the Tsesarevich was going to capsize when she suddenly turned out of the battleline. Tsesarevich was 118.5 metres (388 ft 9 in) long overall, had a beam of 23.2 metres (76 ft 1 in) and a draught of 7.92 metres (26 ft 0 in). The ship displaced 13,105 tonnes (12,898 long tons). Her crew consisted of 28–29 officers and 750 enlisted men. The Model Having released the Tsesarevich in her 1917 guise last year, Trumpeter have now released a kit of her as she was when first completed. The kit comes a top opening box with a very nice artists impression of the ship, anchored at the head of the battle line. On opening, the modeller is confronted with the two hull halves, whose bow and stern sections are given extra foam protection, eight sprues of medium grey styrene, three sub-sprues, five sheets of etched brass, a length of brass chain and a small decal sheet. The sprues are clear of flash and other imperfections and there are fewer moulding pips than normally found on Trumpeters ship kits. The moulded on detail is very nicely done and it appears that the unusual tumblehome shape of the hull has been moulded with all the right curves, although as I don’t have any plans I can’t tell if it’s totally correct, but it certainly looks the part. With the amount of etch contained in the kit it really can be made straight out of the box without the need of any additional aftermarket sets, although this probably won’t deter the aftermarket companies from releasing them. Before construction proper can begin, the modeller needs to open up quite a few holes, both on the hull sides and the main decks. These are clearly marked in the instructions and on the parts themselves where the holes have been flashed over. The build begins with the construction of several sub-assemblies. These include the six secondary turrets, each made up of the two barrels which are slid unglued onto the trunnion which in turn is glued to the trunnion pivots which are glued to the turret base. The turret itself is then slid over the barrels and glued to the base before being finished off with the addition of a PE rail on the turret roof. The two main turrets are constructed in a similar fashion, but without a roof rail. Next up are the eleven maxim machine guns, made from two styrene parts, (the gun and shield), along with the PE base folded to shape. The six single 75mm guns are all styrene, and consist of the barrel, shield, swivel mount and base, whilst the twelve 47mm cannon come as a single piece barrel/mount requiring only the shield to be fitted. The modeller then has to assemble four cable reels, each with PE stands, PE drum ends and styrene drum, along with six two piece deck mounted bitts. There are another twelve 75mm guns in casemates along the hull and these are glued to three internal bases per side and slid through their firing ports from the inside. With these fitted the hull halves are joined together with the rudder sandwiched between the halves, along with two sturdy bulkheads. The side mounts for the twin 6” secondary turrets are fitted, one per side, near the top of the hull sides. The quarterdeck and bilge keels are also glued into their respective positions. The main deck is the attached along with the quarterdeck/main deck bulkhead, followed by the upper side pieces and lower bridge wings. The large windlass, made up of eight styrene and four PE parts is assembled and positioned at the rear of the foredeck. From the bow, the foredeck is then fitted out with the jack staff, cleats, bitts, ventilators and the splinter shields for the port and starboard 6” turrets. Moving admidships there are three deckhouses fitted, the front one being the base of the bridge. Before attaching the next level of the bridge structure, six supports and the base of the foremast need to be glued into position. With these in place the bridge piece, which has been fitted with the armoured control tower to the underside, can be slid over the mast section and glued into position, followed by the two 6” turrets and two capstains. The bridge is slowly built up with the upper section of the tower, the bridge itself and a further deck with additional deckhouses and deck supports. Four of the 75mm guns are fitted two per side, just aft of the bridge. One deck up an there is a complicated bit of bending required to fit the railing, which you will need to be careful not to knock off as you fit the six 47mm guns, binnacle and rangefinder to the deck. Moving aft the fore-funnel is assembled from two halves and fitted with two PE blocks to the rear, a PE vertical ladder for each side, plus a PE funnel cap, the completed funnel is then fitted to its position just aft of the bridge structure along with a pair of PE inclined ladders. Meanwhile back to the foredeck, and the fitting of the four anchors, plus a pair of booms, one port and one starboard between each pair of anchors. The foretop is then assembled with the main styrene part being fitted with PE angled supports on the underside, whilst on the topside four 47mm guns are fitted, along with PE window frames fore and after and finished off with the roof. This assembly is then attached to the top of the lower foremast section. Between the funnels there are two boat cradle decks, each made up of both styrene and PE parts and glued into their respective positions, one aft of the fore-funnel and one foreward of the aft funnel. On the foretop roof there is a small gun station fitted out with three maxim machine guns with another section of foremast glued to the centre. Just aft of the rear funnel there is another winch unit, this one made up of seven parts. The front main 12” turret can now be fitted along with the two side mounted 6” turrets, whilst the foremast is fitted off with anotehr platform on which another section of mast is fitted along with a searchlight. The previously attached boat decks are fitted with PE cradles onto which the four large cutters are mounted, each cutter also having a two piece whale boat cradled on their thwarts. The aft boat deck is for the steam launches, with each of the four launches, two large and two smaller are each made up of the hull, deck, funnel, gun mount, gun, searchlight, ventilators and propeller, with the smaller ones also having a rear mounted maxim and a torpedo. With the boats fitted the rear funnel can be assembled, this consists of two funnel halves, PE vertical ladders, PE blocks, PE funnel cap and a PE derrick complete with hook. The completed funnel is then glued into position. At the centre of the foreward boat deck there is a searchlight tower made from a PE tower structure, PE railings, PE ladder and styrene searchlight. The aft superstructure supports are attached, along with the aft pair of 6” turrets, the aft mounted main 12” turret along with two decklights, inclined ladders, aft mounted anchor, spare anchor just aft of the rear boat deck, a pair of derricks each side, the boat booms, bitts, cleats and ensign staff. The after superstructure deck is fitted with a deckhouse and angled supports glued to the underside, before being fitted onto the previously attached supports between the two aft 6” turrets. The four piece steam launch derrick is assembled and fitted to the rear of the aft superstructure deck along with another deckhouse and further deck supports, onto which another deck is fitted. This upper deck is fitted with six 47mm guns and another complex railing which will require careful bending to shape. Both the foremast and mainmast are finished off with the addition of the mast tops and various length yards and platforms along with each having a pair of searchlights fitted. The foreward boat deck is then fitted with a pair of large davits complete with PE downfalls, whilst the two convoluted, (to cope with the weird tumblehome shape of the hull), PE accommodation ladders are assembled and glued one per side aft of the steam launch deck. Another pair of whale boats are attached to the derricks previously fitted to the ships sides. To finish the kit of it’s only a matter of fitting the two propeller shafts, propellers and assembling the stand supplied, complete with a nice plaque with the ships name on. Decals The small decal sheet contains two sizes of ships crest, the Russian and Ensign, in both flat and wavey form. For what it is, it is very nicely printed, although the blue cross on the wavey ensign appears to be quite a bit out of register. Conclusion I just love the look of these ships in which you can clearly see the French influences. They look so wrong that they’re right, if you know what I mean. This is a very interesting kit and will make a nice, different addition to any maritime collection. Without any plans I cannot say definitively how accurate it is, but it looks pretty good when compared with the published photographs, although the kit seems to be a little undergunned in the tertiary department as the details show that she actually was armed with a few more 47mm and additional 37mm cannon. Otherwise it is a very nice kit and can recommend it quite highly. Review sample courtesy of UK Distributors for
  5. source: https://www.facebook.com/Modelcollect/photos/a.153755038112938.33382.153752164779892/494021000753005/?type=1&theater
  6. 1/72 - Russian Object 640 Black Eagle tank - is confirmed as a next release by ModelCollect here under the Armata 3D model: 6 wheels version 7 wheels version from facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Modelcollect/photos/a.153755038112938.33382.153752164779892/494021000753005/?type=1&theater Modelcollect Hobby Inc. Russian Object 640 (Black eagle) Main Battle Tank John Karr Will the back eagle have seven road wheels? To se mi líbí · Odpovědět · 17 červen v 2:14 Modelcollect Hobby Inc. black eagle will have two ver. first ver is 6 wheels To se mi líbí · 18 červen v 2:36 from wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_Eagle_%28tank%29
  7. Good afternoon everyone! First of all something needs clearing up, the vulcan build will not be proceding in the immediate future due to my realisation that I had made the whole thing wrong, I won't go into detail but I will consider that practice for scratchbuilding :| Anyway, let us begin on this build! I came across this large kit at the Cosford model show, only a few days ago, and as it happens I had purchased a book on the Tupolev Tu-22 "Blinder" as I am very interested in "the other side's" technology and aircraft. While the Tu22 may not have been the most prolific aircraft in the Soviet arsenal-due to the high landing speed and relative obscelence after the development of the Tu22M. So what do I plan to do with this kit? Well, I would like to have one side as a standard "out of the box build" with the other half containing pieces that have been cut away to reveal sections of the engine/payload bay/cockpits and nose section. The key feature that I would love to implement is the downward-firing ejection seats that would be wound up into the cockpits before taking off. I am always open to any suggestions and tips that anyone wants to incorporate into the build and will do my best to try and do this with a decent level of quality although I will apologise if I don't do particular features of this aircraft-I model for my own enjoyment, I am sure you all understand. Alas! Some photos shall follow: The box The book... The downward firing ejector seats-not suited to low level operations More to come! Sam
  8. Bereznyak-Isayev Bi-1 Mikro-Mir 1:48 Flying a fighter aircraft during World War 2 was an extremely dangerous profession by anyone's standards. Flying an experimental, rocket-powered, Soviet-built, wooden and fabric constructed fighter aircraft was practically suicidal! The Bereznyak-Isayev BI-1 was the brainchild of Aleksandr Bereznyak and Aleksei Isayev. The idea was proposed in July of 1941, and by September of the same year the first unpowered glider flight was undertaken. Because of the rapid German advance through Soviet territory, the factory building the BI-1 had to be relocated further to the east. This delay meant that the first powered flight didn't take place until May 15th 1942. On landing the undercarriage was damaged. The third Bereznyak-Isayev BI-1 prototype crashed on its seventh flight, sadly killing fighter ace Captain Grigory Bakhchivandzhi when it pitched down sharply during a high-speed run. Bakhchivandzhi was posthumously awarded Hero of the Soviet Union. During an investigation into the accident, the engineers concluded that the aircraft had become unstable at transonic speeds. Bakhchivandzhi had been in two other accidents during the development of the BI. He was the pilot during the first flight which crash landed. And during a grounded engine test in 1942, the engine exploded. In the explosion, the engine head was catapulted into the back of the pilot's seat, knocking Bakhchivandzhi against the instrument panel and injuring him slightly. To protect the pilot in the future, a 5.5 mm steel plate was fixed to the back of the seat. The sixth Bereznyak-Isayev BI prototype was fitted with wingtip ramjets in an effort to extend the rather pathetic 15 minutes of powered flight. They didn't help much and proved difficult to start. Only seven Bereznyak-Isayev BI prototypes were completed, although 50 were scheduled to be built. Each one of the seven prototypes had its own issues, and the engineers were constantly having problems with both the liquid-fuelled rockets and the stability of the aircraft itself. Additionally the aircraft were corroded by the very fuel which was designed to power them! The red fuming nitric acid would eat away at the fuel tanks and the aircraft's fabric skin. Both BI-1 and BI-7 were scrapped due to excessive corrosion. In the end the Bereznyak-Isayev BI project was abandoned, and it became yet another dead-end experimental aircraft - with the emphasis on mental. The model Micro-Mir is probably best known for their super collection of 1:350 submarine releases. They are now branching out and releasing aircraft in most of the major scales. Being Micro-Mir they won’t just be producing the more common types of aircraft, and this release shows just that. The kit comes in an attractive top opening box with an artists impression of the aircraft in flight. Inside, the kit is contained in a poly bag with a sticky flap, with the decals, etched sheet and masks contained in a separate poly bag. The grey styrene is rather soft and due to the nature of the of the aircrafts build there aren’t too many details, but what panel lines etc there are, are nicely defined. The smaller parts on the sprues do have a small feather of flash around them which will need to be carefully removed; this is just the way of limited run kits. The two clear parts are well moulded and pretty clear, but could do with a dip in your favourite varnish. The kit is pretty basic, but then so was the real aircraft and the build starts with the assembly of the cockpit, which consists of the floor, rear bulkhead, instrument panel, with etched panel and an acetate sheet for the instruments. The pilots seat is fitted out with a full set of etched seatbelts before being fitted into place along with the joystick and rudder pedals. Before closing up the fuselage the throttle quadrant is attached to the port sidewall. With the fuselage closed up the headrest can be fitted, along with the nose mounted cannon barrels, windscreen and separate canopy. The horizontal tailplanes are then attached and fitted with the vertical endplates, while right aft, the rocket nozzle is attached. The wings are assembled next, and consist of a single piece lower section, wheel bay and two upper sections. The completed wing assembly is then attached to eh underside of the fuselage and fitted out with the main undercarriage. This is made up of single piece oleos, single piece wheels/tyres, plus the inner and outer undercarriage bay doors. Finally the tailwheel is attached to the ventral fin, thus completing the build. Decals The small decals sheet is printed in house and contains just six Russian stars and two white number sixes. They look pretty well printed, in good register and appear quite thin, with little carrier film evident. To help with painting Micro-Mir has kindly included a small sheet of masks for the canopy and windscreen. The single colour scheme is a camouflage of black and green. Conclusion This is certainly one of the most unusual aircraft I’ve had to review, and had little knowledge of its existence. With care and acknowledging its limited run credentials it will turn out into a nice little model, looking good in any collection. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  9. Dear Fellow Modellers This is the Trumpeter KV-1s with Armo markings from the 1942 Don Front. Fit didn't seem as good as I remembered with the earlier KV-1 types they did. I used the hair spray technique for the Whitewash. What do you think? Andrew
  10. Heavy Transport Aircraft An-22 (late version) Eastern Express 1:144 The Antonov An-22 was a specialist heavy transport aircraft that was originally assigned to the Strategic Transport Command of the Russian Air Force during the Soviet era. The An-22, Nato code designation "Cock", was powered by four sets of turbo-prop engines and was classed as the most powerful propeller aircraft the world had ever seen. The nearest equivalent being the massive Tupolev Tu-95/142 Bear. The An-22 first appeared in the mid-1960's; it had a registered load capacity of 80 tonnes within its wide-bodied fuselage and was used to transport heavy loads or troops on operational duties. The aircraft was superceded in the late 1980's by the larger jet engined Antonov An-124. The An-22 continued to operate in the Soviet/Russian Air Force for a number of years, including troop lifts to conflict areas during the break up of the Soviet Union and also providing humanitarian aid around the world. The Kit On opening the box it is obvious that this is going to be a big model once assembled. The fuselage alone consists of at least 12 components and that is not including the tail assembly. The panel lines are finely recessed and look good, however care made need to be taken that these fine lines do not get filled with primer and top coat; especially if brush painting. There are 16 sprues containing the main units and 1 clear sprue holding the canopy and fuselage windows, plus a nose unit. One important element to note is that, although the instruction sheets show part numbers, no corresponding numbers are shown on any of the actual components and therefore strict adherence to the illustrated instructions will be essential. The next point which again needs to be noted is that there are no locator pins or tabs (male and female connection points) on any of these components. This means that alignment of parts, such as the left and right fuselage halves, needs to be achieved by lining up the corresponding panel lines which meet at these junction points. I have had a go at dry fitting some of these pieces and the exercise was very fiddly, mainly as the fuselage is a three-piece assembly (top left, top right and underside) and without location pins I found it difficult to keep things aligned. I would recommend lots of tape be kept handy in order to hold and align two pieces whilst lining up the third and then apply glue. The sprue connectors are nice and small thereby making it convenient for removing the component part with minimal residue to file down. There are however small amounts of flash on the parts, as can be seen on the rear of the fuselage assemblies above and below. As mentioned earlier, the fuselage assembly is made up from a considerable number of pieces; the lower part of the fuselage being a type of double-hull construction. This means that the main fuselage section, the piece with the three windows in the image above, needs to be glued to an inner part of the under-deck piece of the lower fuselage assembly, before the outer piece (the part in the lower left of the above image). I have dry fitted this area to demonstrate what is meant by this and posted the image below. This three-piece assembly could prove a challenge without the locator pin/tabs mentioned. The pieces appear to sit in place OK, once taped, but they may still be prone to movement so a final alignment check before glueing anything would definitely be recommended. This side view also shows how far in from the normal edge that the main fuselage has to be positioned, again without locator pins, before gluing into place. The rectangular piece which juts out from both sides of the fuselage, as seen above, comprises the main wheel bays component; as described in the section on sprue N further down in this review. The nose section of the fuselage, cockpit area and instrument panel parts are supplied on sprue C. I would think this area would need to be built and pre-painted internally before attachment to the rest of the fuselage. Once completed, this model is going to be quite long and may possibly be a tail-sitter. The instructions recommend weight to be added within the forward part of the nose section but does not elaborate on how much weight to use. This could be another area where a bit of time spent dry-fitting and testing with different weights may prove beneficial in the long run. Care may also need to be taken here, as too much weight could cause strain on the area around the front and main fuselage joints. Sprue D contains the lower fuselage assembly I described previously and where the main fuselage would be fitted to. The two long indentations, between the wheel bays, are the areas where the main fuselage would be glued to which is over 2cm (almost 1 inch) inside the outer edge of this piece. As such, this is a very unusual, but necessary, way of assembling a fuselage. The next three sprues; E, F and G, hold the wing and tailplane pieces. The top section of the upper part of the main wing has been produced in three parts; central, outer left and outer right sections. A nice little touch is the placement markings for the engines. Each engine location cut out on the wings is marked L1, R1, L2 etc., to denote the left and right engine pieces. The engines/cowlings are similarly marked to ensure the correct engine is mated to its corresponding location on the wing. We then have the vertical stabaliser/rudder pieces on spue H. Each piece is marked L or R and accordingly should be matched with its counterpart for glueing before to the tailplane elements from Sprue K below. The ramp section, which is situated under the rear fuselage and tail sections, is quite long and consists of three components. One of those, the main ramp, is also part of Spue K above. There are four sets of Sprue L, each consisting of a contra-rotating properller set, plus four of the 16 main wheels/tyres and two front wheels. The model has been designed so that the propellers can be assembled to be free-wheeling and, in order to allow for the contra-rotating element, there is a central plug on which both props plus four separation washers/cleats are to be assembled but not glued. A fifth washer/cleat is then glued onto the end of the plug thereby holding the propellers and cleats in free state. Sprue M has the engine cowling covers and, matching with the wing locators, are marked L1, R1, L2 etc. to ensure correct fitting to each other. The parts which make up the majority of Sprue N above make up the internal main wheel bays. When assembled, the unit has a square box shape and acts as a strengthener for attaching the main fuselage halves to. The final components sprue has all the remaining components for this build; consisting of seats, joysticks and various antennae and fuselage strakes etc. The clear sprue which came with this kit had some slight rubbing marks on the canopy surface. It should not be a problem though as the area concerned is a painted area. The marks are very light and should disappear with a bit of rubbing down, priming and painting. Instruction Sheets The two page instruction sheet is of the illustrative type, with no text as such for additional guidance. Due diligence really does need to be applied here, when identifying which item goes where; mainly because there are no corresponding numbers on the plastic parts themselves. With the exception of the engines and vertical stabaliser parts, that have L or R notations, you are left to make identify everything from these illustrations below. Although I stated that there are no numbers shown on the parts themselves, there is a visual breakdown of what those part numbers should be on the components sheet as shown below. The colour demarcations and marking sheet below should be very useful when painting up your completed model and applying the decals. I would take this sheet and get it enlarged to 1:144 scale so that I could get exact placement to match with the illustrations. DECALS The decal sheet is impressive. It contains over 100 items and the registration appears to be quite clear and crisp. I am, however, concerned that all the decals appear to be on one single backing sheet and will each need to be cut out separately before applying to the model. The kit area is so large though that cutting out each element should not be a major concern as there will be a good sized gap around each part. I particularly like the cockpit window frames which are in silver. This really will be a benefit, rather than having to mask and paint those tiny areas. The same applies for the leading edges of the propellers as there are 32 little silver strips that are applied, one for each propeller blade. Conclusion This is a very large kit with lots and lots of components and, even with the lack of locator pins/tabs; plus the unusual and complex method of assembling the fuselage; I found that when dry fitted the parts looked to fit nicely. The only area that appeared to need attention was some uneveness on the top fuselage join and therefore some filling may be needed in that area. The model is probably not for a beginner, and will probably need a little more effort and concentration to assemble, with regular referrals to the instruction sheet and any other reference aids but it should turn out to be a lovely looking model when finished. Review sample courtesy of
  11. HobbyBoss 83841 Soviet T-35 Heavy Tank - 'Early' with HobbyBoss 81011 Soviet T-35 Heavy Tank Track-Links Day 1: Official start time will be 12:00 noon, Saturday 31st January 2015 Oh Yes! I'm back!!!
  12. Mil Mi-4 Hound Hobby Boss 1/72 Finally managed to get a build finished this year. It was a nice little kit with reasonably good fit and detail but for some reason I decided to make it incredibly fiddly and fragile with the addition of Eduard's exterior etch set. It does add some nice details though. Hope you enjoy the shots Thanks for looking Andy
  13. Russian Red Stars 1:48 Maketar These masks are for Russian Red Stars with, and without outlines. Vol I comprises Star Sizes: 700-800-900-1000-1100-1200mm - Total of 36 masks - Red Stars. Vol II comprises Star Sizes: 700-800-900-1000-1100-1200mm - Total of 36 masks - Red Stars with black outline. Vol III comprises Star Sizes: 700-800-900-1000-1100-1200mm - Total of 36 masks - Red Stars with Yellow & Black outlines. There are no instructions but then they are not really needed. Recommended for those who don't like decals, or if you want the true painted on look for your Soviet models. Stars without outline Stars with Black outline Stars with White & Yellow outline Review sample courtesy of
  14. Okay the bad news first; despite the rather lurid title, I only completed two models this year, an Il-2 Shturmovik and an La-5, both in the gentleman's scale of 1/72nd. Now the good news - this doubles my output from last year! The Il-2 arrow (swept-winged variant) was from the Toko kit, with wooden wings represented by labouriously sanding down the wings to rid it of the engraved panel lines. The La-5 was built strictly out of the box, and the kit is a repop of the old, but quite nice Cooperativa kit. I'm not too happy with the exhaust stains on the La-5, but I was in a hurry to get if "officially" finished for 2014. The lack of weathering is deliberate - looking at photographs, the La-5 was usually kept in pretty good nick. I may well revisit the exhausts and the near lack of exhaust stains on my Il-2. The Il-2's engine, the Mikulin AM-38 was not a particularly oily or greasy engine, but it did put out quite a bit of exhaust. At any rate here they are, in all their mediocre glory! As usual I apologise for the poor quality of the photography, assembly, decaling, weathering, etc. Best Regards, Jason You may wonder why I have so many photographs for such so-so models, but I happen to go by what the Vozhd ("Boss" - Stalin) is reputed to have said - "Quantity has a quality all its own.".
  15. Hi guys, Another vacform on the forum... this time in the shape of a IL-76 in 1/72. I'm not to sure on what it's going to look like when done, the fuselage looks 'OK' but the tail plane is going to need some work as to me it don't look right. I'm not one for rivet counting but I would like it to resemble a IL-76/78 at least. I'm actually building this as a IL-82 / IL-76VKP (See here for those that don't know!) I've cut out and sanded all the fuselage, made most of the bulkheads so the fuselage isn't far off going together. Once the fuselage is together I plan on cutting the front off to do all the interior of the cockpit etc! Here's the kit for the time being. (photos taken on a set of scales that are 4ft square to give a rough size) Sanger - IL-78 'Midas' - 1/72nd scale vacform kit. by Rainbow 1984, on Flickr Sanger - IL-78 'Midas' - 1/72nd scale vacform kit. by Rainbow 1984, on Flickr Sanger - IL-78 'Midas' - 1/72nd scale vacform kit. by Rainbow 1984, on Flickr Update soon
  16. This is the 1/72 Moskalyev Cam 23 by Mikr Mir. The WIP thread is here http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234963754-moskalyev-cam-23-finished/. This is a prototype aircraft that was used to develop a very crude type of terrain following system. Some inventive soul that knew nothing about flying decided on a novel way to create a terrain hugging aircraft. Here is a picture of the box art depicting it in the terrain following mode. So, the idea is have the tail wheel do double duty as a tail wheel and as the means to determine the terrain below the plane. The tail wheel would be extended down the length of the aircraft and through a series of levers would automatically control the elevators up and down as the tail wheel rolled on the ground beneath the aircraft. Three immediate concerns should have hit the designer in the face: 1. Hopefully the terrain the plane is to follow does not have any dips or peaks higher or lower than the length of the plane; 2. The assumption is the plane will only fly where there are no obstacles that stick out of the ground, like fences, trees, bushes, buildings; and 3. Having a pilot fly for any length of time about 20 feet off of the ground without crashing seems a bit demanding of the pilot. Luckily for the Russians, this plane never went into production. Perhaps the designer of the plane was a German trying to help the war effort! The kit is a fairly straight forward, short run kit. There is very little flash and the parts fit together semi-okay. I gave up on using the plastic parts to create the tail wheel assembly as it fits to the nose and just used wire instead. The detail on the little engine cylinders was fantastic. But, there was not any reference to an exhaust system or parts. Again, some wire was used to simulate (poorly) the exhaust pipes for each cylinder. It is a very small plane and the parts are delicate. I really didn’t have any problem with this kit and enjoyed it greatly. If you have an interest in very weird aircraft, I would recommend this kit in a heartbeat. And here it is home with some other Russian buddies. As always, all comments welcome.
  17. While searching through my business storage unit I discovered (re-discovered?) this kit. (Yes I know I have a stash at my home, a stash at my business and the secret one that even SWMBO doesn’t know about at my business storage unit. I have a problem.) It is from Mikr Mir, a Russian company. The model is of a prototype from Moskalyev designated Cam-23. There is an absolute dearth of knowledge about this plane on the internet. From the little information I have found, it seems this was a proposed ground attack/support aircraft with a unique twist. The rear wheel was on a long arm running the length of the fuselage. In flight, it was extended down to the ground and the concept was it would be a crude terrain following device. Somehow a secondary arm attached to the main arm was directly linked to the elevator. When the wheel rolling on the ground compressed as the terrain changed upward, it would cause the elevator to automatically adjust the plane’s height to keep it at a constant ground hugging level. Believe it or not, this really didn’t get past the prototype stage; go figure. The first obstacle to this concept working is once the plane begins to climb, what brings it back down to the correct level when the terrain dips back down? Second, since this is a really small aircraft, the arm couldn’t have been longer than 20 feet. This doesn’t give a lot of reaction time to climb out of harm’s way. If the plane had gone into production, I think it would have helped the German war effort immensely. You have to wonder how this ever got further than a drawing board concept as someone, with a bit of sense, should have said no way this is going to work. Anyway, I found this kit staring at me, it looked really simple, and I thought I could work on it as I wait for various things to dry on my Neptune build. The parts count is not high. And the instructions are not exactly rocket science; that, and they are entirely in Russian. Looks like this will be a build strictly based on pictures and diagrams. I started off by painting parts while still on the sprues. Then it is off to build the tiny little cockpit. It looks like it consists of a floor, rear bulkhead, seat, instrument panel, control stick and rudder pedals. I started off with the seat. My initial thought with this kit was to detail it as much as possible as I have been shamed (maybe a bit too harsh there) by some nameless people (Nigel, Hendie, Vanja, Duncan) into being more aggressive in scratchbuilding than OOB. So I started with the seat and began to drill out the lightening holes. I then painted it a dull metal colour. My reasoning was this being a prototype, not a whole lot of effort would go to make sure the interior was protected from use, abuse and the elements. I also added some homemade seat belts from masking tape. Using the premise pilot safety probably not high on the list for this aircraft (look at the concept!!) and Russian, I just did seat belts and not a harness. Here is where I ran into trouble. I cannot even find a picture on the web for this plane, other than this kit’s box art. So my project of detailing the interior went nowhere as I couldn’t find a single reference picture for it. Back to OOB. I assembled all of the cockpit parts and placed them in the starboard fuselage. I buttoned up the fuselage and not a whole lot is visible of the small amount of work I did do. While I waited for the fuselage halves to dry, I started work on the engine cylinders. I thought I should put a bit of effort into them as they are exposed on the kit. I have never built a Mikr Mir kit before, but I must say on their engine parts, the molds are just superb. I am most impressed by the amount of detail they have been able to put in these small parts. For frame of reference as to the cylinder size, here is a photo of one of the cylinders next to the tip of a scalpel blade. Just really is amazing. The wings were built up next, along with the engine housing that goes on top of the fuselage. I then affixed the wings to the fuselage. There was a bit of sanding, scraping on both the wing mating surfaces and the fuselage mating surface to make these two fit together. Once the wings and fuselage were joined the engine housing was placed on top of the fuselage. This really is a very tiny aircraft. It is almost the same as putting a 1/144 kit together. In the next picture, I have borrowed a propeller blade from my Neptune build (also 1/72) to show exactly how small this plane is. The next step is attaching the pylons from the wing to the tail and making sure they are parallel and level. The elevator is then attached with the tail fin waiting its turn. The tail fin is in two pieces; a ¾ piece that fits on top of the elevator and extends down and a second piece comprising the rest of the lower elevator. These two pieces did not match in size at all. So, going by the diagram in the instructions, the lower piece was trimmed to fit the size of the upper piece. And finally, the landing gear struts were attached to the fuselage. This is a good stopping point for this kit. I will let everything set and harden as the kit is extremely fragile due to its size and the delicate rear pylons. In fact, the plastic pieces are so thin I switched from styrene cement to superglue when I started working on the pylons and rear section. I was afraid the plastic was not thick enough to withstand the dissolving qualities of styrene glue. The next step will be to paint the two tone camouflage scheme. If the cylinders are installed prior to this, it will be a nightmare to mask and all of them would be knocked off during the paint process. This will also give me time to try to devise some sort of exhaust system for this plane. All comments always welcome.
  18. Evening all! Apologies about the photo's quality (or lack of quality)! This quick little 2 hour build started from an obsession (practically everything nuclear weapons, cold war or anything military post ww2). I have been aware of the Topol and Topol-M missiles for quite a while and have always wanted to build a model of one, naturally, and having seen the new Zvezda offering I decided to think about making my own. Weeks went by with nothing much being done until I came across the Zvezda Topol model in my local model shop, when I got home I sat down with some plasticard, some plastic tubing and some foamboard and created a model of the Topol-M in its "erected" position. As said previously it was all made in 2 and a bit hours with only classical music and glasses of water to keep me going! I don't know the scale as I started from the ground up and so the wheels of the Topol were scaled down to the width of the tubing and everything went from there. Hope you enjoy! Sam
  19. Hi guys, Dad's been busy scanning again so I'm going to just post up a mixed selection of the best ones. (all good though!) Thanks for the interest in the other threads (here and here for those that missed them)... hope this is as interesting..! CCCP-76701 by stage1uk, on Flickr CCCP-95448 by stage1uk, on Flickr 38 by stage1uk, on Flickr 156 by stage1uk, on Flickr CCCP-64006 by stage1uk, on Flickr 595 by stage1uk, on Flickr CCCP-82032 by stage1uk, on Flickr 388 AND CCCP-82032 by stage1uk, on Flickr OK-020 by stage1uk, on Flickr OK-020 by stage1uk, on Flickr CS-TEM by stage1uk, on Flickr F-GBYN by stage1uk, on Flickr D-ABMC by stage1uk, on Flickr OO-SDP by stage1uk, on Flickr G-AXNC by stage1uk, on Flickr F-GCJL by stage1uk, on Flickr N381PA by stage1uk, on Flickr F-BTTB by stage1uk, on Flickr F-GCVL by stage1uk, on Flickr F-BUAI by stage1uk, on Flickr F-BTTB by stage1uk, on Flickr Until next time and thanks for looking!
  20. Hello dear Helicopter fans. Northstarmodels announced several new items in Heli line series - products for model kits of Helicopters. 1/72 scale NS72048 Photoetched set Mi-24 V/VP/D interior set (cockpit + cargo cabin) Zvezda model kit NS72049 Ka-50/52 rapid-fire unit NPPU-80 with 2A42 30mm gun. Resin, photoetched parts and brass barrel. NS72056 Kamov Ka-8 Soviet Helicopter. Full model kit. Resin, PE parts, decal. NS72068 Additional internal fuel tanks for Mi-8 (resin, PE, decal) NS72071-a Ka-50/52 Wheels set Na mask series NS72081 Photoetched set Mi-24 V/VP/D cockpit Zvezda model kit NS72089-a Wheels set for Mi-24 ,Mi-35,Mi-28 No mask series 1/48 scale NS48054-a Mi-24 V/VP/D Hind wheels set No mask series
  21. Hello I thought I'd do this group build. I recently discovered my local model shop and have been 3 times in the last few days. Today I bought this kit for £5 - and it's entirely complete. I was pretty suprised to be honest but happy with it. The only thing I want to do is get different decals - I hate having generic USSR decals so I might get some Polish ones or print my own. This is the last kit I'm doing entirely by hand I hope (airbrush should be coming soon) but the first I'm going to build extra detail for - including printing cockpit details, making some joysticks and such from spare parts, and so on. Any advice is appreciated but I'm not going for the most accurate model ever. I'm not as amazing as some of you lot so it frustrates me too much to do so I started the kit today for this - I've done pretty much nothing but thought I'd share and update when I can (hopefully daily). So the box was very pretty for what it was, I like the artwork. The instructions (haven't photoed) are really handy too - separated into inside, wing assembly, fuselage, painting, decals. The first thing that happened? Well it's an oldish kit I think. Either way there was a small crack as part of the kit came of the sprue. Some left over green stuff from my Warhammer times (which I may get back into...*sigh*) came to the rescue. The inside is messy, but I'm not too fussed as it wont be visible at all. I used some Skull White to undercoat the inside of the cockpit and the pilots seats. They don't look great, but they'll be fine once some detail is added. And then I realized...I'm going to have to do some work - Green Stuff to the rescue again? Or anyone got a better idea?
  22. Anyone know for sure if pitot probes on MiG 21s have a slight kink or change of direction? I'm sure I've seen photos of this but none of my plans show it.
  23. Crew Figures 1:350 Eduard With most of the maritime kits covered in Eduards range of etched sets they have now started producing crews to man your completed masterpieces. They have had a few sets out for a while, but this latest batch covers a couple of different Navies and time periods. There is a single sheet of what looks like tinned etched brass on which several rows of figures are attached. Each set is pre-painted and self adhesive, making it a lot easier to produce each crewman just by the act of folding the two halves together. In this batch there are two sets for the Royal Navy, one for the Pacific and Far East, the other RN Gun Crew. The other two sets contain crew for the Russian Navy, one for from WWI, which also contains three rows of life rings, the other for WWII. I’m still unsure about these sets, as even with double thickness, they still look a little flat. Conclusion Apart from my reservations about the thickness of these items they do help add some much need life to a model ship, particularly if the model is in a seascape. Great for all sizes of ship, but you will need to buy a fair few sets of different poses to man a battleship or aircraft carrier. Recommended Review sample courtesy of
  24. Here is one of my christmas builds, although I bought it some years ago! (one of those you build before the christmas models arrives and makes you forget older unbuilt models). I searched for a long time for a camo and I finally went for a woodland camo used for BA-10s, adapted to both the tank and the gun. At one point I added too much inkings and weatherings, and I had to "clean" a bit the tank to don't make it look like it has been taken out from a lake! The crew is painted representing a reconaissance camo, although it ended up looking too much like the 60s uniform. I modified all the original poses as I didn't like them all being just seating on top of the tank doing nothing. More pics here; http://toysoldierchest.blogspot.com/2014/02/soviet-t-70m-zis-3-wcrew-miniart-135.html
  25. Just finished this project few days ago. Building process here http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234941996-mig-3-trumpeter-148/ . This model from Trumpeter is really nice. A bit scratch parts plus photoetched from Eduard. Hope you like it
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