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  1. SU-76M Self-Propelled Gun with Crew 1:35 MiniArt The SU-76 was one of the most widely used AFVs of WWII by the Russians, and was based upon an enlarged version of the T-70 Light Tank chassis, adding width and an extra roadwheel to the length of the vehicle. Although the T-70 wasn't particularly effective or well liked, this much changed and improved development of its basic running gear was, because of its simple agricultural design, which made it easy to maintain, and forgiving in combat conditions. Initial problems with the drive-train were soon cured, and the SU-76M was the result, with the armoured roof of the casemate removed for ease of service and repair of the 76.2mm ZiS-3 gun. Production went on to reach almost 14,000 units before war's end, and although production of the SU-76 ceased, a further development continued production in the form of the ZSU-37, the first dedicated anti-aircraft tank in Soviet service. The Kit MiniArt are a growing force within the AFV world, and have a good reputation for their diorama bases and figure sets. Their toolings are more traditional in style, but an element of slide-moulding is starting to creep in, making for better detail on the parts. The kit arrives in a top opening grey box with a vignette painting of an SU-76M on grassy terrain. Inside are five sprues of mid-grey styrene, a single hull "tub", 16 sprue ladders of track links, a tiny sprue of clear parts, and a simple decal sheet printed by Begemot. The instruction booklet is printed in black and white on good stock, while the colour and decaling sheet is printed in full colour, and includes painting call-outs for the included figures. The first thing that is immediately apparent is that the hull of this tank is rather small. One of its nicknames was "bare a**ed Ferdinand", which referred to its similar layout but diminutive size when compared to the giant German design. The tub struggles to make 5" in length, but detail on the outer hull is good, with rivets, panel lines and raised detail in good supply. There is also detail inside the hull toward the rear where it will be visible due to its open top. Whether you will need to remove the large injection moulding lump that sits in the middle of the hull bottom is questionable, especially as there is a panel placed between it and the viewer during later construction. Unusually for a tank, the gun and its support-work are first to be built up, and there are plenty of parts to make this a well detailed section of the model. The barrel is supplied in two halves, so the more aftermarket conscious amongst us might want to source a replacement, but with some careful seam-work, the kit part should suffice, particularly as it has a 2-piece flash-hider that is added after the barrel is pushed through the mantlet, giving the impression of a hollow barrel. Careful assembly and judicious use of glue should permit you to retain the ability to traverse and raise the barrel, which is of use to retain until you have chosen the final position of the gun, at which time it can be fixed by freezing the pivot points with liquid glue. Once the gun is completed, the chassis makes an appearance, and each side takes six keyed suspension arms, onto which a roadwheel is glued. A triplet of return rollers fix further up the side of the hull on axles, and the idler wheel attaches at the very rear of the vehicle, almost as an afterthought trailing behind. The drive sprockets are mounted to the front on their final drive housings, the edge of which stand proud of the glacis plate once complete. The front of the chassis is boxed in with armour plate at this stage, and various shackles and detail parts are added to the forward and aft bulkheads. There are two hatches on the glacis plate, one for access to the gearbox and the other for the driver, which has a domed armoured surface that has a nice cast texture moulded in. The tracks are separate links that are provided on ladder-like sprues with only small stubs of sprue between each link and no outer runners. Detail is excellent throughout, and they should clip together with no glue, which is backed up by a symbol in the instruction. Each link has three sprue gates sensibly placed, and no ejector pin marks – these have been cleverly left on the sprue stubs between each link. Clean-up and construction of each track of 92 links should proceed relatively quickly as a result of these positives, and there are 8 links spare in case of broken pins. The slide-moulded fenders are then mounted with five bracing brackets on each side, along with some small details and stowage areas. A driving light is placed on the port fender, which has a clear lens piece, so the rear of the part will need painting silver to represent the reflector. On the rear of the starboard fender is a large box containing the radiator and the twin exhaust pipes. The open face of the radiator has moulded baffles that expand the surface area, which are neatly moulded, and the exhausts are made up from two halves with an exhaust pipe stub which will need drilling out to add a little realism. The upper hull is then covered with pioneer tools, while the fenders receive more stowage boxes, and the towing cable is bend into a C-shape for mounting on the glacis plate. My sample had already sheared where the two cooling wavefronts of styrene had met and cooled too quickly to mix, so the single-piece rope would be of no use. However, MiniArt have sensibly included an extra pair of towing eyes without rope moulded to them in case you want to make your own. As usual with my armour builds, I will be using a length of RB Models braided cable, because nothing looks quite like braided cable other than braided cable! At this stage the gun is installed onto a hub moulded into the rear of the top deck, and secured in place from the underside with a pin, which will take some very careful gluing to retain the ability to traverse. A basic floor piece is added, which has some treadplate detail moulded in, plus the aforementioned doors into the inner hull that blank off the moulding pip on the lower hull. A series of parts then build up into the rest of the cladding of the fighting compartment, blocking off the view into the rest of the chassis. Five palettes of shells are built up for the interior, containing a mixture of blunt nosed shells and more pointed armour piercing in each. These are sited around the crew compartment, making for a very loud bang indeed if it received a direct hit. The casemate is next to be built up, and is constructed from three individual sides, each of which is detailed up before installation. Painting the interior in stages is likely to be a necessity with this kit due to its open top and close confines. Fortunately, the casemate panels all meet the hull at an angle, so could be installed completely painted onto the model. A rear bulkhead is then added with a small door that simply eases the step over the back of the hull. Corner stiffener plates are added to the casemate, an aerial onto the starboard side, and safety "roll-cage" to the rear. Curiously, the exhaust pipes from the engine to the mufflers/silencers are almost the last parts to be added, disappearing into an angular box on the top of the hull. A set of five crew figures are included with this kit as a bonus item, and they are contained on the fifth sprue. There are three figures holding shells, one appearing to lean forward to operate the sighting mechanism of the gun, while the final figure would be the commander figure, who is looking through a pair of binoculars. The commander and one shell carrier are wearing heavy greatcoats, while the remaining three wear quilted Soviet tankers uniform. All the figures are wearing the protective leather helmets used by soviet tank crew, which are separate parts on the sprue. The figures are nicely moulded and the greatcoat wearers have separate lowers to their coats, to give a more realistic appearance to them. Some of the crew have separate hands where appropriate, while all have separate arms and legs. The legs are moulded separately and joined at the crotch to give better detail to the inseam area, and all the heads are separate parts. Some small personal items are included for the figures' belts, and eight shells are provided for the chaps to hold (the set is also sold separately as a figure set). The decals are printed by Begemot as mentioned earlier, and have a creamy tint to the white lettering. That shouldn't really notice on the dark background, but should in fact help them not to look too stark. Surprisingly from such a small sheet you can build one of five vehicles, which share the same Russian Green scheme, which is of course no surprise. SPG Artillery Division 11th Guard Army, Eastern Prussia, 1944 Unknown Slef-Propelled Regiment, Eastern Prussia, 1945 1238th SPG Regiment, Poland, March 1945 1448th SPG Artillery Regiment, 9th Krasnodar Kozak Division, Poland, 1944 1223rd SPG Artillery Regiment, 5th Guard Tank Army, 3rd Belorussian front, Vilnus, July 1944 Colour call-outs are provided from Vallejo, Testors, Tamiya, Humbrol, Revell and Mr Color. Colour names are also supplied, as well as a column of something unintelligible (to me) in Cyrillic. The same table applies to the crew figures who are surrounded by a cloud of arrows and legends. Conclusion A detailed kit of this diminutive but powerful Self-Propelled Gun, which grew from a mediocre lineage to become an important tank during WWII. The inclusion of five crew figures and individual workable track links makes it a very generous package, and should appeal to many. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  2. Hey, I was looking at the Evolution Miniatures Modern Russian Soldier figures and started wondering how these were painted for the boxart. More specifically, the digital camouflage pattern. I found a couple of ideas on another thread but wanted to pick "the community mind" about alternatives. Source: http://www.evolution-miniatures.com/ Source: http://www.evolution-miniatures.com/ Does anyone happen to know who painted these figures and what method was used? I also contacted Evolution directly in case they would care to share the method. Many thanks in advance! Cristian
  3. My friend sent me pic's of a kit he picked up at a flea market. Anyone recognize it?
  4. Hi, Yet another newbie question Can somebody please point me to a place where I can find more information about the name, size and construction of this antenna type used by the Russian Navy, as shown below? I would like to scratch built it for my next project. In case you have more information about how to build it, that would be even more helpful. Thanks! Cristian
  5. T-90 1/35, Meng with Masterclub tracks
  6. A wee bit of topic, but hopefully off interest 'The City Where Russia Cannot Hide Its warships' The ship spotters of Istanbul have become a key resource for diplomats and intelligence experts, alerting the world to the scale of Russia's campaign in Syria. BBC News Magazine (linky)
  7. Evening Guys Am really taken by the resin figures from the manufacturer 'Tank'. Does anyone know of a UK supplier? Thanks Andrew
  8. Today I've had some help from a friend - Stew Dapple has been the first person to sample our brand new, up to date and fully corrected WW2 Russian / VVS colours, meaning that the old WEM ACS range based on Eric Pilawskii's book is consigned to the past. The new Sovereign Hobbies Colourcoats ACS range is based on the latest understanding of the Russian colours and we trust our customers will be very pleased with them. The revamped Russian colours bring the camouflage range to: ACS01 - A.11 Blue ACS02 - AMT7 Blue ACS03 - A.11 Green ACS04 - A.11 / AMT Black ACS08 - AMT4 Olive Green ACS11 - AMT11 Blue Grey ACS12 - AMT12 Dark Grey ACS14 - AE9 Grey ACS15 - A.11 Light Brown ACS17 - 4BO Army Green ACS19 - MK7 White ACS20 - Yellow Grey ACS21 - A14 Steel Grey ACS22 - K.11 KR Red BUT WAIT! THAT'S NOT ALL! We have also revised our Japanese colour ACJ16 - the ash-grey shade used on Mitsubishi built A6M2 Zekes (Zeros). This has been matched to the research of Nick Millman, probably the most respected authority on Japanese WW2 colours in the world. ACJ16 - Mitsubishi Zero Grey-Green
  9. So after lurking on the forums for a while looking at everyones work I thought I should contribute with an attempt of my own. Normally I'm a fan of things with propellers on them but when I was a kid there was one jet that I loved and that was the Mig-25 Foxbat. So when I saw that AMK were going to be releasing one I made the error of looking at the Mig-31 As they say a fool and his money are easily parted..... Sooo. I'm hoping you guys will give me some hints along the way as this is a new subject area for me and I will be needing guidance, not least with photo etch which I optimistically purchased. Any feedback will be appreciated. In case I forget I'm a very slow builder
  10. Hi folks, Well, it's a matter of some embarrassment that having been a member of this great forum for nearly a year now, and I've only managed one WIP thread. Truth is, I've not actually built much during this period, mainly due to a lack of spare time! Further, even those few things I have managed to put together have been pretty ordinary by the standards being shown on here by others, so I guess you could say I've spared you! So, in thinking about what I could contribute, I've been trawling my stash looking for a not-too-complicated (for my benefit), but unusual (for yours) subject. In this particular model I believe I have something. Having made extensive use of the forum search facility, I have found no other references to this particular aircraft! Please, please, don't now tell me that there is but I missed it! OK, so the traditional opening pics, external box-art, sprueage, destructions etc. Box front: The rear of the box shows the available options for livery/insignia/markings, including 2 Russian, one Belgian, one Swiss: From a modest bit of research it transpires that one could, with appropriate third-party decals, also add French, British, Spanish and indeed German to those options. Finally, given the aircraft's civilian, pre-WW1 origins, a completely insignia-free option would be entirely feasible. For me, I am going for the option as depicted on the box front: the mount of Captain Pjotr Nesterov of the Imperial Russian Air Service. Nesterov distinguished himself, in the days before aircraft with mounted weapons, when in August 1914 he became the first airman to bring down an enemy aircraft - by ramming it. Sadly this encounter proved to be his own undoing, as he and the 2 occupants of the German aircraft he rammed, crashed to earth and died from the resulting injuries. The parts inventory is fairly compact - one sprue: As seems to be typical for AZmodel, the instructions and parts list diagram are brief! It appears, from the instructions and indeed the parts supplied, that it is possible to make a Type G or a Type H as is one's fancy. For me, it's got to be 'G'! I am hoping to add as much detail as I can to an out-of-the-box build, but it will of course be within the confines of my own limited abilities, so it's not likely to be much. So that's where I will leave it for now. Hopefully this will be of modest interest to someone in the days/weeks/months/millennia to come!
  11. Dear Colleagues I recently got hold of the new Zvezda 1/35 GAZ M-1 staff car. Does anyone know or have any evidence if any of them were ever painted camouflage green? I believe the standard cars were usually black. As they were taken up by officers and driven to the front might some of them been given a green camo job? Looking at wartime photos I really cannot tell. Thanks for any advice Andrew
  12. Hi, I built this for the NATO GB so thought I'd post it in the RFI WIP is HERE if you are interested Hope you like her Cheers
  13. WW2 Russian Field Weapons & Equipment Helion Company Data File It’s surprising how much equipment the Soviet forces had during WWII and this book brings them into sharp detail. Most people know about the sheer numbers of tanks and men involved in the Great Patriotic War, but there as so many other pieces of equipment used by the soldiers in the field. Much like the book on German Field Equipment reviewed HERE, this book combines interesting facts alongside the very nicely rendered 3D drawings of each piece of kit. I’m sure that not every piece of equipment used is in this book, but there is an awful lot that is. Every from pistols, weapons case, rifles, and sniper rifles, machine guns right the way up to the big guns and tanks. All the drawings on the one hundred and fifty three pages are in full colour giving the modeller good research material for their models and dioramas. Whilst there are the familiar pieces of kit shown, there are also quite a few unusual pieces that I certainly didn’t know about, such as the concrete tanks and the various mobile pill boxes. The In Enemy Hands section is interesting in that it shows what modifications the Germans carried out to their captured Soviet equipment, usually involving the venerable T-34. Conclusion This is another great and very interesting book. Not only are the rendering superb, but the information they and the notes provide will prove very useful to the modeller who wants to get everything just right. Review sample courtesy of
  14. I cant find the thread on modern Russian equipment since the change over ??Did we lose it ??
  15. T-18 Light Tank Model 1927 "But Comrade, you told me to paint it, not to clean it" * This is the newly released T-18 from Hobbyboss. It's a nice kit, albeit with a few inaccuracies and a few simplified parts. It was originally going to be a quick out of the box build, but somewhere along the way it acquired a base, some figures, and somehow became an allegory on communist Russia in the '30's. The base is a vacform one from MiniArt, and the two figures are from Evolution Miniatures. The full build can be found here * Dio name courtesy of Andy, aka Sgt. Squarehead Thanks for looking Andy
  16. 1/144 Ilyushin IL-96T Aeroflot Russian Airlines RA-96101 The IL-96T is freighter version of the IL-96-400 with Pratt and Whitney Engines rather than the Aviadvigatel. The kit is by Eastern Express and is based on the IL-96M. The aeroflot colours and Pratt and Whitney engines were short lived, the airframe now operates for Polet Flight. the new and the old (below)
  17. G`day Gals and Lads: Su-27 1/48 Hobbyboss Begemot decals, Dream Model pitot tube, QuickBoost seat and LittleCars landing gear lights. Vallejo and Akan paints. I hope you like it. C&C welcome. Adrian
  18. T-15 Armata Object 149 1:35 Panda First seen at the 2015 Moscow Victory Day Parade, with some of its detail shrouded for secrecy, the Armata range of vehicles have now emerged from the shadows, although some aspects of their performance are necessarily unclear at this time. It is based upon the Armata chassis that is to be a common base for Russian armour, which simplifies maintenance, spares and familiarity of the crew, as well as saving on development costs. It does however differ from the norm in that it has its engine mounted in the front unlike the T-14 MBT, to provide extra protection for the crew and passengers. The Epoch turret is remotely operated and loaded, which reduces the vehicle's height, as the crew are salted away in an armoured compartment in the forward hull. They are connected electronically to the auto-loading 30mm cannon, sighting equipment and even a pair of Kornet anti-tank missiles on each side of the turret. It is in early service, so likely to undergo many changes before it reaches the definitive variant, but it is expected to replace the existing stock of Heavy Infantry Fighting Vehicles (HIFV) such as the BMP-2 in due course. The Kit This landed on my doormat a couple of days ago and was unexpected, as I hadn't heard of it until now (or forgot, as is likely). It is a new tooling by KittyHawk's sister company, and arrives in white themed box with a painting of a T-15 firing its cannon at an unseen adversary. Inside the initial impression looks a bit cheap and nasty due firstly to the low quality bags that have been used to protect the sprues. They are so thin as to be a waste of time, and a large proportion aren't sealed either. Secondly, the colour of styrene used gives the parts a toy-like appearance, but if you look past this, the parts are of good quality. With that out of the way, there are eight sprues of track links in brown styrene, two large hull halves and seven sprues in that olive green styrene, a clear sprue, a sheet of Photo-Etch (PE) parts, decals, a length of braided copper wire, an instruction booklet, plus a colour print of the boxtop artwork on the opposite side of the paint and markings guide, which is in full colour. The hull is big at 25cm long (almost 10"), and both parts are still attached to a moulding runner that needs removing before you can test fit them together (I did that, as you can/can't see from the photos). There is no introductory information about the vehicle at the front of the booklet, but it dives straight into the build, beginning with the wheels. Fourteen pairs of roads wheels are made up with a styrene sleeve inside giving the potential for moving wheels if you are VERY careful with the glue. You are advised to add the swing-arm stub axle at this point, which might make painting tricky, but that's up to you. The idler wheels build up in the same way, but have no rubber tyres, and the drive sprockets are three parts with no sleeve inside. The lower hull is decorated with various suspension related parts, including the return rollers, which are placed at irregular intervals with four per side. The keyed axle ends are inserted into matching holes in the sides of the hull, and the drive sprocket has a final drive housing installed before it is inserted at the front of the hull. A tow rope is built up from a length of the copper wire, with styrene eyes at each end, and two clips holding it in place, which is shown in a scrap diagram to help you get the right shape. The tracks are individual link as already hinted at, and you'll be pleased to hear that there are no ejector pins to deal with on any of the parts. They are quite complex and time-consuming to build though, but you have a long jig on the sprues to help you in this respect. The twin track pads are first attached to the links, with a hollow guide horn added after. The track-pads fit too snugly in their depressions on the links, but will press down level with the addition of glue, links are quite weak around their centre pivot-point, which the glue used in adding the horns weakens further before they have set up, so take care. The jig part is also quite narrow and light, so moves around under the links when putting them together, so taping it down at the ends might be an idea. While the links are weakened by the glue, take additional care to keep them straight, as any curvature will cause problems when it comes to attaching them together in runs of 95 links per side. There are two sprue gates per link, two per track pad pair, and another for the horn, so you'll be quite busy tidying up before assembly. More liquid glue will be needed to attach the links together, so again be careful with the quantity used as you don't really want to glue them to the jig! I would consider joining the majority of links without their horns, and adding them once joined, at which point it will be easier to line them up so they don't end up looking like they need braces, and they will be straighter. Don't be fooled by the slight curve on the link inner edges though – they are supposed to be like that as you might be able to see on the sprue shot if you look closely. Attention then shifts to the upper hull, which is detailed with clear vision blocks, vents, light clusters and copious stowage, including some nicely moulded tubular framed baskets at the rear of the sponsons. Spare track links, crew hatches with more vision blocks, chaff & flare boxes on the rear with PE shrouds and some dinky little PE tie-down handles are added, plus some larger smoke grenade launchers , sensors and boxes at the mid-point of the hull. PE grilles cover the engine compartment louvers, and a PE grate is inserted into the exhaust outlet at the front of each sponson, resulting in a busy deck. Although I would mount the deck early in the build it is shown being attached after the detail is added, but that's instructions for you. The sideskirts with their ERA blocks and supports are added next, as is the rear hatch that has a small section of stand-off slat armour, nicely moulded in styrene, applied to protect the door from damage. The hull has a sloped "nose cone" that contains a number of shaped ERA blocks top and bottom, plus attachment points for a mine-roller or self-entrenching tool. Some of the mechanism for this is attached lower on the hull in readiness. The turret is a modest size due to the fact that it is bereft of crew, and it builds up from two main halves split top and bottom, to which the details are added such as antennae, grilles, the twin Kornet launchers on the sides, both of which have PE shrouds, and of course the main 30mm cannon, which in this case just glues in place in a fixed position pointing straight forward. If you wanted to elevate it, you'll need to do some research and adjust the kit parts to suit. The various optical sensors are mounted in boxes on the top of the turret, but don't have any clear lenses, so you will have to fake it with paint effects using your references. The finished turret just drops into place on the hull, so remember that when you're handling it. Markings As it's early days for the T-15, only the display scheme that was used for the May Day parade has been included in the box, resulting in a small sheet with only two decals, which are the new stylised design with a red outlined star over a striped yellow and black ribbon. The vehicle is painted a dull green with colour call outs given in Gunze Sangyo shades. Registration is a little out, and you can see this most prominently at the diagonal ends of the ribbon, but because you can cut that neatly, it's not a major problem. The sharpness is sub-optimal, but won't worry the casual observer, especially if you are applying any weathering. Colour density is affected where the white under-printing is missing right at the ends, but cut that off and it won't be seen. Conclusion The model itself is quite well moulded with some good detail, but the complex, weak tracks and relatively simple decals let it down a bit. The fact that you also can't raise or lower the gun is also a little disappointing for anyone wishing to add some variety to the finish. Recommended. Review sample courtesy of and available soon from major hobby shops
  19. So I've been rather tied up recently with a number of things including exams, coursework and fencing, but I've managed to get a bit of time to myself- I've done some more work on the B52 but fancied giving armour a go, so I give you my first ever 1/35 build! It's the Tamiya T-72M1 in Soviet colours- generally a great kit, not really got any complaints and hope to do more 1/35 in the future. Painted with Army Painter colours (fancied giving them a go) and weathered with Citadel acrylic washes and humbrol powders. (also pictured with a Russian hat I bought in Berlin about a month ago) Hope its not too bad for a first effort! -Flash
  20. Hello again! I'd like to show you my latest build - T-90A. As usual first of all, few words about the kit and the process. That was my first try for Meng kit and I'm absolutely in love. The details are amazing, instructions straight forward (few flaws maybe) and fit of the kit is nice. The only thing I didn't like is lack of paint schemes. Kit gives you choice of 5 different variant, but four of them are parade ones. I went for the only one that wasn't clean and easy - Russian Motorised Brigade from North Caucasus. I love the tracks. They seem to be complicated, but after few made they turned out to be an easy and rewarding job. There was a bit of a challenge to do the camouflage. I used white tack to mask. It was a real surprise when I put second colour, which according to the instructions - should be Vallejo Duck Egg Green. It turned out to be totally different from the printed one - quite pale green as you notice. I've managed to find a real photo in similiar colours, more yellowish, but I guess that it might be something wrong with the photograph, then I just thought to myself, that kit is branded my Gur Khan, so I guess he knows what the real colour should be and wouldn't be happy if Meng will put wrong paint reference in the kit. After this, there was the usual - glossy coat, wash, streaking, rusting and scratching, then matt coat and dust. For the tracks, I painted them Vallejo's Gun Metal and washed it with AK's Rust streaking. Then dust it with Mig pigments. Enjoy: Thanks for your attention:) Now working on something flying again. See you soon!
  21. Just to show that I'm not just someone who prattles on endlessly about aeroplanes and models, but someone who actually, occasionally completes models, for your pleasure are some piccies of an Il-2 Shturmovik I had made for a magazine article a few years back (sadly, the article was never published). This is, as the title would suggest, the single-seater version of the Il-2 Shturmovik as realised by Hobby Boss in 1/32nd scale. The kit itself is very nicely moulded, with no flash, and has nice engraved detail. There were some errors that had to be corrected, mainly amongst them the metal rear fuselage, which was rare with the single-seaters (and unknown for the GPW two-seaters). To fix this I sanded down the fuselage until the panel lines and rivets disappeared. Alternately, you could fill in the engraved detail on the rear fuselage with putty, then sand it down. The shape and dimensions all appear to be dead-on, and with a little work, this can be made into a fine representation of the Il-2. At the time I was making this model, Eduard had just come out with their interior and exterior sets, so most of the additions to the interior were scratchbuilt. The basic engine is provided, and is accurate, but without many of the accessories and pipes and wiring, which had to be scratchbuilt. I go into more detail about this kit in my soon-to-be published book (due to be released in January, hopefully), so I'll just post the pictures and let them do the talking. A picture is worth a thousand words, etc. Enjoy! Best Regards, Jason P.S. The name of the book is "Il-2 Shturmovik: Red Avenger". Look for it in all fine (and not so fine) bookstores and outlets! Sure to be a classic!
  22. BTR-60PB Upgraded Trumpeter 1/35 I thought it was about time I got a new year project started and, since this has been sitting in the stash for over a year, I thought I should get it done. I actually picked it up at the time, simply to use a couple of the decals that came with it on my Akatsiya build, to enable me to put a rather obscure reference on the model that, to this day, nobody has ever noticed. Yes, I am that sad. Fortunately, I love these big 8 wheel APCs so I knew I'd build it eventually and now seems as good a time as any. Not much progress so far. Just a few brackets and suspension mounts on the lower hull The kit comes with a full interior but, even with all the hatches open, you can't see that much, so I'll be leaving the internal details out and building it with everything buttoned up. I did think about getting some weighted resin wheels but decided against it. I want this to be a simple, out the box build to ease into the year. I'll probably try the screw through the bottom of the tyre method to give them a bit of a pressure bulge. The only slight mod I'll be doing is to put some turn on the front wheels which will require a bit of modification to the wheel mounts, but doesn't look to daunting. At least the two hull halves are a good fit, which isn't always the case with moulded sections of this size More soon Andy
  23. BTR-60PB Upgraded Trumpeter 1/35 First finished model of 2016. It's a nice kit apart from the rather fiddly headlights, which put up a bit of a fight. I've had the kit hanging around for over a year so I'm glad to finally get it built. I've got a long term plan to build a collection of some of the various 8 wheeled APCs and related vehicles that operate around the world, so this makes a good start to that collection. The wip is here Thanks for looking Andy
  24. Having only built one kit last year, due to major back problems and the onset of depression I was determined to build more this year. Well, here's the first build, the Hobbyboss Russian T-28 medium tank. I still have some weathering to do, once I've decided what base she is to go on, but it certainly helped get some of my mojo back. I did use Friulmodel tracks, as didn't like th ekit links.
  25. Happy new year to all! So, I've already completed my first build of the year! Well, technically I completed it about 2 days ago. And I've been building it since September. And it's 1/72 Airfix MiG-15 consisting of about 7 parts, so not exactly a speed-build record... I've been building it for a group build on another forum. I haven't shelved the Lancaster, 727 or Gnats, I'm just very busy at the mo doing uni work around actual work, so i just chucked this little kit together to keep the mojo going. It's an excellent kit, the fit is superb, not a touch of filler has gone near this model. People will criticise this model for the trench-like panel lines, basic detailing and odd dimensions, and this is all entirely justifiable, but I'm sure no one can deny the enjoyment and fun of this kit. On with the pics: Kit manufacture: Airfix Scale: 1/72 Type: MiG-15 Extras used: Brass tubes for the guns, tape for the belts. Paints and colours used: Tamiya light blue for the cockpit and wheel wells, Tamiya flat red for the red bits, Model Master Aluminium buffable for the main colour over Vallejo poly-primer, MM Stainless steel buffable for the air-brakes, Flory Grime Wash, Tamiya smoke post-shading, Xtracylix satin varnish, water-based oils for streaking. The only things I changed were the gun barrels to brass tubes, simply because I kept snapping the plastic parts, and I didn't fit the activators on the air brakes because I couldn't see how they fitted. So, there you go, thanks for looking, happy new year, and I hope your hangovers are as big as mine is!! Val
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