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Found 6 results

  1. I've been asked to provide my recent Tamiya Lacquer mixes for RLM colors. I posted them around in various threads but they were very hard to find, so instead I've made a compilation. It is partially a repost of a reference thread I did for FW190 group build, but with more complete set of mixes. In this thread I am using the colors from Luftwaffe Camouflage and Markings, 1933-1945, Volume 1 and 2 (those books) https://www.scalemates.com/books/luftwaffe-camouflage-and-markings-1933-1945-volume-1-classic-colours-luftwaffe-camouflage-and-markings-vol1-k-a-merrick-juergen-kiroff--102687 https://www.scalemates.com/books/luftwaffe-camouflage-and-markings-1933-1945-volume-2-classic-colours-luftwaffe-camouflage-and-markings-vol2-ka-merrick-juergen-kiroff--102688 I find those inserts from those 2 books (2 inserts out of total 5) to be the ones covering most of interesting colors references. If you need any other insert scanned, let me know. Those are thumbnails to save the bandwitdh, but if you want a higher resolution it is here: Luftwaffe Camouflage and Markings 1933-1945 Vol 1 Insert 3.jpg Luftwaffe Camouflage and Markings 1933-1945 Vol 2 Insert 1.jpg Additionally, here are readouts that are made using spectrophotometer, they provide much more real colors than the scan above so you might want to use them as a digital reference. They don't look so cool though. RGB values in the table below are representing D65/10deg settings conversion while real sRGB should use D65/2 deg. For each mix I provided paint name, its gloss level (Gloss Units, abbreviated GU, smaller number means more flat, higher means more glossy paint. Mirror like are usually 90+, dead flat is <5. This is 60 degree measurement of gloss level, if you need three angle measurements, PM me) Gloss level is very important. For example - Tamiya Lacquers are almost mirror like and if you make mixes without covering the layer with matt varnish, your visual perception of the color will be "this mix is way too dark". Tamiya Acrylics are from XF range which makes them dead flat, Liquitex are medium satin and Golden Fluid Acrylics are pure concentrated pigments so their gloss level depends on natural pigment finish - it is different per each paint. I've also provided an expected color difference DE00 values for each mix under daylight condition. Now, for the actual mixes: those two paint lines are calculated using volume ratios Tamiya Acrylics Tamiya Lacquers Those two paint lines below are much thicker, and because it is hard to get volume measurements of it, the mixes ratios are calculated by mass, so you need scales. Do not try mixing them by volume, Carbon Black is for example much less dense than Titanium White. Golden Fluid Acrylics Liquitex Basic Fluid I hope that's helpful!
  2. I never saw a conversion chart for RLM/Revell colours, so I´m publishing one I made in 2015 with hopes of helping those who also paint with Revell. It can be used both with the acrylics and the enamels. The most recent colour added was 361 Satin Olive Green. RLM 01 (Silver) Revell Metallic 90 (Silver). RLM 02 (Grey) Revell Matt 45 (Light Olive). RLM 04 (Yellow) Revell Matt 15 (Yellow). RLM 21 (White) Revell Matt 05 (White). RLM 22 (Black) Revell Matt 08 (Black). RLM 23 (Red) Revell Matt 36 (Carmine Red). RLM 24 (Blue) Revell Matt 56 (Blue). RLM 25 (Light Green) Revell Matt 48 (Sea Green). RLM 65 (Light Blue) Revell Matt 49 (Light Blue). RLM 66 (Dark Grey) Revell Matt 77 (Dust Grey). RLM 70 (Black Green) Revell Matt 40 (Black Green). RLM 71 (Dark Green) Revell Matt 39 (Dark Green). RLM 72 (Green) Revell Matt 39 + Revell Matt 15. RLM 73 (Green) Revell Matt 47 + Revell Matt 45. RLM 74 (Green Grey) Revell Matt 69 (Granite Grey). RLM 75 (Violet Grey) Revell Matt 47 (Mouse Grey). RLM 76 (Light Blue Grey) Revell Matt 49 (90%) + Revell Matt 05 (10%). RLM 77 (Light Grey) Revell Matt 77 (Light Grey). RLM 78 (Light Blue) Revell Matt 49 (Light Blue). RLM 79 (Sand Yellow) Revell Matt 17 (Sand Brown). RLM 80 (Olive Green) Revell Satin 361 (Olive Green). RLM 81 (Brown Violet) Revell Matt 46 (NATO Olive). RLM 82 (Light Green) Revell Matt 65 (Bronze Green). RLM 83 (Dark Green) Revell Matt 68 (RAF Green). RLM 84 (Green Blue) Revell Matt 59 (Duck Egg Blue/RAF Sky).
  3. Hello Here I just want to talk about late WWII aircraft. So from around 1943 and mainly German aircraft. In Japan it was analog, but because of the completely different industrial network, it should be considered separately. So Germans: Now that the painting and the color scheme are recurring themes, I want to give each of you a few basic ideas to take along. From 1943, continuous delivery from all industries across Europe began to become unreliable. This resulted in bottlenecks that had to be bridged. It doesn't matter whether it's colors, spare parts such as oars, or whatever. At the same time, new findings from the research centers and test centers were constantly emerging. The fighter pilots tried to implement these findings as quickly as possible. Sometimes there were guidelines from the RLM, sometimes it was just word of mouth. That's just such a consideration. And now imagine that you are a pilot in a fighter squadron. This is how you will try to make your aircraft the best it can be. You want to survive! That's how it is, imagine a car rally. You want to win. Because of this, you will use every opportunity available to you. Your aircraft will not always come back safely from the individual missions. There will be enough holes, scratches, or whatever. The weather will also play a powerful role. For example, a hailstorm before take-off or a flight through such a cloud. Well, on the other hand, you have pictures, photos of an aircraft. That is a point in time. Nobody can tell you what the plane looked like before or after based on that. Written and pictorial documents are rare. Very few can fall back on the stories told by operational pilots from back then. I am very suspicious of what many great new books claim to know. I have bought many expensive books myself. The only thing that's true about it are the pictures. The text for this is often quite correct, but rarely correct. Often just fictitious or well composed. You, the model maker, ask what can I orientate myself on? About pictures, photos and your own common sense. To do this, it is very important to understand the actions of the people back then in this environment. I learned a lot from stories. This is my treasure chest. I can share this with you all. The exact decision what and how is up to each of you. Example please: landing site in XY, somewhere in Europe. Well, then take a look at Google Earth to find out where that is. Look whether the basic botany there is green or brown in summer. Then you will understand for yourself whether he had a brown or green RLM from the 80s on the plane. This alone leaves many questions superfluous. The completely analogous also applies to all tank model builders. Where were the battlefields and the time of year. What were the rules and what were generally available materials. Talking smart enough. But a few small impulses to come to a coherent model. Happy modelling
  4. For the Luftwaffe experten, I would be grateful for thoughts on which paint manufacturers offer the best representation of the following: RLM 81 RLM 74/75 I mostly use Xtracolor, but the 81 they offer looks too green to be Braunviolett (I know there are variations). Meanwhile the 74 and 75 appear too close in hue and offer much less contrast than is apparent on period photos. I recently had a go with a couple of random other greys, which gave (I felt) a better result (as shown here - NB it's not finished yet!). I would be very grateful for advice or recommendations.
  5. planecrazee

    RLM 72/73

    Hi folks, Quick question to tap into your vast wealth of knowledge. I'm currently at the point where I'm going to start getting some paint on my BV222 for the Flying Boat GB (cutting it fine I know) but the Revell instructions refer to the two tone camo as being RLM 72 &73 rather than the usual 70 & 71. However, looking into 72 & 73 I'm having trouble trying to decipher what shades these should be and which manufacturer might have the best paint colour match. Revell would have you mix paints to create these colours but I'm trying to avoid mixing as much as possible as I'll need a fair amount of paint and don't want to be in a situation where I run out and then can't make the exact shade again. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Kris
  6. Hey all Just thought I would add some more fuel to the ever burning fire of the dreaded RLM colors. So far I've been using Model Master Acrylics for my RLM camouflage and they have served me well, aside from a few things. I've recently started using Vallejo acrylics and I am quite impressed, so much so that I am replacing my current stock of Tamiya and Model Master with Vallejo as they get used up. Time to cut to the chase. Vallejo's RLM equivalents are - to quote the 101st Airborne - "NUTS!" At least in my opinion. Has anyone come up with some decent matches to RLM in either the Model Air or the Model Color lines? At the very least I need matches for 72 and 73 I have the Revell 1/72 Bv 222, Fw 200 and Ju 290 all of which have the same 72/73/65 camouflage scheme... so I'm gonna need a lot of paint! As always, any help is greatly appreciated KHood
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