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  1. dov


    Eyelet I will now explain how to do the one-end turnbuckles or eyelets. We need these parts for every rigging point in WW1 modelling. · As prime material, we need copper wire of 0.1mm. This wire you may get from AliExpress https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20181117000435&SearchText=welding+wire+copper+0.1 · as soldering wire. You may get 200m on a spool. On the other hand, more expensive from Aber, in small quantities. · As second, you need a steel wire of 0.2mm to make a handsome hook out of it. Each limb of about 30mm long. · You need a strong fastener, to fix than the copper wire. How to start? 1. Take about 30mm of copper wire. Make a hook. But the steel wire hook under the copper wire hook, so you hold both limbs with the steel with the right hand and both limbs of copper wire with the left hand. Now turn maybe three times. 2. Put now your strong fastener on both limbs of the copper wire and turn some turns. Take it off, move the fastener forward to the steel hook, and stop about 3mm from it. Make some turns until the copper wire fit against each other. 3. If the fastener is too strong, or too sharp edged, he will cut your copper wire. So change it or alter it. 4. The eyelet is than finished. 5. Each hole you need is 0.3mm or maximum 0.4mm. Not more. 6. The function of these eyelet is approximately the same as dowel. The CA and the form of the eyelet prevent it from loosening. Cut it in proper length, so that after gluing only the lug can be seen. To drill: Each hole you need is 0.3mm or maximum 0.4mm. With the Tamiya pivot shaft drills, you have access to every point on the a/c and it prevents you for handling with too much force. https://de.aliexpress.com/item/Tamiya-74113-74114-74115-74116-Fine-Pivot-Drill-Bit-0-2mm-0-3mm-0-4mm-0/32678830579.html Happy modelling
  2. Hi all, This is my first ship model, a 1:350 scale HMS King George V. I've pretty much finished now but I'm not quite sure how to start the rigging. I've bought this infinity models lycra thread (linked at the bottom) but I'm not quite sure how to attach them Any tips would be appreciated. Cheers Luke https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/product/1-350-1-200-145ft-black-ship-rigging-medium-infini-model-ir-1101b?gclid=CjwKCAjw_sn8BRBrEiwAnUGJDjVAK61iW5KADrvvSen7vrTHArxa9Cec4ybUeSJOJppCC4Xnz_gP2hoCTMkQAvD_BwE) b
  3. The "Five-country flight" Etrich Taube of 1913 is now ready to take to the skies. Of undeniable organic inspiration, this graceful bird, clumsy as it may be, heralded the monoplane of the future. Almost all its structural strength came, one may state, from outside, in the form of frames, masts and rigging. A Greek philosopher (like Styrenedes) may have said that at the beginning of life structure also comes from outside as teaching and guidance, when in maturity that structure has been embodied, and it's now inside, as in modern planes. Philosophical disquisitions aside, this adorable dove, a universal symbol of peace, would soon become embroiled in less than pacific activities, to the shame of all. That's why I have chosen to represent it under its better light. Igo Etrich, its designer, was not German as some believe, his birthplace was located in what is today the Czech Republic, but was at some point under Austrian rule. The build started as a... how shall I put it... an extremely basic and old vacuform kit by Airframe, made by John Tarvin in Canada (consisting of the basic volumes and no accessories or decals). The construction process can be consulted here: Simple as they are, even old vacs can show their potential when you apply care and a little time. Some research was involved as usual, and the build was carried on trying to find the elusive balance between all the aspects involved: data available, the chosen kit, time dedicated, accuracy, etc. The build-saving decal sheet came from Arctic Decals, who delivered as usual great quality. May peace and understanding, humanity's Quixotic elusive dream, be found -sooner rather than later, before it's too late. Meanwhile, be the fragile, graceful, delicate, and inspiring outline of this bird, its symbol.
  4. Hi, I’m getting near the end of my Tamiya 1/350 Bismarck build and need some advice. I have used a photoetch set from Eduard but have 6 pairs of steps/stairs left over and no indication of where to place them, any ideas please? Also can anyone suggest good tutorials to watch on weathering and rigging, I’ve bought an AK weathering set and Infiniti fine (70 denier) rigging. My first attempt at rigging (the KGV) wasn’t great as I used some fishing line which was too thick and didn’t stretch. Would like to do better this time! Many thanks, Ewen
  5. Hi, my first posting on the ships forum. I got this little kit but beautifully formed, as an exercise in rigging for as yet to be made WW1 Wingnut Wings biplanes. Like everything else ignorance can be bliss until ignorance rears its ugly head and I found out some of the rigging was not worth the patience or the trials... My colour vision is not the greatest so I've relied on AK ship weathering to help put some Atlantic crossings on the ship. Problems with posting photos I'm happy with the ropes that controlled the derricks and the mast stays but when I tried to place the ropes that would have controlled the crane hook I just couldn't work behind the rigging that had been set up previously. Still some way to go but I think I've reached the peak and now on the way to completion.
  6. Well thanks for the comments on my little man - rear gunner . Been waiting for some sun and no winds to photograph outdoors but alas, Storm Ceira and previous rain put paid to that and now moving house under way wanted to get at least some photos of the completed???? model on the web site. You may remember my previous attempts to sort out the fixing of the upper wing to lower by cooking at gas mark 1/2 and all I ended up with the upper wing slumped forward and the straight struts as beautiful 'S' bends - if had wanted to do it I couldn't... It's a bit of a walk around... The radial engine before the fitters got on with the propellor And at this time I'd made two torpedo aiming sights form wire and the little bits I use for the rigging (Uschi the thinnest elastic, the little bag is in the a removal box somewhere) attachments. On one of its missions one of them got blown off together with the pitot tube! A very fine CD - "Best of the Rolling Stones 71-93" Tamiya Paints - I don't go along with you can't paint with them. My technique was mix up with Mr Color levelling at the time of use and use thin mixes. I think where the paint don't stick I think there's some grease. Anyway... I'd applied about 3 coats and sprayed with Tamiya rattle can varnish and the paint crazed. So burying my head in the sand ignored that and carried on. Then came the cooking fiasco. My remedy was try to over paint but it didn't really work and cut out the bent struts and make some more... In hindsight after making fixing and painting found a set of struts in the box that would have been used if I had gone along the wing hinging possibility of the kit. Well what doesn't kill ya makes ya stronger... Atlas watch out! Starboard side (the half baked side!) Starboard wing and rigging More rigging - For the Eagle eyed the pilots cockpit perspex windscreen didn't want to fit, so I used so I used a Hurricaine front screen. My little gunner - (sung to the tune of My Perfect Cousin - The Undertones) and rear rigging Which reminds me - the transfers weren't great and I lost the serial number ones so again the yellow roundels come form either a spitfire or Hurricaine kit. Rudder and tail plane. The rigging was too fine so i tried to beef them up with Tamiya Paints - it worked of sorts but the slightest touched bent the "wires" - remedied by cellulose thinners so the the Uschi line was allowed to spring back but after touching the wires 3 times and getting high on the cellulose fumes decided my lungs deserved better than the looks of the model. The vertical red and white and blue stripes on the fin also got washed away so had to remake from the other kits mentioned Port Rear view Port side Port Front And now I have just noticed the flattened tyres have been put on the square axles incorrectly! Oh well another Atlas moment From the front Port And finally top front Weathering The first major one was using the salt technique along the fuselage, ground sea salt on a water base dried and then a thin wash of a sandy colour. When dry I washed the salt away and then blended the resultant wash with more thinners - Liked the result and I am using it again on 1/700 liberty ship. Finer details used the Daler Rowney acrylic inks, Chipping Prisma Colour silver pencil Tamiya weathering powders? Review of my time with the kit For the main part enjoyed this kit but didn't like all the filling and sanding around the struts, very time consuming. Transfers I didn't enjoy. New house move, finish the Liberty Ship (really for practice at rigging) and then get onto F2b Wingnut Wings kit, which I've been striving to up my modelling skills to do it and me justice. Any comments gratefully received especially where improvements could have been made.
  7. dov


    Rigging As rigging material, I will promote today only these materials, which succeeded after two decades. All other materials I do not mention. As material I use today the product from Modelkasten. http://store.modelkasten.com/shopbrand/rigging/ https://hlj.com/search/go?w=modelkasten rigging&view=grid The 0.6 and 1.5 elastic rigging I use. Rigging has two faces. One is static, the other ones are control cables. The static rigging we will watch first. Here check the landing gear wires. Look for the proper rigging points. If you got it, you may start. As an example in 1/32: The stretch filament must be fixed at the inaccessible eyelet first. With a knot. Fixed with CA just to secure. Than stretch it tight without using the flexibility of the filament. Than stretch it for 5mm and fix it with a knot. Not more! Because the summary of filaments would cause a tremendous force. Secure it with CA! CA is by all occasions just a tool to secure and never to fix! If you do not believe it, after several years your WW1 a/c should be rigged properly and unharmed. Always the inaccessible eyelet first! If you go to the wing. Check all rigging points and but your eyelets in before you assemble 1. The landing gear 2. Tail wing rigging, if existing 3. The cabane struts rigging 4. X wires fuselage to outboard and switch after one box from star to port 5. Flying wires fuselage to outboard and switch after one box from star to port. If double wires, so do both! 6. Landing wires fuselage to outboard and switch after one box from star to port. If double flying wires, so take care that it runs properly! 7. Fuselage to wing rigging if present Happy modelling
  8. Hello Folks, I wanted to invite you to follow me through the journey with this Trumpeter Swordfish Mk I, as I'm pretty sure you've seen some before. Nevertheless the Stringbag in it's matchbox incarnation was one of my first models I build together with my father way back in the seventies. While I type this, I just can't help slipping into a bit of nostalgia, remembering the three coloured model from their "Orange" range of model, summer holidays in the seventies, the toy shop where I spent a fair amount of my pocket money... (Ok, let's stop here now. For those interested - this one: http://www.matchboxkits.org/product_info.php?cPath=27_35_53&products_id=712) I decided to go for W5984 with the "full" camouflage, mainly as it seems more like the one at the FAA Museum in Yeovilton I visited last year and I hope I can use some pictures for details. As I planned to do this one straight OOB and followed this direction so far, I start here with the body already put together and having received it's clear coat: The pictures are not 100% perfect (I take this as an excuse for considering the acquisition of a nice Macro lens), but you get an idea. I used Lifecolor Dark Green and Dark Seagrey for the camouflage and Revell Sky for the bottom, airbrushed the camouflage pattern from hand and blutack-ed beween upper and lower painting. I'm ok with the result so far, as it comes close to what I imagine as a quick "field paint", applied not in the factory but on an airfield and far from being perfect. Something like the birds from that aera as exhibited, like the Walrus and the Stringbag in Yeovilton.
  9. Hi, I am trying to build the Revell Titanic and it has simple rigging on it. I have got to a part where I have to thread two pieces of he supplied cord through one 0.5mm hole. I am really struggling to do this and am wondering if anyone has any tips. I ave to thread two cords through one hole in the deck in order to support the masts :-) Apologies if there is already something on the forum about this but I cannot find it. Thanks A frustrated modeller!
  10. dov


    Tubes With Micro Tubes from Albion Alloy, you may create a better appearance of your model. We use for these matters the 0.5mm/0.33mm brass tubes and cut it in proper length of 5mm. alternatively, you buy it already finished in new silver as product number TB1 with 0.4mm/0.25mm 3mm long or TB2 with 0.5mm/0.33mm 4mm long. The self-cutting method is the cheapest, but you need a jig and a Dremel to cut it. Afterward the ends must be deburred. https://www.albionalloys.com/de/ Well, the thing you have to care is, not to forget to put two of them on your filament. Happy modelling
  11. Hello all, Well, I wasn't intending on taking part in this GB but the Swordfish has been somehow making it's way to the front of the cupboard regardless of which way I pack the boxes away! It's obviously trying to tell me something. Anyway here I am with Airfix's 1/72 Swordfish Mk.1. I have been looking forward to building her and her floatplane sister who is patiently waiting for the next floatplane/flying boat GB. I'm not a Swordfish aficionado so I'll hopefully get a few pointers along the way. I have become thoroughly addicted to the group build way of things mainly because taking part has got me to build more in the last few months than I have in a similar number of years, starting with the F104 STGB, then the BM10th, currently the Hawker (Siddeley) also the RAF100th, Airfix golden years, Grumman........ So in for a penny as they say. Here's the gratuitous shot of what is actually a considerable amount of plastic!
  12. I'm looking for something to use for radio aerials and biplane rigging in 1/72 scale besides my old invisible thread, and came across this elastic rigging line from Mig: http://www.migjimenez.com/en/accessories/608-rigging-fine-003-mm.html Anyone have experience with this stuff? It comes in 0.01, 0.02, and 0.03 mm thicknesses, which (if those measurements are correct) are all extremely fine, but it's kind of pricey at 4.50 euro for a 2m long piece. I'm open to other suggestions for 1/72 rigging line if there are better options out there as well. Thanks!
  13. Just to let everyone know that we are now fully stocked for Ezline.... Ezline all shades and both sizes available..... Ta, Paul
  14. Hi, I'm planning my first ship build in a very long while and seeing how kits evolved since I last touched one I was wondering how to go about installing/glueing PE railings in place. I was searching for tutorials but there is a surprinsingly low amount of information on that. I read something about three possible methods: glue on the side of the ship and hide the edges under putty => lots of work and not very realistic? glue on it edge => extremely fragile? use thin wire to reinforce the PE parts from the inside then use tiny holes for fixing to the deck => sounds about the best method so far Rigging is a similar subject as far as a beginner is involved... How to do that and what materials to use? I've seen a tutorial about rigging biplanes using some Uschi van der Rosten materials. Is that all? Any source of information you might care to share is greaty appreciated! Thank you! PS: Are there any good modelling magazines with ship building topics?
  15. Hi All I have the old Tamiya 350th Bismarck plus PE and barrels which I intend to start work on later this year. Haven't been able to find anything definitive about the aerial rigging for Bismarck, but did find this book (available as a Kindle download, which would suit my purposes) :- Just wanted to know if it has reasonable drawings showing the rigging (all I really need the book for) and is therefore worth the purchase price of just under a tenner? Failing that, any suggestions as to a good source for the rigging layout would be appreciated. Many Thanks Kev
  16. Hi again, I'm still battling on with my Tamiya 1/350 KGV and I am at a point where I'm thinking about the rigging and any prep work I can do prior to gluing the deck on, to this end does anyone know the precise location where the various cables mount? I can see approximately from photo's but they do tend to be from a low angle and or blurred so the actual mounting point is hidden. I have the Topdrawings book on KGV but it is also not clear on this point. The Kgv I am building is a late war fit.
  17. Easy rigging for all WWI fans and lovers
  18. Hello Chaps, I've finally completed my first build of the New Year, 2016...now on with the next one! Firstly, I'd like to say that this isn't a kit that I would normally be interested in buying, because of its 36 yr age, poorly engineered and molded parts, a few parts at that, the lack of details, raised panel lines and rivet details, with some rivets being very large for this scale model, and, there was a lot of clean-up to do regarding flash and parting-line miss-match. The engine cowling was poor fitting and there were gaps present at the joints of mating parts. But, that said...I needed a plane that was suitable for a "Spanish Civil War" group Build that I wanted to participate in, on YouTube, and one that was 1/48 scale or larger. Well, that's where my problem arose...I could find 1/72 scale aircraft and after market decals for 1/72, but nothing larger. I therefore decided that I was going to paint all of the markings on myself. Despite my efforts to turn a "pigs ear" into a "silk purse", I felt that I was always trying to overcome the fact that the molded parts look so cheap and "toy-like". Ha well, I stuck with her and posted my best effort with what I had available. For the rigging, I used Heavy black EZ-Line- 1.015" thick, and for the antenna cables, I used Fine black EZ-Line - 1.010" thick. I drilled holes through the vertical and horizontal stabilzers as well as one each side of the fuselage for the elevator and rudder actuator cables and I scratch built the antenna cable hard point at the top of the vertical stabilizer. I'm disappointed with it myself, because I had gotten so comfortable building well engineered and molded 1/32 scale kits....I choose large scale because my eyesight has gotten terrible in the last couple of years as I get closer to my 60 years of age! Anyway, I hope you enjoy the fact that it is different with its Spanish Republican Air Force markings as opposed to the British markings that are normally applied to these models. Enough waffling, here's the photos... So there she is, be gentle...it is a poor kit and no after-market enhancements were used to try to help her out, if any exist? But, if they did, I wouldn't waste the money on AM parts for a kit this old and poorly engineered and molded. I didn't do a build log on here leading up to this "Final Revea", but I did create "Build Update" videos on my YouTube Channel, along with an introduction video and a final reveal video. If you'd like to see how I constructed, painted and weathered this kit, then here are the links to my "Build Series" videos for this model: "Introduction" video link: https://youtu.be/HRoT0Frosvs "Build Update #1" video link: https://youtu.be/jM1voNN10CM "Build Update #2" video link: https://youtu.be/m6A5j3TsEUA "Build Update #3" video link: https://youtu.be/ZcHffhZkBAE "Final Reveal" video link: https://youtu.be/Me-q2zLHqs0 Thanks in advance for taking a look at this posting, watching any of my videos and leaving any comments, greatly appreciated! In the mean-time, happy modeling and have fun! Cheers
  19. Morning all, I haven't done a WIP in a while so I thought I might have a go with the new Airfix BE2c (1:72). I'm planning to do this as an "out of the box" build-apart from one or two scratchbuilt details along the way. First, the kit. A nice, small and sturdy box The contents. Exceptionally good decals, very neat! Clear windscreens without any blemishes, the only problem is that they are terribly small! The sprues- one or two ejector pin marks on the inside of the fuselage- but these are out of sight when the cockpit is fitted. Sam
  20. We've just received these in from Infini Model in South Korea: They have produced 4 different gauges / thicknesses for different applications, be it ship rigging, aircraft ariels or rigging wires. It's slightly stretchy, black in colour (this may expand) and nice and easy to work with. Why not have a look? http://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/collections/infini-model
  21. Hello all, this question may leak into the WWII forum but to me it's more Interwar. Contemplating making my first biplane and it's a Gloster Gladiator, my question is does this aircraft have the same sort of turnbuckles as you see on WWI biplanes, or do the rigging wire for practical scale purposes just go straight into drilled holes in the wings? I have tried to get some close up photos of the attachment points and cannot see clearly, they don't look like WWI era turnbuckles but I cannot make out from the photos I can find what the connection is? By the way the kit I am contemplating is the 1/48th Roden example. Any guidance gratefully received. Peter
  22. Wires and stretchers 1:32 Eduard With the current popularity of 1:32 WW.1 kits from the likes of Wingnut Wings, Roden, and Special Hobby, Eduard have produced this set of etched rigging wires and stretchers. (Most of us will probably refer to these as turnbuckles). Various methods can be used to simulate rigging, from stretched sprue, E-Z line, fuse wire, or fishing line. All of them have their pros and cons, so this is an interesting new approach. The turnbuckles have lines attached to them with 2 different sizes over a total of 36 individual lines. Holes will need to be drilled at each end of the line, with the turnbuckle secured at one end. A small eyelet is secured at the othere end, and the line pulled through it and folded back on itself and glued. Obviously each line will need to be trimmed to a suitable length before fixing to the model. It looks like a simple enough method, key will be securing each turnbuckle and eyelet. A drop of cyano with a dab of accelerator should be the ideal way of doing this. Conclusion. This is an interesting method of replicating rigging, and should also give some strength to the finished model. It looks no more fiddly than threading fishing line or E-Z line through eyelets. Also the turnbuckles are more detailed than tubing or line tied off, and should look good once painted and in place.
  23. Hi guys, I am still a newbie (working on my fourth kit now) and would love to build the 1/72 Airfix Tiger Moth. What still hinders me is the rigging. Is there anywhere a good description about how to get rigging done right - so that even a newbie like me will understand it? Thanks for providing any information that might help. Cheers, Michael
  24. This is my first biplane for about 40 years Used CA glue and monofilament for the 'generic' rigging, it was a pig especially the bits close to the fuselage after the top wing was on, but I'm fairly pleased with the result despite the CA glue running over the decals(I'll use thick next time with an accelerator
  25. Hi all, First thread here. I've done a few builds on the ww1aircraftmodels.com forum and I thought I would continue on here as I've got a few non WW1 subjects to build.. However, I'm half way through a Salmson so I thought I may as well post this here as well to kick off.. Picked this up at Telford - usually stick to 1/32 for WW1 but I was very impressed by the kit and had to get it! It's really like a 1/32 kit that's been shrunk.. Going for this USAS colour scheme - I just like the top wing markings.. The engine and gun ring - very good in this scale - but very fiddly! Some nice phot etch supplied - decals for individual instruments The fit of parts is exceptional - it really does just fall together.. They supply a very clever cardboard jig for the lower wing fitting.. Well, that's where I'm up to so far, painting up next . If anyone's debating whether to get the kit - I wouldn't - it's lovely.. Thanks for looking Guy Ps I'll post some completed model threads of my previous efforts shortly
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