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Found 1,581 results

  1. I have had this next build in my stash for several years, and am finally getting around to putting the thing together. Chosen out of the stash by my son is Revells 1:72 Halifax Mk.III, this is going to be a straight from the box build with the exception of using Vallejo acrylics in place of the suggested Revell (purely personal preference here). It's a big kit with many sprues, and a choice of 2 colour schemes and decals. The sprues are very clean, no flash to be seen (which is a bonus) and lots of detailing. I am planning on building the aircraft in the scheme of 'Oscar,' No.424 Squadron, Royal Canadian Air force, 1944. Let the fun commence.
  2. Hi everybody; here's my new project, the 1/72 Revell Eurofighter Typhoon This type entered into Italian Air Force service (AMI, Aeronautica Militare Italiana) in 2004, and it's currently deployed in three different bases: Grosseto (4° Stormo), Gioia del Colle (36° Stormo) and Trapani Birgi (37° Stormo). The kit supplied decals allow to build six different versions: two Germans, one Austrian, one British, one Spanish and one Italian, which is the one I'm doing. Typical Revell instruction sheet, with basically useless color table - it only refers to Revell paints The airframe I'm going to reproduce and the sprues (there's many of them ) The clear parts: the windshield shows some bubbles While the canopy has an annoying moulding seam going all along mid-line I'm planning to use the AM cockpit set from PAVLA More later, now I need to take care of my lawn. Ciao
  3. Ready for inspection is my Revell 1:72 Handley Page Halifax B Mk.III. I have built the kit straight as it comes from the box, using Vallejo acrylics. The kit went together with relative ease, it didn't require too much filler, and has a nice amount of detail. I have attempted adding some highlights to the top coats of paint, and am happy with the overall effect. It has been a really enjoyable build and I heartily recommend the kit. Thanks for looking.
  4. Hi all, Here is my attempt to get back in the swing of things: The 68' Dodge Charger R/T from the 1968 movie 'Bullitt' staring 'Mr Cool' Steve Mc Queen, slimy Robert Vaughn and two nasty Mob hitmen and featuring THE seminal 'Car Chase' and a brilliant score by Lalo Schifrin. I had already made a limited start a while ago, but nothing more than stripping the chrome parts, washing all the parts and cleaning up the mold lines/sanding the body in preparation for primer and as you can see a few of the motor components have been assembled. I have some Flocking powder to do the interior of both cars and some paint and lacquer on order for both this and the Mustang. Such a cool car. Cheers, Mark.
  5. A question for those more familiar with the various F-16 kits out there, specifically ESCI's F-16A as compared against the Revell kit. I wanted to get a Revell F-16A kit and as the only ones currently available are the MLU versions, I picked up an ESCI F-16A kit. It is very well done with respect to surface details. There are a few areas that I will tweak with some aftermarket bits, but overall a well done kit, especially when you consider how long ago it was when the kit was issued. That brings me to my question. Does the ESCI kit represent a very, very early A? Particularly when it comes to the area that is directly behind the cockpit and including the rear portion of the canopy? I ask as when compared to the Revell kit, ESCI in this area is flat and there is no "step", while Revell (and other kits) has a "step": ESCI Revell If someone could clear this up for me that would be most helpful.
  6. As part of my effort to clear my backlog of started kits I have dug out my Matchbox Spitfire. I started this literaly decades ago, but didn’t get far. I have looked at it occasionally, but no action. Then I bought some Xtradecal decals for it, SAC MkIX undercarriage legs, MasterCasters interior, Master gun barrels. Finally I found out about the Grey Matter correction set for the nose, which of course I immediately ordered on a wim. Having now spent about ten times what the original kit cost, guilt has led me to this, my first WIP. It will not be a tutorial, I am not that good, it will not be a guide to the ultimate accurate Matchbox Spitfire, but posting about it will serve to prod me to get it built. With a little luck, at about the halfway point, somebody will announce a new accurate Mk 22/24 for you guys waiting for one. We will start with the nose, the Grey Matter nose is one seriously large accurate lump of resin. I may scratchbuild the u/c legs out of brass because even the SAC legs might fold under the weight! It also might be the first Spitfire build to need weight in the tail to prevent it becoming a nose sitter. You can see the difference with the kit item. The panel lines look much more to scale than the Matchbox lines-lol.
  7. Hi, getting round to starting the GR4 that's been sitting round for ages. Going to be building Goldstar farewell scheme
  8. Ok,folk's here's the premise,operational commitments meant that the dedicated VIP Voyager was needed for it's original tanking role,it was decided that due to the new trading partnerships being forged around the globe government ministers and Royal family members needed to fly the flag in a manner akin to the US Presidents Air Force one so a new a-550 was ordered for this role.Making and winning the case was Airbus as compatibility with the current RAF fleet meant costs were by far the most competitive.No drab gray aircraft for this one full hi viz marking's are the order of the day
  9. Revell is to release 1/144th new tool Airbus kits - ref. 03942 - Airbus A320 neo Lufthansa New Livery - ref. 04952 - Airbus A321 neo Sprues on display at Shizuoka 2019 Sources: https://www.facebook.com/tetramodel/photos/a.2474802349220072/2475722535794720/?type=3&theater https://www.facebook.com/hobbyland.osaka/photos/a.2253464838073537/2253472751406079/?type=3&theater V.P.
  10. "This box is too big, takes up too much space - can you build it?" My dads words. Good reason as any to build a kit, right? I think he just wants more space for new kits... I got back in the model making beginning of this year - and got my dad interested again too. I think it's only fitting as it was my dad who got me introduced into model making and aviation all those years ago. We used to build kits together - but the hobby has been on bit of a hiatus for 20-25 years now. But this year has been model making madness and I've been loving it! We both have pretty clear focus - my dad is into 1/48 WWII stuff and my main interest is cold war 1/72 jets. But it's fun to dabble 'outside the box' every now and then, right? So my dad has couple old jets in his stash that he's probably never gonna build - and we've had a deal: I pick a kit from his stash, build it, he gets it back for display - then I pick a new kit. Win-win, really - I get to build them, but I don't have to worry about where to put them all & keep 'em dust free - - - - - - - - - - - - So, what I will be building: Revell F-89D/J Scorpion (kit number 4568), 1/48 scale, released in 1990. I will be doing the D-version as in the box art. It's a pretty large aircraft (still not as large as the box suggests) and I reckon it will look pretty cool once done. I've taken a little head start, already went ahead and built the cockpit. Honestly, the kit as a whole seems bit dated with raised panel lines & ill fitting parts - but the cockpit isn't half bad! - - - - - - - - - That's for today. Oh, and hi to everybody - been lurking in the forums for better part of this year - nice to finally contribute something to it.
  11. I've had this kicking around the stash many years. I really like the Revell Luftwaffe '46 kits and wish they'd have done more of them. I just like how absurd this thing is, two seats, twin 30mm in the cockpit, 20mm barrettes and a forward firing 20mm in a mini turret thing. It's great lol I lost the decals to it, but that doesn't really matter, hell I might even make it Hungarian or something. I've also gotten rid of the box as it;s one of those horrid side opening things that get crushed in the stash, although the artwork is cool, fighting B-29's and all. I'll build this in between my larger project which is a 1/32 Su 25.
  12. This is the Revell model of the P1099B, an aircraft that never left the drawing board in terms of design. It's a rather ugly aircraft but that's kinda what I liked about it when I bought the kit. According to the instructions this aircraft was from KG 76, a bomber squadron, so I found a much larger pistol packing devil for the side of the aircraft, I think it came from a KG 76 Junkers 88 kit. Since it was a fighter bomber, I also added a bomb and rack under the fuselage from an Me 262. Colour scheme is RLM 82 light green with RLM 83 dark green patches over RLM 76 blue. The squiggles are RLM 76 which I applied with a brush to get the nice hard edge. This was based off an Me 262 camouflage schemes that I liked. Overall the kit is good fitting, although there was some filling and sanding required on the engine nacelles and the nose wheel insert. Some weight was also required to prevent tail sitting.
  13. B-1B "Lancer" Bomber Platinum Edition (04963) 1:48 Revell After the cancellation of the Mach 3 B-70 Valkyrie due to the vast improvements in Soviet anti-aircraft missiles that resulted in the infamous downing of Gary Powers' U-2 spy plane, the nuclear bomber's days were numbered, and in order to maintain their usefulness the profile was switched to low-level in order to avoid detection for as long as possible and allow them to drop or launch their payload on the enemy targets with a good chance of success. The B-1 bomber was put forward with the capability of reaching Mach 2 at height and being able to maintain a high Mach number at low-level thanks to variable geometry wings, all while carrying a heavy bomb load and enough fuel to get there and back again. The new look-down/shoot-down radar that was to be incorporated into the Mig-31 Foxhound gave the administration pause for thought that led to the eventual cancellation of the project after the original prototypes had been built and flown, as the thinking was that the B-52 was just as likely to get through at a substantially lower cost. That wasn't the end of the Lancer though, as the expected entry into service of the stealthy B-2 Spirit was pushed back and an interim gap needed filling, a fact that was used by the political parties to beat each other with during the 1980 election. The incoming Reagan administration decided to reawaken the stalled project with substantial changes to meet the new requirements that led to the B-1B with a lower top speed at altitude, a higher top speed at low level, and a substantial increase in bomb load. Accompanying these changes were a similar improvement in avionics and electronic self-defence systems due to the time elapsed between cancellation and reactivation. There was still plenty of opposition and political wrangling over the type until and since the delivery of the last of 100 airframes, centring around its cost and initial short service expectation. The type's role has transitioned to conventional bombing, and it has undergone much improvement and adaptation over the years to keep up with the march of munitions technology, which includes the cockpit instrumentation moving over to glass Multi-Function Displays (MFDs) and electronic integration with other assets to improve overall situational awareness. The remaining fleet is currently expected to stay in service until the 2030s, but knowing politicians and their motivations, this could change any day. At present it is intended to be replaced by a remote-piloted bomber with a similar planform to the B-2, called the B-21 Raider. The Kit The origins of this kit date back to the 80s as can be seen from the raised stamp on the underside of the fuselage, but it is still an impressive model and not just because of its size. For a while it was touted as the largest injection moulded part for a model kit, but with the recent influx of heavy bombers in 1:32 it may no longer hold that crown, although that probably depends on how you measure "biggest". It has been re-released a few times over the years and is still an impressive tooling, although as years have gone by and the original aircraft has evolved, some work is required to make your model up-to-date. There are a few issues "baked-in" around the shape of the engines, which need some work to be totally accurate and Cutting Edge once had a set to do just that. With them out of the picture for some time however, other companies such as Metallic Details have taken up the challenge. The box is gigantic and will take up quite a lot of space in your stash, so be prepared to make room, and if you're planning on sneaking it past your other half, it's safe to say that's not likely as the box is 75cm x 46cm x 11cm! With it being the Platinum Edition, you get some additions that weren't included in the original in the form of two Photo-Etch (PE) detail sets and a set of masks that are Revell branded editions of previously released Eduard sets for the exterior and importantly for the cockpit, including detailed instrument panels and a set of kabuki-tape masks. It totals five frets of differing sizes, and two of the internal sheets are nickel-plated and pre-painted for your ease. The sprues of the B-One (hence the nickname Bone) have always been a little prone to losing their parts due to their size and relatively small sprue gates, but some of the sprues have been separated to fit within the bags, so in my sample more than a few parts had come loose and they rained out of the bags as I unpacked them. The main fuselage parts are massive and have deep engraved panel lines that could do with reducing a little bit before painting. The same detail extends to the wings and other external parts, and where the wings pivot there is a slight unevenness to the surface due to slight shrinkage of the thicker areas whilst cooling. This is pretty easy to fix due to the deep panel lines and is best done with your favourite sanding sticks and putty (if needed) before you begin construction. It is an ageing kit, but it's still a good one that should be improved further with the additional PE parts, plus a little care in preparing the exterior surface. If you want to go for ultimate detail and improve the engine nacelles that's down to you and your wallet, or you could build it as is and enjoy it anyway. Inside the gargantuan box are technically four sprues in dark grey styrene, two in black, one in a smoked clear styrene and of course the five PE sheets within a separate card box that is intended to protect them from damage due to shifting contents. The instruction booklet has the decal sheet sandwiched between its pages, and the painting and decaling instructions can be found on the back pages in colour as it the new normal from Revell. I say "technically" as there are a number of cuts to the sprues as mentioned earlier to get them in the bags, possibly due to the addition of the box that contains the PE. To avoid confusing the issue by interleaving the PE instructions into the build, I'll detail those parts and their use after the main review. Construction begins with a choice of whether to pose the model with wheels up or down, in which case you don't need the crew entry ladder. If you're using the ladder it's more of a ramp, with rungs down the centre and guide rails at the sides. It gets put to one side while the nose gear bay is built up from panels and bulkheads then it too is put to the side while the cockpit is made up on its tub. The instrument panel and coaming are added along with the twin control columns then the two pilot seats and the identical back-seats are made up and the pilot's are added to the front with the rear-seaters behind a bulkhead and facing forward, to be seen through a doorway between the compartments and the escape hatch until it is closed up. Both assemblies are brought together on top of the nose gear bay once painting has completed, and the two nose parts are decked out with their smoked side glazing parts in anticipation of joining them around the cockpit/gearbay assembly. There is no detail inside the nose parts and you are advised to put 70g of weight into the nose to avoid having the largest tail-sitter you'll ever see, and as you join the halves together, you add the crew ladder if you are using it, allowing it to pivot open or closed. The nose is a separate cone that fits over a small radar assembly attached to a bulkhead, which you can leave unglued so you can see it later. Before the main fuselage and wing roots can be made, a number of areas must be detailed first. The huge bottom moulding has main gear bay and all three bomb bay apertures cut out for later, and the upper halves of the engine pods are attached at this point, but I suspect they'd be more useful to be left off until later for painting and ease of handling. The gear bays are first and these are made up with a base part decorated with bulkheads, a pair of central dividers and right and left side panels. This is set aside for a while until all the assemblies are ready, and the bomb bays are next. Here Revell have got the front two bays set up as two separate entities when they are in fact a single bay with a divider suspended around half way and the outer skin panel attached to the bottom of that and the sides. If you have a look in the excellent Daco book on the B-1 you'll be able to see that very clearly, but for the sake of ease of moulding (I suspect) they have been made separate. The rotary launchers that allow the B-1 to carry so much weaponry are provided in a simplified format with a set of 16 AGM-69 SRAM nuclear missiles, which won't be appropriate if you're building a modern Bone, as they gave up the nuclear role a long time ago. The missiles are three parts each, and the launcher is two parts with splined plates that slide over the conical sections and butt up against the flanges on the cylindrical section. Eight missiles are clustered round each launcher and they are installed into the arched bay, which has detail inserts added along the sides and bulkheads fore and aft that hold the launcher in place. The finished assemblies are added inside the lower fuselage along with the main gear bay, and the third bay that is usually used to hold additional fuel is added at the rear with another arched shell around the cylindrical fuel cell. The interior is now complete, but the two massive variable-geometry outer wing panels need to be made up from their two parts, then slipped into their circular recesses inside the fuselage so that they can be left to pivot later on. The fuselage top is then glued in place thus trapping the wings, and you should ensure that the two halves are well glued together to avoid cracking later. The size of the parts is such that pressure at the wingtip could result in damage to your careful work closing up and minimising the seams, so do take care. The engines reside in pods under the wing roots and Revell's instructions have you adding the upper portion of these to the fuselage early on in the build, but that would make sorting the seams a bit difficult, so I'd leave them loose for now. The lower portions of the engine pods have intake trunking within, which are Y-shaped and have two engine faces inserted inside at the aft end. The trunking is then glued into the lower cowling located on pins and once dry the upper and lower halves are joined together. These are topped and tailed by the sloped intake lips, which we've already mentioned are not quite the right shape, and the exhaust cans, which have the rear faces of the engines inserted. These two aren't quite accurate, but if you choose to investigate the correction sets they will add to the total cost of your model. With the fuselage together the cockpit section can be added and again take care to glue it well, considering adding some reinforcement to the joint to avoid issues down the line. At this stage your Bone is without a tail of any sort but this is soon to be rectified, starting with the elevators, which are linked by a pin that travels through the aft fuselage once the two surfaces of each one are glued together. The aft fuselage is a simple two-part shell that has a tail-cone added, and this may need updating as there were changes in this area over time. The fin peg passes through the fairing near the root of the tail and is glued to its partner and not to the tail itself unless you'd like to fix it in position. This is also glued to the main fuselage assembly with a small lip improving the mating surface. Again, you might want to looking into additional strengthening measures here. If you are modelling your B-1 on the ground the landing gear will need to be addressed, starting with the wheels, which have been moulded in black and are each made from two parts. The hubs are also two parts and half the rear hub parts have the axle moulded into the back to join the pairs of wheels. The gear legs are quite complex and with the addition of brake hoses and a little extra detail can be made to look very realistic as a quick Google of any of the excellent builds over the years will confirm. Our own @Alan P built a beautiful model that was sadly crushed during shipping some years ago. The nose gear leg can be built up with the ability to steer the bottom portion by leaving the glue off the joint between the upper and lower portions, and it has three clear landing lights and retraction jacks added before the wheels are slipped through and it is fitted to the nose gear bay. Two bay doors are fitted to the front of the bay, and another triangular door captive to the back of the gear leg. The main gear both have four wheels each on a short bogie in side-by-side pairs. The main leg has the bogies moulded in and is made from three parts. The retraction jacks pull the legs sideways and are made up from four parts each with a few additional parts adorning the bogie area prior to the wheels being inserted through the holes to join up with their opposite number, and if you are careful with the glue they should rotate once they are complete. This is repeated for the other leg and a number of scrap diagrams are used to better show how the parts go together. They are inserted into their bays with another jack added along the way, and the bay doors are fitted around the edges. If you are building your Bone wheels-up, the process if somewhat simpler, with the same bay door parts being used to cover the bays and requiring just two small parts to be removed from the nose gear bay edge. The bomb bays can also be posed closed by using the two outer bay parts only, or if you are showing the contents of the bays, there are four extra hinge parts to glue to the inner edges of the doors, providing the mating surface to attach them to them to the edges of the bays. The wheels down pose will also need a retraction jack added to the boarding ladder, and then the cockpit is glazed over by adding the smoked canopy and the rear crew escape hatch over their seats. The Bone wouldn't be the same without its small canards under the cockpit window, and then it's just a case of adding all the delicate aerials and antennae around the place which also may have changed over the years, so check your references, then the two strakes that install over the wing-glove area. Platinum Edition Parts As mentioned earlier, there are some Revell branded Eduard PE sets included in a card box in this edition, with separate instructions from the main kit. Where these parts can be used are denoted with the icon "PE" in the main instructions, so you can cross-refer between the two as you progress. They are as follows: Interior (049639035) Comprising three frets, two of which are nickel-plated and pre-printed, while the last is bare brass. The main focus is on improving on the kit instrument panels, which take up a lot of the cockpit, replacing the main panel, side consoles and centre console and aft panel with new pre-painted parts, as well as a nicely detailed throttle box. Additional parts are included for the rear bulkhead; the four crew seats, all of which get belts and seat details, and the cockpit sidewalls. The only issue with the set is the slightly bluish grey of the instrument panel surround, but if that bothers you it is a simple matter to overpaint the background to blend it in with your cockpit paint and although that sounds tricky it isn't too difficult, as I've done it myself a few times. Exterior (049639036) This set consists of two bare brass frets with a substantial part count. The nose gear bay is detailed first with additional panels and rib detail, plus bay door actuators, and a substantial upgrade of the nearby crew ladder, which receives a totally new set of steps, leaving just the side rails from the kit parts. The crew access door is also detailed internally before the ladder is attached. The main gear bay is next, and is detailed with additional panels to improve on what is already there. The large gear legs are also given additional parts, some of which are designed to be slotted into grooves in the curved top of a leg section, so have your razor saw handy. The huge weapons bays are upgraded with detail on the bulkheads fore and aft, including the big baffles that drop down to disrupt the airflow that allows the bombs to successfully leave the bay at speed. The separating bulkheads are also detailed with extra parts, which should help to reduce their dated appearance. The outer skin of the Lancer is next decked-out with a large number of aerials, static-discharge wicks, and two-part vortex generators under the tail. A few small probes and vents are also added around the nose, with additional detail installed between the twin engines on each side, with some fan detail parts inside. Masks While there aren't many windows on the Bone, they are large and rounded, the radiuses for which can be difficult to cut manually. The yellow kabuki tape is pre-cut for just such purposes, and you get the main canopy halves, side windows and portholes, most of which are of the strip type to hug the frames and avoid the compound curves that could cause wrinkles. Fill the centres of the masks with liquid mask or scrap tape before you spray for best results. Markings For the majority of its career the Bone has been dressed in a dark grey scheme which suits it well. There are two decal options included in this boxing and both are grey as you'd expect. The majority of the decals are stencils and walkway striping, with just a few markings on the tail and near the crew compartment to tell the airframes apart. From the box you can build one of the following: 9 Bomb Squadron, 7 Bomb Wing, Dyess AFB, Texas, October 1995 116 Bomb Wing, Georgia Air National Guard, Robins AFB, Georgia, July 2000 Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt/gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion It's not a perfect kit, but it's still an impressive one even after a few decades. If you're going to build it to the best of your ability and with the utmost accuracy, taking advantage of the aftermarket out there it will get quite expensive, but if you don't want to push out that particular boat, there's enough in the box to give you a well-detailed model thanks to the PE sets. Either way, at 92cm long it's going to astonish a lot of people when you display it. If you set the wings up for slow flight, it's also 86cm wide, so you better have a big table. Highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  14. Phantom FGR.2 (04962) 1:48 Revell Following a period of cancellations and upheaval in the UK aircraft industry the Royal Navy & Royal Air Force found themselves lacking capability in the 1960s. The decision was taken to purchase the McDonnell Douglas F-4 Phantom already in use in the US. An F-4K (FG.1) version was developed for the Navy and an F-4M (FGR.2) for the Air Force. These aircraft were not the same as the US ones as it was agreed that larger and more powerful Rolls Royce Spey engines would be fitted and the radars would be built under license by Ferranti. While the F-4J was the basis for the UK models the fuselage was redesigned by BAC to accommodate the larger engines. These changes would mean that the unit costs would more than treble over the F-4J. Due to changes in the Navy 20 aircraft originally ordered were transferred to the RAF, then in 1978 following the loss or HMS Ark Royal all remaining Naval aircraft were turned over to the RAF. The Kit This is a reboxing of Hasegawa's kit from the 1980s. this is still the only injected plastic kit in 1.48 scale of a British Phantom. Despite its age this is still a good kit. Revell last reboxed this kit in 2004 and it has always been sought by modellers for its better price and better decals than the original Hasegawa kits. The kit comes on 7 sprues of grey plastic and one clear sprue. Construction starts in the cockpit. The seats are made up first. These come without belts and are fairly simple as they are designed to be used with the kits pilot figures. The cockpit tub is then built up. Instrument panels, bulkheads and side consoles are fitted to make a complete assembly. The front wheel well is also fitted under the cockpit. Once this is made up it can be put inside the fuselage, and the fuselage closed up. On each side then the intakes can be assembled. Next up construction moves to the wings. The lower section contains the centre section, and the left & right uppers contain the folding parts at the ends of the wing. Separate flaps are provided which can be modelled up or down. The wings can then be attached to the fuselage. At the rear the engine exhausts and tail top fairings are then added. The auxiliary inlet doors are added along with the tailplanes. At the front the nose cone is made up and added. The landing gear is then made up and added. The front has twin tyres while the mains one large one. Each gear leg has its own retraction struts and doors to add. On the underside the air brakes are also added. Moving back to the top sides the intake ramps are added along with the 4 part canopy. The main canopies can be open or closed. For stores the kit supplies the main centre line tank and both wing tanks. Also for the centre line there is a 25mm gun pod and the large EMI reece Pod. Sparrow/Sky Flash missiles are provided for the fuselage, but while sidewinder rails are supplied for the wing pylons there are no missiles in the kit. Markings The new decal sheets which looks like it comes from Cartograf by the serial number features 3 aircraft wearing different schemes. XV470 - No. 56 Sqn RAF Wattisham, 1992 In the Later Grey Scheme. XV408 - No. 92 Sqn RAF Wildenrath, 1991 In the overall Blue anniversary scheme. XT898 - No. 2 Sqn RAF Laarbruch 1974 In the Grey / Green over light grey scheme. Conclusion It's a great to see this kit back in Revell's line up. The same plastic with much better decals, and dare we say at a much better price point. Highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  15. Revell is to release in 2017-2018 a new tool 1/32nd North American P-51D Mustang kit - ref. 03944 Source: http://www.kitreviewsonline.de/revell-neuheiten-fuer-das-jahr-2017/ V.P.
  16. I am currently planning/collecting models/parts for building 3 Revell 747s. The first is a 747-400 in Thai Air livery, second a 747-600 conversion in Gulf Air Livery and thirdly a 747-8i in an as yet undecided scheme. Here's my first question, should I fill the panel lines as they are quite obviously too deep?
  17. I have read numerous build threads here and elsewhere on the Revell Tornado kits, but none of them seem to show how perfect (or at least reasonable) inner intake seams were achieved, nor do they explain how. Having started my F.3 I came to the conclusion that intake covers would best be fitted to it, but with another three GR.1/4s and an IDS in the stash I would like to know if - and how - it is possible to get rid of those nasty seams. So, did any of you guys ever succeed in eliminating the intake seams? TIA, Jens
  18. Evening all, just finished this one. Revell's Hawker Hurricane IIc modified to represent one of the IId's supplied to Stalin as a sweetner after Churchill told him he couldn't have any Typhoons. I used the AML decal for Hurricane in Soviet service part 1 as the set came with the cannon required to make the flying tin opener! The Revell kit is not to bad for its age but the panel lines are a bit vague in places and the cockpit doesn't resemble the real aircraft. I removed the 20mm cannons and the bulges on the upper surface and filed the spent case ports on the under side and positioned the cannons over the bomb rack mounting holes. Finished with Tamiya acrylics with a basic oil wash on the panel lines. As always all comments welcome. A quick size comparison against its replacement. The decal set came with 2 pairs of 40mm cannon so I can build a second Hurricane, I was think about Johnny Reds Hurricane with cannon and rockets as featured in the Battle comics.
  19. AVRO Shackleton MR.3 (03873) 1:72 Revell The Avro Shackleton was a long-range maritime patrol, Anti-Submarine Warfare (ASW) and Airborne Early Warning (AEW) aircraft developed by Avro from the Lincoln (with a few elements borrowed from the Tudor), which in turn was developed from the wartime Lancaster bomber. Powered by four Rolls Royce Griffon engines driving contra-rotating propellers, the Shackleton possessed far greater range than its forebears, enabling it to stay airborne for over 14 hours, despite its higher gross weight. In the Maritime Reconnaissance role it began life as a tail-dragger that bore more of a resemblance to the old Lanc, which morphed from versions 1 to 2 with a longer nose and relocated radome, into the MR.3 that added a nose-wheel that brought it more in-line with the tricycle undercarriage sported by the rest of the fleet as it modernised. The MR.3 was further modified with additional equipment inside both to improve its abilities and enhance crew comfort (a little) on those long sorties, which were further extended by the fitting of wingtip fuel tanks. The twin 20mm cannon in the nose and the complement of stores in the bomb bay were key, and the Phase 3 had two viper turbojet engines added to the rear of the outboard nacelles to improve take-off performance when heavily loaded. The Kit Revell's new tool in 2016 was eagerly awaited by many, as modellers had waited over 40 years for a new kit of the Old Grey Lady, with the AEW.2 the first out of the gate. Now we have an MR.3 with changed parts to depict this quite different version of the much-loved Shack. Inside the large end-opening box are 209 parts spread over twelve sprues in grey styrene, two of clear parts, a decal sheet and instruction booklet with colour painting guide to the rear. The mouldings look excellent, with fine, engraved panel lines, recessed rivets and plenty of crisply rendered detail. A great deal of effort has gone into the tooling of this kit. As usual, construction starts with the cockpit. Whilst it doesn't feature a full interior, Revell have done a good job of representing the inside of the Shackleton. The cockpit itself features nicely detailed seats with separately moulded armrests, decal seatbelts, and control yokes, while the detail on parts such as the instrument panel is exquisite as you can see from the detail photo above. The rear crew stations aft of the bomb bay are also nicely represented. Crew seats are moulded separately and there is plenty of moulded-in detail. You can even finish the model with the rear door open in order to show off a little more of the inside. The fuselage itself is broken down into front and rear sections that we rightly assumed were hinting at further releases, and features a double wing spar fixed to the roof of the bomb bay which, just like the real thing lends a lot of structural strength to the model. Before sealing the fuselage halves together, don't forget to fix the small side windows in the fuselage from the inside beforehand. While we're on the subject of clear parts, those provided with the kit are excellent, being both very clear and nicely moulded. The bomb bay doors are split and can be finished in the open position if required, but Revell provide no stores to put in there. The canopy and top hatch glazing are installed after the seams are dealt with, and here you'll need to be careful to get a good join to minimise clean up, although you have a much better chance of retaining all the rivets as they're recessed. If sanding starts to make them faint, you can always stop and deepen them with a bradawl or pin. The big nose cannon are fitted to the pivot from the inside and attached to the hole in the nose along with the curved canopy on top and a trapezoid bomb-aimer's window below. At the rear there is a clear stinger for observation purposes. The huge wings are split into upper and lower halves, with separately moulded ailerons and landing flaps which once assembled simply slide onto the wing spars to form a nice strong join. The rudders and elevators are all moulded separately too, so bonus marks go to Revell for including this useful extra feature, and the tip-tanks are separate with a clear lens added to the front of each one. The engine nacelles are very finely represented with superb moulded-in detail and separate cooling flaps, with the main landing gear bays sandwiched inside the inner engine pods. The landing gear is absolutely fine, but on the other hand you want to hang your Shackleton from the ceiling, you can close the landing gear bays up completely and save yourself the trouble of painting the wheels. There are also alternative outer nacelles with the exhaust for the Viper turbojets if you choose to model the Phase 3 example, which is good to see. Aside from adding a host of aerials and other small details such as the belly-mounted radome, all that remains to do is assemble and paint the propellers. This is no mean feat due to their sheer numbers – 24 tips in all. That's the bonus of contra-prop models, twice the props, twice the fun! Tackling this sub-assembly first might be wise as it is bound to be quite time consuming and could seem more of a chore if you're approaching burn-out at the end of the project. Markings There are two decal options supplied on the sheet, each one taking up two pages of the booklet, but you'll need to flip pages whilst decaling as they aren't pages that face each other even though there is a blank page at the back. Both options wear the same high demarcation white fuselage over dark grey scheme, and from the box you can build one of the following: Shackleton MR.3 (Phase 2) No.206 Squadron, Royal Air Force, Kinloss, Scotland, 1965 Shackleton MR.3 (Phase 3) No.42 Squadron, Royal Air Force, St Mawgan, Cornwall, 1970 Decals are printed for Revell by Zanetti, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. You can have a look at our Walkarounds by clicking on the buttons below for a bit more incitement if the pictures of crisp plastic detail aren't yet loosening your wallet. MR.3 (Phase 3) WR977 @ Newark Air Museum MR.3 (Phase 3) WR982 @ Gatwick Aviation Museum Conclusion It's hard to believe we've been blessed with two modern toolings of the Shackleton and now four variants are covered, with the Revell kit appearing to be free from what most would consider to be major potential oopsies. surface detail is superb, with its beautifully rendered panel line and rivet detail, making the competitors look a little soft by comparison. Overall a very pleasing effort for this variant from Revell that has tempted this 1:48 modeller. Very highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  20. Hi there, I am hoping that I can pick the brains of those of you who have experience airbrushing with Revell Aqua acrylics, as I am having a real battle getting a smooth finish on a Ferrari 458 build. I have a H&S Evolution, and used Humbrol grey spray primer prior to spraying. After reading as much info as possible, I thinned the paint to the 'semi skimmed milk' consistency using de-ionised water. I sprayed in light coats, gradually building up the thickness. However, for some reason, I am getting a rough sand paper-like finish, usually semi-gloss. I have changed the air pressure from 25 psi sprayed at about 10/12 cm distance to 15psi sprayed at half that distance. I also thinned the paint less the closer I was to the model. I have now stripped it three times and have no idea how to solve this, apart from sanding with 5000 grit then covering with Alclad 2 Aqua Gloss in the hope it will look OK. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I have a few images but am not sure how to post them? Many thanks, Ant.
  21. Well - the 'new' Revell MH-47 which includes decals for ZH903 landed on my actual doorstep this week. The real ZH903 has landed not far from my doorstep in the last couple of years. Also ZH900:
  22. Hello It's really a long time I haven't entered in a group build here. This time I have chosen an early F-4E in Israeli Defense Force in 1973. To build this aircraft I have selected in my stash the Revell F-4F which has nearly everything to make a Kurnass (Sledgehammer). Actually, I had to take from a Fujimi kit the sloted stabilators as the F-4F did not have those. Here is the box art and first pictures of the build will follow soon. Cheers. Patrick
  23. Line Engraver (39080) Revell Revell have a growing line of tools that they offer to the modelling masses via their extensive dealer network, allowing modellers to pick up tools on a whim from a shop that might otherwise not stock more esoteric brands. The engraver arrives in a large blister pack with card backing that is covered with the distinctive Revell triangular patterning. Cutting the pack open at the sides reveals the inner layer of clear plastic that traps the scriber between it and the outer blister. I pushed it out from behind and it pinged across the workshop before I could get it under control – avoid doing that if at all possible! Once I'd recovered it from the floor without damage I had a good look over it and it bears a resemblance to many other tools out there, but with the Revell logo printed on one side in colour. It has a tough metal blade at the business end with a scalpel-like cutting surface perpendicular to the handle, which invites you to use the very tip to score lines on your project. It's worth mentioning here that it's a sharp blade and more than a little bit stabby, so take the same precautions that you'd take with a standard scalpel or craft blade and you won't end up losing any/too much blood. Please be careful - we don't have 10 fingers for nothing you know (ok, 8 and two thumbs). As with most engraving tools you draw the blade toward you, which is where the "never cut towards yourself" rule goes out of the window. It's best to proceed with light strokes too, so that if you over-run you don't ruin your hard work. With that in mind, when I demoed it I made a number of lines with an increasing number of strokes of the tool. It doesn't show up too well on white styrene, so I primed the opposite side of the test card with some Tamiya primer, so you can see the white lines it makes as it cuts through. You can thank @Julien for that surprisingly simple but good idea. This is a true engraving tool, and it cuts a fine V-shaped groove in the styrene, rather than pushing the styrene apart like the tip of a needle does. This results in little curls of plastic as you engrave, and when you have finished, a burnish of the edges with a cocktail stick will remove any burrs and soften the line just enough to look professionally done. The other notable feature of the engraver is that successive strokes don't widen the groove very much, so your panel lines won't end up looking like they've been done by the Matchbox panel line guy of yore. You can use Dymo tape, a metal rule or PE template to make your marks straight and/or curved, and as always practice makes perfect. Conclusion This kind of tool is an impressive engraver that takes little skill to use, and with a bit of practice can create nice crisp lines with 2-3 passes of the tool. Thanks to Revell's market penetration and distributor network you should be able to pick one up if you suddenly need one when you're at a bricks & mortar model shop. Very highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  24. Hi all, this is going to be my Halloween season build for this year, should be a lot of fun. I don't intend on using the leopard skin decals they are way too naff for my liking, and I won't be painting them on, not sure what I will come up with yet, but I have an idea! As for the paint job, well I intended on painting the car in a metal flake black, with purple flecks in the lacquer. This is a 60's kit (re boxed in the 80's) and it sure does show its age, makes you appreciate how good modern kits are, but I guess it's all modelling at the end of the day; this kit was bought out as a replica of the actual convertible that Elvira drove in the movie. Among the creepy extras the front grille has a ghoulish spider web. Stay tuned for the next update.
  25. I am currently working on a Revell 787-8 kit in 1/144which will be displayed in the Qatar Airways livery. I like the kit, I tend to find that the larger Revell kits go together really well and they are easier to work with than the smaller variants in 1/144 Scale. I had to make the antennas as they aren’t supplied in the kit, and I think with more practice I can make the missing ‘bumps’ on the upper fuselage. I think I am becoming a big fan of the Zvezda brand of kits, the only thing that would improve them overall is the kit decals having more detail. I am going to attempt some Authentic Airliner decals for the first time with this build and hope it will add to the ‘realness’ of the model. It is fully built now, and will start with the main decals soon and wait for the windows and cockpit decals to arrive to complete the model. I built the base board myself using an old piece of cardboard, to help display the larger models as my smaller one would look out of place with the 787 on it, and I plan on building an A350 and B773 soon too. My daughter was quite upset that the people couldn’t get on to the plane so I had to make her an Airbridge to enable them to get on and off... the things we do for children . My photos show her arriving on stand and then with the Airbridge attached. Will post more photos as the model progresses and the finished product in RFI once done . Regards, Alistair
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