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Found 1,510 results

  1. This was a fabulous kit to make, all the parts fitted really well and with good instructions, as well as a nice array of stores. My first 1/48 kit. I think I left the wing strakes a bit too long, and I haven't got the skill to fashion the three tiny canopy mirrors, plus she's a bit too satin not matt, but I hope she captures the essence of a Jag from the days when it was so much fun to hang out at the end of Coltishall's runway, or see them screaming low over Norfolk! All comments welcome ...
  2. I found this aircraft listed as a future release for October on the Hannants website, and I´m wondering if it´s going to be a reboxing of the Eduard Bf 109F-2. The price is really tempting too. https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/RV3893
  3. Here we have Revell's 1/144 Lockheed Sea Shadow, dating from 1996. A bit of an unusual build, due to its shape, with a little care the kit goes together well, with a nicely detailed interior which can be glimpsed through the glazing and the open doors. The only problem with the assembly is you are left with two gaps between the underside and the outriggers on the inside, so a lot of filler is required. Hairystick painted in humbrol enamels, with a final satin cote. The decals were a problem, the set with the model were not in the best of condition, luckily i thought i found a spare set on evilbay. Being aware of ghosting especially on black i soaked the first in decal fix, the water;line decals broke and had to be put on in bits, fortunately i tried the inside of the out riggers first, when dry massive ghosting. Checking my research pics the waterline markings were removed later in the project, so i decided to go with the minimal decals i could, not to draw attention to the ghosting. So here she is for your perusal. All the best Chris
  4. Wtf? Two identical sprues? Very detailed panels,seats and cockpit area! Detailed exhaust and pipes! Seam Line Great decals Great panel lines Other...
  5. Hi guys, this one has been creeping up on me. But as promised I will build the 1/32 Revell P-39D. As you all may know, but this is a re-box op the special hobby kit. I will build it out of the box, but maybee I will get some goodies for it. I am thinking of buildig it as a Russian version. I will need to get a decalset for it or some maskes. The foto's of the box and content will follow later. cheers,
  6. Ok guys, next project. Or better a reboot. I had gotten this as a bd present and started this one last year. Due to stress at work and a training and uncertainity I could do the mottling scheme I put it aside. Having finished my La-5 I now return to this but not without a challenge. Due to the home decoration I got no workspace AND most of my paints and stuff is behind a heap of other stuff in the garage. So I can just cut, clean and glue abit. This makes that I try to clean and assemble as much as possible. And cleaning I do need to this. My first verdict is that it is not a perfect model but this package of a big bag of plastic and lots of nice detail for €35,- is a steal.The box with sub assemblies and parts fill quickly. Well there are a view weird attachment points on the engine part. Points?? Hmm more strips, will have to sand down this abit. There were four of these strips on both engine caps :(. . . The lower hull with lower wings. I needed to help this a bit to get the undercarriage part in place. Dry fitting with the hull will show if I can proceed. I can only build with good weather in the gardin till 5pm. So pray with me for good weather next weekend! Greetings Lars
  7. Calling this one done. Was quite a big struggle for me at times... Mainly due to it's size alone. I broke off almost all the guns during the painting... All in all I really enjoyed the kit. The interior is nicely detailed, as are the engines. I had some real issues with getting the engines lined up inside the nacelles, but I think it just about turned out OK. The 4 colour paint job was a big jump for me - and due to my using Belton rattle cans (which come in an amazing variety of colours - but can be very thick) some of the surface details were lost under coats. I am quite happy with how the camo looks, but on reflection would have liked to make the sand / sky blotches a little more intricate. I used the box decals - with larger markings I sanded them a bit before applying them, which made it easier to chip at them with a sharp blade once microsol was on. Part of me wishes I had bought aftermarket decals for the actual unit... Was largely built OOB except for some wiring added to the gear, and some scratched details for the cockpit... I mainly enjoyed experimenting with varying acrylic shades on the interior and legs... WIP thread is here for those interested in my shambolic work along the way! Thanks for looking! Bruce
  8. After finishing my two Chaparrals (see them here: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235043149-texas-roadrunners-chaparral-2c-and-2d/ ) I wanted to do one more automotive subject before moving on to some aircraft sitting on my "To Do" shelf. The Chaparrals were supposed to be a quick "out of the box" project, but they turned out to be more complicated than expected. What to do? While researching the Chaparral 2D coupe I found this photo from the 1966 Daytona 24-hour race: Ford's GT-40s dominated that race, earning four of the top five positions! I found a Revell boxing of the winning car, #98, on eBay and chose that as my new project. The Revell kit is, in fact, a Fujimi GT-40. Good news is that the Fujimi GT-40 builds up very nicely. The bad news is that Revell simply added new decals to a generic Fujimi GT-40, leaving out details particular to the #98 car. As a result, this project wasn't exactly the "out of the box" build I had been hoping for. I would have done better to purchase Fujimi's version, which is more accurate: More on that, later... On to the pics! U As I mentioned earlier, Revell's kit requires some modifications to better model the Daytona #98 GT-40. For starters, two air scoops on the rear deck need to be removed, as well as a "blister" on the roof over the driver's head: Also, I had to re-build the radiator outlet to replicate that on the #98 car: I replaced the front grill with some wire cloth left over from my Chaparral project: There are other inaccuracies in the Revell kit that I didn't attempt to fix. For example, the fuel filler cap is on the wrong side, and there should be blisters on the body over the front tires. The Fujimi kit fixes all of these errors, thus my statement that I should have bought that kit instead of Revell's. If you've followed along this far, let me show you a few more in-process pics: All in all, this was an enjoyable build. Aside from correcting Revell's errors, the only problems I encountered were of my own making. I foresee building a few more Fujimi GT-40s in the not-too-distant future!
  9. Morning all! The Tornado Gr.1 kit that Revell offers in 1:72 is probably the go-to kit when it comes to modelling IDS variants in that scale. However, despite producing a fabulous 1:48 Tornado GR4 and a 1:48 F.3 ADV kit in recent years, the GR4 in 1:72 scale remains an illusive subject for Revell- having only been covered by Airfix's "attempt" (which I'll be quite honest, I forgot existed until I googled it) and the Hasegawa kit (which is around 2-4 times as expensive as the Revell kit). I've built 2 Tornado GR1's before, both of them Revell: With the impending retirement of the Tornado GR4 from RAF service next year, I thought it would appropriate to have a crack at a 1:72 Tornado GR4. Kit: I bought this particular kit from the Newark Air Museum (I highly recommend a visit there, it's by far one of the better aviation museums that I've had the pleasure of visiting) and used decals from the Xtradecal "RAF and RN Update 2014-15 Pt.1". Detailing: Although I don't strive for 100% accuracy with my builds, the key differences between a GR1 and GR4 are the presence of FLIR pod, the removal of a cannon and the introduction of more digital displays in the cockpit. Instead of going for aftermarket sets (which I hear are rather good, and I'll look at using one for my next build) I shaped and scribed a piece of scrap sprue to match the rough dimensions of the FLIR pod. The cannon was "removed" by a splash of filler and a bout of sanding, and finally the instrument panels were slightly modified to look more like those of a GR4 (although in this scale you can't see much anyway!). The weaponry of Storm Shadows and ASRAAMs were taken from a Revell Eurofighter kit. Paints: Vallejo Model Air paints were used throughout, alongside a Dark Dirt wash from UMP and landing gear weathering was aided by the application of an AK Interactive landing gear Dust wash. Conclusion: So, that's it for this build. As I've found with my previous attempts, the Revell Tornado kit is one of those kits that is "fun" to build and comes with some incredible detail (just look at those rivets!) straight out of the box. I did make a mess with one of the decals from the Xtradecal set (the "...ary" in 100th anniversary were destroyed during decal placement on the left hand side of the aircraft) and although the repair looks acceptable from a distance, close-up it's quite obvious. I believe it to be entirely my fault and I still regard Xtradecal sets as some of the finest aftermarket decals that I've used. Thanks for having a look! Best wishes, Sam
  10. Star Wars Solo – Imperial Patrol Speeder 1:28 Revell Star Wars: Solo is the latest SW universe film tracing the younger years of smuggler Han Solo, and his hi-jinks before he hooked up with Ben Kenobi and Luke on Tatooine, which changed everyone's lives immensely. I've not seen this episode, but at some point Han gets chased by Imperial troops on Speeder bikes, who don't have the benefit of knowing how that turned out for them on Endor, but I can bet it doesn't end well for them. These Patrol Speeders are more of a sit-in than sit-on vehicle, although the controls seem broadly similar to those used by the Scout Troopers in Jedi. Their riders wear a blend of armour that includes accents from the Shore Troopers of Rogue One, and the familiar Stormtroopers from the original trilogy. The Kit Revell have the license for Star Wars model kits in Europe and the West, and it's good to see them back in action after recent problems resulted in a new management as well as ownership of the company. Solo's raft of new ship and vehicle designs have been committed to plastic in the Build & Play range, which my Son is very fond of and he can still be found playing with the originals a couple of years later, with their original batteries still going strong. His eyes lit up when he saw these, so there's little doubt where they'll be going the minute I've finished with them. All three of the kits in the initial launch have standard-sized boxes, with plenty of card inserts packing out the parts to prevent scuffs from rattling around, and parts bagged in small numbers where appropriate. This one has 40 parts split equally between two identical bikes, both of which have sound effect modules with two sounds at their heart. The figures are made from a flexible vinyl, and sit in a notch in the back of the speeder, with feet on open pedals, and hands on control grips, which they don't quite line up with. That probably won't bother the intended audience however, and they're close enough inboard not to notice. Construction is very simple, as the majority of the hull is already assembled around the electronics, with a small button disguised on the top. Two kick-stands are twisted into place, front & rear detail panels are pushed into their slots, and the seat is installed, leaving a small gap behind it, which is filled by the two rear cowling parts that are added next. Each side has two detail panels that allow some of the moulding underneath to show through, and are moulded in a slightly contrasting grey to accent the detail. The foot pedals and controls fit into holes in the sides, and a probe is fixed to the left of the hull in a large hole, which completes the bike. The rider has separate arms that are moulded with the chest and shoulder armour, which pushes into the front of the body, and is topped off by a head part, which makes it ready to play. Repeat that process for the other one, and then pull the little tabs out of the bottom to complete the circuit and set the 3 x LR44 batteries live and able to make sounds when you tap the button – which happens a lot during construction, just so you don't freak out the first time it happens. They're quite loud! The two sounds are startup and drive-away of the bike, plus a fusillade of blaster fire. Conclusion Marvellous! Two bikes to play with, or to chase poor old (mostly) innocent Han in his "Lego speeder" as I've taken to calling it. More on that shortly. Very highly recommended, and lots of fun! Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  11. Hi guys, To celebrate/commemorate the last day of sixth form for me (yesterday) I've decided to embark on a little project. Unfortunately I damaged the seals on my airbrush after trying to thin down Alclad with cellulose thinners; a new airbrush and official Alclad airbrush cleaner will need to be sought at the start of next week hopefully......Anyway... Running alongside my 1:48 Canberra pr.9 build (found here) I'm going to build an aircraft in a particular scheme that I have been wanting to do for quite a while. The kit is the new(ish?)-tool Revell A320 1:144 in an Ethiad scheme: I won't immediately reveal which aircraft I'm doing, I shall reveal bits and pieces as I go along (what a tease I am! ) but I shall start by giving a considerable hint; Red. Any guesses? That's all for now, at least until the airbrush is sorted. Kind regards, Sam
  12. Morning all So I have ended up with 3 kits on the go at once, not planned this way just happened. I started with the Airfix ME262 for which I also have the Eduard etch set, started out promisingly but the more I have done the less enjoyable this one has become for several reasons, firstly the kit fit has not been up to the recent new tool standards, wings halves not mating correctly, wing to body and engine to wing fit... well I'm still working on that. As you can see from the pictures this one has taken more filler so far than the last 3 kits put together! IMGA0209 by neil Connor, on Flickr IMGA0211 by neil Connor, on Flickr IMGA0210 by neil Connor, on Flickr Because the Airfix kit was starting to get under my skin I started the Eduard Spitfire mk9, this is a Profipack so no after market needed but I picked up some Techmod decals for Israeli and Egyptian aircraft, this is a fantastic kit, extremely detailed and overly complicated. IMGA0207 by neil Connor, on Flickr IMGA0212 by neil Connor, on Flickr This one although going together nicely, does not lend itself for a quick build so I started a third kit. This being Revell P47 Thunderbolt 2013 rebox from 1990's moulds from what I can work out, So far I have spent maybe 60 minutes on this one so far and have been surprised how good the fit and detail is for such an old kit. Better than the new tool ME262? we'll see as I get further into it. IMGA0208 by neil Connor, on Flickr IMGA0213 by neil Connor, on Flickr The only disappointment so far is the box art shows the aircraft with bombs and centre line fuel tank but the kit has 10 rocket and P38 fuel tanks on the wings, I may have to find replacements.
  13. Most recently released by Revell Germany, this small scale Yamato was originally produced the Italian company Casadio as one of their pre-assembled "Miniships" way back in the early 1970s. Over the years It has been reissued many times as an unassembled kit by Revell UK and Almark in England, Revell/West Germany, ESCI in Italy, Sablon in France, and by both Model Power and MPC in the United States. The same plastic has also been marketed as the Musashi. Apparently the only differences among the various releases have been in the instructions and box art. This toy/model from the early 1970s is a very simplified, snap-together affair designed for quick building. When I built it as a kid back then I was among those for whom the kit was apparently designed: wargamers and young modelers (even though it was snap-together, the instructions recommended kid-friendly NOTOX plastic glue... I can still remember the weird lemon scent of that stuff!) At the time I liked the snap together design, but the poor fit of the parts was annoying. And the model is very basic: while the one piece hull is recognizably a Yamato, the shape is vague and toylike. The complex main guns and funnel are reduced to single parts, and the prominent mainmast is missing entirely. Aircraft are only generalized single float monoplane representations, in any case wrong; if they are meant to be Aichi E13A "Jakes", they should have twin floats, if Mitsubishi F1M "Petes" they should be biplanes. The 127mm type 89 guns are only vaguely correct, and the numerous 25mm triples are molded directly to the decks and turrets. Still, the kit has its good points. First of all, at a mere 27 parts the ship goes together quickly, and although basic, I remember that the completed model does resemble the Yamato. The bridge windows are neatly represented as recessed squares, and two alternate main turrets are provided so you can depict the ship at an earlier point in her career before she got the extra antiaircraft guns on the turret tops, or perhaps as the Musashi. Examining the parts this time around, I was struck by the crudeness of the molding with its chunky shapes, flash, goofy pits and bumps... but oh, well. At least the simplified kit wouldn’t tempt me to go nuts superdetailing it! Refering to the overall general arrangement drawing from Janusz Skulski’s Anatomy of the Ship - The Battleship Yamato, the model rides a little high, so I sanded about 2mm from the hull bottom. The hull shape is mostly ok otherwise ...except the bow. After gluing the deck down I added a plastic shim and sanded things into a little better shape. There is adequate representation of planking on the main deck, but the second deck was also shown planked – this particular deck was actually steel, so I sanded the area smooth. A bigger problem was the configuration of the antiaircraft guns. The model is pretty accurate for Yamato (or Musashi) in October, 1944 (Battle of Leyte Gulf) with all those 25mm singles on the main deck. Unfortunately, it also has the six additional 25mm triples along the deck edge amidships which were added to Yamato only later when the single mounts were removed, so the model as is wouldn’t be accurate for either time frame. The simplest fix would have been to remove the center six 25mm triple mounts and go for a Leyte Gulf Yamato, but I liked the powerful look of those triples all lined up on the deck edge. Keeping these meant going for a Yamato in her final 1945 configuration. The 1945 Yamato would require eight more 25mm triple mounts, so I bought a second kit to raid for parts. After trimming off all those 25mm singles (24 of them!), I added the eight 25mm triples from the spare kit in the appropriate places to make an April, 1945 Yamato. ] It was a lot more alteration than I had originally intended, but the mini battlewagon’s air defense is now more accurate for 1945! The main 18 inch guns, though reasonable, were too long compared with my references. Cutting the ends down was the obvious solution, but then the steps in the barrels would have ended up too far forward. Doh! To solve this I removed the barrels, drilled holes in the turret faces and reinstalled the rifles with much of their length pushed inside the turrets. This left guns of the correct exterior length with the steps where they should be. After that I drilled out the tips of the 18 inch barrels with my X-acto and added Milliput blast bags. Also, I improved the aft fire control station (part #12) by combining it with the forward fire control optic array (part #13 with the radars removed) from the spare kit. One of the strengths of this little snap-together kit is the combat bridge windows which are clearly defined, even see-through from the sides in places. I left the kit tower pretty much as is except for a simple wind baffle over the combat bridge using a part from a wrecked 1/350 Tamiya Musashi as a guide. I also replaced the solid kit radars with simple photoetch parts. These were re-purposed floater net baskets from a Gold Medal Models 1/700 scale WW2 USN Cruiser/Destroyer Fittings set. I wanted to avoid scratchbuilding for this quick battleship project, but a shortcoming of this kit is the absence of any representation of the Yamato’s distinctive mainmast. That mast was just too prominent a feature to ignore, so I went ahead and built one up using Detail Associates (part 2505) .015 inch diameter brass wire. This makes for a scale mast about 1½ scale feet thick in 1/1200. Since the complex-looking mast assembly measures a mere ¾ of an inch in height, I made only a simplified representation of it. This model is certainly no masterpiece of the kit maker's art, but it was superior to comparable Pyro and Lindberg offerings of the time, and it is still way less expensive than the various pre-assembled wargaming and collector models out there. I spent less than ten bucks for it, so taken for what it is, this little Yamato isn’t a bad kit at all.
  14. I was checking the instructions earlier today, and I noticed that Revell tells me I should file the top of piece C3 on step 3, but it doesn´t say how much or for what, can someone who has already build this model tell me how much plastic should I remove from this piece and why? Same thing goes for step 20, I´m told to sand the bombracks, but for what? Here are the instructions from Scalemates: https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/2/6/9/239269-81-instructions.pdf Thanks in advance.
  15. Revell A320 with decals from @RICHW for Monarch and is the aircraft my wife and I flew back on from Venice. Thanks for looking. Steve
  16. Another couple of 1/32 scale Spitfires. Firstly the old 1/32 Hasegawa MkVb in the "Nightfighter" boxing. Quite an old kit but builds up nicely. Finished in the markings of 111sqn W3848 JU-H based at Debden. Sprayed overall black using salt as mask for the chipped paint. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. Next is Revell's newish Mk.IX finished as MJ250 UF-Q of 601Sqn based in Italy in 1944. Nice kit but has some odd omissions and errors, no seat armour for example. Revell show this aircraft as having clipped wings, which I have done, but others seem to think it had standard wings. Clipped wings were relatively unusual on Mk.IXs. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14.
  17. Hello all this is my 1/48th Revellogram F-102 Deuce. When i came back to modeling in 2014 i searched high and low for one of these. It became my proverbial “unicorn” model. I was so happy when Revell repopped these last year. I had bought the decals two years prior in anticipation of finding a kit. The Decals represent a Deuce from the 431st Fighter Squadron SAC Zaragoza Spain in 1961. Without further talk i present to you my deuce. A photo with my N.A. F-100D an original Monogram release. That makes 3 of 6 Centuries that i need for my collection. I already have an F-104 in my collection. I just need a VooDoo, Thud, & Dart to finish of the series. Here’s a link to the build if you're curious. Please feel free to Question, comment, or joke ? Dennis
  18. Hi guys. Seeing as my Hunter bits still arent here for the 60s NATO GB I may as well make a start with this and get my hand back in. Its Revells 1/48 Jaguar GR3, same as the Airfix et all offering but with decent decals. This one seems to be of the lesser warped variety which is nice, but I have plenty of filler on stand-by never the less.... Extras include a resin seat, the relevant decals (second sheet stashed to cover the serial number error), a Sea Eagle missile that was kindly donated for the build, resin nose and a resin Harpoon missile that might be a little Whifi for these camo colours/period, but think Ill be building it anyway for display next to the model for myself outside of the whole GB just to be sure Im good with rules etc. Pretty sure I had some weighted wheels too, they may or may not turn up. The evidence/victims: And the very, very familiar state of affairs: Apologies for the rough photos, my phone is pants and my camera has done a runner it seems. I will get that sorted for future posts. There. Committed! Good luck all! Rob
  19. Type VIIC/41 U-Boat Revell 1:350 Type VIIC/41 was a slightly modified version of the successful VIIC and had basically the same engine layout and power. Armament was the same with 5 torpedo tubes (4 at the bow and one at the stern). The biggest difference was that these boats had a stronger pressure hull giving them more depth to evade attack under (operational 120m and crush depth at 250m against VIIC's 100/200). They also had lighter machinery to compensate for the added steel in the hull making them actually slightly lighter than the VIIC. All the type VIIC/41 boats from U-1271 onwards had the mine fittings deleted. The Model The model comes in the new, glossy, but otherwise standard Revell end opening box with a picture of a submarine at sea on the front. Inside there is one large sprue, one small sprue and the two hull halves and deck, all in a medium grey styrene. The moulding on all parts is nicely done, with the vent holes and other detail on the hulls looking really nice. Being a submarine, construction is pretty simple as can be seen by the number of sprues. The build starts with the two hull halves being joined together followed by the deck. The foreplanes are then attached, as are the prop shafts, with integrally moulded fairing and A frame supports, then the propellers themselves. The sternplanes are then fitted, along with the rudders and rudder frame. The tower is assembled from two halves, the command deck, 20mm gun deck and the 37mm gun deck. The foreward periscope is then fitted, followed by the two piece 37mm cannon, and the two twin 20mm cannon are fitted. The main attack periscope is the attached, along with the railings around the 20mm gun deck and the 37mm bandstand. The tower is then glued to the deck, as are the fore and aft mounted guard rails and the snorkel in the raised position. The model is then affixed to the display stand. Decals The single sheet of decals provides markings for U998 and U1004, which also includes the ensign, (without swastika). The decals are nicely produced win good register and slightly matt. The paint schemes though, shows them with the yellow stripe on the tower depicting that they were being used in the training squadron. Leave this off if you want to depict her as an operational boat. Conclusion This is a very nice model of an late U-Boat from a time when Germany was improving all their U-Boat forces. The diminutive size of the completed model means it won’t take up much space in the cabinet. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
  20. Good evening everyone, I thought it might be worth shifting my attempt at the RAF Centenary Groupbuild to the WIP area, seeing as I never had chance of meeting the deadline! (The build can be found by clicking here) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- So, To bring everyone up to speed: -I plan to build a representation of the Panavia Tornado ZA326 in its iconic raspberry ripple colours. I'll be using the 1:32 Tornado GR1 kit from Revell and an abundance of plasticard, to model her with a plethora of panels open (nose, side electronics bays, ground equipment connection points, the spine, and maybe even an open engine bay!) Here are a few select images which visually describe the process so far: (Note that the paintwork on bits and bobs has been tidied up since these images were taken) What's the plan of action going forward, then? -Nose electronics bay -Nose hinge and detailing -Cockpit wiring -Fuselage panels and internal gubbins -Fuselage rescribing (+rivets, should they be required) -Engine bay (there might be a bit of a surprise in that regard, stay tuned!) -Wings -Other (landing gear, etc) It will be a slow (I've got a summer placement in a research lab at my university) but hopefully steady project. As for references that I'll be using: The good General's own Tornado build The Tornado SIG The ZA326 group's Flickr Stay tuned for more! Best wishes, Sam
  21. Hello All, Attached are some pictures of the start of my Revell Halifax build. I expect this one to go as long as the B-17, about 15 months. I usually build multiple kits at a time so that extends projects but 15 months is actual time...I'm kind of slow when it comes to larger projects. I am using Eduards Big Ed set. A first for me. I'm not much into photo-etch so we'll see how it goes. Also....the Revell boxes.....well how can I put this without being vulgar......are HORRIBLE. Well in any case the kit has been washed of mold release and I started on the cockpit area. Well here we go mates on with the pics. All the Best! Don The kit seat has been highly modified. The photo-etched for the seat was not what I thought would be a good representation so I went for this method. The floor board is photo-etched which looks fantastic. The cockpit bulkhead at the start of detailing. Rolling the metal was easy if you have a nice set of round end tweezers. There's suppose to be a metal shelving bracket around the two rectangular boxes...it did not fit. This is not uncommon with photo-etched parts in my experience. I'll make an alternative or of bits of plastic.
  22. Hi, Here are a few photos of my latest model, Revell's Lancaster B III in 1/72 scale dressed in the livery of a 50 Squadron machine which took part in such raids as Peenemunde, Hamburg and Berlin during mid 1943. It took a while to build, approx 5 months but went together beautifully and a thoroughly recommended model. I hope you like it, Russ
  23. Hi everyone this is my first post on here (I accidentally posted this on the wrong discussion earlier but haven't found a way to remove the post) and I thought I'd share my first build in years. Revells 1/48 Tornado Gr4. It's thankfully gone together with no issues, I was assuming it was going to be a headache but so far so good! Also if anyone has any tips on highlighting panel lines or weathering in general I'm all ears as I'm useless at it. Also can anyone recommend a good clear matt? Ive tried Humbrol and Mr Colour and they even after being stirred thoroughly were coming out gloss. Any info would be appreciated.
  24. A few years ago when contemplating getting back into modelling, after being asked what I fancied for Christmas off my youngest daughter, I received the then newish tooling of the Revell 1/72nd merlin powered Halifax. I read about the shortcomings in the engine department but wasn't too bothered, but saw an AML upgrade set cheapish on a well known auction site so bought that. I'm going to do one of the decal options in the AML set, L9613. I noted having to open the large side windows and filling in some of the small round windows, but also there is a square side window behind the triangular one on the starboard side nose, a mirror of the port side. The kit does not have this option, but it's no great hardship to do the opening. However, I've trawled the internet and cannot find a single photo of an early Halifax with this other square window on the starboard side, just the port side, as per the kit. The only photo I came across of L9613 is of the port side. Is this an error in the AML drawings? The other decal option, BB340, has the same extra square window. Just out of interest I looked through the Xtradecal sheets and the only aircraft with this starboard side square nose window was a B Mk 1 special. Can anyone help? Was this a feature on some early Halifax's? Normally I would have probably built it as per the kit, but want to 'get it right', well, as much as possible. Sorry for the long post for a simple question. Davey.
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