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Found 1,510 results

  1. Hello all, I just noticed, that I have no instructions of my 1/32 Hawker Hunter from Revell (04703), first edition. Unfortunately, Revell offers only the instructions of the re-edition as download. The first edition from 1998 has more decal options and the numbering of the stencils is completely different. Maybe some of you could provide a scan, or could mail me the instructions. This is the box art of which I need the instructions: Thanks, Thomas
  2. Just finished this one today. Not a bad kit considering it's 40 year age!! All that was required was a quick rescribe. Not much filler either which was a pleasant surprise! Paint used was Hataka in the main with Alclad Kleer Kote Flat to finish. Hope you like it!
  3. Hi all and here's my last finish for 2018. I built this one OOB as part of a 'Secret' GB on a Facebook modelling group page - the rules were simple; you couldn't tell or show anyone what you were building! That worked fine for me as the kit was a Christmas present for my neighbour who's a relation of Sir Ernest Shackleton. I wanted to say thanks for all his help during the year (taking in parcel deliveries when we're not home/cutting our verge to name just two) and thought this would be nicer than a bottle of wine. I dropped the kit around to him on Christmas night and he was absolutely gobsmacked with it - he never knew there was a plane named after his famous relative. He was like a big kid, asking me all about the kit and the hobby. Overall, the kit fitted together nicely and the wing spar gives a really strong, positive wing-to-fuselage join. The decals were great but some of the instruction steps could be clearer. e.g. for the props which meant the spinners aren't 100% flush. Also, the u/c parts could be a lot simpler - trying to align 5 parts with their mounting holes was a But she looks like a Shackleton and I'm happy how it turned out. And building for someone else was great fun too. Revell_Shackleton_AEW_2_ (1) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_Shackleton_AEW_2_ (2) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_Shackleton_AEW_2_ (3) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_Shackleton_AEW_2_ (4) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_Shackleton_AEW_2_(8) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_Shackleton_AEW_2_ (6) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_Shackleton_AEW_2_ (7) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Thanks for looking and have a very Happy Christmas. Dermot
  4. Hi Everyone, i have seen the Ford GT Le Mans from Revell and it has a lot of issues (as any Revell kit). It has awful plastics, not so good details, thickness (on the rear diffuser wings in particular), and wheels too small. Then i saw Tamiya will release a road version of the same car. Detail and precision we all know that will be top notch, as usual (it costs almost twice the price..). I am here wondering if, in you opinion, there could be a chance that Tamiya will release a Le Mans version too. And if someone has Revell kit can make a wip? Thanks and regards
  5. Hi all, My last build for 2018 is a Revell 1/72 Boeing B-17F which I have finished as an RAF Fortress Mk.II operated by 206 Squadron in June 1943, in fact on 11th June whilst flown by Wing Commander R.B. Thomson she attacked and sank U-417 South East of Iceland but was herself brought down by return fire from the U-boat. All the crrew of the B-17 were rescued 3 days later by an RAF Catalina after a US Catalina crashed trying to rescue them, the US crew were rescued a few days later. The Revell kit is excellent and has great interior detail from the box but I have had to scratch build the ASV aerials for the nose and under the wings from brass rod, they are not perfect but they look okay to me. I used decals by DK Decals which are excellent and went on with no issues at all, I just wish their instruction sheets were bigger! Anyway enough waffle here are the pics; I've built this as part of the ongoing (and excellent) B-17 STGB which you need to check out as there are some great builds going on there. For those of you interested here is a link to my build; Thanks for looking in and as usual all comments and criticisms are gratefully received. A Happy New Year to you all. Craig.
  6. Hi everyone, and happy upcoming new year! First time modeller, new member. Wanted to share this out of the box build using the simplest tool setup I could find on a side-table in my uni room. Kit went together just using the Revell contacta glue, Revell aqua color paints thinned with tap-water, and a £5 brush pack. Decals were applied using Revell's decal fix to form around the detail. For a first attempt, actually quite happy with the result, definitely inspires to keep going! Next step might be to use some Milliput superfine putty for the gaps, and use Revell's Aqua color mix for the thinning as opposed to tap-water. Looking to stick to brushpainting with acrylics, personally think it might be more enjoyable and much easier to setup/maintain, you can listen to music while you're at it without a rattling compressor nearby, not to mention I've seen some astounding results with them like the works of @PlaStix here on the forums. Looking forward to all the feedback!! Cheers, Ed.
  7. Joining you with this Revell B-17F kit. Here are the parts still in bags. Instructions and decals. I'll be building this option Shamrock Special As can be seen, I've copied the boxtop flap idea from my B-17G colleagues.
  8. USS New Jersey, Platinum Edition 1:350 Revell The USS New Jersey, a 45,000-ton Iowa class battleship, was built at the Philadelphia Navy Yard, Pennsylvania. Commissioned in May 1943, she spent the rest of that year in the western Atlantic and Caribbean area. New Jersey went to the Pacific in early 1944 and conducted her first combat operations in support of the Marshalls invasion. She was Fifth Fleet flagship during the mid-February raid on the Japanese base at Truk, where she used her guns to sink one enemy ship and join in sinking another. Through the rest of 1944, she took part in raids on Japanese-held islands, the Marianas invasion and Battle of Philippine Sea, the Battle of Leyte Gulf and operations against the Philippines. From August 1944, she was flagship of Admiral William F. Halsey's Third Fleet. The New Jersey continued her Pacific combat operations into 1945, supporting the invasions of Iwo Jima and the Ryukyus. Following overhaul, she again became Fifth Fleet flagship during the final days of World War II and remained in the Far East until early 1946. She then went to the Atlantic in 1947 and made one midshipmen's training cruise to Europe before decommissioning in June 1948. The Korean War brought the New Jersey back into commission in November 1950. Two Korean combat tours in 1951 and 1953 were punctuated by a European cruise in the Summer of 1952. After returning home from the western Pacific in late 1953, New Jersey operated in the Atlantic. She deployed to Mediterranean and European waters twice in 1955-56 and was placed out of commission in August 1957. During the Vietnam war USS New Jersey was the only battleship recalled to duty. She recommissioned in April 1968 and arrived off Southeast Asia in September. From then until April 1969, she conducted frequent bombardments along the South Vietnamese coast. But, whilst preparing for a second Vietnam tour, she was ordered inactivated and decommissioned in December 1969. The early 1980s defence build-up produced a fourth active period for the New Jersey, beginning with her recommissioning after an extensive refit, which saw the mounting of cruise missile boxes, harpoon launchers and Vulcan Phalanx CIWS in December 1982. She again fired her big guns in combat during the Lebanon crisis of 1983-84 and deployed to the western Pacific in 1986 and 1989-90, with the latter cruise extending to the Persian Gulf area. Decommissioned again in February 1991, USS New Jersey was towed from the Pacific to the Atlantic in 1999. She is since become a museum at Camden, New Jersey. The Model Originally released by Revell in 2000 and re-released in 2002 this kit appears older than it really is with quite a lot of flash and extraneous moulding stubs. The original kit looks like it was meant to have been motorised at some point as all the mountings are still extant. When released it wasnt exactly the best produced model of the New Jersey, that accolade went to the Tamiya kit, but it was pretty accurate. In this Platinum release Revell have included lots of goodies to try and bring the kit up to date including wooden decks, etched metal parts plus turned brass barrels and masts. Once cleaned up and the areas which fall short of todays standards removed, the additional parts really bring the model up to a good standard with lots of fine details and accurate shapes. The completed kit on shop at Scale Model World in Telford showed how good it could look. With the appropriate care, patience and time the model could meet almost museum standards. The major hurdle in building the kit is the way the instructions are presented. The original kit instructions have not been altered in any way. Instead the assembly and fitting of the etched and turned parts are provided on three A3 double sided sheets, so a lot of toing and froing will be required to ensure the correct assemblies and parts are fitted to their respective positions, which could get quite frustrating. It might be an idea to go through all the instructions first and mark on the main booklet where the additional parts need to go, so that none are missed or you find that something needs to be removed and youve got to the point where it will be awkward to do so. The standard build starts with the some areas on the single piece hull being removed. Dont forget to add the strengthening beams that were a feature of this commission, along the hull sides before painting. This is followed by the assembly of the three main gun turrets which consist of the mounting, upper turret, the three barrels, rangefinder housings and hatches. With the addition of the etched parts and brass barrels these turrets are transformed. The three barrels are now meant to be fitted to the main deck with locking piece fitted from the underside so that they turn. This is a toy like feature which I feel is unnecessary and will cause problems later in the build, so leave them off until the painting and wooden deck are fitted. What you can do is fit the main deck to the hull and once the propellers, their shafts and the rudders are fitted I would paint the hull and deck furniture, fit the wooden deck, and then put the assembly to one side whilst the rest of the parts are constructed. Attention is now focused on the main single piece superstructure section onto which the superstructure sides are attached. Now there is quite a bit of flash on these parts so a good clean up is called for before fitting. Dont forget to check with the etch instruction sheets as quite a few splinter shields and the like need to be removed, to be replaced by the etched brass parts. This goes for the whole superstructure, bridge and foremast, including the aerials, radars, funnels and main gun directors. In fact there is an awful lot of work to be done when building all these assemblies, but it will be worth it. The whole of the top of the foremast is in fact replaced with brass, the highlight being the super complex SPS-49 and AN/SPS 10 radar arrays. The kit funnels come with solid tops, so these need to be drilled out and carefully cut away and filed before the new caps can be fitted. The instructions have very clear diagrams showing how to do this. With the main fore and aft superstructure assembled and spruced up its on to the other weapon systems where again extensive use of the PE improves the look of the Harpoon and Cruise missile systems. The only downside is that the Vulcan Phalanx systems do not get any treatment and really could do with replacing with more accurate aftermarket parts. With this build you might as well go the whole hog and make the best model you can. The five inch gun turrets are improved with the addition of the turned barrels, etched ladders and doors. There is so much additional detail included in this kit that its difficult to explain it all, suffice to say that everything from the ships boats crutches, ensign and jack staffs are replaced. I particularly like the treatment the Refuelling At Sea boom gets, with replacement fixtures and the addition of the fuel hoses dangling down. The boats davits are also given an overhaul with the addition of the downhauls, access ladders and blocks. Even the Seahawk helicopters are given the etch treatment, with new undercarriage, rotors, both folded and spread, swash plates and pitch controls. Once the wooden decks are laid there are numerous deck hatches, windlasses and other fittings to add. Finally a full set of railings for the whole ship are included, including the flightdeck netting and blackned chain for the anchors. Decals The single decal sheet contains the ships name plaques, identification numbers, awards, and the whole of the faintail flightdeck with the correct markings. The helicopters also get national markings and Navy titling. There are several decals for certain sensors, but I think these would better painted. They seem pretty well printed, with good density and with minimal carrier film, but the larger items will probably need some softener or setting solution to settle them down nicely. There is also a paper sheet with code/signal flags should you wish to add them. Conclusion From a pretty ropey looking kit, certainly on initial inspection I think Revell have really turned this one around with the addition of the etched parts, turned brass and the wooden deck. It has the potential to build into an outstanding model given the appropriate care and attention. Yes it will take some work, and definitely one for a seasoned modeller not a beginner. Very highly recommended Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  9. Finished about 30mins ago, so please don't touch the paintwork yet, OK ? Not the best fitting or most detailed kit, but as a car it's utterly jaw-dropping !. Please feel free as ever to ask any questions, make any comments or add any criticism. Next car build will probably be another RoG kit, either a 599 or a McLaren. AFN Ian.
  10. I have managed to find the original thread that I had started for this build over in the WIP section, and I am ashamed to say that this has been sitting around the bench since October 2016. During that time it has suffered some minor damage - losing the tail from one of the wingtip launch rails, so that will need a bit of repair work. Here's a link to the build progress I had made. This is how things have stood over the past two years. by John L, on Flickr I made a bit of a restart last night by painting the undercarriage bays, inner areas of the doors, legs and wheels. by John L, on Flickr This shouldn't take too long to complete, then I can get started on the 1/144 Eurofighter.
  11. Hallo everybody, I started a new project, Eurofighter Typhoon with a lovely tail art. I used Revell's Tiger Day version, decals from ModelMaker and PE set from Eduard. So far I find the kit not as precise in fitting like many modern kits. Well, I don't know better kit in this scale anyway and Tiger was a bargain! K.
  12. Lightning McQueen 1:24 Revell Easy Click System (07813) Lightning McQueen is one of the animated stars of the Disney/Pixar Cars films. He is not named after actor and race driver Steve McQueen but after Pixar animator Glenn McQueen who dies in 2002. The design is primarily a stock car with a bit of Le Mans car thrown in with so Ford Gt40 as well. The Kit Revell have the license for Disney model kits in Europe and the West, and it's good to see them back in action after recent problems resulted in a new management as well as ownership of the company. The car is made using Revell's easy click system which means no glue is needed, but the parts will still need to be removed from the spures which is probably why its aimed at ages 10 and upwards. As well as the red body shell there are 11 sprues of different coloured plastics and 4 rubber tyres. Construction is fairly simple as you would imagine. The engine is first built up and this is added onto a sub frame part. The main underside is then fitted. At the front the radiator is fitted along with the front brake discs and calipers. the front tyres then go on. Inside of the main body shell the grill and solid windows are fitted. The main chassis of the car can then be fitted to the body shell. The rear axle and drive shaft are then built up and added along with the exhausts. The rear tyres are fitted as well as the rear valance and bonnet. Markings Markings are provided for the car as seen in the film. These are provided as both waterslide decals for the serious modeller and stickers for the younger ones. Conclusion Marvellous! some fun for the younger modeller, pr maybe even the older one . This should be a good way to introduce the younger generations to modelling. Recommended, and lots of fun! Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  13. https://photos.app.goo.gl/qHVqy5e3sPn6poHV9 https://photos.app.goo.gl/GWK1qHp1wCzw36ZF8 https://photos.app.goo.gl/CPzba9gAnfmKDs9g7 My latest progress, I will hopefully get more done this weekend
  14. Hi all, I've been here a few weeks now and though it was about time I showed you what I'm up to. I've very fond memories of watching Star Trek (TOS) as a kid in the 80's with my dad and my brother and it's one of the few things that has really stuck with me through changing times. The Enterprise itself I find mesmerising, it's graceful and each part of the ship has a clear purpose, a design classic and I love it. My favourite itteration has to be the refit, which I hope to build at some point in the future So, I got in to modelling because I wanted a decent model Enterprise, I've had a few very small die-cast models but they are always lacking something. I found the Revell kit online and decided that I'd build my own, LED lights and all. Now I've well and truly got the modelling bug, I've bought the Star Trek Starship Voyager for my next model, I've built a small Star Destroyer and plan to build models from Battlestar and other Star Trek models Here's some photos that I took while building my Enterprise, I wasnt originally planning on posting them online but then I found this place, so here it goes! 1. What a great start, I ruined my first model! I wanted to light my model with LEDs, so it had to be light-proofed. So the insides of the model had a coat of adhesion promoter, followed by black, then a silver or while coat would be painted to make it reflective. I was watching lots of Boyd's Trekworks Youtube videos for info and he used a heat gun on a gentle heat to aid the drying process.... I'll never do that again, my model melted You can see the plastic deformation from the heat in this image. It also shows my initial plan for lighting, which was to cover all windows with grease-proof paper, which diffuses the light, then placing LED's around the ship to light them up. 2. Saucer section interior is about ready So after buys a replacement model I started again, with a few important lessons learned This image shows the insides of the saucer section, painted and with the windows covered. I used 'Revell Contacta Liquid Special' to glue the clear windows in place, and to glue the greese-proof paper in place. The secondary hull, again with the inside prepared for lighting, it's had a black coat followed by a light coat to refelct the light. By this time I'd also started experimenting with LEDs, the breadboard in this photo had a 555 Timer chip and a 4017 Decade counter, they'll be used for the rotating lights of the Warp Nacells and the blinking navigation lights. 4.Let there be light! Not sure of the best positioning and arrangement of LEDs I just dove in with something that looked like it would give good coverage. I know some people use fewer but brighter LEDs, and some use LED tape/strips, which I might look at using in the future. Each LED has a resistor attached, and they're all in parallel, so if one should fail the others will continue to work. 5. Glue. After lighting the secondary hull in a similar way I was ready to glue a few parts together. Which I was pretty worried about as I considered it opportunity to ruin yet another model. I used Revel Contacta Professional glue and found my fears were unfounded, thankfully 6. Circuits To light this model I would need to build some circuits to handle the navigation lights and the rotating buzzard collector effects. So I bought the relevant gear from Maplin (I now use RS instead) and designed a few circuits in Pad2Pad, which is excellent free circuit design software. The first completed circuit was for the navigation lights, I was initially planning to put it inside the model but then decided I would fit it in the stand instead. 7. Warp Nacell Test #1 You saw my breadboard with a few components in an earlier photo. This is basically how the Buzzard Collector effect works on my model, The red, orange and green LEDs are aranged in a circle and give the impression of rotation. 8.Warp Nacell Circuit fitting After designing my Warp Nacell circuit in Pad2Pad, I printed it off, cut it out and placed it in it's intended final position to make sure it would fit. The circular plastic piece has holes drilled in it to receive the LEDs, 12 of them (for a single Nacell). 9. Assembled Warp Nacell Board After building the warp nacell board I fit it in place. Now you can also see how the LEDs sit. It's a pretty tight space so I was pleased that everything went in with no problems In the video below, the middle light isnt connected to any power, it will eventually be 'always-on' to provide a steady red glow. The camera doesnt really do the below any justice. 10. Closed up my first Warp Necell - and made my second big mistake It's amazing isnt it that you can do something, then the instant you finish you realise you've done it wrong. I guess it's not really that big a deal, the model isn't completely accurate anyway and I'd already decided that I would'nt worry about that this time. But this mistake was easily avoidably, yet at the crutial point I... put the wrong circuit in the wrong nacell, so the buzzard collectors now spin in the wrong direction. Only a Trek fan would notice, but it's annoying all the same. Still, after much grumpiness I think I can live with it. 11. Connecting the Pylons and the Seconday Hull. I'd already glued the warp nacells to the support pylons and let those set, I'd also done some work on removing the seams on all the parts glued so far. Now it was time to connect the wiring up and glue them to the secondary hull. With the wiring connected and the pylons glued on to the secondary hull, it looked like the area would be under a fair bit of stress, so I stuck a clamp in place to hold things together while they set. 12. Windows, I hate Windows I bought some masking fluid so that I could mask the windows, but found it to be far to imprecise and the results (of tests I did on my melted saucer section) were pretty messy. So after getting some advice right here on Britmodeller (thanks guys, you know who you are) I settled on masking the windows with masking tape. I used a scalpal to cut small rectangles working on one at a time. It took ages. I have used the masking fluid on a few of the larger clear pieces, but I'm still not impressed with the result, maybe I just need more practice with it! 13. All Masked, Time for the Primer With all the clear parts masked I bought myself a 'lazy suzan' and gave the entire ship a coat of Hycote Adhesion Promoter and then a nice coat of Hycote grey primer. No way was I going anywhere near this thing with a heat gun The wires you see here will eventually be fed through the stand in to the base. I found the Hycote cans give excellent fast coverage, pretty cheep too. 14. Base Color With the primer dry it was time to start mixing colours (as per the model instructions) and giving it some proper color. I used a 'Sparmax Arism Mini' Airbrush to spray the model, with Revel Aqua Color paints. I found that thinning the paint 2-parts paint to 1-part thinner worked pretty well. I'd aslo sprayed the deflector dish, I love that copper colour and started giving the warp nacell and impulse engines some colour. I was having trouble cutting the masking tape perfectly to cover the inside of the impulse engines, so decided to try the masking fluid. The result was not great but I think It'll look fine if I touch it up with a brush. So, that's my model so far. It's the first model I've ever build and while I've found it quite challenging I've really enjoyed it and plan to do many more in the future. I'll post more photos and videos as I make more progress. And thanks to everyone here for accepting me in to the site and giving me some great tips! Cheers
  15. SMS Dresden and Emden Revell 1/350 During the FIRST WORLD WAR - two of the Imperial German Navy's "light cruisers", SMS Dresden and SMS Emden waged a trade war against British ships far from home. The Dresden initially operated off the East Coast of South America and the Emden in the Indian Ocean. In order to avoid British Warships the Dresden made its way into the Pacific to join the German East Asia Squadron. In the first naval battle of the First World War, a Royal Navy Squadron was able to narrowly avoid defeat in an action in which two British Warships were sunk. The subsequent attack on Port Stanley in the Falkland Islands failed however and all the German ships except the Dresden were lost. Crippled the Dresden hid in bays around the South of Chile until 14 March 1915 when she was discovered by three British warships and fired upon. The Captain decided to scuttle his ship. The Emden however, cleverly avoided enemy contact and was thus able to destroy the Oil Storage Unit at Madras. During later actions, two small British cruisers and many merchant ships also fell victim to the Emden. The Emden was however, rendered unfit for action whilst under fire from the Australian cruiser Sydney on its way to the Coco Islands (early in November 1914). The captain was forced to run his ship aground in order to prevent her sinking. Later as a special commendation, all surviving crew members were permitted to bear the additional title "Emden". The model Originally released on their own, the SMS Emden in 1994 and the Dresden in 1996, both were well regarded kits at the time. Since their original release they have been re-popped a couple of times, but this is the first time that they have been released together in a kind of box set. Inside the deep end opening and rather feeble box you find two poly bags each with a complete kit inside. There is no other protection for the parts but they don’t seem to have suffered any damage, just a few parts have come adrift from the sprues. The 4 sprues, two hull halves and separate main deck part of rather odd greeny grey styrene appear to have been well moulded, with no sign of flash, but with quite a few moulding, (overrun), pips on the smaller parts. Detail is nicely done with some very fine engraved plate lines and open portholes, which could need some backing to avoid see through issues. The wooden decks though are a little disappointing in that they seem way out of scale, with the grain looking something more akin to the wooden dashboards you find in some cars, so probably best to get a nice real wood deck from the likes of Artwox or Pontos. The rest of the parts look good and even the gun barrels are nice and slim, but you could always change them for brass items should you wish. Apart from the lower rear hull around the props there isn’t any discernible difference between the kits, so if you were to waterline the hulls, the parts used would be exactly the same. If displaying them in full hull configuration then you would notice that the Dresden has four screws whilst the Emden only has two. With that fact now known the build described below will be for the Dresden, but can easily be used to describe the Emden build with the only difference being the colour scheme. The build begins with the fitting of the longitudinal bulkheads onto the main deck structures foreward and amidships along with the addition of the capstans, bollards and deckhouse vents. The bridge consists of two halves, which when joined together are fitted to the single piece bridge wing section and topped off with the roof and binnacle. Each of the gun turrets are also in two halves, with the gun barrel incorporated into one half and just need joining together to complete. Each of the three funnels are made up of port and starboard parts along with a separate funnel cap. The gun turrets are then mounted onto their main deck positions and held in place with a small washer from beneath. The same goes for the single piece unshielded guns. With the guns in place the bridge is now fitted. Before the main deck is attached to the hull two more open guns are fitted to separate decks parts in their casements beneath the main deck. The hull is then fitted with the bilge keels and the two propeller shaft panels, (as mentioned above, the only area that is different between the two ships), along with the propeller shafts, propellers, shaft supports and single rudder. With the main deck and hull structure assembled it’s on to the fitting out stage. Starting at the bow the ensign staff is attached, followed by the two anchors, breakwater, boat booms, complete with Jacobs’s ladders, casement hinged doors, which can be posed either open or closed up with the judicious use of a sharp knife, and finally the cleat boards for the halliards. The funnel assemblies are then glued into position and the amidships raised gangway attached to the port side of the funnels. An additional binnacle is fitted aft near to the emergency steering position and two vents are fitted amidships. The eight ships cutters and single steam pinnace, (with separate funnel/boiler section), are now shipped along with their respective davits and cradles, three boats each side amidships and one each side aft on the quarterdeck. Revell have kindly provided an accommodation ladder for those that will waterline the model and incorporate it into a diorama. There is another binnacle in a tub which sits on top of a four legged tower just aft of the rear funnel and the two ships wheels are joined together and mounted at the emergency steering position. The final section of the build is the construction of the two ships masts. The foremast is fitted with a platform on its foreward face about a third of the way up. This platform is then fitted with two searchlights. The main mast is of similar construction, but has a second platform half way between the searchlights and the deck. Each mast is stepped in position and the two ladders fitted between the main platforms and the deck. Each model is provided with two display stands, one of which is fitted with a plaque plate onto which the decal with the ships name is attached. There are a pair of very well drawn and clearly illustrated rigging plans provided, but I wouldn’t recommend using the black thread that Revel include in the kit, you really need something a lot finer and less furry. Decals The small decals sheet has the name of each ship to be fitted to the plaque plate along with the crests for bow and stern. There are some decal windows, presumably for the bridge and the ships name boards are also provided. The Dresden is also provided with one large ensign, whilst the Emden has one large and one battle ensign. The decals are nicely printed, with very little visible carrier film and in good register. Conclusion Nothing seems to have changed over the intervening years since these kits were first released and that includes the nice clean moulding. They are still very nice looking kits to build and should build up into good looking display models. There are a number of aftermarket etched sets and wooden decks should you really want to go to town on them and i think they deserve it. It would be great to see them displayed together in their different colour schemes. Highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  16. I was wanting to try some 3D weathering and opted to try Vallejo's Chipping Medium as the method. The subject is a 1/48 scale 1967 tool P47 Razorback from Revell. Although, this build was really just something of a 'test-bed' for my weathering self-tuition. I liked the end result and thought I'd share it with the forum.
  17. Next model coming close to finish. Made to go with the recent finish London Bus.
  18. Hi, Now with the F4U-4 is all but finished, its time to continue with my 'build two at any give time - if you want a chance in reducing the constantly growing stash' policy. This time I selected to tackle my first bomber / 2 engine plane. This build will be of a Revell A-26B I picked on eBay in a bag - literally in a bag. Some of the clear parts may indicate I have parts from two models. The bag did contain two copies of Instructions. I've put the bag in an old D-link modem box Decal sheet looks too yellow for comfort I may be looking for a decal sheet - any recommendation are welcomed. When I washed the parts and moved them to a box more easily accommodated on the bench - I've heard a small part falling - and the carpet monster got it Loosing a part even before I started - that's a first one.
  19. German Staff Car "G4" 1:72 Revell The Mercedes Benz W31 type G4 was a large, three-axle car designed specifically for use as a staff car by the Wehrmacht. Powered by an eight-cylinder inline engine, the cars weight an impressive 3.7 tonnes. Maximum speed was limited to 42mph as a result of the chunky all-terrain tyres. Just 57 cars of the seven-seater cars were produced, of which at least three exist in their original state. One is located in Hollywood and is regularly used for war films. The vehcle is, of course, most famous for being used by Adolf Hilter during parades and inspections. The front passenger seat could be folded in order to allow the front passenger to stand during such events. Inside the surprisingly large end-opening box is one large frame of grey plastic, a much smaller frame of the same, a small clear frame, three steel rods which are used as axles and a set of soft rubber tyres. A small decal sheet is also included. I had wondered whether this was a brand new kit from Revell, but on closer inspection it's clear that this is the ICM kit which was released in 2015 and marketed as a snap-fit model. This is no bad thing however, as the ICM kit is well-regarded and nicely detailed. Surface detail is clean and crisp, and first impressions are very favourable. The instruction omit any mention of snap-fit assembly, so presumably you need to crack open the glue before carrying on. Assembly begins with the interior and body. The rear seat and door trim is painted gloss black to represent a leather finish, and the reat seat itself, as well as the wind screen, are integral parts that join the sides of the body together. Once the body has been joined to the floorpan, the bonnet, instrument panel and radiator cover can be fitted in place. At this point the model can be flipped over and all of the mechanical detail can be added. The eight-cylinder engine is pretty good, although not the most detailed I've seen in this scale. The ladder chassis is moulded with the front wings in place, and the engine mounts into this part from the top. After this, the chassis can be glued to the body, with the engine sandwiched between the two. Now that the substantive part of the car is complete, the exhaust and the wheels can be added. As mentioned above, the axles are made from steel rod and will allow free movement of the wheels if fitted correctly. Presumably the tolerances will be tight enough to make supergluing these parts superfluous. If you're wondering why Revell supply eight tyres with the kit, it's because two of them are for the spare wheels that fit either side of the bonnet. finishing details include fitted luggage and the folding roof (in folded position; ICM released a separate version of the kit with the roof up). Small flag poles and nicely detailed headlights are also included. Two different options are provides for on the decal sheet. The first is for a Wehrmacht staff car based in Berlin in 1942. It is finished in the light grey and black scheme featured on the box artwork. The second option is for a vehicle located in France in 1941. As you might expect for a vehicle used in occupied territory, it is finished in a more sombre dark grey finish. The decal sheet is small but nicely printed, however the swastikas have been omitted from the flags for the usual legal reasons. Conclusion This was a great kit when it was first released and nothing much has changed since. It's strange that Revell don't mention the snap-fit origins of this kit as kits of this nature can be virtually impossible to test fit prior to assembly (at least without a high risk of breaking the parts when trying to separate them again) but overall this should be a nice kit to build. Highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  20. Hi everyone! Finally the next member of the Kartveli line-up is Ready For Inspection. Alexander Kartveli was, of course, the designer of types such as the SEV-3, P-35, F-84 series and the mighty F-105. This time, and as a side interest, I’ve gone for the Thunderbolt and, as is my way, it is in the markings of the Cuerpo de Aviación Militar Dominicana, the forerunner of the Fuerza Aerea Dominicana. She depicts aircraft number 1113 of a fleet that consisted of around 25 machines, operating from Trujillo Airbase. Most popularly these are illustrated and modelled as either 1124 or 1125 in the red trim, rather than the yellow shown on 1113. Again, my like for the more unusual led me to this scheme. Here is a grainy photo of her: Typically these machines were kept pretty clean. However, I’ve used a little “modeller’s licence” and finished her as I am sure she would have been after a few months of operations – a little grubby, particularly the yellow. She is an F-47D-30 and the base kit is the Revell boxing, which is a great kit to build. It is clean, easy and has ample detail. So, what did I do/use?: Kit – Revell P-47D-30 (04155) 1/72 Decals – Home printed serials and tail code, Mehusla YK-88-1 white stars, Carpena 72-28 national insignia and unit badge, Xtradecal white stripes, Kit decals for stencilling etc. Paints – overall Humbrol Metalcote H27002 with H32 Black anti-dazzle, H154 Insignia yellow, H27004 Metalcote Gunmetal, H189 Insignia Blue and H153 Insignia Red, plus Humbrol Satincote varnish. Paint mask – Montex 72001 Plastruct plastic rod for new pitot (corrected shape and the kit one was bent/broken) I hope you like here. Martin
  21. Hi Folks, this is my latest contribution, built straight out of the box the only addition being a couple of Revell Crew members. No real problem with the build other than when I joined the cockpit section to the main airframe, and to be honest that problem was caused by my fixation on hiding the join, if I had left it it would have just appeared as another panel line. I used Tamiya and Vallejo Acrylics and had another go at black basing, this time I was happier with the result. Overall an enjoyable build, as usual any comments, criticisms and observations are welcome and will be received in the same friendly manner in which I am sure they will offered. Thanks for looking.
  22. Hello, I'd like to present USS Voyager from Revell - just after finish. Painted as always with Tamiya and Mr.Hobby. Wash by AK. Despite decaling errors I'm happy with result
  23. Hi guys, this is my last finished model. This is very good Revell's Rafale C in 1/48 scale. The kit has been known for years. In this year Revell issued a re-release to build version C. This is very good kit, couple of problems during the build. I added a lead wire for imitation wires in the landing gears. I also add Eduard's Storm Sadow missiles and Eduard Rafale M painting masks. Model was painted with Gunze H, Tamiya and Vellejo paints (details in cockpit). Exhaust nozzle I painted the exhaust nozzles with Alclad Jet exhaust color.
  24. So a quick build of this little one for a Sci Fi GB elsewhere as my original kit entry (Bandai pocket Falcon) is still somewhere on a very slow boat from the far east The kit is Revell's 1/160 Slave One and is one of their Easy Kits (Snap fit to you and me). I cut off most of those lugs and glued it. After primer from a can, it's all brush painted with Revell Acrylics. Was my first time using Maskol for the chipping effect and I think it turned out ok. Flory Models wash and some random paint effects here and there. Revell_Slave_One_2 by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_Slave_One_1 by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_Slave_One_3 by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Some decal spares to brighten up Boba's instrument panel Revell_Slave_One_4 by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr The wings rotate which I managed not to mess up. Revell_Slave_One_6 by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr A good level of detail for the price and while it's no Bandai, I had plenty of fun with it. Will try to scratch up a landing pad for it soon. Revell_Slave_One_9 by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Thanks for looking! Dermot
  25. Dassault Mirage IIIE/RD/O Revell 1:32 History While the initial Mirage IIIC model was heading towards quantity production, Dassault promoted a long-range, all-weather air defense/strike fighter (multirole) variant of the design as the "Mirage IIIE". The prototype first flew on April 1st, 1961 and included a lengthened fuselage with increased avionics and fuel, a Marconi navigation radar, Radar Warning Receiver (RWR) and Cyrano II series air-ground radar. The Mirage IIIE was outfitted with the SNECMA Atar 09C series afterburning turbojet engine and a total of three prototypes furthered the endeavor prior to production. After adoption by the French Air Force, the IIIE was also licensed-produced in the countries of Australia, known as the Mirage IIIO(A), and Switzerland while fielded by the forces of Argentina, Brazil, Lebanon, Pakistan, South Africa, Spain and Venezuela under various export designations. French Air Force Mirage IIIE models were cleared for nuclear ordnance. As with other interceptor aircraft of the period, a dedicated reconnaissance variant soon emerged as the "Mirage IIIR". This variant offered the ground attack frames of the Mirage IIIE models with the avionics suite of the Mirage IIIC interceptor. They lacked radar under the nose cone and housed multiple cameras for photo-reconnaissance sorties instead. The Mirage IIIR was then improved through the "Mirage IIIRD" upgrade. Reconnaissance types were adopted outside of France by the forces of Israel, Pakistan, South Africa and Switzerland. The Model Originally released in 2016 by Italeri, Revell have now re-boxed the kit with new decals. The kit comes in a top opening box which is still incredibly flimsy, which showed by the fact that the review samples windscreen had been badly cracked. Inside there are six large sprues of grey styrene, one of clear and a large, colourful decal sheet. The moulding of the parts looks to very nice and fine, with no flash or other imperfections. Whilst quite detailed out of the box, there is plenty of room for extra, should the modeller wish. Construction begins with the assembly of the nine piece ejection seat with a choice of ejection handles on the head box. Although nice, the kit only comes with decal seatbelts, etched steal/brass or cloth would be much better, so you will have to resort to aftermarket items. The single piece cockpit tub is fitted out with a lower front bulkhead, alternative two piece instrument panels, depending on whether you are building the E/O or RD versions, joystick, and three piece coaming with optional head-up display. The upper rear bulkhead and sidewalls are then attached to the tub, followed by the three piece nose wheel bay, which is attached to the rear of the cockpit tub. The cockpit/bay assembly is then glued to the lower fuselage, which will also need some holes drilled depending on which version you are building. The main wheel bays are each made up from four parts, which are then glued into the lower fuselage. The full length intakes are each made from two halves, but in such a way that there shouldn’t be any seams to worry about. The rear sections of the intakes where they join is a single piece, which when all assembled allows the intakes to be fitted to a bulkhead which is then glued into one half of the upper fuselage. Strangely enough, the instructions then tell you to build the engine at this point, which is a very nice six piece assembly, as a standalone model itself, but could have been left till the end where its transport stand is also assembled. The fin is then assembled and again, the modeller has to drill out holes depending on the version they are building. The fuselage halves are then joined together, sandwiching the intakes in-between, after which the fin assembly is glued into place. Each wing, also requiring holes to be drilled out depending on version are each made up from upper and lower halves, but before joining them together the modeller has to fit the upper and lower airbrakes, outer main gear bays and main gear oleos. Clear lenses for the navigation lights are then attached. If you’re building the RD reconnaissance version then the camera nose needs to be assembled. Each of the four cameras are made from three parts including clear lenses. The rear nose bulkhead is then fitted with the camera platform onto which the cameras are then fitted. The lower camera bay hatch is fitted with clear ports, after which the nose halves are glued together with the bay in-between and a fifth camera in the extreme nose and the final clear parts to cover the ports. The bay hatch can either be posed in the open or closed position with support rams to hold it open should the modeller wish it. The upper and lower fuselage sections are glued together, followed by the fitting of the wing assemblies, intakes and either the RD or E/O nose sections having fitted 20g of nose weight just forward of the cockpit first. Now the rather confusing bit in the instructions, which show the engine assembly being slid into the exhaust orifice before the exhaust fairings and nozzle sections, yet in another diagram it shows the nozzle and fairing being fitted without the engine. So, it looks like you can either engine on the display stand or in the aircraft, yet there are no other details for the interior of the fuselage should you want to display it out. The wings are fitted with half of the flap and aileron actuator fairings, whilst the other half is fitted to the control surfaces. The main undercarriage assemblies are then completed with the addition of scissor links, actuators, outer doors and two piece wheels. The inner doors are fitted with separate hinges before being glued into place. The nose wheel is made up from thirteen parts not including the bay doors and once assembled is glued into position. In front of the nose wheel bay there is a bulged panel, which looks like a doppler panel, and depending on the version the modeller is building there is an option of two types. The build of the aircraft is completed by the fitting of the windscreen, canopy, which can be posed open or closed, various aerials, pitot probe and a nicely produced access ladder. The optional engine stand is then assembled from thirty six parts and will look great in a diorama setting. If you are building the E/O strike version then the kit comes with a wide selection of weapons to hang of the aircraft. These include the Matra R530 missile, 500 l, 1300l and 1700l drop tanks, JL 100R Rocket pods/fuel tanks, R550 Magic missiles, AIM-9B missiles, Matra AS37 Martel missiles, Barax pod, Barracuda pod and Phimat pods Decals The decals come on a large sheet and provide options for three aircraft. The decals look very nice, being in register, good colour density but with quite a matt/satin finish. Some of the decals are quite large and will probably need some softening and setting solutions to bed down correctly. The sheet also contains a full set of stencils and warning symbols for both the aircraft and the ordinance. The options are:- Mirage IIIE 3-XT “50 Years EC 3/3 Ardennes” Armee De L’air, BA133, Nancy-Ochey, 1993 Mirage IIIRD 33-TI ER 3/33 Moselle, Armee De L’air, BA124, Strasbourg-Entzheim, 1987 Mirage III0, A3-49, 3 Squadron, Royal Australian Air Force, Butterworth AB, Malaysia, 1983 Conclusion I never got to see the Italeri kit when it was first released, so it’s nice of Revell to re-box it. The kit does look very nice and will certainly look stunning in any collection, just a shame that you have to use the separate engine either on the stand or in the aircraft. It would have been nice to have a simpler tube just to fit in the aircraft. Not really knowing the subject I can only go by those who have reviewed the Italeri kit when it comes to accuracy and from what I’ve read it does measure up well with the real aircraft. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
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