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  1. After many, many years, I have returned to modelling, and, having learnt the art of patience, do not want to make a complete bottom of my models like I used to(!) My first build will be a Revell 1/32 Spitfire Mk22/24, and I will be airbrushing for the first time. I have read reviews concerning Lifecolor acrylic paints and would like to give them a try. However, I am having a few problems deciding on certain colours and I was hoping some one might be able to help. Most of the Revell colours listed in the instructions I can source as Lifecolor paints using one of the on line comparisons that are out there. However, there are a couple of blends that may have an equivalent Lifecolor match without having to do any mixing. The blends in question are: Revell Kit ID G, 40% matt black 8, 40% granite grey matt, and 20% aluminium metallic 99 Revell Kit ID H, 75% leather brown matt 84, 25% aluminium metallic 99 Revell Kit ID J, 33% yellow matt 15, 33% seagreen matt 48, and 34% stone grey matt 75 Revell Kit ID N, 60% blue matt 56, 40% mouse grey matt 47 If anyone has built this kit using Lifecolor paints I would be very interested in how you got on, and any advice on colour schemes in general for this build would be most gratefully received. Thanks in advance, Chris
  2. Thanks guys, this groupbuild is perfectly timed over the Xmas holidays season that i tend to enjoy with a bit of free days and modelling. It will present me with a good opportunity to finally complete my 1/72 Leeuwarden nightfighter base diorama that already houses three Me110's. http://www.britmodel...opic=25758&st=0 In references I have found that JG 27 was stationed here for a few months between march and june 1943 for Reichdefence duties with G4/R6 variants, the one without the Cannon bulges on the nose, with the heavy cannons underwing, hence the name Kanonenbote (Gunship) or Kanonenvogel. (Gunbird) Also nice to model the grey mottling camouflage with the colourful africa noseart of JG 27 that it became famous for. I plan to build six 109's to create a flightline with some basic groundsupport such as a filght command post. I'll building from existing G kits in the stash and rebuilding some gearless very old kits by stripping down to bares, do some mods, and disassemble to meet the 25% guideline. i'll be doing quite a bit of backdating from late G to early G to get the right G4. As one of the stash is a Russian Amodel Zwilling kit i will have a total of 5 fuselages, from which 4 will become complete aircraft, and the remaining one as a wingless rump in the hangar on the the diorama. The Zwilling is really a rough kit ... The sixth is a F model, that can also pass for a early G, also already made, and will be stripped down to components as well.. In the proces i will finally get to learn my G variants from G variants; a lack of insight i always wanted to resolve :-) For this GB i'll build it as a separate diorama, only to later graft it into the existing larger Leeuwarden diorama.
  3. I purchased the Freightdog conversion set for the Revell 1/32 Spitfire when it was first released but took some time to pluck up the courage to start it. The Revell base kit can be a bit challenging anyway as the parts breakdown for the wings is quite a strange design. Coupled with the 1970's moulding technology (this was originally produced by Matchbox) there is, shall we say, "room for improvement". Mods include, Freightdog resin conversion, Greymatters belly tank, Quickboost seat and Barracuda canopy handle from a set I bought for the Tamiya Spitfire XVI. Added detail to the wheel wells, replaced gear legs with brass tube, scratchbuilt details in the cockpit and built plasticard 'cameras' to prevent see through look in through the camera ports. WIP thread is here - http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=234931641&hl= I really think the Matchbox Spitfire makes a lovely looking model but I love the 'ultimate' Seafire and am very pleased to have one in 32nd scale. Overall a very enjoyable build and I'm very pleased with the result. There were a couple of errors on this build. I forgot to re-scribe the larger flap fitted to the Seafire and the spinner should have been EDSG on this aircraft, things I have to live with now. Need to check refs and instructions more carefully in the future, but I have learned from this. Regards, Steve.
  4. Hi everyone, and welcome to my first ever WIP thread. Its a return to modelling, after making and painting in a day or two - about 25 years ago! I am not going to make any apologies, but this is probably going to have a lot of photos in the thread, not only to document my progress as a first proper project, but also to allow myself to keep a record to identify areas I can improve upon, and develop further for future builds. So, onto the first details, the obligatory (from perusing the forum) box and sprue picture: Excuse the picture quality, I am going to blame photobucket for that. I am going to do an out of the box build on this, as its mainly, hopefully, a bit of a test run for doing my next project. Therefore this will be painted up in the colours as per the instructions, and decals will be the provided 27 Squadron 75th Anniversary markings
  5. OK - I've been slacking on Connie, the Ju 52 and the Lightning stuff - but I have been busy with this: It's, erm, a bit large to photograph on a kitchen worktop! Hopefully paint at the weekend Iain
  6. Calling this finished now. Revell kit with Eduard brass, HGW seatbelts, scratch built canopy. Catalpult is HpH resin with scratch built launching frame. Thanks for looking and Merry Xmas Nick
  7. USS New York LPD 21 Revell 1:350 The U.S.S. New York is a US Navy amphibious transport ship. It is one of the San Antonio Class designed according to the principles of stealth technology. The ships of this class are used for amphibious warfare and to transport US Marines, their vehicles and equipment. The ship therefore has three decks with about 2,300 m² of space for combat vehicles. In addition to the basic crew of 360 men there is room for further 700-800 marines. The landing craft, equipment and soldiers can be landed through the floodable well deck aft. In addition the ship has a large landing deck with hangar. However helicopters are not permanently carried, but can be temporarily stationed on board for individual missions. The special feature of the ship however is its name. After the terrorist attacks of 11th September 2001, the then governor of New York asked the then Secretary of the Navy to name a warship in the war against terror after the city of New York. This request was met; the U.S.S. New York was launched on 19th December 2007 and went into service on 7th November 2009. There were even 6.8 tonnes of steel from the ruins of the World Trade Center incorporated in the forepart. The Model Arriving at BM Towers this large kit comes in its own cardboard box. The kits box has a representation of the ship at sea with the various landing craft and aircraft around the ship, on the flightdeck and flying. Much like the USS Wasp and USS Iwo Jima this kit is released by Revell, MPC/Gallery and I believe Trumpeter for different markets around the world. As with the other ships, this was a pleasant surprise being somewhat a left field choice of ship model. That said it is very well done with beautifully crisp mouldings, particularly the large single piece hull, (well it is if you discount the separate bulbous bow), and main deck/superstructure parts. Other than the separate hull and deck section, there are 11 sprues of light grey styrene for the ship, six for the LCACs and LCU’s, and two for the AAVP-7s. Then there are twelve clear sprues for the air complement, a large display stand in black styrene, three sheets for PE and a length of brass coloured chain. In total there are 767 parts and the completed model measures out to 594mm in length. Including the builds for the helicopters, landing craft, Ospreys and AAVP-7s, there 125 steps in the instructions to complete the model. Unlike most ship builds, this one doesn’t start with the hull, but with the interior well/dock and vehicle decks. The well deck is built up of the bottom and two side pieces, which have very nice detail moulding of the wooden dock faces that some careful painting and weathering will really bring out. To the dock sides two marshalling platforms are added either side of the loading ramp. The vehicle deck and ramp assembly, which also includes the hanger deck, begins with the deck, three transverse bulkheads and two walkways being fitted together, followed by the rear bulkhead with walkway and vehicle ramp roof. This assembly is then attached to the rear of the well deck. Since not much of this detail will be visible through the small opening in the stern, it is crying out for some lighting to be added to the build, either fibre optic or LEDs, so some thought to this will be needed before putting glue to plastic. At this point the instructions call for the modeller to build several sub assemblies. These include the main crane for the ships centre section deck. The crane is built up of a five piece operators cabin, main boom arm, hook, and the five piece Low Observable housing, including three PE parts, into which the crane folds when not in use. The starboard side boat housing, consisting of a two part RIB, (two boats are required to be built), deck and internal box structure. Two RAM launchers are then assembled, with the missile box having two PE end pieces fitted, followed by the support arms and pedestals. With these done it’s back to the main build, with three internal strengthening bulkheads, and hawsepipe fitted to the forward hull, transom to the rear and the completed vehicle/dock assembly in-between. The RIB housing and another open deck port are then fitted to the inside of the starboard side of the main deck structure. Turning the main deck over, the after bulkhead of the forward superstructure is fitted with a PE grille and glued into position, as is the hanger bulkhead with its hanger door, (which has optional parts for open or closed doors), and the stores/ammunition lift door, after which the main deck can be attached to the hull section along with the foredeck. The upper dock door is then attached to the transom, along with a lower hull extension piece and the two piece lower door with its associated actuator arms. Although it might be an idea to leave these off until later in the build as there will be a tendency to knock them off. Turning the hull over the two bilge keels can be fitted as can the rudders prop shafts, A frame supports and propellers, depending on how the completed model is to be displayed, particularly in a diorama, these items can be left off unlike the two part bulb which is fitted to the bow. With the now completed hull upright the rest of the build continues with the superstructure and sundry fittings. The instructions have the modeller start at the aft end and moves forward. This means that there will be quite a few fragile pieces to knock off whilst carrying out with the build, whereas it may be better to start at the bow and work toward the stern. If keep with the instructions the catwalks around the flightdeck are fitted along with their PE railings, inclined ladders and styrene aerials, in either upright or folded options, plus several styrene catwalk fittings. To complete the flightdeck, the PE side netting is fitted. Several sub assemblies can also be built, including the two part large RIB and trolley, mid section deckhouse, grilles, mainmast bases and the mainmasts, with their top aerial arrays, railings, and other fittings. The side and front of the rear superstructure are then glued into place, as are several deck fittings, a RAM launcher, rear gun turret and deckhouse,. The small RIB built earlier is now attached to its trolley and fitted to the ships mid deck section with the large RIB/trolley, PE inclined ladders and further fittings. More sub assemblies to be built are four five piece decoy launchers and two, two piece launchers, the port side transverse bulkhead/side of the mid deck section with its additional supports roof part and door. Once completed, this assembly can also be fitted to the mid deck as can the crane built earlier. The two mainmast assemblies can now be glued into place on the upper decks, as are the multiple decoy launchers, PE railings, liferafts and their PE supports, funnel assemblies, satnav dome assemblies, deck houses, navigation radar, and bridge. On the sides of the bridge pair of platforms and ECM aerials are fitted. The deckhouse structure is then built up on the foredeck, directly in front of the bridge. To this, a RAM launcher is fitted along with a further deckhouse, front gun housing and gun turret. Finally the foredeck fittings, such as capstains, bitts, footplates, and capstain control shields are glued into place as are the anchors and anchor chains. With the ship completed, it’s on to the various helicopters and landing craft. Each of these is a little kit in themselves, with the following included:- 2 x AH-1W Cobras 2 x UH-1N Hueys 2 x MV-22 Ospreys 2 x CH-46E Sea Knights 2 x CH-53E Sea Stallions 2 x LCACs 2 x AAVP-7s 1 x LCU Each helicopter comes in multiple parts, with separate skids, wheels, folded or extended main rotor blades, tail rotors, and stabilisers. Whilst the Ospreys have a single piece fuselage, wing fairing, wing, horizontal tailplane, vertical stabilisers, engine nacelles, and props either folded or extended. It is doubtful that all these aircraft would be in use at the same time on this type of ship, but any surplus could be used on either the USS Wasp or USS Iwo Jima kits that Revell have also released. The LCU is built up of lower hull, shrouded props, tank deck, deck surround, loading ramp, five piece bridge structure, exhausts and several aerials. The two LCACs consist of a two part lower hull/skirt, tank deck, fore and aft loading ramps, port and starboard bridge structures, radar aerials, and exhausts. The shrouded fans fitted to the rear of the LCACs are made up with the fans, protective grilles, drive shafts, and twin deflectors/rudders. The AAVP-7s consist of an upper and lower hull, turret, and wheel/tracks. Decals There are three decal sheets included in the kit. One large one covering the ship, including the complex flightdeck markings, which come as separate strips and circles, so will need careful placement to get them all in the correct positions. The sheet also includes decals for the ships pennant number, fore and aft, danger circles for the RAM launchers, and guns, capstain tops, depth markers and ships name for the upper dock door. There is another large sheet providing all the decals required for the various helicopters, Osprey and landing craft, plus very large national flags, both in flat and wavy form. The smallest of the three sheets, only has five decals on it, which look like some form of crest and whilst the placement sheet shows where these go, it is as unclear as to be next to useless. Research shows that these are the Never Forget crests that were painted on the anchor plates and in front of the bulbous bow markings. They should only be used if the ship is to be modelled as she was at her commissioning ceremony. Conclusion Revell have done it again with their collaboration with MRC/Gallery and produced a very well designed model of an interesting class of ship. Whilst some purists may say the latest ships of the worlds navies are quite boring due to their “stealthy†characteristics, this is the way things are going and I think its great that model manufacturers are providing us with newer classes as well as older ones. With all the parts, etch, aircraft, and landing craft this will build into a great model and whilst it is full hull the open dock with full interior will give loads of scope to super detail and use in a diorama with the dock flooded. Not for the faint hearted for sure, but it has the potential to build into an award winning model. Highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
  8. Bell P-39 Airacobra Revell 1:32 The P-39 Airacobra was designed in 1937 in response to a tender by the U.S. Army Air Corps. In many respects the P-39 Airacobra was an unusual aircraft. The basic idea was to install a powerful engine as close as possible to the aircraft's centre of gravity in order to improve manoeuvrability and stability. An Oldsmobile T-9 37 mm cannon fired through an opening in the propeller spinner. The P-39 was the first American fighter to fitted with a freely rotating nose-wheel. The Airacobra also aroused interest in the British Air Force; the RAF however later rejected the aircraft. The Russian Air Force also expressed strong interest in the aircraft and initially took delivery of 179 units. The U.S. Army Corps also equipped some of its newly formed units with theP-39, including the 8th and 35th Fighter Groups which operated out of New Guinea. Often underrated in the West the P-39 proved to be an exceptional aircraft in the Far East. Its top speed of 580 km/h was sufficient to dominate an A6M Zero in a dogfight. The Model Originally released by Special Hobby this kit came with pre-painted etch, resin exhausts and gunsight. This Revell re-pop doesn’t come with these, but it shouldn’t really matter too much to the general modeller. The kit comes in the rather feeble end opening box which Revell seem determined to stick with. The box art is of P-39D Air A Cutie, with a rather comely naked lady on the nose, in flight over an island in the Pacific. Inside the box, there are 5 large, and 2 small sprues of light grey styrene and one small of clear. The parts are all well moulded with only a small amount of flash, there are a few moulding pips and some strengthening bars where needed. Panel lines are nicely engraved along with raised detail as per the real aircraft. Beginning the build with the nose wheel bay, which is made up of five parts to produce the bay and a further two parts that make up the rear bulkhead and rear bay roof, which is also the cockpit floor. The well detailed cockpit is made up of the forward bulkhead to which the rudder pedals are attached. This assembly is then fitted to the cockpit floor along with port control box. The instrument panel is made up of upper and lower instrument clusters and lower binnacle. The panel is attached to the floor, whilst the two machine gun breeches are fitted between the front bulkhead and upper IP. The control stick, rear bulkhead, seat supports, seat and rear decking complete the cockpit. Before fitting the cockpit to the fuselage, frame parts, control boxes and auxiliary intake interior are fitted. The cockpit is then fitted and the fuselage halves are closed up and the two part radio is fixed to the rear decking. From the fuselage to the wings, the upper and lower horizontal tailplane halves are joined together as are each of the primary control surfaces. The moving surfaces are then attached to the fixed in the desired position. The single piece lower wing has the radiator intakes and outlets are fitted, as are the outer main landing gear boxed units, the inners being moulded to the wing. The outer wings and ailerons can then be attached. The completed wing is then fitted to the fuselage, with the horizontal tailplane assemblies and rudder. At the front fuselage, the front upper decking piece, which includes the nose machine gun troughs, is fitted, once 50g of nose weight has been added. The nose gear, consisting of two wheel halves, main oleo, two part scissor link is fitted to the nose gear bay once the prop shaft and uplock are fitted. The retraction struts and actuator are then attached to the oleo, followed by the nosewheel doors. The main gears are made up of four piece wheels/tyres, outer doors and scissor links. These assemblies are then fitted to their respective bays which are finished off with the inner doors and actuators. Whilst the model is upside down the lower navigation lights, landing light and radiator outlet flaps are fitted as is the optional drop tank and associated sway braces. Flipping the model over the exhausts, each are made up of two halves, which could be a little problematical with cleaning up of the seams. The completed exhausts are then fitted with their outer panels. In the cockpit, the gunsight mount, gunsight and sighting glass are fitted, followed by the main canopy and the two doors which can be posed open if required. The final parts of the build are the addition of the nose and wing machine gun muzzles and pitot probe are glued into place. The propeller is built up of the backplate; separate blades, spinner and cannon muzzle, and then attached to the aircraft. Decals The large decal sheet provides options for two aircraft. Air A Cutie, of the 36th Fighter Squadron, 8th Fighter Group at Milne Bay, New Guinea 1943 in olive drab over neutral grey with a white tail, or an un-named aircraft of the same squadron and group, in olive drab over neutral grey. The decals are nicely printed, with good opacity, in register and slightly matt. The spinner of the second option is provided as a decal since the complex pattern would take some painting, but the decal will probably take a fair bit of softening solution to fit. The same aircraft also has a large green band around the rear fuselage which could be painted instead if the right shade could be identified. Air A Cuties more noticeable insignia are the ladies either side of the nose, and these are pre-cut to fit the doors, but will take a bit of patience when fitting and the use of softening/setting solution to settle down over the raised panelling. Conclusion Another very nice re-pop from Revell, this kit will build into a very good looking model. I have only heard good things about this kit, in its Special Hobby incarnation and can’t see anything difficult in the build. There is no engine, or gun bay that you may see in other kits of this scale, but this is not really a problem as it simplifies the build and probably improves the fit. There is scope for adding extra detail in the cockpit and undercarriage bays, but that’s about it. Personally I would only add some seat straps and build it out of the box. I can easily recommend this model to anyone interested in an unusual looking aircraft in a nice size. Review sample courtesy of
  9. Harrier AV-8B II - 162074 / VL-07 of VMA-331 "Bumblebees", USMC, c1986 The latest model (build 13) in my Harrier Project is an AV-8B II of VMA-331 "The Bumblebees". It's an attempt to copy the aircraft as shown in some photos in the World Air Power Journal (Vol.6, 1991) and Andy Evans' BAe/McDonnell Douglas Harrier book (Crowood Press). As VMA-331 only flew the original AV-8B II variant before being disbanded, it was also an appropriate choice of VMA as I ultimately want to a Harrier from each VMA. The aircraft depicted, 162074 / VL-07, was later re-manufactured as an AV-8B II Plus, 165311. The original cockpit ended up back in the UK I believe. This is the Revell / Monogram kit and is pretty much built straight out of the box. I created some decals for this particular serial and modex and added some Verlinden Mk.82 Snakeyes and a couple of TERs from (I think as donated) a Hasegawa Weapons Kit. Harrier experts will notice a number of flaws, both in the kit and introduced by me. Assembly is pretty straightforward compared with the Hasegawa kit as it does not need to support the multi-variant build. In some ways I prefer it to the Hasegawa version, in others I don't. As i have two more to build, it's not wise to hate it! She's brush painted of course, using Life Color's acrylics: "Israeli Green" (FS34064) and "Extra Dark Sea Grey" (FS16099) for the upper surface camouflage and "Light Gull Grey" (FS36440) for the undersides. Pylons are painted in white (as per colour scheme set out in Aeroguide 16 for this specific aircraft). I used FS34079 for the Snakeyes. A coat of three of Klear sealed the paints ready for the decals (from the kit and bespoke as mentioned). Weathering from Tamiya and rounded off with a spray of Humbrol matt varnish to finish and seal. I'll close up the canopy once I've added an MDC (a story for another day). Things I'll "fix" for the next one ... re-position the nose formation lights and pitot tubes; extend the main undercarriage strut to make it easier to get it to sit firmly on the ground; re-shape the intakes where they meet the fuselage; heat the canopy to modify its shape for a better fit; get some sway braces for the TERs (I had to drill holes to use 0.15mm nickel wire to attach the bombs), fit the refuelling probe before painting and tone down the decals for the formation lights. Enough waffle, here she is ... Comments welcome as ever. Next up on the bench will be a Hasegawa AV-8B II Plus as flown by the Italian Navy (perhaps SaintsPhil and I can get our models together on the next Harrier SIG display at RAF Cosford - April 2013?).
  10. Junkers Ju-52 in BEA colours Revell 1:48 The Ju 52 was similar to the company's previous Junkers W33, although larger. In 1930, Ernst Zindel and his team designed the Ju 52 at the Junkers works at Dessau. The aircraft's unusual corrugated duralumin metal skin, pioneered by Junkers during World War I, strengthened the whole structure. The Ju 52 had a low cantilever wing, the midsection of which was built into the fuselage, forming its underside. It was formed around four pairs of circular cross section duralumin spars with a corrugated surface that provided torsional stiffening. A narrow control surface, with its outer section functioning as the aileron, and the inner section functioning as a flap, ran along the whole trailing edge of each wing panel, well separated from it. The inner flap section lowered the stalling speed and the arrangement became known as the Doppelfl�or "double wing". The outer sections of this operated differentially as ailerons, projecting slightly beyond the wing tips with control horns. The strutted horizontal stabilizer carried horn-balanced elevators which again projected and showed a significant gap between them and the stabilizer, which was adjustable, in-flight. All stabilizer surfaces were corrugated. The fuselage was of rectangular section with a domed decking, all covered with corrugated light alloy. There was a port side passenger door just aft of the wings, with windows stretching forward to the pilots' cabin. The main undercarriage was fixed and divided; some aircraft had wheel fairings, others not. There was a fixed tail skid, or later tail wheel. Some aircraft were fitted with floats or skis instead of the main wheels. There is probably no other aircraft in civil or military aviation that is more well known than the Junkers Ju 52. During the 1930's she epitomised flight safety and was a synonym for reliability. It was initially designed - at the request of the cargo airlines - as a single-engine aircraft. Airlines such as Lufthansa however preferred a three-engine variant for safety for its passengers. In addition to robustness, it should require only short take-off and landing runs and still deliver low maintenance and low cost operation. The first aircraft with three-engines took-off on its maiden flight on 07 March 1932. In this series, the BMW 132A radial engine with an output of 660hp was used. With these engines the Ju 52 achieved maximum speeds of between 250 and 290 km / h (155 mph and 180 mph). The Ju 52 had a low cantilever wing, the midsection of which was built into the fuselage, forming its underside. It was formed around four pairs of circular cross section duralumin spars with a corrugated surface that provided torsional stiffening. A narrow control surface, with its outer section functioning as the aileron, and the inner section functioning as a flap, ran along the whole trailing edge of each wing panel, well separated from it. The inner flap section lowered the stalling speed and the arrangement became known as the Doppelfl�or "double wing". The outer sections of this operated differentially as ailerons, projecting slightly beyond the wing tips with control horns. The strutted horizontal stabilizer carried horn-balanced elevators which again projected and showed a significant gap between them and the stabilizer, which was adjustable, in-flight. All stabilizer surfaces were corrugated. The fuselage was of rectangular section with a domed decking, all covered with corrugated light alloy. There was a port side passenger door just aft of the wings, with windows stretching forward to the pilots' cabin. The main undercarriage was fixed and divided; some aircraft had wheel fairings, others not. There was a fixed tail skid, or later tail wheel. Some aircraft were fitted with floats or skis instead of the main wheels. The Second World War interrupted the development of civil air traffic. When the War finally ends in 1945, a huge demand for passenger carrying capacity was identified and the search began for suitable aircraft for civil aviation. British European Airways, which on 1 August 1946 began air services from Croydon, Gatwick and Northolt to the Channel Islands, the Isle of Man, Ireland, Scotland and Paris, began to feel the effects of the lack of suitable aircraft. One way out of this predicament was the use of Ju 52's captured by the Royal Air Force in Europe. In this way BEA acquired eleven Ju 52/3m in different versions. The British European Airways Junkers Ju 52/3ms were in constant use until the end of 1948, before they were scrapped at Ringway, near Manchester. The Model Whilst this kit has been released in at least two different guises, civil and military it�s nice to see it in this unusual and yet operationally short lived scheme. This kit has been released in Revells Icons of Aviation series and comes in a top opening box with a great picture of one of the options flying over Paris. As a gift set the kit also comes with a paintbrush, glue and six paints. On opening, the box is pretty much full of plastic. There are eight sprues of silver coloured styrene and two of clear. Strangely, Revell have included two sprues which, the parts of which are not required, along with many number of parts on the other sprues that are used in the military version. The build begins with the very detailed cockpit comprising of the front cabin bulkhead, pilots and co-pilots seats, control yokes and columns, rudder pedals, what looks like a header tank, a lovely instrument panel with separate throttle quadrant panel and internal fore and aft bulkheads with the trim wheels. The instructions are a little unclear with the fitting of these so it will be good to test fit before gluing. Moving right aft, the rear passenger cabin bulkhead has what looks like the attendants seat, plus supports attached along with a grab handle. Behind the bulkhead a slatted door is fitted. This is the entrance door to the washroom, which is fitted out with a wash basin and another grab handle. In the passenger cabin the modeller has the option to build as either a standard layout or smoker cabin layout. The three piece seats are the same for both, but the standard layout uses ten seats, five on each side with a central aisle whilst the smoker layout uses twelve, eight as the standard layout, but with the seats angled slightly inboard, an additional bulkhead separates four seats behind the cockpit bulkhead. Before the fuselage sides are glued together, the clear window parts are fitted and the port and/or starboard doors can be removed to be posed opened the removed parts are replaced with separate doors, but it would be advisable to remove them as carefully and cleanly as possible. Once the interior is finished, clear parts added and the doors removed, the fuselage sides can be joined together. The fuselage roof has the clear �portholes� added along with the luggage racks, and what I presume are luggage netting supports. Since no netting is included the modeller will have to improvise and add it themselves. The lower fuselage needs very little doing to it before adding to the completed fuselage halves, other than to choose whether the cargo doors are to be opened up or not. The roof and bottom fuselage can then be added, thus completing the fuselage. It should be noted here that plenty of dry fitting and very careful gluing should be carried out when fitting the top and bottom of the fuselage to prevent any requirement for filler, as the corrugations make it difficult to sand and file without causing damage that would be difficult to repair. Once the fuselage is complete, the port and starboard horizontal tails surfaces, elevators and support struts can be fitted, as can the three part tail wheel and rudder control horn. Each half of the port and starboard wings can then be glued together then attached to the fuselage. This would make the model really quite large and unwieldy, so it may be advisable to leave the wings off until the majority of painting has been completed. Continuing to go along with the instructions though, the next parts to be built are the undercarriage. Whilst the spatted wheels and struts are included, these are not required for this build and the un-spatted undercarriage should be used. The two part wheels are attached to the main axle strut and mounting plate followed by the rear strut, which look like it makes a strong assembly. Whilst the model is upside down, the cargo bay doors can also be added, as can the landing lamp in the port wing. Now that the basic aircraft is complete it�s onto the engines. Each of the three engines comprises of the cylinder bank, valve control rods, front engine cover, fuel pipework and exhausts, building into very nice representatives of the real things, which will benefit some careful painting and weathering. The completed engines are then fitted with their respective cowlings, long for the wing engines and short for the fuselage engine, and fitted to their positions. Externally, oil coolers, fuselage radiator, and exhaust outlets are then glued into position along with the underside aerial. The final major assembly is the addition of the very long and flexible flaps. Care and patience should be taken when fitting these as the attachment points are not the biggest or strongest seen on a model. Once they are attached then the lower control horns can be added. Turning the model back onto its wheels the final parts such as the aerials, upper flap control rods, side door and ladder, props and cockpit canopy can be added. It may be of note that the canopy is quite a tight fit and if pressed too hard into place it might deform and cause the header tank within the cockpit to break off, so a bit of dry fitting and sanding will be required. Decals The large decal sheet is really well printed, with options for G-AHOH which flew out of Gatwick and G-AHOF which flew out of Croydon. The decals are all in good register, opaque and slightly matt. Due to the size of the registration codes it might be an idea to cut them down a bit to add fitting. Even then though, decal setting solution will be need to get all the decals to settle into the corrugation grooves, again patience and care will be the order of the day. As stated above, this kit comes with a paintbrush, Revell Contacta glue and six pots of acrylic paints. These include two pots of Aluminium 99, Panzergrau 78, Hellgrau 371, Anthracite 09 and Lederbraun 84. Extra paints will be still need to be sourced to paint the model in the required colours. Also, since the model is so large I would have thought it would need a lot more than two pots of Aluminium. But it's a gesture. Conclusion This is a very nice model of a very well known and recognisable aircraft. In this scale it is also a big one, and will require quite a bit of space to display, but it will be well worth it. It is unusual to see one in BEA colours and I have learnt something in researching for this review as I didn�t know they were used by a national airline. There are a few areas that need some care and attention to put together without the use of any or at least very little filler, but I feel it can be done. I'm still not sure about the colour of the styrene and feel a coat of primer would be a good idea. So if you�re interested in German transports aircraft or just the British civil aviation business, this would be an ideal model, which I can happily recommend. Review sample courtesy of
  11. Type IIB D-Boat Revell 1:144 Small and cramped, the Type II were coastal boats intended principally for training, but because of the shortage of available boats, they were later relegated to war duties. With a crew of 25, the boats had limited range and carried enough provisions for three to four weeks, but frequently returned to port after expending their supply of torpedoes. Due to their small size and heavy rolling on the sea, the Type IIs quickly earned the nickname "Dugout Canoes". Although of limited use in the open ocean, some remarkable successes were accomplished early in the war by U-boat aces such as Otto Kretschmer. The Type II also earned the respect and admiration of the crew due to its high maneuverability, rapid diving time and durability. Later in the war, due to the ever increasing need for training new crews, all Type II U-boats were withdrawn from combat duties and assigned to full-time training. The Model The model comes in the standard Revell end opening box with a picture of a Type IIB at sea on the front. Inside there is one large sprue, one small sprue and the two hull halves, all in a medium grey styrene. The moulding on all parts is nicely done, with the vent holes and other detail on the hulls looking really nice, with the exception of the torpedo outer doors being quite indistinct. In fact, it looks like they've not been moulded properly at all. Not having another example to look at, it could just be this particular sample with this problem. Being a submarine, construction is pretty simple as can be seen by the number of sprues. The build starts with the two hull halves being joined together with two bulkheads to give some structural integrity. Onto the completed hull the deck is added along with the rear hatch and the fore and aft bitts plus the anchor on the port side bow. The modeller has the choice of either an early or later tower/sail, depending on which submarine is being modelled. The later style has an ADF aerial support fitted to the front whereas the earlier one is flush fronted with the ADF aerial in the interior of the tower. Between each half of the tower the deck and shelf areas are sandwiched. Onto the deck the two periscopes are fitted and on the outside of the tower handrails, life rings, bullhorn, rear rail, and flagstaff are fitted. The only weapon these boats were fitted with was the 20mm Oerlikon fitted to the deck in front of the tower. Whilst the gun and shoulder harness are the same, there is a choice of either a conical or barrel shaped mounting. At the bow the cable cutter and diveplanes are then fitted along with the centre torpedo outer door. Moving aft, the combined propshafts prop guards and diveplanes are attached to the rear hull along with the propellers, rudder support and rudder are fitted. The final parts of the build is to add the tower to the deck along with the guard rails, deck gun and the fore and aft flagstaffs. The kit also provides two pedestals onto which the model can be affixed to the base. There is also a coil of black thread included for the rigging, but it may look a bit out of scale and "furry". Decals The single sheet of decals provides items for either U-9 from 1939, U-20 from 1940 or U-23 from 1939. The decals are nicely produced win good register and slightly matt. Conclusion This is a very nice model of an early U-Boat from a time when Germany was rebuilding her forces and devising new tactics. Even in 1:144 this builds into quite a small model at just under 300mm long, so wouldn’t take up too much display space. Recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
  12. Hi guys this is my first post so be brutally honest with me. Its been a very fun time with this model even though it was a bit of a warm up before my really expensive models. I have had a bit of trouble with supplies out here in NZ but im pleased with the result. I have been modelling for a couple of years but everything I know I've taught myself but I want to know a lot more so please feel free to suggest methods and tricks to me. Hope you like it! http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s535/brody997/image-3_zpsfa210f86.jpeg And a special thanks to Julien for getting me on my feet )
  13. First of the New Year and first of this series. The series is advertised as 'Pocket-Money' priced, which indeed the kits are @ £1.99, but may not be the best possible introduction to the hobby if they are intended to be that. Built this one OOB but it needed quite a bit of work to fit the lower wing part to the fuselage and the port upper wing part was damaged and needed filling at the wing root. A little more decal solution needed on the codes on the fuselage sides. Enjoyable and a worthwhile build at the price. Spit B by jonbru0903, on Flickr Spit A by jonbru0903, on Flickr Spit F by jonbru0903, on Flickr Spit D by jonbru0903, on Flickr Happy New Year to you all.
  14. German V3000S Truck Revell 1:35 From 1940 onwards the German army, by standardizing and simplifying the numerous types of trucks, tried to improve the procurement of spare parts and facilitate repairs. The result was the standard 3 ton truck, which all German manufacturer snow used as a basis for construction. This was also the basis on which the motor manufacturer in Cologne produced the "V3000S" from 1941 onwards. Various bodies and sets of equipment were available. A typical recognition feature was the oval radiator grille and one-piece windscreen. In total about 25,000 examples were built. The "V 3000 S" came to be used on all fronts in the Second World War and was indispensable for supplying the troops with goods of all kinds. The Model This model is a re-pop of the ICM kit supplied in the standard Revell end opening box, on the front of which is a nice representation of the truck in use. Inside, within a large poly bag, are three sprues of light brown styrene and, in a separate poly bag, one clear sprue. On initial inspection the parts are really well moulded, clean, with no sign of flash. There are a number of moulding pips, some of which are on quite fragile looking parts, so care should be taken when removing. The sprue gates attaching items like the cover rails are also quite heavy and I can see these parts breaking if not careful. The build starts with the nicely detailed engine with the block and gearbox halves glued together followed by the addition of the rocker covers, starter motor, alternator, front engine mounts, cooling fan, air filter, cooling pipes, gear stick and other sundry items. The instructions then move on to the chassis rails with the addition of five cross members and rear chassis end piece, to which the towing eye, cover and pin are added. To the top of the main rails the two sub rails are added. These are then further secured to the main rails by six ties and clamps. The front and rear leaf springs are fitted along with the rear axle and transfer box. Turning the rails over the engine can now be fitted plus the exhaust system, which comprises of seven parts, and looks particularly fragile so it may be an idea to build in situ rather than as a separate assembly the instructions call for. The two driveshafts can then be added, as can the radiator/front chassis end piece. The steering rack assembly is built up using the four parts provided and, if the modeller chooses can be built up so that the front wheels are posable, although this may make it rather fragile, particularly the rear tie rod. After fitting the various brackets and supports as well as the front bumper and tow hooks, it’s onto the wheels, these come as single piece tyres and outer wheels. There are seven provided, singles for the front, doubles for the rear and a spare which fits on the chassis behind the cab and under the bed. The inner wheels are glued whilst an middle part is not, to enable the wheels to turn when fitted to the axles which most modellers probably wouldn’t be bothered with. The building of the cab begins with filing off the ejection pins marks on the underside of the floor, before fitting the pedals, steering column, steering wheel and handbrake handle. The seat support and cushion is fitted to the floor, whilst the windscreen, instrument panel, with decal instruments, are fitted to the roof/front part of the cab. Onto the rear panel of the cab the seat back and rear screen are attached. The next assembly for the cab is the bonnet, which is made up of left and right hand parts, bonnet and bonnet ornament strake. The completed bonnet can then be posed either opened or closed. The final part of the cab is the engine bay which is built up of the left and right hand sides, radiator grille, and rear bulkhead. These five sub assemblies are then fitted together to make the full front assembly, which is then fitted to the chassis. To finish off the front, the mud guards/foot plates are attached along with the doors, which are made of the external panels, door cards, clear parts, and door handles. Last details are the wing mirrors, lights, wipers; grab handles, spade, triangular roof marker, jerry can and its support bracket. The last assembly is the truck bed. This is built up with the bed itself, five strengthening beams on the underside along with two storage containers and rear number plate. There are four supports for each of the rear mudguards and the mudguards themselves to be fitted before flipping the assembly over and attaching the front sides and rear panels. On the front panel, two brackets are attached, into which the hoops for a canvas cover, which is not supplied. The whole assembly is then attached to the chassis, completing the build. Decals Apart from the instruments mentioned above, the small decal sheet gives the modeller 4 options. A plain grey painted vehicle from the Russian front 1942, a dark earth painted vehicle from Italy 1944, and two camouflaged trucks, one from Yugoslavia 1944 and the other East Prussia 1945. The decals are nicely printed, clear and in good register with a slightly matt finish. Conclusion Not having seen the ICM kit beforehand I really like this kit. Whilst the details straight from the box are rather good, there is plenty of scope to add extra detail, particularly to the engine and the very empty cargo bed. Once built and weathered this truck will make a nice component to a multi-vehicle diorama, or on its own with a bit of imagination and some figures, one or two of which would have been nice to have been included in the kit. There doesn’t appear to be anything that would trouble anyone other than complete beginners, so I can quite happily recommend this nice and quite interesting truck.
  15. English Electric Canberra PR.9 1:72 Revell To put into perspective what the Canberra was, let's first look at the fact it was only retired 6 years ago in 2006 from RAF service. Yet it started out in life as a replacement for the De havilland Mosquito as an unarmed bomber and first flew in 1949. Not many aircraft have provided half a century of military service. In RAF service, it served 35 squadrons and around the world served 15 countries. It was a success right from the drawing board and went into service initially in B.2 form replacing the Mosquito, Lincoln and Washington and shortly after, the PR.3 in the reconnaissance role. The B.6 with more powerful engines and greater fuel capacity replaced the B.2 at UK bases freeing the B.2's to form overseas squadrons. From 1955, the Canberra was replaced in the high level bombing role by the Valiant, so its future lay in low level attack. This led to the B(I)8 with the fighter style cockpit as oppose the dome shaped canopy with numerous revisions to suit the low down role including nuclear strike capability and external hardpoints. By 1972, all bomber versions of the Canberra were retired from RAF service, but it continued to serve in the reconnaissance role in PR.7 & PR.9 form and it was the PR.9 that stayed in service until 2006. In its time, it broke the world altitude record three times, achieving over 70,000ft and won the 'Last Great Air Race' flying from London to Christchurch in 23hrs 51 min, a record that still stands today. Whilst there are many examples of British aircraft failing in their bid for international success, the Canberra really was one of our greatest aviation achievements in that respect, not only being exported to many countries, but being licence built in the USA and Australia. The kit Don't get too excited here, this is the old Matchbox kit revisited, so the kit you are about to look at has a history comparable to the real thing ! The three colour scheme has been replaced by Revell's normal light grey coloured sprues of which there's three and a clear one. First impressions are more of nostalgia than anything else, quite a change from the Eduard 1/72 Bf110 I've just reviewed. That said, it looks like a Canberra and is an ideal kit for beginners and young modellers due to its simplicity. The instructions are black and white A4 pages with good clear diagrams and decaling / painting instructions at the rear. Assembly starts with the cockpit area. The moulding of the pilots is actually quite detailed, but the seats are very basic as is the rest of the cockpit. As not much will be seen inside, this isn't a major concern. In not too much time at all, you will be closing the fuselage up and attaching the wings. I suspect there will be some filler use around these major sections. The bomb bay can be built either open or closed, however being a reconnaissance bird, it doesn't house weapons so there isn't any. There is some flash around the sprues, which you would expect as these moulds have been around since 1978. If you do want to get one of these, you may want to add some extra detail, perhaps give it a rescribe to add some interest to those vast open surfaces of plastic. The engine intakes and exhausts fit onto each end of the nacelles moulded into the wing sections. You can have the wheels up or down, so this could make a nice 'in flight' display piece. If you choose to have the wheels down, there is no wheel well detail, so you may want to do something about that. The undercarriage is fairly basic in detail, I would describe it as adequate. The canopy is one piece, so unless you get a vac replacement, you won't be able to have it open. That said, with such a basic interior, you won't want to unless you give it a make over. Whilst the canopy looks a little thick, I should imagine that after a dip in Kleer it won't look too bad if you decide to use it. Also on the sprue are the wing navigation lights and forward windows. The decals The decal sheet does look rather nice. There is some very fine stencils, in fact there's an incredible amount of stencils ! The instructions are well written and show clearly where each stencil goes as each is numbered for ease. The register on the decals is spot on and the printing is very crisp. Two options are provided: XH136 No.39 Sqn, No.1 Photo Reconnaissance Unit RAF based at Karup AB, Denmark during 'Best Focus' in 1982 wearing the camouflage green/grey over light grey scheme XH135 No.13 Sqn, No.1 Photo Reconnaissance Unit RAF based at RAF Wyton 1991 wearing the hemp over light grey scheme Conclusion This is an old kit that's been resurrected. Airfix released a new PR.9 quite recently with much more detail, so the competition is strong, however Revell must have their reasons to release this. Detail is very basic, being of typical Matchbox output of the 1970's. That said, it has a lovely decal sheet and would be a great kit to help to build your way out of modellers block and is well priced. It's also a great kit to get kids into modelling, in fact my 7 son is quite excited about being asked if he wants to build it. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
  16. Morning, spurred into action by my super-rapid catapult build (about the time it takes to chip a droptank Dan ) http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=234929886 I've now started my Arado. For about the two bob it costs, what a great kit! So much so I have elected not to use the Eduard PE as the kit is mostly better. If Eduard can print the bible on the head of a pin why can't they do plain matt grey? They seem to think Luftwaffe IPs are stripy gloss grey for some reason. Go figure. Absolutely love this motor, the only AM is the lifting ring and mesh intake filters. It's a gem. Just hollowed out the exhausts and carefully painted. Haven't weathered it yet. Did I mention that I like this kit? Thanks for looking Nick
  17. Hi This a WIF of a RSAF Silent Eagle built for the chap I repaired the PC9 for. With all those external bombs it's not very silent! Jim
  18. Well it took ar longer then expected, but I did keep my promise that she would not end in the shelf of shame. She is a Revell 1/48 Viper that I started this one for the F-16 GB here: http://www.britmodel...topic=234917085 And after taking my time to do this Viper justice I dare present to you the result: I made extensive use of K4's decal fixer and the canopy is tinted with he's prototipe for clear paints.
  19. This is my first attempt at the Revell 1/32 Hawk. I think the biggest mistake I made was putting too much paint on and losing most of the panel lines under the primer. I wanted to make sure the red plastic did not bleed through though. Mostly oob but I did use a pre-painted etch set for the seats. The masking is also a bit questionable on the white fuselage stripe? Pitot is now a metal item as the fit one shown in these pics broke off. Decals are Xtradecal and paint is Xtracolour and Halfords, figure is from Mastercasters. I have another Hawk in the stash (close to the top as it is an enjoyable build) This will be done in the 2009 RAF benevolent fund scheme. I hope the future builds of this kit will be better as it was a steep learning curve with this one. Looking forward to the April release of Revell's Hawk as I believe it will be in grey plastic. Thanks for looking. I am always open to comment and critique. All the best, Steve.
  20. Wonderland Models are currently offering the new Revell 1/32 Heinkel He 219A-7 UHU at a special discount price of £35.99, that's £14 off the recommended retail price. Stocks are limited, and once they sell out the kits will no longer be available at this extra dicsounted price. http://www.wonderlandmodels.com/products/revell-132-heinkel-he-219a-7-uhu/
  21. Good evening everybody! Just started my second 737, and decided that this one should be a baby one. I bought decals of, of ln-decals.com a month or so ago, and decided to do the -600, or SE-DNX Here is my progress so far Robin
  22. Hello britmodellers! Here is my lately finished F-117 from Revell. Very easy to build, and I'm satisfied with the results! Feel free to comment below. NOTE: I am 16 Robin
  23. Hi Everyone This is my Revell 1/144 Concorde. It was a pig to build in the fact i broke the wings off once and nose off twice when it tried to fly..... The landing gear where a nightmare as well. Overall i thought it was a rather poor kit, but it does look nice...... The kit is hand painted, theres a few more details to fo, then im done. I have windows on the way from Richw. Thanks Bradley
  24. Revell 1:144 Tornado GR1 27sqn 1990. Kit decals, brush painted acrylics, Retrokit ejector seats & LRMTS, Monokio boarding ladder, Dragon carrier crew, homemade RBF tags, scratch built sidewinder covers intake covers & wing bags plus few other mods have a look at the WIP for info. Lovely kit, great detail. Really pleased how its turned out.
  25. So this is my next project: I really enjoyed building the revell 1:144 tomcat as part of the group build even though it was the (very) old mould, so I thought I try one of their newer kits. First impressions are excellent, there's no flash that I can find and the moulding is amazingly crisp. I think this will be pretty much OOB, although I'm not sure whether to have this in flight possibly releasing one of the LGB's or on the ground, refuelling probe out, with the canopy open.
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