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Found 1,768 results

  1. My first sci-fi post here on Britmodeller.... Nearing completion on the Revell reboxing of the Moebious Galactica http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc69/35th-scale/BigG11_zps9a10123d.jpg It is a nice build and comes out quite well with no real issues. Bit of a problem getting the head to fit right that required some surgery on the tabs to connect head to body. And I had to remove the 3 connector pins down the length of the flight pods to make them see-through end-to-end. The full build log, if interested, can be found here: http://forum.ipmsireland.com/topic/9936198/1/ EDIT: Not sure why the links can'd be embedded
  2. Dear fellow modellers, this is Revell's 1/72 Messerschmitt Bf-109 G-10 with upgrades from Quickboost (Propeller, Air Intake), Eduard (Photo Etch), Rob Taurus (Vacu Canopy) and Eagle Cals (Decals). There are some colour pictures of this particular machine, which crash-landed behind American lines in 1945. The camoflage looks like RLM74/RLM75, but with reduced 'red' factor (as seen in Kagero's "Bf-109 G/K Vol.1") it could as well be RLM75/RLM83, which I chose. According to Eagle Cals, this aircraft belonged to I./JG52. The model was painted with Gunze/Mr.Hobby colours with my Evolution airbrush. I decided to build this kit before AZ Model's new 109-series is expanded to the G-10. Otherwise, it would have probably been sleeping in my stash forever (a shame with all the aftermarket sets obtained already). Thanks for your interest. With kind regards from Vienna, Roman
  3. Hello, my attempt on small-scale armor: 1/72 Revell's Panzer III Ausf.M with side skirts and small details from Eduard Photo Etch. This is a vehicle of 6.Panzerdivision, in action at Kursk, 1943. Painted with colours from the Gunze/Mr.Hobby range. Decals from the box. Thanks for looking! Roman
  4. Sopwith Camel and SPAD XIII Revel 1/28 The Models Both of these kits date back to the late fifties, the SPAD from 1957 and the Camel from 1959, and boy does it show on opening the flaps of the end opening boxes. The open sprues give the game away straight away and the rather crude moulding. That said though, the details are quite well done although the wing ribs are a little prominent on both kits and could do with sanding down a bit. There is quite a lot of flash present, but not as much as the age of the moulds might suggest, they have obviously been stored well. SPAD There aren’t too many parts and both follow a similar order of build. The engines are quite nicely detailed with the cooling fins looking really rather good. Add to that the push rods etc and they will make nice representations. The scale of these kits will make them a nice size to work with and with a fair amount of patience, care and probably some filler they will look good in a display case. They also give the modeller a chance to scratch build a lot of detail should they wish to really go to town on them. The figures provided are very basic and could do with some resculpting, but they will add a bit of interest to the final display. The kits come with either black or white thread, or in the case of the Camel, both, for the rigging, which even in this scale looks a little too large, and quite fluffy, so you may wish to replace them with suitable modelling rigging line or fishing line. Camel Decals Each kit comes with a nicely printed decal sheet, being in register, nicely opaque and with very little carrier film. The roundels on the Camel sheet have some sort of texturing on them, making them look a little rough. Both sheets have been printed in the Czech Republic and are quite matt so will probably need a good setting and soaking solution to get them to bed down properly. The kits come with the option of two colour schemes:- Sopwith Camel of No.10 squadron, RNAS, based at Teteghem, France, March 1918 Sopwith Camel of No.45 squadron, RFC, based at Istrana, Italy, early 1918 SPAD XIII Ser.No. S.7714, flown by Capt R. Soubrian, of the 103rd Aero Squadron, 3rd Pursuit Group, USAS, based at Lisle-en-Barrois, France November 1918 SPAD XIII, Ser.No.7799, flown by 1/Lt Long, 93rd Aero Squadron, 3rd Pursuit Group, USAS, France, October 1918. Conclusion If you take into account the age of these kits before you buy them you won’t be shocked at what you find in the box. I’m sure they can and will provide many hours of enjoyment for those that have to have a larger scale model of these aircraft in their collection. They are not as basic as some models from that era, and they do have potential for more detail to be added, so if you fancy a challenge, or trip back down memory lane then they could be just for you. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  5. Build 7 Although I've already got a list of kits to build for this group I keep buying more models to build for it! This one is going to be hacked to bits and converted into a custom racer, with a longer cowling, tiny bubble canopy, clipped wings etc. I'm building it "in flight" because racers just look better that way Price: £1.99 from Antics Wow! I've not seen that much flash since this came out... Although I'm not using it, I thought I'd put a photo of the canopy up to show the kind of quality you get. You'd never guess that "thing" was for Corsair
  6. Type XXVIIB “Seehund” Revell 1/72 At just 41ft in length, Seehund submarines were only slightly longer than the payload they carried. Nevertheless, these tiny, two-man terrors were much more effective against Allied shipping than their diminutive size might suggest. Their success was predicated on the fact that they were virtually impossible to detect when submerged. The type's only failing was that it was unseaworthy; storms caused most of the 35 Seehund losses during the war. The model Packaged in a smallish end opening box this kit is a re-pop of the ICM kit originally released in 2010. The single sprue of grey styrene is well moulded with some well defined details around the hull, some of which could do with opening up and having their depth increased to give a better representation of the flooding holes etc, but otherwise nicely done. There is no sign of flash or other imperfections making the kit a good choice for a weekend build particularly when the weather is inclement. The only glaring omission, as it was in the original boxing, is the lack of clear dome on the diminutive tower. But with the access shaft drilled out the modeller could use a 1:72 astrodome from the spares box. The build is pretty simple and begins with the assembly of the twin rudders and the support frame. This is then sandwiched between eh two halves of the hull, which is then fitted with a ballast tank on either side along with the rear diveplanes and their associated skegs. The tower is assembled from two rear halves, the top decking and spray deflector. The top decking is then fitted out with the access trunk, solid dome, two periscopes and snorkel. The two bilge keels are then attached to either side of the hull, followed by the four torpedo cradles, (two per side), and release mechanism. The torpedoes themselves are constructed from two halves split longitudinally and the two propellers, (contra-rotating), are attached to the rear. The torpedo assemblies are then attached to their respective cradles along with the submarines own propeller. Decals The small decal sheet provides depth markings plus the identification numbers for two craft. U-5022 based in Kiel, 1945, in a dark grey overall scheme U-5316 based as used in the North Sea,1945, in a light/medium grey overall scheme. Conclusion This is a very nice little kit which really could have done with the clear dome being included before manufacturing as it was a well known fault with the original ICM release. Simple to build, slightly more complex to weather, but should give a few hours of fun. It will look good next to one of Revells big 1:72 submarines, or perhaps even being carried by one. Recommended with the above caveats. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  7. Messerschmitt Me-109 G-6 Revell 1:32 The G series, or "Gustav", was introduced in mid-1942. Its initial variants (G-1 through G-4) differed only in minor details from the Bf 109F, most notably in the more powerful 1,455 HP DB 605 engine. Odd numbered variants were built as high-altitude fighters with a pressurized cockpit and GM-1 boost, while even numbered variants were non-pressurized, air superiority fighters and fighter-bombers. Long-range photo-reconnaissance variants also existed. The later G series (G-5 through G-14) was produced in a multitude of variants, with uprated armament and provision for a number of kits of pre-packaged, generally factory- installed parts known as Umrüst-Bausätze (usually contracted to Umbau) and adding a "/U" suffix to the aircraft designation when installed. Field kits known as Rüstsätze were also available for the G-series but those did not change the aircraft designation.) By early 1944 tactical requirements resulted in the addition of MW-50 water injection boost and high-performance superchargers, boosting engine output to 1,800–2,000 PS (1,775-1,973 HP). From early 1944 a number of G-2s, G-3s, G-4s and G-6s were converted to two seat trainers, known as the G-12. An instructor's cockpit was added behind the original cockpit and both were covered by an elongated, glazed canopy. The so-called Rüstsätze field modification kits and Umrüst-Bausätze factory conversion kits were part of a system promulgated by the RLM as a whole, throughout the German military aviation industry, with each airframe type number having its own set of "/R" and/or "/U" numbered designations for such upgrade packages. The Model Revell last released a new tool Me-109G-6 back in 1987 which was an ok kit for its day. Now they have released a brand new tooling of this great aircraft and boy does it look good. The kit unfortunately comes in the standard end opening and slightly feeble box with the parts protected in a couple of poly bags. The kit comes on three large and eleven small sprues of light grey styrene as well as two sprues of clear parts. All the parts appear very well moulded with only a very small amount of flash on a couple of the smaller sprues but quite a few moulding pips throughout. Detail is very nicely done with fine recessed panel lines, raised areas where necessary, finely executed rivets and fasteners and restrained detailing on the fabric covered control surfaces. The styrene is quite soft so be careful when removing parts and cleaning them up. Any ejection pin marks are thoughtfully placed in concealed areas. There are small sink marks in each of the propeller blades near the roots, nothing a small amount of putty and a quick swipe with a sanding stick can’t sort out. Construction starts with the cockpit floor, onto which the rudder pedals and foot rests are fitted. Then there is a choice to make on which cannon the aircraft is fitted with, and therefore which breech cover to build. The instructions state that the Early version was armed with the Mk108 30mm cannon and the Late version was armed with the MG-151/20 20mm cannon. Now from research it looks like it should be the other way round so it may be an idea to just check before building your particular aircraft you are modelling. With the choice made, the two halves of the respective breech cover are joined and fitted to the front of the cockpit floor, onto which the joystick is also attached. The cockpit is further built up with the attachment of the pilot’s seat to the rear bulkhead. The pilots harness is pre-moulded onto the seat pan and the bulkhead, with the bulkhead ones being slightly too short and will need to be lengthened or replaced completely with aftermarket items. Rather than having parts moulded onto the insides of the fuselage halves Revell have gone for separate panels for the cockpit sides onto which further parts are added. On the starboard side the clear part that represents the fuel feed pipe is to be masked off before painting so that the inspection tube is left clear, beneath the fuel pipe the fuel pump is fitted. On the port side there are a pair of trim wheels and control runs attached. The instruments dials for the panel are in decal form but with some softener/setting solutions they should settle down ok onto the individual bezels. There is another Early/Late option when it comes to fitting the gun sight which is fitted to the top right of centre on the instrument panel. The cockpits side panels and instrument panel are then attached together with the cockpit floor and rear bulkhead creating a neat looking tub. Underneath the tub the wing spar is attached, whilst on top the rear upper bulkhead is fitted, with a choice of early or late depending on the position of the battery box. With the cockpit complete several other assemblies need to be built up before the fuselage can be closed up. The tail wheel has optional long and short struts as well as different fairings, depending on which version is being built. This also goes for the upper nose cowling with alternative parts, both of which need to have the machine gun muzzles fitted from the inside before attaching to the fuselage. The engine exhaust stacks also need to be fitted from the inside pre painted and masked of before full painting commences. The exhausts are a little bit disappointing in that they are solid and will need some very careful opening up due to their shape. There’s bound to be some aftermarket items released soon to replace these. Once the cockpit tub, propeller shaft, tailwheel and under nose radiator mount are fitted the fuselage can be closed up. The three nose panels are then fitted with an alternative panel for the starboard side. The two piece carburettor intake on the port side is then fitted along with the cowl bulges, again with alternative parts for each version. Under the nose the two radiator grilles are fitted onto their mounting points before the radiator cover is fitted. The wing radiator grilles are attached to the upper inner wing panels which are then attached to the wing spar. Each main undercarriage bay is has the roof part moulded into the inner panels whilst the bay walls are made up of three separate parts. The one piece lower wing panel is then fitted to the upper inner wing panels and spar. While the model is upside down the two wing radiators have the forward intake lips added and two panels are fitted to the centre fuselage. With the model the right side up the upper outer wing panels are attached and the vertical tail unit is fitted, the modeller has the option of short or tall tails depending on which version is being modelled along with the relevant rudders. The rudder trim actuator is then attached to the starboard side of the fin and the horizontal tail assemblies are, with option moving elevators are fitted. The model comes with the option of having the flaps posed up or down with each section being made up of upper and lower halves as do the ailerons. The inner and outer flaps of each wing are attached as per the modellers wishes after which the ailerons can be fitted. The leading edge slats can also be posed open or closed, but being spring loaded they would normally be deployed on the ground. The main undercarriage legs are each made up of an inner and outer oleo parts onto which the axle unit is attached along with the scissor links and a small link near the top of the inner oleo. The main door is then attached to the oleo. There are two types of main wheels and tyres, again depending on which version is being built. Each tyre is in two halves into which the inner and outer hubs are fitted. The details are quite nice, one with radial tread and one with a block tread, but these may get a little lost with having to sand the seam around the tyre unless fitted well. With the wheels assembled they can be fitted to the axles. The two part tail wheel is then fitted to its yoke. Next in the build sequence is the assembly of the drop tank. Whilst he details on the tank are quite good it does seem a little pointy in the nose area and should be blunter. This may be rectified with a little surgery or sanding but most people will be able to live with it. The completed drop tank is then fitted to the adaptor plate and the four stays are fitted. The whole assembly is then fitted to the fuselage centreline. Depending on the version being built there are a number of different parts to be fitted before the canopy can be fitted. There are two types of canopy, an early framed type with separate rear section and a single piece Erla Haube clear view canopy. The windscreen comes with separate armoured screen which would be best “glued” with a drop of Klear or similar. With the aerial masts fitted to the rear of the canopies the relevant armoured plate can be fitted internally along with the locking handle. If the canopies are to be positioned open there are two blocks on the starboard cockpit side panel to provide a good strong joint. The propeller is now assembled out of the backplate, three individual blades, internal blade clamp and the boss. Unfortunately the join between the backplate and boss isn’t at a natural panel line on the real aircraft so will need to be carefully filled and sanded. The propeller assembly is then fitted onto the propeller shaft. With the addition of the pitot probe and underwing aerial for the late version, all that needs to be done is paint and adding a stretched sprue aerial wire for the model to be complete. Decals The decal sheet is printed in Italy for Revell, so presumably by Cartograph, although they don’t look up to the usual standard. They are well printed though, in good register and nicely opaque with very little carrier film except in the white outline crosses and the kill markings. The decals are quite matt in appearance but should settle down well with the appropriate solutions. There is only one option for each version and these depict the following:- • Bf-109G-6 W.Nr. 160717, Stab II/JG-51, Rumania 1944 flown by Hauptman Karl Rammelt • Bf-109G-6 W.Nr. 411960, Stab III/JG-5, Gossen May 1945, flown by Hauptman Franz Dorr. Conclusion This is a very nice kit and while there a few little inaccuracies I’m sure it will be a very enjoyable build and from what I’ve heard the part fitment is very good. Apparently this kit can be easily modified into a G-14 variant, but you have to resarch this yourself. Revell these days seem to excel in producing great large scale kits at a very affordable price, and this one is no different. It doesn’t matter that it doesn’t come with all the bells and whistles as it isn’t made for the experienced modeller, even though I’m sure they’d love this as a nice quickish build. This mark is in my opinion the best looking of the Me-109 series and a model of which I can highly recommend. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
  8. Build 8 I've been waiting for a chance to build this for ages, I know that sounds daft seeing how it's already built but I only did that to save space (no big big box to store). I plan to do what I always do with these "Easy Kits" and give it a fictional repaint. In this case it's going to become a Sandspeeder and get a desert camouflage paint job. Price: £5.00 from eBay And now it's in pieces again...
  9. Hi Everyone, Here is my build for the F-14 Tomcat II Group Build. I have selected a Revell 1/144 kit of an F-14A Tomcat in the Vandy One black scheme. Here is a photo of the actual jet, I have not taken any pictures of the sprues yet as the kit is drying after a wash in the sink with washing up liquid to prepare the kit for painting. Actual jet : I will update this post with a photo of the sprues a bit later on. Rick
  10. Hi all, I have been working hard on our house since the move but I have found the time to squeeze in a few small projects here and there. A failed attempt at a train (lost bits during the move), a couple of Battlestar Viper models that I enjoyed and then this…the RMS Titanic 1/700 from Revell. Overall I really enjoyed the build, not too many issues to sort. A bit fiddly in places and the transfers went all silver on me (against the black) – if anyone has any ideas on this please let me know! For your enjoyment. Thanks for looking. Leigh.
  11. Hi Everyone, Here is my ready for inspection thread for the Revell 1:24 scale Vodafone McLaren Mercedes MP4-25 in Jensen Button's colours that I have been working on. I suppose this really should be a ready for inspection sort of thread.... I still have 3 decals to apply to the car when the replacements arrive from Revell for the ones which split during the application phase. Anyway onto the photos (I will take final photos when the 3 missing decals have been applied, will be somewhere between 4 and 6 weeks). Considering this is the first model of something which doesn't float or fly at the speed of sound, I am quite impressed with the way this came out. I will be looking to buy the new Revell 1:24 Red Bull Racing RB8 Formula 1 car in Mark Webber's colours when it becomes available in November (probably be one of my christmas presents). Thanks for looking everyone. Comments welcomed. Cheers, Rick
  12. Ki-61 Hien "Tony" 1:72 Revell The Kawasaki Ki-61 Hein or "Tony" was used by the Imperial Japanese Army air Force in WWII. This was the only mass produced Japanese fighter to use an inline liquid cooled engine. Production aircraft would use a Kawasaki licensed DB 601 engine. The Ki-61 was a more lightly armed fighter for general duties rather than its more heavily armed cousin the Ki-60. The ki-61 looked so different from normal Japanese designs that American pilots first reported combat against Japanese Bf 109's and Italian designed fighters. One of the main problems was that the DB 601 engine required a degree of manufacturing sophistication not normally seen with other Japanese engines and reliability suffered from this. Initial encounters with Allied aircraft caught pilots off guard though as they were not able to dive escape like they had with the lighter Japanese fighters. In addition unlike other Japanese fighters the Ki-61 had self sealing fuel tanks and was not a "flammable" as the other fighters. However increasing Allied numbers coupled with larger attacks on the Japanese forces negated many of the advantages. Due to desperation in the latter part of the war Ki-61's were stripped of armament and used in ramming attacks on American B-29's. Only three know airframes are now know to exist. The Kit The kit is a re-release by Revell from the original Revell USA moulds as evidenced by "Revell Inc Venice CAL" moulded onto the underside of the topleft wing.. The original was released way back in 1963 so is older than the reviewer! On the whole the moulding of the kit is actually quite good considering the time frame. Surface detail consists of fine raised panel line and rivets, with some recessed detail on the wings tail. There are a couple of sink marks on the lower wing where the pins are to slot into the holes on the top wing. Also a couple on the upper wing where the landing gear attachment points are. The modeller will not be able to do much with these which will not remove the surface detail. There is a little flash on some of the parts but its not too bad. Construction starts by placing the pilot on his seat like part. This,the tail wheel and propeller boss are added to the fuselage and it is sealed up. Next the Exhausts, intake and tail planes are added. The wings are a conventional single part lower and double upper. These are constructed and added to the fuselage. The radiator is then added to the underside. The wing assembly is added then to the fuselage. Landing gear is added along with the gear doors for the main and tail wheels. In all a simple build. Decals The decals look good for this, they are matt and have very little carrier film. They say "Made In Italy" so can we assume Cartograf? One decal option is provided with the kit. cn 3295 Commander T Kobayashi, 244th Sentai, Japan 1945. Conclusion The kit is from a bygone era, when toolings were simple, the detail sparse, and the target market were boys with their pocket money that would build, paint and play with the kit the same day. Its re-release into a market that has moved on appreciably in the last 50 years could be better understood if it were the only moulding of the Ki-61 in this scale, but as it isn't, reboxing it with new decals does little to endear it to the discerning modeller, if they aren't approaching the purchase with their eyes opened as to its failings. Neither is it a suitable kit for a novice, so It would seem that it is most likely to find favour as a trip down memory lane to relive the glory days of your youth. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
  13. Hello, I started new project - it´s my first 1/32 scale kit. I plan to one of these camouflages:
  14. Hello everyone, this is my first WIP here on Britmodeller, and a first serious build in years, so let's see how this goes.. :] I recently got myself an airbrush and had been trying it out on a discarded 1/32 Revell SBD-3 Dauntless just to be sure I have some idea about what I'm doing.. Also, I have little to none experience in washes and some other things, so this build will have a lots of first! Here goes.. Cockpit is assembled and painted a first coat.. After that the seat was added and small details painted.. I was interested to see how seatbelts will work so I made them out of masking tape..a little bit of detail is still needed, but that's good enough for now.. As I said, I have almost no experience with washes, so I wasn't sure how this will turn out..I started with the interior which will not be as visible as the cockpit.. I used black acrylic paint thinned with water and a soft brush to apply it.. Picture without wash is first, and the one with wash is second.. After that little struggle and a moment of 'Oh no what did I do' I used the new experience to carefully apply washes to cockpit.. I'm quite happy with how it turned out, probably because I was much more careful this time.. All in all, I think I'll use airbrush with slightly darker color next time for most of my interior shading.. You can also notice I didn't pay much attention to bomb bay when it comes to painting bombs and washes 'cause it almost won't be visible at all.. Oh, and the seatbelts still need a bit of work, though.. That's all for now, I'll post more as I progress, your thoughts and advices are welcome! :]
  15. SCALPEL Revell When asked to do this review of basically a modelling knife, my initial thoughts were great! what am I going to say about "another" modelling knife. These were dispelled when I opened the package from BM HQ. Revell call this a "scalpel" but in fact its more a standard modelling knife than a scalpel. I like many modellers have both. The knife is of the conventional type where the blade is trapped in a ferrule at the top which is tightened up by screwing the knife closed. The blades are the standard xacto type blades. Five additional blades are provided with the knife. When picking the knife up you can feel it is coated in a rubber type coating which gives a good feel and grip to the knife. It tapers in to where you grip it between your fingers and is very ergonomic. As well as the rubber area at the grip point there are raised plastic areas if you would prefer to grip those. Toward the back of the knife there is a raised area which will prevent the knife from rolling of the modeller's workbench, and causing an injury as it drops to the floor. I suspect many modellers have lost a knife in this way. Lastly the knife comes with a clear plastic cap. This is useful as you don't have to worry about finding a cork or such like to stop injury and to keep the blade sharp. I suspect this might also be helpful if anyone is working with younger modellers. Conclusion If you are looking to buy a new knife then I would recommend looking at this new one from Revell, you will be pleasantly surprised. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  16. Hi folks, I was taking March off from modelling, pending a couple of upcoming GBs, when I decided to throw together a Revell Sea Hurricane, trying to correct a couple of outline errors in the process. The result is shown below as a rocket equipped SHurri IIC from HMS Vindex (I'm following a profile on Wings Palette, so don't know how accurate it is) but as a quick build, it met the need. Prop / spinner is from Quickboost, vacform sliding canopy is from Squadron (I think) and the rockets / rails I believe came from a Hi-Tech Smer kit of the IIC although I may be wrong. Anyway, the rest is hacked about Revell plastic. Decals are from the spares box apart from the s/n (which is from the kit and is therefore wrong for this aircraft). regards, Martin
  17. Two Revell 1/144 P-47Ds strapped together... Built this just as a little "fun" project. £4 for the kits + a little plastic card + some filler + a few hours = A monster of a fighter! I swapped the undercarriage legs, bays and doors over, it would have looked a bit daft having them close together inboard of the fuselage or miles apart. I brush painted the whole thing and decals were a mix of kit and spares box.
  18. Hi everyone ! This my latest project .This is the Revell Model in 1/72 scale . It is built straight from the box . Rivets were added to make it look more realistic . For the painting , Alclad II Airframe Aluminium was used as a base colour and then various shades for the panels . Acrylics were used for the green antiglare surface and for the red sections . Decals are from Revell . Highly dilluted black colour was used for the weathering of the model and some artists oils as well
  19. F/A-18C Hornet Swiss Air Force 1:48 Revell The F/A-18 Hornet was developed by McDonnell Douglas and Northrop from Northrop's YF-17 prototype in the 1970's for use by the US Navy and marine Corps as a carrier capable multirole fighter jet. Northrop's YF-17 was initially a design for the US Air Force and McDonnell Douglas were brought in to make it carrier capable following their success with the F-4 Phantom. In the late 1980's Switzerland after evaluation decided the F/A-18 was the aircraft to equip its Air Force. The aircraft was designed for carrier operations so it was felt a good fit for operations from short runways with steep takeoffs. The aircraft were to be built locally at Emmen. Due mainly to cost implications and some noise abatement problems the Swiss Air Force only works office hours. The Kit On opening the box you are greeted by Monograms old F-18 kit. The fuselage including the wings are split top & bottom with 3 additional parts trees. Construction starts with the cockpit. A basic 4 part NACES ejection seat is constructed and added to the cockpit tub along with an instrument panel, control stick and engine controls. A pilot figure is provided if you wish to use him. Once complete the cockpit is installed in the top fuselage half. The fuselage halves can then be joined together making sure the tail plane parts and the engine parts are installed first. The two tail planes are joined and the instructions indicate glue is not to be used in order that they can move. Following this the nose is added and the intake parts on both sides. Next the vertical tails are added along with an arrestor hook, airbrake, and various antennas. The landing gear and gear doors are then added. Due to the design of the landing gear it does contain quite a few parts and these will need to be carefully assembled to get the aircraft to sit right. Finally the pylons can be added. Sidewinders are supplied for the wing tip rails if you want to use them. However the aircraft regularly fly completely clean or with just a centre line fuel tank. The outer pylons should not be used as these are not correct for Swiss aircraft. Decals The decals are the star of this re-release. The design is by Daco Products of Belgium and they are printed in Italy for Revell. The modeller is given two choices of markings from the Swiss Air Force. It should also be noted that the IFF antenna on the nose, and the ID light on the left nose as used by the Swiss Air Force are not included in the model and will have to be sourced by the modeller. 18 Staffel "Panthers". 17 Staffel "Falcons". Conclusion The kit is fairly old now and this shows in the tooling. However the alternatives can be expensive. This kit is a cost effective way to add a Swiss F/A-18 to your collection, with a little work required. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  20. Hello So first post...and my god I feel so happy with this. So I've always loved the V-Force. Cliche I know, but I do love them. I already have a Valiant and Vulcan at home (both Airfix kits). I got a Victor a few years back too, the Matchbox one. I got it complete on eBay for the stellar price of £8 and P&P. Bargin. I haven't realy started it...ok I did but the paintwork is awful and when I get my airbrush/compressor set I'll do some practice models and move onto it. So here's the pretty box...(please don't judge my need-copious-amounts-of-cleaning carpet) So I haven't really explored my local area before...and I said to my partner after work one day I wanted to see a few shops. I know we have a web based store here that lets you purchase from it's warehouse directly but I wanted to see a more traditional one like I'm used to in Swindon - you know the sort, walls of models and too much choice? So as I said I had one Victor already. Well there was one sat there in the second hand section. I grabbed it and checked it was complete - one thing missing off the sprue but rolling around in the box. I couldn't resist - I've seen these sell for £50 on eBay now and it was only £30...so I got it. I had to. So I now have 2 Victors...and maybe 2 Vulcan kits soon too. Somebody help me xD Also, isn't that artwork just glorious?
  21. Here is another of my current obsessions with Tiger Meet aircraft. It is the Revell 1/72 “Black Panther” Tornado from the 2011 Tigermeet. Now why they call it Black Panther is beyond me as the scheme on the plane is clearly that of a tiger. Prior to this I had only built Revell’s 1/144 Tigermeet kits. Those went together quite well. This one was no exception. The fit of the parts, their design, can’t say enough about them. The fit of the decals and the design of them also are top notch. The instructions to put the decals on, not so hot. You really need to go over the decals, the position drawings in the instructions and figure out where to start with them and which decals go down first. If you don’t then bad things will happen. And the build instructions should very precisely say “Hey, quit building this kit right here; paint it and put the decals on! Do not put the pylons on the bottom of the aircraft and do not attach the various nobs and bits that protrude on the airframe.” Unless you are a 5 level decal master of the universe, adept at cutting, splicing and piecing decals, you need a clean upper and lower surface to make this decal scheme work. I had to remove all of the pylons on the underside after I had attached them to make this scheme work. Removing them was a tad harder than gluing them on. Especially since I had done all of the paint work prior to removal. Other than this one gripe, I would recommend this kit in a heartbeat. Here are the results: I took the last picture to show what the scheme looked like wings extended. NATO meets Picasso. So, the only thing left is to build is a stand for this. I am open to ideas as my corny one is a tiger paw base with the jet suspended by acrylic tubes from the jet exhausts. Also, do you think anyone will notice there are no pilots flying the bird? Maybe a really fancy drone?
  22. While I wait for paint to dry on my 2 1/32 projects (Revell Zero and ZM Raiden), in keeping with my new fascination with Tiger Meet aircraft and similarly decorated ones, I found the 1/72 Revell Tornado Black Panther kit lying around my local hobby shop. (Stung by my addiction as I just went in to get a tin of Humbrol paint) Couldn’t resist it, the price was very reasonable and it looked so pretty on the shelf. So, this is my next fun project. I have no clue about the specifics of the Tornado other than the 2 1/144 Revell Tiger Meet models I have done. With that said, be warned, the colors may be a bit off on some things, artistic license will be taken on other items as my main focus will be on the overall paint scheme. So, obligatory box art shot. I start the cockpit build with the seats. And after assembly, a bit of paint, some weathering and imaginative representations of seat belts, this is what I came up with. Now I put the seats on top of a dime for a sense of scale. However, Hendie in another post of mine reminded me I'm using a dime in Britmodeller so he gave this little gem of size for me to follow: "Now if you had said the dime is Ø75mm, or Ø0.075m, or Ø75000µm, or even the width of a large mans pinkie fingernail, then it might have made some degree of sense, and BMer's would have some inkling of the scale and the problems you have faced and stoically overcome... but dime? No!" The instrument panels were next and painted with a base coat of Humbrol Sea Gray I think. They are shown here with the decals for each. Will the decals react kindly to Micro Sol and follow the raised outlines? Here they are after application and their first application of Micro Sol. And this is the result after a few applications of Micro Sol, some blending of decals and paint and a bit of drybrushing. Finally, the installation of the control stick in the rear IP panel completes the set. The rear bulkhead gets its base color. And a bit of detailing and drybrushing. I doubt much of it will be seen, but who knows. The cockpit tub is prepared next and receives its base color with the instrument side panels picked out in glossy black. I then add a bit of artistic color to liven things up a bit, along with some drybrushing and paint detailing with an itty bitty brush and magnifying visor. The front IP panel is put in along with the joystick. And then the rear IP panel, both seats and the rear bulkhead. Work then begins on the radio equipment (I think it is radio equipment, anyway it is electronic stuff that fits in between the front seat and the rear IP panel. It receives a base coat of NATO black and then is drybrushed with metallic silver. Inserted between the front fuselage halves. I still need to do a bit of cleanup on some of the seams and where the radio equipment and rear IP panel meet. But, that is all for right now. Comments always welcome.
  23. Hi, I am taking part in the F-14 Tomcat II Single Type Group Build and Less Than A Tenner Group Build with my newly acquired Revell 1/144 F-14A Black Tomcat kit. I have setup a poll to see which of the 2 schemes the kit includes decals for is the most popular among the members here to help me make my decision. Here are pictures of the 2 schemes : Vandy One: VF-142 Ghostriders : I cannot work out if the Ghostriders scheme looks too busy or if I like the fact that the Vandy One scheme is so different because its black. May the best scheme win the poll :-) Rick
  24. Hello, This one has been on the drawing board since completing the Airfix Version back in January, hopefully I'll not have as many problems with this one as I am currently having with the "Mustang/Tornado/Gannet", so should be moving fairly quickly. I'm going to be doing this in the scheme of AJ-G which was flown by Wing Commander Guy Gibson VC DSO* DFC*, and using Humbrol 29 Dark Earth & Tamiya TS-2/XF=61 for the Dark Green sections, the black underside & engine block will be finished in Plastikote Flat Black. Box and Sprue Shot's: Not had a chance to take any photo's but I've now sprayed the Flat black area's on the aircraft, as the kit was rather Glossy: Thanks for Looking
  25. Thought I'd already started a post. Bit along the way now. I've made the odd error and for the most part enjoyed it. I have decided for the most part that a lot of exterior photoetch isn't for me. I don't have steady enough hands to apply them (little antenna things etc) on the odd occasion I was tempted to drop kick the lot into the River Wear. However I persevered. The plane: currently has no seats thanks to the poor instructions which meant I ended up cutting bits I shouldn't, as they helpfully don't show the seats from the front, just angled pictures of the back and sides! Some stores The two holes you can see are for 2mm x 1mm magnets. Only the ASRAAMS won't have them, allows me to switch things up a bit. The plane has had two coats of pledge on the top, need to get the underside done, decal and weather! While I wait for it to dry I'll finish off my Apache and look at making a proper start on my supacat jackal.
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